Home Simulators Lets Talk About Them!

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  • fairways4lifefairways4life Members Posts: 1,553 ✭✭
    clevited wrote:


    clevited wrote:



    I can't seem to find it online, but the newest issue of Golf Digest did an article about simulator golf in South Korea. They have a televised pro league and simulator rounds actually outnumbered real rounds over there in 2018. Very interesting read for anyone who has a simulator.



    Another question if I may.....



    Do most of you have the spot you are hitting from centered to your screen? Or is it slightly offset to one side (the right side for righties or the left side for lefties).



    I would like to have my spot centered, but last night I did some measuring and laid down some tape where my frame will be so I could get a better visual of it. And it seems that if I have my spot centered then the left side might get a little tight. By moving to the right side a little bit it frees up that left side a little more. But I didn't know how this might affect game play if I'm always hitting into the right side of the screen. I suppose it doesn't really matter because you're using the computer to set your aiming point so it doesn't really matter where on the screen the ball is hitting. But I really have no idea.



    Also, does it mess with your head and make you hit a lot of hooks because you're lined up right of the target?



    Thanks.




    Mine is offset because with longer clubs I would hit the wall with my club during my backswing if I were centered. I think most popular sim softwares come with an offset option. I use JNPG and it does. I center the ball on screen with my tee location.




    Okay cool, thanks. That's kind of what I was wondering about.



    I'm looking at about 7.5 feet from tee to screen. Does this sound about right and are there factors I should be considering in regards to distance from screen?




    I am about that to my screen/net so I think that sounds good. I know next to nothing about projectors though, what is needed to project onto a screen of your size and distance without getting a shadow. So pays to do research on that before buying. Also, research the crap out of any sim software you are looking into, whatever you do, do not listen to the BS that resellers whisper in your ear.




    Yeah I went down a projector research rabbit hole last night lol. I have a nice place to put the projector up high (so no shadow) and the measurements of distance and screen size should work well for the right projector.



    By "resellers," you mean people selling used software?
  • clevitedclevited Don't think you are, know you are. Members Posts: 1,008 ✭✭
    edited Jan 8, 2019 4:21pm #123

    clevited wrote:


    clevited wrote:



    I can't seem to find it online, but the newest issue of Golf Digest did an article about simulator golf in South Korea. They have a televised pro league and simulator rounds actually outnumbered real rounds over there in 2018. Very interesting read for anyone who has a simulator.



    Another question if I may.....



    Do most of you have the spot you are hitting from centered to your screen? Or is it slightly offset to one side (the right side for righties or the left side for lefties).



    I would like to have my spot centered, but last night I did some measuring and laid down some tape where my frame will be so I could get a better visual of it. And it seems that if I have my spot centered then the left side might get a little tight. By moving to the right side a little bit it frees up that left side a little more. But I didn't know how this might affect game play if I'm always hitting into the right side of the screen. I suppose it doesn't really matter because you're using the computer to set your aiming point so it doesn't really matter where on the screen the ball is hitting. But I really have no idea.



    Also, does it mess with your head and make you hit a lot of hooks because you're lined up right of the target?



    Thanks.




    Mine is offset because with longer clubs I would hit the wall with my club during my backswing if I were centered. I think most popular sim softwares come with an offset option. I use JNPG and it does. I center the ball on screen with my tee location.




    Okay cool, thanks. That's kind of what I was wondering about.



    I'm looking at about 7.5 feet from tee to screen. Does this sound about right and are there factors I should be considering in regards to distance from screen?




    I am about that to my screen/net so I think that sounds good. I know next to nothing about projectors though, what is needed to project onto a screen of your size and distance without getting a shadow. So pays to do research on that before buying. Also, research the crap out of any sim software you are looking into, whatever you do, do not listen to the BS that resellers whisper in your ear.




    Yeah I went down a projector research rabbit hole last night lol. I have a nice place to put the projector up high (so no shadow) and the measurements of distance and screen size should work well for the right projector.



    By "resellers," you mean people selling used software?




