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Bigmean

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3 hours ago, Kmagnuss said:

@Bigmean ... I had a disaster of a year (last year) with my irons, and no matter what lessons I took, videos I studied, and thousands of balls I hit I couldn't get out of the funk.  What ended up doing it for me was a 6 week break to clear my head.  Sometimes we get so used to the flaws in our swings that we can't notice them, but for some reason after taking a break they become glaringly apparent the first time back out and easily fixable.

This used to work for me but the long time membership here knows that I have twice now put them down for a year or more over this.   I’m going to find a new guy, don’t even care who and get a single driver only lesson and see where that goes.  I’m finally having fun playing again and a large part of that was the driver working ok enough to have fun and score here and there, but there is something when I get my irons going well for me that opposes my driver swing.  It may be as dumb as I like too draw irons stock and want to fade a driver and I tried drawing driver at some point this summer and did ok with that before it fell apart but even I question if I ever truly commit to drawing it and it’s back to push fade/snap hook/good drive at random.

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3 hours ago, NRJyzr said:

 

Makes me think driver is a club length and/or club weight issue.

 

What length are your 3w and driver?  And what shaft weight for each?

 

So, and I didn’t know this at all, but my driver is 46.5”, my 3 wood is 43.75”.

 

I’m like a super regular dude, 5’11 maybe not even and 178 currently.  I can kinda play anything is one thing I have learned.

 

So, more info.  My 3 wood has lead tape on it, I have no idea what the sw is but I can get my scale out of attic and check.   It has to be absurd, like E something.  
 

(And I wouldn’t believe me after the shots I posted with driver, but you can take to the bank that if the guy who had like 50 iron sets, 8-10 drivers and 3 sets of wedges, that has ONLY ONE non jdm club in my bag the last decade, also has a whatever the hell year that is titleist wood of all things, hasn’t had a headcover in over a decade and has a face that is wearing away from the planet has this in the bag, I promise, it is working alot different than driver.  I don’t even know what 3 woods look like since like 2010, I have eyes only for her.)
 

My driver also had weights replaced to match the “feel” and I moved the low spin heavy front to the higher spin heavy rear.  It’s a 9* and I have it set to neutral and 10*.


As to driver length, I tried a 43” at some point my last stint, and in my shaft shootout I had some shorter in there.   It doesn’t help with bigger misses but it isn’t the reason the marks on my driver face left from that session look like I can’t see the ball.  I can get my 3 wood out there 230-250, but that is 2 full irons and I just feel like that is giving up and I hate that.

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5 hours ago, Bigmean said:

I have played this game (nard isn’t the only old guy here lol) I have never not been able to feel out swing changes that work for a while with the kind of reps I have put into driver

Haha, I'm older, not old. Older this way too. Have a rotator cuff injury (fell hard), may not swing a club for quite some time. Too early to tell how bad it is, x-ray negative, may need an MRI. Giving it a few more weeks before I go there. 

 

I have had the same driver issues as you where dispersion is off the charts but this year I hit on something that worked well for me. So ymmv, but I make sure to release and supinate lead arm a lot earlier. That is I rotate lead arm CCW from the top and rotate it from the shoulder socket, not the forearm. Did a bunch to help find fairways. The great thing is it's not a hard change, it's rather easy and my guess it lightens the load to square things and allows hands to work quieter nearer to impact. But big dog was more solid than other tee clubs and no, I never consciously applied same thought, so who knows might work well on shorter pokes too. I'll try it in a few months. It's an easy experiment.

 

 

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11 hours ago, Bigmean said:

This used to work for me but the long time membership here knows that I have twice now put them down for a year or more over this.   I’m going to find a new guy, don’t even care who and get a single driver only lesson and see where that goes.  I’m finally having fun playing again and a large part of that was the driver working ok enough to have fun and score here and there, but there is something when I get my irons going well for me that opposes my driver swing.  It may be as dumb as I like too draw irons stock and want to fade a driver and I tried drawing driver at some point this summer and did ok with that before it fell apart but even I question if I ever truly commit to drawing it and it’s back to push fade/snap hook/good drive at random.


I have been having it rough w my driver as I could hit well with all my other clubs even the supposed difficult 13.5 degree old school tiny headed fairway off the deck but I could not tame the driver. Tried to take some internet pointers from TXG and Marl Crossfield but no dice (largely because I can’t get as flexible as them).

