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Blade users thread (NO DEBATING CLUBHEADS! NO Buy Sell Trade!)


Bigmean

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> @Christen_The_Sloop said:

> > @revanant said:

> > Thanks for the advice on the BH Grinds, folks.

> >

> > In other news, buying old golf clubs is a slippery slope. I now have an MP-14 6 iron and Macgregor Miurfield 20th Anniversary 6 iron on the way. I’m looking forward to testing those. :)

>

> It's a nightly struggle. Luckily for my marriage I have curbed by habit. I bit my lip on a pristine set of Maruman Conductor 400Cs the other night, for example. One thing I have noticed with old sets is it's a crapshoot for shafts. You might get some that should fit, but then they'll be too short or long. I've had pretty decent luck with finding sets in nice condition, being that I live in Japan. People go f'ing all out on their sticks and then a lot never see a blade of grass before getting tucked away.

>

> This Tourstage TW01 52 I just picked up has me stoked - I won an auction for it with S200 TT, but it arrived with NS950S. I was going to change it for an s400 TT I have lying around anyway, but at the range with it, I can't frigging miss. I hit ten balls and ten balls fall dead pin high 100 yards away. I am still thinking of switching out the shaft, but I am really lazy and half interested in seeing if it will perform on the course. I really love the head shape and the sole grind on it and it has no offset. The stamping tells me it has some decent lineage too.

>

> Looking hard at a set of Cleveland wedges and a new driver and fairway too. Hit the Ping LST 410 with The Tensei CK S and it went pretty well. Lower than the Bridgestone I have now. And, of course, waiting to see what the MP20 will be like. This train is full choo choo and I don't even know if I'll play before October... The bag is gonna be tight though.

 

Honestly, I picked up the MP-14 so that I would have a frame of reference to compare the MP-20 to. I figure between my MP-4s and Mp-14s, I should have most of the Mizuno DNA covered. : ) Now, I just need to move out of an apartment and learn to reshaft my own irons, and I can be a true WRXer (and possibly single again).

 

If the MP-20 is close to my MP-4s, I'm going to use it as a platform to try out different shafts and consider a reshaft.

 

My MP-4s are a little bit higher launching than the Apex MBs that I flipped, and go toe-to-toe against a spare set of 716 CBs that have Aerotech Steelfiber i95 shafts. To a degree, I think I'm shaft insensitive, though I do reliably find that the KBS Tour 90 in stiff gives me more spin and higher flight.

 

The only iron that made me reconsider my current ball flight is my Hogan Redlines, where I can get very high ball flight and spin. For instance, >7k spin in 7 iron, 22 degrees of launch, and same carry as my MP-4s despite a 4 degree loft difference (36 vs. 32).

 

I hope the MP-20s can help me figure things out. If I can get my Redline ballflight and numbers with the MP-20, then I'll consider reshafting my MP-4s into that setup. I think the Apex 4 is effectively a Dynalite S300, so I could look into shafts that resemble that profile. The alternative is that the Hogan Redline heads have a really low CG and are a good fit for my swing, or benefit from their square grooves, such that it's not the shaft.

 

The BH Grinds should help as well--I'll generally be playing them without practice, and have to hope that the Redlines I keep in my apartment are close enough that my practice with them translates.

 

Overall, I think if I can get higher flight, it would be a good thing? A little bit more stopping power on the green, etc.

 

But I'm a bit afraid of what will happen when hitting into wind--my default shot shape now is about medium, and tends to have an apex of 60 ft - 70 ft. with a few hundred RPM less than the iron number for backspin. With that, I'll still lose a club or two to a windy day. But I plan to test that theory soon by taking my Redlines into playing conditions soon.

 

As always, comments and perspectives welcome. : )

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> @ptatti27 said:

> I bought a used MP-32 5 iron for $15 on a whim from goodwill. I have a friend that plays Hogans and I wanted to see what a blade felt like. I used it a few times over the last week and it definitely feels great. I only started playing this summer but didn't find it that difficult to hit. My normal irons are Speedblades which are nice but they don't seem much more helpful if I hit it thin or fat which is what I struggle with.

>

> Not really much point to this but just wanted to say even as a beginner blades can feel great and to not be intimidated.

