Have Modern Driver Gotten Too Long - Club Length Not Distance?

[JM2]

I’ve been trying out a couple different shafts in my driver and whenever I have the stock length playing 45.75” I feel like it is very hard for me to control. I’m all over the face with the standard playing length club. The second shaft I am using plays at 45” and even though it’s only 3/4” difference it feels much easier to control and find the center of the face. Does anyone else feel like the modern driver has gotten too long for the average player to consistently find the center of the face?

[dmeeksDC]

Some like longer, some don’t, but if you are having trouble controlling the driver and/or hitting the middle, testing

a shorter length is a good place to start. I stick with 45.25 and it works well for me. A 3/4 inch difference is a lot in a game in which millimeters matter. 

[Mikey_HACKilroy]

No.

Here's the reason why. A standard length is always going to be what they consider "best" which is subjective. Fittings are offered either by the manufacturer or a club maker/distributor to determine the right length. During that fitting, it is up to the golfer to discuss with the fitter their needs/wants/desires such that the resulting club is "right."

The right club just feels right; there are few other ways to put it because anybody that describes what is "right" to them will be using their own criteria and not somebody else's criteria.

I'm back to 45½" which is what PXG considers standard. Going under 45" will not produce a feel that I like. It's no wonder I liked the Speedline F11 I had years ago because it was 45.875" long. Recently, I was gaming 46¼" but that became a bit too much of a strain with the extra weight. I was hitting center face well, but I am still hitting it well enough since the adjustment.

 

You have to find what works for you; there's no "rule" other than finding the length that produces not only good results for you, but also feels right and doesn't lead to unnecessary strain (like a G5 driver would.... LOL).

 

If a golfer bypasses the fitting process that is okay and it does not make them stupid. It simply means they accept the responsibility for adjustments after the fact (which can be fun 😄 )

Edited May 1 by Mikey_HACKilroy

[Sean124]

45” is the sweet spot for me with distance + control 

[JohnKHawk]

Been playing 44.5 to 44.75 last few years. No distance loss...actually gained distance & accuracy. Most recreational golfers who are double digit hcp's struggle with the 45.5 length & above drivers...at least the guys I know.

[jda]

For most, they are only long to pop numbers in a bay with a TrackMan reading the swing.  Most should not play them that long on the course.

 

There have always been exceptions with those who love 46" drivers and can handle them.  I know a few that you will have to rip their 45+ drivers out of their cold, dead hands.

 

What makes 46" standard worse is that everything is getting lighter for higher SS and contact and ball speed is going down.  If you want to play 45.5 to 46, then add some weight in the shaft and head and see if that helps you control things - it usually does.

[JM2]

18 minutes ago, Sean124 said:

45” is the sweet spot for me with distance + control 

That’s where I’m thinking I need to be as well. My 45” is just much more consistent for me than the 45.75” version of the same club. 

[JM2]

4 minutes ago, jda said:

What makes 46" standard worse is that everything is getting lighter for higher SS and contact and ball speed is going down.  If you want to play 45.5 to 46, then add some weight in the shaft and head and see if that helps you control things - it usually does.

That’s what I think throws me the most is the weight (or lack of weight) in the head of these longer clubs. I respond best to a heavier club head and these longer clubs seem to be going the opposite direction. 

[jda]

They just want to pop swing speed numbers in a bay - designed for the weekend or golfer not well versed in equipment.  People who like heavier clubs know how to work them to their liking.  Get good at lead tape and then you can buy weights when you figured out what you like - add it slowly and then take it off and weigh it when you are done tinkering.  Lead tape in the front is slightly less forgiving, but also lowers spin.  Lead tape in the back is a larger sweet spot, but also more spin.  The drivers with weights in the front and back are good for figuring this out - Cobra F9, D4 Titleist and many others.

 

I hate it the most that manufacturers change weights every iteration too.  ...so then I have to buy new weights with each new head.  This is why I skip generations.

 

You can buy heavier shafts up to 85-90 grams (maybe more).  If you still need some, I put lead tape under my driver and 3 wood grips.  It add more control to the strike and I don't lose any speed.

 

 

[Twism86]

As someone who has never been fit and has always played my clubs as they come off the shelf, how easy is it to go get my driver shortened? Can I just go to any golf shop and have them take 1/2" off and regrip or will more adjustments be necessary? Is it worth getting a second shaft built? 

[jda]

Choke up on it and see if you like it.  If you find yourself still wanting to use the whole shaft out of habit, wrap some baseball bat tape (the cloth feeling stuff) over the end so that you feel it and remember.

 

Otherwise, yes, you can just have somebody chop 1/2 off of the end and regrip.  You can do this yourself with simple tools.

 

If you have a larger OEM driver, there are sometimes a plethora of shafts on eBay where you can find shorter versions to try.  They are usually cheap unless they are a tour-quality shaft.

[Twism86]

17 minutes ago, jda said:

Choke up on it and see if you like it.  If you find yourself still wanting to use the whole shaft out of habit, wrap some baseball bat tape (the cloth feeling stuff) over the end so that you feel it and remember.

