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Wedge Shafts (Weight & Flex) vs. Iron Shafts


RobYakes

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Hey guys, I know this topic has been discussed many times before but I'd like to get your opinions on what wedge shafts you guys use versus your iron shafts. Only interested in weight and flex. Looking at the top-10 OWGR, you see a few different schools of thought:

 

**4 Players have wedge shafts the same as irons (Bryson, Molinari, Rahm, Xander).

3 Players have wedge shafts that are heavier & softer than their irons (Brooks, JT, Rickie).

2 Players have wedge shafts that are lighter & softer than their irons (DJ, Rory).

1 Player has wedge shafts that are heavier & stiffer than their irons (Rose).**

_(this is my own WITB research so I very well may be wrong. Also, I know the uncut weight of S400s vs. X100 are only 2g different so in reality Brooks and JT are probably playing wedges with about the same weight as their irons, just softer)_

 

I understand the thinking of playing wedge shafts a bit softer than irons for better feel on touch shots and chips (possibly just soft-stepping them), but want to see if there's any correlation between what route you went with wedge shaft weight/flex and how you play your wedges?

 

For example, I play Modus 105S in my irons (106.5g uncut) and have PING's AWT 2.0 Wedge shafts (118g uncut) in my 50*/54*/58* wedges. Like the extra weight to help me flight the ball down and love the AWT 2.0's for touch shots but they're too soft for me when I try to take full swings (tend to leave the clubface open at contact, resulting in shots short and left vs. aiming point, I'm LH). As a result, I will more likely than not hit a knock down PW instead of a full gap wedge (50*). Wanted to know if anyone else has tried going to a stiffer flex in wedges vs. irons (like Rosey) and how has that worked out?

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Yes. I have KBS C-Taper X in my wedges (same as my entire iron set).

They might flight the ball down a little, but I just did for the consistent feel. The weight is a good feel to me.

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Could the AWT's be too heavy? I would think too soft would result in more pulls than leaving the face open. Also, Ping doesn't post a lot about these shafts but I believe they are very low torque (I have 1.3 recorded from past info they've posted), and would have guessed that they play at least as strong as your iron shafts.

 

I'm not sure that you will collect responses that are that different from the data you've posted on the top 10. I prefer the same or same/softer. That being said, my highest lofted wedge is currently heavier and stiffer. But I only really use this club for greenside shots where the shaft isn't flexing/loading much anyways, so I don't think it really matters. No doubt the feel is different, but I think it's impact on the actual shot is not very large (unless your mind makes it out to be a big deal, which can and does happen).

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I also had the Ping Glides. Best touch shot wedges I've used but they simply did not work for full swings for me. I use S400 in my wedges and have AMT Tour whites in my irons. Very similar though not much difference between S300 and S400. I wish I had my irons in AMT tour white X100 though rather than s300 I spin the s*** out of them.

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  • 2 months later...

I think there's a lot to be said for uniformity throughout the set and it seems logical. However, I don't think it really matters as top golfers can go from lightweight graphite to heavyweight steel in their iron set makeup. And for example, lets say you're playing a Driver ,SW, short par 4, in this instance you go from say a 60 gram graphite shafted driver to a 130gram steel SW with no issues at all.

As it only really matters to you I'd say find what feels comfortable and stick with it.

Whatever works.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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> @vman said:

> I think there's a lot to be said for uniformity throughout the set and it seems logical. However, I don't think it really matters as top golfers can go from lightweight graphite to heavyweight steel in their iron set makeup. And for example, lets say you're playing a Driver ,SW, short par 4, in this instance you go from say a 60 gram graphite shafted driver to a 130gram steel SW with no issues at all.

> As it only really matters to you I'd say find what feels comfortable and stick with it.

How can you even come up with that comparison :lol: You know it's two different swing and shots? Lol let's compare apples with apples, shall we?

Try to put a 60 gram (shortened) shaft in your sandwedge and try again. No? OK, so let us just stop here.

