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Is this considered non-conforming?


Swinginmyshaft

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I've always been a huge tinkerer with clubs and I recently tried something with an old junior flex shaft and an extra stiff shaft. I cut the extra stiff in half, then cut most of the junior flex off, mostly the tip section. I then put the junior flex inside the XS shaft and tapped it down in there real good then drilled a real tiny hole and put a small screw in to secure it, of course I could've used epoxy, but screw was quicker with no mess. Anyways, I cut it to my preferred length of 44.5 then added lead tape. The shaft is super whippy at the top, but at the bottom is extra stiff. At first I didn't think I'd be able to find the sweet spot, but to my surprise, I put impact tape on the face and out of 15 drives only 1 was slightly off center. I couldn't believe this, not only I'm I hitting it straighter, but my distance has dramatically went up. Btw, I'm around a 4 handicap and always have hit the ball around 270 ish or so, but now every single one of my drives are going 310 to 320. I know this sounds like a load of BS, but I swear on my life It's the truth. I'm also able to take a much stronger grip and go after it with everything I got and the ball will not hook it just goes perfectly straight or slight draw with mid low flight that runs forever. This discovery is unbelievable and has changed my game. I done this to my 3 wood and hybrid as well and same thing about 25 yards to 30 longer. I'll never go back to just a normal shaft, if I tried a really strong grip and took a rip at it with normal shaft it would have hooked so bad the ball would have come back around and hit me. Lol. Seriously though, does anyone have any knowledge as to what is possibly going on with the shafts together like that? I told a guy in Edwin watts about it and he acted like what a bunch of BS. He also said the shaft would snap in half if you did that, well, i've hit over 500 balls with all 3 clubs and no breakage yet.

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> @Jc0 said:

> Definitely illegal because of the screw and I think that may be what is helping you. Because you have the screw in the shaft it's going to affect the flex on that axis so a release that would normally cause the face to open or closed would still come through square.

 

That being said if you do it with epoxy it may technically be legal since no orientation would have extra support (similar to multi material shafts). Would be curious if it still plays the same.

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> @Swinginmyshaft said:

> I've always been a huge tinkerer with clubs and I recently tried something with an old junior flex shaft and an extra stiff shaft. I cut the extra stiff in half, then cut most of the junior flex off, mostly the tip section. I then put the junior flex inside the XS shaft and tapped it down in there real good then drilled a real tiny hole and put a small screw in to secure it, of course I could've used epoxy, but screw was quicker with no mess. Anyways, I cut it to my preferred length of 44.5 then added lead tape. The shaft is super whippy at the top, but at the bottom is extra stiff. At first I didn't think I'd be able to find the sweet spot, but to my surprise, I put impact tape on the face and out of 15 drives only 1 was slightly off center. I couldn't believe this, not only I'm I hitting it straighter, but my distance has dramatically went up. Btw, I'm around a 4 handicap and always have hit the ball around 270 ish or so, but now every single one of my drives are going 310 to 320. I know this sounds like a load of BS, but I swear on my life It's the truth. I'm also able to take a much stronger grip and go after it with everything I got and the ball will not hook it just goes perfectly straight or slight draw with mid low flight that runs forever. This discovery is unbelievable and has changed my game. I done this to my 3 wood and hybrid as well and same thing about 25 yards to 30 longer. I'll never go back to just a normal shaft, if I tried a really strong grip and took a rip at it with normal shaft it would have hooked so bad the ball would have come back around and hit me. Lol. Seriously though, does anyone have any knowledge as to what is possibly going on with the shafts together like that? I told a guy in Edwin watts about it and he acted like what a bunch of BS. He also said the shaft would snap in half if you did that, well, i've hit over 500 balls with all 3 clubs and no breakage yet.

 

Im not sure i understand what you have done, it sound like the front half is one shaft, then you have inserted another shaft into this front half, and used a bolt to keep them together?

As far as i understand the rules, only long putters would be legal like that (for easier transport), while all others would be deemed non conforming for that reason alone.

 

Shaft INSERTS is not illegal, (Prosoft, sensicore, shotmaker) as long as they dont add any BIAS to the shaft behavior, so maybe you should try using a R flex, tip trimmed to the max, and "glue in" a Junior shaft as "insert" so outside only the R flex shafts is visible?

