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Made a wager involving classic clubs - help me choose my weapons.

tnordtnord Members Posts: 2,319 ✭✭✭✭✭✭

Through the course of the ongoing equipment/distance debate, one of the guys I play with claimed that if I ever played with the old equipment I claimed to want to go back to, I'd wouldn't be calling for a golf ball rollback. That led to a wager, we're getting together this week to stake out the specifics. Here's the basic premise, and I'm hoping you guys can help me improve my odds of success.

  • I have to use equipment as it was available sometime around 1980, including persimmon woods.
  • Cannot use a 60 deg lob wedge. which is fine, highest loft I normally carry is a 58.
  • Titleist Tour 100 balls.
  • We have a mutual friend who has a rather large collection of equipment and is willing to donate for this challenge.

My biggest concern is getting handed a set of clubs for somebody that's 5'5'' when I'm 6'2''. Given that I normally play X100, and the TT DG shaft dates way back, I might be willing to buy a set of irons to build and put proper length S300s (or should I stick with X100s?) in. What about persimmons? Which ones should I be asking for and should I try to get one with an x100 as well? I've never hit a balata golf ball in my life, and I didn't pick up the game until about 10-11 years ago.

The reason I'm willing to go to all this trouble? The stakes are high enough for me to care a little bit, as I've been give 50:1 odds that I can't break 78 from the white tees with old equipment. The other party has also volunteered to fund the first $100 of drinks for anyone that attends to watch...so I don't want to lay an egg. I somewhat regularly play persimmons in the offseason, so that's not a new thing for me, but I've never hit a balata golf ball in my life. I'm expecting them to spin like **** so I'd want all equipment that doesn't spin? Smooth out and slow down my swing to control it better, which is why I was thinking S300 rather than X100?

So gearheads, which weapons should I choose?

TaylorMade 2017 M1 440 Speeder Evolution 757x
Titleist 917F3 13.5 Fuji Speeder Pro TS 84X
Mizuno MP4 3-P X100
SM7 50F 54M 58M S400
Bettinardi BB1
@protrajT
«1

Comments

  • b.heltsb.helts Members Posts: 2,926 ✭✭✭✭✭✭✭

    You’re in deep ****. lol

    First, the balata you’re going to use is probably going to suck. Those things don’t have an infinite shelf life.
    Second, if you’ve never hit a balata you’re in for a. A treat and b. A rough time.
    Third, if you’re using unfamiliar equipment that’s even worse.

    It does sound like fun though. So good luck.

  • tnordtnord Members Posts: 2,319 ✭✭✭✭✭✭

    the ball i understand will be different, but i was surprised to see that they were made all the way up to the year 2000. I play MP4s now which I understand will be better than an old wilson staff, but how different are blades really? I'm sure they'll have less bounce and a sharper leading edge, and probably a bit weaker lofts. the persimmon I quite enjoy playing in the offseason with whatever low compression ball I have sitting around.

    what happens to the balata after sitting around for 20 years?

    TaylorMade 2017 M1 440 Speeder Evolution 757x
    Titleist 917F3 13.5 Fuji Speeder Pro TS 84X
    Mizuno MP4 3-P X100
    SM7 50F 54M 58M S400
    Bettinardi BB1
    @protrajT
  • b.heltsb.helts Members Posts: 2,926 ✭✭✭✭✭✭✭

    The rubber bands that wrap around the small core dry out and get brittle. As you hit it they will likely start to degrade more. It’ll probably be mushy and go nowhere.
    If you hit it really solid with the lumber you might be ok. The irons as long as the lie angle is close might also be ok.

  • rwc356rwc356 Chicago, IllinoisMembers Posts: 347 ✭✭✭✭

    I grew up playing balata, persimmon and blades. You should have a fun match but I would be worried about the shelf life of the balata balls. My concern would be you will end up with pretty dead ball. If there is anyway you can negotiate for a modern soft golfball then it would be worth it. Be sure and keep us updated and best of luck!!

