Playing a fade question

[mdhacker123]

So lately I have been messing around with a couple of feelings but came across one in particular that felt very natural and causing me to strike it well. So I usually play a draw (right handed) to straight shot but lately struggling with consistency and missing it left. Now I was practicing and hitting from an open stance and swinging down my body line and noticed a very consistent fade with a nice high ball light with better then average dispersion for me.

 

Is there any negatives or who here does play from an open stance looking to fade. For me it felt like an out to in swing but results were very good.

[ebrasmus21]

I suspect you'll find a lot of people here enjoy and support playing the fade. If you can play it and play it with some consistency it sounds like you could be onto something in your game!

[Shipwreck]

The only thing I have noticed when playing a fade is a slight drop in distance, most likely because of the increased spin. But I find it a hell of a lot more controllable and predictable.

[Hubijerk]

I feel it's easier to maintain good striking when you use body rotation while keeping hands in to square the clubhead. To hit draws my arms separate a bit from my body and if not kept in check I can lose my feel pretty quickly. Most of the time I try to hit straight to fade shots by staying down and rotating. As long as I keep my body rotating hooks are never an issue. I feel like there are less moving parts in that swing. If I need more cut I just open the face a bit more at address.

[ebrasmus21]

I feel it's easier to maintain good striking when you use body rotation while keeping hands in to square the clubhead. To hit draws my arms separate a bit from my body and if not kept in check I can lose my feel pretty quickly. Most of the time I try to hit straight to fade shots by staying down and rotating. As long as I keep my body rotating hooks are never an issue. I feel like there are less moving parts in that swing. If I need more cut I just open the face a bit more at address.

 

All of this sounds appealing to me.

[Hubijerk]

I feel it's easier to maintain good striking when you use body rotation while keeping hands in to square the clubhead. To hit draws my arms separate a bit from my body and if not kept in check I can lose my feel pretty quickly. Most of the time I try to hit straight to fade shots by staying down and rotating. As long as I keep my body rotating hooks are never an issue. I feel like there are less moving parts in that swing. If I need more cut I just open the face a bit more at address.

 

All of this sounds appealing to me.

 

The feel I have is that from the top while still turned away I lunge my lower body pressuring my back instep while keeping my head back, my arms drop as I rotate and then the thought I have is hit it fat in front of the ball, driving club into the ground, then rotate my body to pull it out. The length of the club, the bounce on the sole, and the uniformity of you're rotation will ensure you don't dig. It's the constant I have in mind as I continue to make changes. The golfing machine, or at least aspects of it, Jim Waldron, and aspects of Hogan have been most beneficial to me I feel.

[thug the bunny]

#2, 3, and 4 posts are dead on for me. Slightly open, swing down the line, clubface square to line. Gives me room for my hands and arms to come through, and seems to encourage starting with the lower body. I used to chase the inside strike, but feeling stuck led to OTT too often. I think you should pursue this feeling.

[OrangeGravy]

#2, 3, and 4 posts are dead on for me. Slightly open, swing down the line, clubface square to line. Gives me room for my hands and arms to come through, and seems to encourage starting with the lower body. I used to chase the inside strike, but feeling stuck led to OTT too often. I think you should pursue this feeling.

 

All of this ^^^ and for me ball position is pretty forward. For me all of this much more natural feeling and allows me to play golf and less golf swing. Unfortunately I forget all of this from time to time as I haven't been able to play enough the last couple years and I by the time I get back to it, winter comes!

[fairways4life]

A fade is often not seen as sexy as a draw, but plenty of Hall of Famers got there with a fade.

 

I don't play it regularly but there are 3 holes on my home course in which I use it. Everything you described --- open the stance, keep the face square to the line, swing across it. I pay very close attention to the alignment of my shoulders and make sure they are consistent with my feet. Ball position is something you'll need to tinker with. I tend to play it slightly further back with a fade but that's just me. I also tee the ball just slightly lower for a fade.

 

Once you figure out just how much you need to adjust your setup and your starting line to hit a 10 yard fade vs. a 30 yard cut, it can be a great weapon.

[mdhacker123]

Yes I def found myself tinkering with ball position and I did notice a slightly distance in carry. I’m going to take it on the course and see how it plays in real conditions. Ill post results

[GMR]

With few exceptions (i.e. a 2-club drop in distance), I believe that any change that materially improves your dispersion is a change worth making. The closer you can consistently hit it to where you are aiming, the better you will score.

[thug the bunny]

#2, 3, and 4 posts are dead on for me. Slightly open, swing down the line, clubface square to line. Gives me room for my hands and arms to come through, and seems to encourage starting with the lower body. I used to chase the inside strike, but feeling stuck led to OTT too often. I think you should pursue this feeling.

 

All of this ^^^ and for me ball position is pretty forward. For me all of this much more natural feeling and allows me to play golf and less golf swing. Unfortunately I forget all of this from time to time as I haven't been able to play enough the last couple years and I by the time I get back to it, winter comes!

 

I should add that swinging more down the line instead of from the inside seems to help in keeping the face square longer through impact, although sometimes I still have to hold the face off if I am in hook mode..

