A Tall Golfer's Fitting Journey (6'6") - A follow up from @Rybo

[spncrn]

This is also posted to the thread  @rybo created ... 

***UPDATE -  Iron Build Is complete! ***

Setup as of 5/31/23:

Taylormade P760 Heads 2* Upright (standard lofts)

KBS Tour V 120g X Flex +1.25"

MCC +4 Grips

 

Swingweights:  (Bullet Weights Removed)

4 - D3.5

5 - D3.5

6 - D3.5

7 - D3.5

8 - D3.5

9 - D4

P - D4.5

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I wanted to share both my experience of fittings and doing experiments this past year --  hopefully this will give you guys some insight, validate your feelings of bad fitting experiences, and give you some hope/ideas for the future...

 

First here's my stats as of 03/2023:

6'6"

Approx 38.5 WTF (with reg shoes on)

90+mph 6 iron swing speed // 105-110 driver

 

Fittings:

I've gone through 4 fittings all producing different results - purely based on the fitter's preconceived notions of "fit" and not knowing what to do with a tall person...

 

1st fitting - Taylormade in 2020

Result:  Irons: +1.5"  &  upright 2*  (p790 - DG 120 S300 shaft).      Woods: standard length/lie

** limited selection of longer shafts - but overall a really decent experience

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

2nd fitting - Club Champion 2022

Result:   Irons: +1"  &  Flat 3*  (p790 - Kbs Tour C taper Stiff)

**Really bad fitting session - this combo resulted in 5-6 broken clubs/shafts over 1 session due to these improper specs- didn't find anything that worked well**

***I refused to buy the clubs and made sure they knew how disappointed I was in the result and that my time was wasted... resulted in a refit for free**

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

3rd fitting  - Club Champion 2022 (Refit)

Result:  Irons: +1.25"  &  Upright 2*  (Mizuno 225 - KBS Tour stiff)

**Slightly more satisfied and felt better taken care of - but how did they have a 4* swing in lie angle?*  -- I continued searching for answers 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

4th fitting - Golf Galaxy 2022 (Just to confirm that nobody knew what they were doing - and I had a gift card to use)

Result:  Irons: +1" & Flat 2* (Callaway Apex Pro - Dynamic gold S300)

**All around not great - Limited shaft selection - fitter used himself and his stats as a basis for how my fit should go

**i.e. - he likes flat lies at +1/2" - because he's 6'3" with long arms --- therefore I need a flat lie - Ughhhh : / 

 

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Experiment #1:

I started by lengthening my old clubs by 2" since they were previously 1/2" shorter than standard length. This got them to a decent length at a standard lie -- They are Adam's Golf GT Tight Lies irons with some sort of Mid-flex steel shafts from 2007ish.

While this length was excellent for 8,9,PW - it bunched up my 5,6,7 irons to hit them roughly all the same distance. I was also playing them at standard lie, and it was really messing with my setup position and swing trying to hit a 4 iron and 9 iron that were now wildly different in flex, length, swing weight, etc...

 

This pushed my swing weights up into the E's. Yikes.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Experiment #2:

After this initial run, I bought a fitter's club (Taylormade P760) with an upright 2* lie angle and a stiffer shaft (DG 120 s300).

I put another 2" Extension into it to try to get something that resembled a modern club with a stiffer shaft and the proper length. ** I know 2" is too long, but you can always choke up on it**

This worked amazingly well -- I could actually hit the ball without it spraying all over the place, and could actually learn how to swing properly, and more comfortably.

 

** I highly recommend trying to find one of these on eBay - I paid about $50-60 for it**

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Experiment #3:

I bought an actual 7 iron and built it to the following specs:

P760 7 iron  

Lie: 64* (2*up)

Length: +2" (again because I knew I needed approx +1.5")

Shaft: Dynamic Gold x100 105 shaft 

Pros+Cons:

- Pros: This setup is what I have been using to teach myself proper swing mechanics and it works amazingly well if I'm choked up on it by about 1/2". The ball flight is straight, the length is comfortable, and I can strike the ball in the middle of the face.

- Cons: Swing weights are pushing into the E's (yikes again), the DG X100 105 is way too soft at this length and weight, this is causing erratic shaft droop and lots of swings that hit the turf, HARD.

 

Back to the drawing board

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Experiment #4:

Since I loved the p760's and they're super affordable used - I ended up buying a 5-PW set for $300 on eBay here in the US, in preparation for a truly custom build...

