Paint fill 101

[bluesmp4]

Here's the finish product....black steel shaft with blacked out ping grip. Absolutely loving it!!

[vol_in_ar]

did my wife's clubs this weekend...

didn't turn out great, I'm going to redo them

[madjsp]

Just ordered some Tamiya paint! I'm excited to paint my irons and putter.

[John O. M.]

So I just picked up my Tamiya paints yesterday, as I mentioned before I really liked the transparent look to the colors so I am going to give it a shot.

I started the process last night, using some of the guide from the OP and some recommendations from others.

Two suggestions that I have tried and so far haven't loved the results of:

1. Applying white paint to the areas first to "really provide a pop" to the clear paints.
I can't say that I really love this idea. I asked a couple different forums for example pictures of this etc and never got a response. I applied the flat white to the area first and then applied the blue/red paints over the white. The problem that I had was that the clear paints don't settle in to the grooves or the applied areas as well I had hoped. Doesn't seem to really form that tight bond, plus I noticed an increase in air bubbles. Maybe I don't have the right process for this method, so if anyone has examples of this or some more info I'd greatly appreciate it!

2. Applying the rubbing alcohol to the areas first to prevent air bubbles and increase that glassy look.
I didn't really see that result either. I took a q-tip and dipped it in the rubbing alcohol, I squeezed it with my fingers to ring out it so I couldn't apply too much, and then applied the clear paints (without the white base). The paint seems to thin out but also doesn't seem to spread around as easily. Kind of a weird reaction actually, hard to describe. Maybe I still had too much or not enough rubbing alcohol, not sure.


But so far I really LOVE the tamiya paints. My old target nail polish worked very easily and was very easy to use and clean. These are just as easy to apply, even though I am using a syringe with a small gauge needle, but they are also very easy to clean. Some areas when it hardens is a little stubborn to remove, but using the old t-shirt method to clean up the areas is working great. I used to use a paper towel which worked pretty well, but it did leave lint behind in the paint occasionally. The t-shirt works great.

So I am working on the back cavity right now, I have applied the blue which looks great but when I woke up this morning I noticed one little air bubble The white was done first before everything else, and the red I did this morning and I will check on this afternoon.


Also, on a side note, don't use a hair dryer to dry the clear paints! The OP mentioned that the acrylics require time or can be dried quickly by applying heat... well that doesn't work as well as I had hoped lol. It does create a really really cool bubble effect to it, but not what I intended. I'll show you a picture of how that looks.

The picture is when I had the white behind everything, trying to provide that extra "pop" but has since been removed. Anyone else thing the bubbles kind of look cool? I wouldn't game it like that but it's neat anyway

[John O. M.]

Thanks to the OP, I used your guide to do my latest paint fill on my scotty. I couldn't be happier with the results, the Tamiya paints look much better than the nail polish that I used prior. Here's some views of the scotty as well as a few other clubs that I messed with while the putter was drying.

I tried the suggestion of adding white to the areas first and then using the clears, but I didn't like the results in the cherry bombs so I removed it. I did however use the white behind the lettering in "Scotty" you can kind of see how the blue is pretty bright there.

Anyway, thanks again to everyone who contributed advice.

[John O. M.]

Here's the finished face and a glimpse of it outside in the sun during the clean up process.

[JaxBeachNole]

[quote name='John O. M.' timestamp='1337480893' post='4944192']
Here's the finished face and a glimpse of it outside in the sun during the clean up process.
[/quote]

Nice, did you use something to remove the paint on the red and blue parts?

[John O. M.]

[quote name='JaxBeachNole' timestamp='1337518788' post='4945404']
[quote name='John O. M.' timestamp='1337480893' post='4944192']
Here's the finished face and a glimpse of it outside in the sun during the clean up process.
[/quote]

Nice, did you use something to remove the paint on the red and blue parts?
[/quote]

Yes, I removed all paint from the putter. It's a must. Never just paint over old paint, you'll never get the results that you want. I used nail polish remover (acetone) to remove the paints first. I put the putter in a ziploc bag and filled it with the acetone and just let it sit for 45 mins. The majority of the paint just came off. Some stubborn areas I used a toothpick to pick the paint out and then I wiped it down with more acetone and a tshirt.

