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Blade users thread (NO DEBATING CLUBHEADS! NO Buy Sell Trade!)


Bigmean

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When is a hole in one not a hole in one? So, I've been playing since 1964 ish. Long time, lot of golf with a lot of golfers. I have never had an ace and only seen one from someone in my group - 3 Jack Par who lurks around here, good player, slam dunks a 180 yard 7 iron. I have been playing a little 3 par course nearby - 18 holes, decent enough shape, not crowded, $5.50. I can play multiple balls as a solo, get around in 2 1/2 hrs. Nice. I was playing a little 105 hole, trying to take a little off a PW because I have ditched 50 for a 52 and 105 is out of range for me with the 52. I think I hit 4 balls from the tee, all seemed to be long. So I get up there, find the first 3, all long. Mind you, my memory of the 4 shots is vague, but I can't quite figure out where that 4th ball could be. I looked everywhere. Finally, as a lark and because I had run out of places to look, I look in the cup. As I approached it, and began to see the bottom of the cup, no ball. I almost turned around because I just didn't think it was there. But I took one last step to see the whole bottom of the cup and sure enough...

 

I don't consider it an ace. I don't even know which swing produced that shot. There was no sense of anything. Actually, my response is more black humor - naturally after 50+ yrs of playing golf, the only time I holed a tee ball is in these circumstances. Ha! Golf is a cruel mistress that has me as its love slave.

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Titlest Tsi2, 10*, GD ADDI 5
Titleist TSi2 16.5 GD ADDI 5

Callaway X-hot pro 3, 4 h
TM P790 5-W, DG 105 R
Vokey SM7 48, 52, 56
Cameron Futura 5W


 
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> @No_Catchy_Nickname said:

> There's a set of those TM blades in the local second-hand golf shop that I've been trying a bit recently. Kinda tempting....

 

So what are you waiting for? They aren't going to buy themselves!

Titleist 910D3 9.5°
Taylormade Rocketballz tour 18°

Mizuno MP-H4 2 iron
Callaway ApexMB '18 4 - PW
Vokey SM7 52° + 58°
Ping Scottsdale Halfpipe

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> @Jonesy said:

> > @No_Catchy_Nickname said:

> > There's a set of those TM blades in the local second-hand golf shop that I've been trying a bit recently. Kinda tempting....

>

> So what are you waiting for? They aren't going to buy themselves!

 

I know, I know...

 

I'm just running out of space to hide new sets of irons.

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> @Christen_The_Sloop said:

> I've decided I need to improve my wedge game, and significantly. When it's firing, so is the rest of my game (not often at all). It's the lynch pin to scoring. A swing thought that carried me a little in my last game, but was simply not the be all end all. I wanted to continue to turn through impact, to a balanced finish. The problem was marrying my arm and shoulder swing. A few times, I timed it right and those wedge shots came off beautifully. However, I need to be on target more. Wedges are where I should be attacking pins, not merely hoping to get it on the green. And so off to the range I went

>

> I finally got the arm/shoulder connection shored for partial shots and full shots were getting tighter and tighter too - I found it was really important to initiate the swing with shoulders and really focus on feeling the club head. Controlling the swing with the big muscles and being a little firmer in my hand action, but allowing some wrist hinge. The problem is, I work on something and forget it the next day, so here I am writing my thoughts.

>

> As for Sir Nick, I took another of the designs he had a hand in to the range for a second look. The Mizuno MS203 are such a lovely club. Definitely have to find a time to use them on course.

>

>

 

To follow on with this I've felt I hit my wedges the best when everything is 'passive' so my only thought is to really turn through the ball and just let the club to the work. I tend to get very handsy and overdo it with my wrists, I can get a lot on spin on the ball if my timing is right but if I'm slightly out I'm missing greens with a SW... Kinda like Mcilroy actually :D

Titleist 910D3 9.5°
Taylormade Rocketballz tour 18°

Mizuno MP-H4 2 iron
Callaway ApexMB '18 4 - PW
Vokey SM7 52° + 58°
Ping Scottsdale Halfpipe

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> @No_Catchy_Nickname said:

> > @Jonesy said:

> > > @No_Catchy_Nickname said:

> > > There's a set of those TM blades in the local second-hand golf shop that I've been trying a bit recently. Kinda tempting....

> >

> > So what are you waiting for? They aren't going to buy themselves!

>

> I know, I know...

>

> I'm just running out of space to hide new sets of irons.

 

 

I'll indulge myself in a brief moment of anti-enabling...

 

They're nice sticks, Catchy, but they really aren't better than what you have. Personally, I prefer my Muirfields, MP-37s, and various Rams to the TMs. Which is why I've never bought a set. Thought about it several times, but at some point, how many sets I can't play regularly do I need?

