Colorado WRX 2017

cphrey · March 3, 2017

As for your second part irv, I did the USGA survey yesterday and one of the questions was "How likely are you to take a two-stroke penalty dropped from the area of the lost/OB ball?" So clearly they are thinking about the Stroke and distance rules. They had a few different questions about stroke and distance on that same page actually.

Ironically enough, my answer to that questions was "Highly unlikely." No way I'm taking a two stroke penalty and dropping in the crap where I can't find my ball, I'll just play another from the tee, thanks.

One local rule the Kennedy Men's Club had was if you lost a ball inside the course (like in the rough between fairways), you'd simply drop and take a penalty. Yes, if the ball ended up in a questionable area, you would hit a provisional. But there is nothing more aggravating to hit your ball into some benign rough, and then you can't find it.

Same rule at Wellshire mens club as well. There are so many areas between fws where a ball can hide. It is kind of ridiculous really when an entire group watches a ball come to rest in the middle of the course but then no one finds it.
Like the rough between 4 and 5.

yep! Or 10-1-7, or 4 and 12 or 13 and 15 and 4 on the right...with all the trees and sometimes thick grass in those areas, balls get lost all the time. Not to mention the ole ball thief. I have resorted to chasing people down and asking to see the ball, only to see my initials on it. I have Prov1s with my initials in red, not huge letters but not hard to see...

Joelness · March 3, 2017

Our mens club did the same thing. Unless a ball was for sure OB we treated it as a lateral from the native.

Some guys didn't like it though, I made par after losing a ball last year and a dude in my group wasn't happy about it, lol.

cphrey · March 3, 2017

Our mens club did the same thing. Unless a ball was for sure OB we treated it as a lateral from the native.

Some guys didn't like it though, I made par after losing a ball last year and a dude in my group wasn't happy about it, lol.

they always hate it until they get to benefit from it.

seven dewey · March 3, 2017

I am a little late on replying here, but FWIW the PM-grind is very good in general conditions around the area for what I've noticed in my experience

I concur. I'm actually going to get a PM grind to replace my MD2 tour grind this year. I currently have a PM 64 and it allows for some creativity around the greens when needed.

av1084 · March 3, 2017

Anyone playing Sunday? Headed up to the mountains but could probably swing that.

I have an 11:15 @ Colorado National with one more spot if you want to fill it.
I love the rule changes. I like the 1" drop, which I believe is basically for your second drop to keep it in your drop area if the first one rolled out.

Would like to see distance penalty removed somehow to help keep tournament rounds moving. It would eliminate the extra time for a provisional and combined with shorter search times should equate to shorter rounds, or at least hopefully. I think something could be done for us average folks with the tour still implementing the 3 off the tee rule. Tournaments can get out of control long..i.e 5 hours or more. Which is one of the main reasons I don't play in too many tournaments.

Actually from what I understand of reading about the new rule, the 1" drop applies to any and all drops. Love the proposed changes and even though I don't play in tournaments, I think they should help speed up and simplify everyday rounds.

https://www.usga.org...ing-a-ball.html

ASak is correct, you can drop from any height, any time.

As for your second part irv, I did the USGA survey yesterday and one of the questions was "How likely are you to take a two-stroke penalty dropped from the area of the lost/OB ball?" So clearly they are thinking about the Stroke and distance rules. They had a few different questions about stroke and distance on that same page actually.

Ironically enough, my answer to that questions was "Highly unlikely." No way I'm taking a two stroke penalty and dropping in the crap where I can't find my ball, I'll just play another from the tee, thanks.

I disagree with you though on how long it takes to play a provisional. If you're a normal player it should be less than a minute to grab another ball and go through your routine again. Either way you're going to look for the first one so that time happens no matter what rule change you make. The big time sink is when you just hit a ball into the rough or a fairway bunker, don't take a provisional because it's just in the rough and then nobody finds it. Those are the only times I would likely take the two-stroke and drop in the area, but how often does that really happen? It only happens once a year for me, maybe.

