Low Bounce lob wedge

[Eazy Mac]

I moved out to Colorado from Virginia a couple years ago and had some 10-12 bounce CBX wedges at the time. After a few rounds in CO I literally sold them and bought some with lower bounces (6-8 range) because i could not get the CBX's to work on the firm, dry turf we have out here. The 58/6 RTX4 and 60/6 T20 wedges I've used since then have been real game changers.

Edited February 27 by Eazy Mac

[theothertwo]

I still use my old Cleveland TA Reg 588 60* lob wedge with a 3* bounce in the summer when we have a lot of tight lies.  I've used this wedge for years I guess I kind of mastered it.  I always believe in playing a mid/high bounce SW and a low bounce LW because of my familiarity with the old Cleveland 588s.  The SW has a 14* bounce.

[bobfoster]

20 hours ago, Pepperturbo said:

People make all sorts of strange choices about clubs.  IMO, one-dimensional use is what you're doing with that M 60'/10.  You would better suite your game by learning how to use that club effectively, on all sorts of turf conditions, thus squelching your feelings of anxiety.  The other problem that will happen is at some juncture, you will forget the club when you need it most. 

 

My way, I don't need to concern myself with an additional club, but necessitates practice.  My 46' PW has progressive bounce, and SM9 M58/8 LW and F52/12, regardless of conditions, have a low or medium bounce club.  Whatever you do, good luck with it.

That's the right way to look at things IMO. If I had a club I only used out of sand, it would be wasted space in the bag. I'm only in the sand (on average) maybe two or three times during any round (and depending upon the course, not uncommonly go rounds without being on the beach at all). I only carry three wedges - they all need to be able do a wide variety of things. 

 

I use a 46/6, 52/10, 58/12. This thread is fascinating - sounds like I'm playing more bounce than some of the folks here. I do practice with wedges a lot (sometimes devote entire practice sessions to hitting one wedge a bunch of different ways). Seems rational. Over half the strokes on a scorecard are likely to be made with those three wedges and the putter, so it just makes sense to me to get very good with them. 

 

I will mention (since this thread is diving into details), that I think there's a difference between numerical bounce (the bounce number on the OEM spec sheets), and "functional" bounce - how you can play the club. And functional bounce depends as much on the grind as it does the bounce number. Is one of the things I love about the Miuras I've been playing. The grind is brilliant.

 

The numerical bounce number is going to be determined by swinging with neutral grip and stance. If I'm using my 52/10 on normal turf, the 10* of bounce is fine. However, if I lean the shaft forward, and move the ball back a bit in my stance, I could almost pick a ball cleanly off a cart path (or hard dirt anyway - I'd never hit off a cart path). It is what I like about the Miura grind, I find it extremely versatile. The bounce is there when I want it, but I can eliminate some, or almost all of it if I need to. (Yes, I know this is to some degree true with all wedges, but I just have found the Miuras to be particularly flexible and responsive in this regard.)

 

Just thought I'd throw this out there. IMO finding the right grind for your wedge game is every bit as important as the right loft/bounce. 

 

 

[Pepperturbo]

7 minutes ago, bobfoster said:

That's the right way to look at things IMO. If I had a club I only used out of sand, it would be wasted space in the bag. I'm only in the sand (on average) maybe two or three times during any round (and depending upon the course, not uncommonly go rounds without being on the beach at all). I only carry three wedges - they all need to be able do a wide variety of things. 

 

I use a 46/6, 52/10, 58/12. This thread is fascinating - sounds like I'm playing more bounce than some of the folks here. I do practice with wedges a lot (sometimes devote entire practice sessions to hitting one wedge a bunch of different ways). Seems rational. Over half the strokes on a scorecard are likely to be made with those three wedges and the putter, so it just makes sense to me to get very good with them. 

 

I will mention (since this thread is diving into details), that I think there's a difference between numerical bounce (the bounce number on the OEM spec sheets), and "functional" bounce - how you can play the club. And functional bounce depends as much on the grind as it does the bounce number. Is one of the things I love about the Miuras I've been playing. The grind is brilliant.

