Lowest Spinning Driver

[Exactice808]

Exactice, I hit on trackman for the first time two weeks ago. I was in the upper 120's lower 130's. I have always been blessed/cursed with great speed. I gave long-drive a shot about 10 years ago I was fast but not fast enough to get by with my poor ball striking. My numbers were higher back then but i was using that blue swing speed radar. The pro 2 weeks ago was not concerned with my AoA but he was concerned with my ball striking and spin numbers. I honestly do not care about hitting the ball 350-360 anymore but I would like some roll out ! When I am playing decent courses I will keep my Titleist in the bag since I can control it but I do play a lot of courses where I can get away with a low spinning driver. So I was looking for opinions on what they are.

 

 

figuring so, with your 120+ MPH swing speed then you indeed could put 4000rpms of spin on it.

 

 

If your AoA is fine then you might have a spin loft issue along with a club setup that needs tweaking.

 

1) What do you have now? You said Titleist? Head and shaft specs including Loft of driver

2) As for ball striking... well this is a concern, no matter if you use a "low spinning" driver like Nessim Stated....your misses will be amplified more.

 

 

Thoughts

[Matchplay10033]

Golfnut I have no doubt spin is created by my bad contact! We had the face marked during the session so I know where I was hitting on my face. What bothered me was when I looked down and saw the ball mark on the middle of the face it was still spinning very high... 3500 or so... I rarely hit my driver on the course I am nowhere near accurate enough with my swing speed to consistently hit fairways. I use a 1 iron or three iron and that's plenty. I would like a driver I could use in scrambles or the forgiving courses when I play.. That was why I started this thread. Just looking for feedback on what combos might work.

[Matchplay10033]

913 d3 at 7.5, fujikura pro 73 x stiff tipped 1 inch... Plays xx. I sent the pro an email and am waiting for him to get back to me... So I could post the numbers.

[Golfrnut]

Golfnut I have no doubt spin is created by my bad contact! We had the face marked during the session so I know where I was hitting on my face. What bothered me was when I looked down and saw the ball mark on the middle of the face it was still spinning very high... 3500 or so... I rarely hit my driver on the course I am nowhere near accurate enough with my swing speed to consistently hit fairways. I use a 1 iron or three iron and that's plenty. I would like a driver I could use in scrambles or the forgiving courses when I play.. That was why I started this thread. Just looking for feedback on what combos might work.

 

Ideally, shoot for contact a little above the equator. You are looking to make use of the gear effect to kill spin while keeping the ball speed up and maintaining a good PTR.

 

Also, pay attention to the balls you are using as well. Use a premium ball to measure spin...not saying you didn't, but the ball can throw off numbers as well.

[Exactice808]

913 d3 at 7.5, fujikura pro 73 x stiff tipped 1 inch... Plays xx. I sent the pro an email and am waiting for him to get back to me... So I could post the numbers.

 

Golfnut, is better at these things than I am..... but let me say this, 3500rpms at that swing speed is not unheard of, watching some of the pros that are at 115-120 get 3000rpms shots here and their. More so, more speed equals more spin.

 

 

Spec for spec wise, looking for at your Fujikura Pro, it stated Mid Kick with low spin and Mid Launch.

 

 

This is just me guessing and throwing out a bunch of BS at this point...... so again its purely coffee talk suggestion but just what I am "assuming"

 

1) The 7.5* head is amplifying your misses, The less loft the harder to control

2) The Shaft is a Mid Kick with a mid launch. with a tipping you are moving it around, but you could also still look into getting a high kick with a low launch low spin shaft and tip this....

3) What is your peak height? 100ft? 35yards etc? People that think too high is really not high enough. I know when I had my D2 it was launching nicely @ 100ft, but everyone said it was too high. So I got a D3 with a low launch and brought it down visually it was "cool" looking, but after a month and going back to the fitter, the 85ft was NOT optimized and recommended me getting the launch back UP.....

 

I am assuming you think you are hitting too high hence the 7.5*, have a negative AoA that is adding some massive spin along with a crazy spin loft numbers that is why the ballooning is huge and the ball stops without a piercing flight.

 

 

just to play around.