 

Then came YouTube ads that I always ignored except one time I let Hank Haney’s One step driver ad run because I was busy and didn’t hit skip. It got me intrigued and I searched for his actual video. I followed his steps and flattened out my driver back swing and I got huge improvements. I am more confident with the driver more and more often down the line or slightly in the rough but less so lost balls. Now I am actually willing to step up to tee box with driver and not just my fairway wood or DI.

 

*not an ad for Hank Haney’s one step

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Christain, that Nissan course looks amazing!   14 greens is some real ball striking.

 

I'm sure you don’t need me to tell you this, and real life is in the way, but lag putting is just straight up time on practice green.  I will share my routine as it helps me a lot when I putt for fun.  I use two balls, generally different brands to keep separate and they play against each other.  I will drop at random 15-40ft from a cup.  I get 2 shots at it and have to clean them up.  Par is 2 of course and I do this for an hour to hours.   
 

I found that this most accurately simulates real situations, I try to give myself different looks and it keeps your reading and speed game in check because like in round you are given random medium to long putts and the whole ball vs ball I do gets me competitive for a winner and makes cleaning up important.  Anyway this drill works for me and keeps me mentally in it.

 

 

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5 hours ago, Bigmean said:

 I use two balls, generally different brands to keep separate and they play against each other.  I will drop at random 15-40ft from a cup.  I get 2 shots at it and have to clean them up.  Par is 2 of course and I do this for an hour to hours.   

I do something like this too, has done wonders for short game.

 

 

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On 12/2/2023 at 2:29 PM, Christen_The_Sloop said:

This is Nissin Miyako CC. Built by the founder of Cup Ramen. Has the nicest practice facility I’ve ever seen in Japan. 

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Wow!

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Driver = Callaway Smoke-Ai Max-D 

3 wood = Callaway Smoke-Ai Max HL

3 Hybrid = Tour Edge Exotics C722
Irons = 4-PW Miura KM 700
Gap Wedge = Miura HB 50*

Sand Wedge = Taylormade MG2 56*

Putter = LAB DF3

Ball = TP5x pix 

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I know @craz-e, that Nissan course looks baller…..they sell a lot of cups of noodles for that jam right there!

 

@Moarbutter, I didn’t realize your whole story from the jdm forum, but very cool to know.  I am beyond biased but you couldn’t have gotten a better set for what you are up to or I guess I could even say in general with how I feel about them.  Welcome to the sickness, you already realized that blades are just clubs and clubs have trade offs and “better” really isn’t objective.  I can only imagine what it’s like to realize that they aren’t scary at all, generally have tight dispersion, and most preconceived ideas are marketing residue stuck in your head.   I can attest that working irons back to a chance to get up and down from crappy drives is something they are good at hahaha.

 

You kinda nailed kyeoi blades, my best description would be they are like what people on forums who haven’t hit a lot of or any jdm say about mizzy blades, but really they have a heavier softer feeling to me if direct compared.   

Edited by Bigmean
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Oh boy, what an ENORMOUS day I had today. Played 9 holes and feel like I turned a MASSIVE corner in my game. 

 

I had realized during my last few rounds that I'd had some really great swing thoughts while I was playing, but they were kinda fleeting and I would forget them later in the round. After reviewing my round after I played, I decided to make it easy for me to take notes while I played, and set something up on my phone so I could quickly swap between my writing app and my GolfLogix app so I could jot some things down to keep me from forgetting and so I could look at them as I was walking to my ball before making my swings. While on the range, I started working on a couple things that I pulled from the Justin Rose video that @Christen_The_Sloop posted on Friday, and they were really working both on the range and on the first hole. I wrote a couple of miscellaneous things down, but then step up to the second hold and BOMB my driver further than I have ever hit it on that hole and I play it ALL the time.

 

I start the LONG walk to my ball and decide to make sure that I write down what has worked for me in my pre-shot ritual, but as I'm doing it, I remember a bunch of videos that I've seen in which each person says just how important it is to have the EXACT same ritual before each shot. I decide to observe what I do on each swing, and to actually write an incredibly detailed list of every single little thing that I do in my pre-shot ritual. I kinda stop paying attention to my short game for the next few holes as I'm writing all of this down, observing what I do after each shot, then go back and add / edit what I've already written down.

 

Everything comes together on the 6th after I tug my drive into the gunch on the left. Step up to my ball, and have some short, very hard grass about 6 inches behind my ball that means there's NO way that I can get a club on it, but if I were to aim about 45 degrees across the fairway, I would be able to get my club between two similar clumps of grass and make contact with the ball. I do this new pre-shot ritual, step up to the ball, hood a 7 iron and hit a PERFECT shot out of the gunch with this massive 160 yard shot that probably peels 80 yards left and runs directly up the fairway. Get up, do the same pre-shot ritual and tag a 5 iron about 180 that just fades and lands on the wrong side of the green.