I do agree with you that tournaments can be pretty brutal but what I won't agree with you on is that stroke and distance is the cause. I find the cause to be just generally slower play because everyone is trying to shave a shot or two so most all routines get longer. However, what the CGA did last year with their pace of play rules for their championship tournaments was unbelievably effective. I'm a little worried of excessive penalties for it but at the same time I don't think I played a round in the CGA Mid-AM last year that was over 4 hours.

Thanks Joel. Not gonna be able to swing that though cause we are headed back Sunday morning...if anyone is up for something a little later around Littleton let me know!

irvtrain · March 3, 2017

Anyone playing Sunday? Headed up to the mountains but could probably swing that.

I have an 11:15 @ Colorado National with one more spot if you want to fill it.
I love the rule changes. I like the 1" drop, which I believe is basically for your second drop to keep it in your drop area if the first one rolled out.

Would like to see distance penalty removed somehow to help keep tournament rounds moving. It would eliminate the extra time for a provisional and combined with shorter search times should equate to shorter rounds, or at least hopefully. I think something could be done for us average folks with the tour still implementing the 3 off the tee rule. Tournaments can get out of control long..i.e 5 hours or more. Which is one of the main reasons I don't play in too many tournaments.

Actually from what I understand of reading about the new rule, the 1" drop applies to any and all drops. Love the proposed changes and even though I don't play in tournaments, I think they should help speed up and simplify everyday rounds.

https://www.usga.org...ing-a-ball.html

ASak is correct, you can drop from any height, any time.

As for your second part irv, I did the USGA survey yesterday and one of the questions was "How likely are you to take a two-stroke penalty dropped from the area of the lost/OB ball?" So clearly they are thinking about the Stroke and distance rules. They had a few different questions about stroke and distance on that same page actually.

Ironically enough, my answer to that questions was "Highly unlikely." No way I'm taking a two stroke penalty and dropping in the crap where I can't find my ball, I'll just play another from the tee, thanks.

I disagree with you though on how long it takes to play a provisional. If you're a normal player it should be less than a minute to grab another ball and go through your routine again. Either way you're going to look for the first one so that time happens no matter what rule change you make. The big time sink is when you just hit a ball into the rough or a fairway bunker, don't take a provisional because it's just in the rough and then nobody finds it. Those are the only times I would likely take the two-stroke and drop in the area, but how often does that really happen? It only happens once a year for me, maybe.

I do agree with you that tournaments can be pretty brutal but what I won't agree with you on is that stroke and distance is the cause. I find the cause to be just generally slower play because everyone is trying to shave a shot or two so most all routines get longer. However, what the CGA did last year with their pace of play rules for their championship tournaments was unbelievably effective. I'm a little worried of excessive penalties for it but at the same time I don't think I played a round in the CGA Mid-AM last year that was over 4 hours.

OK interesting that it is for any drop. Golf Channel was interviewing someone from the R&A at St. Andrews and he was demonstrating the purpose of the 1" drop. Basically showing that it designed to keep your drop in a certain area, after the first drop, but maybe they're thinking lets try and eliminate more than one drop all together. So players aren't going through the tedious process of multiple drops then placing.

As for distance penalty, in the Rule changes thread, everyone is talking about playing the "native", "wooded areas", i.e any area that is not "designed grass" would be played as a lateral hazard. So you wouldn't have to drop into the junk with a two stroke penalty. I like this idea and can think of several courses, where even if I found the ball in those areas, I wouldn't want to play and ruin a club. I, like many wrxers, am a club ho after all and don't want to scuff a club for a shot lol.

We'll have to agree to disagree about distance penalties and provisionals being one of a couple reasons for long rounds. Obviously generally slow players will slow rounds down the most but hopefully the 40 second shot clock will help. I think the USGA and R&A are doing what they can to make golf more enjoyable and faster.

jacobEDGE · March 3, 2017

I have an 11:15 @ Colorado National with one more spot if you want to fill it.

