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New and Improved Shaft Chart


smoky25

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[quote name='Howard Jones' timestamp='1426180118' post='11129213']
DG Pro might work, if you are comfortable about a shaft in the 120 grams range, but if the video was taken when you played DGS300, it does not seem like you are in the need for a lighter shaft, but "what ever works" AND feel right, and gives the dispersion you as a sum is comfortable playing is the right choice. They might work better for you than DGS300 and you always have the option of a little loft tweak. If you do it all by yourself, and whats help for MOI matching or progressive SW, just open up another tread and ask for help to what ever you need help for. Im quite a bit from Rungsted, far up in North Jutland.
[/quote]

UPDATE:

So I soft-stepped the C-Taper's, leaving the 3 iron head in the box with some others :)

Re calibrated SW to D4 as they were a mess from 3.5 to 5 ( Nike , c'mon!!! )

So in average is +1SW point for the set, plus the softstepping --> -0.4 FCM to 5.8

Fligth apex went up visibly to 4 feet more, as Howard stated 1ft gain pr 0.1 FCM drop . Hit one of the best 4 irons of my life, 200 exact yds carry from the deck yesterday.

Now I love them, the fitting wasnt bad after all.

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Anyone know where the respective flexes of the KBS Tour V might fall in this chart? Guessing they are similar to the Tour, flex wise at least. Thanks.

Cobra King LTD 9*, Fujikura Ventus TR Red 6X
Cobra King Tec 17*, Fujikura Axiom 105S

Adams A12 19*, Diamana Thump X
TM TP MC/MB, Fujikura Axiom 105S 
Vokey 250.08, SM9 54-S & 60-V, DG S400
Toulon Palm Beach

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[quote name='Puppetmaster' timestamp='1426905235' post='11183679']
Anyone know where the respective flexes of the KBS Tour V might fall in this chart? Guessing they are similar to the Tour, flex wise at least. Thanks.
[/quote]

Use Hirekos DFSI list if you want butt CPM compare. Iron shafts starts at page 13
If you compare 2 shafts where flex is close, the one with highest T/B Ratio (tipp to butt) will be the highest launching of the 2.

[url="http://www.hirekogolf.com/media/pdf/2014SFAchapter5.pdf"]http://www.hirekogol...SFAchapter5.pdf[/url]

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@StuartG

Here is a Grafalloy compare of the classics plus the new Speed Coat as Low to Low mid launch, the BLUE is the original in 60 grams, at the bottom its the BLUE 75 X. Ive tried to sort them weak to strong. All specs from Tom Wishons fantastic shaft profile software

[attachment=2673743:BLUE large Grafalloy Compare.PNG]

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[quote name='Howard Jones' timestamp='1426942097' post='11185223']
[quote name='Puppetmaster' timestamp='1426905235' post='11183679']
Anyone know where the respective flexes of the KBS Tour V might fall in this chart? Guessing they are similar to the Tour, flex wise at least. Thanks.
[/quote]

Use Hirekos DFSI list if you want butt CPM compare. Iron shafts starts at page 13
If you compare 2 shafts where flex is close, the one with highest T/B Ratio (tipp to butt) will be the highest launching of the 2.

[url="http://www.hirekogolf.com/media/pdf/2014SFAchapter5.pdf"]http://www.hirekogol...SFAchapter5.pdf[/url]
[/quote]

That is a helpful document overall, thanks so much, Howard.

Cobra King LTD 9*, Fujikura Ventus TR Red 6X
Cobra King Tec 17*, Fujikura Axiom 105S

Adams A12 19*, Diamana Thump X
TM TP MC/MB, Fujikura Axiom 105S 
Vokey 250.08, SM9 54-S & 60-V, DG S400
Toulon Palm Beach

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Howard,

You seem to be a very knowledgeable person, and I am in need of someone to make a little sense of what I have swimming in my head right now haha.

