JB Weld Quick Epoxy ? If you had 1 epoxy only to rely on??

[russian7]

A bunch of guys on here said this was a go to so I moved from Brampton to this and had much better results with irons and ferrules staying tight w/out issues.

 

I am wondering on graphite whats everyones thoughts with a higher breakdown temp? 

 

I just had my 1st go at using it and then pulling an adapter and it required much more heat which ruined the paint on adapter and was way harder to get off.

 

QUICK SET GO TO...

What is everyones absolute go to for reliability and Zero failures??

 

Thanks.

Edited October 2 by russian7

[Righty to Lefty]

I would use it for a ferrule no problem but I use the 24 hour one for my irons and such as it has a much higher bonding strength.  It does set very fast though and you have to move fast once you mix it up as it takes only a couple mins to begin to cure. 

[sui generis]

Let's see. I want to find a suitable epoxy for golf club building and club repair. 🙂

 

Should I buy something purposely made for the task from a reputible company in the golf business or should I go to the local hardware store and buy whatever is the cheapest? 🙄

[CTG77]

I am sold on the GolfWorks Maximum Strength Tour Set Plus Beaded Epoxy for my builds.  Using the GolfWorks spring-loaded shaft extractor, I barely apply any heat to get a shaft / head or shaft / adapter apart.  Combine that with 0 failures since I started building clubs for me (6'4" / 220+ hockey player with 110 driver swing speed), my son (6'3" / 200 hockey player with 115 driver swing speed), and my wife, and I am convinced it's the best overall epoxy.  Add in the ease of using the dispenser gun that makes the 2:1 mix ratio perfectly (which is, I think, the true key here is not screwing up the epoxy / hardener mix), and it's an even better overall choice in my mind.  I made my wife's set the 1st time w/ some used Recoil shafts that were lighter than her steel shafts in her old Ping irons, but I did a terrible job of it (inconsistent shaft rotation and terrible ferrule installations).  Despite none of them failing, I wanted to give her a nicer looking set and rebuilt them with some BB&F Steve Rogers ferrules this summer. She's a Captain America fan (maybe obsessed a little bit w/ Cap...or a lot), so she loved the new build and consistent iron play has been her strong suit this summer, so I guess my rebuild was worth it.

[russian7]

2 hours ago, sui generis said:

Let's see. I want to find a suitable epoxy for golf club building and club repair. 🙂

 

Should I buy something purposely made for the task from a reputible company in the golf business or should I go to the local hardware store and buy whatever is the cheapest? 🙄

Lots of builders use the jb products in caseyou didn't realize that,many threads on here to support that. I used brampton for years and had lots of fails with meticulous prepping

[Phabs]

I had a similar issue and killed a 300 dollar velocore for a buddy - never again.

 

3M DP8410NS from here on out - 60 bucks for the gun and a cartridge never have to worry about mixtures or ruining shafts again.   I can buy about 5 years worth of adhesive for what that dead velocore cost me to replace 

Edited October 2 by Phabs

[sui generis]

6 minutes ago, russian7 said:

Lots of builders use the jb products in caseyou didn't realize that,many threads on here to support that. I used brampton for years and had lots of fails with meticulous prepping

 

Okay, suit yourself. Garage builders and hobbyists do lots of goofy things and get away with it. 😉

[russian7]

1 minute ago, sui generis said:

 

Okay, suit yourself. Garage builders and hobbyists do lots of goofy things and get away with it. 😉

I only bought it to try after a bunch of recommendations on here, what do you use? Brampton was mediocre at best I'm meticulously prepped lots of clubs and ferals would always slide up even when I sanded and several heads came loose over the years

[Phabs]

2 minutes ago, russian7 said:

I only bought it to try after a bunch of recommendations on here, what do you use? Brampton was mediocre at best I'm meticulously prepped lots of clubs and ferals would always slide up even when I sanded and several heads came loose over the years

https://www.ebay.com/itm/145078286847

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/115535344300

 

Buy those two and you'll never have to even think about it again. 

[sui generis]

GolfWorks Tour Set Plus Epoxy and, at times, GolfWorks Maximum Strength Quick Set Epoxy. I have used GolfWorks epoxy products exclusively since I went to their club making and repair school in 1980.

[russian7]

21 minutes ago, Phabs said:

I had a similar issue and killed a 300 dollar velocore for a buddy - never again.

 

3M DP8410NS from here on out - 60 bucks for the gun and a cartridge never have to worry about mixtures or ruining shafts again.   I can buy about 5 years worth of adhesive for what that dead velocore cost me to replace 

Which color on amazon i see diff kinds an none with the gun

[Phabs]

12 minutes ago, Phabs said:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/145078286847

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/115535344300

 

Buy those two and you'll never have to even think about it again. 