    Just an older guy with 7 or 8 clubs and a MacKenzie Walker bag
  • tnordtnord Members Posts: 2,319 ✭✭✭✭✭✭

    @b.helts said:
    The rubber bands that wrap around the small core dry out and get brittle. As you hit it they will likely start to degrade more. It’ll probably be mushy and go nowhere.
    If you hit it really solid with the lumber you might be ok. The irons as long as the lie angle is close might also be ok.

    Thanks...that makes sense with the old rubber bands breaking down. I didn't know that about the construction. If I HAVE to play the 20yr old golf ball then it would make sense to switch out a new ball every couple holes?

    I'm going to try to sell the idea that if the ball is from 2000 then I should be able to play other circa 2000 gear, meaning MP33s which I'd be willing to buy and build just for this.

    TaylorMade 2017 M1 440 Speeder Evolution 757x
    Titleist 917F3 13.5 Fuji Speeder Pro TS 84X
    Mizuno MP4 3-P X100
    SM7 50F 54M 58M S400
    Bettinardi BB1
    @protrajT
  • WoodHeadsWoodHeads Members Posts: 120 ✭✭✭
    edited Aug 18, 2019 8:42pm #7

    Wouldn't Titleist 962 DCI black irons meet the 80s requirement? The main part of the discussion will actually impact driver and fairway heads. I think, in the 80s, metal woods were pretty small, with small sweet spots. I believe TaylorMade released a metal wood in 1979, so that might be something to consider.

    If this wager stemmed from you complaining that modern balls are too easy to hit (ala Pentas and BX), wouldn't it make more sense to have the choice of older equipment using modern balls, versus newer equipment using older balls?

    I think club tech outweighs ball tech, so long as you're using something even as recent as surlyn 3 piece balls. After that tech advance, maybe balls and design start to outweigh club tech advances.

  • WoodHeadsWoodHeads Members Posts: 120 ✭✭✭
    edited Aug 18, 2019 8:46pm #8

    Wow. I was way off. DCI black came out in 1993.
    When did Karsten I come out?
    BTW, why use 100s instead of 90s? The swingweights might lower your club speed, so maybe use 90s.

  • deejaiddeejaid Members Posts: 634 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I would think to make the contest fair any clubs you use should be optimized for your swing meaning proper flex and lie and length for you. Playing ill fitting equipment isn’t going to prove anything other than you will play poorly with clubs that don’t fit, which is true with modern clubs or clubs from 1980.

    Now in the spirit of the wager I’d think that circa 1980 clubs means blades and persimmons. A set of Wilson FG17 irons with S300’s would be a good choice, although a set Ping Karsten l-lV with ZZ-Lites would be period correct and a game improvement club. A set of Cleveland Classic persimmon woods, again with S300, would be perfect for the time period and are excellent quality. A vintage Ping Anser would round out the bag. You aren’t going to want to go after a balata like a modern ball if you never played one before so a softer flex and more controlled swing will help. They do spin more but you want that spin to keep the ball airborne longer off the tee, you just don’t want sidespin which might leave you 2 fairways over.

    But, the performance of the ball will be a problem. 40 year old balata’s are not going to perform like when new so you are already handicapped by the deterioration of the ball. I’d use a Wilson Zip or Top-Flite Gamer Urethane as a modern replacement. Both are low compression balls and feel very soft off the face of a persimmon wood. Now they don’t spin or go out of round like a balata so that would help you.

    The bag....Stan Thompson persimmon woods, ‘58 Wilson Dynapowered irons, Ping Day putter.
  • MaximilianMaximilian Members Posts: 1,439 ✭✭✭✭✭✭

    This sounds like a great challenge! I wouldn’t be too worried about the clubs, but I’ll echo the others in that an old balata might be tricky.

