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Colorado WRX 2017


brianhorne8

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Super looking forward to my fitting. A little disappointed about the wedge approach, but then again, I don't really know what I'd be expecting anyway. I'm so all over the place with my wedge game anyway.

 

It was beautiful out today. Went back and bettered my score at Broken Tee from the last time I played there. Started off with a birdie and 3 pars, all 1-putts. Of course that didn't end up lasting my entire round. Still looking to get out some place tomorrow. Anyone have anything planned and an extra opening in their group? Willing to drive north/south/wherever. Preferably want to keep greens fees in the $30-$40 range (I walk).

 

Jacob, sorry I missed your post. I would've loved to get out with you. I ended up playing Fox Hill on Sunday with some buddies. It's even further north in Longmont but easily one of the top 3 parkland golf courses in the state IMO.

 

Cool stuff, all! -- at some point I'll have to get out and play with some of you kind folks if you ever come up toward NoCo. :) Really cool to hear about all of the fitting experiences. I wish I could swing a golf club indoors and I'd be all over it. :(

 

Andrew, I'm always down to play most anywhere in NoCo. Let me know and maybe we can meet in the middle at Fox Hill sometime. BTW, if I take care of it our group usually pays $14 to walk or $30 to ride.

 

On that note, who does everyone's club work for them around here?

 

av1084, I mentioned a guy a few pages ago that does REALLY good work. His name is Buddy Beam out of Striker Golf. As I said in the previous post when I spoke to the current PGA Colorado Section champ about fitting he told me "nobody touches my clubs except for Buddy." I have a few other friends that go to him also and the attention to detail is second to none.

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Loving all the reviews/stories from their fitting experience. Question, do they not have the P-750/770's in stock yet? Or have none of you been too interested in trying them? I'm specifically hoping that the 770's work best for me, and are my number 1 interest in checking out.

 

Also wanting to see how I fit with the Srixon Z 765/965 heads as well. They're so damn good looking.

 

Srixons, yes. Didn't see the TMs, though I was not interested in trying them, so I may have missed them.

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I didn't see the P-750 or 770's either. I don't think they're out yet, are they? I also wasn't looking very closely for them either though...

Cobra LTDx LS - Oban Kiyoshi HB-65
Cobra F8 4w - Tour AD IZ-7s
Cobra 4h - SmacWrap 780 ES x
Cobra Forged Tec Black - AMT x100
Titleist Vokey 50/54/58 SM9
Edel E-1

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So in preparation for my fitting...when you guys are talking about the sticker shock, what am I looking at? Obviously I know there can be a huge range but numbers did you get based on the recommended set up? I need some idea to prepare both myself and most importantly my wife for the potential punch to the wallet :swoon:

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Expect $200+ per club, and probably $500+ for a driver. Keep in mind though that you don't have to purchase them there. Keep an eye out on BST, e-bay, RBG, etc. Also, if you find Mizuno's are your recommended club, Mizuno doesn't have an upcharge for shafts (if it's available to them), so you can take your build sheet directly to them rather than having CC build it.

Cobra LTDx LS - Oban Kiyoshi HB-65
Cobra F8 4w - Tour AD IZ-7s
Cobra 4h - SmacWrap 780 ES x
Cobra Forged Tec Black - AMT x100
Titleist Vokey 50/54/58 SM9
Edel E-1

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Thaar - hypothetical question. If I'm fit into the JPX 900 driver would it make sense to have CC built it so it will carry the lifetime guarantee OR will there be an additional charge for CC to build them.

 

I split my fitting sessions. First is 21 Mar at 11 and again 23 Mar at 4. Can't wait!

Mizuno JPX900 EvoIII S (weights center channel port 1 & 2)
Mizuno GT190 Atmos Blue 6S
Mizuno CLK 19* Speeder EVO HB S
Titleist 4i AMT S300
Mizuno JPX 900 Forged 5-G KBS Tour
Mizuno S18 54.8/58.8
Carbon Ringo 1/4
Balls : 2017 ProV1x / KSig / Vice Pro+
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Thaar - hypothetical question. If I'm fit into the JPX 900 driver would it make sense to have CC built it so it will carry the lifetime guarantee OR will there be an additional charge for CC to build them.

