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Blade users thread (NO DEBATING CLUBHEADS! NO Buy Sell Trade!)


Bigmean

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On the subject of the MP-4 4i, this might be heresy for this thread, but I think that for serious rounds I will definitely be switching it out for my Honma Tw-U 4i. The blade is certainly sweet when nutted, but it *is" harder to hit. However, the main reasons I will switch it out are 1) the Honma goes higher than the 4i, so it's better for holding greens, and 2) it is a bit longer, more like a 3i/4i cross. This helps with gapping, as going with the MP4 4i leaves a big gap between that and the 7w.

Incidentally, the 7w is such a beast, I think it has made my 4w obsolete. I am now eyeing a Srixon F45 three wood :pimp:

Oh, and I bought a Ping Rapture #2 driving iron recently. That's another beast :swoon: I need to drop a wedge so it can find its way into the bag

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Interesting thoughts on the hybrid/long iron issue. I think, as mahonie said (and DeNinny seemed to back this up), if you're a sweeper, it will make less difference than if you are a digger or have a steep AoA.

 

Anyway, went to the range today for a great practice session. I just wish I had been able to go to the course after it. Since I developed the snap hooks last year (about a year ago to the day, in fact), I have been doing all sorts of things to get my form back. Some have been bandaids, some have brought me closer to my goal. About a month ago I realized that my hands and wrists were taut at address (I was trying to get an upright stance, I guess), and that was a real revelation to me. I think the final piece fell into place today. Well, a few days ago really, I as realized I lead my swing with my hands. I have always done this, but at some point last year I stopped doing this and started trying to lead with my arms or shoulders. Anyway, today was a good day.

 

How good? Well, my "litmus test" clubs were generally good, and that's not something I have been able to say for a year.

My MP-4 4i was solid, and flying well. No low, top-spin hooks. My 4w off the deck was *generally" OK. And an old persimmon Slazenger driver I picked up recently was going really well. If I can hit those clubs right, then I know my swing is good. And I was creaming them. After hitting a few with the Slazenger, I picked up my G20 and just nailed the ball. I figured practicing with persimmon would help me focus on the quality of the strike, and boy did it ever.

 

NCN, just to add a little to your hands revelation, ideally for simplicity you want to coordinate the hinge and unhinge action of your hands with the bend and straightening of your trail elbow. And as you downswing the hands are relaxed as the club simply drags directly behind them. *If* your hands and forearms are tense, the club won't naturally drag behind them which causes the swing to becomes less efficient and consistent. With relaxed hands, you can use less energy to turn faster, and you will be more consistent.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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NCN, just to add a little to your hands revelation, ideally for simplicity you want to coordinate the hinge and unhinge action of your hands with the bend and straightening of your trail elbow. And as you downswing the hands are relaxed as the club simply drags directly behind them. *If* your hands and forearms are tense, the club won't naturally drag behind them which causes the swing to becomes less efficient and consistent. With relaxed hands, you can use less energy to turn faster, and you will be more consistent.

 

I think that I do that unconsciously, provided my hands/wrists are in the right position at setup. I do recall last year trying to bend my right elbow differently to try and get a steeper take back. That might have been where it all started going so wrong!

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NCN, just to add a little to your hands revelation, ideally for simplicity you want to coordinate the hinge and unhinge action of your hands with the bend and straightening of your trail elbow. And as you downswing the hands are relaxed as the club simply drags directly behind them. *If* your hands and forearms are tense, the club won't naturally drag behind them which causes the swing to becomes less efficient and consistent. With relaxed hands, you can use less energy to turn faster, and you will be more consistent.

 

I think that I do that unconsciously, provided my hands/wrists are in the right position at setup. I do recall last year trying to bend my right elbow differently to try and get a steeper take back. That might have been where it all started going so wrong!

 

Ok so now you smell what I'm stepping in...

 

...to be even more efficient, it is best that the two hinges, the one formed by the wrists and the other from the trail elbow, fall as close as possible on the same plane. Meaning, as they both unhinge, it is all done as best possible along a single plane. It won't be a perfect plane, but it is an ideal. The reason why this is ideal is because both those unhinging motions create centripetal forces and if they are pulling in different directions, then this again creates inefficiency and inconsistency. Best is to keep both hinges inside the same plane, much like a whip most easily cracks on a flat plane.