    I think going to a slightly softer shaft is actually a pretty good idea. If nothing else, it will be a mental reminder that you shouldn’t swing as hard as you can. Accept the distance loss and live with it.

    This summer I’ve been playing a lot of hickory golf (seven club setup all from the 20’s that are obviously not fit for me) and as long as I keep the ball in play (which is a lot easier to do since I only swing about 75%) and make a few putts, I can actually score surprisingly well, but with a modern soft ball though. It has made me understand just how much I have been overthinking my modern gear through the years.

    The balata is going to spin, so just swing easy and keep it in play and under the wind. Three quarter swings with two clubs more is not a bad idea. That shot even with a two iron is not as difficult as some will have you believe. I’d also recommend that if you have a stock ball flight (draw or fade), use it all the time. Trying to hit it straight could potentially lead to a two way miss more severe than you are used to. If you happen to get some balatas that are in decent shape, you will probably enjoy them with your short game, but again you need to remember to swing smoothly with your wedges too.

    Good luck and keep us posted!

  • tnordtnord Members Posts: 2,319 ✭✭✭✭✭✭

    This stemmed from my position that the golf ball and/or other equipment needs to have stricter regulations to dial back performance. This particular gentleman is a big gambler, has deep pockets, but not really a great understanding of the issues with golf and modern equipment so he posed this challenge about a year ago. I said "no" because i'd never hit a persimmon or a balata. I played persimmon for a lot of last winter, and the odds are enough in my favor that I can place a minor wager with massive upside, and have some fun.

    I'm going to have to negotiate hard on the golf ball being unplayable right out of the box and try to get some low compression modern ball. I think playing a stock ball flight is a good idea. punchy draw off the tee and soft fade with irons, as I'll likely be approaching with less loft than usual. I'm sure I'll need my short game to win this one.

    TaylorMade 2017 M1 440 Speeder Evolution 757x
    Titleist 917F3 13.5 Fuji Speeder Pro TS 84X
    Mizuno MP4 3-P X100
    SM7 50F 54M 58M S400
    Bettinardi BB1
    @protrajT
  • WoodHeadsWoodHeads Members Posts: 120 ✭✭✭

    So, is he allowed to use whatever he wants? I still don't see how the wager supports either position. It seems like he should be using older equipment, while you use modern stuff.

  • tnordtnord Members Posts: 2,319 ✭✭✭✭✭✭

    the wager is whether or not I can break 78 with old gear, it's not a match.

    TaylorMade 2017 M1 440 Speeder Evolution 757x
    Titleist 917F3 13.5 Fuji Speeder Pro TS 84X
    Mizuno MP4 3-P X100
    SM7 50F 54M 58M S400
    Bettinardi BB1
    @protrajT
  • b.heltsb.helts Members Posts: 2,926 ✭✭✭✭✭✭✭

    How long is the course, what’s the rating and how good are you?

  • WoodHeadsWoodHeads Members Posts: 120 ✭✭✭

    Also, I still don't get it. I could understand such a wager if you claimed equipment didn't matter.

  • tnordtnord Members Posts: 2,319 ✭✭✭✭✭✭

    don't try to make sense of it in terms of proving who is right or wrong in the argument.....it doesn't. the course is about 6200 from the white tees, par 70, rated at 73 i think from there, 141 slope. i'm about a 0-1 index.

    TaylorMade 2017 M1 440 Speeder Evolution 757x
    Titleist 917F3 13.5 Fuji Speeder Pro TS 84X
    Mizuno MP4 3-P X100
    SM7 50F 54M 58M S400
    Bettinardi BB1
    @protrajT
  • b.heltsb.helts Members Posts: 2,926 ✭✭✭✭✭✭✭

    If you can get them to allow to use a modern ball you have a chance. I don’t think the chances are good with a 20 year old Tour 100. And not because of you, I just don’t think the ball will hold up or perform well at all.