 

I split my fitting sessions. First is 21 Mar at 11 and again 23 Mar at 4. Can't wait!

 

Probably depends on the shaft - any sort of even premium-ish shaft is going to have a HEFTY premium placed on it. In that case, I definitely would not go the CC route.

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Thaar - hypothetical question. If I'm fit into the JPX 900 driver would it make sense to have CC built it so it will carry the lifetime guarantee OR will there be an additional charge for CC to build them.

 

I split my fitting sessions. First is 21 Mar at 11 and again 23 Mar at 4. Can't wait!

 

Does the lifetime guarantee really matter? Do you think it's any better than what Mizzy would offer? For me, I don't think the lifetime guarantee would matter.

 

There are certain shaft manufacturers that will only deal with fitters, and not manufacturers. I believe Oban is one of them. If you end up getting fit into one of those shafts, I'd weigh the options comparing ebay/BST/etc and paying someone to build it for you. I think in the end though, CC will end up being quite a bit more expensive. I imagine you'll pay full price for the club with stock shaft, then add the upgraded shaft to it.

 

Again, you don't have to pull the trigger right then and there.

Cobra LTDx LS - Oban Kiyoshi HB-65
Cobra F8 4w - Tour AD IZ-7s
Cobra 4h - SmacWrap 780 ES x
Cobra Forged Tec Black - AMT x100
Titleist Vokey 50/54/58 SM9
Edel E-1

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Expect $200+ per club, and probably $500+ for a driver. Keep in mind though that you don't have to purchase them there. Keep an eye out on BST, e-bay, RBG, etc. Also, if you find Mizuno's are your recommended club, Mizuno doesn't have an upcharge for shafts (if it's available to them), so you can take your build sheet directly to them rather than having CC build it.

 

Thanks for the information! I'm hoping Mizunos are the clubs for me, I've loved hitting them whenever I go to the store and saw the no-upcharge for the shafts they have, which would definitely be a win-win. I definitely appreciate that they don't try to force you to buy right there. Will be nice to have a little time to evaluate options and do some cost benefit analysis.

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Question on spin - should I be concerned with the low spin I was getting with the Mizuno's paired with the S400? I was averaging roughly 5,000rpms with them, while I had a more optimal spin rate with the Titleist 716CB's, albeit with a better smash factor and AoA. It's hard for me to question the yardage performance of the Mizuno's overall though. And I would assume the spin rate would increase as I improve my AoA, right? Am I becoming too nit-picky here???

 

561570e1-a228-4e88-9c38-fa1bfb72ce93-Tim%20Haar%202017-02-17%20Multi%20Group%20Report_Page_4_zpsovvgy31b.jpg

Cobra LTDx LS - Oban Kiyoshi HB-65
Cobra F8 4w - Tour AD IZ-7s
Cobra 4h - SmacWrap 780 ES x
Cobra Forged Tec Black - AMT x100
Titleist Vokey 50/54/58 SM9
Edel E-1

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On that note, who does everyone's club work for them around here?

 

av1084, I mentioned a guy a few pages ago that does REALLY good work. His name is Buddy Beam out of Striker Golf. As I said in the previous post when I spoke to the current PGA Colorado Section champ about fitting he told me "nobody touches my clubs except for Buddy." I have a few other friends that go to him also and the attention to detail is second to none.

 

Thanks Joel! Will be checking him out ASAP. Appreciate it - sorry I missed it earlier!

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Question on spin - should I be concerned with the low spin I was getting with the Mizuno's paired with the S400? I was averaging roughly 5,000rpms with them, while I had a more optimal spin rate with the Titleist 716CB's, albeit with a better smash factor and AoA. It's hard for me to question the yardage performance of the Mizuno's overall though. And I would assume the spin rate would increase as I improve my AoA, right? Am I becoming too nit-picky here???