 

Proud member of Method EU * 421 ilvl Rogue (Outlaw/Assa) * 419 ilvl Demon Hunter (Havoc) * 418 ilvl Hunter (BM)

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It's not a comparison it's called golf, back to back shots that you actually hit whilst playing the game. Make it a longer par 4, with driver then a set 4 iron, the shaft weight difference is still there, I don't know what apples you're talking about I just deal with the realities of playing..> @Pitchswag said:

> > @vman said:

> > I think there's a lot to be said for uniformity throughout the set and it seems logical. However, I don't think it really matters as top golfers can go from lightweight graphite to heavyweight steel in their iron set makeup. And for example, lets say you're playing a Driver ,SW, short par 4, in this instance you go from say a 60 gram graphite shafted driver to a 130gram steel SW with no issues at all.

> > As it only really matters to you I'd say find what feels comfortable and stick with it.

> How can you even come up with that comparison :lol: You know it's two different swing and shots? Lol let's compare apples with apples, shall we?

> Try to put a 60 gram (shortened) shaft in your sandwedge and try again. No? OK, so let us just stop here.

>

 

 

Whatever works.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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> @vman said:

> It's not a comparison it's called golf, back to back shots that you actually hit whilst playing the game. Make it a longer par 4, with driver then a set 4 iron, the shaft weight difference is still there, I don't know what apples you're talking about I just deal with the realities of playing..> @Pitchswag said:

> > > @vman said:

> > > I think there's a lot to be said for uniformity throughout the set and it seems logical. However, I don't think it really matters as top golfers can go from lightweight graphite to heavyweight steel in their iron set makeup. And for example, lets say you're playing a Driver ,SW, short par 4, in this instance you go from say a 60 gram graphite shafted driver to a 130gram steel SW with no issues at all.

> > > As it only really matters to you I'd say find what feels comfortable and stick with it.

> > How can you even come up with that comparison :lol: You know it's two different swing and shots? Lol let's compare apples with apples, shall we?

> > Try to put a 60 gram (shortened) shaft in your sandwedge and try again. No? OK, so let us just stop here.

> >

>

>

 

You - unfortunately - know very little about golf then. Sorry to break it for you.

Proud member of Method EU * 421 ilvl Rogue (Outlaw/Assa) * 419 ilvl Demon Hunter (Havoc) * 418 ilvl Hunter (BM)

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My SW (90+yd full-shot club) has the same 115gram Project X 5.5 "Stiff" shaft like the rest of my irons, including 2 iron. However, my heavier LW (E0-SW) has a 129 gram DGS200 because it has a slightly softer tip section for "feel" shots. I seldom hit LW more than 70 yards even though it's an 80yd full-shot club. My LW, SW, and PW are 36" in length too, same as 9 iron.

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> @vman said:

> I think there's a lot to be said for uniformity throughout the set and it seems logical. However, I don't think it really matters as top golfers can go from lightweight graphite to heavyweight steel in their iron set makeup. And for example, lets say you're playing a Driver ,SW, short par 4, in this instance you go from say a 60 gram graphite shafted driver to a 130gram steel SW with no issues at all.

> As it only really matters to you I'd say find what feels comfortable and stick with it.

 

I understand the value of uniformity. But disagree with your assumptive conclusion. I play to a low-single. The swing behind my Tour Spec 65 gram driver shaft is different than my approach shot swing into the green. When I hit driver I usually have 40-75yd wide fairway to hit which allows me to go after driver.

 

Yesterday, hit driver off short par 4 and had 105 yds to an elevated green and front pin. Also had an uphill lie in the fairway. I chose PW (115-118yd club) that has PX5.5 115gram "stiff" shaft and 3/4 more deliberate swing to land 10' to left. Though mechanics are similar that swing is not like the swing I put on my driver. I swing driver much harder. Sure I can adapt to pretty much any shaft/club setup but a good golfer doesn't need to adapt to his equipment; it's the other way around. We want our irons and wedges to fit our style of play.

