Drill Tiny Air Hole in Adapter Sleeve?

[Jagpilotohio]

Fill the adapter completely full of epoxy, then insert shaft.

 

I just twist the shaft when inserting and use a clip on it, never had a problem.

https://www.golfwork...-clip/p/gm1035/

 

Why do you want to fill the adapter with epoxy?

Its not needed, you loose control of weight, and the inside of the shaft tip gets filled up with epoxy, and thats no good..

 

We only need to add epoxy to the upper 1/3 of the adapter (3 dots in the top 1/3), and the full length of the tip (the insert part) as "stripes of epoxy"

Hold the head upside down, push the shaft to full insert and rotate it. Air will be able to evacuate between the stripes of epoxy on the tip (not only evacuate trough inside of the shaft who can be blocked when using a tip weight), so all we need is 0.35 to 0.5 grams of epoxy and there will be nothing inside the shaft tip, and hardly any epoxy to wipe off.

 

I don't but it would work to keep all air bubbles out of the glue.

 

Your logic is a bit flawed. Yes, it would prevent air bubbles but if there was no route to allow the air escape, there is not going to be any route for the excess epoxy to escape either. So instead of an air lock, you'd have a hydraulic lock with the epoxy instead and couldn't even insert the shaft into the adapter. At least with the air, you can compress it to get the shaft in there anyways.

 

; )

[I_HATE_SNOW]

Fill the adapter completely full of epoxy, then insert shaft.

 

I just twist the shaft when inserting and use a clip on it, never had a problem.

https://www.golfwork...-clip/p/gm1035/

 

Why do you want to fill the adapter with epoxy?

Its not needed, you loose control of weight, and the inside of the shaft tip gets filled up with epoxy, and thats no good..

 

We only need to add epoxy to the upper 1/3 of the adapter (3 dots in the top 1/3), and the full length of the tip (the insert part) as "stripes of epoxy"

Hold the head upside down, push the shaft to full insert and rotate it. Air will be able to evacuate between the stripes of epoxy on the tip (not only evacuate trough inside of the shaft who can be blocked when using a tip weight), so all we need is 0.35 to 0.5 grams of epoxy and there will be nothing inside the shaft tip, and hardly any epoxy to wipe off.

 

I don't but it would work to keep all air bubbles out of the glue.

 

Your logic is a bit flawed. Yes, it would prevent air bubbles but if there was no route to allow the air escape, there is not going to be any route for the excess epoxy to escape either. So instead of an air lock, you'd have a hydraulic lock with the epoxy instead and couldn't even insert the shaft into the adapter. At least with the air, you can compress it to get the shaft in there anyways.

Epoxy doesn't come out the hosel when you insert a shaft? How stiff of a glue are you using?

[Ri_Redneck]

That hole compromises the strength of the adapter.

 

That hole filled with cured epoxy is just as strong as the adapter itself.

 

BT

So could he drill 6 identical holes spaced around the adapter in the same fashion? You'd still stand by them all being just as strong as an unaltered adapter? How about 15 holes randomly drilled through the adapter? 25? The stress of the bolt being torqued down when changing shafts is what I'd be worried about.

 

I'm the farthest thing from an expert in club building. But isn't the adapter stressed when torquing down the bolt? The bottom half pulled toward the bolt and the upper half pulled up resisting going in the hosel any further?

 

I think I'm assuming the adapter's tensile strength would be compromised a little. Maybe not enough to fail. If it lasts a couple years, I'd call it a success.

 

I'm not condoning drilling multiple holes, just one. I fail to see the purpose of multiple holes.

 

BT

[Ri_Redneck]

That hole compromises the strength of the adapter.

 

That hole filled with cured epoxy is just as strong as the adapter itself.

 

BT

 

Wow,

 

Wow what?

 

Unless you apply heat to break it down, it is just as solid and anything else you epoxy, like those bonded hosels everyone seems to think are superior to adapters. There's more chance of the screw snapping or the bond failing on the graphite shaft than the adapter breaking.

