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Maltby DBM/MMB/TE Forged Question


jasonp87

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Based on your note above, I would think the dynalite xp shaft option would be less than the xp95/nippon option.

 

Tell them you want the SCORE option with xp dynalitte shafts. Difference in shafts cost is approx. $9

and therein lies my debacle. after 8 clubs, I'm looking at an additional $72 added to the pack price.. that puts me around the level of the next pack up at which point I could then just choose one of the shafts that I'm really after. I guess all of this shaft talk is secondary to my original question however.. MMB-Blk or DBM? :)
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Based on your note above, I would think the dynalite xp shaft option would be less than the xp95/nippon option.

 

Tell them you want the SCORE option with xp dynalitte shafts. Difference in shafts cost is approx. $9

and therein lies my debacle. after 8 clubs, I'm looking at an additional $72 added to the pack price.. that puts me around the level of the next pack up at which point I could then just choose one of the shafts that I'm really after. I guess all of this shaft talk is secondary to my original question however.. MMB-Blk or DBM? :)

 

I've been fitting for a long time, and I don't know of a single 14 handicap that can handle blades. In fact I don't know many 5 handicaps that can handle blades all that well on a day to day basis. I don't care if they are the most forgiving blade ever made, do yourself a favour and get the DBM. A little forgiveness never hurt anyone.

Taylormade R510TP - Speeder 757 Sonartec NP-99 14* and 17* - NV Green 85 Nickent Genex 3DX 21* - Dynamic Gold SL Titleist 660 4-P - Dynamic Gold Cleveland 54* and 59* - Dynamic Gold Scotty Cameron Teryllium

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Ok,, I have to throw in my $.02.

I gamed the DBM for almost two seasons and they served me very well. As for the sole being so wide you can see it at address? Not unless I threw my head to the right to see it. Never even entered my mind. It does have a robust sole as it has such a low COG. Thin top line makes them seem more compact than they are..

 

My issue was the with the very low COG I was losing some shots high right, if I got a little late or lazy with my swing it seemed to just float out right. But that was all me..

 

Enter the MMB-17 in chrome. Bought a few head to tinker and right away the difference in dispersion was readily evident. Once comfortable with the irons though weaker in loft I was routinely hitting the MMB-17 longer and stopping quicker.

The DBM is very forging and you can hit it all over the face and still get that soft feel and not be punished horribly. With the MMB-17 when hit off center they get clicky, but are still not super punishing but they let you know it wasn't your best strike. Hit it flush and it's pure bliss. This feed back was helping me mid round make minor adjustments and staying sharper. In head to head match ups I was giving myself much better scoring opportunities with the MMB-17.

 

Long story short I have a set of MMB Blacks waiting the house to be assembled. For me the black finish is a must,,, as well as the MMB-17 head. As hard as I wanted the DBMs to stay in the bag it wasn't much of a contest.

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Based on your note above, I would think the dynalite xp shaft option would be less than the xp95/nippon option.

 

Tell them you want the SCORE option with xp dynalitte shafts. Difference in shafts cost is approx. $9

and therein lies my debacle. after 8 clubs, I'm looking at an additional $72 added to the pack price.. that puts me around the level of the next pack up at which point I could then just choose one of the shafts that I'm really after. I guess all of this shaft talk is secondary to my original question however.. MMB-Blk or DBM? :)

 

I've been fitting for a long time, and I don't know of a single 14 handicap that can handle blades. In fact I don't know many 5 handicaps that can handle blades all that well on a day to day basis. I don't care if they are the most forgiving blade ever made, do yourself a favour and get the DBM. A little forgiveness never hurt anyone.

how familiar are you with the Maltby Lineup?
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Ok,, I have to throw in my $.02.

I gamed the DBM for almost two seasons and they served me very well. As for the sole being so wide you can see it at address? Not unless I threw my head to the right to see it. Never even entered my mind. It does have a robust sole as it has such a low COG. Thin top line makes them seem more compact than they are..

 

My issue was the with the very low COG I was losing some shots high right, if I got a little late or lazy with my swing it seemed to just float out right. But that was all me..

