Maltby TS2

[flyingwedges2]

On 7/3/2018 at 11:09 AM, Popeye64 said:

Here is a side by side of the TS2 on the left and an MMB-17 which is identical to the Black. In the 6 irons bounce is the same. As they get higher in loft the bounce increases, the Blacks don't. Holding the black next to it just doesnt show the difference due to it being a flat black. I find I am getting through the ball very well with a minor divot. I tend to get steep into the ball and take quite a divot. The TS2 is not a club I have hit fat at all.

An issue with nearly every iron from GolfWorks, is the general lack of sole bounce.  They are very similar to irons from 30 years ago in that regard. I do like the minimal offset heads that are available.

Edited February 14, 2022 by flyingwedges2

[Cwebb]

8 minutes ago, flyingwedges2 said:

An issue with nearly every iron from GolfWorks, is the general lack of sole bounce.  They are very similar to irons from 30 years ago in that regard. I do like the minimal offset heads that are available.

 

They've had many iron designs in the last decade+ that have more effective bounce, then the actual spec bounce might indicate

[ThinkingPlus]

23 minutes ago, flyingwedges2 said:

An issue with nearly every iron from GolfWorks, is the general lack of sole bounce.  They are very similar to irons from 30 years ago in that regard. I do like the minimal offset heads that are available.

That's one of the reasons I like Maltby and the TS1s.  Minimal bounce.

[flyingwedges2]

1 hour ago, Cwebb said:

 

They've had many iron designs in the last decade+ that have more effective bounce, then the actual spec bounce might indicate

Which heads, specifically, and how would  they have  more 'effective' bounce?

[flyingwedges2]

1 hour ago, ThinkingPlus said:

That's one of the reasons I like Maltby and the TS1s.  Minimal bounce.

In south TX with rock hard ground, a lack of bounce is beneficial. Up north, not so much.

[ThinkingPlus]

5 minutes ago, flyingwedges2 said:

In south TX with rock hard ground, a lack of bounce is beneficial. Up north, not so much.

Agree.  I would likely choose differently if I played soft and lush conditions.  Certainly would change my wedge setup.

[Cwebb]

2 hours ago, flyingwedges2 said:

Which heads, specifically, and how would  they have  more 'effective' bounce?

 

A good example is the new "max" iron pic that was posted on the previous page in this thread.  Just looking at the sole from that side ground view, it has more "effective bounce" than the stated spec of "3* bounce" might indicate.  In other words, more effective bounce than a narrower, less cambered sole.  Effective bounce combines everything, including sole width, leading edge radius, sole radius, and most importantly leading edge height

[flyingwedges2]

1 hour ago, Cwebb said:

 

A good example is the new "max" iron pic that was posted on the previous page in this thread.  Just looking at the sole from that side ground view, it has more "effective bounce" than the stated spec of "3* bounce" might indicate.  In other words, more effective bounce than a narrower, less cambered sole.  Effective bounce combines everything, including sole width, leading edge radius, sole radius, and most importantly leading edge height

No, that sole is designed for the person who throws it from the top.  It's why I refer to as 'fake bounce and is horrible to play with.  Works OK in bunkers, so not well on turf.  That isn't a player's club bounce.

[Colej]

7 hours ago, flyingwedges2 said:

No, that sole is designed for the person who throws it from the top.  It's why I refer to as 'fake bounce and is horrible to play with.  Works OK in bunkers, so not well on turf.  That isn't a player's club bounce.

From the KE4 max web page

 

• 4 way radiused sole design with progressive bounce angles and sole widths to provide optimal turf interaction from a variety of turf conditions.

[Popeye64]

7 hours ago, flyingwedges2 said:

No, that sole is designed for the person who throws it from the top.  It's why I refer to as 'fake bounce and is horrible to play with.  Works OK in bunkers, so not well on turf.  That isn't a player's club bounce.

I certainly agree with you on the lack of a 'players' bounce in past models like the MMB-17 and even the DBM/TE. Also the Tour MG wedges. But the new 4 way sole is a sole design that might rival Srixon. It's as turf friendly as anything on the market. 

Before they went to this sole a digger would seriously struggle. If i was playing in country club prostine turf i did very well with the early designs. Ball then turf leaving a good size but clean divot. The kind that perfectly goes back into place. 

 Now nearly any of the designs do so well is soft conditions yet will also work in hard pan. 

Take if from one of the worst diggers in the North East. 

[ode]

22 hours ago, Cwebb said:

 

A good example is the new "max" iron pic that was posted on the previous page in this thread.  Just looking at the sole from that side ground view, it has more "effective bounce" than the stated spec of "3* bounce" might indicate.  In other words, more effective bounce than a narrower, less cambered sole.  Effective bounce combines everything, including sole width, leading edge radius, sole radius, and most importantly leading edge height

Same with the STi2 and TS2.....the bounce spec gave me the heebie-jeebies, but they are both worked quite well for me as I get steep.  The rocker sole (as someone else has referred to it) really works well.  The TE forged, MMB....have virtually no relief on the sole/ sharp leading edge = No bueno.  Miles difference between the designs but similar bounce spec!