Some background:
Single digit handicap, irons are a stronger part of my game
Using a Mizuno shaft optimizer and Trackman, my 6i club speed is 92mph.
My tempo is what many what call medium pace.
My release is also in the middle.
I swing on a steep plane (which I am working on currently)
Suggested shafts from the optimizer were Nippon 1150 X (soft stepped 1 time), DGS300, PX5.5 non-flighted
I currently play Amp Cell Pro irons at standard specs with Tour Issue DGS300 shafts.
**My current miss is a push to the right
**Given my swing speed I am only getting ~180y out of a 6i (numbers from on the course and Trackman)

I just had a fitting at Club Champion in MD. At this fitting it was recommended that I take the swingweight up from D3 to D4 across all of the irons and wedges, soft step the irons 1 time, and flatten my lies .5*

I asked about going flatter because I always seem to adapt my swing to my clubs, and thought it would aid in my transition to a flatter downswing. The fitter said no he wanted to do only what numbers the fitting gave him. By going say 2* flat of Cobra standard that is really only .5* flatter than my old mizuno mp59 set and would bump the swing weight closer to the recommended D4.

I guess what I really should be saying/asking here is...
Given my dedication to practice and willingness to flatten out my swing, does it make sense to only flatten them .5* only to have to flatten them more later? And it seems raising the swingweight and softstepping would make the irons play pretty soft vs how they feel now.

Any help or opinions on this?

Thanks for your time, I appreciate it.

Tyler

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[quote name='Mr.Mizzy' timestamp='1427153254' post='11200875']
Howard,

You seem to be a very knowledgeable person, and I am in need of someone to make a little sense of what I have swimming in my head right now haha.

Some background:
Single digit handicap, irons are a stronger part of my game
Using a Mizuno shaft optimizer and Trackman, my 6i club speed is 92mph.
My tempo is what many what call medium pace.
My release is also in the middle.
I swing on a steep plane (which I am working on currently)
Suggested shafts from the optimizer were Nippon 1150 X (soft stepped 1 time), DGS300, PX5.5 non-flighted
I currently play Amp Cell Pro irons at standard specs with Tour Issue DGS300 shafts.
**My current miss is a push to the right
**Given my swing speed I am only getting ~180y out of a 6i (numbers from on the course and Trackman)

I just had a fitting at Club Champion in MD. At this fitting it was recommended that I take the swingweight up from D3 to D4 across all of the irons and wedges, soft step the irons 1 time, and flatten my lies .5*

I asked about going flatter because I always seem to adapt my swing to my clubs, and thought it would aid in my transition to a flatter downswing. The fitter said no he wanted to do only what numbers the fitting gave him. By going say 2* flat of Cobra standard that is really only .5* flatter than my old mizuno mp59 set and would bump the swing weight closer to the recommended D4.

I guess what I really should be saying/asking here is...
Given my dedication to practice and willingness to flatten out my swing, does it make sense to only flatten them .5* only to have to flatten them more later? And it seems raising the swingweight and softstepping would make the irons play pretty soft vs how they feel now.

Any help or opinions on this?

Thanks for your time, I appreciate it.

Tyler
[/quote]

I might have strong opinions about a few things in shaft fitting, so its not always easy to be "diplomatic" when i see things that does not make any sense, based on what i know and my own experience on the subject.

The optimizer
Im not a big fan of the Mizuno optimizer, it makes no sense in my world, since the most important factor seems to be butt CPM, while weight dont seems to be a parameter of importance, since suggestions vary by 15 grams shaft weight, and to me thats a lot and more than i mean is realistic for the same player. Since we cant predict how a player will respond to the profile and feel of flex of the shaft, they keep it open just like i doo, but why do they measure all they do and not using it to find the profile that fits your "swing DNA" as they call it? It might be good for retail shops where the lack of knowledge is large, so they get a starting point, but thats about it, so dont get hung up in those suggestions at all. S300 was one of them, and you know what you got, so just ask yourself if they are the shaft for you, or if you would like a lighter shaft or another feel, and then you know the direction to look.