If that's an open invitation, and still available, I'd love to join! Still have never played that course, and I'm all about trying new places.

joconn10 · March 4, 2017

Our mens club did the same thing. Unless a ball was for sure OB we treated it as a lateral from the native.

Some guys didn't like it though, I made par after losing a ball last year and a dude in my group wasn't happy about it, lol.

they always hate it until they get to benefit from it.

I wish my mens club (Buffalo Run) would deem anything in the native as a lateral hazard. I've been in the club for 7 years and we have never had the lateral rule. As some of you probably know, the native in the middle of the summer there is a horrendous. Love watching guys actually find their ball, then try and hit a long iron out of it ...the provisional and search party starts all over again.

masamitsu · March 4, 2017

At one of my clubs (Blackstone) is the same in the summers. You are actually better off not finding your ball.

These new updated rules don't take affect until 2019 right?

masamitsu · March 4, 2017

Anyone playing Sunday? Headed up to the mountains but could probably swing that.

I had tee times for this weekend but had to cancel. Ran into some gallbladder issues Monday night and didn't get released from the hospital until Friday. I'm hoping to be back on the course sometime this week. Man, it the weather beautiful today!

I_HATE_SNOW · March 5, 2017

At one of my clubs (Blackstone) is the same in the summers. You are actually better off not finding your ball.

These new updated rules don't take affect until 2019 right?

IIRC, they are suggested changes. 6 month comment period until August 31, revise and go in effect Jan1 of '19.

jacobEDGE · March 5, 2017

Had my fitting yesterday. Still waiting on my Trackman numbers (which are not that impressive), but I got my putting stats. While not 100% perfect, it's at least very consistent! Turns out the putter I'm using is very very close to what I need. Only a degree or two change needed in loft & lie. Not bad for a random Craigslist putter I picked up based on looks alone.

brianhorne8 · March 5, 2017

Anyone get out this weekend?

I have a Thursday morning round at Murphy. Doing a little match play against a good friend of mine. Hoping I can get the W!

jacobEDGE · March 5, 2017

Okay, so I got my Trackman info, and I'll share my story.

First and foremost, I went into the fitting with a lot different parameters set than most. My dad did work for TaylorMade at the PGA Show, and in return got $8,000-$10,000 in merchandise credit. My dad is getting up there in age, doesn't have the health (back) like he used to, and plays maybe once or twice a year. So he decided to let me use that credit to get a new set of clubs. So I went into my fitting with one thing on my mind: Find the shafts and measurements to fit my perspective TaylorMade head want list. I want to get the M1 440 driver, M2 Tour 3-wood, M2 hybrid, and P-770 irons. So basically we took measurements of my current setup, and played around with shafts.

Turns out, my current bag is almost ideal. My current driver is a TP Japan issue SLDR 430 with a Tour AD MT shaft (stiff, 64-gram). I already own an extra 5 shafts that I've been experimenting with on the course and range, and the Trackman verified what I've been seeing in a real world setting, that the Tour AD shaft is the best performing for me. I took 2 other shafts with me to the fitting (Fujikura Pro 53 Stiff and Aldila Rogue Black 70 Stiff). I'm not sure if they are the real shafts, or the made-for TaylorMade versions. But we used all 3 of my shafts in the M1 440 head, with the Tour AD performing best. Then we tried a few other shafts off the wall, the one my fitter liked best for me was the Hazardous Yellow. For some reason, everything he was testing me out in was R flex (5.5 in the Hazardous), even though all my personal shafts were stiff. And the numbers are very close regardless of flex. Here is my dispersion chart and the averages between the M1 in the Hazardous, M1 in my Tour Ad, and my current SLDR 430 in the Tour AD.

