Help! Simulator numbers WTH???

[Superbrit]

This its just a case of People thinking they hit it a certain distance, and then they find out how far they actually hit it, and are usually shocked

 

Same with all these people who claim they hit their 7 iron 165, then cant clear a water hazard on a 140 yard carry on a par 3

 

Unfortunately the truth (and ego) hurts

[GoGoErky]

Many base distances off that one time they flushed a shot and thing that’s their normal distance or only look at total distance off the tee and ignore ball flight, course conditions, etc and have no idea what their carry is which is more important than total

[wobgon]

The "huh" referred to the "your carry should be closer to 240 to 247 part of your post.

[Righty to Lefty]

What am I missing? His carry should be around 240 to 247 with the driver and a 95 mph swing speed. I swing at 118 mph and these numbers are almost dead on with my distances.

[brew4eagle]

I swing it at 95 and my carry is well short of 240, probably around 220 carry. I've never been fitted though. Just use an i20 off the rack from 2013. If you're correct about 240 to 247, I'm asking for a driver fitting from Santa

[WristySwing]

The part you are misreading is that the row you are looking at is total, not carry. His carry will be about 225, which is basically right where it is now. The OP is maxed out and isn't hitting the 3wd 260, period.

[Righty to Lefty]

You should base your distances off of a flushed shot because you have to get to the point where strike is taken for granted and you know that you will flush the shot but I do agree that the carry number is the most important. Your club selection should then be based off where the trouble is whether it is short or long on the given hole. Your averages shouldn't be factored from shots that aren't flushed, they should come from the amount of speed that you produce on average with any given club, on a flushed shot. You have never heard a Pro talk to his caddie and say "yeah I'm gonna account for hitting this shot thin or fat!" The numbers they are coming up with on any given shot are assuming that the golfer is going to hit the ball flush or understanding what the dynamics of the lie are going to do to the shot. The chosen club comes from assessing where the trouble is and how the shot will be affected by the lie. The golfer should always believe that they will hit the shot flush, but understand that their current tendencies and state of their game will take away from their optimal carry distance.

If I hit 10 full seven irons off the ground I assure you that at least 8 of them are going to go 175 yards and the other 2 will be some sort of mistrike that will land short of that. I am also sure that none of them will be longer than 175. That is a maxed out yet comfortable 7 iron for me and that is the number that I play to for that club. However if I had only hit one of those ten shots 175 yards that is still the number that I should have in mind for that club because that is my potential with that given club, but I should also realize that everything I do will take away from that 175 yards such as strike, lie, wind, etc. and plan my strategy from there. As you become a better golfer your ability to produce that 175 yards will become more reliable and that will lead to better golf but your baseline should still be based off of a flushed shot with that club because you will still be able to plan for any given shot. If you factor in mistrikes to your stated 7 iron number and drop that number to say 165 instead of 175, you have just invited one more variable into your planning because now you can miss short and long whereas before your miss would only be short.

[Righty to Lefty]

Right on...I stand corrected !!

[Brentwalker52]

 

Here are my driver numbers from today tried my driver x2hot and a xr16 and Callaway rogue all at 10.5 degrees

[Brentwalker52]

 

And here are the numbers from my Callaway xhot 3 wood 15 degree

[brew4eagle]

Looks like your 3 wood is a good fit for you and/or you find the sweet spot more reliably. Maybe look for a driver with a shorter shaft length. I ended up with an i20 and have had great results for 6 years with it. I attribute a lot of the success to the shorter shaft length it came stock with vs. all these modern 45.5 to 46" drivers.

[Brentwalker52]

And here are some single frames from the 3 wood so if we if figure out what the malfunction is that would be great! The pro at the club I got these numbers from said some people just hit the 3 wood better

 

[th6252]

so uh "usually goes 250-260"? you playing at a higher elevation like somewhere in colorado?

[Brentwalker52]

No it was a guesstimate based on the yardage marjkers on my local muni course I play on I don’t have a range finder etc and I think u guys were missing the point not overly concerned with the yardage number as much as why the 3 wood goes farther than the driver which if u look at the charts from today shows! Sorry I don’t have my exact yardages like everyone else around here apparently

[Brentwalker52]

37 yards on average distance between driver and 3 wood with 3 wood winning is not normal I think most would agree

[brew4eagle]

You're definitely not hitting the driver in the middle as can be seen by the variance in your driver numbers. Are you teeing it high enough, so at least half the ball is above the driver crown. Tee it high and hit up on it.

[Exactice808]

First I dont buy any Total numbers just carry as Carry is King. this also has the BONUS of conditions to go further but fact remains carry is essential.

 

The first Set of averages (9 shots) (No where NEAR 250-260 yard shots, your post shows 222y average Total)

3wood

Carry- 198 yards

Ball speed- 133mph (1.45smash = 91mph Swing speed, 1.48smash = 89mph swing speed) This flows and is legit with your prior post of a 90-95mph driver swing speed.