 

Enter the MMB-17 in chrome. Bought a few head to tinker and right away the difference in dispersion was readily evident. Once comfortable with the irons though weaker in loft I was routinely hitting the MMB-17 longer and stopping quicker.

The DBM is very forging and you can hit it all over the face and still get that soft feel and not be punished horribly. With the MMB-17 when hit off center they get clicky, but are still not super punishing but they let you know it wasn't your best strike. Hit it flush and it's pure bliss. This feed back was helping me mid round make minor adjustments and staying sharper. In head to head match ups I was giving myself much better scoring opportunities with the MMB-17.

 

Long story short I have a set of MMB Blacks waiting the house to be assembled. For me the black finish is a must,,, as well as the MMB-17 head. As hard as I wanted the DBMs to stay in the bag it wasn't much of a contest.

For me, getting the ball up in the air has never been an issue. If anything, I could use to bring my trajectory down a little which is what really attracts me to the MMB's. I've spent the last few months rifling through all of the club fitting lineup at PGATSS and have really found that I can hit a smaller club consistently and not lose any distance from my GI's. I just love the ability to shot shape with much less effort than my GI's and start to play the game that it's meant to be played.
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Ok,, I have to throw in my $.02.

I gamed the DBM for almost two seasons and they served me very well. As for the sole being so wide you can see it at address? Not unless I threw my head to the right to see it. Never even entered my mind. It does have a robust sole as it has such a low COG. Thin top line makes them seem more compact than they are..

 

My issue was the with the very low COG I was losing some shots high right, if I got a little late or lazy with my swing it seemed to just float out right. But that was all me..

 

Enter the MMB-17 in chrome. Bought a few head to tinker and right away the difference in dispersion was readily evident. Once comfortable with the irons though weaker in loft I was routinely hitting the MMB-17 longer and stopping quicker.

The DBM is very forging and you can hit it all over the face and still get that soft feel and not be punished horribly. With the MMB-17 when hit off center they get clicky, but are still not super punishing but they let you know it wasn't your best strike. Hit it flush and it's pure bliss. This feed back was helping me mid round make minor adjustments and staying sharper. In head to head match ups I was giving myself much better scoring opportunities with the MMB-17.

 

Long story short I have a set of MMB Blacks waiting the house to be assembled. For me the black finish is a must,,, as well as the MMB-17 head. As hard as I wanted the DBMs to stay in the bag it wasn't much of a contest.

For me, getting the ball up in the air has never been an issue. If anything, I could use to bring my trajectory down a little which is what really attracts me to the MMB's. I've spent the last few months rifling through all of the club fitting lineup at PGATSS and have really found that I can hit a smaller club consistently and not lose any distance from my GI's. I just love the ability to shot shape with much less effort than my GI's and start to play the game that it's meant to be played.
I really think either model MMB will make you happy.
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Based on your note above, I would think the dynalite xp shaft option would be less than the xp95/nippon option.

 

Tell them you want the SCORE option with xp dynalitte shafts. Difference in shafts cost is approx. $9

and therein lies my debacle. after 8 clubs, I'm looking at an additional $72 added to the pack price.. that puts me around the level of the next pack up at which point I could then just choose one of the shafts that I'm really after. I guess all of this shaft talk is secondary to my original question however.. MMB-Blk or DBM? :)

 

I've been fitting for a long time, and I don't know of a single 14 handicap that can handle blades. In fact I don't know many 5 handicaps that can handle blades all that well on a day to day basis. I don't care if they are the most forgiving blade ever made, do yourself a favour and get the DBM. A little forgiveness never hurt anyone.

how familiar are you with the Maltby Lineup?

 

To be honest, I'm really not. However, I know golf clubs like the back of my hand. There are 10000% some people who hit blades or smaller-soled irons better than thicker ones. Where the issue come in is not sole width, it's sweet spot size. The perfect sweet spot zone is a heck of a lot smaller on a blade than it is on a GI club, and marginally smaller than it is on a CB. You may be the exception to the rule, but most players who are shooting 85 on their best day (a 14 handicap by definition) does not hit the middle of the golf club consistently enough to get the benefit of the control and shot shape workability a blade has to offer.