 

Since you dont add any pictures, its not easy to understand what you have done, but the updated rules for equipment is in this link

https://www.usga.org/content/dam/usga/pdf/Equipment/Equipment%20Rules%20Final.pdf

 

When it comes to how your shaft works, i suspect WEIGHT and balance point to be the reason for improved impact, not the Frankenstein solution itself

If im right about that, you can use lead tape on the lower half of the shaft to add weight and move BP against the tip, and thats legal.

Flex does matter, but not as much as weight and balance point does, so i think you might have found something that works better for you, but that your conclusions about why it works is wrong.

DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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The rules for shafts are relatively simple: It must be (reasonably) straight, and bend uniformly when loaded the same way regardless of orientation.

 

Your question is an interesting one in that it is not inherently illegal to ram a shaft segment into another... That's what adding an extension is. It is not inherently illegal to pin a shaft.. they did it for years back when, albeit always below hosel level in the neck of the club.

 

It would come down to whether or not your frankenshaft satisfied the USGA that it bent uniformly. I think had you epoxied it there wouldn't have been a question... For mine it's be legal

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If there are "butt stiff" and "tip stiff" shaft profiles, for example, then it seems that all conforming shafts don't actually bend "uniformly" (unless I don't know what they mean by "uniformly). It would be interesting if the various weights and flex points in your frankenshaft could be duplicated and manufactured in a single, uniform-looking shaft, and behave exactly like yours does.

 

It also makes me wonder if the "Bubble Burner" shaft from back in the day was illegal then or was eventually deemed illegal...

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> @Swinginmyshaft said:

> I've always been a huge tinkerer with clubs and I recently tried something with an old junior flex shaft and an extra stiff shaft. I cut the extra stiff in half, then cut most of the junior flex off, mostly the tip section. I then put the junior flex inside the XS shaft and tapped it down in there real good then drilled a real tiny hole and put a small screw in to secure it, of course I could've used epoxy, but screw was quicker with no mess. Anyways, I cut it to my preferred length of 44.5 then added lead tape. The shaft is super whippy at the top, but at the bottom is extra stiff. At first I didn't think I'd be able to find the sweet spot, but to my surprise, I put impact tape on the face and out of 15 drives only 1 was slightly off center. I couldn't believe this, not only I'm I hitting it straighter, but my distance has dramatically went up. Btw, I'm around a 4 handicap and always have hit the ball around 270 ish or so, but now every single one of my drives are going 310 to 320. I know this sounds like a load of BS, but I swear on my life It's the truth. I'm also able to take a much stronger grip and go after it with everything I got and the ball will not hook it just goes perfectly straight or slight draw with mid low flight that runs forever. This discovery is unbelievable and has changed my game. I done this to my 3 wood and hybrid as well and same thing about 25 yards to 30 longer. I'll never go back to just a normal shaft, if I tried a really strong grip and took a rip at it with normal shaft it would have hooked so bad the ball would have come back around and hit me. Lol. Seriously though, does anyone have any knowledge as to what is possibly going on with the shafts together like that? I told a guy in Edwin watts about it and he acted like what a bunch of BS. He also said the shaft would snap in half if you did that, well, i've hit over 500 balls with all 3 clubs and no breakage yet.

 

Harrison Shafts had a product called a "shotmaker" that was a similar concept. They had 4 flexes, it was 12 inches long and it fit into a driver shaft and made it more rigid. The dispersion was noticeably tighter with everyone I ever worked with, but Harrison went out of business...so no more shotmaker.

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Titleist TSi2 21 degree w/Accra TZ6 75 M5 

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Srixon ZX7 7-PW w/KBS TGI 110 (SS 1x) @1/2" over standard
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> @KMeloney said:

> If there are "butt stiff" and "tip stiff" shaft profiles, for example, then it seems that all conforming shafts don't actually bend "uniformly" (unless I don't know what they mean by "uniformly). It would be interesting if the various weights and flex points in your frankenshaft could be duplicated and manufactured in a single, uniform-looking shaft, and behave exactly like yours does.

>

> It also makes me wonder if the "Bubble Burner" shaft from back in the day was illegal then or was eventually deemed illegal...

 

They mean the shaft must bend the same way, no matter orientation, but this is how the shaft must be designed. It not legal to design or build a shaft with asymmetrical properties, but all shaft has some asymmetrical behavior due to tolerances in production. PURE and FLO is legal, but not if we take advantage of asymmetrical properties, its to eliminate them.

DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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> @KMeloney said:

> If there are "butt stiff" and "tip stiff" shaft profiles, for example, then it seems that all conforming shafts don't actually bend "uniformly" (unless I don't know what they mean by "uniformly). It would be interesting if the various weights and flex points in your frankenshaft could be duplicated and manufactured in a single, uniform-looking shaft, and behave exactly like yours does.

>

> It also makes me wonder if the "Bubble Burner" shaft from back in the day was illegal then or was eventually deemed illegal...

 

Oh sorry, my explanation above was lacking. What they mean is orientation about the cross section of the shaft; that you shouldn't be able to rotate the shaft a particular way and have better properties. (Ie performance the same way label up, label down, etc.) So a butt stiff shaft with a noodle for a tip is fine. But a shaft that plays tip-stiff x-flex inserted spine at 12 o'clock and say senior-flex inserted spine at 3 o'clock would not be. (Although quite an engineering feat)

 

When I asked the USGA about it, the response was basically if you clamp the grip so the shaft is horizontal and apply a load at the tip, is the tip deflection and bend profile the same regardless of how you rotate the shaft in the clamp.

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While I do applaud your innovative thinking and am very impressed that you made it work, I would think that what you havery built here is potentially very dangerous to the other golfers around you. Two random shafts held together with a single tiny screw? Man, I wouldn't want you behind me at the range...

 

Could you not epoxy the pieces together? I sure would like to see pictures of this thing.

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I don't think it exists

Callaway Rogue ST Max 10.5°/Xcaliber SL 45 a flex,Callaway Rogue ST Max Heavenwood/Xcaliber FW a flex, Maltby KE4 ST-H 3h/Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby KE4 ST-H 4h/Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby KE4 Tour TC 5h/Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby KE4 Tour+ 6-G/Xcaliber Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby Max Milled 54° & 58°/Xcaliber Wedge 85 r flex, Mizuno Bettinardi C06

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> @liveagua said:

> > @Swinginmyshaft said:

> > I've always been a huge tinkerer with clubs and I recently tried something with an old junior flex shaft and an extra stiff shaft. I cut the extra stiff in half, then cut most of the junior flex off, mostly the tip section. I then put the junior flex inside the XS shaft and tapped it down in there real good then drilled a real tiny hole and put a small screw in to secure it, of course I could've used epoxy, but screw was quicker with no mess. Anyways, I cut it to my preferred length of 44.5 then added lead tape. The shaft is super whippy at the top, but at the bottom is extra stiff. At first I didn't think I'd be able to find the sweet spot, but to my surprise, I put impact tape on the face and out of 15 drives only 1 was slightly off center. I couldn't believe this, not only I'm I hitting it straighter, but my distance has dramatically went up. Btw, I'm around a 4 handicap and always have hit the ball around 270 ish or so, but now every single one of my drives are going 310 to 320. I know this sounds like a load of BS, but I swear on my life It's the truth. I'm also able to take a much stronger grip and go after it with everything I got and the ball will not hook it just goes perfectly straight or slight draw with mid low flight that runs forever. This discovery is unbelievable and has changed my game. I done this to my 3 wood and hybrid as well and same thing about 25 yards to 30 longer. I'll never go back to just a normal shaft, if I tried a really strong grip and took a rip at it with normal shaft it would have hooked so bad the ball would have come back around and hit me. Lol. Seriously though, does anyone have any knowledge as to what is possibly going on with the shafts together like that? I told a guy in Edwin watts about it and he acted like what a bunch of BS. He also said the shaft would snap in half if you did that, well, i've hit over 500 balls with all 3 clubs and no breakage yet.

>

> Harrison Shafts had a product called a "shotmaker" that was a similar concept. They had 4 flexes, it was 12 inches long and it fit into a driver shaft and made it more rigid. The dispersion was noticeably tighter with everyone I ever worked with, but Harrison went out of business...so no more shotmaker.

 

 

The Shotmaker was the first thing that came to mind. I never saw the kind of increase this guy is saying but it damned sure tightened up the pattern. I still have one or two somewhere...

 

 

 

 

The answer to better golf is work your butt off and learn how to hit it better, farther, and make more putts.

