Lets talk epoxy

[bepo]

Can't find a middle ground

I've tried lots of epoxies and haven't found any I like. I originally tried several types of Lowes epoxy without much luck, they were too brittle and the heads came off pretty quick. I did a search here and found that golfsmith tour van epoxy was pretty good so I got some of that. Everything was good for about a month and then a few iron heads came off and my 3 wood head as well. I ordered some golfworks high strength epoxy and they don't lie, it is high strength. So high that I couldn't pull the shaft in my driver and had to drill it out. Why is it so hard to find good epoxy? I do have a high swing speed but I don't see any of the tour guys having problems with their clubs.

[Johnny]

Brampton.. 20/20

[rodge]

3M DP810 is fantastic.

[1toGolf]

[quote name='bepo' timestamp='1324698656' post='3982171']
I've tried lots of epoxies and haven't found any I like. I originally tried several types of Lowes epoxy without much luck, they were too brittle and the heads came off pretty quick. I did a search here and found that golfsmith tour van epoxy was pretty good so I got some of that. Everything was good for about a month and then a few iron heads came off and my 3 wood head as well. I ordered some golfworks high strength epoxy and they don't lie, it is high strength. So high that I couldn't pull the shaft in my driver and had to drill it out. Why is it so hard to find good epoxy? I do have a high swing speed but I don't see any of the tour guys having problems with their clubs.
[/quote]
Take a look at VOBaker.

[Socrates]

An oft talked about topic and quite honestly, the one where most people are too willing to blame the epoxy and don't look in the mirror for the answer to their woes. While there are some epoxies that are better at certain things (golf assembly) than others, It almost always comes down to the person doing or not doing a few things right. Clean and prep the shaft, clean and prep the hosel, mix the epoxy properly and let it cure properly. You do those things and you should never have a problem - ever. Why do people like to use certain epoxies (Golfsmith, 3M DPxxx, Brampton, etc...)? It's not that there is something magical going on, but they usually are a little more elastic so they can handle shock a little better and quite often they perform well even if the surfaces are contaminated so you don't have to have it surgically clean when you assemble. Better epoxies give you more room for error if you need it, but you shouldn't.

[balbowski]

Our shop uses Brampton quick-set for most of our repairs unless the customer asks for a epoxy with a longer cure time, in that case we use the Brampton 20/20

[robert horneman]

socrates said it all,


Proper prep and mixing is the answer.

[KYMAR]

[quote name='Socrates' timestamp='1324704731' post='3982525']
An oft talked about topic and quite honestly, the one where most people are too willing to blame the epoxy and don't look in the mirror for the answer to their woes. While there are some epoxies that are better at certain things (golf assembly) than others, It almost always comes down to the person doing or not doing a few things right. Clean and prep the shaft, clean and prep the hosel, mix the epoxy properly and let it cure properly. You do those things and you should never have a problem - ever. Why do people like to use certain epoxies (Golfsmith, 3M DPxxx, Brampton, etc...)? It's not that there is something magical going on, but they usually are a little more elastic so they can handle shock a little better and quite often they perform well even if the surfaces are contaminated so you don't have to have it surgically clean when you assemble. Better epoxies give you more room for error if you need it, but you shouldn't.
[/quote]

+1 I have used every epoxy mentioned and have never had an issue past maybe my 5th attempt. You must be precise in the mix. and your shaft tip must be well abraded. I also learned early on to not overdo it with the epoxy. A nice thin coating on all surfaces is all it takes. And never be in a hurry. If it's an hour cure time or 24 hour, let it work.

[mosesgolf]

I've always used the Golfsmith Tour Van and never had a club come out.

[BCC]

Bramptons 510 quick cure from Mitchell for years without a problem.....Golfworks High strength VB10002 is my longer cure stuff with equal results. As said, it's ALL in the mix & prep work !!!

[LBlack14]

I don't understand why folks make buying epoxy such a tough job. I've been building now, for myself and others, about 5 yrs. Always use Golfworks beaded 50/50 24 hr. stuff and have NEVER had a failure. Never had a problem pulling shafts after using it either.