 

 

Try a 9.5 head. With a low launch low spin shaft, ( HZRDUS black 75 as noted by many above.... looking at the Titleist shaft chart, Motor Speeder and the Kiyoshi black all sit in that low spin low launch category.

 

 

I think the increased loft will help you with your AoA visually so you dont have that need to attack it so much, It should flatten the attack angle/swing and help with your spin loft as I cant imagine 7.5* head, 4000rpms, I am assuming you might have a 13-15+* launch so that spin loft is some crazy numbers.....

 

 

Any ways..... D3,7.5* ........ 4000rpms..... an M1, G-LS, Cobra LTD, aint going to make a difference.... not that much from the sound of quality of strike...

[Bruin Bear]

Get a 8.5* Adams 9015D with an 80X Aldila Protopype airborne...I dare you.

[bsavage]

Biocell Pro with a black tie is long off the tee and super low spinning and can be had for cheap. It is more forgiving than the sldr 430 and less expensive than the m1. win win.

[jons1]

make sure you're hitting toward the top of the club to reduce spin. also, if you're adding loft through impact, that causes the high spin issues as well.

 

the ping g ls tec is the lowest spinning driver that still has a higher moi. taylormade has plenty of low spinning clubs, but the moi is very low in most of them.

[Saskwatch]

If your a titleist guy, give the 915 D4 a shot. I was a big fan of my 910 d3, but I got fitted knowing and still knew playing it that it was a spin machine. I bagged it since 2010 until this season. I took the 915 d4 down to the trackman this spring and the spin numbers lowered dramatically. I average just under 2000 with the d4 and my d3 was 2850. I had some low spin ones in the 15s and 16s with the d4!

 

No loss in forgiveness for me. 120mph ss.

 

Off topic, 10 years ago I was swinging 129-133 and my r7 head was in excess of 4000 rpm average!! Lol. Ball speed was low to mid 190s. My highest recorded was 197. Man I miss those days of flexibility and power! I had a grafalloy blue X at the time and it helped some, but it still span like a Mofo. Tech and know how we're not so great back then sadly :(.

[lees]

Ping anser

TM super deep tp

Cleveland classic 290

I've had good low spin numbers with these 3 heads and they can be found pretty cheap now.

[North Texas]

Last May I had a go with the Mizuno JPX850 at the Carlsbad Driving Range in their big spring demo weekend. Couldn't get it to spin more than 1700

 

For me, the JPX850 lowered my spin by about 1000 rpm's. Went from high 3000's to high 2000's.

 

It's the first, and only, driver I've ever hit that got me below 3000 rpm's consistently.

[hbear]

Bought SLDR 9.5 in 2012, since bought and sold M1 & r15; both added spin for me. SLDR set at 11 with Project X7C3 Tour Issue and ProV1x are about as low spin as it gets.

 

I too hard a hard time dialing in the R15 and M1 as they would both spin more for me than the SLDR 430....so SLDR stays in the bag.

[NikeNerd]

I've got an absolute spin killer in the garage. Almost brand new Nike VR driver, 8.5 degrees with 73 X Whiteboard tipped 1.5 inches, 44.5 inches long. Doesn't go very high (for me) but would be a beast on a links golf course in strong winds

[03SMURF]

I have a Callaway X2Hot 5.5* Pro head and a XXX-stiff HoF Ultra shaft I could make you a deal on that should bring your launch and spin down quite a bit.

[Tcann32]

That head (Titleist D3) isn't known for being super low spin.. and my experience with Fuji's, between the Pro and the Speeder, happen to be a couple of my favorite shafts. They seem to launch lower still, but do spin quite a bit more than many of the other shafts I have used that are seemingly less stout.

 

4000's is probably a miss of some sort. At your speed it's amplified by quite a bit, at my speed (110 +/-) on harder swings, it'd probably be in the 3000's. 3000's, especially lower in that range, wouldn't be all that surprising to see on good strikes, and you should see some roll..

 

If you're carrying it that far, which is damn far, I wouldn't go on the hunt for too low of spin. I can appreciate the fact that it's hard leaving some distance on the table. I'm doing it with my current set up as well, but man do I like hitting out of the fairway.. lol

[Pepperturbo]

That head (Titleist D3) isn't known for being super low spin.. and my experience with Fuji's, between the Pro and the Speeder, happen to be a couple of my favorite shafts. They seem to launch lower still, but do spin quite a bit more than many of the other shafts I have used that are seemingly less stout.