Recently I bought a 4 iron to complete this set which came with a KBS Tour Stiff shaft at +1/2" - and it was surprisingly much more stable than the 7 iron I've been using from experiment 3...

 

Which brings us to today... 

I am actively in the process of switching to a stiffer shaft at +1.5"...

I have ordered a KBS Tour X shaft that will be this proper length once installed in my 6 iron (I wanted to compare it to the 7 iron and 4 iron)

 

I think this will be one of my last experiments as I want to get out there with a full set to see what I can really do with my new clubs, even if they're not perfect.

If the KBS is above a 20% improvement in stability, stiffness, and consistency, I'll be putting these in the bag and my full iron set will look something like this:

 

P760 heads - KBS Tour Extra Stiff (+1.5") - 2* Upright Lie

4 - 63* 

5 - 63*

6 - 63.5

7 - 64*

8 - 64.5

9 - 64.5

PW - 64.5

 

Wedges - TBD - Will update this

Woods - TBD - Will update this

Driver - TBD - Will update this

Putter - 37-38" most likely.

______________________________________

Total Iron Build Cost: $750-800 (not including my manual labor)

 

I hope this gives you all some insight into how to do this faster than I did it - (this has taken about 1 year to get dialed in, and I know it's not perfect just yet)

I will try to keep this updated, and please reach out with any questions!

 

** Lastly, If you are on the fence about doing this or spending the time... Going through this process to have properly fitting clubs has taken my scores from the high 90's to the low 80's - even before I build these new clubs!

 

Link to Rybo's Post here

Edited May 31, 2023 by spncrn

[CKaneb]

fellow giraffe here (6'8" with a 39 ITF measurement). I have undergone a similar number trials and tribulations with golf equipment in an attempt to find a setup that works for my lankiness (tbh I've tried more shafts than I can remember. You name it I've pretty much tried it), so if you ever need or want someone to bounce ideas off of I'd love to help cuz I know what it's like to have your irons and wedges playing at E2 and feeling like you're losing a boat load of distance and speed and hate how the club feels over the ball cuz you can practically do bicep curls with your 7 iron.

 

Few notes for you continuing your search

1. continue to try KBS shafts (they have a higher balance point than True Temper and Project X so even if you are playing a 130g shaft like you are now, it will swing weight lighter than some lighter shafts that have more traditional balance points)

2. try the sharpie trick to figure out where you like your lie angles should be if you're still uncertain about what they should be (draw a line on a ball with a sharpie and set it up so it is vertical. Hit the ball and it should leave a sharpie line on your club face, if it is vertical like how the ball was then your lie angles are good)

3. Experiment with soft stepping your shafts as well. Will make them play slightly softer in flex but they will swing weight lighter too

[spncrn]

Really appreciate that @CKaneb- I’ll have to keep you updated once I put that shaft in the 6 iron.

 

What’s your setup for irons?!

[CKaneb]

Head: Titleist T100 2019 4-PW

Shaft: Dynamic Gold 120 X100 Tour Issue

Grip: Golf Pride Tour Velvet BCT Cord Midsize

 

Lofts

4: 24*

5: 27*

6: 30*

7: 34*

8: 38*

9: 42*

PW: 46*

 

Lengths (1.25" above standard)

4: 39.75"

5: 39.25"

6: 38.75"

7: 38.25"

8: 37.75"

9: 37.25"

PW: 37"

 

Lie Angles (2.5* Upright)

4: 63.5*

5: 64.5*

6: 65*

7: 65.5*

8: 66*

9: 66.5*

PW: 66.5*

 

Swing Weights (Before & After Lead Tape)

4: D5 --> D5

5: D3+ --> D5 (3 grams added)

6: D4+ --> D5 (1 gram added)

7: D4+ --> D5 (1 gram added)

8: D5 --> D5

9: D4+ --> D5 (1 gram added)

PW: D5 --> D5

 

[spncrn]

This is awesome, thanks man! I'll have to update this with all my numbers when I finally complete my build!

 

I'm also now just seeing your setup in your signature, but I appreciate you writing all of this out!

[ChaosTheory]

Do tall guys stand the same distance from the ball as average guys?  You guys have upright swings?

 

Being average,I have no idea.  I suppose if you stood farther away, you’d need even longer clubs still.