So yeah, honestly the Hazardous seems to be the worst fit of the bunch? My swing speed is kind of in the in-between when it comes to Regular vs Stiff flex. But with my stiff shaft, I do average a slightly faster swing speed. The smash factor on the M1 + Tour AD is pretty good. All the stats are pretty darn similar though, nothing is really leagues above anything else. Even though we knew I wouldn't buy anything else, I did try out the Epic Sub Zero in a couple shafts...and I didn't hit that for s***. Way worse than both the TaylorMade heads I swung. I kind of want to go back in and test a few more shafts out with the M1 head. I also didn't notice until we were done swinging, but he had the weight set all the way in the front, and a neutral fade/draw bias. In my SLDR, I have the weight set all the way down at the heel. I'm wondering what my numbers would be if I had the weight either back, or neutral for the M1.

I hit some hybrid shots. I currently game an SLDR S 3 hybrid with a senior flex, stock shaft. I purchased it from GolfSmith used for like $30. I can hit it pretty straight, but distances are all over the place. From 190-270. Hell, I hit it 305 yards today at Heritage Eagle Bend (downhill and downwind...but still). So with the M2 3 hybrid in a Kuro Kage 70gram regular flex...I hit a much much more controlled distance. Carry was right around 213 every single swing. And I had a real nice, straight ball flight too. So that's pretty much a winner.

Went over wedges real quick, since I have some brand new MD3's from Callaway Pre Owned's Black Friday sale last November. I didn't know anything about bounce or grind when I bought them, so my fitter went over what that means. We used some tape on the sole of the club, and it showed I probably need a little more grind. I tend to pick things clean off the turf. If I ever take a divot, it's because I hit the ball fat. On a normal swing, I never take any turf with me. That goes from long irons all the way down to my wedges. One thing he suggested was getting the same shafts in my wedges as in my irons. Just to keep things uniform and similar.

Now the irons. I purchased my current irons off eBay back in November. Got 2014 TaylorMade TP MC's. Dynamic Gold Tour Issue shafts, with MCC grips. Not sure what the wrap situation is on them. The seller wasn't very certain on if the clubs were stock or not. Turns out, the whole set ended up being about 2.5-3 degrees flat. Which, as fate would have it, is exactly what I need anyway. The only thing I would need to change on them, is cut them down 1/2". They didn't have the 770 heads to try out yet, so we used the Callaway Apex Pro head to try out a bunch of different shafts. We looked up the specs, and they are the closest to the MC's I'm using. Both 6 iron heads are 30º loft. So with that said, we blew through about 6 different shafts, and nothing really improved on the Dynamic Gold S400's. Tried the Project X LZ's, one of the Steelfiber shafts, UST Recoil. and a few others I don't remember. Don't remember trying any KBS shafts though. The one shaft that performed about on par with the S4000's was the Nippon 950GH's. Which, again, he gave me all regular flex shafts (when using the Tour Issue s400's on my current gamers). On my build sheet, he put down the Nippon's, which I'm not really opposed to. But something is very confusing to me.

So the numbers are nearly identical across the board with everything. But it's strange. I'm getting ever so slightly higher launch angle, spin, and total height with the S400's than the NS Pros. Which, consulting this hand chart on TaylorMade's website...should be the exact opposite.

So, according to this chart, the Dynamic Gold Tour Issues are one of the lowest launch, and lowest spinning shafts on the market. Very bottom left hand corner. Whereas the Nippon 950's are the exact opposite. They're very high spin and high launch. Yet somehow, I'm getting the Gold's to launch higher and spin more?! How in the world does that make any sense?!

Also, after digging on Nippon's website, they suggest the NS Pro series of shafts for people that get 130-165 yard carry with their 6-irons, and the Modus shafts for people that carry 6-irons 160-195 yards. My 6-irons are carrying nearly 180. So I'm surprised I was put into that shaft to begin with. I mean, I guess I just got to trust to professionals. They're the ones getting paid to do this, and have been at it for quite some time.

