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Blade users thread (NO DEBATING CLUBHEADS! NO Buy Sell Trade!)


Bigmean

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5 hours ago, Sonja Henie said:

Don't know crap about torque.  What I know is that i recently bought an old set of MP-32's and have been enjoying them.  I hadn't hit the long irons, though.  This week I took the 3 iron out and couldn't believe how great it was to hit.  I compared it to the brand new hollow utility iron I have and hit the MP-32 more consistently than the new club.  I'm really blown away by how much I enjoy hitting them.   

Several years ago I bought my father a set of mp32s.  He's older now and cannot golf anymore so my brother-in-law inherited them from him since they both live in SoCal.  My BIL shoots between 90 and 105 and he immediately fell in love with the mp32s.  Prior to that he was playing old (ugly AF) Eye-2s.  After he played a few rounds and got used to them he called me and told me how much better and easier he hits the ball as compared to his PINGs.

 

LMFAO I had been telling him for years that "forgiveness" is a carney sham(e).  Now he's listening.  😁

 

Welcome to the LIGHT!!!  🌞

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TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

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Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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5 hours ago, Nard_S said:

I've seen torque ratings for DG iron shafts hover around 1.7-1.9. The SP Blue is rated at 1.9. I get there's no universal standard but from a relative perspective, gives an idea. SPB are near S300 perhaps a tad softer tipped, so the numbers work.

Yeah since Nippon sells both graphite and SS shafts (and wants to keep selling them) I don't see it as an issue that they are somehow biased in testing one or the other and would actually perform different tests to skew either of the numbers.

 

And your SPB numbers are consistent, in a relative sense, to my 850 and 950 NS Pros which are around 2 degrees.  The SPB is a slightly stouter shaft than mine.  Makes perfect sense.

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TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

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Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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So with the weather out here in Portland getting better, I decided to put my backup bag away today.  My satin BB set.  My 'Cal Hotties'.  I just got done practicing with them too, and on weekdays they will still be my practice set for after work.  I love this set but I just gotta bring out my gamers.  My black boron BBs.  My 'Porn Stars'.  Tomorrow I'm playing alone and it will be a good day to get used to them again prior to Sunday when I'm set to play against my buddy for pride.  And since I beat him two weeks ago and he's the better golfer, he wants revenge!  It's probably a dumb move because I'm hitting the backups well right now.

 

What would you all blade users do?  Do you folks that have multiple blades sets have just the one that you will always bring on game day or do you change up without issues?  Do you stick with what's working at the time?  LOL first world problems.

IMG_20210326_180501941_HDR.jpg

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TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

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Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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Right now I have 2 combo sets (Nike and KZG), my first set of full muscle backs come in May (BGD) and today I learned my second set should be ready early 2022 (Haywood).

Edited by lefthack
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Haywood 1 with Hzrdus Black RDX 70

Haywood 3W PXG 0211 5W

Haywood 18* driving iron

Haywood MB irons 3-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Haywood 52/10 and 56/12 wedges

Haywood mid mallet putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips 

 

"You're not good enough to get mad at your bad shots!" - Bill Murray

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37 minutes ago, DeNinny said:

Do you folks that have multiple blades sets have just the one that you will always bring on game day or do you change up without issues? 

 

I've played four rounds during 2020.  I've used three iron sets in those four rounds.   LOL

 

Normally, I play a set for a while before I get what my lovely spouse calls a "wild hair" and toss something else in the bag.

 

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The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini 11.5*, 43.5", Phenom NL 60X -or- Cobra SpeedZone, ProtoPype 80S, 43.5"

Fwy woods: King LTD 3/4, RIP Beta 90X -or- TM Sim2 Ti 3w, NV105 X
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h, MMT 80 S 

Irons grab bag:  1-PW Golden Ram TW276, NV105 S; 1-PW Golden Ram TW282, RIP Tour 115 R; 2-PW Golden Ram Vibration Matched, NS Pro 950WF S
Wedges:  Dynacraft Dual Millled 52*, SteelFiber i125 S -or- Scratch 8620 DD 53*, SteelFiber i125 S; Cobra Snakebite 56* -or- Wilson Staff PMP 58*, Dynamic S -or- Ram TW282 SW -or- Ram TW276 SW
Putter:  Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34" -or- Cleveland Huntington Beach #1, 34.5" -or- Golden Ram TW Custom, 34" -or- Rife Bimini, 34" -or- Maxfli TM-2, 35"
Balls: Chrome Soft, Kirkland Signature 3pc (v3)

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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11 minutes ago, NRJyzr said:

 

I've played four rounds during 2020.  I've used three iron sets in those four rounds.   LOL

 

Normally, I play a set for a while before I get what my lovely spouse calls a "wild hair" and toss something else in the bag.

