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Easier way to remove ferrule


dlow206
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3 minutes ago, dlow206 said:

Let me preface this with that I have cut off 100s of ferrules. But there is something that bothers me about cutting off the ferrules on graphite shafts. 

 

The only good alternative i have found is this, its works pretty well. Any other ideas?

 

image.png.f5bff5136b590e77827cb3624ea72f3c.png

 

A friend had that and I watched him use it once. Scraped into the shaft paint pretty severely. I would never purchase one based on watching it.

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1 minute ago, dlow206 said:

interesting... i have one and have used it multiple times and have never scratched the paint. 

 

It might have something to do with his technique and it was only once that I saw it in use.

Callaway Mavrik 12°/Kuro Kage Silver r flex, Callaway Mavrik Max Heavenwood/Xcaliber RT5 r flex, Maltby KE4 HyWay 23°/Xcaliber SL r flex, Maltby KE4 Tour TC 4h/Xcaliber Rapid Taper r flex, Maltby KE4 Tour TC 5h/Xcaliber Rapid Taper r flex, Maltby KE4 Tour+ 6-G/Xcaliber Rapid Taper r flex, Maltby TSW 54° and 58°/Xcaliber Rapid Taper r flex, Mizuno Bettinardi C06

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I just hit the ferrule with a torch for a few seconds and then cut if off with a sharp blade (cutting toward the hosel) keeping the blade nearly flat to the shaft.  Taking care to not be a moron by going to fast and scratch the shaft.  If I'm using a shaft puller (club that has an adaptor), I often don't bother with the ferrule until the adaptor is off.  I then usually just force it off with a 2-piece block with a hole cut into it.

 

Likely many ways to do it.  Just don't be in a hurry.  Speed kills.

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If you are super worried about scratching the shaft, I usually use a heat gun to get the ferrule pretty gooey and then use a toothpick, plastic instrument or something non-metallic to get under the lip and then use a hook blade to remove the rest of it.  

 

I too have that tool you mentioned and never use it.  Far easier and cleaner to remove the ferrule first.  

 

If it's on an adapter, I'll put a long screw into the adapter with a washer at the end so my shaft puller can catch on it.  The heat up the adapter and pull it off leaving the ferrule behind.  Then heat it up and push it off with something non-metallic.  Has worked well for me FWIW.  

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This is a bit redneck, but I just flip a sturdy knife over(blade up) and push the knife tip towards the hosel/adapter. Have the blunt side angled slightly to the shaft and hold on opposite the knife direction. Works great.

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Another vote for warm it and cut it off. I use a regular knife blade instead of a razor knife.

 

BT

 

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12 minutes ago, Caddy Carl said:

Another thing you can do after heat is carefully grab it with a pair of pliers an twist it, getting it loose enough to where it will slide off after you pull the head/adapter.

That works well on steel.  I can see people damaging a graphite shaft by getting careless. 

 

My preferred method is to grab the ferrule in a clamp, in a vise and twist it before I apply heat.  Gives me the option of saving the ferrule if needed.  If it doesn't break free, I get a little more aggressive.  

Ping G400 9º TFC 419 Stiff at 45"

Jazz 3 wd Powercoil Stiff
Ping i20 3 Hyb 707H Stiff
Rogue 3iron Recoil 660 F3 +1/2"
X2 Hot 4-PW Recoil 660 F3 +1/2"
Vokey SM2 52º cc, Ping ES 56º and ES 60º
Ping Sigma2 Valor at 34.75"
MCC Align Midsize

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