High Speed Players going with more spin?

[Kwward11]

Hey guys, looking for a little insight and experience here. 
 

Has anyone that’s high speed high spin played a “more forgiving” and spinnier head and found success? For reference my driver numbers are around 118-120, ball speed low to mid 170s, low 180s when it’s warm. Playing the Cobra LTDx LS with a TPT nitro, spinning around 1800-2000. It’s taken me A LOT to get my spin that low, I’m an early releaser where most of my speed comes from hands, borderline flippy. 
 

Here recently my driver has become borderline unplayable. The good shots are fantastic and go forever. But I can’t seem to hit any shaped shots with it. Line up left side of fairways, ball stays left into deep rough, same with right. The ball just doesn’t move, and then when it does curve, it’s off the planet. 
 

I guess what I’m asking is, has anyone that’s relatively high speed switched to a more forgiving driver head, played with the higher spin and just dealt with the distance loss? 
 

Also of note, I play in Oklahoma where the wind averages at least 15mph in the summer and my course puts a premium on driving. I need to get the ball in the fairway. 

[Trippels]

12 minutes ago, Kwward11 said:

Hey guys, looking for a little insight and experience here. 
 

Has anyone that’s high speed high spin played a “more forgiving” and spinnier head and found success? For reference my driver numbers are around 118-120, ball speed low to mid 170s, low 180s when it’s warm. Playing the Cobra LTDx LS with a TPT nitro, spinning around 1800-2000. It’s taken me A LOT to get my spin that low, I’m an early releaser where most of my speed comes from hands, borderline flippy. 
 

Here recently my driver has become borderline unplayable. The good shots are fantastic and go forever. But I can’t seem to hit any shaped shots with it. Line up left side of fairways, ball stays left into deep rough, same with right. The ball just doesn’t move, and then when it does curve, it’s off the planet. 
 

I guess what I’m asking is, has anyone that’s relatively high speed switched to a more forgiving driver head, played with the higher spin and just dealt with the distance loss? 
 

Also of note, I play in Oklahoma where the wind averages at least 15mph in the summer and my course puts a premium on driving. I need to get the ball in the fairway. 

Why would you want the spin as low as 1800-2000? You're in the company of some faster tour players with that ball speed, and they tend to aim for around 2500 spin. 

[Kwward11]

12 minutes ago, Trippels said:

Why would you want the spin as low as 1800-2000? You're in the company of some faster tour players with that ball speed, and they tend to aim for around 2500 spin. 

I think that’s where I’m getting off track. 
 

Obviously it’s fun hitting 177-181 ball speed at 13 degree launch with 1800 spin, but to be honest I’m finding that type of shot is only good in a simulator. It just doesn’t work in the real world. 
 

I will say in Oklahoma, fighting the wind with that spin can be tough. But apparently knuckleballs aren’t working either. I guess that just makes me leery of jumping up to that 2500 number. But I gotta do something 

[Phabs]

I’m pretty close to the same speed and I stopped chasing low spin heads two years ago.  Been in a standard head and hover around 2700-3000 spin on the driver and it’s the most consistent, controllable ball flight I’ve had in probably 6-7 years.  

 

I chased the low 2000’s spin numbers and figured out it made my control and accuracy crap the bed.  Just my swing and my results - lots of guys here live down there in spin and love it.  I don’t. 

[Phabs]

1 minute ago, Kwward11 said:

 

Obviously it’s fun hitting 177-181 ball speed at 13 degree launch with 1800 spin, but to be honest I’m finding that type of shot is only good in a simulator. It just doesn’t work in the real world. 

Ding ding ding. 

[Kwward11]

Just now, Kwward11 said:

I think that’s where I’m getting off track. 
 

Obviously it’s fun hitting 177-181 ball speed at 13 degree launch with 1800 spin, but to be honest I’m finding that type of shot is only good in a simulator. It just doesn’t work in the real world. 
 

I will say in Oklahoma, fighting the wind with that spin can be tough. But apparently knuckleballs aren’t working either. I guess that just makes me leery of jumping up to that 2500 number. But I gotta do something 

And I’ve been playing at scratch for years now, so it’s super frustrating to be so incompetent off the tee. I think I’ve fallen into the numbers trap and being the guy who can hit it 340. But my buddy is a +4 and hits it about 270 MAX and he waxes me 8/10 times. I guess I’m kinda answering my own question here 

[Trippels]

3 minutes ago, Kwward11 said:

I think that’s where I’m getting off track. 
 

