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Swing weight factors in relation to parts


joey3108

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49 minutes ago, quizzylish said:

It's been calibrated to expect a 50 gram grip on the one end of the balance point and then you are really measuring headweight and length away from the fulcrum, this is why the reading will be false when you use it with a heavier or lighter grip? 

 

Close - but not exactly.   It's not really a calibration issue.  The letter/number system is somewhat arbitrary - and so is the 50 gm grip weight value.  It's really that to work as intended, the system assumes that the grip weight wont change.  Normalizing to a const grip weight (e.g. 50 gm) is one way to deal with that problem - but not the only way - and maybe not even the best (although it does seem to work for a majority of individuals - just not everyone.  

 

Changing grip weight certainly can effect the heft feel of the club - if nothing else it changes the total static weight of the club.   All this really means is that the swing weight scale and concept is not designed to handle that kind of change so really shouldn't be used to tell you what you need to do to compensate for it.  Hence the best solution is to go back to the range and figure it out by feel.

 

 

49 minutes ago, quizzylish said:

   I am confused though about the part at the end about not needing to adjust?  When you say fit the swingweight, you mean with feel and lead tape on the range, not on the scale, correct?

 

Correct.  Then, after that you can go to the scale, measure the value, then reuse that value for other irons you want to match that have (or will be built) with the same grip.   

 

As long as you are consistent with grip weight between when you fit for head weight and find the best fit swing weight value (on the range) and when you build the clubs you want to match that test club - there is no need to adjust.

 

 

49 minutes ago, quizzylish said:

Do you have any insight on what I'll need to do with the 3 iron built to 4 iron length and loft?

 

Since using a different iron head is really all about head weight and playing length - the swing weight scale is suited to helping you with that particular problem.   But as a ball park - you'll need the 3i head weight to be about 7 gm lighter than the 5i head weight if you want to play it at 4i length.   When generally means adding 7 gm more than if you were to play that head at 3i length.

 

Edited by Stuart_G
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43 minutes ago, Stuart_G said:

 

Close - but not exactly.   It's not really a calibration issue.  The letter/number system is somewhat arbitrary - and so is the 50 gm grip weight value.  It's really that to work as intended, the system assumes that the grip weight wont change.  Normalizing to a const grip weight (e.g. 50 gm) is one way to deal with that problem - but not the only way - and maybe not even the best (although it does seem to work for a majority of individuals - just not everyone.  

 

Changing grip weight certainly can effect the heft feel of the club - if nothing else it changes the total static weight of the club.   All this really means is that the swing weight scale and concept is not designed to handle that kind of change so really shouldn't be used to tell you what you need to do to compensate for it.  Hence the best solution is to go back to the range and figure it out by feel.

 

 

 

Correct.  Then, after that you can go to the scale, measure the value, then reuse that value for other irons you want to match that have (or will be built) with the same grip.   

 

As long as you are consistent with grip weight between when you fit for head weight and find the best fit swing weight value (on the range) and when you build the clubs you want to match that test club - there is no need to adjust.

 

 

 

Since using a different iron head is really all about head weight and playing length - the swing weight scale is suited to helping you with that particular problem.   But as a ball park - you'll need the 3i head weight to be about 7 gm lighter than the 5i head weight if you want to play it at 4i length.   When generally means adding 7 gm more than if you were to play that head at 3i length.

 

I thought when golfworks makes the scale, I thought they calibrate it to what they expect a D0 club should be and then set the sticker for measurement according to that "known value" given that no two scales may measure the same until you "test" it and then set the sticker.  But I think i get it now, sort of, is this why you, or Howard, were saying don't get hung up on building to D3, for example, because that is an arbitrary number.  You have to fit for feel and then put it on your scale to see what your number is.  Then you can build the rest of your set to that number or progress up or down from there if you like a progression of swingweight.   

