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Even in the common colors. New in the box could be worth something to somebody. Real quick ebay look and $5+ per ball on used ones and that seems to be well on the low side. Craziness, especially in the exotic colors, hard to believe there’s that kinda market but there’s a lot more than 1 page of them on there. 

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On 3/29/2023 at 12:35 PM, ezgoer said:

I don’t know much about the PINGS but I always assumed they were 2 piece cuz I remember them feeling very hard. I actually game and really like the similar modern Srixon Divide Z star….BUT on a final note I’m not sure what people are actually paying but check out how much people are asking for those PING balls. Craziness and maybe you could cash in. 

 

I have a vague recollection that they were two piece, and they feel a little hard, so I think you're right.

 

I'm probably not going to play them, so I am considering putting them up for sale. I've seen a couple of auctions that included two-tone Pings end up going far higher than what would be expected for the usual collection of old balls.

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On 9/14/2022 at 1:16 PM, No_Catchy_Nickname said:

I had a bronze Anser 3 for a while. I'm not entirely sure what makes it so different from an Anser or Anser 2. Anser 4 has the short slant neck (I don't know the proper term for that), but the Anser, Anser 2, and Anser 3 all have the plumber's neck, don't they?

 

Are the blade lengths different from heel to toe?

 

Edit: Forgot to add that 38" for a putter is crazy! Was the previous owner a Tyrannosaurus Rex?

Similar shape to the original anser, but no slot and a sight line. I had an anser 3 for years. I traded it for a Stainless Zing2 after a terrible round of putting at the BC junior championship at Predator Ridge GC. What a week that was.

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About the same time the Golf.com story on Dave Wood was being posted on PGS on facebook, I had decided to scan ebay for Wood Bros drivers.  They tend to command some pretty high prices, especially in covid world order of the past three years, but it's always worth a look.

 

And, happened across a listing for the below stick, at a price I felt was quite reasonable.  It looks like it might need a re-dip or spray, the poly looks to have a wear spot on the face on the insert.  

 

But, it's on its way to me.  

 

DGS shaft, for what it's worth.

 

 

image.png.82c3d1caf5db965b83daa10c950a4bc7.png

 

Here you can see that spot I mention, on the upper part of the middle of the insert

 

image.png.c50f87bd5add7e6e006856845224ad8f.png

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The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini 11.5*, 43.5", Phenom NL 60X -or- Cobra SpeedZone, ProtoPype 80S, 43.5"

Fwy woods: King LTD 3/4, RIP Beta 90X -or- TM Sim2 Ti 3w, NV105 X
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h, MMT 80 S 

Irons grab bag:  1-PW Golden Ram TW276, NV105 S; 1-PW Golden Ram TW282, RIP Tour 115 R; 2-PW Golden Ram Vibration Matched, NS Pro 950WF S
Wedges:  Dynacraft Dual Millled 52*, SteelFiber i125 S -or- Scratch 8620 DD 53*, SteelFiber i125 S; Cobra Snakebite 56* -or- Wilson Staff PMP 58*, Dynamic S -or- Ram TW282 SW -or- Ram TW276 SW
Putter:  Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34" -or- Cleveland Huntington Beach #1, 34.5" -or- Golden Ram TW Custom, 34" -or- Rife Bimini, 34" -or- Maxfli TM-2, 35"
Balls: Chrome Soft, Kirkland Signature 3pc (v3)

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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22 minutes ago, NRJyzr said:

About the same time the Golf.com story on Dave Wood was being posted on PGS on facebook, I had decided to scan ebay for Wood Bros drivers.  They tend to command some pretty high prices, especially in covid world order of the past three years, but it's always worth a look.

 

And, happened across a listing for the below stick, at a price I felt was quite reasonable.  It looks like it might need a re-dip or spray, the poly looks to have a wear spot on the face on the insert.  

 

But, it's on its way to me.  

 

DGS shaft, for what it's worth.