Obviously it’s fun hitting 177-181 ball speed at 13 degree launch with 1800 spin, but to be honest I’m finding that type of shot is only good in a simulator. It just doesn’t work in the real world. 
 

I will say in Oklahoma, fighting the wind with that spin can be tough. But apparently knuckleballs aren’t working either. I guess that just makes me leery of jumping up to that 2500 number. But I gotta do something 

You on a foresight simulator? Because I can say with some certainty that the distance gain you see from the low spin on a simulator doesn't translate directly to the real world.

 

Besides, it's average distance in a playable dispersion where length matters. The occasional long ball is fairly useless on its own.

 

Also,with regards to more "forgiving" heads for higher speed. Drew Cooper uses the qi10 max, same as Nelly Korda. And he is cruising at over 200mph ballspeed.

Edited Tuesday at 02:37 AM by Trippels

[Kwward11]

19 minutes ago, Trippels said:

You on a foresight simulator? Because I can say with some certainty that the distance gain you see from the low spin on a simulator doesn't translate directly to the real world.

 

Besides, it's average distance in a playable dispersion where length matters. The occasional long ball is fairly useless on its own.

 

Also,with regards to more "forgiving" heads for higher speed. Drew Cooper uses the qi10 max, same as Nelly Korda. And he is cruising at over 200mph ballspeed.

Yeah I’ve hit on foresight and trackman. Numbers were similar. So I was just like well sh$t those numbers are cool. And now I’m hitting 40% of fairways and balls that go crooked are lost balls. 
 

Yeah I just have been stuck with the ego block of knowing 340-350 is possible, but if I can’t be okay with hitting it around 300 and hitting 50+% of fairways then that’s a me problem. If I line up one side or the other and if it isn’t 100% perfect, the ball is gone. 
 

I went to Bandon in April, had the standard Qi10. Hit it fantastic, but of course got annoyed about being 15-20 yards shorter than normal so went back to the Cobra LTD X LS. But it’s not fun to hit tee shots anymore lol 

[rooski]

I've been espousing the virtues of exactly this since I made the swap. I'm up around 120 CHS, and went to a softer shaft and one of the spinniest driver heads and it's the most fun I've had off the tee box in years.

 

I used to have my own "simulator setup" driver, but when I hit that on the toe on the course I was lucky to get 1,100 spin and it was just not even an actual ball flight.

 

I'm running about 2,400-2,500 off the toe and roughly 3,000 off the middle. It is likely the most accurate club in my bag now, and it still carries 300 in the real world so it's absolutely plenty.

 

Did I lose 20-25y potential from the absolutely nutted Triple Diamond Paradym Hulk shafted head I had before? Yes I did for sure, but there has never been a more worthwhile tradeoff in the history of my bag.. F*** that 25 yards man. Besides, if you're hitting with a tailwind and you actually get the ball up in the air it launches forever

 

CAN NOT RECOMMEND ENOUGH

Edited Tuesday at 03:16 AM by rooski

[Lasorcier]

What @rooski said.  The tradeoff is worth it.

 

It is my age showing but my average drive is right around 270.  I gave up the horsepower/low spin chase.  It just wasn't reliable.  I can get some nutted drives that do 300, but is not reliable and misses get punished).  What is reliable is a tsi3 over a tsi4 and what is super duper reliable (as in uncommon to miss a fairway) is a 2W (mini driver type thing).  the best part of the 2W for me is that on average it is less than 10 yards shorter than driver and stupid accurate.

 

Boring golf is okay and spin is actually your friend because it equals control (exception if you have too high of spin though).

[Cwebb]

2 hours ago, Kwward11 said:

And I’ve been playing at scratch for years now, so it’s super frustrating to be so incompetent off the tee. I think I’ve fallen into the numbers trap and being the guy who can hit it 340. But my buddy is a +4 and hits it about 270 MAX and he waxes me 8/10 times. I guess I’m kinda answering my own question here 

 

It would be interesting to see you try choosing a driver just based on your eye and real experience.  Then go check the numbers on it, just to see where you are

[Howard_Jones]

3 hours ago, Kwward11 said:

Hey guys, looking for a little insight and experience here. 
 