 

The trail arm straightening is a complex motion in the swing because it is the action that causes the clubface to rotate back to square or perpendicular to the clubhead path from being parallel to it. That action combined with the wrists unhinging is complicated so it is best to sychronize and simplify their motions. If not, a lot can go wrong.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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Ok so now you smell what I'm stepping in...

 

...to be even more efficient, it is best that the two hinges, the one formed by the wrists and the other from the trail elbow, fall as close as possible on the same plane. Meaning, as they both unhinge, it is all done as best possible along a single plane. It won't be a perfect plane, but it is an ideal. The reason why this is ideal is because both those unhinging motions create centripetal forces and if they are pulling in different directions, then this again creates inefficiency and inconsistency. Best is to keep both hinges inside the same plane, much like a whip most easily cracks on a flat plane.

 

The trail arm straightening is a complex motion in the swing because it is the action that causes the clubface to rotate back to square or perpendicular to the clubhead path from being parallel to it. That action combined with the wrists unhinging is complicated so it is best to sychronize and simplify their motions. If not, a lot can go wrong.

 

I think I understand that logic, but that's not something I want to think about too deeply as I set up over the ball!

 

I will tell you this, and it probably backs up your talk about efficiency: I was hitting the ball today as far as I used to hit it prior to my swing collapse last year. Wrists and right elbow hinging naturally (which is what "synchronized" feels like to me in this case) helped me generate more speed in the downswing.

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Ok so now you smell what I'm stepping in...

 

...to be even more efficient, it is best that the two hinges, the one formed by the wrists and the other from the trail elbow, fall as close as possible on the same plane. Meaning, as they both unhinge, it is all done as best possible along a single plane. It won't be a perfect plane, but it is an ideal. The reason why this is ideal is because both those unhinging motions create centripetal forces and if they are pulling in different directions, then this again creates inefficiency and inconsistency. Best is to keep both hinges inside the same plane, much like a whip most easily cracks on a flat plane.

 

The trail arm straightening is a complex motion in the swing because it is the action that causes the clubface to rotate back to square or perpendicular to the clubhead path from being parallel to it. That action combined with the wrists unhinging is complicated so it is best to sychronize and simplify their motions. If not, a lot can go wrong.

 

I think I understand that logic, but that's not something I want to think about too deeply as I set up over the ball!

 

I will tell you this, and it probably backs up your talk about efficiency: I was hitting the ball today as far as I used to hit it prior to my swing collapse last year. Wrists and right elbow hinging naturally (which is what "synchronized" feels like to me in this case) helped me generate more speed in the downswing.

 

And ultimately the reason you generate that extra speed is because with those wrists relaxed and setup to unhinge in synchronicity with the trail arm straightening, you can generate high centripetal force on the weight of the club and let it pull those relaxed arms and hands to full extension to a point PAST impact.

 

At the top of the swing you are set up to drag the club directly behind the hands as they downswing. Also the trail arm and wrists are hinged which puts the mass of the club closer to the body. This is a low MOI rotation position and is ideal for generating rotational acceleration. And so as you turn faster and faster in the downswing, the centripetal force on the club mass will pull on it more and more. And so without much hands and arms actions, you just relax them and let centripetal force just pull the arms to full extension to a point just past impact. The key is to relax those arms and let centripetal force be the source of the swing's power.

 

Oh and most definitely don't think about any of this as you swing. Just use the info to put purpose to those motions that just feel right. Use it for troubleshooting, not swing thoughts!

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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And ultimately the reason you generate that extra speed is because with those wrists relaxed and setup to unhinge in synchronicity with the trail arm straightening, you can generate high centripetal force on the weight of the club and let it pull those relaxed arms and hands to full extension to a point PAST impact.

 

At the top of the swing you are set up to drag the club directly behind the hands as they downswing. Also the trail arm and wrists are hinged which puts the mass of the club closer to the body. This is a low MOI rotation position and is ideal for generating rotational acceleration. And so as you turn faster and faster in the downswing, the centripetal force on the club mass will pull on it more and more. And so without much hands and arms actions, you just relax them and let centripetal force just pull the arms to full extension to a point just past impact. The key is to relax those arms and let centripetal force be the source of the swing's power.

 

Oh and most definitely don't think about any of this as you swing. Just use the info to put purpose to those motions that just feel right. Use it for troubleshooting, not swing thoughts!

 

And I thought I was just swinging a golf club... :taunt:

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And ultimately the reason you generate that extra speed is because with those wrists relaxed and setup to unhinge in synchronicity with the trail arm straightening, you can generate high centripetal force on the weight of the club and let it pull those relaxed arms and hands to full extension to a point PAST impact.