 

This is how it starts. You grab an old blade for range practice, start to get comfortable with it, fall in love with the look and the feel, and then spend $60 on a set of classic blades to mess around with on the course.

 

Fast-forward a few months, and you're tripping over vintage sets of blades you've picked up for a song, and wondering why folks spend $1200+ on new clubs.

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> @revanant said:

> > @Christen_The_Sloop said:

> > > @revanant said:

> > > Thanks for the advice on the BH Grinds, folks.

> > >

> > > In other news, buying old golf clubs is a slippery slope. I now have an MP-14 6 iron and Macgregor Miurfield 20th Anniversary 6 iron on the way. I’m looking forward to testing those. :)

> >

> > It's a nightly struggle. Luckily for my marriage I have curbed by habit. I bit my lip on a pristine set of Maruman Conductor 400Cs the other night, for example. One thing I have noticed with old sets is it's a crapshoot for shafts. You might get some that should fit, but then they'll be too short or long. I've had pretty decent luck with finding sets in nice condition, being that I live in Japan. People go f'ing all out on their sticks and then a lot never see a blade of grass before getting tucked away.

> >

> > This Tourstage TW01 52 I just picked up has me stoked - I won an auction for it with S200 TT, but it arrived with NS950S. I was going to change it for an s400 TT I have lying around anyway, but at the range with it, I can't frigging miss. I hit ten balls and ten balls fall dead pin high 100 yards away. I am still thinking of switching out the shaft, but I am really lazy and half interested in seeing if it will perform on the course. I really love the head shape and the sole grind on it and it has no offset. The stamping tells me it has some decent lineage too.

> >

> > Looking hard at a set of Cleveland wedges and a new driver and fairway too. Hit the Ping LST 410 with The Tensei CK S and it went pretty well. Lower than the Bridgestone I have now. And, of course, waiting to see what the MP20 will be like. This train is full choo choo and I don't even know if I'll play before October... The bag is gonna be tight though.

>

> Honestly, I picked up the MP-14 so that I would have a frame of reference to compare the MP-20 to. I figure between my MP-4s and Mp-14s, I should have most of the Mizuno DNA covered. : ) Now, I just need to move out of an apartment and learn to reshaft my own irons, and I can be a true WRXer (and possibly single again).

>

> If the MP-20 is close to my MP-4s, I'm going to use it as a platform to try out different shafts and consider a reshaft.

>

> My MP-4s are a little bit higher launching than the Apex MBs that I flipped, and go toe-to-toe against a spare set of 716 CBs that have Aerotech Steelfiber i95 shafts. To a degree, I think I'm shaft insensitive, though I do reliably find that the KBS Tour 90 in stiff gives me more spin and higher flight.

>

> The only iron that made me reconsider my current ball flight is my Hogan Redlines, where I can get very high ball flight and spin. For instance, >7k spin in 7 iron, 22 degrees of launch, and same carry as my MP-4s despite a 4 degree loft difference (36 vs. 32).

>

> I hope the MP-20s can help me figure things out. If I can get my Redline ballflight and numbers with the MP-20, then I'll consider reshafting my MP-4s into that setup. I think the Apex 4 is effectively a Dynalite S300, so I could look into shafts that resemble that profile. The alternative is that the Hogan Redline heads have a really low CG and are a good fit for my swing, or benefit from their square grooves, such that it's not the shaft.

>

> The BH Grinds should help as well--I'll generally be playing them without practice, and have to hope that the Redlines I keep in my apartment are close enough that my practice with them translates.

>

> Overall, I think if I can get higher flight, it would be a good thing? A little bit more stopping power on the green, etc.

>

> But I'm a bit afraid of what will happen when hitting into wind--my default shot shape now is about medium, and tends to have an apex of 60 ft - 70 ft. with a few hundred RPM less than the iron number for backspin. With that, I'll still lose a club or two to a windy day. But I plan to test that theory soon by taking my Redlines into playing conditions soon.

>

> As always, comments and perspectives welcome. : )

 

I put a set of Hogan Apex 4 shafts in my Macgregor CB92/VIP combo set and they are incredible. Like you said, high ball flight which is due to the active tip section of the Apex 4, but even though they fly high they are very long too. I’m super happy with the performance of the Apex shafts in my Mac’s. I’ve heard as well that the Apex shafts are the same as the Dynalites so they shouldn’t be to hard or expensive to source.