Has anyone that’s high speed high spin played a “more forgiving” and spinnier head and found success? For reference my driver numbers are around 118-120, ball speed low to mid 170s, low 180s when it’s warm. Playing the Cobra LTDx LS with a TPT nitro, spinning around 1800-2000. It’s taken me A LOT to get my spin that low, I’m an early releaser where most of my speed comes from hands, borderline flippy. 
 

Here recently my driver has become borderline unplayable. The good shots are fantastic and go forever. But I can’t seem to hit any shaped shots with it. Line up left side of fairways, ball stays left into deep rough, same with right. The ball just doesn’t move, and then when it does curve, it’s off the planet. 
 

I guess what I’m asking is, has anyone that’s relatively high speed switched to a more forgiving driver head, played with the higher spin and just dealt with the distance loss? 
 

Also of note, I play in Oklahoma where the wind averages at least 15mph in the summer and my course puts a premium on driving. I need to get the ball in the fairway. 

what is the sum weight of changable weights on the head you play?

 

If they are 15 to 20 grams, my suggestion would be to remove them, and replace that wgt with hotmelt under the crown of the head to lift VCOG.

 

You can try it of by removing the screw wgts, and use lead tape on top of the crown.

 

just place some masking tape there first to protect the crown.

 

this might solve it, for a fragment of the cost of a new head, and you will know if it works before you go all the way and add hotmelt, so its a test you can doo with full regret option if its not good enough.

 

@Tbone107

chime in here please

 

[Urb]

TSR3 was the tweener head that got my spin where it needed to be.  It's not a super low spin head but it's not an MOI monster.  

[rsballer10]

9 hours ago, Kwward11 said:

Has anyone that’s high speed high spin played a “more forgiving” and spinnier head and found success? For reference my driver numbers are around 118-120, ball speed low to mid 170s, low 180s when it’s warm. Playing the Cobra LTDx LS with a TPT nitro, spinning around 1800-2000. It’s taken me A LOT to get my spin that low, I’m an early releaser where most of my speed comes from hands, borderline flippy

As everyone has already concluded, this spin rate is too low to be stable on the course. Only takes a few hundred RPM drop to get a completely unplayable flight.

 

10 hours ago, Kwward11 said:

I guess what I’m asking is, has anyone that’s relatively high speed switched to a more forgiving driver head, played with the higher spin and just dealt with the distance loss? 
 

Also of note, I play in Oklahoma where the wind averages at least 15mph in the summer and my course puts a premium on driving. I need to get the ball in the fairway. 

As long as you don't go too far in the other direction and play with too much spin, you'll be OK. In our minds, we remember the 1,800 spin knuckler that goes 20 yards further than ever before, but forget the unstable toe strikes that put us in trouble and pull our average driving distance way down. Also consider that super low spin in high winds can be a disaster as well.

 

9 hours ago, Kwward11 said:

I went to Bandon in April, had the standard Qi10. Hit it fantastic, but of course got annoyed about being 15-20 yards shorter than normal so went back to the Cobra LTD X LS. But it’s not fun to hit tee shots anymore lol 

Ever consider a mini driver or strong 3 wood? Maybe turn the loft sleeve on the LTDx LS up 1 notch? It's the driver I play and have found that it favors a little extra loft compared to other drivers.

[svlido]

10 hours ago, Trippels said:

Why would you want the spin as low as 1800-2000? You're in the company of some faster tour players with that ball speed, and they tend to aim for around 2500 spin. 

I'm right about 180 ball speed, 120-22 club speed and AOA of 5.  I don't see sub 2000 spin with a set up very often but when I do the ball goes all over the place.  I play a TP5X, Qi10LS turned down to 7.5 and Ventus black currently and that keeps me around 2400-2600.

 

At those speeds I've found the ball makes a really big difference.  TP5X and left dash both spin the same for me so if you're playing one of those try a regular TP5 or a ProV1X to bring the spin up a little bit.

[Kwward11]

9 hours ago, rooski said:

I've been espousing the virtues of exactly this since I made the swap. I'm up around 120 CHS, and went to a softer shaft and one of the spinniest driver heads and it's the most fun I've had off the tee box in years.