[R_Swanson]

12 hours ago, CKaneb said:

Head: Titleist T100 2019 4-PW

Shaft: Dynamic Gold 120 X100 Tour Issue

Grip: Golf Pride Tour Velvet BCT Cord Midsize

 

Lofts

4: 24*

5: 27*

6: 30*

7: 34*

8: 38*

9: 42*

PW: 46*

 

Lengths (1.25" above standard)

4: 39.75"

5: 39.25"

6: 38.75"

7: 38.25"

8: 37.75"

9: 37.25"

PW: 37"

 

Lie Angles (2.5* Upright)

4: 63.5*

5: 64.5*

6: 65*

7: 65.5*

8: 66*

9: 66.5*

PW: 66.5*

 

Swing Weights (Before & After Lead Tape)

4: D5 --> D5

5: D3+ --> D5 (3 grams added)

6: D4+ --> D5 (1 gram added)

7: D4+ --> D5 (1 gram added)

8: D5 --> D5

9: D4+ --> D5 (1 gram added)

PW: D5 --> D5

 

 

Did you drill the heads?  I'm 1" over standard (39" 5i) with Nippon modus 120 X's and my swing weights are much higher.  My head weights were pretty spot on, I averaged 7 grams between each head until the GW, which dropped to 3.

 

Our shafts weights should be pretty comparable. 

 

Edit:  maybe it's the midsized grips, I'm using MCC +4's.  But I'm at D9.

Edited March 29, 2023 by R_Swanson

[CKaneb]

did zero drilling whatsoever. If I had to guess the difference is coming from either the balance points of the shafts and then the extra weight I am getting from playing midsize grips

[spncrn]

8 hours ago, Snowman9000 said:

Do tall guys stand the same distance from the ball as average guys?  You guys have upright swings?

 

Being average,I have no idea.  I suppose if you stood farther away, you’d need even longer clubs still.

 

If you're talking linear measurements, no - everything is larger...

 

But proportionally, we're all just aiming to have a similar/comfortable setup position...

 

Which is why fittings/fitters are virtually ineffective when you go outside of the 90th percentile.

[ChaosTheory]

16 minutes ago, spncrn said:

 

If you're talking linear measurements, no - everything is larger...

 

But proportionally, we're all just aiming to have a similar/comfortable setup position...

 

Which is why fittings/fitters are virtually ineffective when you go outside of the 90th percentile.

So if an average person stands say 18 inches from the ball with a 7 iron, you might be say 21 inches, right?  I’m trying to see where the more upright lies come into play. Relatively speaking you must be a bit more upright in posture than average.

[NRJyzr]

15 hours ago, Snowman9000 said:

So if an average person stands say 18 inches from the ball with a 7 iron, you might be say 21 inches, right?  I’m trying to see where the more upright lies come into play. Relatively speaking you must be a bit more upright in posture than average.

 

The more upright lies are to prevent the length from getting unreasonable.  We can use a bit of cheap trig with arbitrary assumptions to illustrate.

 

We'll take a 38.25" club with a 60* lie angle (I'm using a Ping Blueprint 4i, close enough for this exercise at 59.8* lie).  The 38.25" is the hypotenuse, and using the sine of a 60* angle, we find that the butt end of the club is 33.12" off the ground.  

 

A black dot player is roughly 34" wrist to floor, at 6' height.  Again, arbitrary.  I'll use the 39" wrist to floor mentioned in this thread.  At same posture, we'll assume that results in the butt of the club being 5" higher off the ground.  To maintain that same 60* lie angle, the length of that club would be 44".

 

Even if we assume that 5" greater wrist to floor results in only 2.5" higher vertically, we're still talking about 41-1/8" to maintain that 60* angle at impact.  Aka +3".

 

FWIW...  sine of a 60* angle is 0.8660, and in a right triangle is opposite side divided by the hypotenuse.  38.25/44.16 = 0.8660, with rounding.  🙂

 

Therefore, to keep the added length from being unwieldy, we need to increase that lie angle as well as going longer.

 

Hope I didn't mess up the math in there (more than I've already caught, LOL).  It's early yet.

 

Edited March 30, 2023 by NRJyzr
fixed an error

[No_Catchy_Nickname]

19 minutes ago, NRJyzr said:

 

The more upright lies are to prevent the length from getting unreasonable.  We can use a bit of cheap trig with arbitrary assumptions to illustrate.