 

4000's is probably a miss of some sort. At your speed it's amplified by quite a bit, at my speed (110 +/-) on harder swings, it'd probably be in the 3000's. 3000's, especially lower in that range, wouldn't be all that surprising to see on good strikes, and you should see some roll..

 

If you're carrying it that far, which is damn far, I wouldn't go on the hunt for too low of spin. I can appreciate the fact that it's hard leaving some distance on the table. I'm doing it with my current set up as well, but man do I like hitting out of the fairway.. lol

 

Interesting and I agree regarding D3. For some reason Titleist watered down D3. When it was first brought to market, it was smaller and had a deeper face than D2; similar to 905S, which was low spin COG forward and slightly high 400 head. D2 was like 905R, 460 with low to back COG. Similarities are amazing, yet nobody seems to pay attention. All they did for a number of years is repackage, re badge and refine them. With D3 being so much like D2, makes a person wonder.

[CamFaj]

Just did a Driver demo at my local Golfsmith. Hit about 30 balls with the M1 and 30 with the new blue nike. 30 with Callaway. My spin rates with the Nike and Callaway averaged 3500 and my M1 spin rates averaged 2500. All three were with 60g stiff flex shafts.

[J13]

Just did a Driver demo at my local Golfsmith. Hit about 30 balls with the M1 and 30 with the new blue nike. 30 with Callaway. My spin rates with the Nike and Callaway averaged 3500 and my M1 spin rates averaged 2500. All three were with 60g stiff flex shafts.

 

Nike blue head and Callaway aren't very specific. Both have various models. And what stock shafts?

[Exactice808]

That head (Titleist D3) isn't known for being super low spin.. and my experience with Fuji's, between the Pro and the Speeder, happen to be a couple of my favorite shafts. They seem to launch lower still, but do spin quite a bit more than many of the other shafts I have used that are seemingly less stout.

 

4000's is probably a miss of some sort. At your speed it's amplified by quite a bit, at my speed (110 +/-) on harder swings, it'd probably be in the 3000's. 3000's, especially lower in that range, wouldn't be all that surprising to see on good strikes, and you should see some roll..

 

If you're carrying it that far, which is damn far, I wouldn't go on the hunt for too low of spin. I can appreciate the fact that it's hard leaving some distance on the table. I'm doing it with my current set up as well, but man do I like hitting out of the fairway.. lol

 

Interesting and I agree regarding D3. For some reason Titleist watered down D3. When it was first brought to market, it was smaller and had a deeper face than D2; similar to 905S, which was low spin COG forward and slightly high 400 head. D2 was like 905R, 460 with low to back COG. Similarities are amazing, yet nobody seems to pay attention. All they did for a number of years is repackage, re badge and refine them. With D3 being so much like D2, makes a person wonder.

 

Pepper, this is a tough one....and I would hate to say I have drank the Titleist Kool-Aid since I have one/two LOL......

 

but my thoughts...

 

The Differences between the D2/D3

 

D2-

Larger CCs

wider face

low and back CG for more forgiveness

"Dynamic Face Closure"

More launch and Spin provided by the CG location

lighter stock shaft options

 

 

D3

Smaller profile for the traditional look

Smaller CC for the "enhanced workability"

Lower and more forward CG for reduced spin

Neutral head design

Slightly deeper face

Lower launch and spin

Tour level shaft options

 

 

 

Reality between the 2 from my experience.

 

 

Launch and spin is very different for me. this is with the same shafts in both head with both the same lofts and settings. The D3 will and has produced a much lower ball flight with a lot less spin For me.

 

Workability is truly up to the ability of the player, but I dont see so much to gain between the 2, I can say I can slice & hook the D3 further out of bounds..... than the D2 LOL

 

 

The D2 does want to shut the face easier, this helps the people that fight slices so the ball will start left of target and come back on target. The D3 is more neutral so with a zero path it works well. The D2 will be tough to fight hooks and the D3 is again a little better due to the neutral face.

 

Forgiveness between the 2 is relative based on the players ability. I find the D3 plenty forgiving and not much of a difference between the D2 personally. But the D2 does have its merits for highly off centered hits..... So again the masses will be the judge.