Edited February 15, 2022 by ode

[Cwebb]

16 hours ago, flyingwedges2 said:

No, that sole is designed for the person who throws it from the top.  It's why I refer to as 'fake bounce and is horrible to play with.  Works OK in bunkers, so not well on turf.  That isn't a player's club bounce.

I've never heard of "players bounce" or "fake bounce". 

 

Every iron/wedge has what is known as "effective bounce", whether lower or higher.  A good example is in the Vokey wedges, where the 'K' design has a wider sole and more radius, which increases it's effective bounce more than the measured spec bounce would indicate.  I have a gauge that measures this and found that the Vokey 'K' that was stated to have 8* of bounce, actually has about the same "effective bounce" as the Vokey 'F' design that is stamped with 14* bounce.

 

However, a wide sole isn't the case at all with the Maltby Max iron.  Surprisingly, the specs actually indicate that it has the narrowest sole width in the Maltby line of irons, at .740".  The TS-1 is .755" and the TE and DBM are .781".

 

With that in mind, what are you seeing that you would refer to as "fake bounce"?

[Therty]

I agree with Popeye here, the TS-1 and TS-2 have some of the best soles of an iron ive played in a long time - friendly in a lot of turfs for a lot of different players.

[flyingwedges2]

23 hours ago, Cwebb said:

I've never heard of "players bounce" or "fake bounce". 

 

Every iron/wedge has what is known as "effective bounce", whether lower or higher.  A good example is in the Vokey wedges, where the 'K' design has a wider sole and more radius, which increases it's effective bounce more than the measured spec bounce would indicate.  I have a gauge that measures this and found that the Vokey 'K' that was stated to have 8* of bounce, actually has about the same "effective bounce" as the Vokey 'F' design that is stamped with 14* bounce.

 

However, a wide sole isn't the case at all with the Maltby Max iron.  Surprisingly, the specs actually indicate that it has the narrowest sole width in the Maltby line of irons, at .740".  The TS-1 is .755" and the TE and DBM are .781".

 

With that in mind, what are you seeing that you would refer to as "fake bounce"?

are you referring to this:  https://www.golfworks.com/tommy-armour-845-max-iron-set/p/tasi008/  

Ultra-wide sole design

 

Titleist and Callaway have said for a long time, the so called bounce listed on the club is not the actual bounce of the sole.  

 

Always remember that offset has an effect on effective bounce. I've never had a Vokey in play, so I can't vouch for how they play.  That said, how a club plays is dependent upon leading edge (square vs rounded), heel relief, toe relief, blunt or sharp leading edge, width of sole (face to back), offset, shaft lean at address, shaft lean at impact, turf conditions, angle of attack, training edge relief, etc.  I always ground my own until about 10 years ago when Callaway had good offerings.  I still grind specific stuff for others. Look at the difference between a Vokey and Edel and you have to wonder who has the right ideas. FWIW, I've never ground a club for anyone who isn't a low single digit handicap who I have not personally watched hit a variety of shots under 20 yards. I tell nearly everyone to go to a wedge day at the local public course and find what they like.

 

[flyingwedges2]

On 2/14/2022 at 7:12 AM, Popeye64 said:

I certainly agree with you on the lack of a 'players' bounce in past models like the MMB-17 and even the DBM/TE. Also the Tour MG wedges. But the new 4 way sole is a sole design that might rival Srixon. It's as turf friendly as anything on the market. 

Before they went to this sole a digger would seriously struggle. If i was playing in country club prostine turf i did very well with the early designs. Ball then turf leaving a good size but clean divot. The kind that perfectly goes back into place. 

 Now nearly any of the designs do so well is soft conditions yet will also work in hard pan. 

Take if from one of the worst diggers in the North East. 

TSW and MG wedges look to have good sole grinds with minimal offset. Only wish I could see them in person. However, I have 9 backups to my Callaway 56, and 7 to my Callaway 60, each with a slightly different shaft-some old Rifle Spinner 4.5, 5.5, KBS HiRev, and a couple of Aerotech 110s.  I have enough until I get hit by the proverbial bus  🙂

[Cwebb]

10 minutes ago, flyingwedges2 said:

are you referring to this:  https://www.golfworks.com/tommy-armour-845-max-iron-set/p/tasi008/  

Ultra-wide sole design

 

Titleist and Callaway have said for a long time, the so called bounce listed on the club is not the actual bounce of the sole.  

 

Always remember that offset has an effect on effective bounce.

This is the new iron design that was posted in this thread and the one I've been referring to...

https://www.golfworks.com/maltby-ke4-max-iron-heads/p/ma0337/

 

Titleist and Callaway said that, because they want more players to become aware of effective bounce.  Which I've always agreed with and is what I posted about in this thread, where many of the Maltby iron designs have more effective bounce than what their listed spec bounce might indicate.

 

Can you explain how offset has an effect on effective bounce?  I've never heard of this

 

[Popeye64]

Shot of the sole designs on the Max Milled wedges. 

Both of these can certainly trace their heritage to the MSeries +. Both designs should be friendlier than the TSW that can give some players trouble with fat shots. 