My way of shaft fitting
The way i mean shaft fitting has to be done is first length, then shaft weight, then club balance. Now we can test different shaft options in the weight range we found,(within plus minus 5 grams max) and see how they work for this player with the other specs "fixed". We seek a good tempo timing, and a stabilized impact on the face, good feel and dispersion. Leave launch, spin and ball flight to the club head by tweaking lofts.(thats why lofts are different from 3 to PW :-))

SW Value & SW vs Lie angles
Lie angles influence on SW value, and going flat raises SW, so if you are going that way, make lie angle tweak before SW, or you will have to do SW tweak twice. I also suggest you look up the tread about MOI matching and progressive SW value.
i think MOI / Progressive SW is superior to flat SW values. What we seek is equal feel, and consistency, but a #3 iron at D4 and a #9 iron as D4 is NOT the same no matter how much the SW scale say it is. Its a old instrument with limitations the user can overrule by knowledge, so its still useful, but not the way it was meant to be used.
http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/1153353-moi-matching-calculating-moment-of-inertia/

Lie angles
Use a ball marker who can make a strait line on the ball using a whiteboard pen, and align it up/down as strait as possible to see if lie angles is good for your swing or not. If the line-top point against the toe, go more flat until the line is strait.

I hope my answer helped you out with your questions

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Thank you for the prompt and detailed response. It is so interesting to me that there truly isn't a standard in Clubfitting. I have read articles by several people claiming to be great club fitters (I say claim because I don't know them or know anyone that knows them, not as a knock on them) who denounce MOI as total hogwash, yet you and several others including Mr. Wishon agree with MOI as a method of fitting. It just send kinda crazy that no organization (PGA) has come forward with the scientific evidence to overwhelmingly support one way of doing things so that the majority of fitters do things similarly. I'm sure it is like teaching the golf swing to a certain extent, where people will use a basis of knowledge to teach in their own way, but this just feels like it should be able to be more scientific.

Again I appreciate your time. Thank you.

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[quote name='Mr.Mizzy' timestamp='1427195616' post='11203685']
Thank you for the prompt and detailed response. It is so interesting to me that there truly isn't a standard in Clubfitting. I have read articles by several people claiming to be great club fitters (I say claim because I don't know them or know anyone that knows them, not as a knock on them) who denounce MOI as total hogwash, yet you and several others including Mr. Wishon agree with MOI as a method of fitting. It just send kinda crazy that no organization (PGA) has come forward with the scientific evidence to overwhelmingly support one way of doing things so that the majority of fitters do things similarly. I'm sure it is like teaching the golf swing to a certain extent, where people will use a basis of knowledge to teach in their own way, but this just feels like it should be able to be more scientific.

Again I appreciate your time. Thank you.
[/quote]

Ignorance and lack of knowledge is why they think its hogwash.
When Lorry Adams invented the SW scale (about 100 years ago, not sure, cant remember exactly when), they new about MOI, but thats was way before microprocessors, or excel spread sheets, so the math behind it made it way to complicated.

Thats why they tried several mechanical methods with different fulcrum length to find a "short cut" or something close to be able to match clubs to the same heft or resistance if you prefer that term. Nobody knows for sure why it was Lorry Adams "Lorry scale" with a fulcrum at 14" we ended up with, but its been used since then. Today we have computers everywhere, and excel is just as common as word for letters, so there is no reason not to do it right, like it always was meant to be done, [u]actual matching of heft of clubs who got different length and weight like a set of irons[/u]. You should ask the same folks who think MOI match is nonsense, if they think SW matching is important and why, or if it does not matter either if you play D0 or D4, and you will most likely get an answer who tells they dont really know what MOI matching is, and then they dont really understand SW matching either.

MOI matching is also for players on the Tour. I had a young lady, a BIG talent who turned Pro 18 years old after winning several professional tournaments as a amateur. Like most others she wanted to improve and get even better as a pro, but after changing gear her play did not come close to what it has been. For 2 seasons she was struggling with her game, and almost gave up Golf as a professional with mostly high scores and not even close to winning anything.

By coincident she came to my shop for help to get a check on her stuff and it did not take long to see that the bag as a hole was NOT for the same player. Something worked good, something OK, others stuff not at all. The short answer WHY, was huge differences to actual heft or MOI, caused by wrong total weight/shaft weight and head weight. Most of it was "dead on" D3 so it should have bin just fine? NO, it does not work like that, so after rebuilding all of her stuff to a MOI that was good for her, the game changes to the better, and she ended #3 on LET access tour for 2014, so now she is on the highest level, The European Tour for ladies.