 

At the top of the swing you are set up to drag the club directly behind the hands as they downswing. Also the trail arm and wrists are hinged which puts the mass of the club closer to the body. This is a low MOI rotation position and is ideal for generating rotational acceleration. And so as you turn faster and faster in the downswing, the centripetal force on the club mass will pull on it more and more. And so without much hands and arms actions, you just relax them and let centripetal force just pull the arms to full extension to a point just past impact. The key is to relax those arms and let centripetal force be the source of the swing's power.

 

Oh and most definitely don't think about any of this as you swing. Just use the info to put purpose to those motions that just feel right. Use it for troubleshooting, not swing thoughts!

 

And I thought I was just swinging a golf club... :taunt:

 

And I thought I was just explaining the simple physics behind it. Here is Hogan saying the same thing (sans science):

 

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

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Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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So I put my Porn Stars back in the bag today and had a wonderful time with them. Shot 41-42 that could have easily been a solid 80 . Overall my game felt good. It wasn't perfect, but for the most part my swing was feeling good. LOL I think discussing it with NCN helped me subconsciously somehow. And I have to say I just flat out love my bag and I don't know if the honeymoon phase will ever end with my BB sets. It really doesn't ever seem that I have a bad ballstriking day with them. And in particular the black borons are just perfect. Best irons ever. Also I'm really liking the black wedges. One thing that is different in them is that I have both the 53* and 60* at the same 7* bounce. Plus I play the same length in both so they are just super consistent in how they play and feel. I should have gone to the same and lowest bounce possible a long time ago with wedges.

 

And wow it has not taken long to get used to my 2i. I can't thank all you 2i blade users enough for turning me onto it. To start off the day I hit five range balls with it and each one was hit solid. I was giggling like a baby after each one as I watched them carry the same 185-190 yds every time. Then on the course I used it twice and both shots were hit solid. The first one was a 195 yard approach on #2, our longest par 4. I hit a just beautiful high cut and put it in the middle of the green 20 ft from the hole and made par. The second was another 195 yd approach on #10 that I put pin high 15 ft from the hole and made birdie. I have hit 5w shots like both of these and I do love the 5w, but shots like that certainly don't FEEL like my 2i. What a special club.

 

To continue with the discussion on psychology, it may surprise all of you, but I take the psychology of this game as equally serious as the technical side. And the way that I enhance my psychology is by playing clubs that a) give me every technical edge possible, b) feel as awesome as possible, and c) are as beautiful as I can make them. I want full advantage at all possible levels with my clubs and so absolutely I take aesthetics into account and that is why I am so meticulous about my paint and epoxy filling with all my irons. When I look at my bag, I want to have a smile and only positive thoughts over each and every club. And yes even when I know the technical benefits are not really that significant in the grand scheme of things, I still want every performance edge as possible and so the only irons that motivate me to play this game are blades. They are the best performing, best feeling, and most beautiful irons, and there is no substitute (IMHO).

 

Edit: I forgot to mention that I saw some mp29s for the first time up close in the pro shop today and got to hold them but not hit or swing them. I was instantly enthralled with their simple muscle and liked that the heads seemed compact. Great, great design and I can totally see why others speak highly of them. I put them in Mizuno's upper echelon of blades for sure. I would love to hit them.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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I think I owe Bigmean some royalties... ever since the mention of getting too handsy in the swing I've stopped it and have been playing nicely. Shot level this weekend to win the morning comp, lost the whole day comp by a shot unfortunately... It's just nice to be swinging well! Except the driver cost me a couple shots so I need to fiddle with that a little, I've got the pull hook action going which I never do so I need to sort that out asap.

 

With regards to the Hybrid or Driving iron choice, I love my driving iron! Yeah it doesn't feel as good as my blade 4 iron but it certainly feels better than a hybrid and I cannot argue with the results, time and time again it performs, the only time it gets a bit sketchy is out the long rough but that's why I have a 5 wood.