 

Personally, I think the OP is silly for not just ordering the Rubber-Tungsten tip weights and using them.

 

BT

[Ri_Redneck]

That hole compromises the strength of the adapter.

 

That hole filled with cured epoxy is just as strong as the adapter itself.

 

BT

 

Incorrect. The tensile strength of aluminum is about 40,000 psi and epoxy is about 4,000 (for good epoxy, not run of the mill stuff). Not to mention a hole like that in a load bearing element is what's called a "stress concentration". I don't have information about the loads on an adapter during a swing/impact, so I don't know what the safety margin is on those parts, but since there are various ways to avoid an airlock during install of the adapter it doesn't make sense to tempt fate.

 

I agree, he shouldn't tempt fate. But he seems committed to trying. Regardless, clubheads have been held on shafts for quite some time with nothing more than the 2-part epoxy we are considering. The only time we see failures is from improper preparation of adhering surfaces. I have seen the same epoxy used to repair a wooden clubhead that had broken IN HALF. The club was used for several years by a young man who could swing in the 115 mph range. Not to mention all of the irons and wood heads with pinned shafts that were played for years. 2-part shafting epoxy has no problem handling the stresses caused by ANYONES golf swing! Even the LDA guys. Nothing but epoxy holding on those heads.

 

BT

[Ri_Redneck]

Ah I wish I had the photo but maybe 3 years ago someone I sold a shaft to on ebay, it had a titleist tip, sent me a photo after like a year of owning it where the actual adapter failed, the little nipple part where the threads went in completely snapped off from the bottom and left part of the shaft exposed.

 

Now granted that's the only time I had ever seen that, it seems like if this frankenexperiment was going to fail this would be the way it would fail.

 

That's a different section of the adapter. Much smaller on the end you're saying broke. Likely from playing it loose. Or over tightening. Would have to be able to move inside the clubhead to stress that tip from swinging. Once it's seated the clubs neck is supporting it fully.

 

Most also don't realize that the torque wrench is to keep users from stripping the threads and snapping the screws which happen to be the weakest points of the whole assembly. Main components I was concerned about when the adjustable drivers first came out. Also the main reason all the driver I use have the rotational locking mechanism at the top of the adapter and not the bottom.

 

BT

[ForTourUseOnly]

Every driver has a weight or hotmelt port that you can add weight to the head if needed. Not sure why you would need a tip weight in some sort of metal wood.

[Stuart_G]

Every driver has a weight or hotmelt port that you can add weight to the head if needed. Not sure why you would need a tip weight in some sort of metal wood.

 

Because they are a lot less expensive than the OEM weights and most don't have easy access to hot melt or just don't like to deal with the fact that it's a PITA to take out if too much gets put in.

[Stuart_G]

Epoxy doesn't come out the hosel when you insert a shaft? How stiff of a glue are you using?

 

Not when the conditions are ripe for an air-lock (otherwise, the air pressure would have pushed more epoxy out through that route).

[I_HATE_SNOW]

Epoxy doesn't come out the hosel when you insert a shaft? How stiff of a glue are you using?

 

Not when the conditions are ripe for an air-lock (otherwise, the air pressure would have pushed more epoxy out through that route).

Sorry for doubting you.

[wkuo3]

That hole compromises the strength of the adapter.

 

That hole filled with cured epoxy is just as strong as the adapter itself.

 

BT

 

Wow,

 

Wow what?

 

Unless you apply heat to break it down, it is just as solid and anything else you epoxy, like those bonded hosels everyone seems to think are superior to adapters. There's more chance of the screw snapping or the bond failing on the graphite shaft than the adapter breaking.

 

Personally, I think the OP is silly for not just ordering the Rubber-Tungsten tip weights and using them.