 

So with money or pride on the line does it change?

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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36 minutes ago, DeNinny said:

So with money or pride on the line does it change?

 

I'm toying with joining my course's men's club, which would mean events, something on the line.  In that case, I'd probably drop the experiments and stick with a set.  Right now, that would probably be the MP-37, 2-pw (set I've played last two rounds).

 

Edited by NRJyzr
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The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini 11.5*, 43.5", Phenom NL 60X -or- Cobra SpeedZone, ProtoPype 80S, 43.5"

Fwy woods: King LTD 3/4, RIP Beta 90X -or- TM Sim2 Ti 3w, NV105 X
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h, MMT 80 S 

Irons grab bag:  1-PW Golden Ram TW276, NV105 S; 1-PW Golden Ram TW282, RIP Tour 115 R; 2-PW Golden Ram Vibration Matched, NS Pro 950WF S
Wedges:  Dynacraft Dual Millled 52*, SteelFiber i125 S -or- Scratch 8620 DD 53*, SteelFiber i125 S; Cobra Snakebite 56* -or- Wilson Staff PMP 58*, Dynamic S -or- Ram TW282 SW -or- Ram TW276 SW
Putter:  Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34" -or- Cleveland Huntington Beach #1, 34.5" -or- Golden Ram TW Custom, 34" -or- Rife Bimini, 34" -or- Maxfli TM-2, 35"
Balls: Chrome Soft, Kirkland Signature 3pc (v3)

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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1 hour ago, lefthack said:

Right now I have 2 combo sets (Nike and KZG), my first set of full muscle backs come in May (BGD) and today I learned my second set should be ready early 2022 (Haywood).

That's quite a variety stable you are assembling.  Never heard of either BGD or Haywood so I'm looking forward to your experiences with them.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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1 minute ago, DeNinny said:

That's quite a variety stable you are assembling.  Never heard of either BGD or Haywood so I'm looking forward to your experiences with them.

 

Me either. End of last year another forum member got some BGD's and I thought they looked cool. I asked them if they planned to make any lefties and he said they were. Then a few weeks ago I got a Facebook message from them that 15 sets of lefties were in the first run. They are a forged iron for $450 and they look great. 

 

After looking at them, I started a thread asking about small companies and heard about KZG and Haywood in there. The KZG set I just built kinda fell into my lap and I HAD to say yes. After two rounds, I've never been happier (and my gamers were Nike VR Pro Combos, awesome).

 

The BGD's are a support purchase that might also be an amazing set of clubs. Or maybe a VERY limited edition. 🤣

 

https://www.byrdiegolf.com/

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Haywood 1 with Hzrdus Black RDX 70

Haywood 3W PXG 0211 5W

Haywood 18* driving iron

Haywood MB irons 3-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Haywood 52/10 and 56/12 wedges

Haywood mid mallet putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips 

 

"You're not good enough to get mad at your bad shots!" - Bill Murray

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19 minutes ago, lefthack said:

 

Me either. End of last year another forum member got some BGD's and I thought they looked cool. I asked them if they planned to make any lefties and he said they were. Then a few weeks ago I got a Facebook message from them that 15 sets of lefties were in the first run. They are a forged iron for $450 and they look great. 

 

After looking at them, I started a thread asking about small companies and heard about KZG and Haywood in there. The KZG set I just built kinda fell into my lap and I HAD to say yes. After two rounds, I've never been happier (and my gamers were Nike VR Pro Combos, awesome).

 

The BGD's are a support purchase that might also be an amazing set of clubs. Or maybe a VERY limited edition. 🤣

 

https://www.byrdiegolf.com/

To me any of Nike's blades are great sets.  It's nice you have a set with your KZGs too.  I'm partial to the Victory Reds and their original blades myself.  And I never hit a KZG I didn't like.

 

Thanks for that link.  It's interesting they offer cast iron blades in the Series 1 and 4 models.  And I like the Series 1 design shape.  So simple and classic.

Edited by DeNinny

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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2 hours ago, DeNinny said:

 

What would you all blade users do?  Do you folks that have multiple blades sets have just the one that you will always bring on game day or do you change up without issues?