Titleist 910D3 9.5°
Taylormade Rocketballz tour 18°

Mizuno MP-H4 2 iron
Callaway ApexMB '18 4 - PW
Vokey SM7 52° + 58°
Ping Scottsdale Halfpipe

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Well, my tee problems are just atrocious, it is to the point I am just a headcase standing over it now. Chipping is mentalclusterf*ck too, but I dropped one yesterday over a trap haha. I played a lot, 2 balls first nine because slow play ahead, then 18 holes. I think it was something like 39/42/40/38. The back nine 38, I didn't allow myself to hit driver, (but I still did on 2 holes bc made most sense). My iron play was great for me, even my miscues were miscues in selection, or well struck but offline. The feeling between my BBs and staffs is a pretty significant difference, which is more than fine because I was looking for specifically different, but the Miuras make you remember fast what they are about. The second set is worth it almost to break complacency with them. If I could drive and chip like a 8 cap I would never see the 80s. I was thinking, I bet I drive the ball like a mid 90s golfer, and chip like mid or upper 80s. Just fair assessment from people I have played with over the years, only difference is I can sneak in a few shots that seem my cap appropriate.

 

I am getting a new driver and wedges, just because I can't keep doing this and I can't even look at them anymore right now, I have 3 lessons left, and I don'taee if all 3 hours are on driver, it is what I am requesting.

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I think I owe Bigmean some royalties... ever since the mention of getting too handsy in the swing I've stopped it and have been playing nicely. Shot level this weekend to win the morning comp, lost the whole day comp by a shot unfortunately... It's just nice to be swinging well! Except the driver cost me a couple shots so I need to fiddle with that a little, I've got the pull hook action going which I never do so I need to sort that out asap.

 

With regards to the Hybrid or Driving iron choice, I love my driving iron! Yeah it doesn't feel as good as my blade 4 iron but it certainly feels better than a hybrid and I cannot argue with the results, time and time again it performs, the only time it gets a bit sketchy is out the long rough but that's why I have a 5 wood.

 

Well played, nice round.

I had an MP-H4 for a while, and I regret selling it a bit. It wasn't great feel-wise, but it wasn't awful either. What put me of it was that I found it to be a bit short, or rather, not that much longer than my 5i. I want a 4i that fills a big gap, but the H4 didn't quite do it. That said, it performed when it needed to. I actually sold it after a round in which I hit two greens out of two with it. WHY!?

I think the Honma #4 driving iron I have now is actually the best replacement for it. It feels better, is as easy to hit, and goes further. Since selling the MP-H4 nearly three years ago, I've really messed (ho'ed) around with that gap in my gap, and spent a lot of money on a club that doesn't see that much playing time. I relieved I've finally find the club that fits.

Now, as for the Rapture 2i, well it's not really a necessity, as I think it goes about the same distance as my 7w, just with a different trajectory. Fairways around here don't roll out much, so carry is more important, and that's why I think the 7w will see more playing time. But I really like the Rapture flight, and it's easy to hit. I'm happy to drop a wedge to play the Rapture AND the 7w, but ideally I would have like a Rapture #3.

I suppose I could buy a Honma TW-U #3. That'd please the wife no end.

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I think I owe Bigmean some royalties... ever since the mention of getting too handsy in the swing I've stopped it and have been playing nicely. Shot level this weekend to win the morning comp, lost the whole day comp by a shot unfortunately... It's just nice to be swinging well! Except the driver cost me a couple shots so I need to fiddle with that a little, I've got the pull hook action going which I never do so I need to sort that out asap.

 

With regards to the Hybrid or Driving iron choice, I love my driving iron! Yeah it doesn't feel as good as my blade 4 iron but it certainly feels better than a hybrid and I cannot argue with the results, time and time again it performs, the only time it gets a bit sketchy is out the long rough but that's why I have a 5 wood.

 

Well played, nice round.

I had an MP-H4 for a while, and I regret selling it a bit. It wasn't great feel-wise, but it wasn't awful either. What put me of it was that I found it to be a bit short, or rather, not that much longer than my 5i. I want a 4i that fills a big gap, but the H4 didn't quite do it. That said, it performed when it needed to. I actually sold it after a round in which I hit two greens out of two with it. WHY!?

I think the Honma #4 driving iron I have now is actually the best replacement for it. It feels better, is as easy to hit, and goes further. Since selling the MP-H4 nearly three years ago, I've really messed (ho'ed) around with that gap in my gap, and spent a lot of money on a club that doesn't see that much playing time. I relieved I've finally find the club that fits.

Now, as for the Rapture 2i, well it's not really a necessity, as I think it goes about the same distance as my 7w, just with a different trajectory. Fairways around here don't roll out much, so carry is more important, and that's why I think the 7w will see more playing time. But I really like the Rapture flight, and it's easy to hit. I'm happy to drop a wedge to play the Rapture AND the 7w, but ideally I would have like a Rapture #3.