    No, I guess maybe that is the wrong wording. The storefront people that sell all things simulator is what I was referring to. Some will try and push "the best simulator ever" on your for 10k etc. Some of these guys try to offload bad product and aren't upfront about the problems or inaccuracies it has. That is partially why I created this thread, to avoid these guys and get people that have been there, done that, to provide good information. You can still get a lot of good information on GSF, but watch out for the sugar coating and vaguery that some of the sellers put out there. I will tell you one thing though, Seth from Skytrak is the straightest shooter I have met in the world of golf PR. He is open and honest about his product so you can trust what he will tell you. He also knows a ton technically so he is a great resource.



    Edit: Did you decide on a launch monitor yet? GC2 or Skytrak are imo, the absolute only options under 5k. I would argue they are the best overall for home simulators. ST being the only one truly marketed for low cost and good performance and accessibility to many sim software options. If I had the money, I would have gone GC2 method. Just remember, you can never be too careful, even when buying a GC2. Not all GC2s are created equal, there are scammers out there. If you want to get access to a lot of great people that can answer just about every question you could imagine without any sugar coat, I can get you there. Just let me know. That goes for anyone. That facebook page posted earlier is great too I hear.
  • DeeBee30DeeBee30 Members Posts: 320 ✭✭
    Does anyone know if you can export the graphical image showing ball flight and shot dispersion from the Foresight FSX software running behind a GC2? I know you can export the tables, but I haven't figured out the ball flight screen.



    Apologies if this has been answered and I didn't find the answer.
  • fairways4lifefairways4life Members Posts: 1,553 ✭✭
    ^^^^



    I'll definitely be going the Skytrak route as far as the launch monitor. Not sure on the sim software yet but fortunately (or shall I say "unfortunately") I'm several months away from that purchase so time is on my side as far as making a decision there.



    The next few months will be dedicated to getting my setup "Skytrak ready" so once I pull the trigger on one the rest of the pieces will be in place (frame, net, screen, projector, computer).
  • grant2145grant2145 Members Posts: 107 ✭✭
    DeeBee30 wrote:


    Does anyone know if you can export the graphical image showing ball flight and shot dispersion from the Foresight FSX software running behind a GC2? I know you can export the tables, but I haven't figured out the ball flight screen.



    Apologies if this has been answered and I didn't find the answer.




    Not that I know of but you can access the flight tracers in your FSX Live account. You just have to make sure you log into your account before you start a practice session.
  • dxdgenertdxdgenert Dirtiest player in the game MinnesotaMembers Posts: 1,538 ✭✭
    I can attest to the SkyTrak Users facebook page being a good resource. I will also echo that there are some folks with a lot of skin in the game, trying to peddle their software. Feel free to message me, as well, and I can help out however possible.
    PING G400 MAX w/ Alta CB
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    Cobra KING F7 hybrid w/ Fujikura Pro 75H
    Wilson Staff FG Tour V4 Utility 4 Iron
    Wilson Staff FG Tour V4 5-GW
    Wilson Staff FG Tour PMP Blue Tour Grind 56* and 60*
    One of several milled putters
  • PetethreeputPetethreeput Members Posts: 1,430 ✭✭
    Man, you folks are intense when it comes to sims. I know nothing about mine. I am learning a lot thank you.
  • howellhandmadehowellhandmade Members Posts: 736 ✭✭
    I am becoming intrigued. I have a mat and rug set up in my basement where I can hit balls. I have enough length for a sim, I think, and the skytrak is tempting, but I'm 6'4" and the ceiling is not high. I can manage a free full swing with a wedge, can hit a 5 iron if my swing is on plane, but will hit the joists if I get steep and I start getting tentative with a 7 iron. But I can see lots of good in dialing in my wedges. And maybe someday having a high ceiling. How realistic is the Skytrak for chips, pitches, wedges?
  • dxdgenertdxdgenert Dirtiest player in the game MinnesotaMembers Posts: 1,538 ✭✭
    edited Jan 8, 2019 9:03pm #130


    I am becoming intrigued. I have a mat and rug set up in my basement where I can hit balls. I have enough length for a sim, I think, and the skytrak is tempting, but I'm 6'4" and the ceiling is not high. I can manage a free full swing with a wedge, can hit a 5 iron if my swing is on plane, but will hit the joists if I get steep and I start getting tentative with a 7 iron. But I can see lots of good in dialing in my wedges. And maybe someday having a high ceiling. How realistic is the Skytrak for chips, pitches, wedges?