 

However, shouldn't that just be universal across the board?.   D2 is the same for Ping as it is for Titleist.   Let's say I like D2 for 4 irons and progress to D4 for PW.   Will that now be what I prefer and then can order or build from now on?  As long as I use the same swingweight device and build before testing?   It scares me a little to ever order a set built from Srixon or Titleist because how can I request something to be built without testing it to see if it is what I prefer or should this not change from manufacturer to manufacturer.  Right now I have a set of Srixon's I like from a swingweight perspective,  If I measure the set for swingweight, can I just match that swingweight for the build on my Miuras and then from now on or is the swingweight number on the scale going to be different from set to set based on feel and what the number measures at?  I'm really in the weeds now!!!! 

Edited by quizzylish

Driver: Ping G410 LST, 9 degree, VA Composites Raijin Black 65 X

3 Wood: Sim Tour Issue, 14.5 degree, VA Composites Synystr 75 X

Utility: Ping iCrossover 3 iron, GD 95X 

Irons: Srixon ZX5/ZX7 Combo, TT X100

Wedges: Vokey 54/58, S300

Putter:  Lajosi, Bellum Winnmore, or Scotty 5.5......We'll see who wins!! 

Ball: Titleist ProV1

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42 minutes ago, quizzylish said:

I thought when golfworks makes the scale, I thought they calibrate it to what they expect a D0 club should be and then set the sticker for measurement according to that "known value" given that no two scales may measure the same until you "test" it and then set the sticker.  But I think i get it now, sort of, is this why you, or Howard, were saying don't get hung up on building to D3, for example, because that is an arbitrary number.  You have to fit for feel and then put it on your scale to see what your number is.  Then you can build the rest of your set to that number or progress up or down from there if you like a progression of swingweight.   

 

Pretty much.

 

42 minutes ago, quizzylish said:

However, shouldn't that just be universal across the board?.   D2 is the same for Ping as it is for Titleist. 

 

The swing weight values are defined (and standardized) based on the moment required to balance the club.   In that respect they are universal values and if you should get the same value if the same method of measuring is used.  

 

But because of the controversy associate (mostly) with grip weight - different companies might deal with that problem differently.  e.g. If you request a specific swing weight from one company - they might build that to D2 with the assumption that it will be D2 with 50 gm grip - regardless of what grip you actually ordered with the club.  A different company might give you D2 with the specific grip you ordered.   There can also be variations on how much is assumed the grip will add to the playing length.

 

Some of those assumptions might be required due to the build process in the factory.  e.g. most likely weigh and figure out tip weights after the shafts are cut to length but before the grip is installed.   Go look at some youtube vids of the factory build process (which is usually very different from the tour van process so make sure it's a factory video and not a tour van video).

 

And no, I don't the specifics of how each company deals with this issue.

 

44 minutes ago, quizzylish said:

Let's say I like D2 for 4 irons and progress to D4 for PW.   Will that now be what I prefer and then can order or build from now on?  As long as I use the same swingweight device and build before testing? 

 

The problem is not that the values are not universal, it's that the same value does not necessarily mean the same feel - based on what might have changed.

 

So if you say, "I like D2" - what you're really saying is that you like D2 when the shaft weight is whatever it was and the grip weight was whatever it was for the test club you used to find out you liked that value.

 

So if for whatever reason you want to try a different shaft weight or a different grip weight,  that means D2 may not give you the desired feel.  Hence the recommendation to go back to the range to find a new value.

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58 minutes ago, Stuart_G said:

 

 

So if you say, "I like D2" - what you're really saying is that you like D2 when the shaft weight is whatever it was and the grip weight was whatever it was for the test club you used to find out you liked that value.

 

So if for whatever reason you want to try a different shaft weight or a different grip weight,  that means D2 may not give you the desired feel.  Hence the recommendation to go back to the range to find a new value.

Right, I think I have a good grasp now.  Thank you for all your time and proficient knowledge.  I really appreciate it.  

Edited by quizzylish
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Driver: Ping G410 LST, 9 degree, VA Composites Raijin Black 65 X

3 Wood: Sim Tour Issue, 14.5 degree, VA Composites Synystr 75 X

Utility: Ping iCrossover 3 iron, GD 95X 

Irons: Srixon ZX5/ZX7 Combo, TT X100

Wedges: Vokey 54/58, S300

Putter:  Lajosi, Bellum Winnmore, or Scotty 5.5......We'll see who wins!! 