I suppose I could buy a Honma TW-U #3. That'd please the wife no end.

 

Thanks NCN!

 

I'm surprised at the H4 being short cause I think mine is silly long... I hear you on the different trajectories, that's why I have a 5 wood in the bag as well, for that extra bit of height. I was puzzling about throwing some graphite in the 2 iron to maybe get a bit more height out of it but I'm scared to mess with such a good stick.

 

Stick with the Honma and then add the 3 so the 4 doesn't get lonely, if the wife complains just say it was for GolfWRX reasons.

Titleist 910D3 9.5°
Taylormade Rocketballz tour 18°

Mizuno MP-H4 2 iron
Callaway ApexMB '18 4 - PW
Vokey SM7 52° + 58°
Ping Scottsdale Halfpipe

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I don't get how I was more or less pumping my 3 wood (15*) 245-255 with the soft or larger on accident but playable fade I see before tee shots, but couldn't buy that with driver. It is super mental now. Like I have a feeling my body knows my mind is lying to it and for some time I can't have honestly believed the lies I try to put into myself behind and over the ball when the brain is saying one thing and every fiber knows damn well something else is going to happen. This is what derailed me last summer. His is lessons, not drivers, but I dgaf, I am changing scenery. I hit my blades amazing yesterday, freaking awesome striking day, changing scenery works for me, and I have been with the ryoma since it first was amazing and I was hitting it so straight, now through hell the last 12 months.....maybe my drivers just go bad after a year and it is not my fault LoL.

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I played my blackout like a champ for a year then, poof, it looked like an alligator on a stick. I really tried to solve it but couldn't. But in all honesty the Epic is longer than the blackout was at its peak. And the blackout was long or so I had thought. But equally important the Epic is massively forgiving. I can just swing for the fences without worry.

Titlest Tsi2, 10*, GD ADDI 5
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TM P790 5-W, DG 105 R
Vokey SM7 48, 52, 56
Cameron Futura 5W


 
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Turtsoup blades are not shorter. Just depends on the loft. Lots of great options.

 

Read a little,in my price range to try, mp33 is about the best option. Sound about right? If i could bump it up to 4-450 then my options are endless. Id really like to have some z945s but I'd have to sell a putter and not sure I want to do so lol.

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Good recommendations on a set of blades to "try" before jumping fully in? Older mizunos, nikes, etc? Looking maybe couple hundred bucks as i love my apex but think i'm missing a lot of playability with them. Just not sure i can give up the distance and forgiveness. Baby steps lol

 

Find a cheap set of MP-33s?

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Turtsoup blades are not shorter. Just depends on the loft. Lots of great options.

 

Exactly so. Think in terms of loft instead of the club numbers and it all becomes clearer.

 

At the start of the season, I'd been playing my TM TP MC irons, which have lofts of 20/23/26/30/34/38/42/47, and add a 50 GW on top of that. A couple weeks ago, I dug out my Ram blades, which are 21/25/29/33/37/41/45/49, using a 53 GW. Have a shot where I'd be hitting 7i in the TMs, I just pull 6i in the Rams. It's virtually the same club, just has a different number on the sole.

The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini 11.5*, 43.5", Phenom NL 60X -or- Cobra SpeedZone, ProtoPype 80S, 43.5"

Fwy woods: King LTD 3/4, RIP Beta 90X -or- TM Sim2 Ti 3w, NV105 X
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h, MMT 80 S 

Irons grab bag:  1-PW Golden Ram TW276, NV105 S; 1-PW Golden Ram TW282, RIP Tour 115 R; 2-PW Golden Ram Vibration Matched, NS Pro 950WF S
Wedges:  Dynacraft Dual Millled 52*, SteelFiber i125 S -or- Scratch 8620 DD 53*, SteelFiber i125 S; Cobra Snakebite 56* -or- Wilson Staff PMP 58*, Dynamic S -or- Ram TW282 SW -or- Ram TW276 SW
Putter:  Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34" -or- Cleveland Huntington Beach #1, 34.5" -or- Golden Ram TW Custom, 34" -or- Rife Bimini, 34" -or- Maxfli TM-2, 35"
Balls: Chrome Soft, Kirkland Signature 3pc (v3)

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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Turtsoup blades are not shorter. Just depends on the loft. Lots of great options.