    Decent and they have a really cool wedge matrix tool for dialing in distances. However, I wouldn’t spend that much for wedges through 7 iron. Do you have a garage or shed? I run mine out of a garage.
    PING G400 MAX w/ Alta CB
    Cobra KING F7 fairway w/ Fujikura Pro 65
    Cobra KING F7 hybrid w/ Fujikura Pro 75H
    Wilson Staff FG Tour V4 Utility 4 Iron
    Wilson Staff FG Tour V4 5-GW
    Wilson Staff FG Tour PMP Blue Tour Grind 56* and 60*
    One of several milled putters
  • PetethreeputPetethreeput Members Posts: 1,430 ✭✭
    dxdgenert wrote:



    I am becoming intrigued. I have a mat and rug set up in my basement where I can hit balls. I have enough length for a sim, I think, and the skytrak is tempting, but I'm 6'4" and the ceiling is not high. I can manage a free full swing with a wedge, can hit a 5 iron if my swing is on plane, but will hit the joists if I get steep and I start getting tentative with a 7 iron. But I can see lots of good in dialing in my wedges. And maybe someday having a high ceiling. How realistic is the Skytrak for chips, pitches, wedges?


    Decent and they have a really cool wedge matrix tool for dialing in distances. However, I wouldn’t spend that much for wedges through 7 iron. Do you have a garage or shed? I run mine out of a garage.




    That’s what I did and removed some trusses in the garage to allow full swings.
  • GT7212GT7212 Members Posts: 345 ✭✭
    For those who are seeking a mat that is realistic on shot feedback and forgiving on the elbows and joints, I HIGHLY recommend building your own DIY divot action mat using materials easily accessible on amazon and your local Home Depot. Total cost will be a little over $100 and about 1.5 hours of your time. Basically the impact surface of the mat is constructed using a sheet of lexan polycarbonate (virtually indestructible plastic) that is supported on both ends by a piece of foam. What this does is allows the lexan to flex at the point of impact providing the subtle relief of taking a divot. I’ve had mine built for over 12 months and hit hundreds of balls a week with no wrist or joint pain whatsoever. Flushed shots feel effortless while heavy shots provide immediate feedback. For anyone interested, PM me your email and I will send complete materials list and build instructions.
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  • dxdgenertdxdgenert Dirtiest player in the game MinnesotaMembers Posts: 1,538 ✭✭
    GT7212 wrote:


    For those who are seeking a mat that is realistic on shot feedback and forgiving on the elbows and joints, I HIGHLY recommend building your own DIY divot action mat using materials easily accessible on amazon and your local Home Depot. Total cost will be a little over $100 and about 1.5 hours of your time. Basically the impact surface of the mat is constructed using a sheet of lexan polycarbonate (virtually indestructible plastic) that is supported on both ends by a piece of foam. What this does is allows the lexan to flex at the point of impact providing the subtle relief of taking a divot. I've had mine built for over 12 months and hit hundreds of balls a week with no wrist or joint pain whatsoever. Flushed shots feel effortless while heavy shots provide immediate feedback. For anyone interested, PM me your email and I will send complete materials list and build instructions.


    I can attest to this. I was hoping the Fiberbuilt would be better but I prefer the DIY Divot Action.
    PING G400 MAX w/ Alta CB
    Cobra KING F7 fairway w/ Fujikura Pro 65
    Cobra KING F7 hybrid w/ Fujikura Pro 75H
    Wilson Staff FG Tour V4 Utility 4 Iron
    Wilson Staff FG Tour V4 5-GW
    Wilson Staff FG Tour PMP Blue Tour Grind 56* and 60*
    One of several milled putters
  • wundejwundej ClubWRX Posts: 3,751 ClubWRX
    wundej wrote:


    So I found a great deal on PVC pipe ($2 for 20-foot sections). It's only 1 inch in diameter though. Will this be sturdy enough to use as a frame for a hitting cage? Haven't bought any yet, but the guy said he has plenty left.