 

We'll take a 38.25" club with a 60* lie angle (I'm using a Ping Blueprint 4i, close enough for this exercise at 59.8* lie).  The 38.25" is the hypotenuse, and using the sine of a 60* angle, we find that the butt end of the club is 33.12" off the ground.  

 

A black dot player is roughly 34" wrist to floor, at 6' height.  Again, arbitrary.  I'll use the 39" wrist to floor mentioned in this thread.  At same posture, we'll assume that results in the butt of the club being 5" higher off the ground.  To maintain that same 60* lie angle, the length of that club would be 44".

 

Even if we assume that 5" greater wrist to floor results in only 2.5" higher vertically, we're still talking about 41-1/8" to maintain that 60* angle at impact.  Aka +3".

 

FWIW...  sine of a 60* angle is 0.8660, and in a right triangle is opposite side divided by the hypotenuse.  38.25/44.16 = 0.8660, with rounding.  🙂

 

Therefore, to keep the added length from being unwieldy, we need to increase that lie angle as well as going longer.

 

Hope I didn't mess up the math in there (more than I've already caught, LOL).  It's early yet.

 

[kb7]

29 minutes ago, NRJyzr said:

 

The more upright lies are to prevent the length from getting unreasonable.  We can use a bit of cheap trig with arbitrary assumptions to illustrate.

 

We'll take a 38.25" club with a 60* lie angle (I'm using a Ping Blueprint 4i, close enough for this exercise at 59.8* lie).  The 38.25" is the hypotenuse, and using the sine of a 60* angle, we find that the butt end of the club is 33.12" off the ground.  

 

A black dot player is roughly 34" wrist to floor, at 6' height.  Again, arbitrary.  I'll use the 39" wrist to floor mentioned in this thread.  At same posture, we'll assume that results in the butt of the club being 5" higher off the ground.  To maintain that same 60* lie angle, the length of that club would be 44".

 

Even if we assume that 5" greater wrist to floor results in only 2.5" higher vertically, we're still talking about 41-1/8" to maintain that 60* angle at impact.  Aka +3".

 

FWIW...  sine of a 60* angle is 0.8660, and in a right triangle is opposite side divided by the hypotenuse.  38.25/44.16 = 0.8660, with rounding.  🙂

 

Therefore, to keep the added length from being unwieldy, we need to increase that lie angle as well as going longer.

 

Hope I didn't mess up the math in there (more than I've already caught, LOL).  It's early yet.

 

 

I'm going to get together with a buddy who was a math teacher and have him water this down for me. I'll report back if I'm smart enough to remember.

[NRJyzr]

1 minute ago, kb7 said:

 

I'm going to get together with a buddy who was a math teacher and have him water this down for me. I'll report back if I'm smart enough to remember.

 

FWIW, I was a bit of a math nerd in school, BUT....

 

I *am* 59 years old.  It's been a rather long time since I wallowed in this stuff.  😉

 

[kb7]

5 minutes ago, NRJyzr said:

 

FWIW, I was a bit of a math nerd in school, BUT....

 

I *am* 59 years old.  It's been a rather long time since I wallowed in this stuff.  😉

 

 

People like myself appreciate people like you and applaud your efforts. I am simply a dumb janitor who dabbles in club building, so all of this math stuff is very helpful!

[st1800e]

This video posted elsewhere, reposting to make a point and for any new readers.  One of the factors with being tall and upright lie angles is less room to swing (proportionately) for a tall golfer.

 

 Much less “room to swing.” And more stress on back. 

I’ve hit a 38.5”  wedge as a test  very comfortable, good results despite the high swing weight, until the 3” extension broke, lol.  
Assembling a new set now , ~+1 1/2”.   37” PW, 3/8” progression from there.   6’3, 37.5 WTF. 
 

 

[spncrn]

 

3 hours ago, NRJyzr said:

 

The more upright lies are to prevent the length from getting unreasonable.  We can use a bit of cheap trig with arbitrary assumptions to illustrate.

 

We'll take a 38.25" club with a 60* lie angle (I'm using a Ping Blueprint 4i, close enough for this exercise at 59.8* lie).  The 38.25" is the hypotenuse, and using the sine of a 60* angle, we find that the butt end of the club is 33.12" off the ground.  