I like playing and practicing with one set even though I have boat load to play with. I did the play a set for a month thing and felt it short changed both me and the clubs. I like that old shoe or worn in jeans feeling. 

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1 hour ago, Nard_S said:

I like playing and practicing with one set even though I have boat load to play with. I did the play a set for a month thing and felt it short changed both me and the clubs. I like that old shoe or worn in jeans feeling. 

I like that too.  Playing the same set also takes away the clubs as a variable so you can gauge the range of your scoring and overall rate of improvement based on you alone.  You can't blame or give credit to the clubs anymore.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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I've been playing my Srixon Pro 100s for the last couple of months, except for a persimmon and blades round earlier this month, when I put the Muirfield 20ths in the bag.

 

I played today with the Pro 100s in the bag, and I have to say I'm really impressed with them. Soft-but-solid feel, and a nice ball-flight, though that may have more to do with the shafts (TT S300s, soft-stepped x1 but straight in, so I've got a 9i shaft in the PW, 8i shaft in the 9i and so on. 

 

Anyhow, great irons, very playable, but perhaps not the longest, even bearing in mind the weak lofts (PW is 48*).

 

Apart from one stupidly fat 7i today, my irons were good. The course I was playing was set up tough for some sort of local tournament, and so scoring was difficult, but I hit some good shots and am happy with the way my game is coming back. 

 

Now, if money is on the line, I put my MP-4s in the bag, but the Pro 100s would also be a decent substitute, as would the Callaway X-Protos and Wilson FG-62s. Heck, the Wilson FG-17 lookalikes (Wilson FG-J8s) would also be fine with money or pride on the line.

Now, with any of the those, I might slip my Mizuno Pro Fli Hi (Mp 20 Fli HI) #4 in there instead of the blade 4i. I delofted it to 24*, and now it's quite a lot easier and just looks better behind the ball, more like a normal 4i.

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I have played the front nine with MP20 MB’s then the back nine with Apex MB’s. The scores usually end the same around level par these days. But I remember which club was easier for some shots. 
s300’s in MP’s.  Modus 120 x in Apex. 
the scoring irons (8,9,P) are much easier to control with the S300’s , longer irons (7,6,5,4)are easier to hit with the modus.   I really need to stick with one set for entire year. Probably the apex with modus setup.  The lighter shafts are easier on my joints these days. Approaching 39 this year. 

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Taylormade M4 tour 8.5*   Attas 4U 6X

Srixon Z H45  16*

Callaway Apex MB raw 4-PW  

Cleveland 588    52,60

Scotty Newport the art of putting


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I find it interesting how it almost really doesn't matter what folks use, even when both shaft and blade change.  By generations even.  It supports what I said in that you just get used to your own sets if you play them enough and learn their subtle differences.

 

And I can get behind that because I've played my mp67s with Rifle 5.0s just as well as both my Miura sets.  All sets have different drivers, woods, and putters too.

 

But for me, psychologically, I still want my gamer set and I have a heirarchy with all of them.  In the back of my mind is all the engineering that went into selecting and building them.  I cannot look at them without technically analyzing and comparing all their features to determine which is "best" (and "worst") based on pure physics.  And then I throw in my own playing experiences with all of them like the best and worst rounds I've had with which sets.

 

LOL so even if it doesn't matter (and I know it).  I'm gonna keep on rocking my Porn Stars on game day.  If it's in my head, it matters!

 

@NixLix26 FYI I am turning 50 soon and yeah I went to lighter Nippons from Rifles 5 years ago.  And my joints are happier.  Especially my left elbow.  

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TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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2 hours ago, DeNinny said:

FYI I am turning 50 soon

 

A mere child!!  😊

 

 

2 hours ago, DeNinny said:

 yeah I went to lighter Nippons from Rifles 5 years ago.  And my joints are happier.  Especially my left elbow.  

 

Its interesting that Nippon shafts seem to be better about vibration than True Temper.  Lighter certainly doesn't hurt, but I found it true even with the Super Peening Blues, which are definitely not light.

 

Been giving thought to a last gasp with steel, picking up a Nippon set to replace the SPBs in my TG-898 set, now that I need to back down from Xstiff...