  • WrigglesWriggles Members Posts: 3,264 ✭✭✭✭✭✭✭

    @deejaid said:
    I would think to make the contest fair any clubs you use should be optimized for your swing meaning proper flex and lie and length for you. Playing ill fitting equipment isn’t going to prove anything other than you will play poorly with clubs that don’t fit, which is true with modern clubs or clubs from 1980.

    Now in the spirit of the wager I’d think that circa 1980 clubs means blades and persimmons. A set of Wilson FG17 irons with S300’s would be a good choice, although a set Ping Karsten l-lV with ZZ-Lites would be period correct and a game improvement club. A set of Cleveland Classic persimmon woods, again with S300, would be perfect for the time period and are excellent quality. A vintage Ping Anser would round out the bag. You aren’t going to want to go after a balata like a modern ball if you never played one before so a softer flex and more controlled swing will help. They do spin more but you want that spin to keep the ball airborne longer off the tee, you just don’t want sidespin which might leave you 2 fairways over.

    But, the performance of the ball will be a problem. 40 year old balata’s are not going to perform like when new so you are already handicapped by the deterioration of the ball. I’d use a Wilson Zip or Top-Flite Gamer Urethane as a modern replacement. Both are low compression balls and feel very soft off the face of a persimmon wood. Now they don’t spin or go out of round like a balata so that would help you.

    The early Karstens play very well. I play a set of II's. The Clevelands are good woods. Balls, the Top Flites and similar were made back then. Not balata, but in the same era.
    OP, get in some practice with the old equipment, and win your challenge.

  • NRJyzrNRJyzr Allez Allez Allez Minnesota, USAMembers Posts: 6,605 ✭✭✭✭✭✭✭
    edited Aug 19, 2019 11:56am #19

    Provided someone can get their hands on well stored wound balls, the gap is fairly minimal, and really about spin; the age related performance drain is the only real issue with the ball. You can account for spin with a bit less loft, which may or may not be necessary.

    There are some persimmons out there with Precision 6.5 or 7.0 shafts that can work, if they'll let you use a Precision under the terms of the wager. Maybe ask if you can use an Eye2 driver? Only a couple years newer, and maybe you could find one with a KT shaft. If they insist on persimmon or you wish to stick with True Temper models, it's worth remembering the change in Dynamic wood shaft flex in the mid 90s (they were made softer in 94 or so). Depending on your tempo, you may be able to swing closer to normally with Dynamic S / DGS300 or S400 than you might expect. A few years ago when I was still at 110-111, I picked up a couple persimmons with Dynamic X; found them to be more beastly than I would have thought.

    In irons, you may not need to go to DGX, the Dynamic Stiff seems to play a bit stiffer than modern DGS300, based on my experience. Provided you don't find yourself a custom softstep job, which isn't likely. :)

    If you give yourself time to acclimate to the sticks, the gap isn't as large as you might think, except for the massive MOI change in driver. If I was able to drop my hdcp 3 shots over a summer of exclusive persimmon play, I would expect you as a 0-1 would have an easier time meeting this challenge.

    Edited to add: don't deloft the irons you play to meet modern loft specs. Play the old lofts. :)

    The Ever Changing Bag!

    Driver: Adams Fast 12 LS 9.5* set to 10.5*, Xcaliber T6+, TS, 44.25", D6
    3w:  Bridgestone J's Professional Weapon 14*, stock stiff, 42.5", D5
    1i:  Golden Ram Vibration Matched, DGS400
    3-PW:  Mizuno MP-37, DGS300
    GW:  Mizuno Pro 52*, DGS300
    SW:  Scratch 8620 58*, DGS400
    Putter: Cleveland Huntington Beach #1 35"
    Balls: in no particular order... Wilson Staff FG Tour, Duo Urethane/Professional, or 50 Elite, Srixon ZStar/ZStar XV, Snell MTB Black... will trot out Maxfli HT-100 or Elite 90 from time to time

