Swing weight factors in relation to parts

[malelee21]

http://www.golf-comp...calculator.html

 

14g weight to Anser driver head (202 + 14g) and use of 25g light weight grip will allow me to maintain D3 weight after cutting shaft to 42" from 45.25".

 

I think numbers are too extreme and hard to believe. Any thought?

[Stuart_G]

I think numbers are too extreme and hard to believe. Any thought?

 

Why do you think you want or need to maintain the same SW at that short of a playing length?

[WidespreadPanic]

If I got to a ~7,8g lighter shaft, how would that effect sw?

[Stuart_G]

If I got to a ~7,8g lighter shaft, how would that effect sw?

 

No way to really tell. It depends on more than just the shaft weight but also how the shaft balance points change between the old and new shaft.

[malelee21]

I think numbers are too extreme and hard to believe. Any thought?

 

Why do you think you want or need to maintain the same SW at that short of a playing length?

 

That's a very good question. I just don't want the head to feel too light. At any rate, I just cut Anser driver shaft (G25 shaft, which is 0.5" longer than Anser shaft) 2" to play at 43.75". I will experiment with several weight screws to find the best setting.

[WidespreadPanic]

If I got to a ~7,8g lighter shaft, how would that effect sw?

 

No way to really tell. It depends on more than just the shaft weight but also how the shaft balance points change between the old and new shaft.

I installed the lighter shaft and it seems heavier. I think I can just feel the head more...if that makes any sense at all.

[Stuart_G]

If I got to a ~7,8g lighter shaft, how would that effect sw?

 

No way to really tell. It depends on more than just the shaft weight but also how the shaft balance points change between the old and new shaft.

I installed the lighter shaft and it seems heavier. I think I can just feel the head more...if that makes any sense at all.

 

The SW could have increased but also have to keep in mind what you feel comes from more than just the SW value.

[malelee21]

I added 14g of screw weight after cutting Anser driver by 1.5". Wow, driver feels really heavy now.

 

I think you have to experiment with various weights instead of going by this 0.5" = 3SW = 6g rule.

 

I have 4g and 7g weights to experiment with next.

[Switter]

I replaced a Cleveland Black 44 gram Bassara shaft with a Matrix Radix 5.0 63 gram shaft, a 19 gram difference between the two. The head now gets lost in the transition... Approximately how many grams of lead tape should I begin applying & experimenting with to the driver head to compensate for the weight differences in the shafts?

[spook29]

Sorry to hack this thread, but I have a related question. And with all the responses, I'm not exactly sure what would happen to swing weight in the following scenario:

 

Switching out a KBS Tour 120g stiff shaft, replacing with Nippon Modus 3 Tour 105g shafts. Irons are Srixon Z745. Will this decrease my swingweight a little? a lot? I prefer a more neutral/lighter swingweight. Thanks in advance for any help!

[Enfynet]

Rule of thumb for those is 5g in shaft is approximately 1g in the head. And approximately 2g in the head is 1 SW point.

[spook29]

Rule of thumb for those is 5g in shaft is approximately 1g in the head. And approximately 2g in the head is 1 SW point.

 

1 SW lower or higher? Thanks!

[Enfynet]

Shaft and head weight increase SW. Grip and counterweight decrease SW.

[Switter]

@ Enfynet... Thanks so much, been scouring the net for that hard to find info. Seems as tho the subject matter isnt talked about to much. Again, thanks!

[dunn]

Cutting steel or graphite is same......a thin cut off wheel, whether it's for Dremel or grinder works same....I use a 4 1/2 in grinder to do all my cutting.....I have a chop saw set up with carbon blade but it's hassle to break out...........thin carbon cutoff wheel cuts graphite like butter

[Titleistxxx]

Is there anyway of determining sw value manually or do you have to have it measured professionally?

[kb24ismvp]

Is there anyway of determining sw value manually or do you have to have it measured professionally?

 

you don't need it measured by a professional, any swing weight machine will work, just make sure to use the same machine for measuring your swing weight, as in don't take it to golftown 1 week and goto golfsmith the next week to get the sw.

 

ideally for Sw because it is so simple, buy your own device they are very cheap and look cool:)

[Howard_Jones]

Is there anyway of determining sw value manually or do you have to have it measured professionally?

