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Paint fill 101


HuckleBogey_Finn

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  • 2 weeks later...

[quote name='duytang' timestamp='1357658650' post='6190069']
[quote name='KaTooM' timestamp='1357474812' post='6177201']
[quote name='duytang' timestamp='1357447775' post='6176431']
New to the site, here is the paint fill I did on my Scotty
[/quote]

Very nice work...especially the "two tone" on the face!
[/quote]

thanks!

[quote name='LTaylor59' timestamp='1357653733' post='6189587']
I dont know what I was doing wrong...EVERY single one of these pictures is leaps and bounds better than mine turned out. Maybe I'm just not a painter

LT59
[/quote]where would I find a needle point applicator?

The key is to use a needle point applicator. Sure you can use a toothpick and I used to too, but a needle point applicator gives you so much more precision, less clean up, and you are able to do two tone lettering like in the picture I posted.
[/quote]

[list]
[*][size=4][b][color=#0000ff]Ping G410 LST, Mitsubishi Tensei Orange Pro [/color][/b][/size]
[*][size=4][color=#008000][b]Ping G410 3 wood, Mitsubishi Diamana BF[/b][/color][/size]
[*][size=4][color=#008000][b]Ping G410 3 hybrid, Mitsubishi Tensei Blue Pro[/b][/color][/size]
[*][size=4][color=#008000][b]Ping G410 4 hybrid, Evenflow Black[/b][/color][/size]
[*][size=4][b]Titleist T200 5-9 KBS Tour Flt [/b][/size]
[*][size=4][b][color=#daa520]Callaway MD5 45,49,54,58/[/color]
[*][color=#b22222][b][size=4]TP Mills Trad II Hand Forged [/size][/b][/color]
[/list]

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I've restored several Scotty Camerons.
1) If you sandout the dings and scratches you compromise the weight and stability - but it will look much better if you do.
2) Buffing requires several polishes - I use Nuvite metal polish, expensive but well worth it. Start with course grade and finish with S grade. I use a Dremel with different polishing wheels instead of a bench grinder with a buffing wheel.
3) Use mineral spirits to clean away the polish debris; when buffing around the embossed lettering you will remove the paint, this will be evident after cleaning with mineral spirits.
4) I've used several different paints, Markal Pro-Line paint pens are Ok, but they dry out fast. Model paint is a good option, but ensure you use enamel.
5) I paint the entire club face with one color at a time; fill in the area with the paint, allow it to pseudo-dry, enough for it to clean up but remain in the desired painted area. Using a cotton lint-free rag, with denatured alcohol or dispersed acetone, clean up the area where you may have overflow, which will most likely occur.
6) Eastwood Diamond Clear Gloss is a good sealant for finished metals. I've also used VHT Wheel Paint Clear Coat (Autozone), this has a residue that dulls the finish and will eventually rub off faster than the Eastwood product, but it will coat the club for a duration. Or you can leave the finished product as is.

The attached photo is a Scotty that did not get sanded - the owner didn't want to jeopardize the weight or stability. The color scheme matches the grip.

Larry @ Fixxin' Stixx
Sacramento, Ca

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[quote name='Fixxin' Stixx' timestamp='1404670310' post='9646725']
I've restored several Scotty Camerons.
1) If you sandout the dings and scratches you compromise the weight and stability - but it will look much better if you do.
2) Buffing requires several polishes - I use Nuvite metal polish, expensive but well worth it. Start with course grade and finish with S grade. I use a Dremel with different polishing wheels instead of a bench grinder with a buffing wheel.
3) Use mineral spirits to clean away the polish debris; when buffing around the embossed lettering you will remove the paint, this will be evident after cleaning with mineral spirits.
4) I've used several different paints, Markal Pro-Line paint pens are Ok, but they dry out fast. Model paint is a good option, but ensure you use enamel.
5) I paint the entire club face with one color at a time; fill in the area with the paint, allow it to pseudo-dry, enough for it to clean up but remain in the desired painted area. Using a cotton lint-free rag, with denatured alcohol or dispersed acetone, clean up the area where you may have overflow, which will most likely occur.
6) Eastwood Diamond Clear Gloss is a good sealant for finished metals. I've also used VHT Wheel Paint Clear Coat (Autozone), this has a residue that dulls the finish and will eventually rub off faster than the Eastwood product, but it will coat the club for a duration. Or you can leave the finished product as is.

The attached photo is a Scotty that did not get sanded - the owner didn't want to jeopardize the weight or stability. The color scheme matches the grip.

Larry @ Fixxin' Stixx
Sacramento, Ca
[/quote]

Hmm. Doesn't look like the same putter, but nice work!

