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Maltby TS2


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35 minutes ago, ericft said:

Played again today. Now hit my low round 75 of the past 1.5 years. Getting so comfortable with the ts4 glad I got the 4 iron as well as feel better than the ts1M. Also liking the tsw drm wedges. Now interested in the putters anyone with experience/builds of the ptm CS or regular hosel or any of the other putters? Thoughts on feel and stability ?

I have a Moment X Tour putter that I built as a broomstick putter and it's amazing. Fantastic putter and extremely stable. 

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19 minutes ago, ericft said:

Sounds intriguing. What shaft from Golfworks did you use? Is it the grey head? Any pics? Lie angle?

It's the red X Tour, not the grey X. I got the pak, had it bent to 79° lie angle, installed the plastic long putter extension, which brought it to 45.5", and put the Wynn broomstick putter grip on it. 

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Relating to weighting within spec. I finally asked if I could get a lighter KE4 Max PW head as the one I have is 291, stock is listed at 290g +/-3g including the 8g weight. Someone there looked through all their heads and everything was 290-292g, that's pretty tight weighting. Unfortunately for me I was hoping for ~287-288g including the weight.

Driver: Sim OG 8* (-2g), Diamana ZF 40x

3wood: Sim Ti Rocket @13*, Aldila NV Green 55x

5wood: Sim Ti @18*, Aldila NV Green 55x

4i-GW: Ke4 Max (-8g), SMT Bassara 65x +1"

SW: CBX2 52*, Rotex Precision 90g wedge flex

LW: Tour Grind MG 60*

P: 2013 Scotty Cameron Newport Black, Pistolero

Grips: Lamkin Crossline 58r Standard

Ball: TP5X 2019/2024

 

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11 minutes ago, enfuego said:

Relating to weighting within spec. I finally asked if I could get a lighter KE4 Max PW head as the one I have is 291, stock is listed at 290g +/-3g including the 8g weight. Someone there looked through all their heads and everything was 290-292g, that's pretty tight weighting. Unfortunately for me I was hoping for ~287-288g including the weight.

Exactly my point. They usually have very tight tolerances on weights. 

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15 minutes ago, 4dgolf said:

just got my ts1 single iron. Was built an inch short of standard length (I asked for standard length). What’s the best way to go about fixing this?

Contact Golfworks. This would be unacceptable IMO. 

 

Shaft extensions are easy and cheap but require know-how, tools, and scrapping the grip that's on there. That's not cool 

 

Also, are you measuring with a club ruler? 1" is a huge discrepancy that shouldn't have gone out. 🤦🏼‍♂️

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Serious question, how does one determine which head to pick out of all the new options from Maltby?
I have a set of Accra iCWT 95 graphite shafts coming, and don’t know what to put them in. 
I’m 61, 7 iron swing speed is around 78 mph, I do not hit the ball very high or generate a lot of spin. 30* player’s distance irons do not work well with spin, peak height, or decent angle. 
So I think that rules out the KE4 Max.
Right now I’m playing a set of old Callaway FT irons. The 7 iron is 33*. They are ok, a little long in blade length. Graphite shafts are light at 75 grams. 
I have a set of MMB Black’s. I could play them but I’m only comfortable playing them up to the 7 iron. I like forgiveness. I have combo’ed them in the past with 5 and 6 Cleveland TA5 irons, they have the same lofts as the Blacks. I do dig a little with the Black’s on partial shots. They have a pretty sharp leading edge. Did shoot my lowest round ever with them….
I don’t like the constant offset in the TE+ irons, I’ve tried the DBM’s. I like a little more offset. And with the DBM’s, the ball went high and looked like it spun a lot. Lost a lot of distance. 
I played my best golf, and had them in the bag the longest, with a set of Titleist 712 AP1’s. 
CDim 1.436  VCOG .768  MOI 13.5295

I’m thinking the TS3 would be the best match? 
 

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55 minutes ago, AZstu324 said:

Contact Golfworks. This would be unacceptable IMO. 