 

561570e1-a228-4e88-9c38-fa1bfb72ce93-Tim%20Haar%202017-02-17%20Multi%20Group%20Report_Page_4_zpsovvgy31b.jpg

 

Tharr, those are all with a 6 iron correct? From what it looks like to me, yes your spin is too low. However, as you said your AoA isn't as steep and therefore would spin it less. From what I can see, the low spin and your clubhead speed are the reason why it's flying so much further, not because of the clubhead. Look at your smash factor with the titleist, it's actually higher meaning a hotter face (assuming quality of strike is the same). The reason it didn't fly as far is clearly clubhead speed.

 

There is something I need to mention. I need to preface this with the fact that this is my opinion only. Why do we all care about hitting any iron the farthest? Is that what makes a better iron player? Last summer when I did a fitting with Cool Clubs all the guy wanted to talk about was how much distance I would gain by switching heads from my blades. All I kept telling him was, "I don't care how far I hit it, consistency in distance is all that matters." We're all different and it might matter to you but IMHO the only thing that should matter when fitting yourself for irons in regards to distance is the consistency of the distance you hit them and how well your gapping between clubs is.

 

The things you should care about are your launch angles, peak height, spin rates, how it fits your eye and (to me underratedly) how well the club gets through the turf. You talk about how much better the MP5 is on the numbers but I'm also hearing a lot of talk about how comfortable (or not) you are with them. If you're not comfortable that tiny bit better the numbers appeared (which in my opinion are not better) won't matter anyway. Remember this, when you're 200 yards out in the fairway and need to make par, what do you think matters more at that time, the confidence you have in the club in your hand or the 3% better numbers you appear to get with them?

 

Sorry, I'll get off my soap box now.

 

On that note, who does everyone's club work for them around here?

 

av1084, I mentioned a guy a few pages ago that does REALLY good work. His name is Buddy Beam out of Striker Golf. As I said in the previous post when I spoke to the current PGA Colorado Section champ about fitting he told me "nobody touches my clubs except for Buddy." I have a few other friends that go to him also and the attention to detail is second to none.

 

Thanks Joel! Will be checking him out ASAP. Appreciate it - sorry I missed it earlier!

 

No need to apologize man. We're all just trying to help each other get better! I hope he can help for you.

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There are more things I can think of that I didn't mention, the biggest being feel, but I got sick of editing my post, LOL.

 

I apologize if I offended anyone but the distance obsession when it comes to irons has been driving me nuts for years. Great iron players don't hit 6 irons 220, they just hit the same distance every time.

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Question on spin - should I be concerned with the low spin I was getting with the Mizuno's paired with the S400? I was averaging roughly 5,000rpms with them, while I had a more optimal spin rate with the Titleist 716CB's, albeit with a better smash factor and AoA. It's hard for me to question the yardage performance of the Mizuno's overall though. And I would assume the spin rate would increase as I improve my AoA, right? Am I becoming too nit-picky here???

 

 

Tharr, those are all with a 6 iron correct? From what it looks like to me, yes your spin is too low. However, as you said your AoA isn't as steep and therefore would spin it less. From what I can see, the low spin and your clubhead speed are the reason why it's flying so much further, not because of the clubhead. Look at your smash factor with the titleist, it's actually higher meaning a hotter face (assuming quality of strike is the same). The reason it didn't fly as far is clearly clubhead speed.

 

Correct, with a 6i. And I agree with your assessment of the Titleist. But the club just didn't feel as good to me overall...at least I think lol.

 

There is something I need to mention. I need to preface this with the fact that this is my opinion only. Why do we all care about hitting any iron the farthest? Is that what makes a better iron player? Last summer when I did a fitting with Cool Clubs all the guy wanted to talk about was how much distance I would gain by switching heads from my blades. All I kept telling him was, "I don't care how far I hit it, consistency in distance is all that matters." We're all different and it might matter to you but IMHO the only thing that should matter when fitting yourself for irons in regards to distance is the consistency of the distance you hit them and how well your gapping between clubs is.