 

You could always snag a set of Apex shafts off eBay and put them in the Mizuno’s once you are set up to do your own shaft swaps.

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> @Nard_S said:

> > @NRJyzr said:

> >

> > The Precision shaft has a softer tip than that of Dynamic Gold. I've wondered if perhaps that softer tip is closing the club a bit more than I see with DG, giving me that left miss I've mentioned. I saw this with my Rifle shafted Golden Rams, as well, the last time I took them on course.

> >

> > It could also have been me hitting at the ball a bit more yesterday, something I was also doing with driver. Obviously more testing is needed. LOL

> >

> > The other goofy theory has to do with the shorter blade length of the TW282. I'd been playing FX Nickels, which are a larger blade head. Wondering if the shorter TW282 blade length has me closing the club in the swing a little quicker than the Nickels?

> >

>

> >

> I think you have it nailed. a slight adjustment might be in order, the trick is what type and to what degree.

 

If it was my swing, I'd be more tempted to blame too soft a shaft than blade length if I was missing left. When I moved to the VR Pros after the OGs the biggest adjustment I had to make was to quieten my right hand as I was having a couple of issues keeping the face square through impact with the longer blade.

 

It's also my key tell for if a shaft is too soft - everything goes high and left. At least with my S400s everything goes high, but there's the odd miss right mixed in there too lol.

The Dee Three - Titleist TS4 9.5 deg, EvenFlow White 6.5 65g, A1 Setting

Henrik - Titleist 917 F3 15 deg, Rogue Max 75x, B2 Setting

The Walking Stick - Titleist 818 H2 19 deg, Rogue Max 85x, B2 Setting

The Interloper - TaylorMade P770 3 iron, S400 Tour Issue, +0.5inch +1 deg loft

The Blades - Nike VR Pro 4 - AW, S400 Tour Issue, +0.5 inch

The Sand Iron - TaylorMade MG2 TW-12 Grind, 56 degree, S400 Tour Issue

The Flopper - TaylorMade MG2 TW-11 Grind, 60 Degree, S400 Tour Issue

The Putter - Nike Method 003 from The Oven

 

"Golf is only called golf as all the other four letter words have been taken"     - Leslie Nielsen

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> @revanant said:

> > @Christen_The_Sloop said:

> > > @revanant said:

> > > Thanks for the advice on the BH Grinds, folks.

> > >

> > > In other news, buying old golf clubs is a slippery slope. I now have an MP-14 6 iron and Macgregor Miurfield 20th Anniversary 6 iron on the way. I’m looking forward to testing those. :)

> >

> > It's a nightly struggle. Luckily for my marriage I have curbed by habit. I bit my lip on a pristine set of Maruman Conductor 400Cs the other night, for example. One thing I have noticed with old sets is it's a crapshoot for shafts. You might get some that should fit, but then they'll be too short or long. I've had pretty decent luck with finding sets in nice condition, being that I live in Japan. People go f'ing all out on their sticks and then a lot never see a blade of grass before getting tucked away.

> >

> > This Tourstage TW01 52 I just picked up has me stoked - I won an auction for it with S200 TT, but it arrived with NS950S. I was going to change it for an s400 TT I have lying around anyway, but at the range with it, I can't frigging miss. I hit ten balls and ten balls fall dead pin high 100 yards away. I am still thinking of switching out the shaft, but I am really lazy and half interested in seeing if it will perform on the course. I really love the head shape and the sole grind on it and it has no offset. The stamping tells me it has some decent lineage too.

> >

> > Looking hard at a set of Cleveland wedges and a new driver and fairway too. Hit the Ping LST 410 with The Tensei CK S and it went pretty well. Lower than the Bridgestone I have now. And, of course, waiting to see what the MP20 will be like. This train is full choo choo and I don't even know if I'll play before October... The bag is gonna be tight though.

>

> Honestly, I picked up the MP-14 so that I would have a frame of reference to compare the MP-20 to. I figure between my MP-4s and Mp-14s, I should have most of the Mizuno DNA covered. : ) Now, I just need to move out of an apartment and learn to reshaft my own irons, and I can be a true WRXer (and possibly single again).