Ball: Titleist ProV1

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
On 9/18/2023 at 9:47 PM, raspymcnasty said:

So is the best way to figure it out is to use lead tape and just mess with it

Keeping in mind that, "This (really!) is the way," @Howard_Jones, you've mentioned a method where we make a graph, and draw a line between biggest and smallest clubs' swingweights.  With the swingweight you want being on that line.  Sounds awesome.  I want to do that.  But...

 

What determines the X-axis?  (With swingweight readings on the Y-axis.)  Is it ordinal?  I.e., each club of the 13 non-putters has a point on the X-axis?  Or is it by length of club?  Or some other means?

 

Thanks, as always.  And write a book already; I'd buy it.

Edited by Jayjay_theweim_guy
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4 hours ago, Jayjay_theweim_guy said:

Keeping in mind that, "This (really!) is the way," @Howard_Jones, you've mentioned a method where we make a graph, and draw a line between biggest and smallest clubs' swingweights.  With the swingweight you want being on that line.  Sounds awesome.  I want to do that.  But...

 

What determines the X-axis?  (With swingweight readings on the Y-axis.)  Is it ordinal?  I.e., each club of the 13 non-putters has a point on the X-axis?  Or is it by length of club?  Or some other means?

 

Thanks, as always.  And write a book already; I'd buy it.


 

We DONT do more than one group of clubs at the time, so woods has NOTHING to do with irons, its 2 different groups of clubs,

Build and tune up the longest and shortest in each group, measure their specs, draw the slope between them and build the others to those specs you find.

Do that for play Length, Total wgt and SW value. (un-gripped)

Use the same grip for all clubs in each group, but measure grip wgt, and use tolerances on grip wgt to even out total wgt slope.

Edited by Howard_Jones
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DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Question about building an older 6 iron to play like a modern 7 iron.  For context, I'm building a mixed set of MP-60s and MP-67s with DG X100 shafts, so the 31* 6 iron would be bent to 34* to play at a modern 7 iron length.  I'm worried I'd need to add a ton of weight to the head to get it to SW where I'd like it.  I prefer to play my irons 0.5" shorter than standard already, and I typically prefer a heavier (D3-4) SW, so I'd already potentially need to add weight to the head if I was building the club at my preferred 6 iron length, let alone building the lighter 6 iron to play like a 7 iron.

 

I guess where I'm stuck is shafting.  What are the potential SW implications for:

  • A taper tip 6 iron shaft in a 257 gram 6 iron head, but at a 7 iron length (36.5" in this case).
  • A taper tip 7 iron shaft in a 257 gram 6 iron head, at the same length (36.5").

I'm also wondering about soft/hard stepping by mixing heads and shafts in this way.  Any implications that I should be worried about?

 

I'd love the flow of a set with the 3 iron playing at 22* (like a modern 4 iron) and the PW playing at 50* (like a modern GW).  It would simplify the wedge set up, and the idea of reduced offset and increased bounce is attractive as well.

 

But I'd like to avoid lead-taping these to maintain the aesthetics of the set, and I'm not sure I want to add more than 10g of tip weight the hosel.  If it's too much of a hassle, I'll just build the set up as it was originally intended.

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16 hours ago, Poor Mans Ty Webb said:

I guess where I'm stuck is shafting.  What are the potential SW implications for:

  • A taper tip 6 iron shaft in a 257 gram 6 iron head, but at a 7 iron length (36.5" in this case).
  • A taper tip 7 iron shaft in a 257 gram 6 iron head, at the same length (36.5").

 

Obviously the shaft choice will make a difference to the SW but generally:

 

257 gm is actually already light for a normal 6i head (- 261 is more typical) - much less a 7i head (typically 268 gm).  So yes, you are looking at having to add a lot of weight to get your swing weight targets.  A 36.5" playing length (typical a "standard" 8i length) generally takes a ~275 gm head weight to get around D2.   Close 280 gm to get D4.   That's going to be tough to add 20 gm.