 

  • Like 2

The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini 11.5*, 43.5", Phenom NL 60X -or- Cobra SpeedZone, ProtoPype 80S, 43.5"

Fwy woods: King LTD 3/4, RIP Beta 90X -or- TM Sim2 Ti 3w, NV105 X
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h, MMT 80 S 

Irons grab bag:  1-PW Golden Ram TW276, NV105 S; 1-PW Golden Ram TW282, RIP Tour 115 R; 2-PW Golden Ram Vibration Matched, NS Pro 950WF S
Wedges:  Dynacraft Dual Millled 52*, SteelFiber i125 S -or- Scratch 8620 DD 53*, SteelFiber i125 S; Cobra Snakebite 56* -or- Wilson Staff PMP 58*, Dynamic S -or- Ram TW282 SW -or- Ram TW276 SW
Putter:  Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34" -or- Cleveland Huntington Beach #1, 34.5" -or- Golden Ram TW Custom, 34" -or- Rife Bimini, 34" -or- Maxfli TM-2, 35"
Balls: Chrome Soft, Kirkland Signature 3pc (v3)

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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20 minutes ago, NRJyzr said:

 

A mere child!!  😊

 

 

 

Its interesting that Nippon shafts seem to be better about vibration than True Temper.  Lighter certainly doesn't hurt, but I found it true even with the Super Peening Blues, which are definitely not light.

 

Been giving thought to a last gasp with steel, picking up a Nippon set to replace the SPBs in my TG-898 set, now that I need to back down from Xstiff...

 

Oh I agree it's not just the weight!  And my technical mind wants to find the answer.  I think the shape will have some influence too, like whether there are steps to taper it vs a smooth taper.  Also the wall thickness and how it varies up and down the length of the shaft matters.

 

My theoretical model of impact starts with a collision between the round surface of the ball and the flat face of the club.  And at the first instance of impact, where the physical contact just starts, the first few iron atoms in the steel face literally push into the next few deeper into the face.  And then those deeper iron atoms then push into the ones even deeper.  It's like a domino effect or a "pulse wave" that's propagating through the clubhead, up the shaft, through the grip, and ultimately felt by your hands and bones.  And with the shaft being so long and made of steel, how that pulse wave propagates through it will matter based on its literal shape.  

 

This is also why graphite has a much better damping effect.  Not only does it have literal thicker walls for which to damp and spread out the feel of a pulse wave from impact, the literal carbon atoms in it and the molecular structure of them are more spread out than tightly packed iron atoms in steel.

 

So yeah, it's definitely not just weight.  It's shape and molecular structure and composition to a larger degree.

Edited by DeNinny

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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1 minute ago, DeNinny said:

Oh I agree it's not just the weight!  And my technical mind wants to find the answer.  I think the shape will have some influence too, like whether there are steps to taper it vs a smooth taper.  Also the wall thickness and how it varies up and down the length of the shaft matters.

 

My theoretical model of impact starts with a collision between the round surface of the ball and the flat face of the club.  And at the first instance of impact, where the physical contact just starts, the first few iron atoms in the steel face literally push into the next few deeper into the face.  And then those deeper iron atoms then push into the ones even deeper.  It's like a domino effect or a "pulse wave" that's propagating through the clubhead, up the shaft, through the grip, and ultimately felt by your hands and bones.  And with the shaft being so long and made of steel, how that pulse wave propagates through it will matter based on its literal shape.  

 

This is also why graphite has a much better damping effect.  Not only does it have literal thicker walls for which to damp and spread out the feel of a pulse wave from impact, the literal carbon atoms in it and the molecular structure are more spread out than tightly packed iron atoms in steel.

 

So yeah, it's definitely not just weight.

 

I can't remember where I saw it, but Nippon Shafts has shared diagram info to help show how they've manipulated wall thickness in some of their shafts.  

 

Over the years, many have reported lighter steel shafts having a harsher feel than their heavier siblings.  One place tech has helped is that seems less the case now, especially in Nippon shafts.

 

  • Like 1

The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini 11.5*, 43.5", Phenom NL 60X -or- Cobra SpeedZone, ProtoPype 80S, 43.5"

Fwy woods: King LTD 3/4, RIP Beta 90X -or- TM Sim2 Ti 3w, NV105 X
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h, MMT 80 S 

Irons grab bag:  1-PW Golden Ram TW276, NV105 S; 1-PW Golden Ram TW282, RIP Tour 115 R; 2-PW Golden Ram Vibration Matched, NS Pro 950WF S
Wedges:  Dynacraft Dual Millled 52*, SteelFiber i125 S -or- Scratch 8620 DD 53*, SteelFiber i125 S; Cobra Snakebite 56* -or- Wilson Staff PMP 58*, Dynamic S -or- Ram TW282 SW -or- Ram TW276 SW
Putter:  Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34" -or- Cleveland Huntington Beach #1, 34.5" -or- Golden Ram TW Custom, 34" -or- Rife Bimini, 34" -or- Maxfli TM-2, 35"
Balls: Chrome Soft, Kirkland Signature 3pc (v3)

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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1 minute ago, NRJyzr said:

 

I can't remember where I saw it, but Nippon Shafts has shared diagram info to help show how they've manipulated wall thickness in some of their shafts.  