>

> If the MP-20 is close to my MP-4s, I'm going to use it as a platform to try out different shafts and consider a reshaft.

>

> My MP-4s are a little bit higher launching than the Apex MBs that I flipped, and go toe-to-toe against a spare set of 716 CBs that have Aerotech Steelfiber i95 shafts. To a degree, I think I'm shaft insensitive, though I do reliably find that the KBS Tour 90 in stiff gives me more spin and higher flight.

>

> The only iron that made me reconsider my current ball flight is my Hogan Redlines, where I can get very high ball flight and spin. For instance, >7k spin in 7 iron, 22 degrees of launch, and same carry as my MP-4s despite a 4 degree loft difference (36 vs. 32).

>

> I hope the MP-20s can help me figure things out. If I can get my Redline ballflight and numbers with the MP-20, then I'll consider reshafting my MP-4s into that setup. I think the Apex 4 is effectively a Dynalite S300, so I could look into shafts that resemble that profile. The alternative is that the Hogan Redline heads have a really low CG and are a good fit for my swing, or benefit from their square grooves, such that it's not the shaft.

>

> The BH Grinds should help as well--I'll generally be playing them without practice, and have to hope that the Redlines I keep in my apartment are close enough that my practice with them translates.

>

> Overall, I think if I can get higher flight, it would be a good thing? A little bit more stopping power on the green, etc.

>

> But I'm a bit afraid of what will happen when hitting into wind--my default shot shape now is about medium, and tends to have an apex of 60 ft - 70 ft. with a few hundred RPM less than the iron number for backspin. With that, I'll still lose a club or two to a windy day. But I plan to test that theory soon by taking my Redlines into playing conditions soon.

>

> As always, comments and perspectives welcome. : )

 

You said that your scores are improving - are you into the 90s yet? I love experimenting as well, but the downside I see is that with a 20+ handicap your swing isn't repeatable. There is bound to be reasonable levels of inconsistency in there. Playing multiple sets can make it more difficult to work on improving the swing.

 

One could say I have the same issue - I'm picking up my new set of irons today and this is coming off of a week that was my first time shooting 5 consecutive scores in the 70s. I think my iBlades are working well for me but there is always room for improvement, right? haha.

 

Now to your point regarding ball flight - it is ALWAYS better to start with a high peak height/high spin baseline and flight your ball from there. Knocking a shot down is much easier than have to "work" to get the ball in the air. You don't need to worry about wind, add some club and swing easy. I play in wind a lot and the key is not swinging hard. When it's windy I always beat my playing partner because the more wind he has in his face the harder he tries to hit his shots. That never goes well. Learning to knock your shots down is a great skill to have. Start with wedges and move to your irons.

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> @balls_deep said:

> > @revanant said:

> > > @Christen_The_Sloop said:

> > > > @revanant said:

> > > > Thanks for the advice on the BH Grinds, folks.

> > > >

> > > > In other news, buying old golf clubs is a slippery slope. I now have an MP-14 6 iron and Macgregor Miurfield 20th Anniversary 6 iron on the way. I’m looking forward to testing those. :)

> > >

> > > It's a nightly struggle. Luckily for my marriage I have curbed by habit. I bit my lip on a pristine set of Maruman Conductor 400Cs the other night, for example. One thing I have noticed with old sets is it's a crapshoot for shafts. You might get some that should fit, but then they'll be too short or long. I've had pretty decent luck with finding sets in nice condition, being that I live in Japan. People go f'ing all out on their sticks and then a lot never see a blade of grass before getting tucked away.

> > >

> > > This Tourstage TW01 52 I just picked up has me stoked - I won an auction for it with S200 TT, but it arrived with NS950S. I was going to change it for an s400 TT I have lying around anyway, but at the range with it, I can't frigging miss. I hit ten balls and ten balls fall dead pin high 100 yards away. I am still thinking of switching out the shaft, but I am really lazy and half interested in seeing if it will perform on the course. I really love the head shape and the sole grind on it and it has no offset. The stamping tells me it has some decent lineage too.

