Installing 370 shafts into 355 heads

[djdragon3]

I just got a full bag fitting at club champion and got fit into shafts that are only available in 370 tips with the jpx 900 forged. Anyone have experience with boring out the hostels. Is there concerns with messing up the angle it's bored at etc.. where can this usually be done?

[r34civic]

How did you get fit for a .370 shaft in the jpx 900?

[asw7576]

You need experienced technician to operate a vertical drilling machine. You will pay quite expensive service for reshafting process.

 

Basically, you need .370 shaft boring reamer to enlarge .355 mizuno hosel. However, a 3/8 metal drill bit can do the job as well. 3/8 = .375.

 

My tips : always buy new tip , high quality metal drill bit ( makita, bosch ) from ace hardware or home depot , and give the new tip to the golf pro shop technician.... don't use the drilling tip at the golf pro shop because it is often already dull. Don't drill with a hand drill.... not straight, not good.

[Golfrnut]

You don't drill out heads...you ream. Trying to drill is not only unneccessary and risks seizing a bit, it's a good way to hurt yourself.

 

Reamers can be bought from places like golfworks, are hand driven, and can be done by just about anyone. You also won't have the issue or worrying about getting offcenter and wrecking the bore.

[IsleOfMan]

Hand reamer was going to be my recommendation as well. I almost went this route to do my JPX EZ Forgeds so I could use some very well priced .370 Dynalite 100s instead of .355 Dynalite Gold XPs, but with the cost of the reamer it ended up not being much more expensive to go with .355 Dynalite Gold XP pulls instead.

[Jagpilotohio]

Depending on how good you are with power tools you could probably do it yourself. I did my mizunos 20 years ago. No problem. But I'm an expert with a hand drill from years of high end remodeling work.

 

.370 reamer from Golfworks. Drill oil. A good vice on a solid workbench. A rubber shaft clamp. A very good high torque corded drill.

 

That's what you need. Clamp the hosel in the rubber shaft clamp horizontal to the ground and point it a direction where you can go dead straight at it with a very steady hand. Apply oil periodically to not burn up the reamer. And yes, A really high quailty 3/8 inch drill bit will work as well, just don't go too deep with it. Mark the bit with tape to let you know when to stop.

 

Or the really easy way is to order them from mizuno but it sounds like you want to buy them used. Mizuno will do .370 shafts st the factory. At least they used to.

[brkuck]

You don't drill out heads...you ream. Trying to drill is not only unneccessary and risks seizing a bit, it's a good way to hurt yourself.

 

Reamers can be bought from places like golfworks, are hand driven, and can be done by just about anyone. You also won't have the issue or worrying about getting offcenter and wrecking the bore.

 

+1. The actual procedure to make a metal hole bigger is called reaming. A reamer is designed to do what you are looking to do. I have heard (and seen) people use a fresh drill bit and a drill thinking its the same thing and have had mixed results. Just ask yourself if it is worth it to do this.

[Stuart_G]

Hand reaming (with the right tools - which aren't that expensive) is so easy it's senseless and crazy to even consider trying to drill them out.

 

http://www.golfworks...amers/p/GW0115/

 

And they also work very well for general cleaning of the hossels after a pull.

[Nessism]

What specific shafts were you fit into? I'm having a hard time understanding why they would fit you into .370 shafts in the first place unless we are talking about graphite shafts. And realize that .370 graphite shafts can be sanded down at the tip to fit into .355 heads.

[Hack Daddy]

OP, I just went through this myself. Stuart G. gave me some guidance and I can tell you it was comically simple to do. I will add though - I have a background in precision firearm CNC and machining, also to include reaming of barrels. A drill is no host for a reamer, and anyone that tells you they've been using a drill when they ream heads is doing it wrong.

 

That being said, order the .370 reamer from Golfworks. Get a T-handle from your local hardware store, along with a quart of oil. Clean the heads with a hosel brush, dip the reamer in the oil, and insert into the hosel. Use light pressure and begin to turn. The reamer will self-center and you will see that you need minimal pressure to keep the reamer going in. Occasionally, stop the pressure and pull out - don't turn counterclockwise, to get the metal chips out. It will probably take you three to five minutes per head.

 

One thing I will recommend is that you fit each tip to each head. Once I got confident, I prep'd all my tips without realizing that the hosels were not a unformed spec. It was okay because I used 24 hour epoxy and collared ferrules, but it would have been a little tighter if I pre-fit before tip prep. I also recommend using say 180 or 200 grit in 1" strips and cleaning or prepping the tips by hand.

 

If you find that the shaft has a little play, that's not a big deal. When you go to actually epoxy the head on, bang it on the ground butt end first a few times to set the shaft well. You'll see that it becomes tight.

 

OP, this is a very simplistic and easy process to do, and honestly quiet fun.

 

[High Plains Driver]

As stated above, use a reamer, a clubhead vice, and a hand chuck with a little cutting oil.

The higher the rpms, the greater the risk of work hardening the metal.

[JCAG]

You need experienced technician to operate a vertical drilling machine. You will pay quite expensive service for reshafting process.