 

No, my wife is not dictating this, LOL

The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini 11.5*, 43.5", Phenom NL 60X -or- Cobra SpeedZone, ProtoPype 80S, 43.5"

Fwy woods: King LTD 3/4, RIP Beta 90X -or- TM Sim2 Ti 3w, NV105 X
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h, MMT 80 S 

Irons grab bag:  1-PW Golden Ram TW276, NV105 S; 1-PW Golden Ram TW282, RIP Tour 115 R; 2-PW Golden Ram Vibration Matched, NS Pro 950WF S
Wedges:  Dynacraft Dual Millled 52*, SteelFiber i125 S -or- Scratch 8620 DD 53*, SteelFiber i125 S; Cobra Snakebite 56* -or- Wilson Staff PMP 58*, Dynamic S -or- Ram TW282 SW -or- Ram TW276 SW
Putter:  Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34" -or- Cleveland Huntington Beach #1, 34.5" -or- Golden Ram TW Custom, 34" -or- Rife Bimini, 34" -or- Maxfli TM-2, 35"
Balls: Chrome Soft, Kirkland Signature 3pc (v3)

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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> @Jonesy said:

> > @Christen_The_Sloop said:

> > I've decided I need to improve my wedge game, and significantly. When it's firing, so is the rest of my game (not often at all). It's the lynch pin to scoring. A swing thought that carried me a little in my last game, but was simply not the be all end all. I wanted to continue to turn through impact, to a balanced finish. The problem was marrying my arm and shoulder swing. A few times, I timed it right and those wedge shots came off beautifully. However, I need to be on target more. Wedges are where I should be attacking pins, not merely hoping to get it on the green. And so off to the range I went

> >

> > I finally got the arm/shoulder connection shored for partial shots and full shots were getting tighter and tighter too - I found it was really important to initiate the swing with shoulders and really focus on feeling the club head. Controlling the swing with the big muscles and being a little firmer in my hand action, but allowing some wrist hinge. The problem is, I work on something and forget it the next day, so here I am writing my thoughts.

> >

> > As for Sir Nick, I took another of the designs he had a hand in to the range for a second look. The Mizuno MS203 are such a lovely club. Definitely have to find a time to use them on course.

> >

> >

>

> To follow on with this I've felt I hit my wedges the best when everything is 'passive' so my only thought is to really turn through the ball and just let the club to the work. I tend to get very handsy and overdo it with my wrists, I can get a lot on spin on the ball if my timing is right but if I'm slightly out I'm missing greens with a SW... Kinda like Mcilroy actually :D

 

 

I am a bit handsy in my swing as well, which is very likely a healthy portion of why I don't hit full shot wedges all that well. Once I get to those distances, I start hitting partial wedge shots instead of a full shot with something shorter.

 

I've spent a bit of time trying to practice holding off the release on partial wedge shots, with a fair amount of success.

The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini 11.5*, 43.5", Phenom NL 60X -or- Cobra SpeedZone, ProtoPype 80S, 43.5"

Fwy woods: King LTD 3/4, RIP Beta 90X -or- TM Sim2 Ti 3w, NV105 X
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h, MMT 80 S 

Irons grab bag:  1-PW Golden Ram TW276, NV105 S; 1-PW Golden Ram TW282, RIP Tour 115 R; 2-PW Golden Ram Vibration Matched, NS Pro 950WF S
Wedges:  Dynacraft Dual Millled 52*, SteelFiber i125 S -or- Scratch 8620 DD 53*, SteelFiber i125 S; Cobra Snakebite 56* -or- Wilson Staff PMP 58*, Dynamic S -or- Ram TW282 SW -or- Ram TW276 SW
Putter:  Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34" -or- Cleveland Huntington Beach #1, 34.5" -or- Golden Ram TW Custom, 34" -or- Rife Bimini, 34" -or- Maxfli TM-2, 35"
Balls: Chrome Soft, Kirkland Signature 3pc (v3)

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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I've ordered a 52 degree in the Cleveland RTX4 forged and I'll probably pick up the 60 before all is said and done too. It's time to simplify the set up 52 - 56 - 60. I have it in my mind that matching wedges is just the way to go (though I do love my EYE2 LW and the Cleveland 588 is money too). I think the Cleveland RTX4 is just that much better though, the spin you can put on the ball is just incomparable and the look and feel is darn good.

 

I'm pretty psyched to have Top Tracer at the range next to me, too. I think it's one of about 10 ranges in Japan that have it at the moment and it gets me that much more focused on practice and I can also feel like I'm in a game too. Not putting a lot of stock in the feedback, but it helps with the process, hitting one ball at a time and picking targets.

 

I've got to keep my game in shape because I can enter a few competitions this winter and I'm going to get a few games in Hawaii in February it looks like.

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> @NRJyzr said:

> > @No_Catchy_Nickname said:

> > > @Jonesy said:

> > > > @No_Catchy_Nickname said:

> > > > There's a set of those TM blades in the local second-hand golf shop that I've been trying a bit recently. Kinda tempting....

> > >

> > > So what are you waiting for? They aren't going to buy themselves!

> >

> > I know, I know...

> >

> > I'm just running out of space to hide new sets of irons.

>

>

> I'll indulge myself in a brief moment of anti-enabling...

>

> They're nice sticks, Catchy, but they really aren't better than what you have. Personally, I prefer my Muirfields, MP-37s, and various Rams to the TMs. Which is why I've never bought a set. Thought about it several times, but at some point, how many sets I can't play regularly do I need?

>

> No, my wife is not dictating this, LOL

 

I think it's time you took a time out from this site, NRJyzr. You have clearly forgotten the original mission!