Overall, the process only took about 3 hours for me. My fitter was Mitch, and he was a really great guy. Super easy going, easy to talk to. Very knowledgeable. I liked the process at Club Champion much better than D'Lance. Just getting the visuals of hitting into a screen and seeing a projected ball flight really helped the process for me. He told me that anytime there is an open stall, or a time without any fittings scheduled, I'm welcome to come back in once they get the 770 heads in. I'm still not 100% sold on a specific shaft for the driver or irons. Leaning towards the S400's again, because they're more expensive and the clubs are free for me.

One thing I didn't test out was any fairway woods. They had the M2 3 wood, but not the M2 Tour. I hit the M2 Tour down at the PGA Show and really enjoyed it. Whatever shaft I end up choosing for the driver, should I just get the same thing for the 3 wood? Do people do that? Matching their shafts from driver to fairway woods?

So yeah, I'd highly recommend going here. I heard him talking to a walk-in customer that they extended the half off deal into April, since they've been so busy with bookings. If anyone makes it this far in my post, and wants to sift through all the info and give me any pointers/advice, feel free! I'm all ears!

jacobEDGE · March 6, 2017

Anyone get out this weekend? I have a Thursday morning round at Murphy. Doing a little match play against a good friend of mine. Hoping I can get the W!

Did a quick 9 holes after work Friday at Murphy. I think it might have been opening day out there? Either way, the course was great for March golf. I shot a 38, which is my best front 9 out there. Went out to play Heritage Eagle Bend today for the first time. Super windy, and those greens are super difficult...but wow did I love the course! Some major bombs down wind and downhill. Played behind a 4-some and was waiting on every shot, so I just played 2 balls all day. Took driver with my main ball, and 3-wood off the tee for my second ball.

brianhorne8 · March 6, 2017

Anyone get out this weekend? I have a Thursday morning round at Murphy. Doing a little match play against a good friend of mine. Hoping I can get the W!

Did a quick 9 holes after work Friday at Murphy. I think it might have been opening day out there? Either way, the course was great for March golf. I shot a 38, which is my best front 9 out there. Went out to play Heritage Eagle Bend today for the first time. Super windy, and those greens are super difficult...but wow did I love the course! Some major bombs down wind and downhill. Played behind a 4-some and was waiting on every shot, so I just played 2 balls all day. Took driver with my main ball, and 3-wood off the tee for my second ball.

How were the greens at Murphy?

masamitsu · March 6, 2017

Anyone get out this weekend? I have a Thursday morning round at Murphy. Doing a little match play against a good friend of mine. Hoping I can get the W!

Did a quick 9 holes after work Friday at Murphy. I think it might have been opening day out there? Either way, the course was great for March golf. I shot a 38, which is my best front 9 out there. Went out to play Heritage Eagle Bend today for the first time. Super windy, and those greens are super difficult...but wow did I love the course! Some major bombs down wind and downhill. Played behind a 4-some and was waiting on every shot, so I just played 2 balls all day. Took driver with my main ball, and 3-wood off the tee for my second ball.

Used to be a member at HEB. The course layout is pretty friendly so the only defense the course has is the greens and the fact you don't get many flat lies. And it's almost always windy at HEB. You should play it again in the summer when the greens a running a little faster.

Joelness · March 6, 2017

Okay, so I got my Trackman info, and I'll share my story.

First and foremost, I went into the fitting with a lot different parameters set than most. My dad did work for TaylorMade at the PGA Show, and in return got $8,000-$10,000 in merchandise credit. My dad is getting up there in age, doesn't have the health (back) like he used to, and plays maybe once or twice a year. So he decided to let me use that credit to get a new set of clubs. So I went into my fitting with one thing on my mind: Find the shafts and measurements to fit my perspective TaylorMade head want list. I want to get the M1 440 driver, M2 Tour 3-wood, M2 hybrid, and P-770 irons. So basically we took measurements of my current setup, and played around with shafts.