 

I used to have my own "simulator setup" driver, but when I hit that on the toe on the course I was lucky to get 1,100 spin and it was just not even an actual ball flight.

 

I'm running about 2,400-2,500 off the toe and roughly 3,000 off the middle. It is likely the most accurate club in my bag now, and it still carries 300 in the real world so it's absolutely plenty.

 

Did I lose 20-25y potential from the absolutely nutted Triple Diamond Paradym Hulk shafted head I had before? Yes I did for sure, but there has never been a more worthwhile tradeoff in the history of my bag.. F*** that 25 yards man. Besides, if you're hitting with a tailwind and you actually get the ball up in the air it launches forever

 

CAN NOT RECOMMEND ENOUGH

I think I just needed to hear someone else say it. Hahaha I appreciate it!

[Stuart_G]

11 hours ago, Kwward11 said:

Here recently my driver has become borderline unplayable. The good shots are fantastic and go forever. But I can’t seem to hit any shaped shots with it. Line up left side of fairways, ball stays left into deep rough, same with right. The ball just doesn’t move, and then when it does curve, it’s off the planet. 
 

I guess what I’m asking is, has anyone that’s relatively high speed switched to a more forgiving driver head, played with the higher spin and just dealt with the distance loss?

 

Sorry - but most reponders here so far are jumping to conclusions without getting enough information first.

 

The first question that needs to be asked - is what is the source of the inconsistency?

 

Inconsistent path or face-to-path?

Inconsistent face impact location?

(or possibly both).

 

It's no, it's definitely not the low spin that's contributing to the dispersion problems.   More spin by itself will NOT help with inconsistency and dispersion. At least not in the context we're talking about here with a driver.  That's a very common misconception but actually has no valid scientific basis and can be debunked easily if one takes the time to actually do the math.

 

A higher MOI (more forgiving head) will only really help in the context of inconsistent face impact location.   So if the problem is largely path or face-to-path consistency - going to a more forgiving head is not going to help with dispersion.    If you want to add enough "spin" to help with dispersion - just use your 3wd - that's how much of a change in loft you'll need to help dispersion.

 

That leaves making sure the things like the shaft weight, swing weight and playing length are a good fit for your swing as a way to possibly help with dispersion when the root cause is really a swing problem.   Some people might find a softer shaft helpful - as it might slow down and even out the transition (think auto-flex).  But it's less predictable (not reliable) compared to working with weight how someone might respond to that kind of change.

 

If the problem is (or includes) inconsistent face impact location, as I implied earlier, a higher MOI head model might help some.  Whether or not it will be enough and additional club changes (like shorter playing length) might also be needed.

 

So before spending any money - your best bet is to go through this self fitting tutorial to look at playing length, shaft weight, and head weight first and see what you can do.   Then, if that's not enough maybe resort to a higher MOI head.

 

 

Edited Tuesday at 01:07 PM by Stuart_G

[Kwward11]

47 minutes ago, rsballer10 said:

As everyone has already concluded, this spin rate is too low to be stable on the course. Only takes a few hundred RPM drop to get a completely unplayable flight.

 

As long as you don't go too far in the other direction and play with too much spin, you'll be OK. In our minds, we remember the 1,800 spin knuckler that goes 20 yards further than ever before, but forget the unstable toe strikes that put us in trouble and pull our average driving distance way down. Also consider that super low spin in high winds can be a disaster as well.

 

Ever consider a mini driver or strong 3 wood? Maybe turn the loft sleeve on the LTDx LS up 1 notch? It's the driver I play and have found that it favors a little extra loft compared to other drivers.

thanks for your replies!! Yeah I kinda knew what I needed to do, just wanted to make sure I wasn’t alone. Hahaha 

 

I’ve tried the mini driver game, it worked for a while but didn’t last. What really sucks is now I’ve been tinkering with my swing trying to fix it, so now I’m swinging it like crap trying to compensate for a driver that probably doesn’t fit me 

[Stuart_G]

1 minute ago, Kwward11 said:

thanks for your replies!! Yeah I kinda knew what I needed to do, just wanted to make sure I wasn’t alone. Hahaha 

 

I’ve tried the mini driver game, it worked for a while but didn’t last. What really sucks is now I’ve been tinkering with my swing trying to fix it, so now I’m swinging it like crap trying to compensate for a driver that probably doesn’t fit me 

 

More likely is that it just takes a lot of time and effort to get the swing change ingrained - especially with the driver.   Even for the tour pros it can take months to fully incorporate very small changes and that's working on it for hours every day.   I wouldn't blame the fit of the club - at least not yet.