 

I spend the rest of the round hitting great shot after great shot, when I had struggled MIGHTILY with consistency for the entire year. I had found that I would be able to easily get in the groove on the range, but would really struggle to bring that to the course. Whether it was hitting it thin, fat, miss heel, miss toe, block it, pull it. It was really frustrating and I was never able to fix it. After the round, I sat down and pulled all the notes together into an extremely prescriptive set of things to do during my pre-shot ritual, then drilled it on the range stepping off after every shot.

 

Hope you all had an awesome day today!

Edited by Moarbutter
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19 hours ago, Moarbutter said:

 

Oh man, this is a great way to describe it. I haven't hit Mizuno blades, but the Kyoeis feel the way that I thought my JPXs would feel. That heavy, soft, solid feel is just SO addicting. 

 

 

Lollllll, yeah. As a testament to that sickness I just turned a short post about P7TW into a freaking doctorate dissertation on the benefits of blades in this thread - 

 

 

Careful bro, that kind of talk on wrx is frowned upon greatly and used to get you a one month ban….. how do you think this thread started?😂

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2 hours ago, Bigmean said:

Careful bro, that kind of talk on wrx is frowned upon greatly and used to get you a one month ban….. how do you think this thread started?😂

 

😆😅 Heard that, my guy! I guess I probably shouldn't be encouraging people to play blades. Gotta keep those prices on used blades low so I can try a bunch of them.....

 

As an aside, have you ever been able to find any information about those Kyoeis? I cannot for the life of me find a review, specs, or anything about them. I think that you're right about them being the same as the Vega VM-01s, but I would like some confirmation on it

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On 12/2/2023 at 3:02 PM, PedronNiall said:

Guy in an alley said these fell off a truck so he'd let me have them for a steal. Zero forgiveness just the way the ancients intended. Will probably reshaft & regrip them in the next few weeks to my preferred specs, but good times so far.

 

I play the Nike VR TW's and they're the most forgiving blades I've ever played.  I'm sure there's better out there (Wilson Staff Model blades come to mind), but compared to the others I've owned (MP33, MP20, MP18, 1986 Titleist Tour Model), the TW's are the easiest to hit.  Putting in some Steelfiber shafts was icing on the cake.  With all that said, I've been gaming the Wilson Staff CB's because they're more forgiving on toe strikes, which has been my miss lately.

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8 hours ago, Nard_S said:

Not positive but those look to be from K molds which is their signature MB grind. Traditional in every respect of loft, weight and offset. Tourspec has data on all that.

 

I have a set of 1964's heads incoming. They are near same looking. Been wanting these for two years and by pure chance recently found a used set of heads and just closed a deal on them. Th #5i on those is 259g w/ loft at 28* and offset of FP 5mm. Very little bounce. Pure old school. Yours might have some variation on that but it looks like the bulk of their MB's are derived from K design.

 

 

 

Thank you for that! It's been incredibly difficult for me to find anything about them. The listing said Kyoei KCM, but the only KCM that I can find is the heritage release, which this definitely isn't.

 

Oh man, those 1964's are SEXY. I love the slightly rounder, more organic looking transition from topline into the muscle back than the sharper one that I have (not complaining, mind). I can't wait to hear how they play once you get them in and built up. 

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10 hours ago, Nard_S said:

Not positive but those look to be from K molds which is their signature MB grind. Traditional in every respect of loft, weight and offset. Tourspec has data on all that.

 

I have a set of 1964's heads incoming. They are near same looking. Been wanting these for two years and by pure chance recently found a used set of heads and just closed a deal on them. Th #5i on those is 259g w/ loft at 28* and offset of FP 5mm. Very little bounce. Pure old school. Yours might have some variation on that but it looks like the bulk of their MB's are derived from K design.

 

 

What are 1964s?  I honestly think the KCM (I have same ones as him) are better than the Vegas I had and I’m convinced that the 7-8 transition on these is not the same on the eye from a grind standpoint.   If you got irons off this mold I think you are going to love them.

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2 minutes ago, Bigmean said:

What are 1964s?  I honestly think the KCM (I have same ones as him) are better than the Vegas I had and I’m convinced that the 7-8 transition on these is not the same on the eye from a grind standpoint.   If you got irons off this mold I think you are going to love them.