> > >

> > > Looking hard at a set of Cleveland wedges and a new driver and fairway too. Hit the Ping LST 410 with The Tensei CK S and it went pretty well. Lower than the Bridgestone I have now. And, of course, waiting to see what the MP20 will be like. This train is full choo choo and I don't even know if I'll play before October... The bag is gonna be tight though.

> >

> > Honestly, I picked up the MP-14 so that I would have a frame of reference to compare the MP-20 to. I figure between my MP-4s and Mp-14s, I should have most of the Mizuno DNA covered. : ) Now, I just need to move out of an apartment and learn to reshaft my own irons, and I can be a true WRXer (and possibly single again).

> >

> > If the MP-20 is close to my MP-4s, I'm going to use it as a platform to try out different shafts and consider a reshaft.

> >

> > My MP-4s are a little bit higher launching than the Apex MBs that I flipped, and go toe-to-toe against a spare set of 716 CBs that have Aerotech Steelfiber i95 shafts. To a degree, I think I'm shaft insensitive, though I do reliably find that the KBS Tour 90 in stiff gives me more spin and higher flight.

> >

> > The only iron that made me reconsider my current ball flight is my Hogan Redlines, where I can get very high ball flight and spin. For instance, >7k spin in 7 iron, 22 degrees of launch, and same carry as my MP-4s despite a 4 degree loft difference (36 vs. 32).

> >

> > I hope the MP-20s can help me figure things out. If I can get my Redline ballflight and numbers with the MP-20, then I'll consider reshafting my MP-4s into that setup. I think the Apex 4 is effectively a Dynalite S300, so I could look into shafts that resemble that profile. The alternative is that the Hogan Redline heads have a really low CG and are a good fit for my swing, or benefit from their square grooves, such that it's not the shaft.

> >

> > The BH Grinds should help as well--I'll generally be playing them without practice, and have to hope that the Redlines I keep in my apartment are close enough that my practice with them translates.

> >

> > Overall, I think if I can get higher flight, it would be a good thing? A little bit more stopping power on the green, etc.

> >

> > But I'm a bit afraid of what will happen when hitting into wind--my default shot shape now is about medium, and tends to have an apex of 60 ft - 70 ft. with a few hundred RPM less than the iron number for backspin. With that, I'll still lose a club or two to a windy day. But I plan to test that theory soon by taking my Redlines into playing conditions soon.

> >

> > As always, comments and perspectives welcome. : )

>

> You said that your scores are improving - are you into the 90s yet? I love experimenting as well, but the downside I see is that with a 20+ handicap your swing isn't repeatable. There is bound to be reasonable levels of inconsistency in there. Playing multiple sets can make it more difficult to work on improving the swing.

>

> One could say I have the same issue - I'm picking up my new set of irons today and this is coming off of a week that was my first time shooting 5 consecutive scores in the 70s. I think my iBlades are working well for me but there is always room for improvement, right? haha.

>

> Now to your point regarding ball flight - it is ALWAYS better to start with a high peak height/high spin baseline and flight your ball from there. Knocking a shot down is much easier than have to "work" to get the ball in the air. You don't need to worry about wind, add some club and swing easy. I play in wind a lot and the key is not swinging hard. When it's windy I always beat my playing partner because the more wind he has in his face the harder he tries to hit his shots. That never goes well. Learning to knock your shots down is a great skill to have. Start with wedges and move to your irons.

 

Yep, I'm officially in the 90's. Shot 96 on a full 18 on my last round, and I've shot a number of 46s on 9 holes. : D

 

One of those 46s could easily have been 44. I was on the last hole and wasn't careful with my putting from 8 feet--added two unnecessary strokes. So sadly, it was a 46 that should have been better.

 

Long story short, I've only been playing my MP-4s and my scores have been dropping.

 

On ball flight, one reason I've been hesitant to make changes to my MP-4 shafts is that I find I get higher flight in the real world. An 80% swing with good contact flies well, and I'm starting to suspect that I get a little bit more spin off of turf.

 

That being said, the Redlines definitely want to spin and fly high, so I appreciate your point about manipulating ball flight and rolling with more club. I do find a little bit of forward shaft lean works well for getting a ball down a bit, so while it might hurt my consistency, I think I'll take the Redlines for a spin on my next round and see what happens.