 

 

image.png.82c3d1caf5db965b83daa10c950a4bc7.png

 

Here you can see that spot I mention, on the upper part of the middle of the insert

 

image.png.c50f87bd5add7e6e006856845224ad8f.png

I've a Corker that is among the longest drivers I have.

 

Catch one right, and it will go for ever. 

 

No kidding, I've hit a couple over 300 yards with mine, and that's with a wound ball. They just hung in the air forever, then rolled out really well.

 

However, that super long sweet spot is tiny. A normal decent strike is no different from a regular strke with a persimmon driver.

 

Fun club to hit. Hope you enjoy it.

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44 minutes ago, No_Catchy_Nickname said:

I've a Corker that is among the longest drivers I have.

 

Catch one right, and it will go for ever. 

 

No kidding, I've hit a couple over 300 yards with mine, and that's with a wound ball. They just hung in the air forever, then rolled out really well.

 

However, that super long sweet spot is tiny. A normal decent strike is no different from a regular strke with a persimmon driver.

 

Fun club to hit. Hope you enjoy it.

 

My thinking with this is to give it a real shot on the course.  I feel I'm pretty close to just chucking the modern sticks and going all old school, all the time.  Been thinking I could get a graphite shafted persimmon or two, on top of my graphite shafted Louisville Smart Driver, to have alternatives.  

 

If this works well, I could reshaft this, instead of buying new for the driver.  Probably would still need to buy something new for the 3w slot.

 

There's precious little in the way of graphite shafted persimmons out there on ebay (and other places) that fits me, so my choices are buying new, or reshafting something existing.  

 

Ironically, in just a couple short years, I may find myself aging out of my current shaft flex world, and I may have to do it all over again.   LOL

 

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The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini 11.5*, 43.5", Phenom NL 60X -or- Cobra SpeedZone, ProtoPype 80S, 43.5"

Fwy woods: King LTD 3/4, RIP Beta 90X -or- TM Sim2 Ti 3w, NV105 X
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h, MMT 80 S 

Irons grab bag:  1-PW Golden Ram TW276, NV105 S; 1-PW Golden Ram TW282, RIP Tour 115 R; 2-PW Golden Ram Vibration Matched, NS Pro 950WF S
Wedges:  Dynacraft Dual Millled 52*, SteelFiber i125 S -or- Scratch 8620 DD 53*, SteelFiber i125 S; Cobra Snakebite 56* -or- Wilson Staff PMP 58*, Dynamic S -or- Ram TW282 SW -or- Ram TW276 SW
Putter:  Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34" -or- Cleveland Huntington Beach #1, 34.5" -or- Golden Ram TW Custom, 34" -or- Rife Bimini, 34" -or- Maxfli TM-2, 35"
Balls: Chrome Soft, Kirkland Signature 3pc (v3)

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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On 4/1/2023 at 11:01 PM, NRJyzr said:

 

My thinking with this is to give it a real shot on the course.  I feel I'm pretty close to just chucking the modern sticks and going all old school, all the time.  Been thinking I could get a graphite shafted persimmon or two, on top of my graphite shafted Louisville Smart Driver, to have alternatives.  

 

If this works well, I could reshaft this, instead of buying new for the driver.  Probably would still need to buy something new for the 3w slot.

 

There's precious little in the way of graphite shafted persimmons out there on ebay (and other places) that fits me, so my choices are buying new, or reshafting something existing.  

 

Ironically, in just a couple short years, I may find myself aging out of my current shaft flex world, and I may have to do it all over again.   LOL

 

 

The Japanese seemed to have taken to graphite shafts pretty quickly as I see more persimmon woods with graphite shafts than steel shafts. Not sure about shipping fees, but you might want to try the Japanese sites via a proxy (buyee.jp etc.).

 

That said, secondhand club prices are buoyant at moment. Persimmons that could be bought for 1,000~2,000 yen pre-Covid   are now priced three to four times that, but there are still some bargains out there.

Edited by No_Catchy_Nickname
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  • 2 weeks later...

