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Just Bought 1958 Wilson Staff Dynapowered Irons And Thinking About Playing Them


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I just bought a set of the coveted 1958 Wilson Staff Dynapowered irons, and they are on the way to me now as of this post. My thoughts are that instead of just collecting them I am thinking about actually playing them. I do not intend to play these for my regular play set, but rather my retro set. The shafts are regular flex, but I am thinking about reshafting them with Dynamic Gold S300's and putting new grips on them. I am hesitant to do that, since the shafts, shaft bands and leather--but very slick--grips are all original. Heck, even the numbers on the ferrules all match.

 

Here is my question to you guys, especially those of you who actually owned a set of the 1958 Dynapowered irons: how do they hit? Are they sweet enough to justify pulling out the original shafts and installing new shafts and ferrules and a set of modern, rubber grips? Or is the set's collection value so high that I should not do a thing with them except hang them up on a club rack? I feel that if they are as true and sweet as, say, my Golden Rams, I would want to fix them up--or desecrate them?--and play them on the course.

 

I already have three sets of blades: 1981 Golden Ram Tour Grinds, 1982 Golden Ram Vibration Matched Tour Grinds, and my dear 1989 Wilson Staff T589 irons (search "Dean Man's Wilson Staff T589 Irons"). They are all solid, true, and to me they feel pretty much alike. These three sets I use on blade days, and I am happy with each of them. However, I just purchased the coveted 1958 Dynapowered irons, arguably the finest irons Wilson has ever produced, and I want to start hitting balls with them and maybe even play them for my retro bag (i.e., with persimmon woods and a blade putter). Before doing that, I want to check with you guys and see if they are worth the effort do overhaul the set--that is, if the quality of heads are good enough to strike balls with. If they won't hit as well as my Rams, I will just keep them.

 

What do you guys think?

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i would not overhaul, me personally

 

Great find

Ping G400 LST 11* Ventus Black TR 5x

Ping G400 5w 16.9* Ventus Black 5x

Ping G400 7w 19.5* Ventus Red 6x

Ping G425 4h 22* Fuji TourSpec 8.2s

Ping Blueprint S 5 - PW Steelfiber 95 & 110s

Ping Glide Wrx 49*, 54*, 59*, Tour W 64* SF 125s

EvnRoll ER9
 

 

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Leave them as is. You can restore the leather to get tackiness, lots of people with different ways of doing it on this site. and the shafts will play more stiff than regular, Just add one more club to distance.

Not to mention pulling shafts on the Wilsons are a bear and then you will have to bore them out a bit.

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Emporer-

 

+1 with Teevons-

 

First work with the grips, and play them as is.

 

Frequently play with a set of 1959 Wilson Staff Dynapower irons 2-PW (with matching SDP stamps) Also have a '59 Dynapower SW with a different SDP,

 

 

These shafts are pinned, and might present some problems.

 

PS- The 1958 Wilson Staff Dynapower Sand Wedge remains one of the most sought after clubs.

 

If this set came with one....

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I wouldn't reshaft them. I'd get the grips as playable as possible. If still slick, I'd just put old fashioned black friction tape on the grips to make them more playable.

 

I have no idea of value to these clubs. Play them as original and enjoy them.

 

I've used the friction tape on very old slick 1930's clubs. Works pretty good for me.

 

Nice clubs, by the way.

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I have 65 Dyna Power irons. Play as gammers, original shafts but newer grips. imo they are awesome to play 1) the weight, heavier than my 73 Apexs 2) really easy to work because you can feel where the club head is in your swing. Lastly I get more spin of this wedge than my eye 2 wedge. Play them nothing will feel better, in golf anyway.

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I would not even think about re-shafting them. Play them like they are. I've been doing a sort of side-by-side comparison recently that may shed some light. For the past two years I've been playing a set of '69 bulletback Staffs re-shafted with DG S300s. I recently found an identical set with original regular shafts and have played about a half dozen rounds with them. I had always heard that the older regular shafts played stiffer than modern shafts and I have to agree. The difference is slight and, I think, helpful. Give 'em a go. Besides, as mentioned previously, the logistics of changing them out are a nightmare.

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......these were my first set of irons when i started playing golf in 1958-i was 12--and they got me to a single handicap before i was 16...

 

of course i was quite strong and big for my age so adult clubs were not a problem and i remember they were top of the line at the time but nothing like the high tech clubs and materials we have nowadays...

 

keep them all original if you want to use them strictly for your retro set or for collection purposes..

 

otherwise replace the shafts and grips with more modern lightweight ones and they should play quite similar as the modern blades...