 

No, you're kind of right. They're not going to be any better than my MP4s or FG62s, and as for classic irons, I've tons of those, so much so that I am preparing to thin the herd.

The 2011 TM blades interest me, I like them, but they're not good enough to replace either of the two sets I mentioned above.

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I saw my first set of MP20 blades in the wild today. A guy next to me at the driving range had a set. They look pretty nice, but he couldn't hit them for shit. I mean, slug-shagging cold tops and shanks.

He seemed to have a bag of brand new gear, so I'm wondering if he just started playing. Odd choice of iron if that's the case.

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> @No_Catchy_Nickname said:

> I saw my first set of MP20 blades in the wild today. A guy next to me at the driving range had a set. They look pretty nice, but he couldn't hit them for ****. I mean, slug-shagging cold tops and shanks.

> He seemed to have a bag of brand new gear, so I'm wondering if he just started playing. Odd choice of iron if that's the case.

 

The guy I bought mine from had used them on range for 45 min. Hit them fat back in the box and on to me.

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> @balls_deep said:

> > @No_Catchy_Nickname said:

> > I saw my first set of MP20 blades in the wild today. A guy next to me at the driving range had a set. They look pretty nice, but he couldn't hit them for ****. I mean, slug-shagging cold tops and shanks.

> > He seemed to have a bag of brand new gear, so I'm wondering if he just started playing. Odd choice of iron if that's the case.

>

> The guy I bought mine from had used them on range for 45 min. Hit them fat back in the box and on to me.

 

After watching him try to hit his for an hour, I felt like making a lowball offer for them!

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So, it’s winter and I’ve recently picked up tennis, so golf has been on my back burner for a little. Tennis is way easier than golf, and I think it’s doing really good things for my core and leg strength. Hoping to see big gains in swings speed over time as I get in better shape via tennis.

 

But, I got to play a Florida golf round yesterday with my BH Grinds. Really love those clubs. They’re indistinguishable from my Hogan Redlines, and they’ve got the same easy launching character and crazy soft feel. They also handled the super soft Florida turf like champs.

 

Unrelated, I really hate how soft Florida turf is, especially when wet/moist. My 14 degree bounce club will dig to China if I’m just the slightest bit fat on a pitch, in a way that would never happen up north. It’s not cool.

 

But, back to golf tech.

 

I put the new golf pride microsuede tour wraps on my clubs, and I’m in love. They have the tour wrap feel I’ve gotten used to, but they were great in the rain. No slip at all, without rain gloves. If you like tour wrap style, I highly recommend them.

 

Also, since it’s offseason, I’ve finally gotten around to getting my loft/lie adjusted on my CBs. Haven’t picked them back up yet, but excited to see how they turned out.

 

In the process, though, I took some swings against the mizuno shaft optimizer. It recommended Project X LZ 5.0, C Taper Lite S, and Nippon Modus 120 S abs my top 3 shafts. Number 4 was Modus 105 S.

 

I’ve hit the C Taper before and it wasn’t a good match. I do however love the Modus 120 in R, and the Modis 105 in S. I haven’t hit the Modus 120 in S yet, but I think it’s really interesting that the shaft optimizer agreed with what I kind of accidentally discovered—namely that I do really well with shafts in the 110 gram range.

 

I think the shaft optimizer is limited by mizuno stick choices, so it didn’t capture things like the modus 120 R or the new elevate tour shafts. But I think I’ll do a club champion full bag in December and then maybe reshaft my mp-4s via the mizuno factory with something in the nippon modus line.

 

Likewise, Project X 5.5 was on the list at number 8, between DG 105 S and DG 120 S, so it might explain why I haven’t had an issue playing with my current Project X 6.0s.

 

 

 

 

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> @revanant said:

> So, it’s winter and I’ve recently picked up tennis, so golf has been on my back burner for a little. Tennis is way easier than golf, and I think it’s doing really good things for my core and leg strength. Hoping to see big gains in swings speed over time as I get in better shape via tennis.

>

> But, I got to play a Florida golf round yesterday with my BH Grinds. Really love those clubs. They’re indistinguishable from my Hogan Redlines, and they’ve got the same easy launching character and crazy soft feel. They also handled the super soft Florida turf like champs.

>

> Unrelated, I really hate how soft Florida turf is, especially when wet/moist. My 14 degree bounce club will dig to China if I’m just the slightest bit fat on a pitch, in a way that would never happen up north. It’s not cool.

>

> But, back to golf tech.

>

> I put the new golf pride microsuede tour wraps on my clubs, and I’m in love. They have the tour wrap feel I’ve gotten used to, but they were great in the rain. No slip at all, without rain gloves. If you like tour wrap style, I highly recommend them.

>

> Also, since it’s offseason, I’ve finally gotten around to getting my loft/lie adjusted on my CBs. Haven’t picked them back up yet, but excited to see how they turned out.

>

> In the process, though, I took some swings against the mizuno shaft optimizer. It recommended Project X LZ 5.0, C Taper Lite S, and Nippon Modus 120 S abs my top 3 shafts. Number 4 was Modus 105 S.

>

> I’ve hit the C Taper before and it wasn’t a good match. I do however love the Modus 120 in R, and the Modis 105 in S. I haven’t hit the Modus 120 in S yet, but I think it’s really interesting that the shaft optimizer agreed with what I kind of accidentally discovered—namely that I do really well with shafts in the 110 gram range.