 

Now I know everyone is different, and you could work every day at the range until your hands bleed, but even a lot of tour guys are switching to CBs, such as P750, AP2, CBs, Z765, etc. If the best players in the world want some more forgiveness I don't see why we shouldn't either.

Taylormade R510TP - Speeder 757 Sonartec NP-99 14* and 17* - NV Green 85 Nickent Genex 3DX 21* - Dynamic Gold SL Titleist 660 4-P - Dynamic Gold Cleveland 54* and 59* - Dynamic Gold Scotty Cameron Teryllium

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Based on your note above, I would think the dynalite xp shaft option would be less than the xp95/nippon option.

 

Tell them you want the SCORE option with xp dynalitte shafts. Difference in shafts cost is approx. $9

and therein lies my debacle. after 8 clubs, I'm looking at an additional $72 added to the pack price.. that puts me around the level of the next pack up at which point I could then just choose one of the shafts that I'm really after. I guess all of this shaft talk is secondary to my original question however.. MMB-Blk or DBM? :)

 

I've been fitting for a long time, and I don't know of a single 14 handicap that can handle blades. In fact I don't know many 5 handicaps that can handle blades all that well on a day to day basis. I don't care if they are the most forgiving blade ever made, do yourself a favour and get the DBM. A little forgiveness never hurt anyone.

how familiar are you with the Maltby Lineup?

 

To be honest, I'm really not. However, I know golf clubs like the back of my hand. There are 10000% some people who hit blades or smaller-soled irons better than thicker ones. Where the issue come in is not sole width, it's sweet spot size. The perfect sweet spot zone is a heck of a lot smaller on a blade than it is on a GI club, and marginally smaller than it is on a CB. You may be the exception to the rule, but most players who are shooting 85 on their best day (a 14 handicap by definition) does not hit the middle of the golf club consistently enough to get the benefit of the control and shot shape workability a blade has to offer.

 

Now I know everyone is different, and you could work every day at the range until your hands bleed, but even a lot of tour guys are switching to CBs, such as P750, AP2, CBs, Z765, etc. If the best players in the world want some more forgiveness I don't see why we shouldn't either.

So I guess I would self-proclaim to be part of the exception.. however, Maltby has a pretty interesting system that many refer to known as the "Playability Factor" https://www.golfwork...-ratings/a/870/ Some treat this like the Bible, others use as a general reference. Ralph Maltby probably sits up there with Tom Wishon as an ex "big box" designer/builder ultra-knowledgeable equipment guru. The Playability factor chart is updated with pretty much every iron ever made by most big and small manufacturers. How he has the time to keep up with all of this is beyond me but the fact that he created a tangible formula by which to compare the "playability" (ease of use) factors for all of these clubs is quite amazing. According to the Maltby Playability scale, even the bladiest forged offerings from Maltby rate in the category of Game Improvement in terms of forgiveness and playability based on their MOI, COG, and other important characteristics. So in essence, while I'm seeking after a better player's club, the Maltby collection seems to be something that I should be able to handle without getting into too much trouble or regret. I wouldn't make a move like this without being 100% certain that it's what I want to do. Hopefully this helps :)
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So I guess I would self-proclaim to be part of the exception.. however, Maltby has a pretty interesting system that many refer to known as the "Playability Factor" https://www.golfwork...-ratings/a/870/ Some treat this like the Bible, others use as a general reference. Ralph Maltby probably sits up there with Tom Wishon as an ex "big box" designer/builder ultra-knowledgeable equipment guru. The Playability factor chart is updated with pretty much every iron ever made by most big and small manufacturers. How he has the time to keep up with all of this is beyond me but the fact that he created a tangible formula by which to compare the "playability" (ease of use) factors for all of these clubs is quite amazing. According to the Maltby Playability scale, even the bladiest forged offerings from Maltby rate in the category of Game Improvement in terms of forgiveness and playability based on their MOI, COG, and other important characteristics. So in essence, while I'm seeking after a better player's club, the Maltby collection seems to be something that I should be able to handle without getting into too much trouble or regret. I wouldn't make a move like this without being 100% certain that it's what I want to do. Hopefully this helps :)

 

Good luck to you then and I hope they help lower your scores.

