Shims in wedge shafts: need some honest advice

[Bunkerbum]

I've been trying to read up on using shims, but keep finding mixed reviews. Long story short, I am planning on ordering some blank wedge heads and the ones I am ordering are .370. I will need some shafts to go in them obviously. I see RBG has some very cheap wedge shaft (under $2 a piece) but they are .355.

 

It would be great to get a deal like that on the shafts, but I am concerned that in cheaping out, i'll be lessening the performance and longevity of the clubs to the point it's just not worth it. I get that using shims will never be as good as just buying the right size, but if it's really not that big of a deal that would be great to know too. It would be great to hear some honest thoughts on the actual impact (if any) using shims would really have. Thoughts?

[Taylormadehunter1]

In my experience with using shims, I’ll say that if done correctly you should never know it is in there and it shouldn’t give you any problems. Just make sure whoever is doing it knows what they are doing and you should be fine. 

[Nessism]

Shims are perfectly fine.  I recommend the type with scalloped shaped legs, not flat legs, because they hold the shaft tighter during curing.

 

 

[MPAndreassi]

Shims and extensions seem to get a lot of hate on here, but if both are done correctly there’s no issue using either. 

[mgoblue83]

What wedge blanks are you getting?

[GLF4EVR]

I was never a fan of brass shims, so I designed them to be Universal… they will work to adapt a .335 to .350  also .335 to .370 and they will work to adapt a .355 taper tip to a .370 parallel tip iron.  I created a dome curvature down the middle when compressed would fill the wanted space, and in turn the cut edge of the metal shim moves towards the side metal hosel.  So now you have the best of both worlds. We also contoured the shim edges and smoothed them for less abrasion to graphite shaft tips.

 

Something like this from Billy Bob's Golf is what Nessism is referring to.  Billy Bob's are 80 cents apiece.

[Adam C]

Been using brass shims for over 20 years. Maybe most underrated club making tool out there. Never any issues, extremely versatile, and cheap. Anyone saying they aren't good either has never used them or just doesn't have a good grip on club building, in my opinion.

[Bunkerbum]

That's great everyone, much appreciated. My gut feeling was they would be fine, but I always second guess myself. Just wanted to see what people think before I pull the trigger. And there was a question on the blanks, I think I am going to get them from toura golf, they told me they have 1020 carbon forged blanks coming in April so hopefully this all comes together as planned. 

[kjbuckeye]

2 hours ago, Taylormadehunter1 said:

In my experience with using shims, I’ll say that if done correctly you should never know it is in there and it shouldn’t give you any problems. Just make sure whoever is doing it knows what they are doing and you should be fine. 

What are some things people do wrong when using shims? 

[Nessism]

These ones look good...https://www.amazon.com/Aliennana-Brass-Shaft-Adapter-Accessories/dp/B08HTWPQG7/

 

 

[Nessism]

26 minutes ago, kjbuckeye said:

What are some things people do wrong when using shims? 

 

Use proper clubmaking technique and all will be fine.

 

Degrease the ID of the hosel and OD of the shaft using MEK or acetone.  Abrade the hosel and shaft using 220 grit sandpaper (make sure the sandpaper is fresh.)  Degrease again.  Let dry and then glue up the club.  Coat both the ID of the hosel and OD of the shaft, along with the shim.  Everything must be coated before the shaft is inserted.  Use high quality epoxy, not gorilla glue.  Set to dry in warm environment.  Ideally, after the epoxy gets firm you should warm the hosel to between 120-140F and allow it to cure for 90mins.  At this point the epoxy will be fully cured and the club can be hit.  There is no reason to wait 24+ hours, particularly when warming the club makes the epoxy stronger than room temperature cure.

Edited March 2, 2021 by Nessism

[kjbuckeye]

8 minutes ago, Nessism said:

 

Use proper clubmaking technique and all will be fine.

 

Degrease the ID of the hosel and OD of the shaft using MEK or acetone.  Abrade the hosel and shaft using 220 grit sandpaper (make sure the sandpaper is fresh.)  Degrease again.  Let dry and then glue up the club.  Coat both the ID of the hosel and OD of the shaft, along with the shim.  Everything must be coated before the shaft is inserted.  Use high quality epoxy, not gorilla glue.  Set to dry in warm environment.  Ideally, after the epoxy gets firm you should warm the hosel to between 120-140F and allow it to cure for 90mins.  At this point the epoxy will be fully cured and the club can be hit.  There is no reason to wait 24+ hours, particularly when warming the club makes the epoxy stronger than room temperature cure.

I gotcha. To me all that is standard procedure when assembling. Just making sure I wasn't missing something. What are you using to heat the hosel to accelerate curing without buying an expensive machine?

[Nessism]

A heat gun set on low, aimed at the hosels laying on the floor from about 30" away works well.  I stack a couple of boards behind the heads and use them as an air dam.  Set the wood in a V pattern with the heads in the notch of the V.