 

 

So personally, there are merits between the 2 models, I dont really think its a repackaging thing......in comparison to some of the other companies out there.......

[Dallas]

Take a look at the Titleist 915 D4, Cobra F6+ and M1 and M2.

[CamFaj]

Just did a Driver demo at my local Golfsmith. Hit about 30 balls with the M1 and 30 with the new blue nike. 30 with Callaway. My spin rates with the Nike and Callaway averaged 3500 and my M1 spin rates averaged 2500. All three were with 60g stiff flex shafts.

 

Nike blue head and Callaway aren't very specific. Both have various models. And what stock shafts?

 

Sorry I hit the Nike Vapor Fly Pro with the Mitsubishi Blue Board shaft I think that was the stock shaft

also hit the Callaway Great Big Bertha with a stock stiff shaft I don't remember the shaft in the Big Bertha. Would like to try the Alpha 816 but they didn't have any available. I see you hit the Sub Zero what are your thoughts on that vs the Great Big Bertha and Alpha 816?

[J13]

Just did a Driver demo at my local Golfsmith. Hit about 30 balls with the M1 and 30 with the new blue nike. 30 with Callaway. My spin rates with the Nike and Callaway averaged 3500 and my M1 spin rates averaged 2500. All three were with 60g stiff flex shafts.

 

Nike blue head and Callaway aren't very specific. Both have various models. And what stock shafts?

 

Sorry I hit the Nike Vapor Fly Pro with the Mitsubishi Blue Board shaft I think that was the stock shaft

also hit the Callaway Great Big Bertha with a stock stiff shaft I don't remember the shaft in the Big Bertha. Would like to try the Alpha 816 but they didn't have any available. I see you hit the Sub Zero what are your thoughts on that vs the Great Big Bertha and Alpha 816?

 

It's a whole different league compared to the GBB and ALpha 816. SZ is IMO one of the best heads on the market.

[Pepperturbo]

That head (Titleist D3) isn't known for being super low spin.. and my experience with Fuji's, between the Pro and the Speeder, happen to be a couple of my favorite shafts. They seem to launch lower still, but do spin quite a bit more than many of the other shafts I have used that are seemingly less stout.

 

4000's is probably a miss of some sort. At your speed it's amplified by quite a bit, at my speed (110 +/-) on harder swings, it'd probably be in the 3000's. 3000's, especially lower in that range, wouldn't be all that surprising to see on good strikes, and you should see some roll..

 

If you're carrying it that far, which is damn far, I wouldn't go on the hunt for too low of spin. I can appreciate the fact that it's hard leaving some distance on the table. I'm doing it with my current set up as well, but man do I like hitting out of the fairway.. lol

 

Interesting and I agree regarding D3. For some reason Titleist watered down D3. When it was first brought to market, it was smaller and had a deeper face than D2; similar to 905S, which was low spin COG forward and slightly high 400 head. D2 was like 905R, 460 with low to back COG. Similarities are amazing, yet nobody seems to pay attention. All they did for a number of years is repackage, re badge and refine them. With D3 being so much like D2, makes a person wonder.

 

Pepper, this is a tough one....and I would hate to say I have drank the Titleist Kool-Aid since I have one/two LOL......

 

but my thoughts...

 

The Differences between the D2/D3

 

D2-

Larger CCs

wider face

low and back CG for more forgiveness

"Dynamic Face Closure"

More launch and Spin provided by the CG location

lighter stock shaft options

 

 

D3

Smaller profile for the traditional look

Smaller CC for the "enhanced workability"

Lower and more forward CG for reduced spin

Neutral head design

Slightly deeper face

Lower launch and spin

Tour level shaft options

 

 

 

Reality between the 2 from my experience.

 

 

Launch and spin is very different for me. this is with the same shafts in both head with both the same lofts and settings. The D3 will and has produced a much lower ball flight with a lot less spin For me.

 

Workability is truly up to the ability of the player, but I dont see so much to gain between the 2, I can say I can slice & hook the D3 further out of bounds..... than the D2 LOL

 

 

The D2 does want to shut the face easier, this helps the people that fight slices so the ball will start left of target and come back on target. The D3 is more neutral so with a zero path it works well. The D2 will be tough to fight hooks and the D3 is again a little better due to the neutral face.