Taylormade R510TP - Speeder 757 Sonartec NP-99 14* and 17* - NV Green 85 Nickent Genex 3DX 21* - Dynamic Gold SL Titleist 660 4-P - Dynamic Gold Cleveland 54* and 59* - Dynamic Gold Scotty Cameron Teryllium

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Supposed to be some more new models later this year too. I haven’t hit MMB, DBM, or PTM-but was planning to build a set of DBM this winter. Ended up reshafting my current irons instead-but if I hadn’t, I would wait to see what else is coming. If purchasing now-I’d go DBM.

unfortunately the words "wait" and "patience" are not in my vocabulary range
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Based on your note above, I would think the dynalite xp shaft option would be less than the xp95/nippon option.

 

Tell them you want the SCORE option with xp dynalitte shafts. Difference in shafts cost is approx. $9

and therein lies my debacle. after 8 clubs, I'm looking at an additional $72 added to the pack price.. that puts me around the level of the next pack up at which point I could then just choose one of the shafts that I'm really after. I guess all of this shaft talk is secondary to my original question however.. MMB-Blk or DBM? :)

 

I've been fitting for a long time, and I don't know of a single 14 handicap that can handle blades. In fact I don't know many 5 handicaps that can handle blades all that well on a day to day basis. I don't care if they are the most forgiving blade ever made, do yourself a favour and get the DBM. A little forgiveness never hurt anyone.

how familiar are you with the Maltby Lineup?

 

To be honest, I'm really not. However, I know golf clubs like the back of my hand. There are 10000% some people who hit blades or smaller-soled irons better than thicker ones. Where the issue come in is not sole width, it's sweet spot size. The perfect sweet spot zone is a heck of a lot smaller on a blade than it is on a GI club, and marginally smaller than it is on a CB. You may be the exception to the rule, but most players who are shooting 85 on their best day (a 14 handicap by definition) does not hit the middle of the golf club consistently enough to get the benefit of the control and shot shape workability a blade has to offer.

 

Now I know everyone is different, and you could work every day at the range until your hands bleed, but even a lot of tour guys are switching to CBs, such as P750, AP2, CBs, Z765, etc. If the best players in the world want some more forgiveness I don't see why we shouldn't either.

I would agree with you whole heartedly on a blade, but the MMB is a CB GI iron hiding in a blade profile. Most purists wouldn't even piss on an MMB. It's way more forgiving than it looks and that exactly how it was built. It's oversized, has a thicker top line, the 'muscle back' is concave and had tungsten in the longer irons. The whole set is progressive. His results may vary but I play far far better with those irons. But I'm well below a 14 hp.

 

Switching to a real blade??,, no I don't recommend it.

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You sound just like me. Almost had to check my account settings to see if this was me posting about my indecisiveness as no willingness to pull the trigger. While I still haven’t decided on the head( MMB, DBM, or PTM) I am trying to figure out the shaft issue first. I was set on the SCORE as I hit a buddies with DBM and it felt better and flew better than his KBS 105 for me. He is the one that talked me in to DBM and Maltby to begin with. The problem was just after 20 balls or so my tennis elbow was crippling again. I’m def moving in to a graphite set. My problem is I have to go with a heavier graphite such as 95,105 or 110. No less and no more. Been looking at Fujikura Pro Series in 95, recoil in 95 or 110 or Steelfiber in 95. Not sure which direction to go there.

 

 

But alas, the DBM feel good. I have a 7i I made last year with xcalibur steel fiber shaft and I really like it. The looks of the MMB keeps drawing me in as a 9 HC but I don’t want to make that mistake and get something that I can’t play.

 

 

Just be forewarned, Popeye is a 3 HC so MMB is nothing for him like it could be for you and I.

Driver: Callaway Paradym Triple Diamond 8*, Tensei AV White 75g
Irons: TaylorMade P790, 5-PW; Mitsubishi MMT 110g
Hybrids: Ping G425 19*
Wedges: Ping Glide 3.0 50*, 54*, 60*
Putter: L.A.B. Directed Force 2.1, Polar BGT shaft   
Bag: Ping Hoofer Lite Midnight
Ball: Bridgestone Tour B X yellow, Callaway Chrome Soft X LS

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You can't see the sole at address on the DBM/TE's. not sure who suggested that....the soles would have to be super wide to see at address. Others have suggested they are wide, I suppose it's relative to what you are used to.....if you come from playing tiny blades with narrow soles then these will appear wide. Come from playing ping g,s or some other clunky looking sgi iron, these will look moderate. Truth is they are middle of the road for sole width. They look good at address.

