JB Weld Quick Epoxy ? If you had 1 epoxy only to rely on??

[Ri_Redneck]

On 10/7/2023 at 9:12 AM, russian7 said:

So how car away was the heat gun or what about juat setting a space heater in front of the clubs and when would you know if its done or cured

About 20" aimed into the enclosure. Set on low, but you need to test because they can vary. I would think a space heater would not be as good since you can't direct the airflow as well. I try to keep all the heat on the head/hosel and away from the shaft.

 

BT

[Nessism]

Please don't blindly follow some crappola advice you read on the internet, even if it comes from someone like ME.  It's critical for you to judge how hot the clubs are getting, and make adjustments based on your specific setup.

 

I use three 2x6 board chunks, arranged around the clubs, with one across the top, then I set my heat gun on low, lay it on the ground from about 2' away, and let it blow into an opening in the boards.  You need to make sure to arrange the clubs, and angle the blower, so it dosen't blast the hell out of the first club in the row, closest to the nozzle.  Use indirect heat.  Reach inside your makeshift enclosure and touch the club heads.  150 will be hot to the touch, but it won't burn you.  Don't go hotter than this.  If the clubs feel really hot, push back the blower, or angle it differently.  And be sure to check all the clubs in your box; you don't want the front ones hot, and the others cool.  Look for even temp.

[Mrgreen36]

I'm a west systems user. 

 

I always have G/Flex on hand. Use it for almost everything. 

[st1800e]

My curing clubs sit on the workbench overnight, under a heat lamp.   I use a Digital thermometer to check ive got it set up properly, about 100 deg is good.   

[russian7]

10 hours ago, st1800e said:

My curing clubs sit on the workbench overnight, under a heat lamp.   I use a Digital thermometer to check ive got it set up properly, about 100 deg is good.   

All of these methods to heat cure don't melt the ferrules?

[st1800e]

Won’t melt if you keep the heat level to appropriate levels as mentioned.  Why I use the digital thermometer to check. 

[johngalt312]

I only use 3M DP460 or DP460NS along with this https://www.golfworks.com/auditor-programmable-epoxy-cure-system-3/p/gm1042/ and the DP460 is ready after an hour at 140* whereas the DP460NS is ready after 15 minutes at 160* (though I always go an hour as well).

[russian7]

On 10/9/2023 at 7:10 PM, johngalt312 said:

I only use 3M DP460 or DP460NS along with this https://www.golfworks.com/auditor-programmable-epoxy-cure-system-3/p/gm1042/ and the DP460 is ready after an hour at 140* whereas the DP460NS is ready after 15 minutes at 160* (though I always go an hour as well).

So even though it's a 24-hour cure it's hittable in an hour if the temperature is at what you mentioned? What temperature begins to melt the ferrules

[russian7]

On 10/8/2023 at 11:16 AM, Nessism said:

Please don't blindly follow some crappola advice you read on the internet, even if it comes from someone like ME.  It's critical for you to judge how hot the clubs are getting, and make adjustments based on your specific setup.

 

I use three 2x6 board chunks, arranged around the clubs, with one across the top, then I set my heat gun on low, lay it on the ground from about 2' away, and let it blow into an opening in the boards.  You need to make sure to arrange the clubs, and angle the blower, so it dosen't blast the hell out of the first club in the row, closest to the nozzle.  Use indirect heat.  Reach inside your makeshift enclosure and touch the club heads.  150 will be hot to the touch, but it won't burn you.  Don't go hotter than this.  If the clubs feel really hot, push back the blower, or angle it differently.  And be sure to check all the clubs in your box; you don't want the front ones hot, and the others cool.  Look for even temp.

With the cartridge gun 10:1 and 3m dp, you also nees the gun 10:1 disposable mixing tips? The tip creates the correct mix right?

[Phabs]

3 hours ago, russian7 said:

With the cartridge gun 10:1 and 3m dp, you also nees the gun 10:1 disposable mixing tips? The tip creates the correct mix right?

No …. No tips.  Just the gun and adhesive like I listed. 

[NRJyzr]

On 10/6/2023 at 10:57 PM, Arlin964 said:

I am another 3M DP8410NS success story. Follow @Nessism’s instructions and you will be good. 
 

 

I also jumped into the 8410NS sandbox after the recs from Brother Nessism.  And am pleased at the results.