 

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> @Swingingk said:

> While I do applaud your innovative thinking and am very impressed that you made it work, I would think that what you havery built here is potentially very dangerous to the other golfers around you. Two random shafts held together with a single tiny screw? Man, I wouldn't want you behind me at the range...

>

> Could you not epoxy the pieces together? I sure would like to see pictures of this thing.

 

I could use epoxy, but a screw with loctite is much safer. I knew someone would think It's dangerous. I have lot's of inventions that are dangerous, but nothing has ever happened. It's kinda like driving with 2 lug nuts vs all of them, your just fine with two as long as they are torqued real good. I once built a water propelled skateboard that went 40 mph.

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> @Swinginmyshaft said:

> I just Don't understand why a shaft manafactuer cannot make a shaft with two different flexes in one shaft. Is it that hard to say have it ladies flex at the top, but x stiff at bottom or vice versa to someone's liking. I will try and post a pic.

 

There is shafts on the marked with a butt section thats very soft compared to mid and tip, but not "all the way" like your shaft.

Do you know weight, Balance point and how SW looks like now? i still think thats where most of the difference comes from

DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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> @Swinginmyshaft said:

> > @Swingingk said:

> > While I do applaud your innovative thinking and am very impressed that you made it work, I would think that what you havery built here is potentially very dangerous to the other golfers around you. Two random shafts held together with a single tiny screw? Man, I wouldn't want you behind me at the range...

> >

> > Could you not epoxy the pieces together? I sure would like to see pictures of this thing.

>

> I could use epoxy, but a screw with loctite is much safer. I knew someone would think It's dangerous. I have lot's of inventions that are dangerous, but nothing has ever happened. It's kinda like driving with 2 lug nuts vs all of them, your just fine with two as long as they are torqued real good. I once built a water propelled skateboard that went 40 mph.

 

Really I'm not usually the guy popping off about safety but I probably just don't understand what it is you've built. Correct me if I'm wrong here but it sounds like you've pounded one smaller shaft down the bore of another larger shaft then secured the assembly with a small screw? I'm no engineer but I guess I could agree with you in that it does sound about as safe as 2 lug nuts vs 5, or a 40 mph water propelled skateboard.

 

I actually did have a front wheel come off my VW beetle on the freeway once and can attest to the danger in that one, and as a previously avid skate boarder, also know what it's like to fall off one at 20 mph let alone 40. Just sayin'....

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Anyone else feel a sales pitch coming? Or that its getting dark under the bridge?

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Callaway Rogue ST Max 10.5°/Xcaliber SL 45 a flex,Callaway Rogue ST Max Heavenwood/Xcaliber FW a flex, Maltby KE4 ST-H 3h/Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby KE4 ST-H 4h/Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby KE4 Tour TC 5h/Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby KE4 Tour+ 6-G/Xcaliber Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby Max Milled 54° & 58°/Xcaliber Wedge 85 r flex, Mizuno Bettinardi C06

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> @Swinginmyshaft said:

> I just Don't understand why a shaft manafactuer cannot make a shaft with two different flexes in one shaft. Is it that hard to say have it ladies flex at the top, but x stiff at bottom or vice versa to someone's liking. I will try and post a pic.

 

That is because you don't know anything about how shafts are designed and the properties that make up what we call "stiffness."

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Titleist TSi2 21 degree w/Accra TZ6 75 M5 

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How have I not noticed this thread before now?

 

A 40mph water propelled skateboard!? Where do I sign up!?!

Cleveland Launcher HB 10.5* - Stock Miyazaki C. Kua 50 Stiff
Callaway Diablo Octane Tour 13* - Aldila NV 75 Stiff
or
Callaway Diablo Edge Tour 15* - Accra Dymatch M5 75
Mizuno F-50 18* - Stock Stiff
or
Callaway Diablo Edge Tour Hybrid 21* - Aldila NV 85 Stiff
Callaway RAZR Tour Hybrid 24* - Stock XStiff
5 - PW Cleveland CG7 Tour Black Pearl - DGSL S300
Cleveland 588 RTX Rotex 2.0 50* DG Wedge
Cleveland 588 RTX Rotex 2.0 54* DG Wedge
Callaway X-Series JAWS Slate CC 58* Stock Wedge
Odyssey White Ice #7 - Golf Pride Oversize

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