[Kwward11]

3 minutes ago, Stuart_G said:

 

Sorry - but most reponders here so far are jumping to conclusions without getting enough information first.

 

The first question that needs to be asked - is what is the source of the inconsistency?

 

Inconsistent path or face-to-path?

Inconsistent face impact location?

(or possibly both).

 

It's no, it's definitely not the low spin that's contributing to the dispersion problems.   More spin by itself will NOT help with inconsistency and dispersion. That's a very common misconception but actually has no valid scientific basis and can be debunked easily if one takes the time to actually do the math.

 

A higher MOI (more forgiving head) will only really help in the context of inconsistent face impact location.   So if the problem is largely path or face-to-path consistency - going to a more forgiving head is not going to help with dispersion.    If you want to add enough "spin" to help with dispersion - just use your 3wd - that's how much of a change in loft you'll need to help dispersion.

 

That leaves making sure the things like the shaft weight, swing weight and playing length are a good fit for your swing as a way to possibly help with dispersion when the root cause is really a swing problem.

 

If the problem is (or includes) inconsistent face impact location, as I implied earlier, a higher MOI head model might help some.  Whether or not it will be enough and additional club changes (like shorter playing length) might also be needed.

 

So before spending any money - your best bet is to go through this self fitting tutorial to look at playing length, shaft weight, and head weight first and see what you can do.   Then, if that's not enough maybe resort to a higher MOI head.

 

 

I appreciate this reply! So I consider myself a good player, I do battle some in-to-out path issues and big draws but I’ve actually corrected most of it. 
 

Im afraid now I’ve got so much scar tissue with the driver I’m tinkering and doing bad things in my swing trying to compensate. But even so, now my good swings and good ball flights just don’t do what I feel like they should. I know that’s a dumb and elementary answer, but at this point I think it’s a lack of confidence mixed in with a driver that’s honestly just hard to hit. 
 

I’ve never been super accurate off the tee, but now I’ve ventured into lost ball territories that kill my rounds, so I guess I’m just searching for an answer. 

[Stuart_G]

1 minute ago, Kwward11 said:

I know that’s a dumb and elementary answer, but at this point I think it’s a lack of confidence mixed in with a driver that’s honestly just hard to hit.

 

Confidence is certainly a very important aspect.

 

But the only way to really pin down if it is an issue with the fit of the driver - is to do a lot of trial and error testing to find out what about it is a bad fit or what might be a better fit. 

 

5 minutes ago, Kwward11 said:

Im afraid now I’ve got so much scar tissue with the driver I’m tinkering and doing bad things in my swing trying to compensate. But even so, now my good swings and good ball flights just don’t do what I feel like they should.

 

I'm not a pro - and if you're using one, it sounds to me like you might need to get a bit more objective (outside) opinions on those changes and how effective you might be at making them.   It doesn't really matter how good you are, just relying on the ball flight alone to judge the quality of those changes is not very reliable - especially for any "work in progress."   Even tour pros need that kind of objective evaluation.

 

But that aside, if you need to make some changes to help with the confidence (if nothing else) the best things to focus on first are the factors covered by the DIY fitting tutorial in the link I shared.   Those are the ones that tend to have the greatest effect on the highest percentage of people.   Although since we're dealing with shot shape control - it might not be a bad idea to mess around with face angle as well (using the hosel loft settings).   Even if you might need to go further and look at things like shaft stiffness or other aspects of the head design,  you need to make sure the basics are a good fit first.

 

[Kwward11]

10 minutes ago, Stuart_G said:

 

Confidence is certainly a very important aspect.

 

But the only way to really pin down if it is an issue with the fit of the driver - is to do a lot of trial and error testing to find out what about it is a bad fit or what might be a better fit. 