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> @bodhi555 said:

> > @Nard_S said:

> > > @NRJyzr said:

> > >

> > > The Precision shaft has a softer tip than that of Dynamic Gold. I've wondered if perhaps that softer tip is closing the club a bit more than I see with DG, giving me that left miss I've mentioned. I saw this with my Rifle shafted Golden Rams, as well, the last time I took them on course.

> > >

> > > It could also have been me hitting at the ball a bit more yesterday, something I was also doing with driver. Obviously more testing is needed. LOL

> > >

> > > The other goofy theory has to do with the shorter blade length of the TW282. I'd been playing FX Nickels, which are a larger blade head. Wondering if the shorter TW282 blade length has me closing the club in the swing a little quicker than the Nickels?

> > >

> >

> > >

> > I think you have it nailed. a slight adjustment might be in order, the trick is what type and to what degree.

>

> If it was my swing, I'd be more tempted to blame too soft a shaft than blade length if I was missing left. When I moved to the VR Pros after the OGs the biggest adjustment I had to make was to quieten my right hand as I was having a couple of issues keeping the face square through impact with the longer blade.

>

> It's also my key tell for if a shaft is too soft - everything goes high and left. At least with my S400s everything goes high, but there's the odd miss right mixed in there too lol.

 

Don't disagree. But there's several ways to address it if you like things except for the leftish miss. I used to have a hard time with SL 300's for same reasons but even with S400's I'm working to neutralize hands and stay with fade bias except when I desire a draw. So now I can go fade all day with SL's and am not so hostage to one shaft or setup.

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> @deejaid said:

> > @Bubbtubbs said:

> > Scored an entire set of 98 Apex blades for $80 CAD, including new grips! Looks like they've never even been hit.

> >

> > pzn92pi1ougx.jpg

> > 9yvao06fxmaw.jpg

> > ed7nmrbcv0lw.jpg

> > Just the 3I, but the whole set looks just like this, even the pitching wedge.

>

> Sweet pickup for only $80, but those are 1994 channelbacks.

Thanks for providing that information. A google image search was all I had to go on and it was obviously wrong.

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> @Bubbtubbs said:

> > @deejaid said:

> > > @Bubbtubbs said:

> > > Scored an entire set of 98 Apex blades for $80 CAD, including new grips! Looks like they've never even been hit.

> > >

> > > pzn92pi1ougx.jpg

> > > 9yvao06fxmaw.jpg

> > > ed7nmrbcv0lw.jpg

> > > Just the 3I, but the whole set looks just like this, even the pitching wedge.

> >

> > Sweet pickup for only $80, but those are 1994 channelbacks.

> Thanks for providing that information. A google image search was all I had to go on and it was obviously wrong.

 

Sure thing. From what I’ve read, Mr. Hogan wasn’t too pleased with their design as he thought they looked too different from the blades that the Ben Hogan Co. had been making all the previous years. Justin Leonard used a set to win the 1997 Open Championship. After his win they released 272 commemorative sets of channelbacks, his winning score. Maybe that was in 1998, hence google calling them 1998’s?

 

Anyway, awesome find for that price. I’ve yet to own a set but they are ones I’ve always wanted.

 

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1egzsod9nv1k.jpeg

 

I took my new (to me) 2003 Apex out to the course for a trial 9. Second hole, 172 yards, 6-iron to 3 feet. 9th hole same distance, another 6 iron flushed to 15 feet. Haven’t had such a good iron day in a long time, and really happy with these. Very hittable, I can’t decide if I prefer these or my ‘99’s.

 

oigvhp1uxh64.jpeg

 

 

P.s. @Bubbtubbs I love those ‘94’s

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> @revanant said:

> Nice find! Let us know how they feel! :)

Had the 7i and 3i out at the range this morning. Beautiful feeling clubs! I was especially impressed with the butterknife - a nice, rising, power fade flight on it out to about 220ish (no monitor), which is exactly what I want out of it into greens. The 7i was a high draw out to 170ish.

 

These are probably going in the bag, groove rules be damned.

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"These are probably going in the bag, groove rules be damned."

 

I don't believe all clubs from before the rule violate the rule. I would be surprised if they were to fail.

Anyone know for sure?