 

Read a little,in my price range to try, mp33 is about the best option. Sound about right? If i could bump it up to 4-450 then my options are endless. Id really like to have some z945s but I'd have to sell a putter and not sure I want to do so lol.

 

 

MP33 are one of the classics. They'd be a good choice.

 

MP14s are also a good choice, but they might be harder to find. ;)

The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini 11.5*, 43.5", Phenom NL 60X -or- Cobra SpeedZone, ProtoPype 80S, 43.5"

Fwy woods: King LTD 3/4, RIP Beta 90X -or- TM Sim2 Ti 3w, NV105 X
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h, MMT 80 S 

Irons grab bag:  1-PW Golden Ram TW276, NV105 S; 1-PW Golden Ram TW282, RIP Tour 115 R; 2-PW Golden Ram Vibration Matched, NS Pro 950WF S
Wedges:  Dynacraft Dual Millled 52*, SteelFiber i125 S -or- Scratch 8620 DD 53*, SteelFiber i125 S; Cobra Snakebite 56* -or- Wilson Staff PMP 58*, Dynamic S -or- Ram TW282 SW -or- Ram TW276 SW
Putter:  Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34" -or- Cleveland Huntington Beach #1, 34.5" -or- Golden Ram TW Custom, 34" -or- Rife Bimini, 34" -or- Maxfli TM-2, 35"
Balls: Chrome Soft, Kirkland Signature 3pc (v3)

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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Two things about this past weekend's golf...

 

First, I played my TM TP MCs on Friday, my Rams w/SPB shafts on Sunday. I much prefer playing with Ram blades to the MCs. I scored better with them, too, but it didn't have much to do with the irons; I had the "caffeinated rhino" short game working Friday. Ugh.

 

Second, I've been doing my own reworking of my swing, though it's in much simpler terms than what y'all have been discussing here. My swing has always been the length of what you see in John Daly, going well past parallel, only without the annoying talent. I've attempted to shorten it from time to time with little success. This year, I'm doing that again, trying to not go so far past parallel.

 

And it's been working, off and on. At first, I was worried about losing distance with the shorter backswing, something I'd been noticing so far this season. But yesterday, with the shorter swing, I was hitting the ball about my normal distance, maybe even a bit better, with better accuracy.

 

Except for the ugly hooks that showed up yesterday, off and on, from over-releasing the club. I was playing moderately well, but had a triple and two doubles in the last five holes to spoil an otherwise good score. Ugh.

The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini 11.5*, 43.5", Phenom NL 60X -or- Cobra SpeedZone, ProtoPype 80S, 43.5"

Fwy woods: King LTD 3/4, RIP Beta 90X -or- TM Sim2 Ti 3w, NV105 X
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h, MMT 80 S 

Irons grab bag:  1-PW Golden Ram TW276, NV105 S; 1-PW Golden Ram TW282, RIP Tour 115 R; 2-PW Golden Ram Vibration Matched, NS Pro 950WF S
Wedges:  Dynacraft Dual Millled 52*, SteelFiber i125 S -or- Scratch 8620 DD 53*, SteelFiber i125 S; Cobra Snakebite 56* -or- Wilson Staff PMP 58*, Dynamic S -or- Ram TW282 SW -or- Ram TW276 SW
Putter:  Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34" -or- Cleveland Huntington Beach #1, 34.5" -or- Golden Ram TW Custom, 34" -or- Rife Bimini, 34" -or- Maxfli TM-2, 35"
Balls: Chrome Soft, Kirkland Signature 3pc (v3)

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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Two things about this past weekend's golf...

 

First, I played my TM TP MCs on Friday, my Rams w/SPB shafts on Sunday. I much prefer playing with Ram blades to the MCs. I scored better with them, too, but it didn't have much to do with the irons; I had the "caffeinated rhino" short game working Friday. Ugh.

 

Second, I've been doing my own reworking of my swing, though it's in much simpler terms than what y'all have been discussing here. My swing has always been the length of what you see in John Daly, going well past parallel, only without the annoying talent. I've attempted to shorten it from time to time with little success. This year, I'm doing that again, trying to not go so far past parallel.

 

And it's been working, off and on. At first, I was worried about losing distance with the shorter backswing, something I'd been noticing so far this season. But yesterday, with the shorter swing, I was hitting the ball about my normal distance, maybe even a bit better, with better accuracy.