I had embraced the versatile nature of the M Series+, super forgiving yet pulled off all the shots I needed.  So I'm really looking forward to these heads. They should have a softer feel than the DBM M Series+. Plus for you wedge benders they can be adjusted. Will be nice to be able to dial in swing weight too in those changeable weights.  

Looks like another home run desgn. 

Edited February 17, 2022 by Popeye64

[Popeye64]

Spoke with Britt today, hoping to get some early Max Milled wedges to test. Says they may be 2 to 3 weeks out. 

I have a new prototype 110g Spinwedge shaft to test. Would have been the perfect head to do so with. 

I guess I'll have to use a TSW. I have a few that can be used for mule work. 

[Cwebb]

Jim Y at the Golfworks, posted that the new max wedges can be played with the weights removed, if looking to get the head weight a little lighter

[AutomationGolfer]

No standard pack on the Max wedges yet or am I just not seeing it?

[Popeye64]

While talking with Britt it was hard not to feel his excitement about the upcoming  iron designs. But particularly the TS4. Britt is a very accomplished player, a blade style is certainly his cup of tea and his design passion. 

But Britt has always chased that elusive super playable blade that has the sexy miniscule sweet spot 'look'  yet played with forgiveness and feel. 

I spoke that my ideal would be an MMB-17 with the new sole design of current models. Britt admitted that the MMB-17 sole wasn't quite what he wanted and was fairly aggressive. The new TS4 has a Milled sole to capture the design he wanted. 

He says that the new TS4 may be that elusive design he has always searched for. Those just right looks for a top player combined with playability us normal hacks need. Of course it won't be a design for everyone but might be a design that can be played by quite a few. 

He was also more than excited about two new driver heads and Fairways to boot. Should be a great year or so for the Maltby faithful. With many new players joining in.....

 

[Colej]

4 hours ago, AutomationGolfer said:

No standard pack on the Max wedges yet or am I just not seeing it?

May not be setup yet. Once they get closer to coming to stock they’ll likely be put in?

[blarkin97]

@Popeye64 Putting some new shafts in my PTM Blacks.  Do I have to use the collared ferrule?  It says that is the ferrule to use but I have read about the ferrules pushing up because of the collar and I had some issues with that myself the first time I built them up

 

Can I just get a regular ferrule and the epoxy will fill in any gaps?  I don't have the tools to do any ferrule turning either though

Edited February 24, 2022 by blarkin97

[kjbuckeye]

1 minute ago, blarkin97 said:

@Popeye64 Putting some new shafts in my PTM Blacks.  Do I have to use the collared ferrule?  It says that is the ferrule to use but I have read about the ferrules pushing up because of the collar and I had some issues with that myself the first time I built them up

 

Can I just get a regular ferrule and the epoxy will fill in any gaps?

No need to use a collared ferrule. 

[Popeye64]

3 minutes ago, blarkin97 said:

@Popeye64 Putting some new shafts in my PTM Blacks.  Do I have to use the collared ferrule?  It says that is the ferrule to use but I have read about the ferrules pushing up because of the collar and I had some issues with that myself the first time I built them up

 

Can I just get a regular ferrule and the epoxy will fill in any gaps?  I don't have the tools to do any ferrule turning either though

Any ferrule will be fine. There is a trick to getting those collared ferruls to sit right. You have to rotate the head a few times to get that layer of epoxy off the mating surfaces. Even then one sneaks by every so often. 

[blarkin97]

3 minutes ago, kjbuckeye said:

No need to use a collared ferrule. 

Looks like 90ti is the closest one and its unavailable of course.  Wonder if I could buy the collared ones and just sand off the collar to avoid the issue since the OD matches perfect for PTMs

[Tupperwolf]

Yes you could.  Or use a razor blade and slice it off.

[blarkin97]

Do you usually epoxy the ferrule on as well or just push the ferrule against the head with epoxy and that is enough to keep it in the right place?  First time I put some epoxy underneath the ferrule as well

 

My irons have held up fine even with some of them creeping up so I don't know if what I did was wrong but I'm by no means an expert club builder......................yet

Edited February 24, 2022 by blarkin97

[kjbuckeye]

25 minutes ago, blarkin97 said:

Do you usually epoxy the ferrule on as well or just push the ferrule against the head with epoxy and that is enough to keep it in the right place?  First time I put some epoxy underneath the ferrule as well

 

My irons have held up fine even with some of them creeping up so I don't know if what I did was wrong but I'm by no means an expert club builder......................yet

Put a dab of expoxy on tip of shaft and slide ferrule on. Insert shaft into hosel bore and set ferrule depth. Add a little more epoxy to shaft and inside hosel bore. Make sure it has a nice even coat. Good to go.

[blarkin97]

Just now, kjbuckeye said:

Put a dab of expoxy on tip of shaft and slide ferrule on. Insert shaft into hosel bore and set ferrule depth. Add a little more epoxy to shaft and inside hosel bore. Make sure it has a nice even coat. Good to go.

Cool that is pretty much what I did last time so I just need to make sure to seat the ferrule into the hosel a bit more