 

If your question is, can you do it yourself without a SW scale? the answer is yes.

 

You need a gram scale to measure the clubs total weight, and a ruler (metric millimeter is the best)

Now "balance" the club on one finger, so you find the approximate balance point of the club

Put a piece of painters tape on the shaft where you find the balance point.

Now take a butter knife or similar (a not so sharp knife), and balance the club again on the edge of the knife and fine tune until its in perfect balance.

Push the club down against the knife blade so the knife make a measure mark (in the painters tape, NOT the shaft) at the EXACT balance point.

 

Now measure the distance from the butt end of the grip and down to your balance point mark on the painters tape (millimeter if possible)

Note the distance and the total weight in grams, and go to this web address where you enter those values and the web page returns a SW value like a SW scale would have.

 

http://www.leaderboard.com/swingwt.htm

[SwingMan]

Joe, removing paintfill change the swing weight?

Paint weight in the paintfill is not heavy enough to change the SW.

 

If you need to significantly lower swingweight due to hot melt in the head, and don't want to deal with getting it out, are you better off to add weight with a heavier grip and a backweight like a Tour Lock insert (need to drop 6 SW points (add about 30 gms) from D9 to D3) or just put it all in the insert. Can get maybe 5 more grams in the grip and would be putting a 20 or 30 gm insert. Essentially, where will the weight be least felt statically and most benefit swing wise? Thanks

Jeff

 

Sorry, I don't believe in counter weighting. It's like cheating without solving the problem IMO.

 

So I guess Nicklaus cheated ... I think you ought to rethink that, Joe.

 

Counterweighting can solve a problem. With driver, hybrids, irons, some claim it offers more consistent contact and/or with 5-6 inch adjustable weights, one can stiffen the butt area. With putters, it can keep the hands and putterhead in synch.

 

Static swingweight may be overrated.

[Stuart_G]

Static swingweight may be overrated.

 

Swing weight itself is not overrated, but it is frequently misunderstood and the swing weight scale often misused.

[SwingMan]

Static swingweight may be overrated.

 

Swing weight itself is not overrated, but it is frequently misunderstood and the swing weight scale often misused.

 

One can put a 20g CB weight in the grip, driving down the static swingweight from D2 to C Something, but I've found when you put your hands around the grip and swing the club, one can still swing the club and feel the clubhead and gain more performance. Sometimes total weight is more important. It's a balance as to what works for the individual golfer.

 

Perhaps static SW is good as a starting point for consistency in making the club ...

[Stuart_G]

One can put a 20g CB weight in the grip, driving down the static swingweight from D2 to C Something, but I've found when you put your hands around the grip and swing the club, one can still swing the club and feel the clubhead and gain more performance.

 

Exactly, and that's a perfect example of the SW scale being misused. The scale readings changed but the actual MOI of the club and resistance of the head really didn't. To think that the change in SW value caused by the butt weights is even remotely equivalent (wrt feel) to the changes in SW value that can be caused by changing the head weight (or length) is a very common misconception.

 

Sometimes total weight is more important. It's a balance as to what works for the individual golfer.

 

Perhaps static SW is good as a starting point for consistency in making the club ...

 

Total weight, head weight, and balance can all be important (as well as length). The SW scale just doesn't tell us the whole story for those specs, so by itself, can't be used to translate changes in some of those specs to changes in other specs. It was only designed to manage head weight changes for small length changes and assumes everything else stays the same - same shaft weight and balance point, same grip weight (or amount of counterbalancing). It can be used to accurately duplicate a build but only if those assumptions are true.

[EXMAX]

Manufacturers use SW as a way of selling you a product that is "matched", so it is perceived as being of higher value, but in truth it only ever relates to that one set, and has no relevance to other sets from the same manufacturer or from different manufacturers.

The only way to create an exact comparison would be for all the head weights and lies , shaft weights (including where the weight is in the shaft), grip weights. and overall lengths were all exactly the same from each company.

Its exactly the same as someone wanting 3 tapes under their grips, is that on a 580, 600 or 605 bore ? - how many shaft steps are under the grip ? eg a dyn gold has multiple steps under the right hand - a project x has none. The same 3 tapes would be totally different sizing on both shafts .