 

Otherwise, yes, you can just have somebody chop 1/2 off of the end and regrip.  You can do this yourself with simple tools.

 

If you have a larger OEM driver, there are sometimes a plethora of shafts on eBay where you can find shorter versions to try.  They are usually cheap unless they are a tour-quality shaft.

Thanks, I already choke up on most of my clubs to be honest. My grip is more toward the shaft than the butt end. 

[puttingmatt]

Since this is a quick and height adjusted form of custom fitting,

NO, drivers are not to long 

[Primo1868]

OP should follow this to a T:

 

[JM2]

6 minutes ago, Primo1868 said:

OP should follow this to a T:

 

Outstanding info!  I’m going to have to take a more careful read of it, but just the info about contact point on the face relating to club length confirmed what I’ve been thinking about the 45.75” driver for me. Thanks!!!

[Poor Mans Ty Webb]

1 hour ago, JM2 said:

That’s what I think throws me the most is the weight (or lack of weight) in the head of these longer clubs. I respond best to a heavier club head and these longer clubs seem to be going the opposite direction. 

 

This isn't necessarily a universality across the board, but shafts are potentially getting more and more counterbalanced to offset the added length.  Ping comes to mind.

 

The bigger issue I have is with iron heads getting a few grams lighter, as they don't often come with removable weights that can be just popped in and out - although we're starting to see some of this, too! - I often find I'm having to get creative in adding weight back to the heads of modern irons.

[Primo1868]

Just now, JM2 said:

Outstanding info!  I’m going to have to take a more careful read of it, but just the info about contact point on the face relating to club length confirmed what I’ve been thinking about the 45.75” driver for me. Thanks!!!

I'm a staunch believer in following this. The first time I actually executed this tune up led to ~8 months of the best tee game I've ever had. Now, all I have to do is small check ups to make sure I'm still where I want to be - most of the time just varying head weight a little. 

[MattM97]

The joys of golf is that you can play whatever you want, if you want a 44" driver do it if I want a 45.75" driver I can. Nothing says your need to play what the OEM's define as standard that's just what's best for their OTR setups and philosophies. 

[JM2]

26 minutes ago, MattM97 said:

The joys of golf is that you can play whatever you want, if you want a 44" driver do it if I want a 45.75" driver I can. Nothing says your need to play what the OEM's define as standard that's just what's best for their OTR setups and philosophies. 

Great point.  After reading all this and seeing my own personal results from using 45” vs 45.75” I’ve decided I’m going to cut my longer shaft down so they both play at 45”. That seems to be the length that I play best with. 

[jholz]

For me, and in my experience for most players, the answer is a definitive "yes."

[Chunkitgood]

When you go to get fitted for a driver, are different length shafts available for trying?  I’ve never seen them in a store but never been fitted either.

 

And are different length iron shafts a single in a fitting?

Edited May 1 by Chunkitgood

[Port and Starboard]

6' 2" inches tall with a 37" wrist to floor.     44" driver lengths seem to work best for me.   A little upright helps also.  My long arms combined with modern stock driver lengths make me uncomfortable.  (too far away and too flat)

 

I cut my Epic Speed down to 44" and set my aftermarket adapter to upright.  I installed a heavier head weight that scales the club at D-4   It's probably the best driver I have owned since my persimmon days.............with my old Taylormade 580 10.5 (S) being a close second.

 

 

 

 

[MiloMalt]

13 hours ago, Twism86 said:

As someone who has never been fit and has always played my clubs as they come off the shelf, how easy is it to go get my driver shortened? Can I just go to any golf shop and have them take 1/2" off and regrip or will more adjustments be necessary? Is it worth getting a second shaft built? 

Pretty much yes, but you will want to experiment with lead tape to the driver head to get the SW how you want it as going shorter will lower the SW. Once you work out how much extra weight you need you can keep the lead tape or try to get the correct adjustable weights depending on your driver model.

[A.Princey]

Yeah, I do think drivers are trending too long. Nothing over 45.5" is really gaining one much in terms of improving their golf game. It's all about that ONE shot you middle during your in-store trial/"fitting" that the OEMs and dealers want you to take away from the session. Unless you're incredibly tall and/or have extremely short arms, an over-length build really isn't necessary. When properly weighted, 44-45" is the sweetspot for most.

[Howard_Jones]

17 hours ago, Mikey_HACKilroy said:

No.

Here's the reason why. A standard length is always going to be what they consider "best" which is subjective. Fittings are offered either by the manufacturer or a club maker/distributor to determine the right length. During that fitting, it is up to the golfer to discuss with the fitter their needs/wants/desires such that the resulting club is "right."
 

For INVENTORY, YES, not for any other reason.

Some of you is old enough to remember, than when we was kids, and was out with our mothers to buy a pair of trousers or jeans, all they needed to know to find the size, was our wide around the hips, since all of them came with legs way too long.

But that was not a problem. They then measured our legs, and there was a lady at the backroom with sewing machine that fixed it on site. It was all a inventory question.