 

I also currently have an MMB and PFT 8i to demo. There really isn't much difference in how the MMB and TE/DBM look at address, blade length and sole width slightly longer and wider for the TE/DBM.....when you look at the cavity then there is noticable difference in the look as one is a CB and the other a blade/MB, but you won't see that at address. The main diff between nthe two is the cog, and the ball flight of the TE/DBM being higher than that of the MMB.

 

Re the TT Score shaft, it's a decent shaft if the weight and profile fit you but I would not stray far from what works for you re weight and profile just to save money, bad idea IMO, it's the same shaft as the Dynalite 109, step pattern is the same. Some more info on shaft from GW tech forum fro Britt Lindsey-

 

http://ralphmaltby.com/forum/question/tt-score-lt-vs-tt-dynalite-gold-xp/

 

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I do not have a 4i in a DBM but cannot imagine based off my 7i DBM that you could see the back of the sole at address.

 

They look very PING I20 sole wise to me (width)

Driver: Callaway Paradym Triple Diamond 8*, Tensei AV White 75g
Irons: TaylorMade P790, 5-PW; Mitsubishi MMT 110g
Hybrids: Ping G425 19*
Wedges: Ping Glide 3.0 50*, 54*, 60*
Putter: L.A.B. Directed Force 2.1, Polar BGT shaft   
Bag: Ping Hoofer Lite Midnight
Ball: Bridgestone Tour B X yellow, Callaway Chrome Soft X LS

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So just to give a frame of reference here, I hit some new mizuno mp-18 mmc's tonight with the Nippon ns pro950 shaft which is the shaft that I'm sold on. Specs are somewhat comparable to the mmb's.. Possibly a little on the less forgiving/smaller side. Give or take. Loft is also a tad stronger in the mizunos by about 3*. As you can see from the data, I'm not having any issues hitting a smaller, less forgiving club. Now these clubs were 1* upright from stock which I feel is about 1* too flat for me and about .5" short (I'm 6' 3"). Based on this info, would you recommend the mmb's or should I stick to my GI shovels? Now I know that fake conditions can yield fake results but at least out of 20 or so shots, you can see that I've got some decent level of consistency. This is a 6 iron btw so not the easiest in the lineup. Thanks for all of the help!

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I have the DBM's and love them. The sole is not wide. I previously gamed the Mizuno MX-200 (for nearly 10 years straight), IMHO the best forged GI iron ever!! The sole on the DBM's is no where near as wide as the Mizuno's and it is every bit as forgiving. At address I can see the back of the cavity in the Mizuno's on the longer irons and it has never worried me - inspires confidence if anything.

 

I have never hit the MMB's but from what I have read the DBM's have the edge in forgiveness across the whole face which is what attracted me to them. My miss is off the toe, the MX-200's always gave me good results from a mishit out of the toe - that's why I gamed them for so long, I could never find anything better. The DBM's are just as forgiving on my miss.

 

Some pics to compare sizes:

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You sound just like me. Almost had to check my account settings to see if this was me posting about my indecisiveness as no willingness to pull the trigger. While I still haven’t decided on the head( MMB, DBM, or PTM) I am trying to figure out the shaft issue first. I was set on the SCORE as I hit a buddies with DBM and it felt better and flew better than his KBS 105 for me. He is the one that talked me in to DBM and Maltby to begin with. The problem was just after 20 balls or so my tennis elbow was crippling again. I’m def moving in to a graphite set. My problem is I have to go with a heavier graphite such as 95,105 or 110. No less and no more. Been looking at Fujikura Pro Series in 95, recoil in 95 or 110 or Steelfiber in 95. Not sure which direction to go there.

 

 

But alas, the DBM feel good. I have a 7i I made last year with xcalibur steel fiber shaft and I really like it. The looks of the MMB keeps drawing me in as a 9 HC but I don’t want to make that mistake and get something that I can’t play.