F.ex, she could not hit her driving iron a 712u/21* for her life, now the same club is her "go to club", and the one used from the tee on days her swing with the driver is not as it should be on this level. Last tournament she played without the driver with this 712u/21* as the longest club in the bag, and played 6 under par on her best round, because irons, wedges and driving iron works since they are MOI matched to fit the player, while the SW method made the same driving iron unplayable.
We still struggle to make her new 915 driver and 3W to work as wanted, but she gained strength during this winter, so we will try a bit more shaft weight and resistance to get it right after the tournament she is out to play this weak.

Those who say MOI matching is hogwash, dont understand what it really is, and they dont understand swing weight either, since it was a quasi method to get close to actual MOI from the days before the microprocessor could help us with the math, but the SW scale could only get close, but the longer distance there is between 2 clubs in length and total weight, the more out of course will the SW scale send us. Sw matching is one of the reasons #4 and #3 irons is to hard for many players to hit well.
Actual resistance/MOI in a SW matched set goes UP the longer the club is, so at one point, the player cant handle the resistance the club needs to get moving like it should, and then they cant keep up the needed club speed progression from #5 to #4, or #4 to #3 to make that club work, and make a solid impact to the ball. Progressive SW is still a quasi or "ghetto method" for MOI, but we get WAY closer, and you will notice both by feel of heft and impact pattern.

DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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Here is a random example on SW vs MOI from some MP60 with S300 i had dusting in a corner (measured without grips)

#3 iron 39.50 as D2 - MOI 2714
#9 iron 36.50 as D2 - MOI 2667

The difference is 47 grams cm/2
How tight a set should be matched vary from one club maker to another, but i use within plus minus 5 points as good enough, so if the #9 iron was "ideal", the #3 iron to the same player should have been minimum 2662 or maximum 2672, but its actually 2714 so they cant and will not be equal even if the SW scale say they are.

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So, in short, supossed I love my 6 iron @ D4 +0.25", a MOI matched iron+wedges for a 0.5" progressive length increments (0.25" for wedges):

4i D2.50 @ 38.75"
5i D3.25 @ 38.25"
6i D4.00 @ 37.75" <----base MOI
7i D4.75 @ 37.25"
8i D5.50 @ 36.75"
9i D6.25 @ 36.25"
P D6.62 @ 36.00"
W52 D7.00 @ 3.75"
W56 D7.37 @ 35.50"
W60 D7.75 @ 35.35"

should it look like that??

ZX5 9.5 Hrdzus RDX Blue 60 6.0

ZX5 13.5 Hrdzus Red 70 6.0
ZX5 18 VEntus Blue w/V 70 Stiff
ZX7 4-Pw Modus120S
ZipCore 52/56/60 Modus125S

Callaway Black Ops (E. Grillo)
 

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[quote name='tercoidegw' timestamp='1427204648' post='11204361']
So, in short, supossed I love my 6 iron @ D4 +0.25", a MOI matched iron+wedges for a 0.5" progressive length increments (0.25" for wedges):

4i D2.50 @ 38.75"
5i D3.25 @ 38.25"
6i D4.00 @ 37.75" <----base MOI
7i D4.75 @ 37.25"
8i D5.50 @ 36.75"
9i D6.25 @ 36.25"
P D6.62 @ 36.00"
W52 D7.00 @ 3.75"
W56 D7.37 @ 35.50"
W60 D7.75 @ 35.35"

should it look like that??
[/quote]

Yes, looks good, if your #6 as D4 is the one you try to duplicate to all the others

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So I'm new to the MOI matching but is there a formula to determine the progressive swing weighting giving the length of each club? Say if my 5i is D4 at 38.5" with 1/2" increments. Is there an ideal club to base off of?


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[quote name='drvrwdge' timestamp='1427209365' post='11204927']
So I'm new to the MOI matching but is there a formula to determine the progressive swing weighting giving the length of each club? Say if my 5i is D4 at 38.5" with 1/2" increments. Is there an ideal club to base off of?