 

if you go that route just make sure they have your preferred matching swing weights as clubs of that era did not have the quality control we have now..

Giga XF0710* driver/Hirohonma twin marks 355 10.5* driver
TEE XCG5 16.5* 4W, Giga XF-11 17* 4W
Daiwa New Super Lady 21* 7W
Mizuno Intage 27* 9W
Giga U3 21* hybrid
Tourstage Viq U5 25* hybrid
Adams V4 6H/7H
Adams V4 forged irons 8-PW,GW,SW,LW
HEAVY PUTTER mid-weight K4 putter
Sun Mountain H2N0 stand bag
Wilson Harmonized 55*/60*wedges
Cleveland 588 56/60

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I have not received the clubs yet, but how do I recondition the leather grips? These grips are 58 years old! Is there any way to save them?

 

Don't put the cart before the horse. Those grips may be in better shape than you anticipate. I have a set of Patty Berg's from the 1960's, with leather Reminder grips. Grips still look like new, and those clubs were relatively cheap. I figure the Staff models' grips are better quality.

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If you decide you don't want to play them as is, please sell them to me. I have and will continue to play that era wilson in stock form. I'd prefer to have a slightly longer shaft with round grips (not reminder). But otherwise I want the original leather.

 

If you're going to re-shaft get a set with messed up grips, please. don't destroy a complete set with original grips.

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I just bought a set of the coveted 1958 Wilson Staff Dynapowered irons, and they are on the way to me now as of this post. My thoughts are that instead of just collecting them I am thinking about actually playing them. I do not intend to play these for my regular play set, but rather my retro set. The shafts are regular flex, but I am thinking about reshafting them with Dynamic Gold S300's and putting new grips on them. I am hesitant to do that, since the shafts, shaft bands and leather--but very slick--grips are all original. Heck, even the numbers on the ferrules all match.

 

Here is my question to you guys, especially those of you who actually owned a set of the 1958 Dynapowered irons: how do they hit? Are they sweet enough to justify pulling out the original shafts and installing new shafts and ferrules and a set of modern, rubber grips? Or is the set's collection value so high that I should not do a thing with them except hang them up on a club rack? I feel that if they are as true and sweet as, say, my Golden Rams, I would want to fix them up--or desecrate them?--and play them on the course.

 

I already have three sets of blades: 1981 Golden Ram Tour Grinds, 1982 Golden Ram Vibration Matched Tour Grinds, and my dear 1989 Wilson Staff T589 irons (search "Dean Man's Wilson Staff T589 Irons"). They are all solid, true, and to me they feel pretty much alike. These three sets I use on blade days, and I am happy with each of them. However, I just purchased the coveted 1958 Dynapowered irons, arguably the finest irons Wilson has ever produced, and I want to start hitting balls with them and maybe even play them for my retro bag (i.e., with persimmon woods and a blade putter). Before doing that, I want to check with you guys and see if they are worth the effort do overhaul the set--that is, if the quality of heads are good enough to strike balls with. If they won't hit as well as my Rams, I will just keep them.

 

What do you guys think?

 

 

As far as replacing grip I have had some success with these

http://www.amazon.com/Soft-Spikes-Clubgrip-8-Softspikes-Clubgrip/dp/B002WB1KC2

.

You can wrap them over your present grips They are relatively thin so will not build the

grip up much. Fairly tacky and may allow you to evaluate the clubs playability without

going to a complete re-grip.

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I've got the 1960 Dyna-Powered Staffs...they are gamers. Have fun with your new find!

  • Various Brassies depending on mood: Scottish and UK made
  • Tom Stewart: Mongrel, Jigger, Mashie, Mashie Niblick, Niblick
  • Putters:  Tom Stewart blade or Gem, but lately Spalding Hollow Back
  • [url="http://norcalhickory.com"]NorCal Hickory[/url] - [url="http://pacifichickory.com"]Pacific Hickory[/url] - [url="https://www.instagram.com/stymiemagnet/"]StymieMagnet[/url] (100% hickory golf photos on Instagram)
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I'd be into a Dynapowered play-date.

