Maltby TS2

[Nat]

On 5/2/2024 at 7:37 PM, Popeye64 said:

The low swing weight of the KE4 TC Pro FW 5 left me with a bad taste. Hitting it back to back with the TM Stealth 2 was difficult as the swingweight difference is huge. So I wanted to give the Pro a decent shake. Time by itself. The shaft is a Graphite Design Tour AD IZ-7. So the club has great overall weight to it. After a quick range session I had it in play twice. The course I played was long and the club saw plenty of action. A few standout holes really test this club. A 457 yard par 4 that's uphill. Twice the second shot was 215 up hill to a cupped green. Easily playing 225 with a cross wind. Both days the ball stayed on the putting surface. The club has a good sized rocker front to back that is extremely turf friendly. Fairways are still a bit thin. So lies are tight. 

The second great test for this club is a down hill dog leg par 4. If you can hit a high draw you can find the putting surface. But you have carry a forest. One was on the green and one just off. 

I found the club to be very easy to play. With out much thought the club responds to your swing. On the simulator it seemed to give up some distance to the Sim 2. But it was back to back shots, in which I was actually struggling with the Pro. So much so i was pretty sour on it. But in play I feel this club gives up nothing. It has easily found the distances needed, with accuracy.

Comparing the Pro to the Sim 2, I visually like the Pro quite a bit more. Though they measure out to be similar in size the Pro looks smaller. But in a good way. It also sets up behind the ball better. The sole of the Pro has more of that radius where the Sim 2 extends out to the toe a bit more. It's a bit more turf friendly than the Sim2.

I'm very surprised how much I like the Pro after my first go around. I was convinced it was a dud. I'm glad I gave it the shake down it deserved. 

 

I built an ist non-pro 5 wood, but took a different tack. I have struggled with consistency with 15* 3w, so I built the 17* 5 wood with a Kura Kage silver 65 shaft at 43’’. It has been great. Much easier to hit than my old zx 3w, easier to hit low draws that will run out but easier to hit higher if neeed. 
I compared it to my buddy’s stealth 5 wood. To me the ist was longer (the Maltby was 1/4’’ longer), and more consistent, but I will say the stealth had a better feel.

[Nat]

I’m posting this here, because it is not ‘for sale’, and I feel like the people who are reading this thread are the right people.

I was lent a ke4 tc max driver to try out. It did not beat out my SIM, but it is everything you’ve read. Solid, forgiving, plenty long.

I am offering it to anyone who may want to try it. 
Conditions- you promise to return it to me, and you pay shipping 

 

 

[iamlowsound]

20 hours ago, TheFrozenChef said:

Lol, no worries.

 

The RCT ProV1's with trackman off turf. Normally I use AAAAA ProV1x's.

I did a bunch of testing on ball this past winter between the Pro-V1, Pro-V1x, -Pro-V1x, and AVX; all the RCT on Trackman. The Pro-V1x blew the rest out of the water for me. On a good strike they all performed similarly, stopping within five yards with a seven iron and stopping within a yard with my 54°. It was on the poor strikes where the Pro-V1x blew the rest out of the water. On poor strikes with my seven that Pro-V1x was still stopping within 7-8 yards and within two with my 54°. The other balls were off the green. I'm sticking way more greens so far this year using the Pro-V1x. 

[iamlowsound]

18 hours ago, taki27 said:

I probably hit 5 or 6 that changed direction

mid-flight, lol.  The balls at all the public ranges over here look the same 😞

The range at my course has the odd ball with basically no dimples. I love hitting them just to watch the wacky stuff they do. Thankfully most balls are in good shape. 

[iamlowsound]

Range session today, hitting the original TS1 irons and I was reminded how good these things are. Hitting my seven iron to a 170 yard target, all over the target on good strikes; but it's the bad strikes where these things shine. I was hitting the odd one off the toe, half the ball mark of more off the grooves, and the ball was keeping the target line and only losing 5-10 yards. Seriously forgiving irons. 