[MaitriMike]

[quote name='John O. M.' timestamp='1337528222' post='4945886']
[quote name='JaxBeachNole' timestamp='1337518788' post='4945404']
[quote name='John O. M.' timestamp='1337480893' post='4944192']
Here's the finished face and a glimpse of it outside in the sun during the clean up process.
[/quote]

Nice, did you use something to remove the paint on the red and blue parts?
[/quote]

Yes, I removed all paint from the putter. It's a must. Never just paint over old paint, you'll never get the results that you want. I used nail polish remover (acetone) to remove the paints first. I put the putter in a ziploc bag and filled it with the acetone and just let it sit for 45 mins. The majority of the paint just came off. Some stubborn areas I used a toothpick to pick the paint out and then I wiped it down with more acetone and a tshirt.
[/quote]

Just sent you a PM but figured I should ask here too and see if anyone else has run into this.

I recently picked up a 2012 Newport Notchback Scotty Cameron. I plan to redo the paintfills and letters. My question is, since it is a black finish, these translucent colors will not be as bright on the black finish right? Will i need to put a white base on it first, then paint it with the blue since its a dark finish. Most of the nice paintfills I've seen here are on the silver finish. Let me know what you guys think or opinions. Thanks in advance. Great work all of you btw!

[Deerslayer]

Some nice work here. I will give a few tips that no one has mentioned.

Toothpicks are o. k. but.... If you are doing quite a bit of work, precise work, stainless steel needle applicators are the way to go. A-west makes some good ones for around $3 ea.

Bigtime Tricks:
I'f doing big dots like on the back of a Cameron Laguna, do your fill, let it dry and then take acetone and flood all three dots with with the acetone for two seconds and then flip the head over dumping the acetone. Lightly blow on the dots a few seconds. This will give the dots a mirror smooth finish. You can also do this to aged paint filled dots to rejuvenate them.

If you want to do a fade, start with your dark color. Paint fill the area and completely let it dry. THEN fill your other color and use your needle to drag the darker dried fill in blending it. If you try to fill both colors one after another, they bleed together too much.
Same process to do flames or swirls

Biggest thing I see people doing is fill running all out of the lettering and either trying to clean it too early with acetone or letting the blob dry and then compromising the fill because you are left with so much over fill. The fix is easy. Once you fill lettering, it is o.k. to over fill, just instantly drag just your finger across the top like a squeegee. This makes it where you just have a very light cleanup with a acetone sheet.


I could go on and on, but these are some tricks that make a huge difference

[ladahl]

These really are good tips... I really liike the one about running your finger over upon filling the laetters THEN using acetone when it's more dry

I could especially see this helpful with shallow stampings.... Keeps you from pulling too much out with the acetone soaked towel... Thanks DSer
[quote name='Deerslayer' timestamp='1337976263' post='4977976']
Some nice work here. I will give a few tips that no one has mentioned.

Toothpicks are o. k. but.... If you are doing quite a bit of work, precise work, stainless steel needle applicators are the way to go. A-west makes some good ones for around $3 ea.

Bigtime Tricks:
I'f doing big dots like on the back of a Cameron Laguna, do your fill, let it dry and then take acetone and flood all three dots with with the acetone for two seconds and then flip the head over dumping the acetone. Lightly blow on the dots a few seconds. This will give the dots a mirror smooth finish. You can also do this to aged paint filled dots to rejuvenate them.

If you want to do a fade, start with your dark color. Paint fill the area and completely let it dry. THEN fill your other color and use your needle to drag the darker dried fill in blending it. If you try to fill both colors one after another, they bleed together too much.
Same process to do flames or swirls

Biggest thing I see people doing is fill running all out of the lettering and either trying to clean it too early with acetone or letting the blob dry and then compromising the fill because you are left with so much over fill. The fix is easy. Once you fill lettering, it is o.k. to over fill, just instantly drag just your finger across the top like a squeegee. This makes it where you just have a very light cleanup with a acetone sheet.


I could go on and on, but these are some tricks that make a huge difference
[/quote]

[Deerslayer]

Here are a couple of DIY instructions I did 4 years ago for paint filling and DIY blackening:

 

 

 

[Russ757]

^^^^ Right click > View Image > File > Print


thanks for the handy sheet DS

[baseballfrk8998]

Just torched and painted a couple of my X Forged wedges this morning. It's been a long time since I've done any sort of paintfill.

 

[John O. M.]

very nice! did that yourself?? looks awesome

[baseballfrk8998]

[quote name='John O. M.' timestamp='1338071458' post='4982374']
very nice! did that yourself?? looks awesome
[/quote]

Yes, I took the torch to it for about 10 minutes or so and then did the paintfill. I couldn't decide what color to use so I just grabbed the orange and it came out looking pretty good. Too bad the orange doesn't match anything in my bag!