    I've proven once again that anything over 44.5" or even 44.25" is a horrible fit for my tee game
  • No_Catchy_NicknameNo_Catchy_Nickname Kyushu,_JapanMembers Posts: 5,548 ✭✭✭✭✭✭✭

    Agree with NRJyzr on the shaft flex issue. Don't fret too much about finding something extra stiff. Worry more about finding a driver you can hit before you worry what the shaft label says.
    Also, when putting old sets together, I've found the biggest problem to be finding a good SW. My two favourites are the Wilson SW that is part of my FG-J8 set (same as FG-17s) and my RAM Camber Sole SW. I don't much like any off the SW in my Mac sets, and the Mizuno SW from that era are a bit shovel-like for me. As for Honma SW from the Eighties...well the one I've got would make a good frying pan.

    Driver: Ping G400 Tour 65S
    4w: TaylorMade R9 stock Fujikura Motore X flex
    7w TaylorMade V-steel, Quadra Fire Express RB 6SX
    Hybrid: RomaRo iBrid 23* Attas EZ 85S
    Irons (4i-PW): Wilson fg-62 S300 4/5-PW or MP4 Yoro Modus 125X 5-PW
    Wedges: Callaway MD2 T-grind combination of 52*, 56*, 58*, 60*
    Putter: Mac Jack Nicklaus Muirfield

    Old stuff: Tons of persimmon and older irons. 
  • tnordtnord Members Posts: 2,319 ✭✭✭✭✭✭

    Are you thinking they might not allow a Karsten because it's laminated rather than a block of persimmon? I doubt he'll be that picky about it.

    The Precision 6.5/7.0, is that of Project X/Rifle lineage? I didn't know the old TTDG was stiffer than the current stuff either. I don't have that quick of a tempo, so I'm sure old S300s will be just fine. When I've played persimmon in the offseason I actually haven't found it to be any less accurate than modern stuff. I crappy strike with a persimmon doesn't go anywhere and tends to get on the ground quicker. A crappy strike with modern stuff stays in the air forever and continues to wander offline.

    I think if I get time to practice with the new sticks I think I'll be fine, it's practicing with the golf ball that's the hard part. If I can regularly shoot around 72-75 from the whites, assuming I don't toss a bunch of balls into the native area off the tee I should be fine.

    TaylorMade 2017 M1 440 Speeder Evolution 757x
    Titleist 917F3 13.5 Fuji Speeder Pro TS 84X
    Mizuno MP4 3-P X100
    SM7 50F 54M 58M S400
    Bettinardi BB1
    @protrajT
  • NRJyzrNRJyzr Allez Allez Allez Minnesota, USAMembers Posts: 6,605 ✭✭✭✭✭✭✭
    edited Aug 19, 2019 1:26pm #22

    Precision shafts predate the Rifle shafts, they're a stepped model with a softer tip than Dynamic, and were in the vanguard of Frequency Matched shafts. My reason for questioning if they'd be allowed as they are a mid 80s product, wasn't sure how much a stickler for 1980 he/they is/are being.

    FWIW, Ram were an early adopter of Precision shaft usage. :)

    The Eye2 question is the same thing, it's a couple years later than the 1980 target date you mentioned in the first post. Didn't occur to me that laminates might not be allowed, since they were produced well before 1980.

    It's been said, but I'll repeat... the ball is the biggest wild card. It's not the performance of the ball, though, that will be the problem, if the ones you get are good and sound. It's the age related degradation that creates that wild card. Balls stored in a cool dry environment will age better than those stored in a shed or uninsulated garage. Wound balls by themselves were only marginally lesser performers than the multilayer balls that replaced them, when those wound balls were new (ball test data from that time were interesting). But "wound" became a Bad Word, and there you go.

    Durability is certainly better these days. So we've got that going for us, which is nice

    The Ever Changing Bag!