 

Unless you want to intentionally tweak the shaft stiffness by stepping pick the shaft that matches the playing length and final head weight - not the number or loft.  So in the above example, to get the shaft to play as designed, you'd use the 8 iron shaft - since the club is at the "standard" 8i length and head weight.

 

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Allow me to add a little bit of annoyance.

May be it’s been mentioned before. I dunno, if so, please ignore lol

 

IOMIC Sticky grips. Darn thing has a weird cap at the end of the grip, and for irons for me, at least, even if you push the grip all the way down nice and tight, that end cap sort of stick out about ¼” on top of the shaft end -

so the equivalent standard grip, will feel sort of longer and, because it is, when you put it on the swing weight scale, because it has that bit sticking out, it’ll measure it heavier in swing weight than it actually is LOL 

so the same 50gram grip when compared to, say, Tour Velvet standard exactly 50 grams lets say when you measure it precisely, should be the same, but because the Iomic sticks out a bit it won’t measure the same on the scale lol, but when you swing it it feels the same, as long as you don’t grip it all the way at the end lol

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

I am very late in this thread, but I would like to post here since this is a relevant thread.

 

Recently I trimmed off 1/8" from my S300U 3 wood and 4 wood.  I think I made a mistake because I did it without regard to how it would affect swing weight.  The trimming was cosmetic because I wanted the clubs to be exactly 42" and 41.5", respectively.  However, the clubs were both D2 swing weights, and now they swingweight to about D 0.5.  I fear that I may have killed those clubs.  Next time  I will take them to the course I will see how they play.  The opening thread stated that 1/2" of shaft equals to 3 swingweight points, but in my case 1.5 points.

 

It was just a tiny adjustment, and I fear that I really screwed up.

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19 hours ago, EmperorPenguin said:

I am very late in this thread, but I would like to post here since this is a relevant thread.

 

Recently I trimmed off 1/8" from my S300U 3 wood and 4 wood.  I think I made a mistake because I did it without regard to how it would affect swing weight.  The trimming was cosmetic because I wanted the clubs to be exactly 42" and 41.5", respectively.  However, the clubs were both D2 swing weights, and now they swingweight to about D 0.5.  I fear that I may have killed those clubs.  Next time  I will take them to the course I will see how they play.  The opening thread stated that 1/2" of shaft equals to 3 swingweight points, but in my case 1.5 points.

 

It was just a tiny adjustment, and I fear that I really screwed up.

 

IF a playing length change of 1/8" changed the swing weight value by 1.5 sw pts, then something else changed as well.   e.g. Grip cap size, grip weight, different scales used, or some issue in either the measurement of the original sw value or the value after

 

Regardless it's not the end of the world.   If it does cause a problem, it's pretty trivial to fix with some lead tape.  Just bring it to the course (or range) with you when you test them out and add a little at a time to dial in the feel.

 

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On 12/9/2023 at 7:48 AM, EmperorPenguin said:

It was just a tiny adjustment, and I fear that I really screwed up.


In addition to what Stuart said above, what exactly are you fearing here? This ideally is why threads like this (and this subforum) exist is to help people *not* be afraid of what is objectively a very small and trivial thing. 

1) You haven't "screwed up" or "killed" anything, that is an unnecessarily extreme reaction here. 
2) Swingweight is a somewhat arbitrary measurement concocted by a club builder (Robert Adams) nearly 100 years ago via some simple trial and error to create an approximation of MOI matching. A quote from Tutleman's website:
 

Quote

After much experimenting, Adams concluded that a fulcrum 14" from the butt seemed to give the "best" match, in a subjective sense, for the pros he worked for. Why 14"? Did that correspond to some sort of "pivot point" in the golfer's swing? No, it was just a number that seemed to work; it yielded a set of clubs that Adams' clients felt were well matched.