 

Over the years, many have reported lighter steel shafts having a harsher feel than their heavier siblings.  One place tech has helped is that seems less the case now, especially in Nippon shafts.

 

Yes in pure theory the lighter shafts are going to effectively vibrate easier than a heavier counterpart, all other things equal.  So for sure it will be "felt" more.  Also if you supposedly swing a lighter shaft faster, then impact itself is going to be "harder".

 

And yeah I'd absolutely LOVE to see the entire three dimensional shapes of all my shafts!  Nippon is doing some things differently to make them feel like they do.  Same goes for all the other manufacturer's.  I can literally see taper steps and such.  But varying wall thickness is a bit of a challenge.

 

BTW thanks for making me feel like a "young" 50.  I'll remember that when I'm begging my wife for a backrub after 18 holes today.  😁

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TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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11 minutes ago, DeNinny said:

Yes in pure theory the lighter shafts are going to effectively vibrate easier than a heavier counterpart, all other things equal.  So for sure it will be "felt" more.  Also if you supposedly swing a lighter shaft faster, then impact itself is going to be "harder".

 

And yeah I'd absolutely LOVE to see the entire three dimensional shapes of all my shafts!  Nippon is doing some things differently to make them feel like they do.  Same goes for all the other manufacturer's.  I can literally see taper steps and such.  But varying wall thickness is a bit of a challenge.

 

BTW thanks for making me feel like a "young" 50.  I'll remember that when I'm begging my wife for a backrub after 18 holes today.  😁

 

Always glad to help a brother out.  LOL

 

Something I was going to mention earlier....  one reason I've hesitated moving to graphite is shaft weight.  I tend to do much better with heavier shafts and heavier clubs, even as I'm getting to the late 50s.  There are fewer and fewer such options, UST just did away with the Recoil 125, though you can still get the proto version in that weight.

 

Static weight is one reason I moved away from my NV105 experiment, I have to work a bit to keep from yanking the long irons left.  I should just suck it up and add 10-15g of lead tape on the shafts, centered on the balance point, as I've done with a couple drivers with sub-70g graphite...

 

Good luck on the back rub.  😁

 

Edited by NRJyzr
  • Like 1

The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini 11.5*, 43.5", Phenom NL 60X -or- Cobra SpeedZone, ProtoPype 80S, 43.5"

Fwy woods: King LTD 3/4, RIP Beta 90X -or- TM Sim2 Ti 3w, NV105 X
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h, MMT 80 S 

Irons grab bag:  1-PW Golden Ram TW276, NV105 S; 1-PW Golden Ram TW282, RIP Tour 115 R; 2-PW Golden Ram Vibration Matched, NS Pro 950WF S
Wedges:  Dynacraft Dual Millled 52*, SteelFiber i125 S -or- Scratch 8620 DD 53*, SteelFiber i125 S; Cobra Snakebite 56* -or- Wilson Staff PMP 58*, Dynamic S -or- Ram TW282 SW -or- Ram TW276 SW
Putter:  Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34" -or- Cleveland Huntington Beach #1, 34.5" -or- Golden Ram TW Custom, 34" -or- Rife Bimini, 34" -or- Maxfli TM-2, 35"
Balls: Chrome Soft, Kirkland Signature 3pc (v3)

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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28 minutes ago, NRJyzr said:

 

Always glad to help a brother out.  LOL

 

Something I was going to mention earlier....  one reason I've hesitated moving to graphite is shaft weight.  I tend to do much better with heavier shafts and heavier clubs, even as I'm getting to the late 50s.  There are fewer and fewer such options, UST just did away with the Recoil 125, though you can still get the proto version in that weight.

 

Static weight is one reason I moved away from my NV105 experiment, I have to work a bit to keep from yanking the long irons left.  I should just suck it up and add 10-15g of lead tape on the shafts, centered on the balance point, as I've done with a couple drivers with sub-70g graphite...