 

Shaft extensions are easy and cheap but require know-how, tools, and scrapping the grip that's on there. That's not cool 

 

Also, are you measuring with a club ruler? 1" is a huge discrepancy that shouldn't have gone out. 🤦🏼‍♂️

I was just using a regular measuring tape. I measured a 5 and 7 (from a separate order) and the 9 all the same way from the butt end of the grip. The 9 definitely seems to be a full inch short of the 36” while the 7 and 5 seem normal. 
 

just wanted to make sure I was not overreacting. I will be contacting golfworks on Monday and see what they can do . 

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Several elements of my order were back ordered until May at the earliest. I just canceled the whole thing and will buy something on the secondary market instead. Was trying to build a set of STi2 irons and TSW wedges as a birthday present for a buddy playing some very old clubs. For them to let me order something in March that they apparently knew wouldn’t be in stock until at least May, and not alert me of that fact at the time, is unacceptable. I like the clubs but I’ll just buy them used or go with older models from an OEM.

Edited by mynameisntshawn
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52 minutes ago, Sparkey67 said:

A Question.  The attached pic is after 5 shots.  I'm more than happy with the consistency but wondering if a shaft change ( length or flex ) could help move more strike location out towards the middle.  BTW, this is a TS3 8 iron and is carrying about 135.

 

IMG_20240414_090811691.jpg.81daa39722f9c36a4a2c8da7499e8bbc.jpg

Of course there could be a number of suggestions. A few of which could be technical, and others mental mumbo jumbo that actually works. 

 

Technical 

 

Spend $30 and get them lie checked at a golf shop. IMO this is a must after ordering a set of clubs like this. Too flat and you might be set up further away than you're used to. Too upright and you might be standing too close. 

 

Try to determine if your swing might actually need some mechanical corrections. New weight, feeling, etc and it might be throwing you out of sync. Might just take some adjustment time. Sometimes the way you rotate, or don't, can help you find the center more consistently. 

 

Question 

 

Is the shaft you have heavier, lighter, +/- flex than your previous? I'd note this as a small contributor but not necessarily the fix-all

 

Mental mumbo jumbo 

 

Try setting up with the ball more towards the hosel or where your strike pattern shows. Mentally you'll stand taller through the shot and actually square the club out of reaction. (Worked for my wedges when I was having a situation) 

 

Or

 

Do the opposite. This might actually promote more movement towards the hosel though. 

 

 

These are just a few quick suggestions I'm throwing out off the cuff. There could definitely be more helpful suggestions on the way. 

 

 

 

 

 

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Hey gang, so im looking for a solid graphite shaft option for a 72 yr old with arthritis and neuropathy (my dad). Considering the 60-70 g range. He's currently playing he TT Elevate 90g R flex. I'm almost wondering if this shaft is just a little too much for him to handle. I know often times "budget friendly" and good performance can be hard to align but sometimes it's definitely a possibility.

 

I'm considering the M890 in A flex OR the Kuro Kage 2nd gen also in A flex. 

 

If anybody has any experience or input on these 2 or can give another sub $20 suggestion, I'd greatly appreciate it. 

 

Ultimately I'm just looking for something smooth, stable, and higher launch to help him get the ball in the air a little easier. 

 

Thanks! 

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2 minutes ago, Southside Seminole said:

Here’s a ke4 max putter I built. 3.5” plumbers neck w/ the black stability shaft. Feels great. I removed all the paint fill for a cleaner look:

IMG_1343.jpeg

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Looks sick! How did you choose the long plumbers neck? Does it make it face balanced? Is the sound of the face muted like spider insert or clicky like a milled putter?

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5 minutes ago, Southside Seminole said:

Here’s a ke4 max putter I built. 3.5” plumbers neck w/ the black stability shaft. Feels great. I removed all the paint fill for a cleaner look:

IMG_1343.jpeg

IMG_1344.jpeg

IMG_1345.jpeg

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I might have to demand that you give this one a new name with a "dark side" theme. 