G430 MAX 10K 9° w/ventus velocore red 5s

G430 MAX threewood ping chrome tour2 65 S
Taylor Made SIM MAX2 5wood w/ventus velocore blue 7

Adams 23º 9031 proto w' diamana ahina 82
Eye2   3-SW

Oddessy Rossie nsl og slant neck.  

 

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> @2Down said:

> "These are probably going in the bag, groove rules be damned."

>

> I don't believe all clubs from before the rule violate the rule. I would be surprised if they were to fail.

> Anyone know for sure?

 

I recall there being some significant time for old groove to be ok except for the very top tier USGA and pro tournaments

 

Titlest Tsi2, 10*, GD ADDI 5
Titleist TSi2 16.5 GD ADDI 5

Callaway X-hot pro 3, 4 h
TM P790 5-W, DG 105 R
Vokey SM7 48, 52, 56
Cameron Futura 5W


 
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> @2Down said:

> "These are probably going in the bag, groove rules be damned."

>

> I don't believe all clubs from before the rule violate the rule. I would be surprised if they were to fail.

> Anyone know for sure?

 

It’s actually quite unclear. A good deal of clubs from before the rule are fine by the rule. Hogan Apex 2003? Tested and approved. Apex 1999? Tested and approved (although called 1998 for club database purposes). Apex 1994? Not tested, status unknown. (And the same for all other models of Apex, ’72, ’78, ’88, ’92...) Unknown. Mizuno, I believe, claims they have only ever used conforming grooves in their irons.

 

A club makes it’s way into the database when someone submits it for testing. The USGA/R&A say quite clearly that the database is not the endall beall of a club’s conformity. It is helpful, but not like the ball or driver lists. The catch is that they will only test it (or said so) if you were playing in competition, so no one sends in a Hogan Vector Lite just for kicks.

 

I think what the ruling bodies missed is that we, the general golfing public, enjoy playing whatever clubs we happen to have, and enjoy the thought that we play the same rules as the pros (more or less). So even though we are not bound to the groove rule, we still want to be bound to it... for the same reason I play OB as S&D... because the rules say so.

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Shot 84 w/ 9 pars. 1st full walk & carry round of the year, I'm feeling my 50 something so yeah, like the 9 pars more so. But big moral for me was played 1st 9 w/ big 4 ball that I don't normally play. It was fine but till I put my normal big 4 in play, did not make putts of grandeur. So that nonsense comes to an end. Balls.....have your balls.....play better golf.

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I'm low double digit but play cg1 tours (granted they are combo, but mb from 6 down).

One thing I am certain of in blades is that when my game is really on (not often) nothing compares to blades for consistency of strike/flight, feel, accuracy/dispersion, and distance control.

I have mine in R300, and I have no forgiveness issues whatsoever. I sometimes think the reputation of lack of forgiveness is because blades usually come in stiff or X stiff, which is too much for the majority of ams to handle. Imho if those same guys put those shafts in their SGI irons they would find them equally unforgiving.

For me it's blades all the way, I just couldn't feel comfortable with anything else.

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> @playa said:

>I sometimes think the reputation of lack of forgiveness is because blades usually come in stiff or X stiff, which is too much for >the majority of ams to handle. Imho if those same guys put those shafts in their SGI irons they would find them equally >unforgiving.

 

How many wrong things do you want pointed out in just this small amount?

 

 

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> @Nard_S said:

> Shot 84 w/ 9 pars. 1st full walk & carry round of the year, I'm feeling my 50 something so yeah, like the 9 pars more so. But big moral for me was played 1st 9 w/ big 4 ball that I don't normally play. It was fine but till I put my normal big 4 in play, did not make putts of grandeur. So that nonsense comes to an end. Balls.....have your balls.....play better golf.

 

I have been walking and carrying a lot this summer. Mainly so I can brag to my wife about what a stud I am. Before I take Aleve and crash dead at sundown.

 

 

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> @playa said:

> I'm low double digit but play cg1 tours (granted they are combo, but mb from 6 down).

> One thing I am certain of in blades is that when my game is really on (not often) nothing compares to blades for consistency of strike/flight, feel, accuracy/dispersion, and distance control.