 

Basically, you need .370 shaft boring reamer to enlarge .355 mizuno hosel. However, a 3/8 metal drill bit can do the job as well. 3/8 = .375.

 

My tips : always buy new tip , high quality metal drill bit ( makita, bosch ) from ace hardware or home depot , and give the new tip to the golf pro shop technician.... don't use the drilling tip at the golf pro shop because it is often already dull. Don't drill with a hand drill.... not straight, not good.

 

Never drill to enlarge. Use a reamer and it is easy peezy to do. Can be done by hand.

[djdragon3]

Thanks for the tips. To answer a few questions. I got fit into Veylix graphite shafts which are only available in 370 tip as far as I know. Question I have is if I get only the 370 reamer will that fit into the 355 hosel? Do I need to start smaller and work it bigger?

[Golfrnut]

The bore openings are tapered, and are large enough already, it's deeper down in the bore where it gets smaller. You only need to purchase the .370 reamer, and I would also recommend the T-handle.

[IsleOfMan]

A few things...

 

A .355 iron shaft is a tapered tip... it's .355 at the tip and tapers up to .370 by the top of the hosel. Also, most graphite shafts can be sanded for installation in .355 heads without the need to ream. It may be a better option to just let an experienced club builder install them for you, including sanding the taper into them, if they're expensive shafts.

[Golfrnut]

http://www.golfworks.com/spiral-fluted-reamers/p/GW0115/

 

chucking handle is the T-handle

[Nessism]

Don't ream the heads, taper the shafts. There are threads here on this subject if you have never done it before.

[Hack Daddy]

Don't ream the heads, taper the shafts. There are threads here on this subject if you have never done it before.

 

With all due respect, thats the worse advise ever given on this subject.

 

Ream the heads, OP. You run the risk of going into the graphite if you try and taper them. There is no need to, especially when reaming is so, so easy. You could actually ream the heads quicker than you could taper the shafts.

[Socrates]

Don't ream the heads, taper the shafts. There are threads here on this subject if you have never done it before.

 

With all due respect, thats the worse advise ever given on this subject.

 

Ream the heads, OP. You run the risk of going into the graphite if you try and taper them. There is no need to, especially when reaming is so, so easy. You could actually ream the heads quicker than you could taper the shafts.

With all due respect, the advice to taper the shaft is correct. You might know about guns and steel, but graphite shafts you don't. All shaft OEM's will sand down graphite shafts for OEM's when it is more economic. There are several threads on this. As long as the shaft wall is sufficiently thick (sub 60 gram shafts can have very thin walls) taking off .0075" of the last 1/2" of shaft diameter has no effect on the shaft strength.

 

Reaming a hosel is fine, but it is a modification that can't be un-done. On a one-off basis, it far better to taper the graphite shaft as you never know if you are going back to steel.

[Ivor Robson]

Yes ream the heads graphite and steel. My clubfitter only uses .370 shafts (steel in irons) because it's easier to dial in the right specs being that he starts with shafts that are all the same length, weight, and flex. Yes the weight might be a little different, but most can't tell the difference. IMO taper tip is a lazy way out. OEM's use them because it's more cost effective than building each club from scratch using a parallel tip. The guys out on tour have their taper tip shafts sorted to nth degree. For the rest of us mortals it's the only way we're going to get all of our shafts to play similar. All my clubs with stock taper tip shafts have always been "all over the place" when I've had them checked. My clubfitter also does a few tour players. They prefer parallel c-tapers.

[Nessism]

Taper tip shafts are typically constant weight. Parallel tip are decreasing weight. There are a few ascending weight shafts on the market, like Recoil taper tip, too. Those are my favorite.

 

There is absolutely no reason to cut the heads and take weight out of them just so you can use .370 graphite shafts.

 

Found some threads about sanding the tip of .370" graphite shafts so they will fit into a .355 hosel...

 

http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/1124829-370-shaft-turned-into-355-taper-help/

 

http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/271272-370-graphite-shaft-in-a-355-hosel/

 

http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/450131-trim-370-tip-to-355/

[dunn]

Mizuno comes with threaded hosels....I have reamed out .355 Mizunos for .370 shafts using a 3/8 drill bit....fairly easy really as you basically just take threads out to a smooth hosel instead of threaded one...prolly not most accurate way but it worked and .370 shafts fit pretty tight...done this on athe least 3 or 4 dif ferret sets...ferrule sat pretry even around hosel on rebuild.....the threads drilled out without any any issues....I too am very experienced with drills and hand tools...30 yrs of carpentry and general contractor so to me what is simple maybe not so much for avg guy.....

 

But along with other poster above....why did you get fit into a .370 when they are .355 heads and how did they even have a .370 for you to try.....and who makes a .370 shafts but not a .355?

 

If it's graphite just sand the shaft down....way easier and you don't have to mess with hosel...and no you aren't gonna screw the graphite up...all graphite tips are prepped anyway and the amt your taking off is minor....sand the shaft down!

[Stuart_G]

My clubfitter also does a few tour players. They prefer parallel c-tapers.

 

For many of the steel shafts that are offered as both tapered and parallel (KBS, DG, PX, etc...) the bend profiles for the two versions are different and you need to think of them as different models and not really interchangeable if you are fit into one.