 

A black dot player is roughly 34" wrist to floor, at 6' height.  Again, arbitrary.  I'll use the 39" wrist to floor mentioned in this thread.  At same posture, we'll assume that results in the butt of the club being 5" higher off the ground.  To maintain that same 60* lie angle, the length of that club would be 44".

 

Even if we assume that 5" greater wrist to floor results in only 2.5" higher vertically, we're still talking about 41-1/8" to maintain that 60* angle at impact.  Aka +3".

 

FWIW...  sine of a 60* angle is 0.8660, and in a right triangle is opposite side divided by the hypotenuse.  38.25/44.16 = 0.8660, with rounding.  🙂

 

Therefore, to keep the added length from being unwieldy, we need to increase that lie angle as well as going longer.

 

Hope I didn't mess up the math in there (more than I've already caught, LOL).  It's early yet.

 

 

Thanks @NRJyzr !

 

You're spot on about lie angle and length - Flex has ultimately been the biggest mystery to me since golf clubs are surprisingly low resolution unless you're testing CPM...

 

For example - When I fit custom hockey sticks, the flex (85, 95, 105, etc) is the amount of Lbs required to bend the stick 1"...

 

So being 6'6" and extending my hockey stick by 4" over standard required me to up my flex to 120 in stiffness to achieve a similar feel to a 95.

 

Now that I'm testing out X Flex shafts I'm seeing excellent results!

[ChaosTheory]

On 3/30/2023 at 10:22 AM, st1800e said:

 

This video posted elsewhere, reposting to make a point and for any new readers.  One of the factors with being tall and upright lie angles is less room to swing (proportionately) for a tall golfer.

 

 Much less “room to swing.” And more stress on back

 

That is more or less what I was wondering about, hence my question earlier.

[PresTex]

You may want to look at the LAGP Graphite iron shafts. They are very high balance points and you can likely get a somewhat normal swingweight at 1-2" over. Not cheap but might be worth it for you.

[RH82]

For me at 6'5" all I cared about was the starting point of having a PW at 36.5" and going from there which ended up being +0.75". The longest I've ever had was +1" and that was fine until I got to the 4 and 5 iron. It just felt way too long in those irons. I also play a neutral lie angle because having upright irons leads to an inconsistent strike causes the pulls. 

[st1800e]

On 4/1/2023 at 11:48 AM, Snowman9000 said:

That is more or less what I was wondering about, hence my question earlier.

So did that answer your question earlier? 

[st1800e]

3 hours ago, PresTex said:

You may want to look at the LAGP Graphite iron shafts. They are very high balance points and you can likely get a somewhat normal swingweight at 1-2" over. Not cheap but might be worth it for you.

I looked at the website, nothing I could find describing their iron shafts as HBP, also seems they’ve only got stiff and up. 
Do you some further details? 
thanks.  

[PresTex]

1 hour ago, st1800e said:

I looked at the website, nothing I could find describing their iron shafts as HBP, also seems they’ve only got stiff and up. 
Do you some further details? 
thanks.  

They dont post much as far as specs on their website. I just know from other peoples builds they SW much lighter. I have a 7i L Series 120 4(Stiff) flex that is ~1" long sitting here if you want to test it out. As far as flex I wouldnt be too afraid of trying out the stiff even if you normally play regular. They arent crazy stout in my opinion.

 

Also, check out Drew Cooper's on IG and his WITB on TXG's youtube channel. He plays at least 1" over and ive seen him mention this as well with these shafts.

 

 

 

 

Edited April 3, 2023 by PresTex
add video

[SCguy1993]

On 3/30/2023 at 11:22 AM, st1800e said:

I’ve hit a 38.5”  wedge as a test  very comfortable, good results despite the high swing weight, until the 3” extension broke, lol.  
Assembling a new set now , ~+1 1/2”.   37” PW, 3/8” progression from there.   6’3, 37.5 WTF. 
 

 

 

I'm 6'3" with a 37.5" WTF.   I did the same and started with all wedges at 37.5" and 3/8" increases up to 4i.  Went from S to X flex. The results have been incredible.   I wish this was discussed more often for tall golfers.  

[st1800e]

On 4/3/2023 at 1:52 PM, PresTex said:

They dont post much as far as specs on their website. I just know from other peoples builds they SW much lighter. I have a 7i L Series 120 4(Stiff) flex that is ~1" long sitting here if you want to test it out. As far as flex I wouldnt be too afraid of trying out the stiff even if you normally play regular. They arent crazy stout in my opinion.