[CopperCup1987]

7 hours ago, Nat said:

I’m posting this here, because it is not ‘for sale’, and I feel like the people who are reading this thread are the right people.

I was lent a ke4 tc max driver to try out. It did not beat out my SIM, but it is everything you’ve read. Solid, forgiving, plenty long.

I am offering it to anyone who may want to try it. 
Conditions- you promise to return it to me, and you pay shipping 

 

 

I’d be willing to try it out for a week or two and send it back to you. 

[gensay]

Hello guys, I am re-shafting my TS3 irons (as well as Vokey wedges) and I have a question.

Yesterday I pulled shafts from my irons, and I noticed that the shaft tips were very clean. Compared to the shafts pulled from Vokey, one is quite clean but two are very dirty.

I'm wondering if this is a sign of under-preparation or epoxy failure.

I used Golfworks Tourset Plus epoxy when I built my clubs and the shaft was a .355 taper tip. I wasn't able to twist the head before applying heat to the tip.
 

Edited May 6 by gensay

[TexanIIDriver]

I recently re-shafted a Vokey and whatever epoxy they use is a PITA to remove/clean from the shaft and hosel.  I use the Golfworks 24hr on all my personal builds and once it's heated for removal it just kind of flakes off and is super easy to clean the remainder with a light scrape of a razor blade or some sand paper.  I've had some look pretty clean like the one in the pic above with zero failure after a lot of use.

[gdb99]

2 hours ago, gensay said:

Hello guys, I am re-shafting my TS3 irons (as well as Vokey wedges) and I have a question.

Yesterday I pulled shafts from my irons, and I noticed that the shaft tips were very clean. Compared to the shafts pulled from Vokey, one is quite clean but two are very dirty.

I'm wondering if this is a sign of under-preparation or epoxy failure.

I used Golfworks Tourset Plus epoxy when I built my clubs and the shaft was a .350 taper tip. I wasn't able to twist the head before applying heat to the tip.
 

If you did the original shafting of your TS3 irons, you didn't abrade the tips.

The shafts on the Vokey's are.

You need to get the chrome roughed up for the epoxy to have something to bond to. I use a mini grinding wheel type bit in my Dremmel tool.

[Mulliganizer]

On 4/24/2024 at 8:54 AM, AZstu324 said:

So if you've got a few weeks to spare, a certain YouTube person will be reviewing the TS4's. In fact he should be receiving them today. 

 

 

 

 

[gensay]

1 hour ago, gdb99 said:

If you did the original shafting of your TS3 irons, you didn't abrade the tips.

The shafts on the Vokey's are.

You need to get the chrome roughed up for the epoxy to have something to bond to. I use a mini grinding wheel type bit in my Dremmel tool.

Thanks I used 100 grit sandpaper but I think it wasn’t enough.

[gdb99]

4 minutes ago, gensay said:

Thanks I used 100 grit sandpaper but I think it wasn’t enough.

I don't think that's enough either.

 

I use one of these:

 

https://www.dremel.com/us/en/p/932-2615000932

[Klubster]

42 minutes ago, gdb99 said:

I don't think that's enough either.

 

I use one of these:

 

https://www.dremel.com/us/en/p/932-2615000932

I use a 1" belt sander (carefully) for the shaft and a grinding bit on my Dremel inside the hosel.  Never had a failure.

[AZstu324]

1 hour ago, gensay said:

Thanks I used 100 grit sandpaper but I think it wasn’t enough.

I use 60 grit (80 max) on both steel and graphite. You don't wanna see any shine from the chrome plating when done. Also another tip is to make sure the shafts/heads cure in the most upright position possible. You want the epoxy inside the hosel and around the shaft to settle and dry symmetrically. 

 

Another tip.. abraid the shaft tip up to just below the ferrule top and the inside of the ferrule. This eliminates any ferrule creep. 

Edited May 6 by AZstu324

[Klubster]

1 minute ago, AZstu324 said:

 

 

Another tip.. abraid the shaft tip up to just below the ferrule top and the inside of the ferrule. This eliminates any ferrule creep. 