 

 

I'm not a pro - and if you're using one, it sounds to me like you might need to get a bit more objective (outside) opinions on those changes and how effective you might be at making them.   It doesn't really matter how good you are, just relying on the ball flight alone to judge the quality of those changes is not very reliable - especially for any "work in progress."   Even tour pros need that kind of objective evaluation.

 

But that aside, if you need to make some changes to help with the confidence (if nothing else) the best things to focus on first are the factors covered by the DIY fitting tutorial in the link I shared.   Those are the ones that tend to have the greatest effect on the highest percentage of people.   Although since we're dealing with shot shape control - it might not be a bad idea to mess around with face angle as well (using the hosel loft settings).   Even if you might need to go further and look at things like shaft stiffness or other aspects of the head design,  you need to make sure the basics are a good fit first.

 

Man I appreciate all your insight. One thing that’s tough around here is there’s really nowhere to do a major fitting outdoors, and I can’t trust indoor numbers lol. I’ll get it figured out one way or another though. I appreciate it!

[bcflyguy1]

11 hours ago, Kwward11 said:

 

I guess what I’m asking is, has anyone that’s relatively high speed switched to a more forgiving driver head, played with the higher spin and just dealt with the distance loss? 
 

The list of pro players that this would be true of is long and distinguished.

You're on the right track here. It's instructive that many of the younger guys who squish it are in drivers like TSR2, G430 etc. They bring all the distance they need to the table, and are looking for a driver to keep the guard rails up for them as much as possible.

There's a massive difference between fitting up a driver (and a whole bag set-up, for that matter) to make Trackman squeal and finding the right balance of boom, repeatability, and playability.

[Stuart_G]

15 minutes ago, Kwward11 said:

Man I appreciate all your insight. One thing that’s tough around here is there’s really nowhere to do a major fitting outdoors, and I can’t trust indoor numbers lol. I’ll get it figured out one way or another though. I appreciate it!

 

For what you're looking for, you're likely better off doing it yourself for most of those specs - that's why I gave the link to the tutorial to get you started.   Sure when it comes time to trying out different shaft stiffness profiles you might have to find dome demo days - but either way you'll at least have the desired shaft weight to limit the ones you'll have to try out when the opportunity does arise.

 

Second, don't worry about the numbers yet, just focus on the general ball flight consistency and face impact consistency (with foot powder spray - not feel).   That is the main problem you need to address and the root of the confidence problems.   Once you get shot shape control and consistency the best you can (with equipment changes), then you can start looking at numbers to see if you might need to tweak the loft to get optimal distance.

 

EDIT:

Also at you're level you should be able to trust your own assessment of how the club feels and how that feel might be influencing the swing - more than you should trust 99% of the people out there that call themselves fitters.  If it feels too heavy or too light or too soft or too firm - it probably is.

 

Edited Tuesday at 01:57 PM by Stuart_G

[RCGA]

10 hours ago, rooski said:

I've been espousing the virtues of exactly this since I made the swap. I'm up around 120 CHS, and went to a softer shaft and one of the spinniest driver heads and it's the most fun I've had off the tee box in years.

 

I used to have my own "simulator setup" driver, but when I hit that on the toe on the course I was lucky to get 1,100 spin and it was just not even an actual ball flight.

 

I'm running about 2,400-2,500 off the toe and roughly 3,000 off the middle. It is likely the most accurate club in my bag now, and it still carries 300 in the real world so it's absolutely plenty.

 

Did I lose 20-25y potential from the absolutely nutted Triple Diamond Paradym Hulk shafted head I had before? Yes I did for sure, but there has never been a more worthwhile tradeoff in the history of my bag.. F*** that 25 yards man. Besides, if you're hitting with a tailwind and you actually get the ball up in the air it launches forever

 

CAN NOT RECOMMEND ENOUGH

 

Same.

 

I spent so much time and money trying to build a "trackman" driver but couldn't find anything that was playable on the course with missshits and less than ideal launch conditions. 

 

Playing a higher spin driver setup means I'm hitting it shorter, but my my misses (toe + draw) are spinning enough to stay airborne. Completely turned my driving from a liability to a weapon.  

[Kwward11]

24 minutes ago, Stuart_G said:

 

For what you're looking for, you're likely better off doing it yourself for most of those specs - that's why I gave the link to the tutorial to get you started.   Sure when it comes time to trying out different shaft stiffness profiles you might have to find dome demo days - but either way you'll at least have the desired shaft weight to limit the ones you'll have to try out when the opportunity does arise.