[Yikes4]

So after about 400 balls or so I took it to the course and results were good. I was able to hit my stock draw when I needed but felt very confident with the open stance and swing down the line with irons. Shot a 79 and hit a lot of greens. Funny thing was my driver was very solid and usually is as long as I get my alignment right but with this club I setup with feet flared out and my back foot slightly inside my front. Iron setup was opposite and the combo didn’t throw me off. My misses with it was a straight shot with no fade so I came up left a cpl if times and once with the 5 iron I hit an ugly straight shank which I was able to get up and down from. Back out on the course on monday

[Conjohnson]

just be careful you don't start swinging super left (divots left) and of course make sure your club face is staying square and not opening especially (big ole slices, no distance)

 

I personally favor the draw. If you start having inconsistency's and your path is "cutty" the misses can be even worse, compared to your over drawn misses now.

[MooJersey]

I’m curious, as I’m starting to learn to fade. Are you supposed to cut across the target line from outside to in like a small slice? I was doing that with mixed results.

 

I normally draw from inside to out the target line. I figured you just flip it?

[nsxguy]

I’m curious, as I’m starting to learn to fade. Are you supposed to cut across the target line from outside to in like a small slice? I was doing that with mixed results.

 

I normally draw from inside to out the target line. I figured you just flip it?

 

Face angle determines the line the ball will start on.

 

Path determines the direction it will curve.

[Moshjean]

I pretty much exclusively hit a fade, wedges and short irons straight and fall right.

 

Pros: Consistent. I can hit a few balls and be ready to play. Misses (Short right) aren’t as destructive as my old swing. When I played a draw it required a lot of maintenance with the longer clubs to keep my dispersion tight.

 

Cons: When I’m not swinging well I can lose a club of distance and I miss to the right. I don’t struggle with distance but I could see this discouraging players with slower swings.

 

There is a stigma about fades because people associate them with over the top slices, but the same is rarely ever said about stuck hooks.

There isn’t a superior ball flight, It all boils down to what is going to help you shoot lower scores.

[MooJersey]

I’m curious, as I’m starting to learn to fade. Are you supposed to cut across the target line from outside to in like a small slice? I was doing that with mixed results.

 

I normally draw from inside to out the target line. I figured you just flip it?

 

Face angle determines the line the ball will start on.

 

Path determines the direction it will curve.

 

Ok ... but do you actually cross the target line? Out to in? Or should the oath come from the inside and just exit left quicker ?

[glk]

I’m curious, as I’m starting to learn to fade. Are you supposed to cut across the target line from outside to in like a small slice? I was doing that with mixed results.

 

I normally draw from inside to out the target line. I figured you just flip it?

 

Face angle determines the line the ball will start on.

 

Path determines the direction it will curve.

 

Ok ... but do you actually cross the target line? Out to in? Or should the oath come from the inside and just exit left quicker ?

You can draw, fade with any swing plane. Depends on a lot of factors such as ball position, club face path, low point control, . . .

 

Might want to look into the d-plane and get a basic understanding of it. And best advice I could give is to work on a repeatable swing plane not matter what it is - and club face control - pair those with low point control and some speed and you can pretty much hits shots you want to - but first step is to have a repeatable swing plane and club face control - path and face.

 

Here's some starter info.

 

 

https://www.andrewricegolf.com/andrew-rice-golf/2011/07/understanding-swing-plane-and-club-path

[dg_1983]

I'd not recommend actively thinking about cutting across the line or hitting from way inside.

 

Get a repeatable neutral swing path plane and face relationship then....

 

Alignment neutral = straight

Path Alignment a touch left of face = fade

Path alignment a touch right of face = draw

 

Extremes aren't good in golf

[hobbes928]

The only thing I have noticed when playing a fade is a slight drop in distance, most likely because of the increased spin. But I find it a hell of a lot more controllable and predictable.

 

This. Flies higher but I lost about half a club's distance.

[yellowballs]

I'd not recommend actively thinking about cutting across the line or hitting from way inside.

 

Get a repeatable neutral swing path plane and face relationship then....

 

Alignment neutral = straight

Path Alignment a touch left of face = fade

Path alignment a touch right of face = draw

 

Extremes aren't good in golf

Yeah, but to have a ball start left of target and fade (to target) wouldn't you need a face that is slightly closed (say 1*) and a path that is slightly more left (say 2*)? If this is correct doesn't it require a slightly out to in swing path? AKA slightly OTT?

[SNIPERBBB]

Not necessarily though that is how most people hit fades. Don't need a left path to fade the ball. Nor would you necessarily want to.

 

Look up the old threads on hitting the push fade.

[dg_1983]

I'd not recommend actively thinking about cutting across the line or hitting from way inside.

 

Get a repeatable neutral swing path plane and face relationship then....

 

Alignment neutral = straight

Path Alignment a touch left of face = fade

Path alignment a touch right of face = draw

 

Extremes aren't good in golf

Yeah, but to have a ball start left of target and fade (to target) wouldn't you need a face that is slightly closed (say 1*) and a path that is slightly more left (say 2*)? If this is correct doesn't it require a slightly out to in swing path? AKA slightly OTT?

