How far do you hit you 7 iron?

[Wormkiller]

8 hours ago, chigolfer1 said:

 

I'm sure you've noticed you've got some strange things going on with those yardages in those mid irons/hybrids?

Yep. I'm not playing my 5 iron at the moment as I don't hit it well. There's a very limited amount of shots for that. I've replaced it with a 5 hybrid (H25). My 6 hybrid has only been in my bag sparingly, again sample size is not sufficient to draw conclusions on that.

 

Add to this, I'm a high handicapper for a reason. My ball striking isn't particularly consistent.

Edited June 28, 2021 by Wormkiller

[Lincoln_Arcadia]

7 hours ago, ChipStrokes said:

yes, i’m well aware 

Nothing makes your day better than to have your faults revealed to the world multiple times Hahaha!

[chipa]

On 6/26/2021 at 8:08 PM, Nard_S said:

At a range yesterday was dancing the ball around a 168 flag . 36 degree is loft. Can drive it 275. What's the problem?

 

Would those be some old blades you are playing if not what is the model or maybe you have them bent?

[ChipStrokes]

8 minutes ago, Lincoln_Arcadia said:

Nothing makes your day better than to have your faults revealed to the world multiple times Hahaha!

if i could make a deal with the devil and trade 20mph of club head speed for 20 strokes off my handicap, i’d sign right now. 

[chipa]

2 minutes ago, ChipStrokes said:

if i could make a deal with the devil and trade 20mph of club head speed for 20 strokes off my handicap, i’d sign right now. 

 

Just shorten your swing. Lots of good players do it. I could swing in the high 120's on occasion when young and always tried to hit my irons like Daly or Tiger, and paid the price. Now I 3/4 my irons for accuracy and consistency. Remember the only thing that matters on approaches from 100-210 yards is the distance to the pin, not what you hit.

 

I would also recommend playing players irons with some GI with weakest lofts you can find so your gapping isn't an issue. Also I would recommend playing shafts with a strong tip section. I play X's in my woods and having a stiff tip section has helped me wonders in terms of accuracy. You should be a minimum XX if not XX for your woods.

[ChipStrokes]

2 minutes ago, chipa said:

 

Just shorten your swing. Lots of good players do it. I could swing in the high 120's on occasion when young and always tried to hit my irons like Daly or Tiger, and paid the price. Now I 3/4 my irons for accuracy and consistency. Remember the only thing that matters on approaches from 100-210 yards is the distance to the pin, not what you hit.

 

I would also recommend playing players irons with some GI with weakest lofts you can find so your gapping isn't an issue. Also I would recommend playing shafts with a strong tip section. I play X's in my woods and having a stiff tip section has helped me wonders in terms of accuracy. You should be a minimum XX if not XX for your woods.

thanks for the suggestions. i’m happy to say my handicap is falling fast. 

 

i don’t swing all out on the course, and as a result, have been able to keep driver in play much more than when i started playing last year. i’ve also stopped hitting driver unless the fairway is wide open. 

 

going one club up with an 80% swing has led to a lot more greens hit this year also. 

 

like you suggested, i’ve got DG X7s in my irons and TX shafts in my driver, 3w, and driving iron. 

[chipa]

3 minutes ago, ChipStrokes said:

thanks for the suggestions. i’m happy to say my handicap is falling fast. 

 

i don’t swing all out on the course, and as a result, have been able to keep driver in play much more than when i started playing last year. i’ve also stopped hitting driver unless the fairway is wide open. 

 

going one club up with an 80% swing has led to a lot more greens hit this year also. 

 

like you suggested, i’ve got DG X7s in my irons and TX shafts in my driver, 3w, and driving iron. 

 

I actually got rid of my driver in place of a 43.5" 2 wood that I hit much straighter than my driver. Since I'm still long especially for my short home course there is little drawback, only on the 2 par 5's that play into the wind. I will be experimenting with a 48" driver soon just for those holes. My goal is to be playing in the 70's on occasion, something I did many years ago. 