Turns out, my current bag is almost ideal. My current driver is a TP Japan issue SLDR 430 with a Tour AD MT shaft (stiff, 64-gram). I already own an extra 5 shafts that I've been experimenting with on the course and range, and the Trackman verified what I've been seeing in a real world setting, that the Tour AD shaft is the best performing for me. I took 2 other shafts with me to the fitting (Fujikura Pro 53 Stiff and Aldila Rogue Black 70 Stiff). I'm not sure if they are the real shafts, or the made-for TaylorMade versions. But we used all 3 of my shafts in the M1 440 head, with the Tour AD performing best. Then we tried a few other shafts off the wall, the one my fitter liked best for me was the Hazardous Yellow. For some reason, everything he was testing me out in was R flex (5.5 in the Hazardous), even though all my personal shafts were stiff. And the numbers are very close regardless of flex. Here is my dispersion chart and the averages between the M1 in the Hazardous, M1 in my Tour Ad, and my current SLDR 430 in the Tour AD.

So yeah, honestly the Hazardous seems to be the worst fit of the bunch? My swing speed is kind of in the in-between when it comes to Regular vs Stiff flex. But with my stiff shaft, I do average a slightly faster swing speed. The smash factor on the M1 + Tour AD is pretty good. All the stats are pretty darn similar though, nothing is really leagues above anything else. Even though we knew I wouldn't buy anything else, I did try out the Epic Sub Zero in a couple shafts...and I didn't hit that for s***. Way worse than both the TaylorMade heads I swung. I kind of want to go back in and test a few more shafts out with the M1 head. I also didn't notice until we were done swinging, but he had the weight set all the way in the front, and a neutral fade/draw bias. In my SLDR, I have the weight set all the way down at the heel. I'm wondering what my numbers would be if I had the weight either back, or neutral for the M1.

I hit some hybrid shots. I currently game an SLDR S 3 hybrid with a senior flex, stock shaft. I purchased it from GolfSmith used for like $30. I can hit it pretty straight, but distances are all over the place. From 190-270. Hell, I hit it 305 yards today at Heritage Eagle Bend (downhill and downwind...but still). So with the M2 3 hybrid in a Kuro Kage 70gram regular flex...I hit a much much more controlled distance. Carry was right around 213 every single swing. And I had a real nice, straight ball flight too. So that's pretty much a winner.

Went over wedges real quick, since I have some brand new MD3's from Callaway Pre Owned's Black Friday sale last November. I didn't know anything about bounce or grind when I bought them, so my fitter went over what that means. We used some tape on the sole of the club, and it showed I probably need a little more grind. I tend to pick things clean off the turf. If I ever take a divot, it's because I hit the ball fat. On a normal swing, I never take any turf with me. That goes from long irons all the way down to my wedges. One thing he suggested was getting the same shafts in my wedges as in my irons. Just to keep things uniform and similar.

Now the irons. I purchased my current irons off eBay back in November. Got 2014 TaylorMade TP MC's. Dynamic Gold Tour Issue shafts, with MCC grips. Not sure what the wrap situation is on them. The seller wasn't very certain on if the clubs were stock or not. Turns out, the whole set ended up being about 2.5-3 degrees flat. Which, as fate would have it, is exactly what I need anyway. The only thing I would need to change on them, is cut them down 1/2". They didn't have the 770 heads to try out yet, so we used the Callaway Apex Pro head to try out a bunch of different shafts. We looked up the specs, and they are the closest to the MC's I'm using. Both 6 iron heads are 30º loft. So with that said, we blew through about 6 different shafts, and nothing really improved on the Dynamic Gold S400's. Tried the Project X LZ's, one of the Steelfiber shafts, UST Recoil. and a few others I don't remember. Don't remember trying any KBS shafts though. The one shaft that performed about on par with the S4000's was the Nippon 950GH's. Which, again, he gave me all regular flex shafts (when using the Tour Issue s400's on my current gamers). On my build sheet, he put down the Nippon's, which I'm not really opposed to. But something is very confusing to me.