 

Good luck on the back rub.  😁

 

Yeah although, again in pure theory only, a lighter shaft will always take less overall energy (or work) to swing and thus you'll swing it faster, it does change momentum easier as well, so it *can* be problematic to those that are used to things heavier.  I can totally see how it could negatively impact your overall swing sequencing and timing.  You probably get "too fast" with lighter shafts at the wrong points in your swing sequence which causes those pulls with the long irons.  And unfortunately there's not going to be an easy solution for you to adjust because you'll have to revamp your swing and just practice until you transition to lighter clubs.  Also your lead tape tricks help.

 

It's so hard to make swing changes too!!!  For as long as this thread has existed I have worked hard to keep my feet more stable in the swing AND to shorten my backswing.  I can say that only now after 5-6 years I've made progress and it's finally paying off.  

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TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
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1 minute ago, DeNinny said:

Yeah although, again in pure theory only, a lighter shaft will always take less overall energy (or work) to swing and thus you'll swing it faster, it does change momentum easier as well, so it *can* be problematic to those that are used to things heavier.  I can totally see how it could negatively impact your overall swing sequencing and timing.  You probably get "too fast" with lighter shafts at the wrong points in your swing sequence which causes those pulls with the long irons.  And unfortunately there's not going to be an easy solution for you to adjust because you'll have to revamp your swing and just practice until you transition to lighter clubs.  Also your lead tape tricks help.

 

It's so hard to make swing changes too!!!  For as long as this thread has existed I have worked hard to keep my feet more stable in the swing AND to shorten my backswing.  I can say that only now after 5-6 years I've made progress and it's finally paying off.  

 

One thing I've done is borrow something from others who've done some weight experiments with his own game.  The idea is adding 1/3rd of the shaft weight reduction back to the clubheads.  I increased the swingweight of my NV105 set, but I stopped a bit short of that full 1/3rd of theshaft weight drop.  Have toyed with adding another few grams.

 

My choice is between another 2-4g to each head, or 10g to each shaft.  LOL

 

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The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini 11.5*, 43.5", Phenom NL 60X -or- Cobra SpeedZone, ProtoPype 80S, 43.5"

Fwy woods: King LTD 3/4, RIP Beta 90X -or- TM Sim2 Ti 3w, NV105 X
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h, MMT 80 S 

Irons grab bag:  1-PW Golden Ram TW276, NV105 S; 1-PW Golden Ram TW282, RIP Tour 115 R; 2-PW Golden Ram Vibration Matched, NS Pro 950WF S
Wedges:  Dynacraft Dual Millled 52*, SteelFiber i125 S -or- Scratch 8620 DD 53*, SteelFiber i125 S; Cobra Snakebite 56* -or- Wilson Staff PMP 58*, Dynamic S -or- Ram TW282 SW -or- Ram TW276 SW
Putter:  Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34" -or- Cleveland Huntington Beach #1, 34.5" -or- Golden Ram TW Custom, 34" -or- Rife Bimini, 34" -or- Maxfli TM-2, 35"
Balls: Chrome Soft, Kirkland Signature 3pc (v3)

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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42 minutes ago, NRJyzr said:

 

One thing I've done is borrow something from others who've done some weight experiments with his own game.  The idea is adding 1/3rd of the shaft weight reduction back to the clubheads.  I increased the swingweight of my NV105 set, but I stopped a bit short of that full 1/3rd of theshaft weight drop.  Have toyed with adding another few grams.

 

My choice is between another 2-4g to each head, or 10g to each shaft.  LOL

 

Yeah that game you are playing with lead tape is that of changing not only the MOI of the club (i.e. swingweight) as it rotates around the grip but also that of your swing itself as you rotate around the point between your shoulder sockets.  And the further complication to said game is that the MOI of your swing itself is changing as you go from a bent trail elbow and hinged wrists at the top to a near fully extended position at impact.  So any one singular change in weight AND/OR weight position is going to impact your overall swing sequence.  The physics of it all is intertwined.  Even that rule of thumb trick you learned about shaft vs head weighting isn't exactly the same when you break down how the different MOI physics of each changes in the context of each phase of the swing sequence.

 

So anyway the beauty of you using lead tape and having the sheer experience of it is that you can tweak it until it suits how you swing.  And then, my advice only, is that once you do optimize it, you *might* be able to, slowly over time, reduce that weight in small increments such that you barely notice the difference.  And with this, *maybe* your swing will slowly adjust to lighter weight shafts.  And then, you'll be able to take advantage of the swing speed improvement from the lighter weight.  But if you don't need the speed, don't mess with it!