[1toGolf]

[quote name='robert horneman' timestamp='1324733186' post='3983039']
socrates said it all,


Proper prep and mixing is the answer.
[/quote]
Along with an epoxy that has a high shear strength, good temperature and cure characteristics.

[bluestreak]

Araldite Precision has never let me down,i always leave clubs 24hrs before hitting but well worth it.

Nice and easy to pull shafts once the "magic" has worn off.

 

Have used araldite rapid but had a couple of iron heads fly off!

 

 

 

[TKing]

either 3M DP810 or any of the 24 hr. black, golf club specific ones and you won't go wrong. If you're just testing and will most likely pull DP810. Once you're set, 24 hr.

[darpar]

Brampton's 20/20,plenty of work time before curing sets in,low melting point so it's easy to pull a shaft with less heat and the stuff hasn't failed me yet!

[Nessism]

I've never had a bond fail despite using all kinds of different epoxy products. I agree with the other folks referencing the need for proper prep.

I'm currently using Golf Works "High-Strength" epoxy. For quicky jobs I use Permatex 5-min. Epoxy Gel, which has a 3000 psi shear strength. I'm not a fan of fast epoxies in general, but 3000 psi isn't bad (I remember when 24 hour epoxies were only 2000 psi). If using a shim or if the hosel fit into the head is sloppy, I don't use the fast dry stuff.

The Golf Works epoxy doesn't break down with heat as easily as the 5-min. stuff, but that's just the price of admission for a high strength bond.

[victor10]

[quote name='bepo' timestamp='1324698656' post='3982171']
I've tried lots of epoxies and haven't found any I like. I originally tried several types of Lowes epoxy without much luck, they were too brittle and the heads came off pretty quick. I did a search here and found that golfsmith tour van epoxy was pretty good so I got some of that. Everything was good for about a month and then a few iron heads came off and my 3 wood head as well. I ordered some golfworks high strength epoxy and they don't lie, it is high strength. So high that I couldn't pull the shaft in my driver and had to drill it out. Why is it so hard to find good epoxy? I do have a high swing speed but I don't see any of the tour guys having problems with their clubs.
[/quote]

[color=#1C2837][size=2]3M DP810 is what I use. Never had a head come loose.[/size][/color]

[Awalkspoiled]

The Golfworks Max Strength Tour Set Plus is excellent - you'll need a 2:1 gun. DP810 is fantastic if you work quickly. I can't use it because I get a weird allergic reaction but would use it if I could. I've had several bad batches of Brampton's 10/10 which has soured me on their whole line, probably without cause - the 20/20 hasn't ever gone wrong for me, I just lost confidece in them.

[RobS]

3M DP810 and DP420.

[word]

If you have tried that many different ones and had so many problems, you aren't doing it right.

[Nessism]

[quote name='victor10' timestamp='1324745418' post='3983563']
[color="#1C2837"][size="2"]3M DP810 is what I use. Never had a head come loose.[/size][/color]
[/quote]

Fast dry and 4000 psi shear strength. Do they sell it in hobby friendly sized packages?

[url="http://www.3m.com/intl/kr/img/adh/adhesives/dpseries/DP810.pdf"]http://www.3m.com/in...eries/DP810.pdf[/url]

[Socrates]

Mitchell (I'm sure others too) sells it in 50ml tubes.

[url="http://www.mitchellgolf.com/products/3M_Scotch_Weld_DP810_Acrylic_Epoxy-247-17.html"]Mitchell DP 810[/url]

[blade_man]

[quote name='Socrates' timestamp='1324704731' post='3982525']
An oft talked about topic and quite honestly, the one where most people are too willing to blame the epoxy and don't look in the mirror for the answer to their woes. While there are some epoxies that are better at certain things (golf assembly) than others, It almost always comes down to the person doing or not doing a few things right. Clean and prep the shaft, clean and prep the hosel, mix the epoxy properly and let it cure properly. You do those things and you should never have a problem - ever. Why do people like to use certain epoxies (Golfsmith, 3M DPxxx, Brampton, etc...)? It's not that there is something magical going on, but they usually are a little more elastic so they can handle shock a little better and quite often they perform well even if the surfaces are contaminated so you don't have to have it surgically clean when you assemble. Better epoxies give you more room for error if you need it, but you shouldn't.
[/quote]


+1 +1 +1!