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I know I'm good at golf and if you could articulate a point regarding the importance or not of shaft weight in wedges and it's perceived importance, I'm interested in your personal opinions> @Pitchswag said:

> > @vman said:

> > It's not a comparison it's called golf, back to back shots that you actually hit whilst playing the game. Make it a longer par 4, with driver then a set 4 iron, the shaft weight difference is still there, I don't know what apples you're talking about I just deal with the realities of playing..> @Pitchswag said:

> > > > @vman said:

> > > > I think there's a lot to be said for uniformity throughout the set and it seems logical. However, I don't think it really matters as top golfers can go from lightweight graphite to heavyweight steel in their iron set makeup. And for example, lets say you're playing a Driver ,SW, short par 4, in this instance you go from say a 60 gram graphite shafted driver to a 130gram steel SW with no issues at all.

> > > > As it only really matters to you I'd say find what feels comfortable and stick with it.

> > > How can you even come up with that comparison :lol: You know it's two different swing and shots? Lol let's compare apples with apples, shall we?

> > > Try to put a 60 gram (shortened) shaft in your sandwedge and try again. No? OK, so let us just stop here.

> > >

> >

> >

>

> You - unfortunately - know very little about golf then. Sorry to break it for you.

 

Whatever works.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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> @vman said:

> It's not a comparison it's called golf, back to back shots that you actually hit whilst playing the game. Make it a longer par 4, with driver then a set 4 iron, the shaft weight difference is still there, I don't know what apples you're talking about I just deal with the realities of playing..> @Pitchswag said:

> > > @vman said:

> > > I think there's a lot to be said for uniformity throughout the set and it seems logical. However, I don't think it really matters as top golfers can go from lightweight graphite to heavyweight steel in their iron set makeup. And for example, lets say you're playing a Driver ,SW, short par 4, in this instance you go from say a 60 gram graphite shafted driver to a 130gram steel SW with no issues at all.

> > > As it only really matters to you I'd say find what feels comfortable and stick with it.

> > How can you even come up with that comparison :lol: You know it's two different swing and shots? Lol let's compare apples with apples, shall we?

> > Try to put a 60 gram (shortened) shaft in your sandwedge and try again. No? OK, so let us just stop here.

> >

>

>

 

You - unfortunately - know very little about golf then. Sorry to break it for you.> @vman said:

> I know I'm good at golf and if you could articulate a point regarding the importance or not of shaft weight in wedges and it's perceived importance, I'm interested in your personal opinions> @Pitchswag said:

> > > @vman said:

> > > It's not a comparison it's called golf, back to back shots that you actually hit whilst playing the game. Make it a longer par 4, with driver then a set 4 iron, the shaft weight difference is still there, I don't know what apples you're talking about I just deal with the realities of playing..> @Pitchswag said:

> > > > > @vman said:

> > > > > I think there's a lot to be said for uniformity throughout the set and it seems logical. However, I don't think it really matters as top golfers can go from lightweight graphite to heavyweight steel in their iron set makeup. And for example, lets say you're playing a Driver ,SW, short par 4, in this instance you go from say a 60 gram graphite shafted driver to a 130gram steel SW with no issues at all.

> > > > > As it only really matters to you I'd say find what feels comfortable and stick with it.

> > > > How can you even come up with that comparison :lol: You know it's two different swing and shots? Lol let's compare apples with apples, shall we?

> > > > Try to put a 60 gram (shortened) shaft in your sandwedge and try again. No? OK, so let us just stop here.

> > > >

> > >

> > >

> >

> > You - unfortunately - know very little about golf then. Sorry to break it for you.

>

 

The fact that you don't know the difference between a 60 gram driver shaft and a 130 gram wedge shaft doesn't indicate that you are very good at golf. It's obvious that you can go from a 60 gram driver to a 130 gram wedge since it's two very different shots. Of course you can adapt to your equipment, but why make it a lot harder than necessary? And also - no matter how good you are and how much you can adapt - it will be pretty hard to control distance and dispersion with a 60 gram wedge shaft.