Sent from my iPhone using GolfWRX Mobile
[/quote]

Please follow this link to a tread about MOI matching so we dont change the subject of this pinned topic for shafts.
You will find answer to all your questions there, and if not, feel free to post a question there

http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/1153353-moi-matching-calculating-moment-of-inertia/

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It happens that someone is working with older equipment like Though bore heads, but TT has taken down their old tip trim charts for them, so here they are for those who need them.
For reference i call the True Temper Tip trim instructions PRE 2009.

[attachment=2682819:True Temper Tip trim instruction PRE 2009.JPG]


On the same tip trim chart, suggested play lengths is.
[attachment=2682821:Pley length PRE 2009.JPG]

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Shaft WEIGHT is #2 after club length in importance, but there is hardly any debate on the subject, or how to find the right shaft weight or simulate another shaft weight. Thats why i expanded my DIY driver fitting with weight calk charts for all clubs except the putter. The shaft helps you to find net. cut weight of any shaft, and the net difference to any other shaft, no matter play length.
The charts also identify the shafts actual balance point who would be the place to add NET shaft weight difference if we want to "simulate" a higher shaft weight to find out how that shaft weight will work for you. The charts is in the bottom of this post, but there is a explanation on how to use them right in the post itself at the first chart added (drivers and woods)

[url="http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/909991-diy-driver-tune-up-diy-fitting/#entry7861381"]http://www.golfwrx.c...g/#entry7861381[/url]

As always feel free to ask for help or any other questions .

DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Question for Howard: I have X100's ss2x at 0.25" over in my irons. Obviously FCM is pretty close to an S400, but how similar are the two shafts? Obviously weight is different since the soft stepping lightened up my shafts. How different or similar will they play?

Titleist 913D3 9.5* Diamana D+ 72s
Titleist 906F4 13.5* Fuji Rombax 8Z08 X
Titleist 712 CB 4-9, MB PW KBS Tour (HS1X)
Titleist SM5 52-08 & 58-07 S400's
Yes! Victoria II

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Question for Howard: I have X100's ss2x at 0.25" over in my irons. Obviously FCM is pretty close to an S400, but how similar are the two shafts? Obviously weight is different since the soft stepping lightened up my shafts. How different or similar will they play?

Titleist 913D3 9.5* Diamana D+ 72s
Titleist 906F4 13.5* Fuji Rombax 8Z08 X
Titleist 712 CB 4-9, MB PW KBS Tour (HS1X)
Titleist SM5 52-08 & 58-07 S400's
Yes! Victoria II

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[quote name='jeffrey08250' timestamp='1429463722' post='11392145']
Question for Howard: I have X100's ss2x at 0.25" over in my irons. Obviously FCM is pretty close to an S400, but how similar are the two shafts? Obviously weight is different since the soft stepping lightened up my shafts. How different or similar will they play?
[/quote]

Haha, you ask the question who dont have an answer...it had to come up :-)

X100 SS2 has a tip section 1 inch shorter that S400 strait in, and a net shaft weight who is 5,5 grams lower as comparable weight to S400.

Depending on how YOU and YOUR swing respond to those differences, the access to the ball change according to that, and that might be quite a lot, or next to nothing, and shaft weight is the most important of the two.

If you play S300, and think of S400 VS X100 SS2, measure 18 3/16 down from the butt end of your #6 iron, and add 2.3 grams to simulate the weight of S400. If you improve, then S400 is the way to go, if its no good or feels to heavy, go X100 SS2

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[quote name='Howard Jones' timestamp='1429556612' post='11399473']
[quote name='jeffrey08250' timestamp='1429463722' post='11392145']
Question for Howard: I have X100's ss2x at 0.25" over in my irons. Obviously FCM is pretty close to an S400, but how similar are the two shafts? Obviously weight is different since the soft stepping lightened up my shafts. How different or similar will they play?
[/quote]

Haha, you ask the question who dont have an answer...it had to come up :-)

X100 SS2 has a tip section 1 inch shorter that S400 strait in, and a net shaft weight who is 5,5 grams lower as comparable weight to S400.