 

 

Just be forewarned, Popeye is a 3 HC so MMB is nothing for him like it could be for you and I.

wow we sound even more alike with our bum elbows. At one point I thought I was dunzo with golf. I consulted a good friend that's a PTA and he recommended KT (kinetic therapy) tape. I believe it's around $8 at wally world and you get about a month's worth of tape. The pro version is great because it's water and sweat proof and can be worn for a couple days at a time. It works much better than those compression wraps or sleaves because it stretches with your movement and is very lightweight. Call it mental voodoo or actual medical help but I swear it cured my tennis/golf elbow. You can YouTube videos on specific golf elbow applications. There are a few variations. I just wore the stuff constantly for about a month and was completely healed. My elbow still gets a little stiff on occasion but nothing remotely as debilitating as it was.

 

Have you looked at the TT XP95 or Nippon ns pro 9505th? After the recent posts supporting the DBM's and pics from sneaky_pete I think I'm back on the DBM train again. I'm probably going to pair it with the Nippon NS 950 because of the DBM's higher flight characteristics and the nippons mid trajectory they sound like a good pairing. I'll be placing the order today!

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I am always very hesitant to give any advice to someone on what irons to put in their bag, so I will tell you what I think will help you make a decision. I have the TE Forged, (very similar to DBM) and a set of the first issue of the MMB's. I have no problem hitting either one. I prefer the TE because I feel that they are just a tad bit more forgiving, and it's an iron that I could control/flight the ball better.

The MMB's will give you a little lower ball flight. As Popeye mentioned in a post earlier, these blades are very forgiving and are made for players of all levels to play. It is not the same as, say a true Titleist or Mizuno blade, that has a very small sweet spot.

 

I really don't think you can go wrong with either. I just choose to play the TE because I believe it's the best forged cavity back made today. And, I think it feels just a little better coming off the club face than the MMB.

 

Good luck!



 

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My set of MMB Blacks showed up today and to get a grasp of how the long irons are made,,, and why they are so easy to hit I took some pics. Though it is a muscle back style it has a bunch of GI built in. Looking dead at the toe you see how the back of the iron has a lot of weight down low. It's built almost like a cavity back. It has some tugsten out towards the toe too. Plus it has a decent blade length and the top line is thick for a blade. Hard core blades are not built like this. They remain forgiving but give a ton of precise performance. Feedback tells you just where you hit it. These can be played by the guys who need that forgiveness but Really want the sexiness of a blade. Should everybody play these,, hell no. But a lot of guys could.

These are also truly progressive as they morph into a true blade style as it gets to the 9i and G.

I find these more precise than the DBM and I actually hit the 4 and 5 iron better with the MMB than the DBM.

The lofts are traditional and since I don't need distance help they really fit my gap needs well.

 

I have some of the prototype shafts in the Blacks and I'll get some dats on them compared to my gamer Nippon 950GH shafts. I have those in the standard MMB-17 which are the chrome ones.

 

Btw pics do not do the iron justice,, at all. It's the best looking head I have ever seen. They are nice in chrome, but Black is flat out gorgeous.c5ae11980540f64a84eb0f439d5e736e.jpg3b3520ec01012fe29365fa548142b8a8.jpg4168b9bab410e7463820724dfc3da48a.jpgdeb0acb51f3e0f00ffa6cca1e52a9d73.jpg

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Damn they look good.

 

I gotta find a graphite shafts and then move on these. Will recoils and Steelfiber go in these ?

Driver: Callaway Paradym Triple Diamond 8*, Tensei AV White 75g
Irons: TaylorMade P790, 5-PW; Mitsubishi MMT 110g
Hybrids: Ping G425 19*
Wedges: Ping Glide 3.0 50*, 54*, 60*
Putter: L.A.B. Directed Force 2.1, Polar BGT shaft   
Bag: Ping Hoofer Lite Midnight
Ball: Bridgestone Tour B X yellow, Callaway Chrome Soft X LS

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Based on your note above, I would think the dynalite xp shaft option would be less than the xp95/nippon option.