 

The numerical bounce number is going to be determined by swinging with neutral grip and stance. If I'm using my 52/10 on normal turf, the 10* of bounce is fine. However, if I lean the shaft forward, and move the ball back a bit in my stance, I could almost pick a ball cleanly off a cart path (or hard dirt anyway - I'd never hit off a cart path). It is what I like about the Miura grind, I find it extremely versatile. The bounce is there when I want it, but I can eliminate some, or almost all of it if I need to. (Yes, I know this is to some degree true with all wedges, but I just have found the Miuras to be particularly flexible and responsive in this regard.)

 

Just thought I'd throw this out there. IMO finding the right grind for your wedge game is every bit as important as the right loft/bounce. 

 

 

Though I am not a big user of high bounce, I effectively use it when needed.  Titleist says my T100 PW at 46' has progressive bounce, I figure that means 8 at the heel, 10' at the toe, and M58' has 8' of bounce, and F52' has 12' of bounce, but opening the face of either, have no idea what the effective bounce is.  

 

From what I've seen, most people don't know how to identify different aspects of grind, or how to use that grind aspect, much less what type of grind fits their swing.

[Kiing_Zero]

Other pros like Rory have switched to more bounce unless playing links or very firm conditions.. playing mostly Bermuda, I don’t see an advantage for any am to use low bounce lob.. maybe if you play a very baked out course.. 

[DaveGoodrich]

I think of the low bounce lob wedge as a specialty tool, and use it sparingly. The trick is not to ask it to do things it's not good at. But it can be enough of a weapon, and a savior, in the conditions I play, to make it worth carrying. 

[bobfoster]

5 hours ago, Kiing_Zero said:

Other pros like Rory have switched to more bounce unless playing links or very firm conditions.. playing mostly Bermuda, I don’t see an advantage for any am to use low bounce lob.. maybe if you play a very baked out course.. 

Totally agree. You can get a bit more precision with low bounce wedges off tight lies, but in most conditions they aren't needed, and a bit more bounce is simply much more forgiving. I did live in Houston for a few years (over two decades ago), and did have lower bounce wedges (and I noticed a lot of locals on public courses did) - in the summer especially a lot of the fairways would be positively scorched. Days at a time with temps in the high 90s, and even the lows in the mid to high 80s. Three or four months of nothing but hot, and slightly less hot. Was a serious digger before I lived there, had to learn to be a picker. Seriously different approach to not only your swing, but your club choices. 

 

Happy I was forced out of my comfort zone and needed to learn to play off parched dirt. An added tool in my toolbelt. But in truth, by druthers are to play the long but sparse and deep rooted bentgrass of the north. I like hitting down hard with an upright swing taking a "clean-up on aisle 5" divot. Can't do that on Texas hardpan. 

 

Optimal wedge selection is 100% about turf interaction. And that is largely determined by the actual turf. 

[EddieEdwards]

I like high bounce, with a grind that allows it to be opened a little, 58/12 D grind.  Most of us shouldn't be laying it wide open and hitting flop shots.  On longer shots it's less likely to catch it a groove high slide under the ball leaving it 10 yrds short.

[NZ315]

I got 58-08M and 58-12D depending on course and ground conditions for which one is in play. Anything lower bounce than 8 you better be able to control your swing. I mostly use the 12D since I am a bit steep in my swing

[geauxt]

Living in central Texas, everything is basically hardpan for 75% of the year. Low bounce lob is a necessity. 

[keith723]

54.12D in sand wedge and 60.08M for lob but also will carry the 60.04T around here and there.  60.04T does great in AZ with firm conditions but played in Chicago last summer and it just wanted to dig if I didn't deliver it perfectly, cost me a few shots.  Definitely need more practice to make it work in soft conditions but it does just fine on my home tracks in the desert.

[bgfgolf]

On 2/29/2024 at 10:17 AM, geauxt said:

Living in central Texas, everything is basically hardpan for 75% of the year. Low bounce lob is a necessity. 

Also in Georgia during the winter when the grass is dormant. Fairways are very tight to the ground and often soft. Low bounce makes it easier to catch the ball clean because once it hits that turf it’s sticking, high bounce or no.