 

"The Vader"

Or

"Death Star " 

 

That looks pretty friggin sweet! 

 

 

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Just now, ericft said:

Looks sick! How did you choose the long plumbers neck? Does it make it face balanced? Is the sound of the face muted like spider insert or clicky like a milled putter?

I wanted a Cam young style crank neck mallet. Totally muted, doesn’t click at all. I’m not sure if it’s face balanced. 
 

I also built a gray version w/ the PTM-4 plumbers neck. Same thing just with the gray aluminum stability shaft they offer.

 

Ive been building clubs in my garage for years & just recently stumbled upon the Maltby brand. I already had an account with golfworks.com from buying supplies lol. I never considered or knew they sold component clubs, but I’ve been very pleased with both putters so far! The value they offer is awesome. 

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5 minutes ago, Southside Seminole said:

I wanted a Cam young style crank neck mallet. Totally muted, doesn’t click at all. I’m not sure if it’s face balanced. 
 

I also built a gray version w/ the PTM-4 plumbers neck. Same thing just with the gray aluminum stability shaft they offer.

 

Ive been building clubs in my garage for years & just recently stumbled upon the Maltby brand. I already had an account with golfworks.com from buying supplies lol. I never considered or knew they sold component clubs, but I’ve been very pleased with both putters so far! The value they offer is awesome. 

It’s a joy to buy components and build clubs that play and feel better or as good as OEM stuff twice or more expensive.  Love my ts-4 irons now and wedges now need a putter to match. Please post pic of the grey version showing face/sole and neck conversion. Getting some ideas to figure out what to build. 

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10 minutes ago, ericft said:

It’s a joy to buy components and build clubs that play and feel better or as good as OEM stuff twice or more expensive.  Love my ts-4 irons now and wedges now need a putter to match. Please post pic of the grey version showing face/sole and neck conversion. Getting some ideas to figure out what to build. 

Here you go, and the mallet is face balanced as you can see.

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IMG_1354.jpeg

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48 minutes ago, Southside Seminole said:

Here’s a ke4 max putter I built. 3.5” plumbers neck w/ the black stability shaft. Feels great. I removed all the paint fill for a cleaner look:

IMG_1343.jpeg

IMG_1344.jpeg

IMG_1345.jpeg

IMG_1346.jpeg

IMG_1347.jpeg

IMG_1348.jpeg

 

That looks nice!! How did you remove the paint?  No issues on the rest of the head when removing the paint?

Maltby KE4 TC Max UST V2 HL Stiff
Callaway Rogue 3W Synergy 60

Maltby KE4 Tour TC 19*, 22* Matrix HX3 White Tie
Taylormade Burner TP Japan Issue 5-PW C-Taper Lite Stiff

Titleist SM7 52*/S, 58*/D DG120 Stiff
<Searching>

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 I'm still oving the KE4 Max.  It was paired with a MPF Pro and was really accurate but wanted to try  something with a little more kick so I put in one of the Taylormade Ascent shafts from Ebay ($29).  Definitely more kick and I have to be careful to not get quick from the top (my tendency) but boy does this combo launch when I'm patient.

 

 

 

IMG_5244.jpeg

IMG_5245.jpeg

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Maltby KE4 TC Max UST V2 HL Stiff
Callaway Rogue 3W Synergy 60

Maltby KE4 Tour TC 19*, 22* Matrix HX3 White Tie
Taylormade Burner TP Japan Issue 5-PW C-Taper Lite Stiff

Titleist SM7 52*/S, 58*/D DG120 Stiff
<Searching>

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19 hours ago, Sparkey67 said:

A Question.  The attached pic is after 5 shots.  I'm more than happy with the consistency but wondering if a shaft change ( length or flex ) could help move more strike location out towards the middle.  BTW, this is a TS3 8 iron and is carrying about 135.

 

IMG_20240414_090811691.jpg.81daa39722f9c36a4a2c8da7499e8bbc.jpg

That contact is showing that the iron is too upright. Flattening the lie is the way i would tackle this. 