 

Forgiveness between the 2 is relative based on the players ability. I find the D3 plenty forgiving and not much of a difference between the D2 personally. But the D2 does have its merits for highly off centered hits..... So again the masses will be the judge.

 

 

So personally, there are merits between the 2 models, I dont really think its a repackaging thing......in comparison to some of the other companies out there.......

 

Over recent years there has been little design difference. Look at 915's today, under HIGH MOI design. Both D2 and D3 are low and back, yet on another page suggests D3 is slightly different. That slight difference is CAD influenced, yet from my experience doesn't come out in the players hands. If better golfers don't notice difference, another question has to be asked. There use to be an identifiable different between D2 and D3. I owned all 983/905 series followed by first D3 and D2; dropped the line later. The same guy wasn't fit into both, even with same shaft.

 

That's slowly changed, as its coming down to minor CC spread. And you're right, player ability, but his "attention do detail" marks difference or doesn't. That difference is why I play SLDR as opposed to TM's other offerings that were alleged low spin. Never been a cool-aide kinda guy, but, if the cool-aide tastes good to ya, enjoy.

[kmcelhaney]

Bought SLDR 9.5 in 2012, since bought and sold M1 & r15; both added spin for me. SLDR set at 11 with Project X7C3 Tour Issue and ProV1x are about as low spin as it gets.

 

I too hard a hard time dialing in the R15 and M1 as they would both spin more for me than the SLDR 430....so SLDR stays in the bag.

 

Did you also have the 430 version of the M1 and R15?

[Pepperturbo]

Bought SLDR 9.5 in 2012, since bought and sold M1 & r15; both added spin for me. SLDR set at 11 with Project X7C3 Tour Issue and ProV1x are about as low spin as it gets.

 

I too hard a hard time dialing in the R15 and M1 as they would both spin more for me than the SLDR 430....so SLDR stays in the bag.

 

Did you also have the 430 version of the M1 and R15?

 

No, I didn't.... Having standard R15 and M1 was enough realization to stick with SLDR. At some point a reasonable person should ask themselves; do I play golf or test golf equipment, and what am I hoping to realize from constant buying and testing; a few yards?

 

For me, too much buying and testing equipment distracts from playing good golf. Besides, I am a firm believer in "if it works, don't fix it".

[txl146]

How can you guys tell if the head is really, "low" spinning without getting it measured? Just curious...

[Golfrnut]

How can you guys tell if the head is really, "low" spinning without getting it measured? Just curious...

 

Used to be the "deeper faced" and shorter front to back shaped heads signified a head that you would think would be a "low spin" head. While that still holds true, the material differences and the way they can make the heads now has kind of opened that window up a bit more.

 

In either case, the overall goal is to get the CG low, below the contact point, to make use of the gear effect...and forward to lessen the amount of dynamic loft at impact. Both have pros/cons, physical limitations in head construction, etc.

 

Much of the "low spin" categorizing begins with advertising...the OEMs are catering to a market, might as well let them know it.

[The Chicken Connoisseur]

How can you guys tell if the head is really, "low" spinning without getting it measured? Just curious...

 

CG location. Check our the spy golf site

[Exactice808]

Over recent years there has been little design difference. Look at 915's today, under HIGH MOI design. Both D2 and D3 are low and back, yet on another page suggests D3 is slightly different. That slight difference is CAD influenced, yet from my experience doesn't come out in the players hands. If better golfers don't notice difference, another question has to be asked. There use to be an identifiable different between D2 and D3. I owned all 983/905 series followed by first D3 and D2; dropped the line later. The same guy wasn't fit into both, even with same shaft.

 

That's slowly changed, as its coming down to minor CC spread. And you're right, player ability, but his "attention do detail" marks difference or doesn't. That difference is why I play SLDR as opposed to TM's other offerings that were alleged low spin. Never been a cool-aide kinda guy, but, if the cool-aide tastes good to ya, enjoy.

 

Actually you make a good point...... Lets separate first

 

1) A good player, can essentially play anything...... this is one that truly has control of their swing, In other words they can play with the differences and not be overly affected by club design. (Low launch high launch, low spin, high spin. CC difference, face depth and width.