D8474392-15DE-4064-96BA-809C97F857AC.jpeg.d9481bb8813c5c5e671d35a5c96213be.jpeg1C7068FA-6824-44E6-ACAE-28D33908019E.jpeg.c3701665e6a3056efa37d39d68f97ddf.jpegCF7CDF72-90C6-4D2A-8955-E325578FDDAD.jpeg.f9a8aefff6c11380457ef6485c531a35.jpeg700C1B12-232B-41B0-887F-4854AD51E8A5.jpeg.46b7ad9d43c974bbd4b1c4b487f300a8.jpegB6D29AA8-4635-45DC-999E-0C6B84FD6F0B.jpeg.cb33263a84042294af8b4b7496e502a6.jpeg2729D849-C6FC-4FF4-94DB-E61C2BD76581.jpeg.18d1cebb9e4917d451d0efdc5a5ab4f1.jpegE5EE05E8-5A25-4D67-BB47-1DE25684C6F7.jpeg.997e2609e4842944fc0bfa6d2f3f8872.jpegEBay purchase. Got both as a lot deal with a minimum bid. Cost me $17 a piece to my door. Could use some help please from any of you with the books identifying approximate years these were made. Aluminum shaft on mens club so 60’s to early 70’s my uneducated guess?? Probably not as old as the set I want to pair it with but I love the shape and I sure can’t complain about condition, little busy on back but... I’ve said it before but Spaldings leather grip game was unmatched!! Haven’t even held the damn things like a club yet. Package arrived as I was heading off to work so i ripped it open and took pictures. 

Edited by ezgoer
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6 minutes ago, ezgoer said:

D8474392-15DE-4064-96BA-809C97F857AC.jpeg.d9481bb8813c5c5e671d35a5c96213be.jpeg1C7068FA-6824-44E6-ACAE-28D33908019E.jpeg.c3701665e6a3056efa37d39d68f97ddf.jpegCF7CDF72-90C6-4D2A-8955-E325578FDDAD.jpeg.f9a8aefff6c11380457ef6485c531a35.jpeg700C1B12-232B-41B0-887F-4854AD51E8A5.jpeg.46b7ad9d43c974bbd4b1c4b487f300a8.jpegB6D29AA8-4635-45DC-999E-0C6B84FD6F0B.jpeg.cb33263a84042294af8b4b7496e502a6.jpeg2729D849-C6FC-4FF4-94DB-E61C2BD76581.jpeg.18d1cebb9e4917d451d0efdc5a5ab4f1.jpegE5EE05E8-5A25-4D67-BB47-1DE25684C6F7.jpeg.997e2609e4842944fc0bfa6d2f3f8872.jpegEBay purchase. Got both with a minimum bid. Cost me $17 a piece to my door. Could use some help please from any of you with the books identifying approximate years these were made. Aluminum shaft on mens club so 60’s to early 70’s my uneducated guess?? Probably not as old as the set I want to pair it with but I love the shape and I sure can’t complain about condition, little busy on back but... I’ve said it before but Spaldings leather grip game was unmatched!! Haven’t even held the damn things like a club yet. Package arrived as I was heading off to work so i ripped it open and took pictures. 

Congrats on the Marlyn Smith wedge, one of the founders of the LPGA. As for the Bobby Jones wedge, I thought that the Jones series ended in the '60s...not sure when Kro-Flite was dropped - seem I remember somewhere that it ended about that same time....tho, Maltby's show's Top-Flite cominginto being around early '50s...Neither Jones' not Smith's clubs are in Maltby's, think that by that time Spalding made these for non-proshop...

Again, Congrats....

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@ezgoer just checked Maltby's again (to read the into for Spalding)...says that the Robert T Jones lines continued from 1931 thro the end of WWII & the Top-Flite began in 1950s...so on the heads alone, both wedges are either pre-WWII &/or just post-WWII. Wonder if the Jones' aluminum shaft was a reshaft, cuz of the Kro-Flite head? Tho, gotta wonder just how long were the Kro-Flite heads actually made or sold?