 

Second, don't worry about the numbers yet, just focus on the general ball flight consistency and face impact consistency (with foot powder spray - not feel).   That is the main problem you need to address and the root of the confidence problems.   Once you get shot shape control and consistency the best you can (with equipment changes), then you can start looking at numbers to see if you might need to tweak the loft to get optimal distance.

 

EDIT:

Also at you're level you should be able to trust your own assessment of how the club feels and how that feel might be influencing the swing - more than you should trust 99% of the people out there that call themselves fitters.  If it feels too heavy or too light or too soft or too firm - it probably is.

 

yeah you’re right. Thanks for the help!

[Stuart_G]

3 hours ago, Kwward11 said:

yeah you’re right. Thanks for the help!

 

No problem.    Just one last warning to keep your expectations realistic. 

 

Sure, a poor fit for some people can cause problems with the swing and unwanted "fighting" with the club.  But a good fit isn't going to improve the swing itself - just give you the potential to put your best swing on it.

 

Also, try to stay away from the temptation to adjust your swing to the equipment. The idea of a fitting is to do the opposite.   Best way to do that is to not take more than 2 or 3 swings each time you make a change. Then "reset" your swing with a mid-iron periodically between tests.

 

Edited Tuesday at 05:59 PM by Stuart_G

[Kwward11]

12 minutes ago, Stuart_G said:

 

No problem.    Just one last warning to keep your expectations realistic. 

 

Sure, a poor fit for some people can cause problems with the swing and unwanted "fighting" with the club.  But a good fit isn't going to improve the swing itself - just give you the potential to put your best swing on it.

 

Also, try to stay away from the temptation to adjust your swing to the equipment. The idea of a fitting is to do the opposite.   Best way to do that is to not take more than 2 or 3 swings each time you make a change. Then "reset" your swing with a mid-iron periodically between tests.

 

Yeah I’m with ya. I’m definitely not swinging it the best right now, so I’m trying not to blame the equipment. But if anything I’m noticing how if my swing isn’t clicking, having a driver setup that allows zero room for error make it very tough to score. I’m not asking for perfection off the tee, I’m just looking for my equipment to help me rather than making me scared and having to hit my 3rd off the box lol 

[MattC555]

Similar handicap but a bit slower than you at 170mph ballspeed.  I will echo others here.  My driver miss is towards the toe.  If I get sub 2000rpm off the middle then a toe ball is dead and my dispersion suffers.  I prefer a center strike to be in the 2700rpm range.  Over 3000rpm and I'm losing too much distance.  TSR3 has been a really good compromise. 

[Tbone107]

13 hours ago, Howard_Jones said:

what is the sum weight of changable weights on the head you play?

 

If they are 15 to 20 grams, my suggestion would be to remove them, and replace that wgt with hotmelt under the crown of the head to lift VCOG.

 

You can try it of by removing the screw wgts, and use lead tape on top of the crown.

 

just place some masking tape there first to protect the crown.

 

this might solve it, for a fragment of the cost of a new head, and you will know if it works before you go all the way and add hotmelt, so its a test you can doo with full regret option if its not good enough.

 

@Tbone107

chime in here please

 

Ya thanks to @Howard_Jones advice I removed 7g from the sole and added ~12g of weight to the crown of the head on my frankenstein 2 wood and have a noticeable uptick in spin leading to greater accuracy and ability to shape the ball off the tee for me. 

 

With the driver I haven't had to do anything due to the design of the krank LD head having a higher then normal CG location (but at the same time playing it at 5 degrees of loft.) By design the CG is higher but the spin isn't super high with it for me more like a comfortable 2400-2500 rpm due to the loft I play it at. I am infinitely more consistent with this head then any other low spin head I've played in the past. 

 

I believe the combination of high CG, low loft and increased bulge and roll on the head has been a perfect combination for me and turned my driving accuracy from a negative to a positive since switching. 

 

I play the i210 irons as well after trying to find the highest CG possible and that part of my game has gotten much better as well with the ability to control trajectories and have consistent distance control. 

 

I am a big believer in high CG equipment for myself now and think a lot of other high SS players could benefit from going that route after what I've gained.