    Driver: Adams Fast 12 LS 9.5* set to 10.5*, Xcaliber T6+, TS, 44.25", D6
    3w:  Bridgestone J's Professional Weapon 14*, stock stiff, 42.5", D5
    1i:  Golden Ram Vibration Matched, DGS400
    3-PW:  Mizuno MP-37, DGS300
    GW:  Mizuno Pro 52*, DGS300
    SW:  Scratch 8620 58*, DGS400
    Putter: Cleveland Huntington Beach #1 35"
    Balls: in no particular order... Wilson Staff FG Tour, Duo Urethane/Professional, or 50 Elite, Srixon ZStar/ZStar XV, Snell MTB Black... will trot out Maxfli HT-100 or Elite 90 from time to time

    I've proven once again that anything over 44.5" or even 44.25" is a horrible fit for my tee game
  • stixmanstixman Hew to the line. Let the divots fall where they may. 1926 Golf I Members Posts: 1,842 ✭✭✭✭✭✭

    I have laminates made by Jack Steer's Blackpool business dated mid 1930s.

  • dcopp7dcopp7 Members Posts: 1,116 ✭✭✭✭✭✭

    Ping Karsten woods and irons would be like cheating...get em

    Cleveland Launcher 460 Titanium 10.5* driver

    Cobra MAX 16.5* 3 wood

    Cobra Bio Cell 19* hybrid

    Dynacraft Prophet CB flexface 5i-PW

    Acer XB 52* & 58* wedges

    OLD Northwestern heel shaft putter
  • BIG STUBIG STU Members Posts: 11,691 ✭✭✭✭✭✭✭

    @b.helts said:
    If you can get them to allow to use a modern ball you have a chance. I don’t think the chances are good with a 20 year old Tour 100. And not because of you, I just don’t think the ball will hold up or perform well at all.

    You are correct on that--- The other day I pulled a new pristine looking Spalding Dot from my stash---- I had checked it with my roundness gauge ( remember those?) it checked good. Hit it off the tee with my Power Bilt persimmon driver. It started off good and fell straight down about 150 yards out. HMMM-- rode up there and checked it out--- did not need the gauge I could see--- It went out of round from one hit. Remember I am not a gorilla any more I am 62 years old and swing about 100 to 105 range with a driver. I guess that ball was rotten to the core so to speak

    Driver--- Honma G1-X Stock R shaft
    FW Adams Tight Lies 16* Mitsu Diamana R
    Irons 3 thru PW KZG Teardrop ( 2009) Forged CB 5.5 Rifle Flighted
    SW Mizuno T-10 forged S-400
    LW Ping Zing 60* Stock
    Putter (for now) TM Rosa Daytona AGSI insert

  • LeoLeo99LeoLeo99 Members Posts: 4,335 ✭✭✭✭✭✭✭

    People broke 80 all the time back in 1980 with the equipment you're being tasked to play with. Fitting wasn't a big deal back then, either. At least not until Karsten and his colored dots gained popularity. I never played well with Balata balls. They did crazy stuff. i was more of a Dunlop Blue Dot or DT man.

    I remember taking a golf ball apart as a kid. We'd find them on the soccer field, rub the covers off on the asphalt parking lot and unwind what seemed about a mile of rubber band that was wound around a small ball in the center. Some of the small balls in the center had a liquid filling.

    Good luck. Maybe you could negotiate an easier course?

  • dpb5031dpb5031 Jupiter, FLMembers Posts: 5,471 ✭✭✭✭✭✭✭
    edited Aug 20, 2019 11:33pm #27

    Clubs are no big deal for a 0-1 hc. The ball could be an issue. Different for sure. Outdated in terms of shelf-life and performance (as they'd be expected to perform pre-1980) may be an issue.

    New for new, it shouldn't be a thing...