 

Very valid point, and I agree. I feel my accuracy was still probably the best of the clubs, but they were all pretty decent.

 

The things you should care about are your launch angles, peak height, spin rates, how it fits your eye and (to me underratedly) how well the club gets through the turf. You talk about how much better the MP5 is on the numbers but I'm also hearing a lot of talk about how comfortable (or not) you are with them. If you're not comfortable that tiny bit better the numbers appeared (which in my opinion are not better) won't matter anyway. Remember this, when you're 200 yards out in the fairway and need to make par, what do you think matters more at that time, the confidence you have in the club in your hand or the 3% better numbers you appear to get with them

 

Undoubtedly, I'm fairly a newb when it comes to this type of data. The MP-25's and MP-5's had very similar performance numbers overall, while the Titleist 716's had a slightly higher launch angle (17.5* to 15.3*) , higher spin rate (~5500 to ~5000), and higher peak (101ft to 90ft). What is optimal here?

 

And I feel like I have a pretty decent swing, so confidence standing over the ball isn't really an issue with any of these clubs.

 

Sorry, I'll get off my soap box now.

 

I really appreciate the input. Sometimes when we get too much in the weeds, you need someone to pull you out so you can see the bigger picture.

 

Maybe they'll let me come back in and hit these clubs again for 30 minutes so I can get a second opinion, so to speak.

 

Cobra LTDx LS - Oban Kiyoshi HB-65
Cobra F8 4w - Tour AD IZ-7s
Cobra 4h - SmacWrap 780 ES x
Cobra Forged Tec Black - AMT x100
Titleist Vokey 50/54/58 SM9
Edel E-1

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Question on spin - should I be concerned with the low spin I was getting with the Mizuno's paired with the S400? I was averaging roughly 5,000rpms with them, while I had a more optimal spin rate with the Titleist 716CB's, albeit with a better smash factor and AoA. It's hard for me to question the yardage performance of the Mizuno's overall though. And I would assume the spin rate would increase as I improve my AoA, right? Am I becoming too nit-picky here???

 

 

Tharr, those are all with a 6 iron correct? From what it looks like to me, yes your spin is too low. However, as you said your AoA isn't as steep and therefore would spin it less. From what I can see, the low spin and your clubhead speed are the reason why it's flying so much further, not because of the clubhead. Look at your smash factor with the titleist, it's actually higher meaning a hotter face (assuming quality of strike is the same). The reason it didn't fly as far is clearly clubhead speed.

 

Correct, with a 6i. And I agree with your assessment of the Titleist. But the club just didn't feel as good to me overall...at least I think lol.

 

Feel is something that I didn't mention and is wayyy underrated also. In order to have confidence you need a club that you like the feel of. If it doesn't feel right to you then I wouldn't buy it, plain and simple.

 

There is something I need to mention. I need to preface this with the fact that this is my opinion only. Why do we all care about hitting any iron the farthest? Is that what makes a better iron player? Last summer when I did a fitting with Cool Clubs all the guy wanted to talk about was how much distance I would gain by switching heads from my blades. All I kept telling him was, "I don't care how far I hit it, consistency in distance is all that matters." We're all different and it might matter to you but IMHO the only thing that should matter when fitting yourself for irons in regards to distance is the consistency of the distance you hit them and how well your gapping between clubs is.

 

Very valid point, and I agree. I feel my accuracy was still probably the best of the clubs, but they were all pretty decent.

 

Based on the dispersion above the MP-5 looks like it has the second worst (biggest circle) to me. Sure, it's more covering the middle, it's the overall size of the circle which determines dispersion. From what I'm seeing without being there it's clear the only reason the circle is in the middle are the swings you made with that club. Look at your face to path with the MP-5, that averages to dead straight shots all day, while the other two you clearly had a slight draw swing.