> I have mine in R300, and I have no forgiveness issues whatsoever. I sometimes think the reputation of lack of forgiveness is because blades usually come in stiff or X stiff, which is too much for the majority of ams to handle. Imho if those same guys put those shafts in their SGI irons they would find them equally unforgiving.

> For me it's blades all the way, I just couldn't feel comfortable with anything else.

 

CG1 black pearl (I am not sure of the difference between CG1 and CG1 Tour) I remember back in the day as really hard to hit. Small and thin throughout the set. My swing was a lot different back then, but regardless no walk in the park. But yes, it's proven to not be much less forgiving than GI sets. Irons aren't really more or less workable. That's a spin axis thing. And off center hits are only slightly better on perimeter weighted clubs. Main difference is GI clubs do go further, and some people need that.

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> @Bubbtubbs said:

>

>

> Interesting video, though it's probably been linked here before.

 

No offense, but not really the thread for that "versus discussion"

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uvlyionitof3.jpg

yldt7wb83taz.jpg

Went and played a round and didn’t have a 4 iron so I threw an old Spauldings match play 3 iron in and man was it runs next to the ball but I got the chance on a par 5 from 235 yards out to use it and hit the nicest most pure shot I’ve ever hit and stuck it to 10 feet with what seemed to be no roll out and made the eagle putt in order to win the hole and go down in the match 4-1 ended up coming back and winning with 3 more birdies and a par on the last

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> @NRJyzr said:

> > @Bubbtubbs said:

> >

> >

> > Interesting video, though it's probably been linked here before.

>

> No offense, but not really the thread for that "versus discussion"

 

I should have provided some context. The previous poster had mentioned giving up forgiveness/ distance and that video shows there's really not a significant difference between the two.

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> @wmblake2000 said:

> > @Nard_S said:

> > Shot 84 w/ 9 pars. 1st full walk & carry round of the year, I'm feeling my 50 something so yeah, like the 9 pars more so. But big moral for me was played 1st 9 w/ big 4 ball that I don't normally play. It was fine but till I put my normal big 4 in play, did not make putts of grandeur. So that nonsense comes to an end. Balls.....have your balls.....play better golf.

>

> I have been walking and carrying a lot this summer. Mainly so I can brag to my wife about what a stud I am. Before I take Aleve and crash dead at sundown.

>

>

 

The very last thing my wife rates stud factory is when a golf club in my hand that's for sure, lol. Have to offset implicit boy factor by knocking down honey do list.

I'm always weary of the first walk, no matter how "in shape" I feel. It was 85*, drank a half gallon on 1st nine, probably should of consumed another quart on back. Got stupid on last 3 holes, gave up 5 strokes there alone. Felt great just to get out, going again Saturday,

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> @Nard_S said:

> > @wmblake2000 said:

> > > @Nard_S said:

> > > Shot 84 w/ 9 pars. 1st full walk & carry round of the year, I'm feeling my 50 something so yeah, like the 9 pars more so. But big moral for me was played 1st 9 w/ big 4 ball that I don't normally play. It was fine but till I put my normal big 4 in play, did not make putts of grandeur. So that nonsense comes to an end. Balls.....have your balls.....play better golf.

> >

> > I have been walking and carrying a lot this summer. Mainly so I can brag to my wife about what a stud I am. Before I take Aleve and crash dead at sundown.

> >

> >

>

> The very last thing my wife rates stud factory is when a golf club in my hand that's for sure, lol. Have to offset implicit boy factor by knocking down honey do list.

> I'm always weary of the first walk, no matter how "in shape" I feel. It was 85*, drank a half gallon on 1st nine, probably should of consumed another quart on back. Got stupid on last 3 holes, gave up 5 strokes there alone. Felt great just to get out, going again Saturday,

 

The stay hydrated rule is real. I can cramp up a lot if I don’t drink enough and get electrolytes/ bananas in me. Which means planning. Which I forget to do. But I love carrying - maybe because I always carried as a boy.

 

I am also playing really well. 76 last time out works for me. See if I can repeat it...although I am trying now to reshape arm/shoulder path which will throw things off for a while. But every time I *finally* get a key fundamental in better shape I see jump in distance and GIR.

 

 

Titlest Tsi2, 10*, GD ADDI 5
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