Launch Angle - 11* LA

Spin - 2541 rpms

 

DEAD ON numbers per below 198 average,

 

Your second 3 wood (pictures as suspect) (5shot avg)

1) Your greatest carry was 225, with a string average of 221.68 yards SO again your 3 wood average is 221 no where near 250 to 260. Lets be clear and realistic.

2) You have a ball speed average of 135.46 mph with your 3 wood, That is GREAT! (This also indicates with a quality smash of 1.48 you have a 91mph 3 wood swing speed, or even with a 1.45smash your 3 wood swing speed could be 93mph. (But a pretty big difference from your first Launch monitor average)

 

3) Launch Angle Average 13.3

4) Spin average 3607.4rpms

 

These are ALL great numbers

BUT, this is 135mph ball speed with your launch specs, 206 carry. not sure how your system is measuring 221 average carry... But I have been using the Trajectory optimizer for years and its been dead on. SO up to you take it for what its worth...... Just saying Not going to buy the second set of numbers in the slightest. sorry...

 

 

 

Your DRIVER

1) Your greatest carry was 206, Your image average 176y

2) You have a ball speed average of 124 mph with your driver

3) Launch Angle Average 13

4) Spin average 3995rpms

 

Its purely evident you have a swing issue with the driver period.

 

Taking out the really weird numbers

Your ball speed is highly suspect, almost 10mph slower than your 3 wood (9mph)

Your launch angle is 2* different likely a steep AoA with a flip.

Finally your spin, is 1454rpms different, where the AVERAGE Spin for a driver thats quality should be in the 2500rpms ranges, in other words you have 1400+rpms more that you should.

 

Couple thoughts. (Guesses at best)

1) Your AOA must be pretty steep, you are coming in steep with a flip, the Spin loft is evident, higher spin and high launch than your 3 wood

2) the High of 8500rpms indicates a spin issue so again strike and swing issues.

 

You have a mental block for SURE with your driver, a quality instructor needs to help you sort out your driver issues, be it fitting with the right specs or getting you to strike the ball in quality fashion.

 

The final point that I will leave is you have some delusion of grandeur. You do NOT hit your 3 wood anywhere near 250. I dont doubt you have had shots that have gone that far, but I doubt with any real consistency. The data you provide and the evidence that you base it on the yardage markers with no laser sorry that is just reality.

 

I have a 103mph driver swing, I have lasered my longest drive in my life 337y down hill down wind swinging out of my shoes with nothing to lose for the heck of it... Out side of that my average drive is about 250 yards. I already can see by your provided specs there is absolutely NO way you can hit your 3 wood farther than I can hit my driver. Some how you are trained to believe so I am sorry that you are led to believe but "Ball speed doesnt lie"

 

You have yet to provide any 3wood with 158mph of ball speed. THAT is what is needed to hit a 250y 3wood.

 

Spec out your 3wood and then work with a quality fitter and instructor to spec out the driver. It seems you think you hit the 3 wood better, so figure length, Swing weight, shaft weight, over all weight and shaft flex.

 

once you can match the driver to your swing profile (Swing speed, Tempo and transition) you can them optimize.

 

With that though with your 133mph 3 wood I would say you can get about 140-145mph ball speeds with the driver netting about 230-240 yard averages. (or about 95mph swing speeds)

 

GL OP... but I really think you got some soul searching to do.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Exactice808]

Part 2, When I say spec out your driver,

1) Maybe it is shaft length the average 3 wood is 43 to 43.5" long (Xhot non pro is 43.5)

1a) Drivers are average 45 to 45.75, Yikes the X2hot non pro is 46"

2) Shaft weights, what shaft weight do you have in the 3 wood vs the driver, average 3 wood is 60-70grams, The stock Xhot non pro is the Project X, Velocity 5.0 = 55grams, 5.5 = 56gram 6.0= 58grams so on the lighter side

2a) The X2hot stock could be different as well

3) Shaft flex are you loading properly

 

General Rules of thumb,

Tempo affects total weight, the faster your swing tempo, the heavier you "can" go the weight of the shaft balances out tempo. But remember by physics the heavier the shaft the potential for slowing the swing down. So swing the lightest shaft you can control the best.

Loading/transition how fast is your transition if you are hard and load the shaft you could go to a stiffer flex, if you are deliberate or slower in your transition you can go to a softer flex

Length can be tested by the fitter through strike points if you notice you hit a lot on the heel it might be good to try and shorten the shaft ESPECIALLY the X2hot @ 46" you might want to try a 45 or even 44.5" driver shaft, Cameron Champ and TW play it why cant we LOL.

 

 

Again OP You really need a heart to heart with your numbers and start with realistic numbers and expectations only then can you figure your swing better instead of chasing numbers highly unrealistic.