>

> I think the shaft optimizer is limited by mizuno stick choices, so it didn’t capture things like the modus 120 R or the new elevate tour shafts. But I think I’ll do a club champion full bag in December and then maybe reshaft my mp-4s via the mizuno factory with something in the nippon modus line.

>

> Likewise, Project X 5.5 was on the list at number 8, between DG 105 S and DG 120 S, so it might explain why I haven’t had an issue playing with my current Project X 6.0s.

>

>

>

>

 

On the note of the optimizer, I’m starting to think it fits stiff. I’ve talked to a lot of people with my speed that got similar results in CTaper and $Taper 130x. In hindsight I should have just reshafted my MP20s but I wanted to get my money back before winter. Indoors off mats they were great with 130x but outdoors and in colder weather something just felt off. In comparison, even in cold temps X100 (also on the list) felt great. I’m kicking myself for letting a full set of $Taper 125 S+ get by me a month ago but at that point I hadn’t used the optimizer yet. Considering going to TXG this week to fit my irons so I know what to look for over winter as I’ll be spending some time in Florida.

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I’m actually moving back to South Florida in January. If you’ll be in the area, would love to play with you. You’ll have to live with me shooting mid 90s on a good day, but I’ll buy the beers after the round in payment. ;)

 

On the overly stiff vs accurate side, I thought the mizuno optimizer was pretty good. Both club champion and the optimizer has me in stiff flexes for a lot of shafts, but one thing my fitter at CC said to me is that “stiff” is kind of a meaningless designation—every manufacturer is different and there’s no standard on flex.

 

I think golf fitting is very much trial and error. I figure I’ll do the CC thing again since it’s cheap enough. 3.5 hour fitting for $175 on trackman—it’s basically just the price of sim time on a trackman with a free fitting thrown in. I’ll look closely at the LZ 5.0, and the nippon shafts that I know I like, and go with what feels good and is within my budget.

 

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> @balls_deep said:

> > @revanant said:

> > So, it’s winter and I’ve recently picked up tennis, so golf has been on my back burner for a little. Tennis is way easier than golf, and I think it’s doing really good things for my core and leg strength. Hoping to see big gains in swings speed over time as I get in better shape via tennis.

> >

> > But, I got to play a Florida golf round yesterday with my BH Grinds. Really love those clubs. They’re indistinguishable from my Hogan Redlines, and they’ve got the same easy launching character and crazy soft feel. They also handled the super soft Florida turf like champs.

> >

> > Unrelated, I really hate how soft Florida turf is, especially when wet/moist. My 14 degree bounce club will dig to China if I’m just the slightest bit fat on a pitch, in a way that would never happen up north. It’s not cool.

> >

> > But, back to golf tech.

> >

> > I put the new golf pride microsuede tour wraps on my clubs, and I’m in love. They have the tour wrap feel I’ve gotten used to, but they were great in the rain. No slip at all, without rain gloves. If you like tour wrap style, I highly recommend them.

> >

> > Also, since it’s offseason, I’ve finally gotten around to getting my loft/lie adjusted on my CBs. Haven’t picked them back up yet, but excited to see how they turned out.

> >

> > In the process, though, I took some swings against the mizuno shaft optimizer. It recommended Project X LZ 5.0, C Taper Lite S, and Nippon Modus 120 S abs my top 3 shafts. Number 4 was Modus 105 S.

> >

> > I’ve hit the C Taper before and it wasn’t a good match. I do however love the Modus 120 in R, and the Modis 105 in S. I haven’t hit the Modus 120 in S yet, but I think it’s really interesting that the shaft optimizer agreed with what I kind of accidentally discovered—namely that I do really well with shafts in the 110 gram range.

> >

> > I think the shaft optimizer is limited by mizuno stick choices, so it didn’t capture things like the modus 120 R or the new elevate tour shafts. But I think I’ll do a club champion full bag in December and then maybe reshaft my mp-4s via the mizuno factory with something in the nippon modus line.

> >

> > Likewise, Project X 5.5 was on the list at number 8, between DG 105 S and DG 120 S, so it might explain why I haven’t had an issue playing with my current Project X 6.0s.

> >

> >

> >

> >

>

> On the note of the optimizer, I’m starting to think it fits stiff. I’ve talked to a lot of people with my speed that got similar results in CTaper and $Taper 130x. In hindsight I should have just reshafted my MP20s but I wanted to get my money back before winter. Indoors off mats they were great with 130x but outdoors and in colder weather something just felt off. In comparison, even in cold temps X100 (also on the list) felt great. I’m kicking myself for letting a full set of $Taper 125 S+ get by me a month ago but at that point I hadn’t used the optimizer yet. Considering going to TXG this week to fit my irons so I know what to look for over winter as I’ll be spending some time in Florida.

 

Oh, if you still have your MP-20s, Mizuno will do dirt cheap reshaft from the factory. It’s a bit of a funky process—you bring to a retailer and have them send it in as a factory adjustment/repair, and mizuno will charge you based on the contract rates they have with the retailer. It various by retailer, but if I want to reshaft to modus, I can do it for $20 a shaft via pga superstore.