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Thank you so much for the leg work! Never considered the reshaft idea. If they are truly that old they are either time capsule pieces or someone put a lot of attention into them at some point. The chrome is in as good of condition as any club I have. I needed a SW for my 59 CF4000’s and MacGregor SW’s of that era don’t seem very common. Although I’ve spent most of my time searching for as close to a matching Mac wedge as I could find so I could be wrong on this statement. I have a DS for the set but I’m freaked out not having a sand. As little of actual vintage knowledge I have  I know next to nothing about aluminum shafted clubs. Honestly I’ve shied away from em. 

Edited by ezgoer
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@ezgoer looked at your wedges again....the emblem/logo on the is not the standard Spalding. Your's show K-F for Kro-Flite. The Spaldings I have from pre-WWII show a couple of different logo's on RTJ wedges...I don't know which is the older, both have leather wrap grips (the "Kro" in flight is red, & the "S" is black w/red stripping). The shafts are both steel, the "Kro" head has a red/black/rred very thin partial band...so again, hopefully someone w/more Spalding knowledge will be able to help us....
Seems to me I came across a link somewhere that mentioned the time frames of the Spalding logo - I have a persimmon head set that shows a completely different "kro" shape in the inset.

Have fun...when I get time, I'll head to my storage & check the wedge barrel to see if I can find any CF4000 wedges. 

 

 

Spld:logo.jpg

 

oh, came across next to these 2, a well used MacGregor CF4000 PT-1 "Penna Wedge"

Edited by bcstones
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Successful stop at goodwill this evening, all priced at $0.49.  They must have been hoarding the clubs in the back until spring, they had a huge pile out tonite.  
 

Mizuno F-50 3 wood, Auld Classic driver, Rowland Driver, Citation driver, Purespin 56 degree, and the 2 best clubs, Wilson Staff JP55 SW, and a Wilson Staff X31 1 iron.
 

The Citation unfortunately has some significant toe damage and I wasn’t really interested in the other 2 persimmons but for $0.49 they are worth the pickup just for the TT shafts.  The Purespin was just a curiosity purchase, I’ve never hit one and figured it was worth a try.    

02150CA0-1C3E-4A55-B468-569D2B983797.jpeg

B41B68E9-D05F-49B3-A1C6-318933D1B732.jpeg

A66794F8-86F0-42F9-8D3A-BD2BB7B23917.jpeg

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For 0.49 cents any recognizable 1 iron heck yeah, hopefully it cleans up. Can’t go wrong with the Wilson SW and be willing to bet the F50 is close to as good as anything modern. I have a full set of the pure spins somewhere and 0.49 cents a piece is about right, unfortunately for my younger self. 

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20 hours ago, ezgoer said:

D8474392-15DE-4064-96BA-809C97F857AC.jpeg.d9481bb8813c5c5e671d35a5c96213be.jpeg1C7068FA-6824-44E6-ACAE-28D33908019E.jpeg.c3701665e6a3056efa37d39d68f97ddf.jpegCF7CDF72-90C6-4D2A-8955-E325578FDDAD.jpeg.f9a8aefff6c11380457ef6485c531a35.jpeg700C1B12-232B-41B0-887F-4854AD51E8A5.jpeg.46b7ad9d43c974bbd4b1c4b487f300a8.jpegB6D29AA8-4635-45DC-999E-0C6B84FD6F0B.jpeg.cb33263a84042294af8b4b7496e502a6.jpeg2729D849-C6FC-4FF4-94DB-E61C2BD76581.jpeg.18d1cebb9e4917d451d0efdc5a5ab4f1.jpegE5EE05E8-5A25-4D67-BB47-1DE25684C6F7.jpeg.997e2609e4842944fc0bfa6d2f3f8872.jpegEBay purchase. Got both as a lot deal with a minimum bid. Cost me $17 a piece to my door. Could use some help please from any of you with the books identifying approximate years these were made. Aluminum shaft on mens club so 60’s to early 70’s my uneducated guess?? Probably not as old as the set I want to pair it with but I love the shape and I sure can’t complain about condition, little busy on back but... I’ve said it before but Spaldings leather grip game was unmatched!! Haven’t even held the damn things like a club yet. Package arrived as I was heading off to work so i ripped it open and took pictures. 