This is all to say there is nothing sacred or "screwup-able" about this system. It's a basic setup that gives basic output based on things that generally seemed to "feel good" in 1930. This is nothing to get so invested in as to think you've ruined anything here, it's all arbitrary. 
3) You could very easily undo what you did with a small steel extension or even just gluing two coins to end of the shaft. Pros back in the day did all sorts of versions of this. Lead tape under the grip, stacks of coins, wooden dowels filled with lead.....all to manipulate feel and swingweight. 
4) All that ever matters is how the club feels to *you*. If the clubs felt right to you before then all you need is a tiny bit of extra head weight to get that "back" after the minor shortening you did. If you were just thinking "they are D2 therefore they are correct" then don't, this pedestalizing of an arbitrary measurement f**** up too many people who think these is something "correct" about a measurement that literally only exists as a standard because people expect it to be. 10 different 7-irons can measure "D2" and ALL feel completely different due to variations in either shaft weight, grip weight, playing length, even lie angle. 

As you said, go hit the clubs to see how they feel, but don't do so expecting something terrible to happen. You literally *only* made the clubs a tiny bit shorter and thus a *tiny* bit lighter. That could literally be *better* for you overall, so don't mess that up by thinking "yeah i'm hitting these well but they aren't D2 anymore so something is wrong". 

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@EmperorPenguin I don't mean to pile on because the guys already gave great feedback, but just wanted to add another perspective:  Choking down on the grip.  That's somewhat similar to cutting shorter - as if sliding the grip butt past the cradle on a swingweight scale.

 

Looking at one of my 5 woods at D2, and using the SW Calculator+, choking down 1/8" reduces effective swingweight by about 1 point (D1).  Choking down 1/2" reduces it by almost 4 points (C8).  Choking down 1" reduces almost 8 points (C4)...

 

No one really worries about choking down a little because they're "screwing up" their effective swingweight.  They could be choking down for control or accuracy, while unknowingly swinging the club effectively at C4.  It might also be normal to have a variance in gripping the club each time +/- 1/16", varying SW half a point or so.  So again feel is the real deal, not necessarily a sacred swingweight number.  Hope that eases the mind a little at least. 

 

As far as getting a club to a certain length, well that's another fun subject, and depends who you ask and how they measure and how you measure yourself, as I'm sure you know!

 

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  • 1 month later...
14 hours ago, tcraig1226 said:

Quick sanity check -- I have a Stealth 2+, and the shaft I use is 1" shorter than the stock TM shaft. To get the swing weight back up to stock, I'd need to increase the head weight by ~12 grams, correct? 

 

No.   The amount of weight per swing weight point varies with length - it's not a constant 2 gm per swing weight for all lengths.   With a driver, it's more like 1.6 gm per sw pt.   

 

But getting back to the stock value is not the same as getting back to the same head weight feel - so why would you want to blindly go back to the stock value?    Forget the swing weight value and just go to the range with some lead tape.  Adjust by feel, not by swing weight value.

 

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On 2/6/2024 at 5:22 AM, Stuart_G said:

 

No.   The amount of weight per swing weight point varies with length - it's not a constant 2 gm per swing weight for all lengths.   With a driver, it's more like 1.6 gm per sw pt.   

 

But getting back to the stock value is not the same as getting back to the same head weight feel - so why would you want to blindly go back to the stock value?    Forget the swing weight value and just go to the range with some lead tape.  Adjust by feel, not by swing weight value.

 

Ah ok, thanks for letting me know! I'd want to go blindly back to the stock value because I liked it, and in my brain getting to the same swing weight would feel the same -- clearly I have more to learn! Good to know that isn't the case, thanks for the heads up. 

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44 minutes ago, tcraig1226 said:

Ah ok, thanks for letting me know! I'd want to go blindly back to the stock value because I liked it, and in my brain getting to the same swing weight would feel the same -- clearly I have more to learn! Good to know that isn't the case, thanks for the heads up. 