 

It’s really a great thing and principle, and speaks to how much Mizuno stands by their irons and how much they believe in the value of keeping their customers in the right fit/specs even if needs to change over time. Their entire stock lineup is basically available at cost, no charge for labor, and with a free regrip.

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> @revanant said:

> So, it’s winter and I’ve recently picked up tennis, so golf has been on my back burner for a little. Tennis is way easier than golf, and I think it’s doing really good things for my core and leg strength. Hoping to see big gains in swings speed over time as I get in better shape via tennis.

>

> But, I got to play a Florida golf round yesterday with my BH Grinds. Really love those clubs. They’re indistinguishable from my Hogan Redlines, and they’ve got the same easy launching character and crazy soft feel. They also handled the super soft Florida turf like champs.

>

> Unrelated, I really hate how soft Florida turf is, especially when wet/moist. My 14 degree bounce club will dig to China if I’m just the slightest bit fat on a pitch, in a way that would never happen up north. It’s not cool.

>

> But, back to golf tech.

>

> I put the new golf pride microsuede tour wraps on my clubs, and I’m in love. They have the tour wrap feel I’ve gotten used to, but they were great in the rain. No slip at all, without rain gloves. If you like tour wrap style, I highly recommend them.

>

> Also, since it’s offseason, I’ve finally gotten around to getting my loft/lie adjusted on my CBs. Haven’t picked them back up yet, but excited to see how they turned out.

>

> In the process, though, I took some swings against the mizuno shaft optimizer. It recommended Project X LZ 5.0, C Taper Lite S, and Nippon Modus 120 S abs my top 3 shafts. Number 4 was Modus 105 S.

>

> I’ve hit the C Taper before and it wasn’t a good match. I do however love the Modus 120 in R, and the Modis 105 in S. I haven’t hit the Modus 120 in S yet, but I think it’s really interesting that the shaft optimizer agreed with what I kind of accidentally discovered—namely that I do really well with shafts in the 110 gram range.

>

> I think the shaft optimizer is limited by mizuno stick choices, so it didn’t capture things like the modus 120 R or the new elevate tour shafts. But I think I’ll do a club champion full bag in December and then maybe reshaft my mp-4s via the mizuno factory with something in the nippon modus line.

>

> Likewise, Project X 5.5 was on the list at number 8, between DG 105 S and DG 120 S, so it might explain why I haven’t had an issue playing with my current Project X 6.0s.

>

>

>

>

 

Tour wraps are my favorite, like em corded, will try the new micro-suede's.

 

Btw, you would probably get on with classic Rifle shafts in 6.0 pretty well. They are a good match with traditional clubs, launch easily but do not balloon while maintaining a nice heft to them.

 

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> @Nard_S said:

> > @revanant said:

> > So, it’s winter and I’ve recently picked up tennis, so golf has been on my back burner for a little. Tennis is way easier than golf, and I think it’s doing really good things for my core and leg strength. Hoping to see big gains in swings speed over time as I get in better shape via tennis.

> >

> > But, I got to play a Florida golf round yesterday with my BH Grinds. Really love those clubs. They’re indistinguishable from my Hogan Redlines, and they’ve got the same easy launching character and crazy soft feel. They also handled the super soft Florida turf like champs.

> >

> > Unrelated, I really hate how soft Florida turf is, especially when wet/moist. My 14 degree bounce club will dig to China if I’m just the slightest bit fat on a pitch, in a way that would never happen up north. It’s not cool.

> >

> > But, back to golf tech.

> >

> > I put the new golf pride microsuede tour wraps on my clubs, and I’m in love. They have the tour wrap feel I’ve gotten used to, but they were great in the rain. No slip at all, without rain gloves. If you like tour wrap style, I highly recommend them.

> >

> > Also, since it’s offseason, I’ve finally gotten around to getting my loft/lie adjusted on my CBs. Haven’t picked them back up yet, but excited to see how they turned out.

> >

> > In the process, though, I took some swings against the mizuno shaft optimizer. It recommended Project X LZ 5.0, C Taper Lite S, and Nippon Modus 120 S abs my top 3 shafts. Number 4 was Modus 105 S.

> >

> > I’ve hit the C Taper before and it wasn’t a good match. I do however love the Modus 120 in R, and the Modis 105 in S. I haven’t hit the Modus 120 in S yet, but I think it’s really interesting that the shaft optimizer agreed with what I kind of accidentally discovered—namely that I do really well with shafts in the 110 gram range.

> >

> > I think the shaft optimizer is limited by mizuno stick choices, so it didn’t capture things like the modus 120 R or the new elevate tour shafts. But I think I’ll do a club champion full bag in December and then maybe reshaft my mp-4s via the mizuno factory with something in the nippon modus line.

> >

> > Likewise, Project X 5.5 was on the list at number 8, between DG 105 S and DG 120 S, so it might explain why I haven’t had an issue playing with my current Project X 6.0s.

> >

> >

> >

> >

>

> Tour wraps are my favorite, like em corded, will try the new micro-suede's.

>

> Btw, you would probably get on with classic Rifle shafts in 6.0 pretty well. They are a good match with traditional clubs, launch easily but do not balloon while maintaining a nice heft to them.