 

The things you should care about are your launch angles, peak height, spin rates, how it fits your eye and (to me underratedly) how well the club gets through the turf. You talk about how much better the MP5 is on the numbers but I'm also hearing a lot of talk about how comfortable (or not) you are with them. If you're not comfortable that tiny bit better the numbers appeared (which in my opinion are not better) won't matter anyway. Remember this, when you're 200 yards out in the fairway and need to make par, what do you think matters more at that time, the confidence you have in the club in your hand or the 3% better numbers you appear to get with them

 

Undoubtedly, I'm fairly a newb when it comes to this type of data. The MP-25's and MP-5's had very similar performance numbers overall, while the Titleist 716's had a slightly higher launch angle (17.5* to 15.3*) , higher spin rate (~5500 to ~5000), and higher peak (101ft to 90ft). What is optimal here?

 

This is where things get more sticky. Sure plenty of people will quote you "optimal" numbers. However, this is a DEEPLY personal thing. Based on the numbers I'm seeing you're more of a sweeper of the golf ball that clearly has a draw bias. Based on that I would assume (since we've never met) is that you have trouble with run-out. The ball will tend to come off lower with less spin, hurting your stopping power on mid to long irons a lot. If that's true for you then in your shoes I would have one goal, hitting the ball higher with more spin. Generally you want those spin rates to be about 1000x the club, or about 6,000 rpm for a 6i.

 

This leads me to say that again, the Titleist looks like the best numbers I'm seeing for you.

 

And I feel like I have a pretty decent swing, so confidence standing over the ball isn't really an issue with any of these clubs.

 

That's good, it just sounded like a lot of doubt that the MP-5 might be too much club for you based on previous posts.

 

Sorry, I'll get off my soap box now.

 

I really appreciate the input. Sometimes when we get too much in the weeds, you need someone to pull you out so you can see the bigger picture.

 

Maybe they'll let me come back in and hit these clubs again for 30 minutes so I can get a second opinion, so to speak.

 

 

I just have to follow up with a couple things. I hope you hit some balls outside because it's really hard to know if the flight of the ball fits your eye when hitting into a net. I made assumptions based on the numbers from 1 fitting session so if I'm wrong about your tendencies then that changes the whole dynamic.

 

Again, if those numbers were my tendency I would be going into the fitting with one goal, to optimize my spin rates and launch angles in order to maximize stopping power on the greens without compromising distance.

 

For the rest of you with fittings coming up please heed my warning. Think about what your tendencies are and what you're trying to accomplish with an equipment change. We're all different and if you go in there without thinking about these things you'll end up with bad advice.

 

To summarize: Thaar, if I was your fitter the last club I would want in your hands based on these numbers is the lowest launching, lowest spinning club. Sure, it goes farther, but if that means 20 yards of run-out is that what you want?! It's pretty hard to hit greens that way. If I was doing your fitting I would recommend the highest launching, highest spinning club to maximise stopping power. However, feel and overall how much you like the club really matters also.

 

This illustrates to me exactly what I've heard Mark Crossfield talk about so many times. Your best fitter is typically going to be your instructor because he knows your tendencies and your misses (if all of them had the CC equipment selection).

 

I hope this helps! Lets keep this going because I feel it's so monumentally important. Even if you hate my advice, I'd love to hear why.

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BTW: I'm a perfect example of the complete opposite of what I recommended for thaar.

 

My stock shot is a cut and my tendencies are over-spinning and hitting the ball too high. Therefore my goal when getting fitted is to bring my spin down to the correct range and also bring my flight down a touch.

 

The point is that everyone is different and in order to be best served with equipment we all need to know our golf game and what we're trying to do.

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I definitely appreciate your advice! Lots of good stuff to consider. I wish I had some of this info before my fitting lol, but it's a learning process.