This^^^

[AutomationGolfer]

I’m very curious to get everyone’s opinion here as I feel people who consider Maltby are less accepting of marketing claims by big brands.

 

I am thinking of getting KE4 Max from 6I-GW but spacing the lofts equally at 4 degrees difference.(6 iron at 28 degrees and GW at 48 degrees). Whenever I bring this up to other golfers, they say loft jacking on game improvement irons is to counter act high launch and that you should still get equal distance between clubs where I haven’t found that to be the case. I’ll tend to have 15 degrees between wedge-9-8 and then less where the lofts bunch up. Between 8-7-6-5

 

what do you guys think about this or is my logic actually not making sense? 

[NRJyzr]

1 hour ago, AutomationGolfer said:

I’m very curious to get everyone’s opinion here as I feel people who consider Maltby are less accepting of marketing claims by big brands.

 

I am thinking of getting KE4 Max from 6I-GW but spacing the lofts equally at 4 degrees difference.(6 iron at 28 degrees and GW at 48 degrees). Whenever I bring this up to other golfers, they say loft jacking on game improvement irons is to counter act high launch and that you should still get equal distance between clubs where I haven’t found that to be the case. I’ll tend to have 15 degrees between wedge-9-8 and then less where the lofts bunch up. Between 8-7-6-5

 

what do you guys think about this or is my logic actually not making sense? 

 

IMHO you are on point.

 

[mstuewe]

2 hours ago, AutomationGolfer said:

I’m very curious to get everyone’s opinion here as I feel people who consider Maltby are less accepting of marketing claims by big brands.

 

I am thinking of getting KE4 Max from 6I-GW but spacing the lofts equally at 4 degrees difference.(6 iron at 28 degrees and GW at 48 degrees). Whenever I bring this up to other golfers, they say loft jacking on game improvement irons is to counter act high launch and that you should still get equal distance between clubs where I haven’t found that to be the case. I’ll tend to have 15 degrees between wedge-9-8 and then less where the lofts bunch up. Between 8-7-6-5

 

what do you guys think about this or is my logic actually not making sense? 

tour pros experience the same, with a 12 yard gap at the bottom of the bag and only 9 yards with the long irons.  I don’t think it’s because of loft jacking as much as it is, long irons are really hard to hit and there are more misses coming into the average calculation.

 

 

[Bryceslu]

17 hours ago, Mulliganizer said:

 

my take on his video:

He talks in what I would say is a negative way about the size and shape aspects of the club. Which are the exact things that make it so forgiving and what other irons in this category don’t have. He is clearly not swinging and striking it well, yet gets away with it and surprises him with how forgiving they are. He changes his negatively slanted view on the clubs after they play so well for him. 
It feels a bit like he didn’t want to like them at first and perhaps they were a bit too hyped up for him. But they flat out worked. 

[AUswimKC]

10 hours ago, AutomationGolfer said:

I’m very curious to get everyone’s opinion here as I feel people who consider Maltby are less accepting of marketing claims by big brands.

 

I am thinking of getting KE4 Max from 6I-GW but spacing the lofts equally at 4 degrees difference.(6 iron at 28 degrees and GW at 48 degrees). Whenever I bring this up to other golfers, they say loft jacking on game improvement irons is to counter act high launch and that you should still get equal distance between clubs where I haven’t found that to be the case. I’ll tend to have 15 degrees between wedge-9-8 and then less where the lofts bunch up. Between 8-7-6-5

 

what do you guys think about this or is my logic actually not making sense? 

This is exactly what I have done. From 28deg to 48deg. The gapping to my 52 is a bit farther than I’d like given the different head and shaft, but I’ll figure it out this summer

[achappy]

18 hours ago, Mulliganizer said:

 

 

I'll admit I'm not a big fan of YouTube (the whole clickbait thumbnails drive me crazy) but I really like his videos.  I don't know how knowledgeable he is about shafts, but I think he should at least acknowledge how much a shaft can influence feel.  He's playing C-Taper Lites in the TS4 and I know to some that profile feels harsh and if it's a different shaft than he's played in other heads that could influence the feel.