 

Tell them you want the SCORE option with xp dynalitte shafts. Difference in shafts cost is approx. $9

and therein lies my debacle. after 8 clubs, I'm looking at an additional $72 added to the pack price.. that puts me around the level of the next pack up at which point I could then just choose one of the shafts that I'm really after. I guess all of this shaft talk is secondary to my original question however.. MMB-Blk or DBM? :)

 

I've been fitting for a long time, and I don't know of a single 14 handicap that can handle blades. In fact I don't know many 5 handicaps that can handle blades all that well on a day to day basis. I don't care if they are the most forgiving blade ever made, do yourself a favour and get the DBM. A little forgiveness never hurt anyone.

how familiar are you with the Maltby Lineup?

 

To be honest, I'm really not. However, I know golf clubs like the back of my hand. There are 10000% some people who hit blades or smaller-soled irons better than thicker ones. Where the issue come in is not sole width, it's sweet spot size. The perfect sweet spot zone is a heck of a lot smaller on a blade than it is on a GI club, and marginally smaller than it is on a CB. You may be the exception to the rule, but most players who are shooting 85 on their best day (a 14 handicap by definition) does not hit the middle of the golf club consistently enough to get the benefit of the control and shot shape workability a blade has to offer.

 

Now I know everyone is different, and you could work every day at the range until your hands bleed, but even a lot of tour guys are switching to CBs, such as P750, AP2, CBs, Z765, etc. If the best players in the world want some more forgiveness I don't see why we shouldn't either.

 

I think there is some terminology that is getting mixed up here. The cog/sweet spot is basically the size of a pin head on every single golf club, no matter the size of the club or wood... the location changes but the size of the sweet spot never changes. Moi and face flex are what make clubs more forgiving than others. The more moi/face flex throughout the clubface, the more consistent the distance will be as you move outward from the cog/sweet spot.

 

We have a lot of golf professionals on this site so please chime in if you feel this is inaccurate, but im fairly certain this is how to properly access a club's forgiveness yes?

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My set of MMB Blacks showed up today and to get a grasp of how the long irons are made,,, and why they are so easy to hit I took some pics. Though it is a muscle back style it has a bunch of GI built in. Looking dead at the toe you see how the back of the iron has a lot of weight down low. It's built almost like a cavity back. It has some tugsten out towards the toe too. Plus it has a decent blade length and the top line is thick for a blade. Hard core blades are not built like this. They remain forgiving but give a ton of precise performance. Feedback tells you just where you hit it. These can be played by the guys who need that forgiveness but Really want the sexiness of a blade. Should everybody play these,, hell no. But a lot of guys could.

These are also truly progressive as they morph into a true blade style as it gets to the 9i and G.

I find these more precise than the DBM and I actually hit the 4 and 5 iron better with the MMB than the DBM.

The lofts are traditional and since I don't need distance help they really fit my gap needs well.

 

I have some of the prototype shafts in the Blacks and I'll get some dats on them compared to my gamer Nippon 950GH shafts. I have those in the standard MMB-17 which are the chrome ones.

 

Btw pics do not do the iron justice,, at all. It's the best looking head I have ever seen. They are nice in chrome, but Black is flat out gorgeous.c5ae11980540f64a84eb0f439d5e736e.jpg3b3520ec01012fe29365fa548142b8a8.jpg4168b9bab410e7463820724dfc3da48a.jpgdeb0acb51f3e0f00ffa6cca1e52a9d73.jpg

those really are some beauties. You're really not making my decision any easier I think I'm still set on pulling the trigger on the DBM's. I just really love their unassuming simplicity, and I think they may be the more logical choice for someone entering the forged "player" club arena coming from the GI club side of the fence. I'm not to concerned about the lower irons being more difficult as I might use a 5 iron once in a round and 4 iron maybe once in 10 rounds. I too am having them built with the Nippon NS 950 S flex. Just love that shaft and it really let's you feel the club head. Also thinking of going with blue Pure wraps. And I may get a little fancy with some metallic silver paint fill in the numbers. I'll be officially placing my order tomorrow. Hopefully I'll get the set in time for my birthday in late March. Always interested in more reviews and pics of the MMB-blk for future reference. Cheers!
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