 

[Socrates]

10 hours ago, russian7 said:

So even though it's a 24-hour cure it's hittable in an hour if the temperature is at what you mentioned? What temperature begins to melt the ferrules

 

10 hours ago, russian7 said:

With the cartridge gun 10:1 and 3m dp, you also nees the gun 10:1 disposable mixing tips? The tip creates the correct mix right?

Ferrules take quite a bit of heat to melt.  Typically far higher than you should ever get the hosels.

 

I did away with the mixing tips a long time ago.  The tips are great if you are in an industrial setting and using tons of epoxy.  Otherwise, you will waste 1/4 of your epoxy in the tips.  Squeeze it out onto a piece of plastic or cardboard and mix THOROUGHLY. 

[russian7]

11 minutes ago, Socrates said:

 

Ferrules take quite a bit of heat to melt.  Typically far higher than you should ever get the hosels.

 

I did away with the mixing tips a long time ago.  The tips are great if you are in an industrial setting and using tons of epoxy.  Otherwise, you will waste 1/4 of your epoxy in the tips.  Squeeze it out onto a piece of plastic or cardboard and mix THOROUGHLY. 

I'm new to using the gun so the cartridge and gun do the proper ratio for you so I don't need the mixing tips I can essentially just squeeze it out and mix and it comes out in the proper mixture?

[NRJyzr]

4 minutes ago, russian7 said:

I'm new to using the gun so the cartridge and gun do the proper ratio for you so I don't need the mixing tips I can essentially just squeeze it out and mix and it comes out in the proper mixture?

 

What I do is a very small squeeze at the start, into a paper towel, to make sure both parts are flowing before I dispense what I'm intending to use.  I've found over the years that, occasionally, one of the parts is a little slower at the start (of dispensing product).

 

Once that's done, full steam ahead.  The gun takes care of it.

 

[Socrates]

3 minutes ago, russian7 said:

I'm new to using the gun so the cartridge and gun do the proper ratio for you so I don't need the mixing tips I can essentially just squeeze it out and mix and it comes out in the proper mixture?

Absolutely.  The tips just do the mixing, not create the ratio.  That is done as soon as it is squeezed out of the barrels with the proper gun. 

Created so that in industrials settings, as long as they used the mixing tips, they will get a proper mix of the two parts.  Idiot proof.  At least until they get a better idiot.

[johngalt312]

13 hours ago, russian7 said:

So even though it's a 24-hour cure it's hittable in an hour if the temperature is at what you mentioned? What temperature begins to melt the ferrules

For irons/wedges/putters I prefer and use 3M DP460 (better shear strength for the substrate types) and correct, after one hour at 140* F in the machine the clubs are done/ready to hit.

 

The cure time is accelerated by the heat; 3M has technical data sheets that provide all of the cure time temperature specifics.

 

3M DP460 and DP460NS are expensive toughened epoxies that exceed the minimum shear strength requirements for golf clubs and are even used in the aviation industry, etc., but as I only build for myself/friends/day job clients (not golf industry), why not use the best of the best regardless of cost.

 

As for ferrule melting temperature(s), I don’t know, and while I could certainly test it, even 160* F for two hours doesn’t impact them.

Edited October 13, 2023 by johngalt312

[johngalt312]

Ventus built for one of my employees (for his Stealth 2) - I prefer the wooden sticks for stirring epoxy (I hand mix for a timed two minutes), but decided to try the spatula since I have had it in my toolbox for years.  I also still prefer to hand sand graphite shafts’ tips.

 

Edited October 13, 2023 by johngalt312

[Phabs]

18 minutes ago, johngalt312 said:

Ventus built for one of my employees (for his Stealth 2) - I prefer the wooden sticks for stirring epoxy (I hand mix for a timed two minutes), but decided to try the spatula since I have had it in my toolbox for years.  I also still prefer to hand sand graphite shafts’ tips.

 

Where do you find the sanding cartriges small enough for hosels?  Or do you tear them down to fit ? 

