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When did you stop playing CB irons?


CupCup

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There is no law saying you have to buy late model CB to play this game. If you want more conservative lofts, either you can buy late model player's CB where their PW has a loft between 46-48 deg or buy an older model GI or SGI model with those similar lofts.

There was a time when the lofts of GI and SGI irons of an OEM where the same lofts as their player's irons counterparts.

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10.5 deg Titleist 905R with stock UST Proforce V2 Shaft (Stiff flex)
Titleist 990 (3-PW) with stock Dynamic Gold in S300
Taylormade V-Steel 5W & 3W with Grafalloy Prolaunch Red shafts (Regular Flex)
2011 Adams Tom Watson signature wedges in 52 and 56 degrees with stock steel shafts (Player's Grind)
Rife Island Series Aruba Blade Putter

 

"Loft for loft, length for length, and shaft for shaft, the ball will go the same distance when hit on the sweet spot regardless how old the iron."

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I generally stopped playing CB irons after a handful of practice sessions and about the second or third round playing them. I have tried several sets of BC irons during my golfing days and most have been a bad fit for me. The only CB irons I have ever had any success with was the Titleist 962b irons in the later 90s. Those were retired when I got my first set of 1999 Ben Hogan Apex blades. I recently tried Mizuno JPX-900 Tour irons and that experiment lasted two rounds and 4 practice sessions. I still hit my Apex blades better and those are just as forgiving in my trials.

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Driver:  TaylorMade 300 Mini 11.5° (10.2°), Fujikura Ventus Blue 5S Velocore

3W:  TaylorMade M4 15°, Graphite Design Tour AD DI 7S

Hybrid:  TaylorMade Sim2 2 Iron Hybrid 17°, Mitsubishi Tensai AV Raw Blue 80 stiff

Irons:  Mizuno Pro 223 4-PW, Nippon Modus3 Tour 120 stiff

GW / SW: Mizuno T-22, 52° (bent to 50°)/ 56° (bent to 54°), True Temper S400

LW:  Scratch Golf 1018 forged 58° DS, Nippon Modus3 Tour 120 stiff

Putter:  Byron Morgan Epic Day custom, Salty MidPlus cork grip

Grips:  BestGrips Augusta Microperf leather slip on

 

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Turn it around. When I stopped playing blades and started playing CB. lol When I started playing golf, there were only blades. 1968 to 1980 was blades (Top Flight, Wilson Staff, MacGregor Tourney). Since then, CB. The closest CB to a blade was my Hogan Apex Plus.

Driver: Callaway Epic Flash 10.5 w/ Project X Evenflow Green 55 R shaft Fairway woods: Callaway Epic Flash 5 and 7 wood Hybrids: Callaway Big Bertha 4i and 5i Irons: Srixon ZX5 6-AW, Wedges: Cleveland RTX Zipcore 54 and 58 degree Putter: mySpider X

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mp60 were my last set of cb's

Ping G400 LST 11* Ventus Black TR 5x

Ping G400 5w 16.9* Ventus Black 5x

Ping G400 7w 19.5* Ventus Red 6x

Ping G425 4h 22* Fuji TourSpec 8.2s

Ping Blueprint S 5 - PW Steelfiber 95 & 110s

Ping Glide Wrx 49*, 54*, 59*, Tour W 64* SF 125s

EvnRoll ER9
 

 

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Are you complaining about cavity-back, or SGI/mislabeled GI irons? I would suggest you find cavity-back irons in SGI, GI and Players Distance categories, depending upon the model. As for PWs...

I played Calla X20 Tours - definitely CB - for about 10 years. The PW was 46°.TaylorMade SLDR irons (2014) has 46° PW. (Had Thru-Slot variation on cavity back.)Titleist 718 CB irons had 47° PW.Our club pro got new TM irons with a 44° PW. He added specialty wedges 48-52-56-60 to standardize his inside-100 scoring game. He strengthened the 5i and dropped the 4i to make room for the fifth wedge.

When the resurrected Hogan irons showed up circa 2015, the line offered single-degree loft changes from 20° up through the wedges. One set I considered was 22°, 27° and 32°, followed up by 4-degree increments up through the wedges. One way to handle strong lofts hurting distance gaps is to add a wedge, and squeeze out one of the longer irons.

What's In The Bag (As of April 2023, post-MAX change + new putter)

 

Driver:  Tour Edge EXS 10.5° (base loft); weights neutral   ||  FWs:  Calla Rogue 4W + 7W

Hybrid:  Calla Big Bertha OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  Calla Mavrik MAX 5i-PW

Wedges*:  Calla MD3: 48°... MD4: 54°, 58° ||  PutterΨSeeMore FGP + SuperStroke 1.0PT, 33" shaft

Ball: 1. Srixon Q-Star Tour / 2. Calla SuperHot (Orange preferred)  ||  Bag: Sun Mountain Three 5 stand bag

    * MD4 54°/10 S-Grind replaced MD3 54°/12 W-Grind.

     Ψ  Backups:

  • Ping Sigma G Tyne (face-balanced) + Evnroll Gravity Grip |
  • Slotline Inertial SL-583F w/ SuperStroke 2.MidSlim (50 gr. weight removed) |
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Went the other way: blade to bladish CBs. Had the Cally 2013 X-Forged and loved them. They got beat up pretty bad over the years, especially from the sandy soil where I play now, so I picked up the Apex Pro 19 irons. I like compact heads, thin top lines, and minimal offsets like blades provide. I don't want to go stronger than 45 degrees in the PW. But the forgiveness in the players cavity backs just make golf more enjoyable.

A long time ago, my set would be 2-PW in blades, with a 56 and 60 wedge setup. Woods were driver and 3 wood. My all time favorite blade was the Mizuno TP-9 lefties. Now, I have the driver, 3 wood, 3 and 4 hybrids, 5-PW. and 50, 54. and 60 wedge set up.

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