Depending on how YOU and YOUR swing respond to those differences, the access to the ball change according to that, and that might be quite a lot, or next to nothing, and shaft weight is the most important of the two.

If you play S300, and think of S400 VS X100 SS2, measure 18 3/16 down from the butt end of your #6 iron, and add 2.3 grams to simulate the weight of S400. If you improve, then S400 is the way to go, if its no good or feels to heavy, go X100 SS2
[/quote]

Thanks for the input as always, Howard!

Titleist 913D3 9.5* Diamana D+ 72s
Titleist 906F4 13.5* Fuji Rombax 8Z08 X
Titleist 712 CB 4-9, MB PW KBS Tour (HS1X)
Titleist SM5 52-08 & 58-07 S400's
Yes! Victoria II

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Lol Howard wish we had someone like you within even 200 miles of where I lived. It'd be awesome to get a true "real" fitting, on a real launch monitor and someone that knows and can explain and/or alter even the slightest details[quote name='jeffrey08250' timestamp='1429579240' post='11402961']
[quote name='Howard Jones' timestamp='1429556612' post='11399473']
[quote name='jeffrey08250' timestamp='1429463722' post='11392145']
Question for Howard: I have X100's ss2x at 0.25" over in my irons. Obviously FCM is pretty close to an S400, but how similar are the two shafts? Obviously weight is different since the soft stepping lightened up my shafts. How different or similar will they play?
[/quote]

Haha, you ask the question who dont have an answer...it had to come up :-)

X100 SS2 has a tip section 1 inch shorter that S400 strait in, and a net shaft weight who is 5,5 grams lower as comparable weight to S400.

Depending on how YOU and YOUR swing respond to those differences, the access to the ball change according to that, and that might be quite a lot, or next to nothing, and shaft weight is the most important of the two.

If you play S300, and think of S400 VS X100 SS2, measure 18 3/16 down from the butt end of your #6 iron, and add 2.3 grams to simulate the weight of S400. If you improve, then S400 is the way to go, if its no good or feels to heavy, go X100 SS2
[/quote]

Thanks for the input as always, Howard!
[/quote]

Lol Howard wish we had someone like you within even 200 miles of where I lived. It'd be awesome to get a true "real" fitting, on a real launch monitor and someone that knows and can explain and/or alter even the slightest details to compare and get optimal performance gain and consistency.

Thanks for answers and contribution to this thread and forum. I definitely enjoy reading your posts.

rymail00 2018 WITB [i][b] [url="http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/1605910-rymail00-2018-witb-pic-heavy/"]http://www.golfwrx.c...witb-pic-heavy/[/url][/b][/i]

[size=3]TM M1 430 8.5* Tour Issue w/ Tensei CK Pro White 70s (with high gloss SLDR finish from Continental Golf)
Titleist 917 F3 15* D+ 80s
Titleist 915H 21* D+ 90s
Titleist 915H 24* D+ 90s
Titleist AP2 718, 5-50* Steelfiber i95s
Scratch TD DW 54* 58* KBS HiRev
Odyssey Metal X Milled 330M (current gamer) [/size]
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[quote name='rymail00' timestamp='1429581269' post='11403275']
Lol Howard wish we had someone like you within even 200 miles of where I lived. It'd be awesome to get a true "real" fitting, on a real launch monitor and someone that knows and can explain and/or alter even the slightest details[quote name='jeffrey08250' timestamp='1429579240' post='11402961']
[quote name='Howard Jones' timestamp='1429556612' post='11399473']
[quote name='jeffrey08250' timestamp='1429463722' post='11392145']
Question for Howard: I have X100's ss2x at 0.25" over in my irons. Obviously FCM is pretty close to an S400, but how similar are the two shafts? Obviously weight is different since the soft stepping lightened up my shafts. How different or similar will they play?
[/quote]

Haha, you ask the question who dont have an answer...it had to come up :-)

X100 SS2 has a tip section 1 inch shorter that S400 strait in, and a net shaft weight who is 5,5 grams lower as comparable weight to S400.

Depending on how YOU and YOUR swing respond to those differences, the access to the ball change according to that, and that might be quite a lot, or next to nothing, and shaft weight is the most important of the two.