 

No worries.  It's a very common misconception about swing weight.    The system has it's uses but it also has some significant limitations.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hey guys. I’ve got a question I was hoping you could help me out with. 
 

long story short: was fitted for T150 and I’ve been recommended to use DG x7 132g shafts. I had my irons out for sale and was offered trade for a set of t150. The T150 in trade has 120g shafts and I’ll be using the x7 132g shafts + 0.5” extra length. 
 

will the swing weight be completely ruined if I just swap out the shafts or will I have to pay for them to be weight adjusted ( can they be fixed at all tho? ) they charge like $25 per club to fix the swing weight and I don’t want to be hustled if it’s unnecessary. 
 

according to info from first post the swing weight should be around D6 after changing shafts and the extra length. I’m 194cm and 112 kg, quite athletic but mostly lifting.. my old set was butchered as I paid for swing weight adjustment but they didn’t do anything to fix it and it’s apparently somewhere in E territory.  


should I just pay the double and get everything sorted out from Titleist factory right away?.. 

 

Thank you in advance! 

Edited by WillieGnarls
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19 hours ago, WillieGnarls said:

Hey guys. I’ve got a question I was hoping you could help me out with. 
 

long story short: was fitted for T150 and I’ve been recommended to use DG x7 132g shafts. I had my irons out for sale and was offered trade for a set of t150. The T150 in trade has 120g shafts and I’ll be using the x7 132g shafts + 0.5” extra length. 
 

will the swing weight be completely ruined if I just swap out the shafts or will I have to pay for them to be weight adjusted ( can they be fixed at all tho? ) they charge like $25 per club to fix the swing weight and I don’t want to be hustled if it’s unnecessary. 
 

according to info from first post the swing weight should be around D6 after changing shafts and the extra length. I’m 194cm and 112 kg, quite athletic but mostly lifting.. my old set was butchered as I paid for swing weight adjustment but they didn’t do anything to fix it and it’s apparently somewhere in E territory.  


should I just pay the double and get everything sorted out from Titleist factory right away?.. 

 

Thank you in advance! 

What swingweight do you want these t150 with x7 at 0.5 inches to be at?

 

the x7’s are a heavy tipped shaft and will swing weight a point or two higher than a standard x100 at stock length.   I think titleist has standard heads, and light weight heads  for over length builds as there method of achieve swing weight. This means there aren’t easy means of lowering a head-weight without drilling out the hosels (vs an oem like taylormade that uses a lightweight head, and a hosel weight to adjust for builds.).  
 

I suspect that unless the t150 heads you are trading for are the lightweight version you will have trouble swingweighting those heads with 0.5 over x7’s under d6-8.

 

 

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2 hours ago, Pnwpingi210 said:

What swingweight do you want these t150 with x7 at 0.5 inches to be at?

 

the x7’s are a heavy tipped shaft and will swing weight a point or two higher than a standard x100 at stock length.   I think titleist has standard heads, and light weight heads  for over length builds as there method of achieve swing weight. This means there aren’t easy means of lowering a head-weight without drilling out the hosels (vs an oem like taylormade that uses a lightweight head, and a hosel weight to adjust for builds.).  
 

I suspect that unless the t150 heads you are trading for are the lightweight version you will have trouble swingweighting those heads with 0.5 over x7’s under d6-8.

 

 

Thank you so much. Greatly appreciate your insight. I was thinking around d6 as well. 
 

He told me current setup was about d1-d2 with project x lz 120g shafts. So according to post it should be:

shaft ~ 1 swing weight and a bit more. 
0.5” - 3 swing weight points

6 gram extra on grip.. ~ 1 more point. 
 

So lets add one more in total because of extra on shaft and grip. Should come out as d6-d7 as you are saying! 
 

I would prefer it they were standard weight I guess. I’ve been playing my current setup at mid E so it should feel a lot lighter tho. 

Edited by WillieGnarls
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1 minute ago, WillieGnarls said:

Thank you so much. Greatly appreciate your insight. I was thinking around d6 as well. 
 

He told me current setup was about d1-d2 with project x lz 120g shafts. So according to post it should be:

shaft ~ 1 swing weight and a bit more. 
0.5” - 3 swing weight points

6 gram extra on grip.. ~ 1 more point. 
 

So lets add one more in total because of extra on shaft and grip. Should come out as d6-d7 as you are saying! 

Got it.  So if you are okay with d6+ then you can probably pickup the trade set and have just about any shop swap in the the x7’s.  If you want to play them closer  then d5 or less then I would have pay the extra and order a new set from titlest.