[rbpwrx]

I believe the tour van oven is set at approx 375°, and cures 24hr epoxy in minutes, so maybe that's not too hot for ferrules (or maybe they protect it somehow).
My own process (mostly for quick test irons, but works so well, I'm starting to use it for permanent builds, with no ill effects so far) is:

- apply well-mixed epoxy to shaft tip first, with ferrule already slid up;

- THEN heat hosel alone with mini torch for a few seconds;

- THEN apply rest of epoxy inside hosel, stir it around a couple seconds to evenly apply, insert shaft, tap the grip end to fully seat, spin the head to distribute epoxy even better, fine tune alignment, and you're good.

Temps are probably in the 300° range, ish. I hold the head in my naked hand, just heating the hosel. Epoxy will start to set w/in 30 sec at those temps (or even faster with quicker formulations), so you have to move smooth but quick. Having everything laid out helps.
One advantage of this method is: no direct heat applied to the ferrule. Onward!
 

Edited October 13, 2023 by rbpwrx

[johngalt312]

12 minutes ago, Phabs said:

Where do you find the sanding cartriges small enough for hosels?  Or do you tear them down to fit ? 

GOLFWORKS sells them specifically for this purpose - plug and play.

[Nessism]

3 hours ago, johngalt312 said:

GOLFWORKS sells them specifically for this purpose - plug and play.

 

1/4" OD cartridge rolls work well.  And don't forget the acetone/MEK wash after abrading.

 

For the shaft, a roll of this stuff is great to have on hand as well.  Its cloth backed, and so much easier to use than paper sandpaper.

 

[Phabs]

Just now, Nessism said:

 

1/4" OD cartridge rolls work well.  And don't forget the acetone/MEK wash after abrading.

 

For the shaft, a roll of this stuff is great to have on hand as well.  Its cloth backed, and so much easier to use than paper sandpaper.

 

The 1/4’s I got are tight up at the top of the hosel.  I’ll have to tear the top of the roll down some so it fits comfortably 

[Nessism]

1 hour ago, Phabs said:

The 1/4’s I got are tight up at the top of the hosel.  I’ll have to tear the top of the roll down some so it fits comfortably 

 

These are the ones that I bought.  They fit well and last a long time.  

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0089QFIA4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

[johngalt312]

Cannot put a price on convenience for the GOLFWORKS premade sanding sleeves.

 

I always acetone wash the adapter/hosel and the tip end of the shaft, as I haven’t been able to easily source MEK.

 

From where are you getting MEK?

[Phabs]

13 minutes ago, johngalt312 said:

Cannot put a price on convenience for the GOLFWORKS premade sanding sleeves.

 

I always acetone wash the adapter/hosel and the tip end of the shaft, as I haven’t been able to easily source MEK.

 

From where are you getting MEK?

I’d stay with acetone.  MEK is nasty stuff, we use to use it to treat race car slicks.  Everything known to man that causes cancer is in it 

[rbpwrx]

7 minutes ago, Phabs said:

I’d stay with acetone.  MEK is nasty stuff, we use to use it to treat race car slicks.  Everything known to man that causes cancer is in it 

Dudes. You don't need either. A mechanical cleaning of the inside hosel is fine. Wire brush in a drill. If you absolutely must use a chemical for OCD, use alcohol. Drives just as quick, won't give you glioblastoma. Vinegar, of course, for cleaning up any wet epoxy.

[sui generis]

13 minutes ago, rbpwrx said:

use alcohol

 

That's been my clean up for more than forty years, though I've no doubt that other stuff will cut the grease just fine, too.

[johngalt312]

Have before used 99% isopropyl and worked fine/no discernible difference, but stick with acetone.  Would still like to give MEK a try.

[Nessism]

1 hour ago, rbpwrx said:

Dudes. You don't need either. A mechanical cleaning of the inside hosel is fine. Wire brush in a drill. If you absolutely must use a chemical for OCD, use alcohol. Drives just as quick, won't give you glioblastoma. Vinegar, of course, for cleaning up any wet epoxy.

Wrong.  A wire brush smears the hosel with all kinds of foreign material.  It doesn't clean it effectively.  For degreasing, alcohol is okay, but it's very mild.  Acetone is more effective, and MEK is better yet.  Why do you think professional companies like 3M recommend MEK?  

[CircleC29]

I have a 3m epoxy gun but only have 1:1 and 2:1 plungers, can I buy just a 10:1 plunger for my 3m gun? Or does that require a different gun? Thanks. 

Edited October 14, 2023 by CircleC29