 

But I love how he changes his tune as the round goes on, acknowledging how good the irons are.

[Mike_C]

13 minutes ago, achappy said:

 

I'll admit I'm not a big fan of YouTube (the whole clickbait thumbnails drive me crazy) but I really like his videos.  I don't know how knowledgeable he is about shafts, but I think he should at least acknowledge how much a shaft can influence feel.  He's playing C-Taper Lites in the TS4 and I know to some that profile feels harsh and if it's a different shaft than he's played in other heads that could influence the feel.

 

But I love how he changes his tune as the round goes on, acknowledging how good the irons are.

Exactly, Shafts make a huge difference on feel.  I have Recoil Dart Vs in my TS4s. With these shafts, center and near center strikes feel like melted butter, but a bit too thin or off the toe, I can definitely tell, which is not a bad thing...even so, these mishit shots are still very playable.....

[Filipp0]

Quick update and mini review here, I bought 4-60 with Maltby and now have played 5 rounds with them 

 

4,5,6 - TE+

7-GW - TS4

54,58 - Max milled 

 

I got fitted for the Modus Tour 120X on all irons and used the modus wedge on the 54 and 58

 

Starting from the longer clubs, the TE+ are probably the easiest long irons I've ever hit and they have a players look to them, they have a thinner profile than a T150, They don't look as good as the TS4, but they perform incredibly well. I don't love their looks though, especially from the back, but from the top they look great. In terms of a combo set with the TS4 I think they work perfectly (I got their lofts 1 degree weaker for a better transition)

The TS4 look AMAZING, I think they look better than most modern irons. I tried real blades and the forgiveness is just a different category, they look like blades but they are not - to me it makes it a very appealing iron, because that's exactly what I wanted (blade looks, non-blade forgiveness). So far they have played great, soft feeling, I agree with that youtube review that it may not be the softest feeling ever, but they do feel good, and haven't had a single "hot spot" shot so far, which is something that bothered me from my previous set (PXG gen 3)

Now the wedges... I wanted a full face wedge, so happy to have them, they play well, spin is nice but they are huge, especially the 58 which I got in the 1.05" width. Makes turf interaction on very firm conditions poor, I wouldn't buy them again. Not bad clubs by any means, but I don't think it fits my bag

 

All in all I am extremely impressed by Maltby's quality and definitely recommend the TE+ and TS4 for any decent ball strikers out there

 

Edited May 7 by Filipp0

[gensay]

Here's an update on my shaft pulling experience.

 

I use a heat gun and it only took 30 seconds to break the epoxy on my Vokey SM8 heads on Saturday.

I also pulled 3 shafts from my TS3 irons on Sunday and it also took 30 seconds to pull the shafts cleanly with minimal effort (twisting).

 

Yesterday I pulled the remaining 4 shafts from my TS3 iron head and it was much more difficult.

It took more than 5 minutes to move the iron head.

I noticed that the first 3 shafts are under-prepared and the second 4 shafts are well-prepared. (I didn't build them on the same day).

I also saw epoxy ashes on the shaft tips and in the hosel which I didn't see on Sunday.

 

Now the question is why it wasn't that hard to pull the shafts out of the Vokey.

My guess is that the GW Tour Set Plus Epoxy is hard to break.

 

[iamlowsound]

38 minutes ago, Filipp0 said:

Quick update and mini review here, I bought 4-60 with Maltby and now have played 5 rounds with them 

 

4,5,6 - TE+

7-GW - TS4

54,58 - Max milled 

 

I got fitted for the Modus Tour 120X on all irons and used the modus wedge on the 54 and 58

 

Starting from the longer clubs, the TE+ are probably the easiest long irons I've ever hit and they have a players look to them, they have a thinner profile than a T150, They don't look as good as the TS4, but they perform incredibly well. I don't love their looks though, especially from the back, but from the top they look great. In terms of a combo set with the TS4 I think they work perfectly (I got their lofts 1 degree weaker for a better transition)