[Myherobobhope]

1 minute ago, chipa said:

 

I actually got rid of my driver in place of a 43.5" 2 wood that I hit much straighter than my driver. Since I'm still long especially for my short home course there is little drawback, only on the 2 par 5's that play into the wind. I will be experimenting with a 48" driver soon just for those holes. My goal is to be playing in the 70's on occasion, something I did many years ago. 

What 2 wood are you playing? I need a secondary tee club.

[ChipStrokes]

1 minute ago, chipa said:

 

I actually got rid of my driver in place of a 43.5" 2 wood that I hit much straighter than my driver. Since I'm still long especially for my short home course there is little drawback, only on the 2 par 5's that play into the wind. I will be experimenting with a 48" driver soon just for those holes. My goal is to be playing in the 70's on occasion, something I did many years ago. 

i thought about ditching my driver also, but was finally able to get the face closed and keep it from spinning right off the planet. now i just fight the occasional low strike that spins and climbs to 200’ and only carries about 220. 

 

i carry my 3w 280+, but i’m still prone to the dreaded ground ball top when i over swing. 

[chipa]

14 minutes ago, Myherobobhope said:

What 2 wood are you playing? I need a secondary tee club.

 

It's a 98 Big Bertha 12 deg. driver for women that I bought on ebay for $15. I added some lead tape to get it to 207g and the shaft is 82g at 43.5". So far I have never hit any of my drivers straighter as long as I can remember. It appears to be about 150 cc, which is the size of small fairway woods except the face is deeper so its at 195cc. 

 

However, if I had the money I really wanted to try a used TM mini driver but I'm not complaining. It turns out that the smaller headed woods aren't really that hard to hit.

Edited June 28, 2021 by chipa

[adamwittman]

Miura stock loft tournament blade with kbs ctaper stock is 180 that has an aod of 47/48 but can go to 45 aod and 190

[byoshio82]

185

[Nard_S]

10 hours ago, chipa said:

 

Would those be some old blades you are playing if not what is the model or maybe you have them bent?

Titleist 681 w/ Rifle shafts. OEM original even the grips. Gained a dozen yards in past few years basically from better mechanics & geometry. It's harder to go new level on index than on ball speed. One requires dozens of hours per week on the course the other requires a handful per week at the range. Life only afforded me the latter.

[Filipp0]

175 carry is my typical distance, but I'm comfortable hitting it 170-180 with 2015 Callaway Apex Forged irons

[NHenson815]

On 6/26/2021 at 10:06 AM, NHenson815 said:

I carry my 7 iron around 145, which seems odd given that I can swing a 43 inch driver around 115mph.  I am terrible with short irons and wedges.  I can hit my Miura 1 iron more consistently than I can hit my 7 iron.  I'm better off using my 11 wood for all approach shots.

As an update, I finally received my Callaway Apex DCB irons (an experiment to see if I can hit a game improvement iron better than my Miura MC-501s).  The 7 iron on the DCB goes about 30 yards further than the MC-501 (175 versus 145).  However, that is only if I can actually make proper contact as I'm actually worse with the DCB versus the MC-501 (but the ball certainly explodes off the face of those DCBs).  The DCB lofts are weakened 1 degree, but that is still obviously a bit more "jacked" over the MC-501.  I plan to continue practicing with the DCBs to see if I can get used to them, but at the end of the day, I really need to get lessons to learn how to properly hit 6I - PW.   I'm relatively comfortable with 2I - 5I, but I'm even more comfortable with fairway woods and hybrids, so not point in carrying the longer irons.  