 

 

 

 

[Brentwalker52]

Hey I appreciate the info and like I said my 3 wood numbers were guesstimates based on my home course in summer which is pretty much usually baked out pretty. Good but again my numbers were just guesstimates after rollmout to best of my ability! As for coming in steep what exactly do you mean by that a upward or descending blow? I think the point of my original post was missed I have no desire to say I out hit or out drive anyone I was just trying to figure out how to be a better driver of the ball and if I should just ditch the driver and hit 3 wood off the tee

[hurley999s]

I agree with what @Exactice808 says but also hear what you’re saying. We need some more info.
My hunch here is 1 of 2 things:
1) your 3W fits you very well and your driver is a downright awful fit (you cannot find the middle)
2) somewhat related to above, but your swing speed is such that your 3W loft should really be your driver loft (current driver loft is too low for you), and you should be hitting a 5 wood instead of 3W.
so what you need to do is read Howard Jones driver tune up (just search it on here - I’m on mobile so don’t feel like losing my place here to link). Do you know the length and swingweight of each club? For example, if your 3W is 42.5” and D3 and your driver is 46” and c9, that’s a major issue. Basically try to get a similar balance with your driver as you have in 3w. In this example, your right driver may be 43.5” and D2, so you’d need to cut it down and add weight. Follow the protocol that Howard lays out though before you just go cutting.
Alternatively, if your 3W is 13.5 loft and your driver is 9, you may simply not have the swing speed to elevate the driver. So you can either use 3W as your driver and get a 5/7 wood, or get a new driver that’s like 12-13 loft, and get a 5 wood to use as your 3W

[Brentwalker52]

@hurley999s thanks for info I don’t know squat about swing weights I do know my 3w is the Callaway xhot! The original 15 degree at 43.5 inches and my driver is x2hot at 45.5 inches 10.5 loft both in regular flex though I have tried a shit Ton of other drivers this one is my most current the two that worked best for me the last couple years was a boo cell and a aeroburne but I traded both off looking for something better! I’ll check out the Howard Jones tuneup I had been looking at the Wishon stuff online and it said my driver based on my height should be 43.5 inches and 14 loft based on my height 5’7 thanks again for the useful info

[hurley999s]

i would recommend taking the 3W to a club fitter and asking them to measure it and swingweight it (better yet if they have MOI machine, get those numbers). May cost you $5 per club.

The reason for this is, if you do end up going with a higher loft driver and 5W, you’ll want them to match the balance of that 3W you hit well. Also take note of the shaft you have (beyond just the flex). Write this stuff down because it can be helpful for future builds knowing what’s worked for you in the past.

[Exactice808]

I was not imply your original post was that you out hit anyone.

 

Your original post provided data to which you assumed was wrong as you had thoughts that the ball should go farther. The fact was, the data provide was correct you just had thoughts that were incorrect.

 

You then provided your 3 wood data, which again is still correct to which your estimates are still way OFF.

My response are to get you to accept your base abilities first so that when you do make quantified changes to your current swing the equatable changes meet realistic expectations. Your expectations are HIGHLY unreasonable.

 

OK so getting that out of the way.

 

How and why anyone can get 8300rpms of spin on a driver (that is the same spin as normal 8 or 9 iron should be getting. with that your driver average was 3900rpms that is a 5wood or a 4iron. You are spinning a 10.5* lofted club same as a 24* 4 iron or a 18/19* 5 wood. Now I am NOT a fitter, a pro or a couch, just read a lot and whatch a lot of videos.

 

The relation to spin is "Spin loft" Angle of Attack vs dynamic loft (loft at impact) spin loft - YouTube

I am guessing with NO other info again PURE guesses so take my post with a grain of salt.

 

Potentially The driver Angle of attack is coming in steeper than optimal (descending blow). You are then flipping or presenting more loft at impact. this is causing the spin issues.edit I did notice that you had a 4.3* launch angle, I bet you skulled that trying to hit up on the ball and caught the top of the ball with the bottom of the club.

Next is your quality of strikes, your initial post provided some what optimal numbers, 90-95 swing speed and 138mph ball speed 95/138 = 1.45 smash (this is average but good starting point), 90/138 = 1.53 smash (not normally possible) 1.5 smash factor being optimal.

so your original numbers are good.

 

Your current numbers have 125mph average ball speed and a high of 137mph. Thats a 12mph difference, THATS a lot of ball speed drop off. with 125mph ball speed average and at worse with a 1.40 smash you are getting 90mph driver swing speeds. I assume you are capable of 90-95mph driver speeds period. Its your contact issues. as an example. at max 95mph x 1.5 you should be able to get 142.5mph of ball speed.... 125 vs 142 thats a LOT..... you are not contacting the driver correctly.

 

If you can get some foot spray, go the the range spray your driver face and hit 10 shots, take a photo of it and them compare it here Impact location by handicap

what does your Face impacts look like. Next is actually figuring out where its striking. Hitting it constantly lower on the face will provide gear effect and increase spin which might gain validate a strike issue.

 

outside of it. Might want to take a video and head over to the instruction side of the forums as they can deduce the swing issue better. I am just tearing about your data and your data is legit and right your expectations again are just off.