Before is a NP2 after is NP

913D3 8.5* - Elements Chrome 7F5T
BioCell+ 14.5* - VTS Silver TourSPX 8SX
913Hd 18* - KBS Tour X
J40CB 3-P - DG Tour Issue X100
SM5 52F and 58K -DG Tour Issue S400
SC Monterey 1.5 - Blacked Out Pistolero
[url="http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/1150133-jjensen-a-fresh-start-witb/"]WITB Link[/url]

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[quote name='JJensen' timestamp='1404687205' post='9648139']
[quote name='Fixxin' Stixx' timestamp='1404670310' post='9646725']
I've restored several Scotty Camerons.
1) If you sandout the dings and scratches you compromise the weight and stability - but it will look much better if you do.
2) Buffing requires several polishes - I use Nuvite metal polish, expensive but well worth it. Start with course grade and finish with S grade. I use a Dremel with different polishing wheels instead of a bench grinder with a buffing wheel.
3) Use mineral spirits to clean away the polish debris; when buffing around the embossed lettering you will remove the paint, this will be evident after cleaning with mineral spirits.
4) I've used several different paints, Markal Pro-Line paint pens are Ok, but they dry out fast. Model paint is a good option, but ensure you use enamel.
5) I paint the entire club face with one color at a time; fill in the area with the paint, allow it to pseudo-dry, enough for it to clean up but remain in the desired painted area. Using a cotton lint-free rag, with denatured alcohol or dispersed acetone, clean up the area where you may have overflow, which will most likely occur.
6) Eastwood Diamond Clear Gloss is a good sealant for finished metals. I've also used VHT Wheel Paint Clear Coat (Autozone), this has a residue that dulls the finish and will eventually rub off faster than the Eastwood product, but it will coat the club for a duration. Or you can leave the finished product as is.

The attached photo is a Scotty that did not get sanded - the owner didn't want to jeopardize the weight or stability. The color scheme matches the grip.

Larry @ Fixxin' Stixx
Sacramento, Ca
[/quote]

Hmm. Doesn't look like the same putter, but nice work!

Before is a NP2 after is NP
[/quote]

Yes, after looking at it, you're right. I was given these pics by the owner - he bought it off of ebay and sent me what he had.

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I have a set of RAZR Black irons. Does anyone know if the acetone or Tal-Strip will take off the black finish? I'd like to fill the iron numbers but don't want a mess on my hands around the number.

Driver: Srixon 785 (Helium f4 49g) 3 & 5 Woods: TaylorMade M6 (FW 6s) Hybrid: Cleveland Launcher Halo  4 (22º) Miyazaki C Kua 60  Irons: Srixon 585 5-AW (Steelfifber 95s). Wedges: TaylorMade R-Series Tour Grind EF Spin Groove 52º-9, 56º-10 (KBS Wedge Shaft) Golf Pride MCC+4 grips. Putter: Odyssey Stroke Lab Double Wide Flow, Double Bend Shaft, Stroke Lab Oversize Grip

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[quote name='Pigems' timestamp='1405286485' post='9692851']
I'm not sure if it's the same finish but it didn't hurt the black on my metal x putter head.
[/quote]

I finally tested it on a little spot of a club that's not in my bag. No problem. Did not affect the finish.

Driver: Srixon 785 (Helium f4 49g) 3 & 5 Woods: TaylorMade M6 (FW 6s) Hybrid: Cleveland Launcher Halo  4 (22º) Miyazaki C Kua 60  Irons: Srixon 585 5-AW (Steelfifber 95s). Wedges: TaylorMade R-Series Tour Grind EF Spin Groove 52º-9, 56º-10 (KBS Wedge Shaft) Golf Pride MCC+4 grips. Putter: Odyssey Stroke Lab Double Wide Flow, Double Bend Shaft, Stroke Lab Oversize Grip

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[quote name='BKJ7' timestamp='1403638680' post='9568279']
Thanks to Hucklebogey Finn for the tutorial and everyone providing pics and feedback here, helped me a lot. This is my first go at paint filling a club and its not too bad but could be better. I used Testors enamel paint and it takes forever to dry, might try nail polish next time....

[attachment=2291273:20140624_150909.jpg][attachment=2291275:20140624_150933.jpg][attachment=2291277:20140624_151349.jpg]
[/quote]


I like it!

Cleveland Launcher DTS 9*
Exotics CB 13*
Ping i3 17*

Callaway Steelhead 3 20*

Nickent 3DX 23*26*29*
MacGregor VIP V-Foil 1025 C - 7-PW
Ping Eye2 51*57.5*
Seemore WGP
[url="http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/1013287-my-v-foils/"]WITB Link[/url]

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Been fiddling with clubs for awhile. Get better n better. Patience is everything. Letting fully dry before u clean excess, Using the right products and prep. The first post has been the best advice. Here is my most recent. Scotty Newport select 1.5 with clear orange cherry bombs and weights, bright orange select and I'd on the face and the rest black.

All my adams mb2 tour black are matching

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[quote name='Trestles126' timestamp='1405475616' post='9709095']
Been fiddling with clubs for awhile. Get better n better. Patience is everything. Letting fully dry before u clean excess, Using the right products and prep. The first post has been the best advice. Here is my most recent. Scotty Newport select 1.5 with clear orange cherry bombs and weights, bright orange select and I'd on the face and the rest black.