 

Except for the ugly hooks that showed up yesterday, off and on, from over-releasing the club. I was playing moderately well, but had a triple and two doubles in the last five holes to spoil an otherwise good score. Ugh.

 

I went through the same exact thing starting in August 2015. If anything, I have picked up distance after getting use to it. I can't hardly take a 3/4 swing now and wouldn't have it any other way. Feel soooooo much more in control. Stick with it, it will help

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Well, I just purchased 2-PW MP33 with S300s for 160 shipped. Think that's pretty solid. Little beat up with bag chatter and probably have to get the LLL checked and new grips but its a start. Thanks for the help guys

 

Nicely done. You certainly didn't waste any time. :pimp:

<salute>

 

 

Two things about this past weekend's golf...

 

First, I played my TM TP MCs on Friday, my Rams w/SPB shafts on Sunday. I much prefer playing with Ram blades to the MCs. I scored better with them, too, but it didn't have much to do with the irons; I had the "caffeinated rhino" short game working Friday. Ugh.

 

Second, I've been doing my own reworking of my swing, though it's in much simpler terms than what y'all have been discussing here. My swing has always been the length of what you see in John Daly, going well past parallel, only without the annoying talent. I've attempted to shorten it from time to time with little success. This year, I'm doing that again, trying to not go so far past parallel.

 

And it's been working, off and on. At first, I was worried about losing distance with the shorter backswing, something I'd been noticing so far this season. But yesterday, with the shorter swing, I was hitting the ball about my normal distance, maybe even a bit better, with better accuracy.

 

Except for the ugly hooks that showed up yesterday, off and on, from over-releasing the club. I was playing moderately well, but had a triple and two doubles in the last five holes to spoil an otherwise good score. Ugh.

 

I went through the same exact thing starting in August 2015. If anything, I have picked up distance after getting use to it. I can't hardly take a 3/4 swing now and wouldn't have it any other way. Feel soooooo much more in control. Stick with it, it will help

 

It's the accuracy that has caught my attention. For years, I've been a pretty decent long iron player, but my short irons relatively less so. There was a time it was a much better chance for me to hit a green with a 4 iron than with an 8 iron.

 

With the shorter backswing, I am more accurate with those short irons (relatively speaking, of course). If I can keep the distance the same, or even get back some of what I feel I've lost in the last two or three years, I would be a very happy camper.

 

I've been worried I couldn't play the SPBs in my Rams any longer, worried they'd be borderline too stiff, but my rounds this year suggest I can. Which is a good thing. :)

 

Another nice touch, I'm hitting the ball a bit lower with the new swing. I used to have a launch around 18° or even 19° with a 29° club. Bit on the high side. ;)

The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini 11.5*, 43.5", Phenom NL 60X -or- Cobra SpeedZone, ProtoPype 80S, 43.5"

Fwy woods: King LTD 3/4, RIP Beta 90X -or- TM Sim2 Ti 3w, NV105 X
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h, MMT 80 S 

Irons grab bag:  1-PW Golden Ram TW276, NV105 S; 1-PW Golden Ram TW282, RIP Tour 115 R; 2-PW Golden Ram Vibration Matched, NS Pro 950WF S
Wedges:  Dynacraft Dual Millled 52*, SteelFiber i125 S -or- Scratch 8620 DD 53*, SteelFiber i125 S; Cobra Snakebite 56* -or- Wilson Staff PMP 58*, Dynamic S -or- Ram TW282 SW -or- Ram TW276 SW
Putter:  Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34" -or- Cleveland Huntington Beach #1, 34.5" -or- Golden Ram TW Custom, 34" -or- Rife Bimini, 34" -or- Maxfli TM-2, 35"
Balls: Chrome Soft, Kirkland Signature 3pc (v3)

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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Well, I just purchased 2-PW MP33 with S300s for 160 shipped. Think that's pretty solid. Little beat up with bag chatter and probably have to get the LLL checked and new grips but its a start. Thanks for the help guys

 

Nicely done. You certainly didn't waste any time. :pimp:

<salute>

 

 

Two things about this past weekend's golf...

 

First, I played my TM TP MCs on Friday, my Rams w/SPB shafts on Sunday. I much prefer playing with Ram blades to the MCs. I scored better with them, too, but it didn't have much to do with the irons; I had the "caffeinated rhino" short game working Friday. Ugh.

 

Second, I've been doing my own reworking of my swing, though it's in much simpler terms than what y'all have been discussing here. My swing has always been the length of what you see in John Daly, going well past parallel, only without the annoying talent. I've attempted to shorten it from time to time with little success. This year, I'm doing that again, trying to not go so far past parallel.