[Chris92009]

This isvavgreat thread!

[JaxBeachNole]

Does the USGA conforming qualify for art projects like this:
http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/649520-black-r11s-from-wells-fargo-pic/page__st__120__p__4983120__hl__conforming__fromsearch__1#entry4983120

[kenucks]

Hi guys,

Does anyone have any good tips for putting a paintfill on a SC newport 2 classic (carbon steel) anyone done it before? thanks.. any pics?

I removed the paint already as some paint on letters came off so decided to take them off completely... i actually like the paintless look too hahaha

[Texasparrott]

Going to do this to some MP-57's that I recently had stripped, refurbished and finished with Melonite (Nitride Salt Bath). No need to remove the paint, as it came off with the chrome

Got the tamiya paint (gloss blue and flat white). Not sure if I'm going to fill the mizuno logo on the sole... Anybody have 2 cents on that? If I do, should I put the extra hard clear nail polish stuff on it?

[Griffin23]

I want to do the paint fill on my Cleveland cg-15 wedges, I just want to know if when I strip the old paint will it mess up the black oxide finish?

[AcesHigh]

im gonna give this a shot

[longhornmike]

I just finished my RBZ tour head with a matte black finish and Texas orange paint. The finish added about 2 headweight points but i think it looks much better than white. Did the same to my R11s but used a different orange and looks too much like the other UT!!

[j.lapp]

^ that R11s looks meeaaannnn. Nice work

[TLAU]

Clubs look sick Mike. Was in this thread all day yesterday. Got inspired. MP37s have seen too many moons and the black paint had begun chipping off. Inspired by some LSU themed Vokeys on page 3 or 4 I think, led me to the arts and crafts store to get some Auburn materials. Turned out better than expected. Just need the top clear polish coat to dry for the finishing touches. Thanks to all the contributors/tips in the thread. Here are the sticks. They kinda give me a semi-boner

edit: server won't let me url the images... assistance?

[phibulls]

After looking through the first 10 pages of this thread (and learning alot) but taking up a lot of time, I finally found what I was looking for on the last page. If this has been asked previously, I apologize. I live in FL and really need to cut down the glare that comes off my Studio Select.

Deerslayer, thanks for posting that sheet. Couple of questions: Will the stainless steel blackener method work to reduce the glare (I assume so)? Is it reversible after you apply the finish? What is the 2-stroke oil needed for? I didn't see it in the instructions. Finally, can I apply the finish with the paintfill on, or should I remove all the paintfill, apply the finish, then re-apply new paintfill?

Mike: How did you apply the matte black finish to your driver? Looks sick. I want to do it to my 910.

Thanks for the advice fellas! Great thread OP.

[macglock]

Redid the GoLo

[longhornmike]

[quote name='phibulls' timestamp='1339650823' post='5089720']
After looking through the first 10 pages of this thread (and learning alot) but taking up a lot of time, I finally found what I was looking for on the last page. If this has been asked previously, I apologize. I live in FL and really need to cut down the glare that comes off my Studio Select.

Deerslayer, thanks for posting that sheet. Couple of questions: Will the stainless steel blackener method work to reduce the glare (I assume so)? Is it reversible after you apply the finish? What is the 2-stroke oil needed for? I didn't see it in the instructions. Finally, can I apply the finish with the paintfill on, or should I remove all the paintfill, apply the finish, then re-apply new paintfill?

Mike: How did you apply the matte black finish to your driver? Looks sick. I want to do it to my 910.

Thanks for the advice fellas! Great thread OP.
[/quote]

I just followed the post by Deerslayer, really isnt tough at all. His post goes in depth but essentially just sand the original finish with 120 grit, tape the head (by far most important to have a good look) and then prime and paint. I put a light coat of primer, wait 10 minutes and then do a slightly heavier coat. One day later i will sand with 310 grit paper before starting 3 coats of the matte black Krylon spraypaint. I do one light coat followed by another slightly heavier coat 15 minutes later and then a heavy coat 15 minutes after that. Once done, make sure its in a good sunny spot so it begins to cure. After 24 hours, do a very light wet sand (600grit) and then let it sit in a sunny spot with good ventilation for a week or so. Biggest mistake people make is thinking you can hit them after 2 days because the paint feels dry. Needs to cure for about a week to not have any issues.

[phibulls]

Thanks Mike.

[Texasparrott]

Debating the addition of any paintfill at all. Going to do a couple and see how they look.