They are at earliest mid 1960s.  I’d have to check my pro catalogs on when Spalding started using aluminum shafts.  The Robert Jones models at this time were a store line.  They got delegated to that when Top Flite became the top of the line sometime in the 50s. 

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Instagram: cold_war_era_golfer 

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13 hours ago, ezgoer said:

For 0.49 cents any recognizable 1 iron heck yeah, hopefully it cleans up. Can’t go wrong with the Wilson SW and be willing to bet the F50 is close to as good as anything modern. I have a full set of the pure spins somewhere and 0.49 cents a piece is about right, unfortunately for my younger self. 

Lol sounds like the Purespin will be back at goodwill soon

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@ezgoer

Aluminium shafts were only used for a few years. Arnold Palmer won twice in 1967 with them (LA Open and Tucson Open, I think), which kicked off their popularity.

There may have been some clubs with aluminium shafts released that year, but the common timeframe given for them is 1968-71, at least from what I've seen.

 

I don't think that the wedge with the aluminium shaft has been reshafted; as you can see, the aluminium shaft has a noticeably thicker tip, and to insert a tip that thick would require the removal of quite a bit of material from a standard hosel.

 

The aluminium-shafted wedge has a noticeably thicker hosel than the steel-shafted one. I am fairly certain it was designed especially for an aluminium shaft, so I'm going for 1968~71.

 

Incidentally, in this GolfWRX thread, there are a couple of posters pointing out that some manufacturers tried making aluminium and aluminium alloy shafts in the Eighties and later. Quite interesting read.

 

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Looks like a bent shaft...

 

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The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini 11.5*, 43.5", Phenom NL 60X -or- Cobra SpeedZone, ProtoPype 80S, 43.5"

Fwy woods: King LTD 3/4, RIP Beta 90X -or- TM Sim2 Ti 3w, NV105 X
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h, MMT 80 S 

Irons grab bag:  1-PW Golden Ram TW276, NV105 S; 1-PW Golden Ram TW282, RIP Tour 115 R; 2-PW Golden Ram Vibration Matched, NS Pro 950WF S
Wedges:  Dynacraft Dual Millled 52*, SteelFiber i125 S -or- Scratch 8620 DD 53*, SteelFiber i125 S; Cobra Snakebite 56* -or- Wilson Staff PMP 58*, Dynamic S -or- Ram TW282 SW -or- Ram TW276 SW
Putter:  Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34" -or- Cleveland Huntington Beach #1, 34.5" -or- Golden Ram TW Custom, 34" -or- Rife Bimini, 34" -or- Maxfli TM-2, 35"
Balls: Chrome Soft, Kirkland Signature 3pc (v3)

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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15 hours ago, cold_war_era_golfer said:

How’d you bend it back?  I’d like to give it a try. 

 

I clamped the head in a vice or Workmate and then gave the shaft (very close to the hosel) short, sharp pushes in the direction I wanted it to go, gradually increasing the pressure.

 

Probably not how you're supposed to do it but it worked for me!

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It's not all about the score.

https://www.youtube.com/c/ClassicGolfClubs

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4 hours ago, Jiggered said:

 

I clamped the head in a vice or Workmate and then gave the shaft (very close to the hosel) short, sharp pushes in the direction I wanted it to go, gradually increasing the pressure.

 

Probably not how you're supposed to do it but it worked for me!

Well from a guy who heats up bent shafts with a towel over his leg then bends them.  That's actually more scientific.  I just havent seen a bend at the hosel like this before.  I will try your method.

 

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Instagram: cold_war_era_golfer 

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4 hours ago, cold_war_era_golfer said:

Well from a guy who heats up bent shafts with a towel over his leg then bends them.  That's actually more scientific.  I just havent seen a bend at the hosel like this before.  I will try your method.

 

Bends like that generally occur when hitting balls off hard range mats.

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