[chipa]

1 hour ago, NHenson815 said:

As an update, I finally received my Callaway Apex DCB irons (an experiment to see if I can hit a game improvement iron better than my Miura MC-501s).  The 7 iron on the DCB goes about 30 yards further than the MC-501 (175 versus 145).  However, that is only if I can actually make proper contact as I'm actually worse with the DCB versus the MC-501 (but the ball certainly explodes off the face of those DCBs).  The DCB lofts are weakened 1 degree, but that is still obviously a bit more "jacked" over the MC-501.  I plan to continue practicing with the DCBs to see if I can get used to them, but at the end of the day, I really need to get lessons to learn how to properly hit 6I - PW.   I'm relatively comfortable with 2I - 5I, but I'm even more comfortable with fairway woods and hybrids, so not point in carrying the longer irons.  

 

I have never been good with the short irons but rather much better with the woods and long irons. I'm not tall so it can't be a swing plane issue, but then again with good mechanics I don't see that the backswing plane makes any difference. I believe the longer swing with the woods and long irons allowed me time to make a better weight shift which positively affects my hand and arm mechanics.

[NHenson815]

8 hours ago, chipa said:

 

I have never been good with the short irons but rather much better with the woods and long irons. I'm not tall so it can't be a swing plane issue, but then again with good mechanics I don't see that the backswing plane makes any difference. I believe the longer swing with the woods and long irons allowed me time to make a better weight shift which positively affects my hand and arm mechanics.

After today's range session, it seems like I am starting to get used to making better contact with the DCBs.  From an overall standpoint, my main concern is that I am both too strong (for these particular clubs) and too inconsistent, which is a bad combination.  I can't control distance the distance very well.  I have Graphite Design AD-95 in X Flex on them, which feel amazingly strong for the weight and creates some serious impact energy, but I might need to go with heavy steel to keep my swing speed in a more consistent range.  Maybe I'll switch the Miura shafts (OBAN CT-125s on those) with the DCBs to see what happens.  I'll give it some more time as I'm not looking forward to removing and re-epoxying all those.  Maybe I'll just pay someone else to do it.  

[chipa]

47 minutes ago, NHenson815 said:

After today's range session, it seems like I am starting to get used to making better contact with the DCBs.  From an overall standpoint, my main concern is that I am both too strong (for these particular clubs) and too inconsistent, which is a bad combination.  I can't control distance the distance very well.  I have Graphite Design AD-95 in X Flex on them, which feel amazingly strong for the weight and creates some serious impact energy, but I might need to go with heavy steel to keep my swing speed in a more consistent range.  Maybe I'll switch the Miura shafts (OBAN CT-125s on those) with the DCBs to see what happens.  I'll give it some more time as I'm not looking forward to removing and re-epoxying all those.  Maybe I'll just pay someone else to do it.  

 

Game improvement irons are not designed for distance control and as a consequence they spin the ball less to maximize the distance similar to a driver. This means once the ball hits the green it may or may not release.

 

In my honest opinion GI irons and players distance irons are not designed to help people shoot lower scores, only to let them have the satisfaction of hitting the ball longer. Scoring for irons means smaller yardage gaps between irons and as much spin as possible.

 

 

 

 

[egonz]

With a solid strike, I use it for around 165 carry

[NHenson815]

2 hours ago, chipa said:

 

Game improvement irons are not designed for distance control and as a consequence they spin the ball less to maximize the distance similar to a driver. This means once the ball hits the green it may or may not release.

 

In my honest opinion GI irons and players distance irons are not designed to help people shoot lower scores, only to let them have the satisfaction of hitting the ball longer. Scoring for irons means smaller yardage gaps between irons and as much spin as possible.

 

 

 

 

It definitely seems that way.  I think people suggest game improvement irons for me because I don't play very much and they assume it will help.  However, I am a gear junkie and tinker, so I hit thousands of balls testing equipment.  As such, I can swing with some strength and reliably strike the middle of the face of most clubs (except 6I to PW).  I have no idea how to line up to a target, hit from weird lies, or anything which would require playing actual golf to learn how to do, lol

[marte]

260 when I hit it perfect (which I never have).

Otherwise 130 at best.  Used to be my 150 club years ago when I played 30-40 rounds a year but haven't played this year, won't be and played just 6 18's in last 3 years.