>

 

Thanks for the tip!

 

Does someone out there make corded tour wraps?

 

Although honestly, I don’t know that I need the extra abrasion. The micro suede really held up in the rain, no issues.

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> @revanant said:

> > @Nard_S said:

> > > @revanant said:

> > > So, it’s winter and I’ve recently picked up tennis, so golf has been on my back burner for a little. Tennis is way easier than golf, and I think it’s doing really good things for my core and leg strength. Hoping to see big gains in swings speed over time as I get in better shape via tennis.

> > >

> > > But, I got to play a Florida golf round yesterday with my BH Grinds. Really love those clubs. They’re indistinguishable from my Hogan Redlines, and they’ve got the same easy launching character and crazy soft feel. They also handled the super soft Florida turf like champs.

> > >

> > > Unrelated, I really hate how soft Florida turf is, especially when wet/moist. My 14 degree bounce club will dig to China if I’m just the slightest bit fat on a pitch, in a way that would never happen up north. It’s not cool.

> > >

> > > But, back to golf tech.

> > >

> > > I put the new golf pride microsuede tour wraps on my clubs, and I’m in love. They have the tour wrap feel I’ve gotten used to, but they were great in the rain. No slip at all, without rain gloves. If you like tour wrap style, I highly recommend them.

> > >

> > > Also, since it’s offseason, I’ve finally gotten around to getting my loft/lie adjusted on my CBs. Haven’t picked them back up yet, but excited to see how they turned out.

> > >

> > > In the process, though, I took some swings against the mizuno shaft optimizer. It recommended Project X LZ 5.0, C Taper Lite S, and Nippon Modus 120 S abs my top 3 shafts. Number 4 was Modus 105 S.

> > >

> > > I’ve hit the C Taper before and it wasn’t a good match. I do however love the Modus 120 in R, and the Modis 105 in S. I haven’t hit the Modus 120 in S yet, but I think it’s really interesting that the shaft optimizer agreed with what I kind of accidentally discovered—namely that I do really well with shafts in the 110 gram range.

> > >

> > > I think the shaft optimizer is limited by mizuno stick choices, so it didn’t capture things like the modus 120 R or the new elevate tour shafts. But I think I’ll do a club champion full bag in December and then maybe reshaft my mp-4s via the mizuno factory with something in the nippon modus line.

> > >

> > > Likewise, Project X 5.5 was on the list at number 8, between DG 105 S and DG 120 S, so it might explain why I haven’t had an issue playing with my current Project X 6.0s.

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> >

> > Tour wraps are my favorite, like em corded, will try the new micro-suede's.

> >

> > Btw, you would probably get on with classic Rifle shafts in 6.0 pretty well. They are a good match with traditional clubs, launch easily but do not balloon while maintaining a nice heft to them.

> >

>

> Thanks for the tip!

>

> Does someone out there make corded tour wraps?

>

> Although honestly, I don’t know that I need the extra abrasion. The micro suede really held up in the rain, no issues.

 

To clarify Tour Velvet Cord, can get them by order through GG or Golfworks. They weigh in at 58g so there's that too.

 

Played today, 50* blustery and over cast. Brutal but doable. Shot 82, was 6 over standing on 14th, melted like wicked witch of Oz from there but not dissatisfied. Had some real good quality play going on. Used a Mc Henry Metals #5W to great effect. Course plays at 6400 yards but because of conditions felt like 6900. Big nemesis for me is laying off on metals (especially later in rounds) and getting stuck. Big flip hook or buy ya papaya push ensues. Rest of bag held up better. Warm couch, cold beer and NFL felt quite good afterward.

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My year has been somewhat sideways on the net of things but there's real progress made on quality and of game awareness. There's two axioms that echo loud to me these days:

 

Jack said, "the game of golf really commences with the approach in."

Hogan said, "the most important shot on any hole is the tee shot."

 

Both are very true and might sound cliche but as mortals we tend to spearhead success with irons , particularly mid irons. That experience can color our prism of what defines improvement to the effect that we over weight their importance. I've spent last several years trying to improve core competency of swing and invariably spent way too much effort spearheading that with irons. Reflecting on that leads me to appreciate what Ben & Jack stated and if I were to have embraced that more, I would have dedicated much more effort to tee game and game from cup back more. More wedge, more driver, less #7i. Mastering the extreme end of bags will invariable improve the middle too. Guys who are sub 5 impress me with their tee game and green game. Their 7i is rarely anything all that special. Perhaps it possesses more solidity but the solidity of tee to fairway and ability to close out a hole has always been much more impressive.

 

I bought into this mind set over a year ago, still work on mechanics and hit a bunch mid irons doing so but going forward nailing down both ends of the bags to higher degree will take precedent. Distance control of short, dispersion of long and the nuances entailed with doing both will get heavy conditioning. We're taught to develop one swing for all clubs, makes sense to keep it simple but advanced players master many degrees of nuance to that "one swing". I love MB's, can even play ones with Tour stiff shafts. Fully believe in dressing for job you desire one day and not the one your interviewing for. Allowing for their pull, my game has gone in positive areas and that are, at times, flat out heady. But I've chased that pull too much, going to balance out my attack of improvement in a more rounded out fashion. Going to listen to the greats.