 

You're right that I am mostly a sweeper with a draw bias (sometimes I have a hard time controlling it - a lot of that has happened since last season while going through a swing change), so it would make more sense to look for something with higher spin. I think I was too focused on ball speed and distance while finding the center line during my fitting.

 

I feel like I need to go back and hit some on my own, if they'll let me, to help determine what club works best for me now. And I haven't had a chance to hit them outside yet, but I plan on figuring out a way to do so.

Cobra LTDx LS - Oban Kiyoshi HB-65
Cobra F8 4w - Tour AD IZ-7s
Cobra 4h - SmacWrap 780 ES x
Cobra Forged Tec Black - AMT x100
Titleist Vokey 50/54/58 SM9
Edel E-1

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Oh man, you won't believe how happy it makes me that I was able to help a little bit. :happy:

 

If CC is really worth their salt they should let you back in and you should be able to have a frank, open discussion about this stuff. I mean, you still have to go in for other fittings anyway. If they don't want to let you in just use your leverage a little bit in saying "how am I supposed to buy that set you recommended when I now think it's the worst head for me?" That should help

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I just want to say that I've enjoyed the conversations going on in this thread.

 

I regret not getting the half-price fitting, but I feel that my swing is so inconsistent that a fitting would just confuse the issue even more. I do feel that I could use an extra 1/4" on my clubs to help reduce my raging draw, which would then probably move me to red dots, but that is just a hunch.

 

I just wish I had time to hit the range.

Live in Colorado? Visit Colorado WRX!

Ping G410 LST 9° Ventus Black 7X

Callaway Apex Pro 2H 18° MMT 80 HB XS
Ping S55 3-PW DG X100 (orange dot)
Ping Glide 52°, 56° (orange dot)

Ping Glide 4.0 60° (orange dot)
Odyssey Works Big T V-Line CS 33.5"
Front Range Golf Club (frgclub.com)

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Tharr, those are all with a 6 iron correct? From what it looks like to me, yes your spin is too low. However, as you said your AoA isn't as steep and therefore would spin it less. From what I can see, the low spin and your clubhead speed are the reason why it's flying so much further, not because of the clubhead. Look at your smash factor with the titleist, it's actually higher meaning a hotter face (assuming quality of strike is the same). The reason it didn't fly as far is clearly clubhead speed.

 

There is something I need to mention. I need to preface this with the fact that this is my opinion only. Why do we all care about hitting any iron the farthest? Is that what makes a better iron player? Last summer when I did a fitting with Cool Clubs all the guy wanted to talk about was how much distance I would gain by switching heads from my blades. All I kept telling him was, "I don't care how far I hit it, consistency in distance is all that matters." We're all different and it might matter to you but IMHO the only thing that should matter when fitting yourself for irons in regards to distance is the consistency of the distance you hit them and how well your gapping between clubs is.

 

The things you should care about are your launch angles, peak height, spin rates, how it fits your eye and (to me underratedly) how well the club gets through the turf. You talk about how much better the MP5 is on the numbers but I'm also hearing a lot of talk about how comfortable (or not) you are with them. If you're not comfortable that tiny bit better the numbers appeared (which in my opinion are not better) won't matter anyway. Remember this, when you're 200 yards out in the fairway and need to make par, what do you think matters more at that time, the confidence you have in the club in your hand or the 3% better numbers you appear to get with them?

 

Sorry, I'll get off my soap box now.

 

 

 

As I mentioned earlier, I'm getting fit for the first time ever, and I'm also just starting to get familiar with all the data around a golf swing...spin rates, smash factors, etc. Your posts and this discussion have been invaluable for me as I think about what I want to get from this fitting, so thank you! My usual shot is a slight fade and I get my irons pretty high, so I'll be curious to see what the numbers show. I don't have an issue holding balls on the green (when I actually hit them!) so I'll definitely keep that in mind versus just looking at the potential distance gains. I think I definitely would have been caught up in the distance numbers only without this discussion.