So the numbers are nearly identical across the board with everything. But it's strange. I'm getting ever so slightly higher launch angle, spin, and total height with the S400's than the NS Pros. Which, consulting this hand chart on TaylorMade's website...should be the exact opposite.

So, according to this chart, the Dynamic Gold Tour Issues are one of the lowest launch, and lowest spinning shafts on the market. Very bottom left hand corner. Whereas the Nippon 950's are the exact opposite. They're very high spin and high launch. Yet somehow, I'm getting the Gold's to launch higher and spin more?! How in the world does that make any sense?!

Also, after digging on Nippon's website, they suggest the NS Pro series of shafts for people that get 130-165 yard carry with their 6-irons, and the Modus shafts for people that carry 6-irons 160-195 yards. My 6-irons are carrying nearly 180. So I'm surprised I was put into that shaft to begin with. I mean, I guess I just got to trust to professionals. They're the ones getting paid to do this, and have been at it for quite some time.

Overall, the process only took about 3 hours for me. My fitter was Mitch, and he was a really great guy. Super easy going, easy to talk to. Very knowledgeable. I liked the process at Club Champion much better than D'Lance. Just getting the visuals of hitting into a screen and seeing a projected ball flight really helped the process for me. He told me that anytime there is an open stall, or a time without any fittings scheduled, I'm welcome to come back in once they get the 770 heads in. I'm still not 100% sold on a specific shaft for the driver or irons. Leaning towards the S400's again, because they're more expensive and the clubs are free for me.

One thing I didn't test out was any fairway woods. They had the M2 3 wood, but not the M2 Tour. I hit the M2 Tour down at the PGA Show and really enjoyed it. Whatever shaft I end up choosing for the driver, should I just get the same thing for the 3 wood? Do people do that? Matching their shafts from driver to fairway woods?

So yeah, I'd highly recommend going here. I heard him talking to a walk-in customer that they extended the half off deal into April, since they've been so busy with bookings. If anyone makes it this far in my post, and wants to sift through all the info and give me any pointers/advice, feel free! I'm all ears!

Jacob, it doesn't matter what the chart says. They're just a rough guide anyway. Go with what works for you. Keep in mind those distance recommendations for the Nippon's are sea level, where your 180 probably would be around 160-165. Either way though, the same thing with the different Nippon recommendations. Trust what flies best for you, not what any manufacturer says.

Anyone get out this weekend?

I have a Thursday morning round at Murphy. Doing a little match play against a good friend of mine. Hoping I can get the W!

Played CO National Saturday and Sunday. Man it was gorgeous this weekend. I thought it was supposed to be windy yesterday but it turned out great. I didn't play well but at least had a good time.

The greens are a little beat up from all this winter play out there. Plenty of unfixed ball marks and since the grass isn't growing yet they haven't really recovered much. I don't expect anything better in the first weekend of March honestly. Just being able to play is good enough for me. The fairways were punched really late (I'm assuming to get as much of the winter moisture into the roots as possible) so they probably won't be healed up until April sometime.

masamitsu · March 6, 2017

Played CO National Saturday and Sunday. Man it was gorgeous this weekend. I thought it was supposed to be windy yesterday but it turned out great. I didn't play well but at least had a good time.

The greens are a little beat up from all this winter play out there. Plenty of unfixed ball marks and since the grass isn't growing yet they haven't really recovered much. I don't expect anything better in the first weekend of March honestly. Just being able to play is good enough for me. The fairways were punched really late (I'm assuming to get as much of the winter moisture into the roots as possible) so they probably won't be healed up until April sometime.

I didn't play but it was plenty windy in Parker. My grill kept getting picked up and dropped by the wind.

thaar · March 6, 2017

So I reached out to an Edel fitter (Stan Sayers) to inquire about getting a putter. According to his site, he's a master fitter, though it's not listed on Edel's site as such - not sure if a master fitter is any better, but I'd rather have someone more knowledgeable than not. Anyway, he filled me in on the details of the fitting. Here's his response:

It takes about an hour for the complete fitting. We fit the putter to your necessary specs and then weight the putter for distance control. The total cost is $500(includes putter).

