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Sim2Max Driver Loft Adjustments


Brenkj

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Yes. Set it to higher loft.  Here’s a guide.

https://www.customclubs.eu/en/news/guide-how-to-adjust-taylormade-sim-driver/

 

edit: sorry I mis-read your goals.

Edited by Snowman9000

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Nope. You can't have the loft without the face closure coming with it. Lofting up will promote the head falling more closed, just as lofting down will promote more open. Really need to get a higher lofted head, or really focus on moving your strike point higher on the head where the face roll will give you some more loft.

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I would say get the draw out if the miss is a hook and is seemingly problematic, if its only slight then keep the loft sleeve where it is and then goto Billy Bobs and get a little heavier rear weight to help with the launch (also weakening the shaft you have)...thats another avenue as well if new head and shaft is out fo the question.

 

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Thanks for the responses.      

 

Quick follow-up question:   The seller of the club didn't have the wrench that comes with it.   I was able to use the wrench that came with my TS2 driver to adjust the loft settings, but that Titleist wrench doesn't fit the two weights on the club head (the large one on the back and smaller one on the bottom).   Does the Sim2 Max come with two wrenches?    How am I supposed to remove those two weights if I decide I want to swap in heavier or lights ones for better feel?      Thanks.

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On 11/25/2021 at 3:21 PM, Brenkj said:

Does the Sim2 Max come with two wrenches?  

 

No.  Those weights were not intended to be user adjustable.

 

On 11/25/2021 at 3:21 PM, Brenkj said:

 How am I supposed to remove those two weights if I decide I want to swap in heavier or lights ones for better feel?  

 

Find a Torx t20 security bit.   May need a little heat to help get them loose as some type of lok-tite is used during construction.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 11/27/2021 at 5:03 AM, Stuart_G said:

 

No.  Those weights were not intended to be user adjustable.

 

 

Find a Torx t20 security bit.   May need a little heat to help get them loose as some type of lok-tite is used during construction.

Stuart_G:    I'm circling back to this because, after hitting the Sim2 Max a bunch now, I do think I could use a bit more swing weight.   Where would I buy a Torx t20 bit?    And what's the best way to heat up the current weights?   I want to make sure I don't do anything to damage the driver when I'm doing this.   Thanks!

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Just now, Brenkj said:

Stuart_G:    I'm circling back to this because, after hitting the Sim2 Max a bunch now, I do think I could use a bit more swing weight.   Where would I buy a Torx t20 bit?    And what's the best way to heat up the current weights?   I want to make sure I don't do anything to damage the driver when I'm doing this.   Thanks!

Any hardware store will carry those.  Also, a heat gun on low setting should do the trick. 

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5 minutes ago, Brenkj said:

Where would I buy a Torx t20 bit?  

 

Pretty much any hardware store should have them.  Just realize you want tht t20 torx security bit.  That has a hole in the tip for the pin.  May only find it in a set of bits instead of individually.

 

5 minutes ago, Brenkj said:

And what's the best way to heat up the current weights?  

 

Heat gun or torch are the most common methods but I've heard of some people actually using a hairdryer although that would likely take longer.    Butane/propane torch only needs a few seconds.   heat gun maybe a minute depending on the settings.

 

 

Edited by Stuart_G
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20 minutes ago, OspreyCI said:

FYI, my front weight came out with no heat.

 

I've removed many of those weights w/o heat.   It's not required but it makes it much less likely for the bit to strip the receiver on the weight as some are easier than others to get loose (especially if the technique is a little less than ideal).

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That front weight is located awful close to where the carbon sole plate is glued to the metal part of the head, I would be leery of getting too wild with heat near that joint. And the speed slot rubber insert thing is also right there.

 

Slap some lead tape on that thing til you get the exact feel you want then weigh the tape and tackle the weight replacement. My 2c 

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^ Not to question Stu'd advice cause hes a wealth of knowledge, just never know whos gonna be running the torch and their awareness of the sensitive materials nearby. 🧯

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21 hours ago, Brenkj said:

I've never been clear on what MOI means.   If my driver issues are (1) I need to elevate the ball a little more (higher trajectory), and (2) I need a little less spin in general, am I better off adding a heavier weight in the back, or in the front (on the sole of the club)?       Thanks.


Generally, higher trajectory, weight back. Less spin, weight forward. 
 

Probably not what you wanted to hear, since you need both. 

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22 hours ago, Brenkj said:

I've never been clear on what MOI means.   If my driver issues are (1) I need to elevate the ball a little more (higher trajectory), and (2) I need a little less spin in general, am I better off adding a heavier weight in the back, or in the front (on the sole of the club)?       Thanks.


Unless you're planning on adding a lot of weight, neither location will have a meaningful impact so you can choose either. 

You'll also need to contend with the fact that your goals are initially conflicting. Launch and spin are connected, so if you raise launch then you will also raise spin. The only way around this is to raise launch by hitting up on the ball more or striking higher on the face. Higher strikes will launch higher and spin less, so that solves both your problems right there. If your launch is low and your spin is too high then you could simply be striking the ball poorly (low on the face) and you'll want to address that first. As for adding weight, you can either start with slowly adding pieces of lead tape to the head until it feels the best/produces the best results and then remove the tape, weigh it, and replace with an equivalent weight, or simply buy a selection of weights to experiment with. 

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Any weight that is somewhat “fixed”, with no real weight track to move around in will likely have loctite securing it, heat is a must to avoid stripping the screw head. For example, the weights in the OG M1 had no loctite as they were adjustable, however, the M2 rear weight was glued in place. 

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