Technically a shorter shaft could help move the strike towards the toe. As well as a more upright, standing taller golf swing. 

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On 4/13/2024 at 8:17 PM, gdb99 said:

Serious question, how does one determine which head to pick out of all the new options from Maltby?
I have a set of Accra iCWT 95 graphite shafts coming, and don’t know what to put them in. 
I’m 61, 7 iron swing speed is around 78 mph, I do not hit the ball very high or generate a lot of spin. 30* player’s distance irons do not work well with spin, peak height, or decent angle. 
So I think that rules out the KE4 Max.
Right now I’m playing a set of old Callaway FT irons. The 7 iron is 33*. They are ok, a little long in blade length. Graphite shafts are light at 75 grams. 
I have a set of MMB Black’s. I could play them but I’m only comfortable playing them up to the 7 iron. I like forgiveness. I have combo’ed them in the past with 5 and 6 Cleveland TA5 irons, they have the same lofts as the Blacks. I do dig a little with the Black’s on partial shots. They have a pretty sharp leading edge. Did shoot my lowest round ever with them….
I don’t like the constant offset in the TE+ irons, I’ve tried the DBM’s. I like a little more offset. And with the DBM’s, the ball went high and looked like it spun a lot. Lost a lot of distance. 
I played my best golf, and had them in the bag the longest, with a set of Titleist 712 AP1’s. 
CDim 1.436  VCOG .768  MOI 13.5295

I’m thinking the TS3 would be the best match? 
 


There are a lot of club fitting questions and variables that can be relevant.  Don’t rule out the Max yet.

 

What kind of sole do you like?

More bounce or less?

Bigger or smaller head?

What shaft weight will you be using?

 

To the last point, I’ve been using a 64 gram shaft.  With Maltby heads, I get normal swing weights with a 37.5 inch 7 iron.  In fact I have to add weight to get there.  So that’s really a 6 iron weight, loft, and length, but with a 7 on the bottom.  My point is, it’s a 6 iron!  With the height, spin, and distance of a 6 iron.  So look at the 34° club (8 iron) to compare with your FT 7 iron.  
 

Additionally, you can buy the Max heads with lighter weights.  So even if you are using heavy shafts, you could end up with the same math as above.

 

Maltby super game improvement heads hit high.  It’s their DNA.  Maybe try a Max as a test club.  Next best is probably the TS3.  I’d avoid the hollow clubs because you are a low spin player.

 

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M4 Driver
4, 7, 9 woods

5, 6 Adams hybrids
7-GW Maltby irons
54 & 58º Wedges
LAB Mezz.1 box stock
 
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2 hours ago, ChaosTheory said:


There are a lot of club fitting questions and variables that can be relevant.  Don’t rule out the Max yet.

 

What kind of sole do you like?

More bounce or less?

Bigger or smaller head?

What shaft weight will you be using?

 

To the last point, I’ve been using a 64 gram shaft.  With Maltby heads, I get normal swing weights with a 37.5 inch 7 iron.  In fact I have to add weight to get there.  So that’s really a 6 iron weight, loft, and length, but with a 7 on the bottom.  My point is, it’s a 6 iron!  With the height, spin, and distance of a 6 iron.  So look at the 34° club (8 iron) to compare with your FT 7 iron.  
 

Additionally, you can buy the Max heads with lighter weights.  So even if you are using heavy shafts, you could end up with the same math as above.

 

Maltby super game improvement heads hit high.  It’s their DNA.  Maybe try a Max as a test club.  Next best is probably the TS3.  I’d avoid the hollow clubs because you are a low spin player.

 

I have in the past played bigger heads. AP1, X14, X20, etc. I think I will order a TS3 and a Max 7 iron head.

I bought a set of ACCRA iCWT 95 gram stiff flex iron shafts. I will be soft stepping them once or twice.

I do like the idea of the Max head, just make them like you suggested. 7 iron as my 6 iron. The 26* 6 iron is the least loft I would want to play anyway, so that will be my 5 iron @ 38".

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