    1” PVC might sag a bit depending on how wide your frame is and the weight of the netting. I would definitely not use PVC if your cage will have a screen. Also, PVC will crack if an errant shot hits it- ask me how I know image/smile.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />



    Metal conduit is relatively cheap and a better choice long term. The fittings are the pricey part. You can find fittings at places that sell tent supplies.




    Thank for the advice. I also wondered about potential sagging. The frame will be 8 feet wide, 10 feet deep and 10 feet high. And it will have a screen in addition to netting.



    I'll see what else I can find.




    As mentioned, it will shatter if hit. I know this from experience too (PW right into the main crossbar). I have some 3 way fittings if you decide to go with the PVC route for now. Let me know.



    If you setup the net and screen so they are offset from the piping you can probably get away without breaking it, but you will want to add vertical posts mid-span to support the weight of net and screen to stop sagging. It’s just a few extra pipes, but will help with the longevity of the cage and also allow a little extra stiffness for tightening the screen.




    Any big difference in terms of sagging or overall durability between 1-inch PVC pipe and say 3-inch PVC pipe? I know there is different thickness ("schedule") as well. I'm finding that PVC pipe is just so much cheaper than metal piping. Plus I can cut PVC pipe but I don't have anything to cut metal pipe so I would need to find the exact lengths that I need.



    Also, what has everyone found to be the ideal distance between hitting mat and screen?


    Can you even find 3 way fittings for 3” pipes?



    What size screen are you looking for and are you planning on hanging a net on it too?
  • fairways4lifefairways4life Members Posts: 1,553 ✭✭
    edited Jan 10, 2019 9:25am #135
    ^^^



    I ended up just buying the 1-inch PVC pipe because it was so cheap (I got 72 feet of pipe + a bunch of two-way and three-way fittings for $10). Plus the guy that was selling lived right around the corner from where I work so I was able to easily pick it up. None of the pipes had never been used.



    I put together a frame the other night but I'm going to have to chop a little bit off of it to make it work in my space (my original measurement failed to account for the garage door opener that hangs from the ceiling). It seems plenty sturdy, and I'll be adding two additional support pieces as well. Obviously we'll see what happens when a net and screen are added. Worst case scenario = it isn't strong enough and I spent 10 bucks on a bunch of pipe that I will use for some other project anyway. So no big investment here other than my time.



    The three way corner fittings typically have two sides of the same size and then a third side of a smaller size. There's an adapter that goes into the smaller size hole that then fits into the pipe.



    After making the necessary cuts, the frame for the screen will be 7.5 feet wide and 8.5 feet tall. My hitting spot will be almost 7 feet from the screen. The ceiling is 12 feet high in the spot I'll be hitting from.
  • highandrighthighandright GAMembers Posts: 36 ✭✭
    clevited wrote:


    clevited wrote:



    I can't seem to find it online, but the newest issue of Golf Digest did an article about simulator golf in South Korea. They have a televised pro league and simulator rounds actually outnumbered real rounds over there in 2018. Very interesting read for anyone who has a simulator.



    Another question if I may.....



    Do most of you have the spot you are hitting from centered to your screen? Or is it slightly offset to one side (the right side for righties or the left side for lefties).



    I would like to have my spot centered, but last night I did some measuring and laid down some tape where my frame will be so I could get a better visual of it. And it seems that if I have my spot centered then the left side might get a little tight. By moving to the right side a little bit it frees up that left side a little more. But I didn't know how this might affect game play if I'm always hitting into the right side of the screen. I suppose it doesn't really matter because you're using the computer to set your aiming point so it doesn't really matter where on the screen the ball is hitting. But I really have no idea.



    Also, does it mess with your head and make you hit a lot of hooks because you're lined up right of the target?