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Since the beginning of the year, I've been recording at least one swing per round, typically on a Par 3. Just for fun, and I like watching my own swing. I noticed with the two videos from this weekend, my backswing is only about 80-90%. I don't know if that's a recent development, or something I've just never noticed.

 

#17 at Broken Tee

 

FweYiH6.gif

 

6-iron from about 180. Hit super behind the ball, and chunked it about 125 yards. Almost made it up and down from 50-odd yards out, but lipped out on my par putt.

 

#7 at Todd Creek

 

pUN7fxX.gif

 

9-iron from 135. Perfect distance, pin high...just about 10 feet off the right hand side of the green. Wasn't able to get up and down for par.

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Thaar - hypothetical question. If I'm fit into the JPX 900 driver would it make sense to have CC built it so it will carry the lifetime guarantee OR will there be an additional charge for CC to build them.

 

I split my fitting sessions. First is 21 Mar at 11 and again 23 Mar at 4. Can't wait!

 

Does the lifetime guarantee really matter? Do you think it's any better than what Mizzy would offer? For me, I don't think the lifetime guarantee would matter.

 

There are certain shaft manufacturers that will only deal with fitters, and not manufacturers. I believe Oban is one of them. If you end up getting fit into one of those shafts, I'd weigh the options comparing ebay/BST/etc and paying someone to build it for you. I think in the end though, CC will end up being quite a bit more expensive. I imagine you'll pay full price for the club with stock shaft, then add the upgraded shaft to it.

 

Again, you don't have to pull the trigger right then and there.

 

I wasn't referring to the guarantee on the club/shaft but the fitting. According to their website, if the club doesn't preform like expected I can go back to them for a re-adjustment so to speak. Apologize for making myself clearer in my initial post.

Mizuno JPX900 EvoIII S (weights center channel port 1 & 2)
Mizuno GT190 Atmos Blue 6S
Mizuno CLK 19* Speeder EVO HB S
Titleist 4i AMT S300
Mizuno JPX 900 Forged 5-G KBS Tour
Mizuno S18 54.8/58.8
Carbon Ringo 1/4
Balls : 2017 ProV1x / KSig / Vice Pro+
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I'm on board wtih ASak10. The information in this thread is going to be invaluable when it comes fitting time and I thank all of you.

Mizuno JPX900 EvoIII S (weights center channel port 1 & 2)
Mizuno GT190 Atmos Blue 6S
Mizuno CLK 19* Speeder EVO HB S
Titleist 4i AMT S300
Mizuno JPX 900 Forged 5-G KBS Tour
Mizuno S18 54.8/58.8
Carbon Ringo 1/4
Balls : 2017 ProV1x / KSig / Vice Pro+
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I'm on board wtih ASak10. The information in this thread is going to be invaluable when it comes fitting time and I thank all of you.

 

Definitely! Feel free to reach out anytime. To echo some sentiments earlier, I guess I also didn't make it clear that I have learned very quickly not just to trust numbers, or at least, put all your eggs in one basket regarding numbers alone. That's why I didn't make any rash decisions after the fitting. I'm going to actually take those recommendations and test outside to make sure that not only the numbers look good, but that the shot shape fits my eye, is controllable, etc.

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Thaar - hypothetical question. If I'm fit into the JPX 900 driver would it make sense to have CC built it so it will carry the lifetime guarantee OR will there be an additional charge for CC to build them.

 

I split my fitting sessions. First is 21 Mar at 11 and again 23 Mar at 4. Can't wait!

 

Does the lifetime guarantee really matter? Do you think it's any better than what Mizzy would offer? For me, I don't think the lifetime guarantee would matter.

 

There are certain shaft manufacturers that will only deal with fitters, and not manufacturers. I believe Oban is one of them. If you end up getting fit into one of those shafts, I'd weigh the options comparing ebay/BST/etc and paying someone to build it for you. I think in the end though, CC will end up being quite a bit more expensive. I imagine you'll pay full price for the club with stock shaft, then add the upgraded shaft to it.