 

Thanks for the offer , but my flex is somewhere between sr and reg and graphite.  

Edited April 8, 2023 by st1800e

[spncrn]

On 4/3/2023 at 11:18 AM, PresTex said:

You may want to look at the LAGP Graphite iron shafts. They are very high balance points and you can likely get a somewhat normal swingweight at 1-2" over. Not cheap but might be worth it for you.

 

 

oooh good call - I've been meaning to get my hands on one of them to try them out. 

 

So far the KBS Tour V XStiff (120) has been good at lowering the swing weight and getting my mechanics back in order. Currently at D7 - hoping to get to D5 with these to save the joints a bit more (counterweight, or heavier grips)

 

 

[spncrn]

An update on my current setup - To be finished/built this week! (finally)

 

P760 Irons 4-PW  |  KBS Tour V X 120g Shafts  |  +2* Up  |   +1.5"  (final lengths TBD)  |  MCC +4 Midsize (62g)

 

Swingweight:  Roughly D6-D7 (TBD)

 

Lie Angles:

4 iron - 63*

5 iron - 63.5*

6 iron - 64*

7 iron - 64.5* 

8 iron - 65*

9 iron - 65*

PW - TBD

52 - TBD

56 - TBD

58 - TBD

 

[spncrn]

Major update! The build has begun!

Setup with pics and prices below…

 

P760 heads 4-PW - $380

KBS Tour V X Flex 120g (7 shafts) - $300

MCC Plus 4 Midsize (pack of 13) - $65

Assembly supplies $30-40

Total Build Cost: $770 ish
 

SW scale - $90

Various other expenses - $50

 

I also pulled the weights from the hosels in hopes of lightening the swing weights to around D4! (Pics below)

 

[enfuego]

I'm glad you were able to get the bullet weights out. Curious what weights they were. Lightening the head weight is absolutely key on over length builds.

 

I'm on my third experiment with +1" irons, 37"wtf with shoes. Lighter weight shafts, balance point and head weight can still produce a heavy enough feeling club where you won't lose the feel of it. I was able to go from +1/2" 2up to standard lie +1". There aren't many options for lighter head weights but I'll list a few others. Taylormade irons/wedges where you pull the bullet hosel weights, not easy but can be done. Mizuno b weight heads, they use them on +1/2" or more. PXG gen4-6 has a changeable weight. Edel SMS/pro. Ping's last two cycles 425/430/i230/i525/etc all have 10ish gram screws in the toe, before that the cavity insert could be changed by ping in the older heads. Maltby KE4 Max (playing these with no weight screw and tip trimmed a stiff flex shaft an extra half inch) and very affordable to test builds. For wedges the cbx line uses lighter weight heads in the low to mid 290s vs the standard 300. 

 

Balance point for shafts can also help a lot. The best resource I've found is golfshaftreviews.com, well worth it. The EI area is also a helpful decent enough standard to distinguish differences in flex between companies. LA Golf, steel fiber, Nippon NSPro __50 series/modus 120 and some KBS have high balance points to help. There is another chart floating around other threads. For dynamic gold their 130g shafts have a higher balance point, the 120g are neutral and 105g are lower to try to hit reasonable swing weights (d3) on standard builds as you drop overall weight.

 

For swing weight I have found counter weighting the butt end only has a slight change in feel and tricks the scale. A swing weight scale is only designed to be used with a 50g grip. If you change that then the standard is off and the scale readings can only be used relative to similar grip/counter weighting. For example to see the difference between two different shafts/heads with the same grip weight.

 

Hope this will help others on their journey.

Edited May 27, 2023 by enfuego

[spncrn]

Build is done 🙌🏼

Swingweights range from D3 (4i) to D4.5ish(P)

 

More specs to come after lofts/lies adjusted. 

 

Wedges are next - then driver, 3 wood, putter. 
 

…..
 

Enfuego - I appreciate all the suggestions.

 

Unforuntantely that’s incorrect about swingweight scales - it’s repeated on here way too often.

 

This idea that adding weight “tricks the scale” is false. 

 

Yes swingweight readings are relative to the component parts.. but the 14 in. fulcrum distance and weight block is standardized — Just like on a traditional bodyweight metal scales. 

 

That’s like saying body weight scales are “designed” for a “standard” 150lb human. 

 

 

Edited May 28, 2023 by spncrn