 

BT

 

Not being picky at your statement, if I read it the first time you were not clear about a modified adapter maybe stronger enough to withstand the usage of being in the hosel. You said That hole filled with cured epoxy is just as strong as the adapter itself.

Which is not true.

Anything modified from it's original design will not be 100% as it was intended. Functional nor structural . FGA, we are already maximizing on the application of everything to use the least material to produce the most products ( effects). Ever wonder why things in life today won't last as long as it used to be ?

Again, I was not attacking or criticizing at your statement. I was just amazed.

[bladehunter]

That hole compromises the strength of the adapter.

 

That hole filled with cured epoxy is just as strong as the adapter itself.

 

BT

 

Wow,

 

Wow what?

 

Unless you apply heat to break it down, it is just as solid and anything else you epoxy, like those bonded hosels everyone seems to think are superior to adapters. There's more chance of the screw snapping or the bond failing on the graphite shaft than the adapter breaking.

 

Personally, I think the OP is silly for not just ordering the Rubber-Tungsten tip weights and using them.

 

BT

 

Not being picky at your statement, if I read it the first time you were not clear about a modified adapter maybe stronger enough to withstand the usage of being in the hosel. You said That hole filled with cured epoxy is just as strong as the adapter itself.

Which is not true.

Anything modified from it's original design will not be 100% as it was intended. Functional nor structural . FGA, we are already maximizing on the application of everything to use the least material to produce the most products ( effects). Ever wonder why things in life today won't last as long as it used to be ?

Again, I was not attacking or criticizing at your statement. I was just amazed.

 

in my field of work modified things are in the end often times 100% stronger then the original design ... Epoxy may well be as strong as the thin aluminum ... bet its closer than you think .

 

 

edit--- quick read reveals common epoxy compressive strengths at a minimum of 10,000psi and a tensile strength of 3500 psi ...... ( numbers are just quick averages for epoxy i found... would have to know specific brand etc to get exact numbers).....would need to know gauge and type of aluminum to know its limitations.

[Nessism]

in my field of work modified things are in the end often times 100% stronger then the original design ... Epoxy may well be as strong as the thin aluminum ... bet its closer than you think .

 

 

edit--- quick read reveals common epoxy compressive strengths at a minimum of 10,000psi and a tensile strength of 3500 psi ...... ( numbers are just quick averages for epoxy i found... would have to know specific brand etc to get exact numbers).....would need to know gauge and type of aluminum to know its limitations.

 

Aluminum is about 8-12X stronger than high grade industrial epoxy in terms of tensile strength. Materials are not typically rated for compressive strength unless you are talking concrete.

[PALS-SSA]

Wouldn't it just be easier to not use so much epoxy? You're getting airlocks because you are using too much in the bore of the adapter. Just a small coating, with a heavier amount on the shaft, if you insist on wiping off a ton of excess.

 

You don't need to find a solution if you eliminate the problem.

[MK7Golf21]

Wouldn't it just be easier to not use so much epoxy? You're getting airlocks because you are using too much in the bore of the adapter. Just a small coating, with a heavier amount on the shaft, if you insist on wiping off a ton of excess.

 

You don't need to find a solution if you eliminate the problem.

 

That’s too easy, need to think outside the box. Drill three holes in the adaptor, even more air to escape and can use a whole jar of epoxy.

[wkuo3]

In general terms, multiple material with different density will never be bonded together stronger than one single solid material.

 

I would accept the fact that one little hole on the adapter may or may not have issue on the purpose of design, which is used to hold the shaft and the head together.

However, a general term of it's stronger, left a lot of possibilities out there. A good engineer never neglect the details, because everything IS in the detail.

One can research and try to prove one's point. The matter of the fact is, when it does not matter, there are many roads all lead to Rome. But when it matters, the is but one or a few which could serve the defined purpose.

 

So yes, I was not disagreeing on if the drilling will work, just amazed at the statement that covered the general terms.