Proud member of Method EU * 421 ilvl Rogue (Outlaw/Assa) * 419 ilvl Demon Hunter (Havoc) * 418 ilvl Hunter (BM)

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Sorry you miss my point completely. You think the 4 iron second shot is that different as well?

Stick to your preconceived notions of what you've been told is right and carry on.> @Pitchswag said:

> > @vman said:

> > It's not a comparison it's called golf, back to back shots that you actually hit whilst playing the game. Make it a longer par 4, with driver then a set 4 iron, the shaft weight difference is still there, I don't know what apples you're talking about I just deal with the realities of playing..> @Pitchswag said:

> > > > @vman said:

> > > > I think there's a lot to be said for uniformity throughout the set and it seems logical. However, I don't think it really matters as top golfers can go from lightweight graphite to heavyweight steel in their iron set makeup. And for example, lets say you're playing a Driver ,SW, short par 4, in this instance you go from say a 60 gram graphite shafted driver to a 130gram steel SW with no issues at all.

> > > > As it only really matters to you I'd say find what feels comfortable and stick with it.

> > > How can you even come up with that comparison :lol: You know it's two different swing and shots? Lol let's compare apples with apples, shall we?

> > > Try to put a 60 gram (shortened) shaft in your sandwedge and try again. No? OK, so let us just stop here.

> > >

> >

> >

>

> You - unfortunately - know very little about golf then. Sorry to break it for you.> @vman said:

> > I know I'm good at golf and if you could articulate a point regarding the importance or not of shaft weight in wedges and it's perceived importance, I'm interested in your personal opinions> @Pitchswag said:

> > > > @vman said:

> > > > It's not a comparison it's called golf, back to back shots that you actually hit whilst playing the game. Make it a longer par 4, with driver then a set 4 iron, the shaft weight difference is still there, I don't know what apples you're talking about I just deal with the realities of playing..> @Pitchswag said:

> > > > > > @vman said:

> > > > > > I think there's a lot to be said for uniformity throughout the set and it seems logical. However, I don't think it really matters as top golfers can go from lightweight graphite to heavyweight steel in their iron set makeup. And for example, lets say you're playing a Driver ,SW, short par 4, in this instance you go from say a 60 gram graphite shafted driver to a 130gram steel SW with no issues at all.

> > > > > > As it only really matters to you I'd say find what feels comfortable and stick with it.

> > > > > How can you even come up with that comparison :lol: You know it's two different swing and shots? Lol let's compare apples with apples, shall we?

> > > > > Try to put a 60 gram (shortened) shaft in your sandwedge and try again. No? OK, so let us just stop here.

> > > > >

> > > >

> > > >

> > >

> > > You - unfortunately - know very little about golf then. Sorry to break it for you.

> >

>

> The fact that you don't know the difference between a 60 gram driver shaft and a 130 gram wedge shaft doesn't indicate that you are very good at golf. It's obvious that you can go from a 60 gram driver to a 130 gram wedge since it's two very different shots. Of course you can adapt to your equipment, but why make it a lot harder than necessary? And also - no matter how good you are and how much you can adapt - it will be pretty hard to control distance and dispersion with a 60 gram wedge shaft.

 

 

Whatever works.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Play KBS Tour120 Stiff (120g) in my irons 3-PW. Play Nippon Modus3 125 Stiff (128.5g) in my 50/54 and regular wedge flex DG in my 58 (primarily for sand.) I feel that the Nippons play a little softer to flex than the KBS, so really just added weight and a little softer flex. I have played a full set of Nippon M3 120 Stiff and noticed they were soft to flex, too.

Getting ready to switch my PW to an SM7 and I'll put the Nippon in that, too. I prefer the extra weight in my wedges.

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