    Thanks.




    Mine is offset because with longer clubs I would hit the wall with my club during my backswing if I were centered. I think most popular sim softwares come with an offset option. I use JNPG and it does. I center the ball on screen with my tee location.




    Okay cool, thanks. That's kind of what I was wondering about.



    I'm looking at about 7.5 feet from tee to screen. Does this sound about right and are there factors I should be considering in regards to distance from screen?




    I am about that to my screen/net so I think that sounds good. I know next to nothing about projectors though, what is needed to project onto a screen of your size and distance without getting a shadow. So pays to do research on that before buying. Also, research the crap out of any sim software you are looking into, whatever you do, do not listen to the BS that resellers whisper in your ear.




    You can use a projector throw distance calculator, like https://www.projectorcentral.com/projection-calculator-pro.cfm



    To avoid shadows, you generally either want the projector mounted directly overhead of the hitting mat, or on the ground in front of the hitting area (inside an enclosure like http://www.allsportsystems.com/store_images/simstore-projectors.php#listing_2). This typically means finding a "short throw" projector.
  • fairways4lifefairways4life Members Posts: 1,553 ✭✭

    clevited wrote:


    clevited wrote:



    I can't seem to find it online, but the newest issue of Golf Digest did an article about simulator golf in South Korea. They have a televised pro league and simulator rounds actually outnumbered real rounds over there in 2018. Very interesting read for anyone who has a simulator.



    Another question if I may.....



    Do most of you have the spot you are hitting from centered to your screen? Or is it slightly offset to one side (the right side for righties or the left side for lefties).



    I would like to have my spot centered, but last night I did some measuring and laid down some tape where my frame will be so I could get a better visual of it. And it seems that if I have my spot centered then the left side might get a little tight. By moving to the right side a little bit it frees up that left side a little more. But I didn't know how this might affect game play if I'm always hitting into the right side of the screen. I suppose it doesn't really matter because you're using the computer to set your aiming point so it doesn't really matter where on the screen the ball is hitting. But I really have no idea.



    Also, does it mess with your head and make you hit a lot of hooks because you're lined up right of the target?



    Thanks.




    Mine is offset because with longer clubs I would hit the wall with my club during my backswing if I were centered. I think most popular sim softwares come with an offset option. I use JNPG and it does. I center the ball on screen with my tee location.




    Okay cool, thanks. That's kind of what I was wondering about.



    I'm looking at about 7.5 feet from tee to screen. Does this sound about right and are there factors I should be considering in regards to distance from screen?




    I am about that to my screen/net so I think that sounds good. I know next to nothing about projectors though, what is needed to project onto a screen of your size and distance without getting a shadow. So pays to do research on that before buying. Also, research the crap out of any sim software you are looking into, whatever you do, do not listen to the BS that resellers whisper in your ear.




    You can use a projector throw distance calculator, like https://www.projecto...culator-pro.cfm



    To avoid shadows, you generally either want the projector mounted directly overhead of the hitting mat, or on the ground in front of the hitting area (inside an enclosure like http://www.allsports...s.php#listing_2). This typically means finding a "short throw" projector.




    I plan to put my projector on a shelf behind me (just far enough out of backswing range) but up about 8 feet off the ground. I don't anticipate having any shadow issues with it being well higher than my head like that (I'm about 6'1'').



    So in other words, the projector would be about 12 feet from the screen and 8 feet up in the air. I would be hitting about 7 feet from the screen and about 5 feet in front of the projector. Should be good as far as shadows(?)



    Also, I decided to wrap the cage in black sheeting or tarp to create a blackout effect for better picture quality. I read somewhere that this is a good way of blocking out external lighting so your picture shows up brighter. It certainly seems logical. On the right track with this?
  • highandrighthighandright GAMembers Posts: 36 ✭✭






    I plan to put my projector on a shelf behind me (just far enough out of backswing range) but up about 8 feet off the ground. I don't anticipate having any shadow issues with it being well higher than my head like that (I'm about 6'1'').