The TS4 look AMAZING, I think they look better than most modern irons. I tried real blades and the forgiveness is just a different category, they look like blades but they are not - to me it makes it a very appealing iron, because that's exactly what I wanted (blade looks, non-blade forgiveness). So far they have played great, soft feeling, I agree with that youtube review that it may not be the softest feeling ever, but they do feel good, and haven't had a single "hot spot" shot so far, which is something that bothered me from my previous set (PXG gen 3)

Now the wedges... I wanted a full face wedge, so happy to have them, they play well, spin is nice but they are huge, especially the 58 which I got in the 1.05" width. Makes turf interaction on very firm conditions poor, I wouldn't buy them again. Not bad clubs by any means, but I don't think it fits my bag

 

All in all I am extremely impressed by Maltby's quality and definitely recommend the TE+ and TS4 for any decent ball strikers out there

 

Just a quick note, the TS4 ARE real blades. They are a traditional, one piece, forged, muscleback. They are just designed to be ultra forgiving in the same form factor. 

[Cwebb]

14 hours ago, AutomationGolfer said:

I’m very curious to get everyone’s opinion here as I feel people who consider Maltby are less accepting of marketing claims by big brands.

 

I am thinking of getting KE4 Max from 6I-GW but spacing the lofts equally at 4 degrees difference.(6 iron at 28 degrees and GW at 48 degrees). Whenever I bring this up to other golfers, they say loft jacking on game improvement irons is to counter act high launch and that you should still get equal distance between clubs where I haven’t found that to be the case. I’ll tend to have 15 degrees between wedge-9-8 and then less where the lofts bunch up. Between 8-7-6-5

 

what do you guys think about this or is my logic actually not making sense? 

 

What you're saying is true for a lot of players.  Keep in mind that the KE4 Max are cast from 17-4 steel, which is hard to bend.   Some could even consider skipping a club in the lower lofts, to create a gapping advantage....and free up a slot in their set for an additional useful club.

 

The KE4 "Tour" is very similar in mass and dimensional characteristics and are cast from 431 stainless, which is easier to bend

[vandyfan]

A quick question about the iron shafts that are cut from a single 43" length (in this case the FST 125 shaft). I feel like I am starting to overpower my shorter irons in the FST 125 since they are all cut from 43" the PW and GW are about 7g lighter than my 5 iron which I hit really well. Can you simply add lead tape to the shaft to make them slightly heavier and, if so, where would you add it? In the middle of the shaft vertically? I feel like I only need to add about 5g-10g here. 

[vietnameeh]

I am guessing the TS4 is basically the upgraded MMBs.

 

I am still loving my TE forged .... does golf works ever "close out" on old heads? i know I know I am cheap at $30 a head .... i was just wondering 

[Cwebb]

1 hour ago, vandyfan said:

A quick question about the iron shafts that are cut from a single 43" length (in this case the FST 125 shaft). I feel like I am starting to overpower my shorter irons in the FST 125 since they are all cut from 43" the PW and GW are about 7g lighter than my 5 iron which I hit really well. Can you simply add lead tape to the shaft to make them slightly heavier and, if so, where would you add it? In the middle of the shaft vertically? I feel like I only need to add about 5g-10g here. 

 

Yeah, center of the shaft itself, not the full club.  If you want less head heavy feel, go higher,...more head heavy go lower

[NRJyzr]

2 hours ago, vandyfan said:

Can you simply add lead tape to the shaft to make them slightly heavier and, if so, where would you add it? In the middle of the shaft vertically? I feel like I only need to add about 5g-10g here. 

 

I've done this, on a lot of clubs.  You can largely choose where you want it, but I used to center it around 14" from the butt of the club, so that I didn't fool the swingweight scale (I have swingweight values that I've learned work for me).

 

But really, you could start just below the grip, go to the midpoint of the shaft.  Or, if you want to get cute, you could try adding one gram or so to the second longest clubhead, and increasing that incrementally through the rest of the set.  I did this with a set of parallel shafted clubs, seems to work OK.  Creates a swingweight slope, my shortest club was a couple points higher than the longest club.