If you play S300, and think of S400 VS X100 SS2, measure 18 3/16 down from the butt end of your #6 iron, and add 2.3 grams to simulate the weight of S400. If you improve, then S400 is the way to go, if its no good or feels to heavy, go X100 SS2
[/quote]

Thanks for the input as always, Howard!
[/quote]

Lol Howard wish we had someone like you within even 200 miles of where I lived. It'd be awesome to get a true "real" fitting, on a real launch monitor and someone that knows and can explain and/or alter even the slightest details to compare and get optimal performance gain and consistency.

Thanks for answers and contribution to this thread and forum. I definitely enjoy reading your posts.
[/quote]

There must be several good Club makers around in your area, and i can see you are in Canada, and i find 1 Club maker in Montreal on Tom Wishons locator, but i dont know anything about that shop, but call them and ask about what they offer.
[url="http://wishongolf.com/find-a-clubfitter/"]http://wishongolf.co...d-a-clubfitter/[/url]

You could also try to contact one of this True Temper Performance Fitting Centers.
PFC is the elite network of True Temper Club makers, all authorized to sell and install True Temper Tour Issue products.
[attachment=2723305:PFC Canada.JPG]

DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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[quote name='Howard Jones' timestamp='1429688764' post='11413673']
[quote name='rymail00' timestamp='1429581269' post='11403275']
Lol Howard wish we had someone like you within even 200 miles of where I lived. It'd be awesome to get a true "real" fitting, on a real launch monitor and someone that knows and can explain and/or alter even the slightest details[quote name='jeffrey08250' timestamp='1429579240' post='11402961']
[quote name='Howard Jones' timestamp='1429556612' post='11399473']
[quote name='jeffrey08250' timestamp='1429463722' post='11392145']
Question for Howard: I have X100's ss2x at 0.25" over in my irons. Obviously FCM is pretty close to an S400, but how similar are the two shafts? Obviously weight is different since the soft stepping lightened up my shafts. How different or similar will they play?
[/quote]

Haha, you ask the question who dont have an answer...it had to come up :-)

X100 SS2 has a tip section 1 inch shorter that S400 strait in, and a net shaft weight who is 5,5 grams lower as comparable weight to S400.

Depending on how YOU and YOUR swing respond to those differences, the access to the ball change according to that, and that might be quite a lot, or next to nothing, and shaft weight is the most important of the two.

If you play S300, and think of S400 VS X100 SS2, measure 18 3/16 down from the butt end of your #6 iron, and add 2.3 grams to simulate the weight of S400. If you improve, then S400 is the way to go, if its no good or feels to heavy, go X100 SS2
[/quote]

Thanks for the input as always, Howard!
[/quote]

Lol Howard wish we had someone like you within even 200 miles of where I lived. It'd be awesome to get a true "real" fitting, on a real launch monitor and someone that knows and can explain and/or alter even the slightest details to compare and get optimal performance gain and consistency.

Thanks for answers and contribution to this thread and forum. I definitely enjoy reading your posts.
[/quote]

There must be several good Club makers around in your area, and i can see you are in Canada, and i find 1 Club maker in Montreal on Tom Wishons locator, but i dont know anything about that shop, but call them and ask about what they offer.
[url="http://wishongolf.com/find-a-clubfitter/"]http://wishongolf.co...d-a-clubfitter/[/url]

You could also try to contact one of this True Temper Performance Fitting Centers.
PFC is the elite network of True Temper Club makers, all authorized to sell and install True Temper Tour Issue products.
[attachment=2723305:PFC Canada.JPG]
[/quote]

Thanks for the post above!

Yeah the best we have is a mom and pops shop about an hour and 45 minutes away. The do have a very small and limited fitting carts for a couple major OEM's but only carry a couple driver shafts in the cart. They are the few shafts that are an option for no up charge. Also they don't have a LM or sim to see any actual numbers. It's all "how's that feel?" Type of fitting. You just basically go off flight of the ball.