 

when the grass is growing and longer, if it’s soft I’d probably use a higher bounce, but not when it’s as tight as a green.

Edited March 9 by bgfgolf

[1puttTUT]

I play a 58/12 and have no problem hitting lofted shots off tight lies. 

 

Maybe if I exclusively played firm fast courses then a lower bounce wedge would make sense, but I'll happily take the more versatile club without feeling like I'm sacrificing anything. 

[bazzle18]

On 2/29/2024 at 12:40 PM, keith723 said:

54.12D in sand wedge and 60.08M for lob but also will carry the 60.04T around here and there.  60.04T does great in AZ with firm conditions but played in Chicago last summer and it just wanted to dig if I didn't deliver it perfectly, cost me a few shots.  Definitely need more practice to make it work in soft conditions but it does just fine on my home tracks in the desert.

Just wanting to pick your (and everyone else's) brain here a little, particularly regarding the 54 D grind.

 

I've been experimenting with the lower bounce lob wedge so far this year, and have been loving the results so far hitting higher, softer landing pitches from firm, tight turf.  

 

My issue with the lower bounce lob wedge has been moreso with bunker play.  While it's not bad, I definitely prefer the higher bounce M grind lob wedge from the heavy sand that we have at my home club.

 

I'm debating if changing the grind/bounce options on my sand wedge can be more advantageous and utilized more from bunkers than I currently use it.  Particularly, I'm interested in the 54 D or M.  If you have any insight, I'd be interested in hearing that.

 

Currently play the 54 F with 14 bounce, using it mostly for 90-105 yard shots and the occasional longer greenside bunker shot.

[Chunkitgood]

A lob wedge is for lobbing, a sand wedge for the sand.  One has low bounce and the other high.  Can you really ask why?

[bazzle18]

Was more interested in hearing opinions on D grind vs F grind in the sand wedge, particularly in regards to bunker play but also in full swing shots.

 

I've played probably 99% of greenside bunker shots over the last 20 years with a lob wedge, so going to a sand wedge for these shots would be a definite adjustment for me

[keith723]

On 4/26/2024 at 10:27 AM, bazzle18 said:

Just wanting to pick your (and everyone else's) brain here a little, particularly regarding the 54 D grind.

 

I've been experimenting with the lower bounce lob wedge so far this year, and have been loving the results so far hitting higher, softer landing pitches from firm, tight turf.  

 

My issue with the lower bounce lob wedge has been moreso with bunker play.  While it's not bad, I definitely prefer the higher bounce M grind lob wedge from the heavy sand that we have at my home club.

 

I'm debating if changing the grind/bounce options on my sand wedge can be more advantageous and utilized more from bunkers than I currently use it.  Particularly, I'm interested in the 54 D or M.  If you have any insight, I'd be interested in hearing that.

 

Currently play the 54 F with 14 bounce, using it mostly for 90-105 yard shots and the occasional longer greenside bunker shot.

Hello,

F grind should be great out of bunkers but I agree with how Vokey markets the D grind as the players high bounce wedge.  It has good trailing edge relief vs. F and more comfortable opening it up but still has the bounce to play any shot effectively - I think where it shines on square and open face chips/pitches alike is how the leading edge isn't as flat as the M grind or the F grind on the sole - the leading edge sits tighter to the turf (similar to a pre-worn leading edge) which makes it easier for me to catch the D grind crisp.

 

For the SM10, ordered the 60.08M with a pre-worn leading edge to get similar feel since the M sole is more flat back to front, where D grind, again, leading edge more pointed to the turf. 

 

For 54 or 56 the D grind does it all.  Too much bounce in the 60, plus the sole is a bit wider on the 60 D, so sticking with the M grind there but hoping the minor change with the pre-worn leading edge makes it a closer to the D grind with the lower bounce I want out of the 60.

 

Just my opinion but SM10's seem to be a little thicker on the leading edge so got the pre-worn for both 54D and 60M on the SM10s.  Hoping to have them soon but 54D has been in the bag for quite a while now in SM8 and SM9 variants, it's very good for me.

[ago33]

a low bounce lob wedge is really only necessary on hard pan fairways and 14 stimp greens with big slopes