 

And it's been working, off and on. At first, I was worried about losing distance with the shorter backswing, something I'd been noticing so far this season. But yesterday, with the shorter swing, I was hitting the ball about my normal distance, maybe even a bit better, with better accuracy.

 

Except for the ugly hooks that showed up yesterday, off and on, from over-releasing the club. I was playing moderately well, but had a triple and two doubles in the last five holes to spoil an otherwise good score. Ugh.

 

I went through the same exact thing starting in August 2015. If anything, I have picked up distance after getting use to it. I can't hardly take a 3/4 swing now and wouldn't have it any other way. Feel soooooo much more in control. Stick with it, it will help

 

It's the accuracy that has caught my attention. For years, I've been a pretty decent long iron player, but my short irons relatively less so. There was a time it was a much better chance for me to hit a green with a 4 iron than with an 8 iron.

 

With the shorter backswing, I am more accurate with those short irons (relatively speaking, of course). If I can keep the distance the same, or even get back some of what I feel I've lost in the last two or three years, I would be a very happy camper.

 

I've been worried I couldn't play the SPBs in my Rams any longer, worried they'd be borderline too stiff, but my rounds this year suggest I can. Which is a good thing. :)

 

Another nice touch, I'm hitting the ball a bit lower with the new swing. I used to have a launch around 18° or even 19° with a 29° club. Bit on the high side. ;)

 

I definitely don't waste any time. Figure out what I want and pull the trigger. DONE!

 

I definitely fought hooking the ball for a while cause I was trying to help the ball in the air. Getting out in front of it and flipping my hands at it. Recently, I've gotten back into taking lessons. Getting my wrists hinged a little earlier and more upright in the backswing and really firing my left hip in transition and swinging left. IM HITTING FADES NOW!! Never thought I'd ever be able to hit a fade again lol.

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I was fighting an occasional pull hook, and have worked through my alignment. I was aiming right and over compensating. Not saying that is your issue, but I've been working on proper alignment and it's fixed a bit of the glitches.

 

Also working on a 3/4 swing from 120 yards and in. I've found it to be way more accurate. Play the ball a little back in the stance to flight it lower. Hit a great one 100' on the dot with a PW on Sunday to birdie a longish Par 5 that I laid up on.

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Two things about this past weekend's golf...

 

First, I played my TM TP MCs on Friday, my Rams w/SPB shafts on Sunday. I much prefer playing with Ram blades to the MCs. I scored better with them, too, but it didn't have much to do with the irons; I had the "caffeinated rhino" short game working Friday. Ugh.

 

Second, I've been doing my own reworking of my swing, though it's in much simpler terms than what y'all have been discussing here. My swing has always been the length of what you see in John Daly, going well past parallel, only without the annoying talent. I've attempted to shorten it from time to time with little success. This year, I'm doing that again, trying to not go so far past parallel.

 

And it's been working, off and on. At first, I was worried about losing distance with the shorter backswing, something I'd been noticing so far this season. But yesterday, with the shorter swing, I was hitting the ball about my normal distance, maybe even a bit better, with better accuracy.

 

Except for the ugly hooks that showed up yesterday, off and on, from over-releasing the club. I was playing moderately well, but had a triple and two doubles in the last five holes to spoil an otherwise good score. Ugh.

 

When my shortgame goes to shite it is more like a hyperactive monkey riding a caffeinated rhino.

 

I have a lifelong love/hate relationship with my overswing. I am interested in how your 'fix' progresses. I never really saw of it as a true 'issue' so long as you can keep your spine angle and position consistent throughout the entire backswing. What happens with me when it becomes an issue is that I turn so much on the way back that I literally start losing sight of the ball and then as a compensation I inadvertently either tilt my spine or slide my head forward just at the beginning of my DS in order to regain that sight on the ball which moves my spine out of position. It is not an issue when I am fresh but when I get tired later in the round I lose focus on it and then I start that 'drift' and don't even know it. It is so hard to fix because it is only a conditional issue and it changes your swing timing, so that is why it has been a lifelong struggle. LOL I have always thought of my overswing as the last thing to 'fix' after I fix everything else, so I keep putting it off. I *try* to shorten it by triggering my DS as soon as my lead shoulder hits my chin at the top of my BS, but old habits die hard. Real hard.

 

 

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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