What are your thoughts on this? I doubt it includes any customization, so I feel like this may be a little steep in price, but I'm not certain.

Edit: So it includes some customization: You can choose platinum, black or gold head. Paint color of logo. 3 initials on putter. That's what's available. Anything else would be extra.

masamitsu · March 6, 2017

I would have to factor in the cost of the fitting, which I don't know. If the fitting is $200, then $300 for a putter isn't bad. But if the fitting is <$100, then the cost of the putter is pretty steep w/o customization's. I will say that I've heard great things about Edel putters, never personally used one. I would like to check out some of their wedge thought, they look nasty.

Edit : Did you do your putter fitting already at CC?

thaar · March 6, 2017

From what I recall reading in the past, the fittings tend to cost anywhere from $100-$150, though some people have gotten it for free. What I don't remember is whether or not the fitting was credited to the purchase of the putter (maybe that's where I'm getting the free part). I guess in the grand scheme of things, a custom fit putter for $400-500 isn't that ridiculous when you consider a nice Scotty/Bettenardi/custom putter can run near that.

masamitsu · March 6, 2017

Amen. Just priced out another Carbon 1/4 and it was just a shade over $600. We expecting our 2nd son in May and wanted to get a putter with both their names on it.

thaar · March 6, 2017

That's a cool idea! I wish I was a better putter and knew what I liked and works for me, otherwise I'd explore getting a Carbon since they're local and right down the street from me.

I ended up getting another quote from a fitter:

I would be fitting you for the new torque balanced putter. The fitting will take about 30 - 60 minutes, and I will fit you for aim and weighting of the putter. The fitting cost is $120 but will be reduced to $60 if you order a putter. Custom Edel torque balanced putters are $375.

So it looks like the price isn't that vastly different, about $65 savings in the long run. With that being said, is it worth it to go with a master fitter over not? That question is probably better suited for the putter forum...

danzur · March 6, 2017

That's a cool idea! I wish I was a better putter and knew what I liked and works for me, otherwise I'd explore getting a Carbon since they're local and right down the street from me.

I ended up getting another quote from a fitter:

I would be fitting you for the new torque balanced putter. The fitting will take about 30 - 60 minutes, and I will fit you for aim and weighting of the putter. The fitting cost is $120 but will be reduced to $60 if you order a putter. Custom Edel torque balanced putters are $375.

So it looks like the price isn't that vastly different, about $65 savings in the long run. With that being said, is it worth it to go with a master fitter over not? That question is probably better suited for the putter forum...

I'm not sure i can give you the best answer to the question, but I can tell you Stan is a great guy and knows what he is doing. He has an office/setup and Colorado Golf Club. I've done a few things with him, and would recommend him for sure.

masamitsu · March 6, 2017

It's a tough call. I will say I've heard good things about Stan.

Danzur - do you need to be a member of CGC to see Stan?

thaar · March 6, 2017

I asked that question to Stan, and he works with non-members Wednesday through Saturday, at least for fittings. I'm thinking $65 isn't a deal breaker, particularly when he is well respected.

masamitsu · March 6, 2017

I asked that question to Stan, and he works with non-members Wednesday through Saturday, at least for fittings. I'm thinking $65 isn't a deal breaker, particularly when he is well respected.

that's good to know.

seven dewey · March 6, 2017

I would be fitting you for the new torque balanced putter. The fitting will take about 30 - 60 minutes, and I will fit you for aim and weighting of the putter. The fitting cost is $120 but will be reduced to $60 if you order a putter.

I just found the email thread from when I inquired about an Edel fitting a couple years ago. It was from Stan....I never did end up getting one, and have probably used no less than 5 putters over that time frame so maybe that was a mistake

Hi Ian,

A putter fitting is $120 but if you buy a putter it's $60. Takes about an hour.