@russian7

[russian7]

14 minutes ago, sui generis said:

GolfWorks Tour Set Plus Epoxy and, at times, GolfWorks Maximum Strength Quick Set Epoxy. I have used GolfWorks epoxy products exclusively since I went to their club making and repair school in 1980.

I like quik set options and hate waiting 24 hr cure times is the golf works quick cure good and on amazon?

[Phabs]

17 hours ago, russian7 said:

I like quik set options and hate waiting 24 hr cure times is the golf works quick cure good and on amazon?

The 3M stuff is hittable in 4-5 hours if you heat cure it.  Aka just set it outside in the sun or put a heat blanket on the adapter 

Edited October 3 by Phabs

[kwcsports]

I've used Golfsmith then Golfworks 24 hour for 37 years and never had a failure.

What's the rush ? 

[Valtiel]

59 minutes ago, Phabs said:

I had a similar issue and killed a 300 dollar velocore for a buddy - never again.

 

3M DP8410NS from here on out - 60 bucks for the gun and a cartridge never have to worry about mixtures or ruining shafts again.   I can buy about 5 years worth of adhesive for what that dead velocore cost me to replace 

This ^^

If you're ever asking the "if you had 1 epoxy only to rely on?" question, there is no doubt from a technical standpoint that it's the high strength 3M Acrylic adhesives. @Nessism can weigh in as well, but the gist is that these types of adhesives are extremely strong, flexible, and FAR more tolerant to a wider variety of prep and surface conditions than traditional two part epoxies. 

Lots of things can work "fine", plenty of people will swear by some Gorilla Glue stuff they found at Walmart, but if you actually want to dig into the specs and consider all the variables and potential points of failure then the data is clear that you go with the "good" stuff ala 3M. Also if you want shorter curing times for convenience it is even MORE clear that the correct path is heat curing a 12-24hr epoxy over opting for "quick" epoxies. Heat curing not only speeds the process significantly, but it makes the cure stronger on average whereas "quick" epoxies themselves actually tend to be *weaker* on average. 

Edited October 2 by Valtiel

[russian7]

2 minutes ago, Valtiel said:

This ^^

If you're ever asking the "if you had 1 epoxy only to rely on?" question, there is no doubt from a technical standpoint that it's the high strength 3M Acrylic adhesives. @Nessism can weigh in as well, but the gist is that these types of adhesives are extreme strong, flexible, and FAR more tolerant to a wider variety of prep and surface conditions than traditional two part epoxies. 

Lots of things can work "fine", plenty of people will swear by some Gorilla Glue stuff they found at Walmart, but if you actually want to dig into the specs and consider all the variables and potential points of failure then the data is clear. Also if you want shorter curing times for convenience it is even MORE clear that the correct path is heat curing a 12-24hr epoxy over opting for "quick" epoxies. Heat curing not only speeds the process significantly, but it makes the cure stronger on average whereas "quick" epoxies themselves actually tend to be *weaker* on average. 

What is the process to heat cure

[RCGA]

I switched to JB Weld this year after an entire set of irons failing using Bramptons. 

 

I'd consider something more exotic like DP8410NS, but I can't find a local source in Canada.

 

[Phabs]

7 minutes ago, russian7 said:

What is the process to heat cure

Set it outside in the sun.  Or put a heat blanket set to low wrapped around the adapter . I use a heat blanket  

Edited October 2 by Phabs

[Valtiel]

6 minutes ago, russian7 said:

What is the process to heat cure

Lots of things you can do, the goal is to get the joint/adaptor up to 140-150* for about 60min. You can use a heat gun/hair dryer pointed at it in a safe place, ideally you build a small dam around it to trap the heat with something like wood blocks. You can also place the assembly in a window with direct sunlight as that can get QUITE hot on it's own. My favorite version of this is the "car dashboard on a summer day" as the metal can easily get up to 140* in there. What you're shooting for is this:



The liquid -> gel -> solid progression is dependent on temperature as shown, and higher temps get you there faster and more completely with zero drawbacks, as long as the temps don't get insane. Taylormade has a heat curing machine on the tour trucks that fully cures 24hr epoxy in like 2-3 minutes @350*, but obviously that requires special equipment. At 150* you're cured in around 60-90 minutes. 

[st1800e]

20 minutes ago, RCGA said:

I'd consider something more exotic like DP8410NS, but I can't find a local source in Canada.

