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Emergency Driver Fitting After Accident & Before Tournament


cobig13

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So 24 hours ago I owned a '16 M1 9.5* with Aldila Rogue Silver 70 shaft. I had the weight moved forward with the most forward CG possible. My launch was 1 or 2* HIGHER than optimal but my spin was optimal.

 

Last night, a good friend of mine got under a ball with my M1 and dented the tar out of it. It's now unusable and I have a tournament that starts on Thursday and runs through Sunday.

 

I prefer not to spend much on clubs and use them for 3 years on average. I have a few options:

 

1) Purchase an M3 10.5* for $400 and put my Rogue Silver 70 shaft into it with the adapters. I'd have to crank the loft down and then move toward the draw with the slider to optimize launch and then negate the opening of the face. Finally, Id have to slide the CG weight forward to get lower spin. Lots of tinkering but less cost. Would the amount of tinkering affect performance negatively?

 

2) Purchase an M3 8.5% for $540 and put my Rogue Silver 70 shaft into. Slide the CG weight forward and it should be good to go. Much less tinkering.

 

3) Purchase a 9* Rogue Subzero for $400 and stay with the stiff Evenflow shaft. Hope that the launch and spin are optimized.

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Can't help with 3 (your guess is going to be as good as anyones on what will happen for a head you've never tried)

 

but as far as 1 and 2 are concerned, using a different loft setting on the adapter also means changing the face angle. If you know for a fact that you will not be effected by that then it probably wont make much of a difference between those two options. But going from the std face angle to cranking down the loft on a 10.5 will open the face quite a bit (almost 4* to turn the effective loft down to 8.5*) and that has a decent chance of effecting your left/right ball flight control. That means if you get the 10.5 and do find you have issues cranking the loft down, you'll likely have to crank it back up and accept less then optimal distances to get the control back (at least until you can find an alternative fix). Now on the other hand if you suffer from hook side misses, then the more open face might actually help.

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Can't help with 3 (your guess is going to be as good as anyones on what will happen for a head you've never tried)

 

but as far as 1 and 2 are concerned, using a different loft setting on the adapter also means changing the face angle. If you know for a fact that you will not be effected by that then it probably wont make much of a difference between those two options. But going from the std face angle to cranking down the loft on a 10.5 will open the face quite a bit (almost 4* to turn the effective loft down to 8.5*) and that has a decent chance of effecting your left/right ball flight control. That means if you get the 10.5 and do find you have issues cranking the loft down, you'll likely have to crank it back up and accept less then optimal distances to get the control back (at least until you can find an alternative fix). Now on the other hand if you suffer from hook side misses, then the more open face might actually help.

 

Once I adjust down to 8.5*, couldn't I then just move a slider or make another hosel adjustment to get the face back to the standard face angle so that it's not 4* open and is instead square?

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Once I adjust down to 8.5*, couldn't I then just move a slider or make another hosel adjustment to get the face back to the standard face angle so that it's not 4* open and is instead square?

 

Nope. Some people are able to adjust to different face angles with set-up changes (manually open or close the face relative to the target), some people can't, and some are not even effected by the face angle changes and don't need to do anything. But you wont know which category you are in until you play around with the settings and see what actually happens with the ball flight.

 

If you can demo before the purchase then do a simple test. Start with the loft on neutral hit a couple balls, move it to the highest loft setting (+2*), hit a couple balls. then change to the lowest loft setting (-2*) and hit a couple balls - then compare the ball flight from the 3 tests. That at least should tell you how important face angle is to you and your swing.

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2016 M1 drivers are easy to find. Is there a local GolfGalaxy or the like near you? Chances are they have a used one for <$200 you can grab and swap the shaft.

Some flavor of the month driver.
Some driving iron for Links courses.

A hybrid to save my bad shots.
Titleist blades when I feel lucky otherwise something more forgiving.
A Vokey wedge or 2.
I hate every one of my 17 putters.

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Go to a store, see what works best and go from there. My guess is something in the TM family would be best with the shaft you already have that seems to suit you. Not sure why a 9.5* M3 isn't considered.

 

Rogue Subzero is said to be lower launching so I'm not sure dropping loft, albeit a small amount, with a lower launching head would work. Just a guess though.

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Go to a store, see what works best and go from there. My guess is something in the TM family would be best with the shaft you already have that seems to suit you. Not sure why a 9.5* M3 isn't considered.

 

Rogue Subzero is said to be lower launching so I'm not sure dropping loft, albeit a small amount, with a lower launching head would work. Just a guess though.

 

A 9.5* M3 is $540. Only have deals on 1 and 3 lined up for $400.

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option 2

 

and I wouldn't worry about it and play well.

 

let us know if its better than the m1 LOL :)

PXG 0311XF Gen 5 7.5* Ventus Black 6X
Titleist 913D2 12* UST Mamiya Tour Green 75X
PXG Gen5 19* Ventus Black 10TX
Maltby TE Forged 4-G
Maltby TSW DRM 56 and 60
Taylormade Spider Long Broomstick
#vietnameeh

THE GOLF GARAGE SAN JOSE

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1. Get money from friend.

2. Hurt, injure said friend.

 

Seriously don't fret....3 wood is your friend...you might even hit a few more fairways.

Driver - M2/KuroKage xstiff
3 wood - TS2 16.5/KuroKage xstiff
Hybrids - Titleist 918 3/4
Irons - Mizuno 223, Modus 105 Stiff
Wedges - Vokey SM8 - 51, 56, 60
Whitlam/Gauge Design - Coldstar Devon ETBW
Bag - Sun Mountain C-130

Club - WoodenSticks Golf Club

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I will say this from my testing that a "preferred" shaft that works in the '17 M2 & '16 M1 9.5* head did NOT yield the best results when demoing the '18 M3 / M4 9.5 heads for whatever reason.

M3 9.5* / Atmos Black Tour Spec
M4 16.5* / Hzrdus Black
M4 Hybrid 19* / KBS Prototype
P-770 / Project X LZ 6.0
52* / 58* Black Milled Grind Wedge / KBS Custom
59* Original Trusty Rusty / Hump shaft
60* Raw Milled Grind Wedge / KBS Custom
Toulon Garage Columbus Triple Black
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Yeah, what does "got under a ball and dented the tar out if it making it unusable" mean? Post a pic. You mean a pop up scratch to the paint? Let's see this dent.

 

I'm guessing they actually put a dent on the slim titanium piece between the face and composite. Worse would be if they cracked the carbon backing...which I hope didn't happen as that is a mighty vicious lash at it.

Taylormade R510TP - Speeder 757 Sonartec NP-99 14* and 17* - NV Green 85 Nickent Genex 3DX 21* - Dynamic Gold SL Titleist 660 4-P - Dynamic Gold Cleveland 54* and 59* - Dynamic Gold Scotty Cameron Teryllium

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I have a 2016 M1 460 9.5* head if you'd want to acquire it. It's in like new condition.

TaylorMade Stealth 2+ 8* - Tensei White Pro 70TX

Callaway Paradym TD 3 wood (14*) - Kai'Li White 80x (tipped extra 1/2")

Callaway UW 17* - Kai'Li White 90TX

Callaway Mavrik Pro 3 (20*) - Kai'Li White 100TX

Mizuno JPX 900 Tour 5-9 - KBS Tour V 125 S+

Titleist Vokey 46, 50, 55 & 60 - KBS 610

TaylorMade Spider S Platinum Single Bend - KBS CT Tour Matte Black shaft

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