 

Again, you don't have to pull the trigger right then and there.

 

I wasn't referring to the guarantee on the club/shaft but the fitting. According to their website, if the club doesn't preform like expected I can go back to them for a re-adjustment so to speak. Apologize for making myself clearer in my initial post.

 

Makes sense, my bad. I'd be interested in what their "re-adjustment" includes.

Cobra LTDx LS - Oban Kiyoshi HB-65
Cobra F8 4w - Tour AD IZ-7s
Cobra 4h - SmacWrap 780 ES x
Cobra Forged Tec Black - AMT x100
Titleist Vokey 50/54/58 SM9
Edel E-1

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So after thinking about this further - is it likely the shaft that is giving me lower spin numbers, or the head? Or a combination of both?

 

I shot a note to my fitter asking him for the trackman data from hitting the C-Tapers and Project X LZ too so I can get a sense of their performance.

Cobra LTDx LS - Oban Kiyoshi HB-65
Cobra F8 4w - Tour AD IZ-7s
Cobra 4h - SmacWrap 780 ES x
Cobra Forged Tec Black - AMT x100
Titleist Vokey 50/54/58 SM9
Edel E-1

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So after thinking about this further - is it likely the shaft that is giving me lower spin numbers, or the head? Or a combination of both?

 

I shot a note to my fitter asking him for the trackman data from hitting the C-Tapers and Project X LZ too so I can get a sense of their performance.

 

I would say the literal combination of both - in the sense that a shaft could lower spin compared to a different shaft - but in two different heads, you may go down from (6 iron) 6900 to 6400, or 6300 to 5900. Does that make sense? Meaning the shaft alone could accomplish the lowering of spin but in a different head, the results could be wildly different.

 

What did you think of the PX LZ? That was a pleasant surprise to me. I really didn't even know anything about it prior the fitting.

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Yeah, the LZ was new to me as well. All three shafts felt pretty similar to me overall - C-Taper 120's (maybe 125's...can't recall for sure), Project X LZ, and S400 Tour. If I had to pick one based on feel alone, it probably would have been the C-Taper...maybe lol. They were all really similar to me, and I wouldn't complain to have any of them in my bag.

 

I think there was too much focus on ball speed during this portion of my fitting, as the S400 was the only shaft that was able to produce ball speeds over 130mph. IIRC, the highest I got with the other shafts was 127mph. It's not like I'm really hurting for distance overall, so I wish I had known what I know now to do a better evaluation of the shafts.

Cobra LTDx LS - Oban Kiyoshi HB-65
Cobra F8 4w - Tour AD IZ-7s
Cobra 4h - SmacWrap 780 ES x
Cobra Forged Tec Black - AMT x100
Titleist Vokey 50/54/58 SM9
Edel E-1

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I tried the LZ and Modus105s when looking at the JPX900Forged and really liked both. Albeit I only hit them very briefly and don't recall the numbers. Because I've had tendinitis in my right elbow, I went with recoil 95s. I think it was a mistake as my iron play has become very inconsistent since. Iron play was never my strength but would rate it as a solid B (for my game overall). Currently I would put it in the C/C- range (hit <50% of greens). So I played yesterday with my old irons with KBS Tour 120s and was back to the B level of iron play (hit 70% of the greens). I'm not sure if the shaft is just too light or what. I know 25g is only 5 nickles but maybe it's just that I'm used to the 120s. Talked to my wife about swapping them and she suggested that I should wait until after my fitting (the voice of reason). Can an iron shaft be too light?

Mizuno JPX900 EvoIII S (weights center channel port 1 & 2)
Mizuno GT190 Atmos Blue 6S
Mizuno CLK 19* Speeder EVO HB S
Titleist 4i AMT S300
Mizuno JPX 900 Forged 5-G KBS Tour
Mizuno S18 54.8/58.8
Carbon Ringo 1/4
Balls : 2017 ProV1x / KSig / Vice Pro+
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