All my adams mb2 tour black are matching
[/quote]
What type paint are you using for the "clear orange"?

[list]
[*][size=4][b][color=#0000ff]Ping G410 LST, Mitsubishi Tensei Orange Pro [/color][/b][/size]
[*][size=4][color=#008000][b]Ping G410 3 wood, Mitsubishi Diamana BF[/b][/color][/size]
[*][size=4][color=#008000][b]Ping G410 3 hybrid, Mitsubishi Tensei Blue Pro[/b][/color][/size]
[*][size=4][color=#008000][b]Ping G410 4 hybrid, Evenflow Black[/b][/color][/size]
[*][size=4][b]Titleist T200 5-9 KBS Tour Flt [/b][/size]
[*][size=4][b][color=#daa520]Callaway MD5 45,49,54,58/[/color]
[*][color=#b22222][b][size=4]TP Mills Trad II Hand Forged [/size][/b][/color]
[/list]

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  • 2 months later...

I'm going to paint fill the faces on my Betti BB1. Should I go one color for all the faces or should I mix it up and and go a different color for each face or 2 colors or 4 colors? I'm open to ideas and color schemes so let's hear them.

 

jphheh.jpg

 

Hey, Whatever came of this putter? did you get her painted?

OH YEAH!!

Titleist 915 D3 9.5* Fujikura Speeder evolution II 661 TS X-stiff
Callaway BB15 14* (set to 16* weight forward) Fujikura Speeder Evolution 665 X-stiff
Callaway Xr 19* Hybrid Proforce V2
Titleist 712U 3+4 (3 with Nunchuk xi, 4 with Recoil Prototype 125)
Cobra King forged CB/MB 5-pw (KBS C-taper S+)
Cobra Tour Trusty 52* KBS hi Rev X
Cleveland RTx 3 56* Project x Lz 6.0
Callaway Mack Daddy 3 KBS 610 2.0

Scotty Cameron Studio select Squareback no1. SNSR contour grip
35.5*

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Just finished this up for a buddy. I'm satisfied with how it came out!

[attachment=2443421:image.jpg][attachment=2443423:image.jpg][attachment=2443425:image.jpg]

Titleist TSi3 8* // TENSEI 1K Black 65s

Callaway Paradym Triple Diamond 15* // Kai'li 80x
Taylormade SLDR 17* Rescue // Speeder 9.3s
Taylormade SLDR 19* Rescue // Matrix Black Tie 95s
Srixon ZX5 4-PW // Nippon Modus 120s
50* & 56* Taylormade MG3 // Tour Issue S-200
Scotty Cameron Special Select Newport 2

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  • 2 months later...

I'll probably get roasted for bringing up an old thread... but hey - I did use the SEARCH feature!!!

Meanwhile, I just wanted to thank everyone for the nail polish suggestions and for having me feel silly browsing nail polish at my local CVS. I knew I needed "enamel" - but some polish said enamel and others just said polish.. So of course, I had to ask various women if the bottle that said - Polish - was also enamel.

My gamer's aren't expensive, name brand clubs.. so I'm just going to paint fill away. Not only am I going to do the numbers, but also the bottom two grooves... I was browsing last week and I liked the way the an iron looked at address with the lower grooves colored.

The painted grooves will probably get messed up the second I clean the grooves with the steel brush - but $1.99 for nail polish - & that I can remove it with the nail polish remover.. there's really not much of a risk.

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I use these applicators to fill in the small lettering. You can reuse them with the same color if you use acrylic paint but I haven't had much luck using them with enamel paints

http://www.cisinks.c...ciss-p-470.html

I like your idea, these work also.,!BV2GSrw!mk~$(KGrHgoOKjUEjlLmUhVfBKUlL!uW6g~~_35.JPG

Srixon ZX5  TT dynamic gold 95  PING G425 FST 43.25"  Tour Edge 721 Tensei blue 65  Mizuno T22 56* 60*  Bobby Grace AMG 6313 35"

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Ebay seller w/ store [url="http://www.ebay.com/usr/putterpaint?_trksid=p2047675.l2559"]putterpaint[/url] ([url="http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback&userid=putterpaint&iid=261396730924&ssPageName=VIP:feedback&ftab=FeedbackAsSeller&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2560"]8533[/url] ). go to golf/ club making products type in paint fill bottles.

Srixon ZX5  TT dynamic gold 95  PING G425 FST 43.25"  Tour Edge 721 Tensei blue 65  Mizuno T22 56* 60*  Bobby Grace AMG 6313 35"

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I'm going to paint fill the faces on my Betti BB1. Should I go one color for all the faces or should I mix it up and and go a different color for each face or 2 colors or 4 colors? I'm open to ideas and color schemes so let's hear them.

 

jphheh.jpg

 

Hey, Whatever came of this putter? did you get her painted?

OH YEAH!!

 

I tried many times but couldn't get it to look just right...so it remained naked. Just sold it to a friend of mine as well. Figured I didn't need a putter like that when I actually get out and golf 4-5 rounds a year

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