 

Yes, but I didn't mention anything about start lines.

 

You are correct that if you start line was 5 yards left of final target then your path would have to be more than 5 yards left.

 

When you say out to in? What do you mean? Relative to the ball target line , yes face will be left with a path even further left......though I suppose what I'm saying is to get there, it's just your normal swing, it's not a OTT it's not cutting across it, it's just your normal swing but you've changed your allignemnt.

 

All of that said there is more ways to skin a cat and a more neutral path allaingment with a more up front ball will also create a fade that you just need to figure out face allaingment to start on your start line.

 

Swing path , swing direction and d plane and all that good stuff gets complicated fast for the Average Joe.

 

To get a fade, play about with allignemnt (path and face) and ball position. Don't mess with your swing intention, keep that neutral

[shortstop20]

I'd not recommend actively thinking about cutting across the line or hitting from way inside.

 

Get a repeatable neutral swing path plane and face relationship then....

 

Alignment neutral = straight

Path Alignment a touch left of face = fade

Path alignment a touch right of face = draw

 

Extremes aren't good in golf

Yeah, but to have a ball start left of target and fade (to target) wouldn't you need a face that is slightly closed (say 1*) and a path that is slightly more left (say 2*)? If this is correct doesn't it require a slightly out to in swing path? AKA slightly OTT?

 

Path will be left of target but square to the stance, face between path and target. Ball starts left of target and fades online.

[yellowballs]

I'd not recommend actively thinking about cutting across the line or hitting from way inside.

 

Get a repeatable neutral swing path plane and face relationship then....

 

Alignment neutral = straight

Path Alignment a touch left of face = fade

Path alignment a touch right of face = draw

 

Extremes aren't good in golf

Yeah, but to have a ball start left of target and fade (to target) wouldn't you need a face that is slightly closed (say 1*) and a path that is slightly more left (say 2*)? If this is correct doesn't it require a slightly out to in swing path? AKA slightly OTT?

 

Path will be left of target but square to the stance, face between path and target. Ball starts left of target and fades online.

What if you kept feet parallel to target line? Would you then have to swing out to in or OTT?

[glk]

I'd not recommend actively thinking about cutting across the line or hitting from way inside.

 

Get a repeatable neutral swing path plane and face relationship then....

 

Alignment neutral = straight

Path Alignment a touch left of face = fade

Path alignment a touch right of face = draw

 

Extremes aren't good in golf

Yeah, but to have a ball start left of target and fade (to target) wouldn't you need a face that is slightly closed (say 1*) and a path that is slightly more left (say 2*)? If this is correct doesn't it require a slightly out to in swing path? AKA slightly OTT?

 

Path will be left of target but square to the stance, face between path and target. Ball starts left of target and fades online.

What if you kept feet parallel to target line? Would you then have to swing out to in or OTT?

See my post #19 and watch video and read article.

[yellowballs]

See my post #19 and watch video and read article.

I should probably watch that more than once. So simple yet so confusing. Makes me wonder how in the world instructors ever gave lessons without technology like Trackman. Even the speaker said if we were looking at video only the guys swing would look out to in. Thanks for posting.

[getitdaily]

So lately I have been messing around with a couple of feelings but came across one in particular that felt very natural and causing me to strike it well. So I usually play a draw (right handed) to straight shot but lately struggling with consistency and missing it left. Now I was practicing and hitting from an open stance and swinging down my body line and noticed a very consistent fade with a nice high ball light with better then average dispersion for me.

 

Is there any negatives or who here does play from an open stance looking to fade. For me it felt like an out to in swing but results were very good.

 

Moved from a draw to a fade last year. Biggest thing for me is that you have to keep the clubface square to closed in the backswing. Opening the face on the way back leads to not good stuff when playing a fade.

[Harleyweedwhacks]

First off, a fade is a shot that starts slightly left of target and comes back to the right for right handers, say, maybe 5 or 6 yards for driver. A slice is a shot that starts left, and curves back as well, but way more, say 10 or more yards.

 

I tend to slice the ball around 15 yards with driver, and lose tons of distance. I literally lose around 20 yards. A slight fade is all that's needed here, not a big 15-20 yard slice like I play.

 

I lose at least two clubs distance with irons, and I'm hitting a 5 iron 170 where I should be hitting it around 195-200. My ball flight is really high and towering, and I can easily carry 70 foot trees with a three iron. It's useful to hit the ball that high sometimes, but in high winds like here in Florida, it's a nuisance. A draw would be more sensible for me, especially into the wind or if I simply want more distance.

 

I think if you're going to play a fade, it needs to be minimal, like 2-3 yards with a 6 iron and 5-7 yards with driver, max. This will be a true fade, and not a slice, like what I play. The ball flight on irons will look relatively straight to other players, mostly because the curve is so minimal that it's difficult to see. Even with driver, if it's a 5 yard curve, the ball flight will look relatively straight, so you might think you're not curving the ball at all, especially on longer distance drives. But every ball in golf curves, so you need to be able to adjust.