    So in other words, the projector would be about 12 feet from the screen and 8 feet up in the air. I would be hitting about 7 feet from the screen and about 5 feet in front of the projector. Should be good as far as shadows(?)



    Also, I decided to wrap the cage in black sheeting or tarp to create a blackout effect for better picture quality. I read somewhere that this is a good way of blocking out external lighting so your picture shows up brighter. It certainly seems logical. On the right track with this?




    According to my (extremely rusty) trigonometry, you will have shadow issues. If I'm correct, your projector image would intersect your body at roughly 4.5ft of height above the ground.



    8' high projector that is 12' from screen, the image would hit the bottom of the screen at about 34* angle. If you stand at 7' from the screen, the height at which the image would intersect your point would be just over 4.5'. Your best bet is to get a projector that can be mounted as close to right above the ball as possible.
  • fairways4lifefairways4life Members Posts: 1,553 ✭✭



    I plan to put my projector on a shelf behind me (just far enough out of backswing range) but up about 8 feet off the ground. I don't anticipate having any shadow issues with it being well higher than my head like that (I'm about 6'1'').



    So in other words, the projector would be about 12 feet from the screen and 8 feet up in the air. I would be hitting about 7 feet from the screen and about 5 feet in front of the projector. Should be good as far as shadows(?)



    Also, I decided to wrap the cage in black sheeting or tarp to create a blackout effect for better picture quality. I read somewhere that this is a good way of blocking out external lighting so your picture shows up brighter. It certainly seems logical. On the right track with this?




    According to my (extremely rusty) trigonometry, you will have shadow issues. If I'm correct, your projector image would intersect your body at roughly 4.5ft of height above the ground.



    8' high projector that is 12' from screen, the image would hit the bottom of the screen at about 34* angle. If you stand at 7' from the screen, the height at which the image would intersect your point would be just over 4.5'. Your best bet is to get a projector that can be mounted as close to right above the ball as possible.




    Interesting ..... What if I mounted the projector even higher than 8 feet? At what point is too high? (I assume there is a limit as to how far down it can shoot). I can go as high as about 11 feet in that part of the garage. (Another trigonometry problem for ya image/wink.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=';)' /> )



    I may have to look into the overhead option if that still won't work. The wall mount option is definitely cheaper and easier because there's already a shelf there.



    Appreciate all the help I've been getting here.
  • highandrighthighandright GAMembers Posts: 36 ✭✭
    edited Jan 10, 2019 2:20pm #140




    I plan to put my projector on a shelf behind me (just far enough out of backswing range) but up about 8 feet off the ground. I don't anticipate having any shadow issues with it being well higher than my head like that (I'm about 6'1'').



    So in other words, the projector would be about 12 feet from the screen and 8 feet up in the air. I would be hitting about 7 feet from the screen and about 5 feet in front of the projector. Should be good as far as shadows(?)



    Also, I decided to wrap the cage in black sheeting or tarp to create a blackout effect for better picture quality. I read somewhere that this is a good way of blocking out external lighting so your picture shows up brighter. It certainly seems logical. On the right track with this?




    According to my (extremely rusty) trigonometry, you will have shadow issues. If I'm correct, your projector image would intersect your body at roughly 4.5ft of height above the ground.



    8' high projector that is 12' from screen, the image would hit the bottom of the screen at about 34* angle. If you stand at 7' from the screen, the height at which the image would intersect your point would be just over 4.5'. Your best bet is to get a projector that can be mounted as close to right above the ball as possible.




    Interesting ..... What if I mounted the projector even higher than 8 feet? At what point is too high? (I assume there is a limit as to how far down it can shoot). I can go as high as about 11 feet in that part of the garage. (Another trigonometry problem for ya image/wink.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=';)' /> )



    I may have to look into the overhead option if that still won't work. The wall mount option is definitely cheaper and easier because there's already a shelf there.



    Appreciate all the help I've been getting here.




    Here's a crappy image showing how I came to that conclusion.



    If you do the calculations in reverse, the minimum height you'd need to place the projector if it is 12' from the screen to avoid shadows (hitting a 6' tall head) is about 10'4". So if you can get it as high as possible, it should be ok.