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The toptracer at my range is really interesting. Definitely, pushing me more and more to get over there and hit balls and it's nice that I can make a game of it and hit different shots - for example played Harbour Town and had to play a little more strategically than St. Andrew. Not saying there's no strategy there, though... One of the aspects I am really getting more and more into is the statistics. For years I didn't bother to find my swing speed (every places measures in M/s, but I was able to calculate my ball speed and it's still pretty decent. From 169mph at the beginning of my session to about 163 at the end. I tend to launch the ball low too at averaging about 10 degrees. So, that's probably costing me a little distance. Finally, I've found that driver is the most consistent club in my bag off the tee. For a while that spot was easily taken by my CLK hybrid. I couldn't miss with it, but I've come back down to earth with it. It's now about the same as my driver. Both are between 65-68 percent consistency.

 

I have to agree with Nard_S - Driver and wedges are really where it's at. Driver for me, is usually the only impressive part of my game - and in Japan, where there is no forgiveness (in course OB is more common than sand) I have the ability to block it all out, for the most part and smash. When my wedges are on, I can really enjoy the game. So, that is my goal, finding the distances and playing to them and having a feel for flights when I'm not sitting perfect. I miss the little 18 hole par 3 in my hometown where I could sharpen that aspect of my game.

 

Oh, and the toptracer also acts as a wonderful reality check... That Founders 200 series one iron I've got is just so inconsistent. Sometimes I can step up and hit a bunch in a row alright and other times I can't get it on track to save my life. Maybe I shouldn't hit it at the end of a session.

 

 

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Definitely in the same school of thought, getting off the tee and wedge game is where it's at.

 

Find a stock shot you can hit off the tee with confidence and you're good to go. Wedges you just have to grind with, that takes practice, but if you can dial down a distance for a full swing/3quarter swing/half swing per wedge your game has to improve.

 

Titleist 910D3 9.5°
Taylormade Rocketballz tour 18°

Mizuno MP-H4 2 iron
Callaway ApexMB '18 4 - PW
Vokey SM7 52° + 58°
Ping Scottsdale Halfpipe

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There's a saying I picked up loitering around these parts:

"Pro's hit low wedges and high drivers, Joe's do the opposite"

 

I, am Joe, desire to be more like pro. Pro's attenuate arm power as clubs get shorter, torso/shoulders/body dictate power, hands/arms are left to just controlling face & path. As clubs get longer, as body is put in a better position to do so, body amplitude increases but so does quotient of arm/hand power. Pro's with a driver in hand really fire and let go, with a wedge, rare to see them do that. It's one thing to be aware of that simple thing, quite another for body to do that and meter for it all the time. I'm at phase that dunce body finally understands this. Used to swing at "11" for everything, then at times, steered everything, now somewhat get that short's are at "8", mid's at "9" and long end need to have more arm oomph and swing them and body at "10" all without losing control. On short end, making good progress, beyond a #5i, I have work to do, in staying connected while I amp up as clubs get longer from there.

 

On wide open par 5's, my percentages are good, but on a 225-250 tight tee shot, I steer when I need to trust and let go more. 3 months ago, if I was 100 from pin would go "10" on 56*, now default is "7" w/ 52*. Had four of those Sunday, went 3 of 4 on up & down. Was -2 on (3) par 5's because wedge and driver had proper amplitude. Was +2 on (4) par 3's, solely because of chip/putting failures, tee balls were fine enough. Par 4's? +11 over 11 holes. Tee ball accounted for bulk of failure and put undo pressure on approach and short game and had 3 double bogies stepping in manure too many times after garbage tee effort.

 

So the metering thing, doing it in connected fashion, shoulders in charge and getting comfortable with that is what I'm kind of driving at. I do that, my misses might become a lot less catastrophic and ability to just eliminate doubles might do wonders for index.

 

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3vyqlmgkly3y.jpg

 

Prototype of dowel that I will use on builds. Made of hickory, has a counter bore for weighting and 2 relief slots for air. Come in at 2.5 grams. Taper matches shaft dimensions and diameters are set for a force fit on full seat. May add a couple of thin grooves on last 3/4" to allow slight flex or to just to seat better. Shafts are not perfectly round and goal is even pressure across entire area of dowel against steel & without over stressing shafts thin wall. Need to order some stuff and when it arrives I can start on builds. Will do "training wheel" ones but look forward to installing these along with CW shafts and leather grips to VR Pro's & FG 59's among others.

 

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Brother Nard, will you be epoxying those in place, or will they seat without that sort of adhesive? And how far down in the tip do they seat?

The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini 11.5*, 43.5", Phenom NL 60X -or- Cobra SpeedZone, ProtoPype 80S, 43.5"

Fwy woods: King LTD 3/4, RIP Beta 90X -or- TM Sim2 Ti 3w, NV105 X
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h, MMT 80 S 

Irons grab bag:  1-PW Golden Ram TW276, NV105 S; 1-PW Golden Ram TW282, RIP Tour 115 R; 2-PW Golden Ram Vibration Matched, NS Pro 950WF S
Wedges:  Dynacraft Dual Millled 52*, SteelFiber i125 S -or- Scratch 8620 DD 53*, SteelFiber i125 S; Cobra Snakebite 56* -or- Wilson Staff PMP 58*, Dynamic S -or- Ram TW282 SW -or- Ram TW276 SW
Putter:  Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34" -or- Cleveland Huntington Beach #1, 34.5" -or- Golden Ram TW Custom, 34" -or- Rife Bimini, 34" -or- Maxfli TM-2, 35"
Balls: Chrome Soft, Kirkland Signature 3pc (v3)

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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> @NRJyzr said:

> Brother Nard, will you be epoxying those in place, or will they seat without that sort of adhesive? And how far down in the tip do they seat?