 

This would be really fun. I've found regional groups who play hickory, but it's really tough finding folks interested in 50's to 70's steel shafted irons. Really I just need an excuse to wear my plaid polyesther Tom Watson pants :taunt:

  • Various Brassies depending on mood: Scottish and UK made
  • Tom Stewart: Mongrel, Jigger, Mashie, Mashie Niblick, Niblick
  • Putters:  Tom Stewart blade or Gem, but lately Spalding Hollow Back
  • [url="http://norcalhickory.com"]NorCal Hickory[/url] - [url="http://pacifichickory.com"]Pacific Hickory[/url] - [url="https://www.instagram.com/stymiemagnet/"]StymieMagnet[/url] (100% hickory golf photos on Instagram)
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The clubs arrived today and after checking them out I decided it is better to keep them as they are and play them on retro days instead of for regular play. The clubs are in very good condition and the grips have a reasonable degree of tackiness to them. They would indeed be a nightmare to overhaul, so they will stay as a retro set. Here are some initial impressions of the set.

 

The set is shorter than standard, and by that I refer to the 5 iron at 37.5". When I started playing golf in 1990 the standard length for a 5 iron with a steel shaft was 37.5, and is the standard I seek. These Dynapowered irons are 3/8" under standard lengths, so as stated earlier in this thread I must indeed club up one when playing. Does anyone know Wilson's length and loft standards at that time?

 

The offset--or lack of it, actually--is exceptional. The leading edges are all square with the left edge of the shaft. The toplines are somewhat medium.

 

The grips seem a little narrower than standard. I would estimate the girps at .580" instead of the standard .600.

 

Overall despite their age I think they are great clubs.

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Do they have reminder grips, or fully round grips?

 

I also love the lack of offset, the thickness of the heads (to me the top line is enough to look like it will put mass on the ball, but thin enough to pick it up without making a mess).

 

 

 

ebeer - funny thing is there are a bunch of people around the bay area using persimmon woods and lots of old irons. I just almost never see them.

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Interested to find out how they play, and some face pics please.

 

The faces are unique. As you can see, the grooves are painted red, and there are two vertical sandblasted lines, which may seem to be an alignment aid, but to me they are unnecessary.

 

When I hit balls with them, the overriding thought will be how do they feel compared to my Golden Rams? To me, Golden Ram Tour Grinds are the benchmark since I had played them for the first seventeen years of my golfing life. I own two sets of them (the '81 and '82 models), but I only play with them occasionally; my regular practice set are the Dead Man's Wilson Staff T589 clubs, which to me feel just like the Rams.

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I have a set I've posted pictures of in other threads. When I got them the grips were a little dried out, but I worked in several applications of Blue Magic Leather Cream Conditioner and they turned out really nice.

 

I play them about every 4th or 5th round. I'm not an expert on these things, but the staffs seem to play pretty stiff. Try them out before you think about changing anything on them. You might like the way they play.

 

As for feel: When you put a good thump on the irons, they feel awesome! One of the local high school players, about 15, was at the range one day hitting really well. I handed him the 2 iron and said "Here, hit this". He addressed the ball and then said "These are tiny!". He whacked it 200+ yards and went "Ooh... ooh! These have a nice 'pop' to them!".

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Based on research of a friend of mine, which was admittedly generic and not specific to individual brands or models, the average 5 iron length in the 50s was indeed about 37" or so.

 

Such as I remember, the sets were set up with a 20° 2 iron, a 32° 5 iron, and a 52° PW. 4° throughout. Again, this is based on generic research, it's quite possible the Wilson Staffs were slightly different.

 

That said, methinks it's a good place at which to start. :)

 

I've mentioned a couple times that I wish I'd started playing golf earlier in life, instead of around my 35th birthday (1998). Equipment specs might have driven me crazy, though, because of my above average (in early 80s) height and shortish arms. Not a lot of 63° lie angles on 5 irons in those days, I'm guessing. LOL

The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini 11.5*, 43.5", Phenom NL 60X -or- Cobra SpeedZone, ProtoPype 80S, 43.5"

Fwy woods: King LTD 3/4, RIP Beta 90X -or- TM Sim2 Ti 3w, NV105 X
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h, MMT 80 S 

Irons grab bag:  1-PW Golden Ram TW276, NV105 S; 1-PW Golden Ram TW282, RIP Tour 115 R; 2-PW Golden Ram Vibration Matched, NS Pro 950WF S
Wedges:  Dynacraft Dual Millled 52*, SteelFiber i125 S -or- Scratch 8620 DD 53*, SteelFiber i125 S; Cobra Snakebite 56* -or- Wilson Staff PMP 58*, Dynamic S -or- Ram TW282 SW -or- Ram TW276 SW
Putter:  Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34" -or- Cleveland Huntington Beach #1, 34.5" -or- Golden Ram TW Custom, 34" -or- Rife Bimini, 34" -or- Maxfli TM-2, 35"
Balls: Chrome Soft, Kirkland Signature 3pc (v3)

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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