[cane700]

Hoping you guys can help me. I ordered a custom set of 716 AP2'S from Titleist a 1/2 inch short. I asked for them to maintain the stock swing weight of D2. I was told that the highest they can swing weight the club is D0. That was disappointing to hear.

 

Is that legit or am I getting smoke blown up my rear end? Are there limits to what they can do to the SW without sticking lead tape on it?

[Stuart_G]

Hoping you guys can help me. I ordered a custom set of 716 AP2'S from Titleist a 1/2 inch short. I asked for them to maintain the stock swing weight of D2. I was told that the highest they can swing weight the club is D0. That was disappointing to hear.

 

Is that legit or am I getting smoke blown up my rear end? Are there limits to what they can do to the SW without sticking lead tape on it?

 

What shaft? and What grip? That can make a difference.

 

Did you request D2 because that's the SW that fits best for you at the full length - or have you tested out that SW for the same length build with another set?

 

But to answer the question, there are limits as to what the factories will do (which is a bit different from 'can do') for swing weight management. Usually it's more limited (for whatever reason, training, logistics, process management, etc..) than what a custom builder or even the tour vans can do (which also have some limits, although fewer).

[cane700]

Hoping you guys can help me. I ordered a custom set of 716 AP2'S from Titleist a 1/2 inch short. I asked for them to maintain the stock swing weight of D2. I was told that the highest they can swing weight the club is D0. That was disappointing to hear.

 

Is that legit or am I getting smoke blown up my rear end? Are there limits to what they can do to the SW without sticking lead tape on it?

 

What shaft? and What grip? That can make a difference.

 

Did you request D2 because that's the SW that fits best for you at the full length - or have you tested out that SW for the same length build with another set?

 

But to answer the question, there are limits as to what the factories will do (which is a bit different from 'can do') for swing weight management. Usually it's more limited (for whatever reason, training, logistics, process management, etc..) than what a custom builder or even the tour vans can do (which also have some limits, although fewer).

 

The shaft is the DG s300 and tour velvet grips with 2 wraps. I hit the demo club with the -1/2in shaft as well as the stock length choked down. I assumed that it was D2. Perhaps it wasn't but it felt fine to me.

[EXMAX]

It shouldn't be an issue for any manufacturer to achieve what you require with these components

[barspin89]

I just picked up a set of Mizuno JPX-850 Forged irons. I put in Dynamic Gold SL X100 shafts and Lamkin Crossline standard grips. Without any tip weights I'm almost 2 SW pts heavier than stock on every club. When putting the same shafts in my 3 wedges I had the the opposite result with the exception of my SM6 60 which came out at my desired D4. My previous set of irons I played at D1 and they felt great but these are all at D3 or higher. I'll be taking them out tomorrow for the 1st time but I can tell without hitting them that they're a bit heavy. I played DG X100 up until 4 years ago when I started to tinker because of a loss of distance. My question is, does shaft flex have an effect on swing weight due to varying shaft thickness between flexes, step patterns and tip lengths?

[Stuart_G]

My question is, does shaft flex have an effect on swing weight due to varying shaft thickness between flexes, step patterns and tip lengths?

 

It's possible but generally no, at least not in a way that you can predict. The designers (if they choose to) can generally tweak the designs to independently manage the shaft weight, bend profile, and balance point (and thus the shafts impact on swing weight). You may find some shaft models where you might see some relationship, but it's not any kind of inherent relationship you'll see across all models.

[Matt J]

Why are manufacturers making driver heads so heavy?

 

I just bought a swingweight scale and am trying to add consistency through the bag by getting my clubs reasonably close to each other and ascending in weight from driver through wedge.

 

Even with relatively light shafts and short lengths it's hard to get my driver down below D3 or D4. I measured the static weight and it's around 200 grams which seems to be about average for driver heads. Seems much more reasonable to put weight ports and the option for a very light (as light as possible) cover for the port and then ascending weight in 5 gram increments. But, realistically if you're going to run a shaft over 60 grams it seems there's no way to get under D5 or D6 without counterweighting.

 

I love the ball flight of my hybrids, but I achieve that through heavy shafts. As a result they have very high swingweight. If I gain a point or two through the bag my irons and wedges would have to be in the E range. Seems ridiculous.