I can’t either, would be good to have a local source, 

[Nessism]

3 hours ago, russian7 said:

Lots of builders use the jb products in caseyou didn't realize that,many threads on here to support that. I used brampton for years and had lots of fails with meticulous prepping

 

Describe "meticulous prepping?"

 

Edit:  This is "meticulous prepping..."

 

1) When first pulling the head, use a stainless steel wire brush tool, on a drill motor, along with a small screwdriver or scraping tool, and remove all visible epoxy out of the hosel.  Same for the shaft.  It's much easier to remove the epoxy while it's hot.

 

2) Wash out the hosel ID using MEK or acetone.  Cotton swabs are great for this.  Wipe the inside of the hosel until a fresh swab comes out clean.

 

3) Abrade the ID of the hosel using a 100 grit sandpaper roll sleeve on a rotating mandrel.  Similar on the shaft OD, but regular sandpaper is fine.

 

4) Wash out the hosel ID using MEK or acetone AGAIN.  Wipe until clean.

 

5) Allow the solvent to properly evaporate, and the club will be read for assembly.

 

Of course, there is more than just this when it comes to getting a proper bond.  The shaft should be properly spaced in the hosel, using shims, collared ferrules, etc, as required.  And don't go cheap on the epoxy.  I personally don't like Bramptons epoxy because it's thin and runny.  It can slide out of the joint before firming up.  3M is the gold standard.  There are many options including true "epoxy" options like DP420/460, or acrylic adhesive choices as well.  All are miles better than gorilla epoxy or JB Weld.

 

 

 

Edited October 2 by Nessism

[Socrates]

1 hour ago, russian7 said:

What is the process to heat cure

Heat curing can speed up 24 hr epoxy to about an hour.   Chart below.  It doesn't take much to get the temp up to 140°.  I've used a heat gun set to low about 2 ft away and I've placed clubs in the sun against a wall and had them cured in about an hour.  The trick is to not use an excessive amount of epoxy as it will expand a little and if you use too much, it will leak out between the hosel and the ferrule and it's a bugger to get that off as it is fully cured.  I much prefer to just let epoxy cure at room temp and in 8 hours I can handle it and the next morning I can hit it.

 

FWIW, use whatever epoxy you want, just follow the directions.  And once it is setting up, DON'T MOVE THE CLUB or you will get a failure.  JB Weld is great stuff until you want to take it apart.  Some have really high break down temps and that's a problem.

 

 

[Valtiel]

8 minutes ago, Socrates said:

The trick is to not use an excessive amount of epoxy as it will expand a little and if you use too much, it will leak out between the hosel and the ferrule and it's a bugger to get that off as it is fully cured. 

Me with the adaptor everytime I forget that...

[goje22]

4 hours ago, Phabs said:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/145078286847

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/115535344300

 

Buy those two and you'll never have to even think about it again. 

Literally all you need to read on this thread ^^ 

DP8410ns is what tour trucks and the best builders use. 
 

JB weld products work great for bonding but many premium carbon fiber components don’t stay in one adapter or head forever. Definitely do not use + try to remove JB Weld for a bonded hosel fairway or hybrid. 
 

DP8410ns + 10:1 dispenser gun + a makeshift heat chamber for 90min = no failures. And no permanent epoxy requiring damage to parts. 

[Pnwpingi210]

3m dp810.  No failures hittable in a couple of hours at 75 degrees.  With heat 30 mins.  Easy to work with and cleans up nice.

[TwistedSister]

Go to WalMart and get some Gorilla Glue 2 part epoxy.  3000lb strength. 6 bucks!

[AmateurAmateur]

[russian7]

5 hours ago, Valtiel said:

Lots of things you can do, the goal is to get the joint/adaptor up to 140-150* for about 60min. You can use a heat gun/hair dryer pointed at it in a safe place, ideally you build a small dam around it to trap the heat with something like wood blocks. You can also place the assembly in a window with direct sunlight as that can get QUITE hot on it's own. My favorite version of this is the "car dashboard on a summer day" as the metal can easily get up to 140* in there. What you're shooting for is this:



The liquid -> gel -> solid progression is dependent on temperature as shown, and higher temps get you there faster and more completely with zero drawbacks, as long as the temps don't get insane. Taylormade has a heat curing machine on the tour trucks that fully cures 24hr epoxy in like 2-3 minutes @350*, but obviously that requires special equipment. At 150* you're cured in around 60-90 minutes. 

So you can use 24hr cure and just set in front of a space heater and likely be ready in a few hours?

[jacobanderson123]

Consensus on 3m 810 as opposed to 8410?