Actually I live in way upstate Ny about 1:15 minutes from Montreal. But unfortunately I don't have an enhanced lisence or passport to get into Canda (I'm working to get one thought). I'm not quite sure they could help me get an iron shaft though. I've been playing the Adams A4 Tour irons for about 4 years, and actually bought two more sets of them thus winter as backup because it's become my favorite iron. So I'm not sure if they could really fit me into an "optimal" shaft for them since the head and shaft can't be switched out. But if you have any suggestion on how to go about it I'd really appreciate it.

I've been playin for about 25 years (33 now, started very young). My fittings have been all done by trial and error. Buy a driver, try and see if I like it, then try and find a shaft that gets me what I'm looking for trajectory and roll out wise. I can honestly say that I'm actually quite happy with all the new changes I've made over the winter. I found the A4 Tours to be be what I'm looking for visually, and play ability. I was playing PX Flighted 5.0's, but went to PX 5.5 to try and bring the flight down as well as strengthen the loft a touch to also help lower the flight some. The same as the driver as well. I found a head I like and shaft that gives me visually, through flight of what I'm after. Obviously being truely fitted with a LM and large number shafts fir my irons and driver heads would probably give me better numbers and dispersion. It's just finding a place to do it at that's stopping me from doing it.

Oh well. Hopefully some day I'll get that opportunity because I believe it would be a fun process, plus possibly help my game some.

rymail00 2018 WITB [i][b] [url="http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/1605910-rymail00-2018-witb-pic-heavy/"]http://www.golfwrx.c...witb-pic-heavy/[/url][/b][/i]

[size=3]TM M1 430 8.5* Tour Issue w/ Tensei CK Pro White 70s (with high gloss SLDR finish from Continental Golf)
Titleist 917 F3 15* D+ 80s
Titleist 915H 21* D+ 90s
Titleist 915H 24* D+ 90s
Titleist AP2 718, 5-50* Steelfiber i95s
Scratch TD DW 54* 58* KBS HiRev
Odyssey Metal X Milled 330M (current gamer) [/size]
[size=3]Ping Scottsdale TR B60[/size]
[size=3]TP Mills Heritage 349g [/size]
[size=3]Byron Morgan 006 355g [/size]
[size=3]Byron Morgan Makers Proof #4/5 solid copper [/size]
[size=3]C&L CL1 368g[/size]
Scotty Cameron Newport Studio Style

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  • 4 weeks later...

If X100's ss2x feel good (weight wise) but they're spinning too much, what is a shaft to consider? It may be odd, but I'm finding that X100's ss2x spin more than S300's straight in. I imagine this has to do with the fact that X100 has changed so much being soft stepped twice.

Titleist 913D3 9.5* Diamana D+ 72s
Titleist 906F4 13.5* Fuji Rombax 8Z08 X
Titleist 712 CB 4-9, MB PW KBS Tour (HS1X)
Titleist SM5 52-08 & 58-07 S400's
Yes! Victoria II

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  • 1 month later...

I created a topic for this but probably should have just posted the question here. Can someone please take a look at this question and help me out? Thanks!

I am planning on tipping my KK TiNi to put in a 10.5* SLDR Mini Driver, to play at 43 inches, maybe 43.5. It currently plays at 44 inches, maybe 44.5 in most TMAG drivers ( I will have to measure and double check.) It is the 60 gram model so it plays at 65 grams and has a 3 inch tip section. I will likely have to tip it .5 just to go into the mini, but does anyone know how much more would need to be tipped or can be tipped to get as close to X flex as possible? I have looked around this forum but haven't yet found a thread that can help me with this specific issue. Thanks guys! Appreciate any help.

TM M4 10.5 Mitsubishi Rayon Tensei White 70X
Callaway Rogue 4 wood Hzrdus Yellow 6.5
TM Stage 2 tour hybrid 22* Altus 85X
SLDR 5-PW C Taper 120s
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Howard, how much tipping a CTaper shaft to make it play like the next one; i.e. I broke my 5 iron shaft, so I want to tip my 4 iron shaft to make it play like the 5 iron shaft. My guess is 1/2" but...

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ZX5 18 VEntus Blue w/V 70 Stiff
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ZipCore 52/56/60 Modus125S

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