Edited by DeNinny
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TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
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BTW @NRJyzr I put you and my buddy @BIG STU as WRX's premier lead tape experts, if you haven't consulted with him, I highly suggest it.  He's also a fellow blade user so hopefully by evoking his username in this post I can troll him back in here.

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TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
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Exactly, Brother @DeNinny, the lead tape accommodation is an MOI adaptation, attempting to get the lighter club closer to the (full club) MOI of the heavier club.

 

It's great fun.  🙂

 

Switching subjects....

 

I mentioned earlier, thinking of joining my course's men's club.  One of the aspects of the decision is the 2010 groove rule.  Most of my iron sets are older, in some cases much older.  I think the only irons I own that I was certain are conforming are the 2011 TaylorMade TP MC set.

 

I like them well enough, but not enough to play them regularly.  They haven't been able to unseat my Rams and Mizunos.

 

It brings to mind a possible problem.  I wouldn't want to put graphite shafts in a set that I wouldn't be able to use in events, once we get to 2024, and the "grace period" for older sticks not submitted for approval ends.  Assuming the ruling bodies don't add something to that ruling.

 

Three or four of my sets actually predate square grooves.  Having V grooves, even with a simple visual of the club faces, their effective conformity should be obvious.  People being people, I could see a self-appointed rules lawyer having a fit over them.  I wouldn't care to make an effort to join and be forced to buy new sticks to participate.

 

As it turns out, my 2005-ish MP-37s are listed in the USGA database, they conform to the 2010 rule.  Yay me.  

 

Short-story made long.   LOL

 

Sidenote: I think the groove rule was one of the two dumbest things done by the ruling bodies in the history of golf.  But if I'm to play sanctioned competition, even if the Condition of Competition is not invoked, I have to play by dem rulez.  One less thing to worry about. 

 

Edited by NRJyzr
  • Like 1

The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini 11.5*, 43.5", Phenom NL 60X -or- Cobra SpeedZone, ProtoPype 80S, 43.5"

Fwy woods: King LTD 3/4, RIP Beta 90X -or- TM Sim2 Ti 3w, NV105 X
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h, MMT 80 S 

Irons grab bag:  1-PW Golden Ram TW276, NV105 S; 1-PW Golden Ram TW282, RIP Tour 115 R; 2-PW Golden Ram Vibration Matched, NS Pro 950WF S
Wedges:  Dynacraft Dual Millled 52*, SteelFiber i125 S -or- Scratch 8620 DD 53*, SteelFiber i125 S; Cobra Snakebite 56* -or- Wilson Staff PMP 58*, Dynamic S -or- Ram TW282 SW -or- Ram TW276 SW
Putter:  Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34" -or- Cleveland Huntington Beach #1, 34.5" -or- Golden Ram TW Custom, 34" -or- Rife Bimini, 34" -or- Maxfli TM-2, 35"
Balls: Chrome Soft, Kirkland Signature 3pc (v3)

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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9 minutes ago, NRJyzr said:

Exactly, Brother @DeNinny, the lead tape accommodation is an MOI adaptation, attempting to get the lighter club closer to the (full club) MOI of the heavier club.

 

It's great fun.  🙂

 

Switching subjects....

 

I mentioned earlier, thinking of joining my course's men's club.  One of the aspects of the decision is the 2010 groove rule.  Most of my iron sets are older, in some cases much older.  I think the only irons I own that I was certain are conforming are the 2011 TaylorMade TP MC set.

 

I like them well enough, but not enough to play them regularly.  They haven't been able to unseat my Rams and Mizunos.

 

It brings to mind a possible problem.  I wouldn't want to put graphite shafts in a set that I wouldn't be able to use in events, once we get to 2024, and the "grace period" for older sticks not submitted for approval ends.  Assuming the ruling bodies don't add something to that ruling.

 

Three or four of my sets actually predate square grooves.  Having V grooves, even with a simple visual of the club faces, their effective conformity should be obvious.  People being people, I could see a self-appointed rules lawyer having a fit over them.  I wouldn't care to make an effort to join and be forced to buy new sticks to participate.

 

As it turns out, my 2005-ish MP-37s are listed in the USGA database, they conform to the 2010 rule.  Yay me.  

 

Short-story made long.   LOL

 

Sidenote: I think the groove rule was one of the two dumbest things done by the ruling bodies in the history of golf.  But if I'm to play sanctioned competition, even if the Condition of Competition is not invoked, I have to play by dem rulez.  One less thing to worry about. 

 

Oh no, you're gonna get me started now.  My rant engines are warming up.