 

Plus it be easier to groove in a line on the plug ( tip weight ) to allow the pressure to be balanced ? Not hard to do and won't have to deal with drilling a hole on the adapter. If I need to plug a homemade tip weight into the adapter, that'll be my first choice. to modify the tip weight instead of modifying the designed structure. For one thing, it's won't avoid the implied OEM warranty

[Mych]

Entertaining thread. The idea of drilling a hole in the adapter is pretty suspect, but I'm sure I've done stuff that would make people cringe also so just make sure to give it a very realistic test with nobody nearby. Make sure you take a couple of nice healthy divots.

 

I'd be concerned about microfractures extending from the hole. You've created a point of least resistance when torque is applied. If there are any imperfections around that hole it could end badly.

 

After this build, order a jar of tungsten powder and some shaft corks just to be prepared for the next build.

[A.Princey]

FWIW, I hit this club, a 2017 M1 440 head, at the range today for the first time and took a few 1/4 swings to start. I inspected the shaft and the tip after this and no issues were visible or noticeable. I then took two solid swings and hit really good drives and noticed no change to the club whatsoever. At this point I was adjusting the hosel settings every 3-4 balls and nothing happened to the adapter or club to warrant further inspection. In the third setting I chose, I began to get favorable results and proceeded to hit 25 -30 more balls at full speed, no issues. Sound, feel, and visual inspection yielded no red flags.

 

In conclusion, the shaft, adapter and head all seem to be fine and in perfect working order. I feel confident moving forward and will be putting this into my bag for tomorrow's round. I'll definitely report back if this ever does happen to fail on me, at any point in the future. My SS is 105-110.

 

When inserting shafts into different style adapters and with shafts of varying tip diameter(new vs. used several times), it's often difficult to gauge how the shaft will seat into each sleeve. Sometimes the fit is snug and other times a bit more loose, and with the end of the shaft plugged by residual epoxy from a previous install, it causes air lock sometimes. All I can say is, I don't waste much epoxy on my builds and I use enough to be properly adhered. In 50+ adapter installations, I've yet to have 1 "epoxy" failure, so to all those that ill-prepared/applied their installs, causing failures, please don't comment that I'm doing it wrong. My clubs are still together and still hitting balls from the very first attempt....

[Ri_Redneck]

That hole compromises the strength of the adapter.

 

That hole filled with cured epoxy is just as strong as the adapter itself.

 

BT

 

Wow,

 

Wow what?

 

Unless you apply heat to break it down, it is just as solid and anything else you epoxy, like those bonded hosels everyone seems to think are superior to adapters. There's more chance of the screw snapping or the bond failing on the graphite shaft than the adapter breaking.

 

Personally, I think the OP is silly for not just ordering the Rubber-Tungsten tip weights and using them.

 

BT

 

Not being picky at your statement, if I read it the first time you were not clear about a modified adapter maybe stronger enough to withstand the usage of being in the hosel. You said That hole filled with cured epoxy is just as strong as the adapter itself.

Which is not true.

Anything modified from it's original design will not be 100% as it was intended. Functional nor structural . FGA, we are already maximizing on the application of everything to use the least material to produce the most products ( effects). Ever wonder why things in life today won't last as long as it used to be ?

Again, I was not attacking or criticizing at your statement. I was just amazed.

 

No worries. As I spent a lot of my time working on clubs when epoxy was literally the strongest part of a wood head! Heck, epoxy and screws held the entire head together! So, I have a great deal of confidence in quality epoxy when mixed and applied properly.

 

BT

[ForTourUseOnly]

Every driver has a weight or hotmelt port that you can add weight to the head if needed. Not sure why you would need a tip weight in some sort of metal wood.

 

Because they are a lot less expensive than the OEM weights and most don't have easy access to hot melt or just don't like to deal with the fact that it's a PITA to take out if too much gets put in.

 

Lead tape is a decent option as well, but seems like you made it work