    Can I play? 😁

    USGA Index: ~1

    WITB:
    Ping G410 LST 9 degree - Tour AD IZ 6x
    Taylormade M2 Tour 15 Fujikura Pro TourSpec 73 
    Kasco K2K 33 - UST Axivcore 65 Tour Green 
    Callaway RazrX Tour 4h - Tour 95 shaft
    Ping i200 5-UW (2 flat) - Nippon Modus 105X
    Taylormade HiToe 54 (bent to 55 & 2 flat)
    Taylormade HiToe 64 (Bent to 62 & 2 flat)
    Palmer AP30R putter (circa 1960s)
    Taylormade TP5X Ball
  • mocokidmocokid Members Posts: 1,910 ✭✭✭✭✭✭

    @dpb5031 said:
    Clubs are no big deal for a 0-1 hc. The ball could be an issue. Different for sure. Outdated in terms of shelf-life and performance (as they'd be expected to perform pre-1980) may be an issue.

    New for new, it shouldn't be a thing...

    Can I play? 😁

    A 0-1 hcp sb able to hit the traditional irons, but going from the modern driver to the persimmon model is a BIG TIME difference. Not saying a low handicap can't hit persimmon but, when you miss the sweet spot, you lose whole lot of distance.

  • dpb5031dpb5031 Jupiter, FLMembers Posts: 5,471 ✭✭✭✭✭✭✭

    @mocokid said:

    @dpb5031 said:
    Clubs are no big deal for a 0-1 hc. The ball could be an issue. Different for sure. Outdated in terms of shelf-life and performance (as they'd be expected to perform pre-1980) may be an issue.

    New for new, it shouldn't be a thing...

    Can I play? 😁

    A 0-1 hcp sb able to hit the traditional irons, but going from the modern driver to the persimmon model is a BIG TIME difference. Not saying a low handicap can't hit persimmon but, when you miss the sweet spot, you lose whole lot of distance.

    Agreed! I've messed around with an old persimmon just for fun. The modern lower spin golf balls dont work too well with them, but I was still able to get produce some nice ball flights and similar distance to a modern 4 wood! Mishits drop off precipitously. The 3 an 5 wood persimmons weren't too bad at all. The extra loft helps.

    USGA Index: ~1

    WITB:
    Ping G410 LST 9 degree - Tour AD IZ 6x
    Taylormade M2 Tour 15 Fujikura Pro TourSpec 73 
    Kasco K2K 33 - UST Axivcore 65 Tour Green 
    Callaway RazrX Tour 4h - Tour 95 shaft
    Ping i200 5-UW (2 flat) - Nippon Modus 105X
    Taylormade HiToe 54 (bent to 55 & 2 flat)
    Taylormade HiToe 64 (Bent to 62 & 2 flat)
    Palmer AP30R putter (circa 1960s)
    Taylormade TP5X Ball
  • tnordtnord Members Posts: 2,319 ✭✭✭✭✭✭

    when I play persimmon in the offseason I can get it out there about the distance of my 3w. that's assuming I hit the right shot shape and get some roll.

    TaylorMade 2017 M1 440 Speeder Evolution 757x
    Titleist 917F3 13.5 Fuji Speeder Pro TS 84X
    Mizuno MP4 3-P X100
    SM7 50F 54M 58M S400
    Bettinardi BB1
    @protrajT
  • James the Hogan FanJames the Hogan Fan Members Posts: 684 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited Aug 22, 2019 6:29pm #31

    Seeing as the Titleist tour 100 wasn't made (to my knowledge) in 1980, why not cheat and use a Top Flite solid core (which they already had in the 70's) or a Durable Titleist (DT), still wound but with a stronger cover? I take it wound balata is the, ahem, core of the challenge?

    I found an 80's era top flite and it was only 5-10 yards behind a B330...

    Golfing in Finland!
    Wilson D300
    W/S Fybrid 3W
    W/S Fybrid 5W
    Hogan Apex 2003 (3-E)
    Mizuno 56
    Maxfli Revolution 60
    Macgregor Jackie Pung Putter #10

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