 

 

[djdragon3]

Taper tip shafts are typically constant weight. Parallel tip are decreasing weight. There are a few ascending weight shafts on the market, like Recoil taper tip, too. Those are my favorite.

 

There is absolutely no reason to cut the heads and take weight out of them just so you can use .370 graphite shafts.

 

Found some threads about sanding the tip of .370" graphite shafts so they will fit into a .355 hosel...

 

http://www.golfwrx.c...355-taper-help/

 

http://www.golfwrx.c...in-a-355-hosel/

 

http://www.golfwrx.c...370-tip-to-355/

 

I saw some quotes that in the link that if it's an ultralight shaft, it may not be a good idea to taper the parallel shaft tips. Any thoughts? Here is the link if you scroll down you can see the shaft specs. no tipping information either.. 873 Stiff flex is what I was fit into.

[djdragon3]

Taper tip shafts are typically constant weight. Parallel tip are decreasing weight. There are a few ascending weight shafts on the market, like Recoil taper tip, too. Those are my favorite.

 

There is absolutely no reason to cut the heads and take weight out of them just so you can use .370 graphite shafts.

 

Found some threads about sanding the tip of .370" graphite shafts so they will fit into a .355 hosel...

 

http://www.golfwrx.c...355-taper-help/

 

http://www.golfwrx.c...in-a-355-hosel/

 

http://www.golfwrx.c...370-tip-to-355/

 

I saw some quotes that in the link that if it's an ultralight shaft, it may not be a good idea to taper the parallel shaft tips. Any thoughts? Here is the link if you scroll down you can see the shaft specs. no tipping information either.. 873 Stiff flex is what I was fit into.

 

forgot the link. here it is. http://www.mag.veylix.com/whitegold

[Trap Junior]

Yes you need to hand ream with a handheld reamer.

 

I have been doing this for a few years now. One thing interesting happened me this year. I was building a set of irons with 2nd hand Rifle 6.0's. I reamed out the heads I was going to install the shafts into. But the shafts still wouldnt fit! I got out my callipers and they were 0.377 0.380!

 

I have never seen this. I hand to grind off the tips of the sfats to get them to .370 so they fit!

[Stuart_G]

I saw some quotes that in the link that if it's an ultralight shaft, it may not be a good idea to taper the parallel shaft tips. Any thoughts? Here is the link if you scroll down you can see the shaft specs. no tipping information either.. 873 Stiff flex is what I was fit into.

 

Lot's of people mean well and say that out of concern based on a lack of understanding of the principles involved not out of any actual knowledge or experience. Some older school builders automatically reject the idea because for the longest time it has not been considered a good practice with steel parallel tip shafts and can't digest the concept that it really isn't any kind of problem for graphite shafts because the wall thickness of the reinforced tip is significantly thicker in graphite than it is in steel - even in ultra lights - the weight reduction is not in the tip - they still have to hold up to impact between the club head and the ground for the rated swing speeds. The percentage of material removed to add the taper is at least an order of magnitude smaller. The section that is tapered is also deep in the hossel and (if the taper is done correctly and installed correctly) well supported by the glue joint and the walls of the hossel. Additional supporting facts come from confirmation from the shaft manufacturers themselves that they routinely do this all the time.

 

And finally if you pay attention to those threads - In that first linked thread - if Tom Wishon doesn't feel the need to voice any concerns and helps provide instructions on how to do it - there aren't any to be had.

http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/1124829-370-shaft-turned-into-355-taper-help/#entry10792663

 

However, the bottom line is that with the right tools and a bit of patience, both methods are equally functional and equally safe. Go whichever way you feel most comfortable with.

[Socrates]

Yes you need to hand ream with a handheld reamer.

 

I have been doing this for a few years now. One thing interesting happened me this year. I was building a set of irons with 2nd hand Rifle 6.0's. I reamed out the heads I was going to install the shafts into. But the shafts still wouldnt fit! I got out my callipers and they were 0.377 0.380!

 

I have never seen this. I hand to grind off the tips of the sfats to get them to .370 so they fit!

I've seen this in older Rifle and some Harrison shafts but that goes back a ways.

[Trap Junior]

Yes you need to hand ream with a handheld reamer.

 

I have been doing this for a few years now. One thing interesting happened me this year. I was building a set of irons with 2nd hand Rifle 6.0's. I reamed out the heads I was going to install the shafts into. But the shafts still wouldnt fit! I got out my callipers and they were 0.377 0.380!

 

I have never seen this. I hand to grind off the tips of the sfats to get them to .370 so they fit!

I've seen this in older Rifle and some Harrison shafts but that goes back a ways.

 

Yeah? This set of shafts is from circa 2006. I measured all my other Rifles and they are .372

[apprenti23]

Don't ream the heads, taper the shafts! For graphite shafts that do not come in .355 TT you always want to taper the shaft and not ream the heads.

 

If you have never done this before, you may just want to let the pros do it because there's nothing worse than if you were to sand this down too much! The cost of one shaft or any of this going wrong would probably cause you to lose any money that you saved by DIY