Its the same with drivers for golf.
For inventory reasons, they all comes as "over length", so just like they "fittet our leg length on jeans", get play length, shaft weight, and head weight tuned up for YOU. Why do you think they gave us all the adjustment options like changeable head wgt, adjustable hosels?. To make it easier to tune up that club for a wide range of players and play lengths, = lower inventory

So make no mistakes about it, OEM's "standard play lengths" for drivers, should be considered as "uncut length", just like it is with new uncut shafts. They are NOT fitted to your play length before its actually done.

FITTING RULE #1
- All clubs in the bag, is a fitting object on its own...

FITTING RULE #2
- What ever works..

Why should the driver be a exception to that rule, when all players knows its valid for all the other clubs?

Edited May 2 by Howard_Jones

[Howard_Jones]

The longest driver ive ever played, was Callaway FTi 9* with the standard Fuji Speeder S flex. it was 45.75"
I might had some of my longest drives in my life with that club, maybe up against 300 yards....OOB.
I sprayed it all over, the number of fairway hits was terrible, but it was "all me" and my swing, the club was "standard play length", and i fit to play standard, so the club should be a good fit?. I did not know any better back then...

The longest drives in the fairway i ever made, was my next driver, Ben Hogan CS-3 7.5* FADE, with Aldila NV 70 S, played to 43.75". it was a fantastic fairway finder for me, my stats changed from extremely bad to "decent". (right above 260 meters total or about 285 yards)

Dont play "standard" length drivers, its a fairway finder that often is both the longest off the tee, and the club with your best Fairway stats. 

[JM2]

When I got home from work yesterday I took my longer shaft and cut it down to match the shorter shaft. It was getting late but I was able to get a quick bucket in at the range. What a change, the 3/4” cut made a world of difference. I was able to find the center of the face much more consistently and don’t feel like I lost much distance if any at all. 

[Mikey_HACKilroy]

3 hours ago, Howard_Jones said:

For INVENTORY, YES, not for any other reason.

Some of you is old enough to remember, than when we was kids, and was out with our mothers to buy a pair of trousers or jeans, all they needed to know to find the size, was our wide around the hips, since all of them came with legs way too long.

But that was not a problem. They then measured our legs, and there was a lady at the backroom with sewing machine that fixed it on site. It was all a inventory question.

Its the same with drivers for golf.
For inventory reasons, they all comes as "over length", so just like they "fittet our leg length on jeans", get play length, shaft weight, and head weight tuned up for YOU. Why do you think they gave us all the adjustment options like changeable head wgt, adjustable hosels?. To make it easier to tune up that club for a wide range of players and play lengths, = lower inventory

So make no mistakes about it, OEM's "standard play lengths" for drivers, should be considered as "uncut length", just like it is with new uncut shafts. They are NOT fitted to your play length before its actually done.

FITTING RULE #1
- All clubs in the bag, is a fitting object on its own...

FITTING RULE #2
- What ever works..

Why should the driver be a exception to that rule, when all players knows its valid for all the other clubs?

 

In fairness to myself.... 😄  I did say:

"Fittings are offered either by the manufacturer or a club maker/distributor to determine the right length. During that fitting, it is up to the golfer to discuss with the fitter their needs/wants/desires such that the resulting club is "right."

 

And also...

 

"If a golfer bypasses the fitting process that is okay and it does not make them stupid. It simply means they accept the responsibility for adjustments after the fact (which can be fun 😄 )"

 

So you and I are not of dissimilar thought on this, because I 100% agree with you. It's why I put "best" in quotations and noted the subjectivity of the word which would include any criteria a manufacturer lists that I couldn't anticipate based on my limited experience.

If there was a One Size Fits All, then everybody would be equally good with whatever is blessed as standard; which in practice is a false statement. 🙂 

 

[North Butte]

The heavier weight of a shortened (44" or thereabouts) driver costs me way more consistency than the extra length of a 45"-45.75" one. And playing a shortened driver at the same 310g-ish weight as a standard length is a complete no-go for me. So for me, I'm better off just staying in my long-term comfort zone of somewhere at or just over 45", somewhere in the 310g range and something like D1, D2, D3 for swingweight. 

 

I did one time attempt to play a 46" long driver and even though it doesn't seem like much more than 45.75", at least that one particular club felt very unwieldly. So I suspect 45.75" is about as long as I can handle and something closer to 45" is ideal. 

[RobS]

I'm comfortable at 45.5"-46" and personally see distance/speed benefits without sacrificing much if anything with consistency.  I can certainly see how it doesn't work for everyone.  Being middle aged, I can recall the adjustment period I had when lightweight driver shafts at 45" became the norm.  After playing drivers at 45" with 260cc-300cc heads for years, 460cc at 45.5'-46" doesn't look/feel too long for me.  The upside with stock lengths at or near the USGA max is that it's generally easier to add weight if you want to go shorter vs removing weight to go longer on a stock head designed for a shorter shaft length.  As with every other aspect to selecting clubs, you need to test/experiment to see what offers the most balanced performance.

Edited May 2 by RobS