 

I'm debating issue but will probably end up coating inner shaft of it. The force fit might be enough but added glue would be prudent. I see little issue of locking them in permanently and if needed, removal by heat gun, drill and wire brush seems doable My big concern has been with getting dimensions correct. This stems from experience with 681's. I lost a #6i shaft on the range, it snapped above neck. My guess is that dowel was over sized and that over stressed metal with install, so I don't want these to not come near doing that.

 

As far as how far down, I've gathered that SOP is to leave it a 1/4" short of bottom to allow for tip weighting. However, mine have 1/4" counter bore, so theoretically I can go flush with it. Once I get a handle on how much & what type of tip weighting I can adjust bore or just stop short of flush fit.

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My first guess on a shaft snapping as you describe would be corrosion over a possible stress point. Such as it seems to me, anyway.

The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini 11.5*, 43.5", Phenom NL 60X -or- Cobra SpeedZone, ProtoPype 80S, 43.5"

Fwy woods: King LTD 3/4, RIP Beta 90X -or- TM Sim2 Ti 3w, NV105 X
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h, MMT 80 S 

Irons grab bag:  1-PW Golden Ram TW276, NV105 S; 1-PW Golden Ram TW282, RIP Tour 115 R; 2-PW Golden Ram Vibration Matched, NS Pro 950WF S
Wedges:  Dynacraft Dual Millled 52*, SteelFiber i125 S -or- Scratch 8620 DD 53*, SteelFiber i125 S; Cobra Snakebite 56* -or- Wilson Staff PMP 58*, Dynamic S -or- Ram TW282 SW -or- Ram TW276 SW
Putter:  Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34" -or- Cleveland Huntington Beach #1, 34.5" -or- Golden Ram TW Custom, 34" -or- Rife Bimini, 34" -or- Maxfli TM-2, 35"
Balls: Chrome Soft, Kirkland Signature 3pc (v3)

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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> @NRJyzr said:

> My first guess on a shaft snapping as you describe would be corrosion over a possible stress point. Such as it seems to me, anyway.

 

Well, the clubs were "new", I bought them 2nd hand but guy had them in a bag, they were sitting in his man cave for a dozen years or so. I broke them in. Shafts are beef too. Swinging steep on a range mat is not the best thing for clubs but I'm not crazy floor banger nor do I swing at tour speed. Have snapped shafts that had 20 years on them and new spinner wedge variety, but both were at handle end. So dunno.

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Happens every year once the season is done. Starting to think about changes to the bag. LOL

Latest brainstorm is to go old school next year. Thinking about persimmons in the bag, or at most, some form of smaller stainless or Ti driver, under 300cc. And, back to the 1-SW/2-SW idea, which is really little more than throwing an iron in the 17* slot in my bag. I really struggled with a hybrid in that slot the last half of this season, and the times I played with the 1i or 2i there, I had better results.

With the MP37s in the bag, I'll be using a Mizuno Pro 2i at 17* or 18*, depending on possible tweaks to the MP37 lofts, with a GW at 52*. When Golden Rams are in the bag, in comes the Golden Ram 1i, and out goes the GW, since it is surplus and duplicative at that point.

Hoping to work my reshaft projects as well. Vibration Matched Golden Rams will get new shafts. TG-898 Rams will get new shafts, the SPB X are a bit much these days. And, I may finally finish shifting up the 986 Tours with DGS400. The humanity!

Those 986 Tours will definite get some bag time once done. That lack of offset is amazing to look down at. Only wish I had grabbed that 1i I'd seen a couple years ago on fleabay. Oh well.

The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini 11.5*, 43.5", Phenom NL 60X -or- Cobra SpeedZone, ProtoPype 80S, 43.5"

Fwy woods: King LTD 3/4, RIP Beta 90X -or- TM Sim2 Ti 3w, NV105 X
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h, MMT 80 S 

Irons grab bag:  1-PW Golden Ram TW276, NV105 S; 1-PW Golden Ram TW282, RIP Tour 115 R; 2-PW Golden Ram Vibration Matched, NS Pro 950WF S
Wedges:  Dynacraft Dual Millled 52*, SteelFiber i125 S -or- Scratch 8620 DD 53*, SteelFiber i125 S; Cobra Snakebite 56* -or- Wilson Staff PMP 58*, Dynamic S -or- Ram TW282 SW -or- Ram TW276 SW
Putter:  Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34" -or- Cleveland Huntington Beach #1, 34.5" -or- Golden Ram TW Custom, 34" -or- Rife Bimini, 34" -or- Maxfli TM-2, 35"
Balls: Chrome Soft, Kirkland Signature 3pc (v3)

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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