 

I played the x7 for a year.   for me, they always played a little heavier than they swing weighted.  D4 with a max of d5 was as heavy as was able go and not have low point problems in the swing.  For reference I’m of similar height and weight metrics and swing a 7 iron around 95 on course.

 

you mentioned you were recommended these shafts.  Have you been able to test them in a demo club?

 

 

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1 minute ago, Pnwpingi210 said:

Got it.  So if you are okay with d6+ then you can probably pickup the trade set and have just about any shop swap in the the x7’s.  If you want to play them closer  then d5 or less then I would have pay the extra and order a new set from titlest.

 

I played the x7 for a year.   for me, they always played a little heavier than they swing weighted.  D4 with a max of d5 was as heavy as was able go and not have low point problems in the swing.  For reference I’m of similar height and weight metrics and swing a 7 iron around 95 on course.

 

you mentioned you were recommended these shafts.  Have you been able to test them in a demo club?

 

 

I was on a titleist fitting event just a few days ago and was recommended the x7 and I was playing the x100 before. I’ve scheduled another appointment on Wednesday but for 2 hours, so we’ve got time to really dial in what shaft as well as wedges. I will discuss with the fitter and get back to the thread to see what comes of it. My buddy is playing the LZ X-stiff and is happy with them. 
 

we tried some 120-125g shafts but it messed up my tempo.. will get back asap 🙂much appreciate all the help!

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14 hours ago, GBGolfingtons said:

If I add a putter grip that’s 8 grams heavier than my previous one, is it as simple as adding 8 grams to the head to bring the swing weight to what it was. 
 

putter is 35.5

 

thanks (and sorry for what is a newbie question!)

 

Swing weight was developed for full swing clubs - not putters.  It was also never intended to help manage grip weight changes even for full swing clubs.  So in this case, the swing weight scale and system is last tool you should be using to help you out.  But even if you did want to use a swing weight scale anyways - it's not even close to that simple.

 

Just get some lead tape and go out to the putting green.  It shouldn't take long to figure out what (if anything) you might need to add to the head.  Personally, I wouldn't be surprised if you didn't need to do anything.   For putters, 8 gm is pretty small variation when it comes to grip weight.

Edited by Stuart_G
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41 minutes ago, Veebee3 said:

Dumb question here but should I be measuring swingweight with or without my shotscope club tags? They are only 4 grams but change the swingweight reading by almost 1 point on some clubs so not sure if they are “tricking” the scale or if their impact is real. 

 

If you fit the club for the target swing weight with it on - and put it on the scale to get the target swing weight value with it on - then you build with it included.

 

If you didn't, then don't.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 7/27/2006 at 1:59 PM, joey3108 said:

Remember, this is just a ball park figure for normal most case.

 

Some shaft have tip or butt weight balance point that can not be applied on this rules.

 

1/2" = 3 swing weight points

 

2 gr club head weight = 1 swing weight point

 

5 gr grip = 1 swing weight point

 

9 gr shaft weight differences = 1 swing weight point

 

4* flatter lie or more up right lie = increase or decrease 1 swing weight point

 

Joe

Hi Joe,

I'm going to be trimming a Speeder 661 Evo by 1-2 inches for installation into either a 3W or a 7W. I don't know what's going to happen regarding SW, so I wanted to be prepared with the correct tip weights. What should I buy? Thanks,

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2 hours ago, SeaIsland said:

I'm going to be trimming a Speeder 661 Evo by 1-2 inches for installation into either a 3W or a 7W.

That shaft only has a parallel tip section of 2.5”.  Shouldn’t be tipped more than 1” to leave 1.5” reinforced section of the tip.  Generally Fuji only recommends 0” tipping for 3W and 1.0” for 7W. 
 

Best to give them a call and confirm before you cut.  
 

If you build the 3W or 7W to stock lengths for the particular head, unlikely you’ll need to add any weight.   
 

Those ball park figures are for when you make the club shorter or longer than standard.  Not related to tipping.   
 

 

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