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Do-It-Yourself Putter Refinishing


amajeski

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That Never Compromise looks alot like a xg 9. I have a anser 2. Anybody got any ideas on what I can do to it?

Driver - Ping G425 Max 10.5 w Ventus Blue Velocore 60x
3 Wood - Ping G425 Max 14.5 w Ventus Blue Velocore 70x
Utility - Callaway Apex UW 19 w Ventus Blue Velocore 80x
Irons - Srixon ZX7 MKII 4-GW w $ Taper 130x
Sand Wedge - Titleist Vokey SM9 54.12D to 55.13D w S400 Dynamic Gold Tour
Lob Wedge - Titleist Vokey SM9 60.08M w S400 Dynamic Gold Tour
Putter - Taylormade Spider Tour w 35in Stability Tour

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I managed to get everything ready to go last night and finish the putter. I applied the Plum Brown to the sole of the putter first to see what it looked like and then on the flange. I followed the directions on the bottle and ended up with 3 coats to cover it. I wasn't too crazy about the color in the sunlight so I stripped it and started over from step one and put some Super Blue on it and that looked good but a little flat black for my eye so I started over and reapplied it again. It looked better the second time but I didn't think it looked that good with this head so I stripped it on more time and I'm ready to try "Plan C". I might try to use some metal gel stain.

 

Has anyone tried this before?

 

I'll post the photos I took last night when I get home.

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Anyone know what the head composition is on a TM Rossa Suzuka CGB putter?

 

How easy would this putter be to refinish? (aside from the obvious insert obstacle)

Callaway Rogue ST Max LS w/Tensei Orange // Callaway Epic Flash 3W w/GD Tour AD IZ-7 // Adams Idea Pro a12 w/UST VTS //

Callaway X Forged 2018 5-PW w/PX Catalyst 100 // Callaway JAWS MD5 50* 54* 58* & Full Toe 64* w/PX Catalyst 80 // Odyssey O-Works #7 Tank 38"

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can any one tell me some scotty cameron models that can be gub blued/ browned

 

 

The original Circa line. The dark black/blue ones (not the newer charcoal mist ones). The TeI3 models (which haven't been plated in Pro Platinum or Nickel), the originals with The Art Of Putting on the sole, and the ones with just Scotty Cameron and the model name on the sole.

 

If they are plated you can't do it. The plated finish has to be stripped on it.

 

 

You can't do the new Studio Style line, the Studio Stainless line, the Futura, Red X, etc.... Stainless can't be done.

 

Hope that helps.

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Real Gun Blueing - AKA Hot Blueing-

 

Notice please only perform this operation if appropriate facilities and training are recieved. Or if your a capable mature adult who will not hurt themselves and others.

 

1020 Carbon Steel only.

 

 

 

1) The mix ratio is 5 lb lye (sodium hydroxide) to 2 1/2 lb ammonium

nitrate (fertilizer), to 1 gallon water.

 

 

2) Lye and garden store fertilizer (33% with stuff, but

that's what most all of it is) are good enough.. Make sure to not use

tap water. Buy bottled water.

 

 

3) Mix out doors as lots (and I mean LOTS) of ammonia gas evolves and

will rot your lungs out if you sniff it. Were goggles as this stuff

foams and bubbles like mad. Very violent exothermic reaction. Mix in a

iron pail (not galvanized). Once mixed and operating the bath, there

is no off gassing, put the vapors are corrosive so don't do it in your

shop. Use plenty of ventilation.

 

 

4) Bath operates at 285 to 295 degree F.

Takes 15 to 45 min. depending on the steel and how dense a film you

want.

5) After you are done, take parts out, rinse in clean water, dry and

oil. You are ready to go. If you don't like the depth of color after

its dry,(but before you oil it) just put it back in the bath an cook

it some more.

 

6. Deeper Blue- add some manganese to the mix and shorten the bath time.

 

7. Please don't attempt mixing over 1 gallon at a time mix as stated is very exothermic(ie hot).

 

This mix will achieve a real long lasting Gun Blue (unable to scatch) not the rub on blue sold at Walmart. Yes it is Caustic and can be harmful if you do something foolish. Be smart and don't argue the danger of this process. As stated I know its dangerous and corrosive please don't argue the point. Just don't do it if you don't know what your doing.

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  • 4 months later...
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[quote name='manbearpig' post='1853310' date='Jul 30 2009, 11:07 AM'][quote name='clubbreaker' post='1848651' date='Jul 28 2009, 11:32 AM']i have an odyssey white hot...would it be possible to tape off the insert and then do one of the "wipe" refinishes>[/quote]

What he said. Or is the insert removable prior?
[/quote]

Me three! I'd like to change the color of my white hot tour... :D

Is it at all possible???

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[quote name='TigerWoodsFan14' post='1972938' date='Sep 26 2009, 07:45 AM']^^ How did you strip the Pro Platinum. I am thinking of doing this refinish to my Pro Platinum Mid Slant.[/quote]
Take it to a local metal shop. It's not something you can easily do yourself. Your local shop should do it for cheap.

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  • 1 month later...

[quote name='WJohnson' post='734704' date='Sep 27 2007, 11:17 PM']Real Gun Blueing - AKA Hot Blueing-

Notice please only perform this operation if appropriate facilities and training are recieved. Or if your a capable mature adult who will not hurt themselves and others.

1020 Carbon Steel only.



1) The mix ratio is 5 lb lye (sodium hydroxide) to 2 1/2 lb ammonium
nitrate (fertilizer), to 1 gallon water.


2) Lye and garden store fertilizer (33% with stuff, but
that's what most all of it is) are good enough.. Make sure to not use
tap water. Buy bottled water.


3) Mix out doors as lots (and I mean LOTS) of ammonia gas evolves and
will rot your lungs out if you sniff it. Were goggles as this stuff
foams and bubbles like mad. Very violent exothermic reaction. Mix in a
iron pail (not galvanized). Once mixed and operating the bath, there
is no off gassing, put the vapors are corrosive so don't do it in your
shop. Use plenty of ventilation.


4) Bath operates at 285 to 295 degree F.
Takes 15 to 45 min. depending on the steel and how dense a film you
want.
5) After you are done, take parts out, rinse in clean water, dry and
oil. You are ready to go. If you don't like the depth of color after
its dry,(but before you oil it) just put it back in the bath an cook
it some more.

6. Deeper Blue- add some manganese to the mix and shorten the bath time.

7. Please don't attempt mixing over 1 gallon at a time mix as stated is very exothermic(ie hot).

This mix will achieve a real long lasting Gun Blue (unable to scatch) not the rub on blue sold at Walmart. Yes it is Caustic and can be harmful if you do something foolish. Be smart and don't argue the danger of this process. As stated I know its dangerous and corrosive please don't argue the point. Just don't do it if you don't know what your doing.[/quote]

This is all great information, thanks for posting.

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