    You can tell it's been a slow day at work...

  • fairways4lifefairways4life Members Posts: 1,553 ✭✭





    I plan to put my projector on a shelf behind me (just far enough out of backswing range) but up about 8 feet off the ground. I don't anticipate having any shadow issues with it being well higher than my head like that (I'm about 6'1'').



    So in other words, the projector would be about 12 feet from the screen and 8 feet up in the air. I would be hitting about 7 feet from the screen and about 5 feet in front of the projector. Should be good as far as shadows(?)



    Also, I decided to wrap the cage in black sheeting or tarp to create a blackout effect for better picture quality. I read somewhere that this is a good way of blocking out external lighting so your picture shows up brighter. It certainly seems logical. On the right track with this?




    According to my (extremely rusty) trigonometry, you will have shadow issues. If I'm correct, your projector image would intersect your body at roughly 4.5ft of height above the ground.



    8' high projector that is 12' from screen, the image would hit the bottom of the screen at about 34* angle. If you stand at 7' from the screen, the height at which the image would intersect your point would be just over 4.5'. Your best bet is to get a projector that can be mounted as close to right above the ball as possible.




    Interesting ..... What if I mounted the projector even higher than 8 feet? At what point is too high? (I assume there is a limit as to how far down it can shoot). I can go as high as about 11 feet in that part of the garage. (Another trigonometry problem for ya image/wink.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=';)' /> )



    I may have to look into the overhead option if that still won't work. The wall mount option is definitely cheaper and easier because there's already a shelf there.



    Appreciate all the help I've been getting here.




    Here's a crappy image showing how I came to that conclusion.



    If you do the calculations in reverse, the minimum height you'd need to place the projector if it is 12' from the screen to avoid shadows (hitting a 6' tall head) is about 10'4". So if you can get it as high as possible, it should be ok.



    You can tell it's been a slow day at work...





    Lol this is perfect!



    The ceiling is 12 feet high right there so I should be able to get it up about 11 feet then (allowing room for the projector itself of course).



    I plan to get the frame finalized and installed exactly where I want it this weekend. (It's currently assembled but propped in the corner for now; need to make a couple more adjustments to it before setting it in place). Once I get it in place I'll make one final measurement and check back in.



    Tell your boss I said thanks image/wink.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=';)' />
  • highandrighthighandright GAMembers Posts: 36 ✭✭




    Lol this is perfect!



    The ceiling is 12 feet high right there so I should be able to get it up about 11 feet then (allowing room for the projector itself of course).



    I plan to get the frame finalized and installed exactly where I want it this weekend. (It's currently assembled but propped in the corner for now; need to make a couple more adjustments to it before setting it in place). Once I get it in place I'll make one final measurement and check back in.



    Tell your boss I said thanks image/wink.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=';)' />




    Just be sure your projector's optimal range for your screen size will work from 12'. As they say- measure twice, mount projector once.
  • Stuart_GStuart_G New HampshireMembers Posts: 23,090 ✭✭


    Interesting ..... What if I mounted the projector even higher than 8 feet? At what point is too high?




    Depends on the capabilities of the projector. The potential problem is that the higher you go the more distorted (no longer square) the image will be unless the projector has some type of "keystone correction" capability. How high you can go will depend on how much of that correction your particular projector can handle.
  • mhawk709mhawk709 Members Posts: 22 ✭✭
    Hello folks,



    I've looked through the thread but haven't seen any mention of this scenario:



    Detached 3 car garage in Minnesota that is not insulated.



    I want to put a simulator in the smaller third stall but don't want to have to insulate the whole garage.



    Anyone use any thermal/insulated curtains to partition off the 3rd stall and just heat that specific area?



    Any tips or product recommendations are much appreciated!



    -Hawk
  • dxdgenertdxdgenert Dirtiest player in the game MinnesotaMembers Posts: 1,538 ✭✭
    mhawk709 wrote:


    Hello folks,



    I've looked through the thread but haven't seen any mention of this scenario:



    Detached 3 car garage in Minnesota that is not insulated.