[Cwebb]

The Golfworks developed this epoxy line to compete with the 3M products, at a lower price. They did a great job and it's all I use now. Have never had a single problem with it. Both the "maximum high strength" and the "Tour Set" have a shear strength at 4500psi

It's a bit thick when it comes out of the 2:1 gun, so it really helps to heat it up a bit next to a small heater before and during mixing, to increase the viscosity.

Highly recommended...
http://www.golfworks.com/category.asp_Q_pc_E_4_A_c_E_33_A_c2c_E_ln

[johnnythunders]

started assembling clubs in 1988, did hundreds of sets during the component years. Haven't built in sets in at least 5 years as the OEM stuff drops so quickly in price its cheaper than building your own.

But I've used the regular Golfsmith or Golfworks epoxy and never had a problem. Prep is key, i make sure the shaft has all coating removed and then I rough it up a little with coarse paper. I have a number of things to clean out the hosel then I use an x-acto knife handle with oxide sandpaper stuck on and sand it out. Also some round files. Then acetone and let dry. I do not want any type of snug fit between the hosel and shaft, I sand until it is a little loose. Then I mix some shafting beads in with the epoxy and that snugs it up but leaves room for the epoxy to bond between both.

Works never lost one.

[super20dan]

also use the golfworks epoxey and never a problem

[bluequail]

[quote name='Johnny' timestamp='1324698916' post='3982189']
Brampton.. 20/20
[/quote]


+1

[mkay]

I could be wrong, but it sounds like you are only using the epoxy and no 2nd component?

[dlefty]

[quote name='Cwebb' timestamp='1324839401' post='3986277']
The Golfworks developed this epoxy line to compete with the 3M products, at a lower price. They did a great job and it's all I use now. Have never had a single problem with it. Both the "maximum high strength" and the "Tour Set" have a shear strength at 4500psi

It's a bit thick when it comes out of the 2:1 gun, so it really helps to heat it up a bit next to a small heater before and during mixing, to increase the viscosity.

Highly recommended...
http://www.golfworks.com/category.asp_Q_pc_E_4_A_c_E_33_A_c2c_E_ln
[/quote]

Agree with the GolfWorks stuff being fantastic, have tried all their newer stuff, all is great, all I use.

[cangolfnut]

[quote name='KYMAR' timestamp='1324733914' post='3983057']
[quote name='Socrates' timestamp='1324704731' post='3982525']
An oft talked about topic and quite honestly, the one where most people are too willing to blame the epoxy and don't look in the mirror for the answer to their woes. While there are some epoxies that are better at certain things (golf assembly) than others, It almost always comes down to the person doing or not doing a few things right. Clean and prep the shaft, clean and prep the hosel, mix the epoxy properly and let it cure properly. You do those things and you should never have a problem - ever. Why do people like to use certain epoxies (Golfsmith, 3M DPxxx, Brampton, etc...)? It's not that there is something magical going on, but they usually are a little more elastic so they can handle shock a little better and quite often they perform well even if the surfaces are contaminated so you don't have to have it surgically clean when you assemble. Better epoxies give you more room for error if you need it, but you shouldn't.
[/quote]

+1 I have used every epoxy mentioned and have never had an issue past maybe my 5th attempt. You must be precise in the mix. and your shaft tip must be well abraded. I also learned early on to not overdo it with the epoxy. A nice thin coating on all surfaces is all it takes. And never be in a hurry. If it's an hour cure time or 24 hour, let it work.
[/quote]


+2 I have never had any problems with Golfsmith or Golfworks epoxies.