2) A mediocre player/Sunday hacker, can get away with different types of club designs. They could benefit from the different club designs to let them play better golf at their current level. Has a steep AoA and, so could use a lower lofted driver, or a lower spinning driver etc.....

 

 

 

With that said, Inherently clubs have their differences and the biggest thing is players have their preferences. While I agree.... the D2 vs D3 is NOT a huge difference in comparison to an SLDR and JetSpeed line that was released at the same time.

 

I think Titleist is known to be that "better" player line type of club...... meaning the minor tweaks of the D2 vs D3 are more intended for the player that needs just that, a "Tweak" for the best performance.

 

 

SLDR is a great example, a Bomber, if hit right, but marketed for the masses which in NO way was meant for the masses. The Jetspeed on the other hand could be played equally well by both ends of the spectrum.

 

Then came the M1, similar in thought but the CG most likely moved around to increase forgiveness. The M2 on the other had is still that tweak of a club for similar performance and additional forgiveness...in comparison to the . RBZ Stage 2, Aeroburner etc more forgiving line....

 

 

 

My rambling point...... if we had a line from 1-10, 1 being beginner 10 being pro.

 

10 - OG/SLDR

9 - M1,Ping G LS

8 - D3, M2, Ping G

7 - D2,

6 - Aeroburner, X2hot, G-SFT

3 - Tommy Armour 845

1- SLDR-C (im sorry I had too LOL)

 

Let me try this again.....Example Purposes only......

 

 

Any ways you get my point..... I dont think its meant to touch the whole spectrum of golfers..... but meant for a certain level and tweaks for that level....

[The Chicken Connoisseur]

Over recent years there has been little design difference. Look at 915's today, under HIGH MOI design. Both D2 and D3 are low and back, yet on another page suggests D3 is slightly different. That slight difference is CAD influenced, yet from my experience doesn't come out in the players hands. If better golfers don't notice difference, another question has to be asked. There use to be an identifiable different between D2 and D3. I owned all 983/905 series followed by first D3 and D2; dropped the line later. The same guy wasn't fit into both, even with same shaft.

 

That's slowly changed, as its coming down to minor CC spread. And you're right, player ability, but his "attention do detail" marks difference or doesn't. That difference is why I play SLDR as opposed to TM's other offerings that were alleged low spin. Never been a cool-aide kinda guy, but, if the cool-aide tastes good to ya, enjoy.

 

Actually you make a good point...... Lets separate first

 

1) A good player, can essentially play anything...... this is one that truly has control of their swing, In other words they can play with the differences and not be overly affected by club design. (Low launch high launch, low spin, high spin. CC difference, face depth and width.

2) A mediocre player/Sunday hacker, can get away with different types of club designs. They could benefit from the different club designs to let them play better golf at their current level. Has a steep AoA and, so could use a lower lofted driver, or a lower spinning driver etc.....

 

 

 

With that said, Inherently clubs have their differences and the biggest thing is players have their preferences. While I agree.... the D2 vs D3 is NOT a huge difference in comparison to an SLDR and JetSpeed line that was released at the same time.

 

I think Titleist is known to be that "better" player line type of club...... meaning the minor tweaks of the D2 vs D3 are more intended for the player that needs just that, a "Tweak" for the best performance.

 

 

SLDR is a great example, a Bomber, if hit right, but marketed for the masses which in NO way was meant for the masses. The Jetspeed on the other hand could be played equally well by both ends of the spectrum.

 

Then came the M1, similar in thought but the CG most likely moved around to increase forgiveness. The M2 on the other had is still that tweak of a club for similar performance and additional forgiveness...in comparison to the . RBZ Stage 2, Aeroburner etc more forgiving line....

 

 

 

My rambling point...... if we had a line from 1-10, 1 being beginner 10 being pro.

 

10 - M1, D3,

9 - Ping G LS

8 - D2, M2, Ping G

6 - Aeroburner, X2hot, GSF

3 - Tommy Armour 845

1- SLDR-C (im sorry I had too LOL)

 

 

Any ways you get my point..... I dont think its meant to touch the whole spectrum of golfers..... but meant for a certain level and tweaks for that level....

 

This is so wrong. D3 is nowhere close to M1