Shaft suggestions for wrist pain.

[MizunoMade]

I have a lot of pain in my left wrist (righty). It hurts the most when I thin or shank and then my wrist can’t take any stress.

I have tried going down in flex to stiff but that doesn’t help anything. C-taper 130x does not hurt as much as all other kbs and nippon modus shafts do.

So now I am on the hunt for new shafts. I am considering dg 120 x100, steelfiber 125. Any other suggestions?

I want something in the 120-125g range.

[jons1]

Softer the shaft the better.

Graphite shafts offer the most shock absorption.

Wrist wrap products could add some stability.

And consider some rest on it.

 

[MizunoMade]

The softer shaft idea does not work for me. I have tried it, as I said. C-taper hurts less so I think I might have more issues with shafts that have more flex in the butt.

I have wrist protection and I live in Scandinavia so rest comes every winter.

[animalgolfs]

RIP 115x

 

it's not the desired weight - but fits

[thezinfan]

If you like CTaper, how about CTaper Lite?

[Colej]

I’ve got wrist pain as well but it’s pretty much every shot, to some extent. Go get a EMG done and figure out how bad your carpel tunnel is. Could also be something else that could be narrowed down by a EMG as well.

[Stuart_G]

Not to be a jerk or anything but have you seen a doctor about it yet? Best to deal with those types of injuries early to help keep them from becoming a long term chronic problem.

But if it's a known issue and already has become chronic, you could try the prosoft inserts in your existing shafts, it's a cheap experiment so might be worth trying. But I'm guessing you're going to need to go to graphite - which based on your steel shaft preferences means most likely either the steelfiber i125 or the Recoil proto 125. Softer grips may help as well - I like the Lamkin Comfort plus but the Golf Prode CP2's are pretty good as well.

 

 

[MizunoMade]

That would be the smart thing to do but I am not smart. Been 6 years since the injury ?

I was thinking about prosoft inserts but something in the back of my head says that I read it to be more or less a hoax!?

Steelfibers is the most likely candidate or the mmt 125 but nowhere to test and expensive as well .

[Stuart_G]

They are definitely not a hoax. Although it's not as much help as you'd get going to graphite, it does help some. Whether it's going to be enough or not is tougher question to answer. For some people it is enough for others it's not.

[animalgolfs]

IMO pro inserts dampen bad swing vibrations you feel through your hands/wrist/fingers.

 

They do not dampen the effects off a golf swing.... Especially the way Recoil, Steelfiber & others do.

 

 

[Joelsim]

Just get graphite shafts. If they’re lighter than you’re used to, it may take a round or two to get used to the change.

[Stuart_G]

Graphite doesn't dampen anything during the swing, only at impact.

Plenty of different weight options available in graphite from 60 gm all the way up to 125 gm. So zero need to sacrifice weight to get relief.

[Joelsim]

The OP suggested that it was a bad impact that caused most of the problems he’s having. I’m not sure what other parts of the swing would need to be dampened.

But yes, you could get heavier shafts in graphite too, just not necessarily any stock options.

[Philomathesq]

I have wrist pain due to arthritis. I have tried many different shafts, including the Mitsubishi MMT 125TX, but the shaft that has worked the best at reducing pain, FOR ME, is the C-Taper 130X. It is much better, FOR ME, than the TI X100 and MMT 125TX. I’ve tried many other lighter weight options, but I just can’t swing lighter shafts properly.

[Stuart_G]

I have no idea why @animalgolfs thought dampening might be needed or even exist elsewhere in the swing. Some players need relief from pain issues during the swing - normally caused by stress on the tendons during the swing. In those cases, shaft weight and stiffness profile can influence the pain. But that has nothing to do with the graphite vs steel or dampening. Although those conditions can be aggravated by impact as well as stress during the swing, in which case the player might need to look at both material as well as the other properties.
Yes, off-the shelf, stock graphite target the older or slower swing speed players who need lighter weight shafts. Unfortunately generally not a good fit for stronger players who need the pain relief.

[Socrates]

About 5 years ago, I suffered a slight tear in my right wrist TFCC (MRI confirmed). Did it using an impact wrench. Since I'm not a pro athlete and I didn't want to pay for the surgery, I have lived with taping it before each round. I had built up the strength of the wrist to a point where I could do without the tape for golf, but re-injured it about 18 months ago and tape it for anything that stresses the wrist (using a hammer, screw gun, golf, snow shoveling). I wouldn't be surprised if the OP has a similar injury as they are very common. As with any injuries, get it seen by a Dr. and go from there.

[animalgolfs]

Yes, that's exactly what I meant. Impact on bad swings vs good swings

 

An insert dampening is only felt on bad swings.... Whereas impact on good swings is different regarding overall on graphite vs steel. Not only dampening but absorption throughout the shaft

 

I'll also be the 1st saying that graphite absorbes certain pain in the hands during the swing IMO

 

swinging a PX 6.0 vs Recoil 125 - free swing produces much different results on the hands/wrist alone

 

The absolute worst shaft for wrist /hand pain was the Black Gold.... I've never hurt so bad from a simple warm up in my life. I dreaded hitting range balls with those shafts

[thesamwise]

If you're still hitting off mats, you have to stop that right now. No more mats, Bro Dimaggibro.

[MizunoMade]

Same as me then, I would like to understand why that shaft reduces pain being as stiff as it is. I do believe I loose a bit of performance with c-taper 130x as I swing slower nowadays.

[wcgolfer]

This. Graphite is your best bet and it has done wonders for my elbow. But if you must play steel, use prosoft inserts. They really do make a difference. Not as much as graphite but way better than straight steel.

[Stuart_G]

I'm not the one who needed any convincing so I'm guessing you meant to say that to the OP instead of me.

[MizunoMade]

Stuart, been looking around and I am unsure If I should try steelfibers 125cw, Fuji mci 120 or mmt 125. Is there a difference in what is easiest to build? Will be pulling out s200 from a backup set to try.

[MizunoMade]

Stuart, can you give me an idea about ease of build? Will be pulling s200’s and would like to go as close to straight in without weights as possible. Mci120, mmt125 or steelfibers 125cw?

[Stuart_G]

I've only worked with the SF i95's, i110's and fc90's but haven't worked with the i125's. The i110's were the only ones that needed what I might consider an unusually high about of tip weight to swing weight correct. 6-8 gm. He fc90's and i95's usualy only needed a couple grams to get the same swing weight as TT DG's. Recoil's were another shaft that balance real well. Sorry, no experience with the MCI's or MMT's.

But, while it can be a pain and takes a little more work, I don't really consider the need to add tip weights as added difficulty. Chances are that your current set is using tip weights to deal with head weight manufacturing tolerances so it may not be avoidable regardless of what shafts you pick.

[wcgolfer]

I was affirming your post by stating “This” to start.

[platgof]

If you go graphite, your body will love you for it. If you go back to steel, your body will kick your a... for it. I had to go graphite 10 years ago or more because of elbow issues, now I can't even load a steel shaft anymore. Graphite adds years of extra playability to your golf life.