Kyoei MB 1964 Iron

 

 

They were offered in late 2021. from K1 mold and updated grooves. Re-issue of the club that they 1st put out and put them on map. Tourspec had a few sets, almost bought when they were on sale but chickened out.

Been keeping eye and lo' & behold a used set popped up. Grabbed it. Love the look and specs. Really have zero need but well you know, lol.

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11 hours ago, Kmagnuss said:

I play the Nike VR TW's and they're the most forgiving blades I've ever played.  I'm sure there's better out there (Wilson Staff Model blades come to mind), but compared to the others I've owned (MP33, MP20, MP18, 1986 Titleist Tour Model), the TW's are the easiest to hit.  Putting in some Steelfiber shafts was icing on the cake.  With all that said, I've been gaming the Wilson Staff CB's because they're more forgiving on toe strikes, which has been my miss lately.

Interestingly the Staff Models don't score nearly as well as the TWs on the MPF scale--300/Classic for the Wilsons vs 500/Conventional for the TWs. Maybe it's the steel chosen for the TWs combined with still having cord grips on them making for more noticeable harshness on slight miss hits. I'll see how much they change when I've completely redone them, but so far stock for stock they've not felt anywhere near as buttery as the Wilsons when I first grabbed them. 

 

Could be my mind playing tricks on me a little since I've had Star grips on for so long now, but everyone who's hit the Staffs raves about how smooth they are. 100% the new shafts and grips will take the TWs up a notch. Interested to see if my feelings change once that's done. 

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1 hour ago, Nard_S said:

Kyoei MB 1964 Iron

 

 

They were offered in late 2021. from K1 mold and updated grooves. Re-issue of the club that they 1st put out and put them on map. Tourspec had a few sets, almost bought when they were on sale but chickened out.

Been keeping eye and lo' & behold a used set popped up. Grabbed it. Love the look and specs. Really have zero need but well you know, lol.

Perfect Face Progression. Of all the angles of the clubs in that pic though. Nothing looking down at them. That's all I want. 

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2 hours ago, Christen_The_Sloop said:

Perfect Face Progression. Of all the angles of the clubs in that pic though. Nothing looking down at them. That's all I want. 

 I'll post photos when I get them in a week or so. They won't look as good as glossy ad. From what I've seen, nothing out of ordinary. Seen faces but hard to judge. It's about proportion and these just seem rather average in that regard. 

 

 

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6 hours ago, PedronNiall said:

Interestingly the Staff Models don't score nearly as well as the TWs on the MPF scale--300/Classic for the Wilsons vs 500/Conventional for the TWs. Maybe it's the steel chosen for the TWs combined with still having cord grips on them making for more noticeable harshness on slight miss hits. I'll see how much they change when I've completely redone them, but so far stock for stock they've not felt anywhere near as buttery as the Wilsons when I first grabbed them. 

 

Could be my mind playing tricks on me a little since I've had Star grips on for so long now, but everyone who's hit the Staffs raves about how smooth they are. 100% the new shafts and grips will take the TWs up a notch. Interested to see if my feelings change once that's done. 

 

Forgiveness isn't measured by the final MPF score.  That score is little more than the C-Dimension minus the actual vertical CG.

 

MOI is the physical measure of forgiveness.

 

Then, you need to pay attention to the CG location as compared to the swing in question.  All the MOI in the world isn't useful if that cg is impossible to hit for one's swing.

 

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The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini 11.5*, 43.5", Phenom NL 60X -or- Cobra SpeedZone, ProtoPype 80S, 43.5"

Fwy woods: King LTD 3/4, RIP Beta 90X -or- TM Sim2 Ti 3w, NV105 X
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h, MMT 80 S 

Irons grab bag:  1-PW Golden Ram TW276, NV105 S; 1-PW Golden Ram TW282, RIP Tour 115 R; 2-PW Golden Ram Vibration Matched, NS Pro 950WF S
Wedges:  Dynacraft Dual Millled 52*, SteelFiber i125 S -or- Scratch 8620 DD 53*, SteelFiber i125 S; Cobra Snakebite 56* -or- Wilson Staff PMP 58*, Dynamic S -or- Ram TW282 SW -or- Ram TW276 SW
Putter:  Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34" -or- Cleveland Huntington Beach #1, 34.5" -or- Golden Ram TW Custom, 34" -or- Rife Bimini, 34" -or- Maxfli TM-2, 35"
Balls: Chrome Soft, Kirkland Signature 3pc (v3)

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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