 

While the grooves ruling had good initial intentions of stopping the advantage given by the groove fashion at the time, it had the nefarious effect of making completely fine older clubs as somehow obsolete and "unfair" to play.  And from a pure technical aspect that issue is sheer and utter NONSENSE.  So ultimately the ruling forces golfers that were using older clubs to upgrade and purchase even more clubs just for the purpose of being "conforming".  And the irony and travesty of all this is that it was the later club designs that drove the ruling to begin with!  It had NOTHING to do with older clubs!  It technically makes absolutely no sense and it leads me to believe that the club making industry has big influence over the rules makers.  They are going to influence the rules to their advantage and it's all to make golfers play only the new offerings or at least push them to it.  

 

This is one of the things that's turned me completely off the commercial aspect of the sport.  @BIG STU and I have had many rants over this topic in other threads.  Corporate commercial golf has been technical POISON to the sport.  It's what's made people ignorant of the technical superiority of blades too.    I'm to the point that I only like golf for the sport itself and the personal physical challenge it poses to me.  I couldn't care less about the professional sport or the latest "technology".  It's all too influenced by corporate greed.

 

My only silver lining in all this is that I *think* my BBs are still conforming.

 

End rant.

  • Like 1

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

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4 hours ago, NRJyzr said:

Exactly, Brother @DeNinny, the lead tape accommodation is an MOI adaptation, attempting to get the lighter club closer to the (full club) MOI of the heavier club.

 

It's great fun.  🙂

 

Switching subjects....

 

I mentioned earlier, thinking of joining my course's men's club.  One of the aspects of the decision is the 2010 groove rule.  Most of my iron sets are older, in some cases much older.  I think the only irons I own that I was certain are conforming are the 2011 TaylorMade TP MC set.

 

I like them well enough, but not enough to play them regularly.  They haven't been able to unseat my Rams and Mizunos.

 

It brings to mind a possible problem.  I wouldn't want to put graphite shafts in a set that I wouldn't be able to use in events, once we get to 2024, and the "grace period" for older sticks not submitted for approval ends.  Assuming the ruling bodies don't add something to that ruling.

 

Three or four of my sets actually predate square grooves.  Having V grooves, even with a simple visual of the club faces, their effective conformity should be obvious.  People being people, I could see a self-appointed rules lawyer having a fit over them.  I wouldn't care to make an effort to join and be forced to buy new sticks to participate.

 

As it turns out, my 2005-ish MP-37s are listed in the USGA database, they conform to the 2010 rule.  Yay me.  

 

Short-story made long.   LOL

 

Sidenote: I think the groove rule was one of the two dumbest things done by the ruling bodies in the history of golf.  But if I'm to play sanctioned competition, even if the Condition of Competition is not invoked, I have to play by dem rulez.  One less thing to worry about. 

 

 

Pretty sure the MP37s are conforming. They *might* even be on the list. Most of the earlier Mizunos are conforming, certainly the MP line anyway.

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4 minutes ago, No_Catchy_Nickname said:

 

Pretty sure the MP37s are conforming. They *might* even be on the list. Most of the earlier Mizunos are conforming, certainly the MP line anyway.

 

Yes, I found them on the list, tagged as "conforming to the 2010 groove rule."

 

MP32 and MP33 are also listed as conforming.

 

I didn't commit them all to memory, I was looking specifically for the 37s, noticed the 32s and 33s listed just prior. 🙂

 

The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini 11.5*, 43.5", Phenom NL 60X -or- Cobra SpeedZone, ProtoPype 80S, 43.5"

Fwy woods: King LTD 3/4, RIP Beta 90X -or- TM Sim2 Ti 3w, NV105 X
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h, MMT 80 S 

Irons grab bag:  1-PW Golden Ram TW276, NV105 S; 1-PW Golden Ram TW282, RIP Tour 115 R; 2-PW Golden Ram Vibration Matched, NS Pro 950WF S
Wedges:  Dynacraft Dual Millled 52*, SteelFiber i125 S -or- Scratch 8620 DD 53*, SteelFiber i125 S; Cobra Snakebite 56* -or- Wilson Staff PMP 58*, Dynamic S -or- Ram TW282 SW -or- Ram TW276 SW
Putter:  Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34" -or- Cleveland Huntington Beach #1, 34.5" -or- Golden Ram TW Custom, 34" -or- Rife Bimini, 34" -or- Maxfli TM-2, 35"
Balls: Chrome Soft, Kirkland Signature 3pc (v3)

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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