    I want to put a simulator in the smaller third stall but don't want to have to insulate the whole garage.



    Anyone use any thermal/insulated curtains to partition off the 3rd stall and just heat that specific area?



    Any tips or product recommendations are much appreciated!



    -Hawk
    eerily similar setup to mine. I’m also in MN, so I understand perfectly.

    Here is the deal, the garage tracks in the 3rd stall make a for an extremely narrow window to swing. That was my original plan but after testing, driver would have been too close. I opted to use the “main garage” stall. I looked into the curtains and the price versus performance wasn’t there. You would be much, much better off just insulating the garage. Less money and more effective. If you have any questions, let me know!
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  • mhawk709mhawk709 Members Posts: 22 ✭✭
    dxdgenert wrote:

    mhawk709 wrote:


    Hello folks,



    I've looked through the thread but haven't seen any mention of this scenario:



    Detached 3 car garage in Minnesota that is not insulated.



    I want to put a simulator in the smaller third stall but don't want to have to insulate the whole garage.



    Anyone use any thermal/insulated curtains to partition off the 3rd stall and just heat that specific area?



    Any tips or product recommendations are much appreciated!



    -Hawk
    eerily similar setup to mine. I'm also in MN, so I understand perfectly.

    Here is the deal, the garage tracks in the 3rd stall make a for an extremely narrow window to swing. That was my original plan but after testing, driver would have been too close. I opted to use the "main garage" stall. I looked into the curtains and the price versus performance wasn't there. You would be much, much better off just insulating the garage. Less money and more effective. If you have any questions, let me know!






    I appreciate the response! I'm thinking I may go fo minimum effective dose and start with insulating the doors and the ceiling. Most of the walls are built into the side of a hill so not overly exposed to air temp. Thanks again for the feedback!
  • sdrthedjsdrthedj Members Posts: 313 ✭✭


    I am becoming intrigued. I have a mat and rug set up in my basement where I can hit balls. I have enough length for a sim, I think, and the skytrak is tempting, but I'm 6'4" and the ceiling is not high. I can manage a free full swing with a wedge, can hit a 5 iron if my swing is on plane, but will hit the joists if I get steep and I start getting tentative with a 7 iron. But I can see lots of good in dialing in my wedges. And maybe someday having a high ceiling. How realistic is the Skytrak for chips, pitches, wedges?




    Wedges good. Chips and pitches not as accurate.
  • swoosh21swoosh21 Members Posts: 861 ✭✭
    I have a third garage bay with my home gym equipment in that I would love to turn into a hitting bay, but I really don't want to lose the squat rack and punching bag setup. I'm trying to maximize the space some how to build a screen and protective netting for loose balls.
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  • So I've been browsing this site for a while. Quite honestly started here when looking for simulator advice...but now I'm trying to get my posts up so up so I can list something in the Lefty Swap and Shop. Anyway, attached is a photo of my simulator. I would be willing to answer questions, provide feedback etc. Disclaimer: I'm not an expert by any means. (Also...I have no clue how to get the picture to turn. My apologies)
  • sdrthedjsdrthedj Members Posts: 313 ✭✭
    swoosh21 wrote:


    I have a third garage bay with my home gym equipment in that I would love to turn into a hitting bay, but I really don't want to lose the squat rack and punching bag setup. I'm trying to maximize the space some how to build a screen and protective netting for loose balls.




    I put in the Rogue wall mount rack that folds up to the wall. It's the only way I could make a home gym work.
  • clevitedclevited Don't think you are, know you are. Members Posts: 1,008 ✭✭


    So I've been browsing this site for a while. Quite honestly started here when looking for simulator advice...but now I'm trying to get my posts up so up so I can list something in the Lefty Swap and Shop. Anyway, attached is a photo of my simulator. I would be willing to answer questions, provide feedback etc. Disclaimer: I'm not an expert by any means. (Also...I have no clue how to get the picture to turn. My apologies)




    Very nice set up, even when view sideways!
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