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Is graphite effectively as consistent as steel?


Solidstrike

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Isn’t graphite more prone to twisting than steel?

 

Not in a way that will have any effect on the ball flight. Only really impacts the feel of the shaft at impact for most and the feedback you get concerning off center hits.

 

Good to know, I always thought graphite had a higher dispersion rate based on more twisting of the head at impact. Thanks :)

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I would guess that the true root cause of most dispersion issues had to do with not paying attention to shaft weight and trying a graphite shaft that was just too light for the individual. And while I can't say for sure but there may have been some torque issues for some of the early generation iron shafts and faster swing speed players - but that's like more than 20-25 years ago and things have changed a lot since then.

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Is there a graphite iron shaft out there in the 95-100gm range that doesn’t cost $ 45-50 per ? Thanks.

 

Not as easy to find since they are older - but you can still find some Aldila VS Proto 100's or NV 105's around. Also can occasionally find some UST Rv2 95's.

 

Another option would be to wait and see what Robin Arthur has coming. Before his problems AXE (Arthur Extreme Engineering) used to have one that was bit more reasonably priced.

 

http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/1664850-axe-shafts/#entry17751298

 

Shirtdaddy still has 90-100g proto, rip, and nv iron shafts for ~$25/each.

 

I just picked up a rip phenom nl wood shaft for $54.

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Isn’t graphite more prone to twisting than steel?

 

Not in a way that will have any effect on the ball flight. Only really impacts the feel of the shaft at impact for most and the feedback you get concerning off center hits.

 

Good to know, I always thought graphite had a higher dispersion rate based on more twisting of the head at impact. Thanks :)

 

The ball is long gone off the face by then. It's the profile and weight issues, as Stu was explaining.

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Nike VR Pro Combo 3-PW XP115
Nike VR 54/58/62 XP115
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Shirtdaddy still has 90-100g proto, rip, and nv iron shafts for ~$25/each.

 

I've bought from him before. Some of them are even down to $22 - except of course for the one I need which is still at $36 (+ $7 shipping).

 

Unfortunately only seems to be listing some individual shafts, I haven't seen him list a set for a while now.

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I would guess that the true root cause of most dispersion issues had to do with not paying attention to shaft weight and trying a graphite shaft that was just too light for the individual. And while I can't say for sure but there may have been some torque issues for some of the early generation iron shafts and faster swing speed players - but that's like more than 20-25 years ago and things have changed a lot since then.

 

Stuart - how are you liking your steelfibers?

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I would guess that the true root cause of most dispersion issues had to do with not paying attention to shaft weight and trying a graphite shaft that was just too light for the individual. And while I can't say for sure but there may have been some torque issues for some of the early generation iron shafts and faster swing speed players - but that's like more than 20-25 years ago and things have changed a lot since then.

 

Stuart - how are you liking your steelfibers?

 

Only have the 7 iron built and tested. Turned out a little softer than I expected. Not loose by any means and don't think it's having any negative impact on the results so I want to spend a little more time with it to decide if I want to hard step or not (and just haven't had a lot of free time to do that yet).

 

How are they working for you?

 

For everyone else reading, he's asking about the newer fc series, not the i series.

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I would guess that the true root cause of most dispersion issues had to do with not paying attention to shaft weight and trying a graphite shaft that was just too light for the individual. And while I can't say for sure but there may have been some torque issues for some of the early generation iron shafts and faster swing speed players - but that's like more than 20-25 years ago and things have changed a lot since then.

 

Stuart - how are you liking your steelfibers?

 

Only have the 7 iron built and tested. Turned out a little softer than I expected. Not loose by any means and don't think it's having any negative impact on the results so I want to spend a little more time with it to decide if I want to hard step or not (and just haven't had a lot of free time to do that yet).

 

How are they working for you?

 

For everyone else reading, he's asking about the newer fc series, not the i series.

 

So, I had been playing x100s for years. Now in 4-PW I have the new FC 115x and in wedges I have i125 in stiff.

 

Absolutely love them so far. The static weight (and I'm sure the swingweight) is lighter so it took a couple of rounds to get used to the feel. Now I'm thoroughly enjoying the feel and performance of the new shafts. I'm also liking the lighter weight which was my biggest concern going into this new setup.

 

It's one of those things where I wish I would have been open to change long ago.

 

Also, regarding the feel it's immensely preferable to me compared to x100s. My left elbow just couldn't take the abuse any longer.

G400 LST - TPT proto
TM M3 - Rogue Silver 110MSI 70S
21* Fourteen Type 7 Driving Iron - HZRDUS Black 6.5 105g
4 - PW Mizuno MP 18 MMC - SteelFiber FC115
50, 54, 60 RC Dual Bite - SteelFiber i125
Evnroll ER5
Snell MTB Black

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Stuart G / Hack Daddy

Thanks for the info, think i will reshaft a set of G10’s this winter in the less expensive Aldila shafts 5-SW, start the proces and evaluation to see if it’s really a “ weight “ issue for me or a graphite phobia.

This could take awhile… i’m the guy who was still hitting a PowerBilt persimmon steel shafted driver two years after everyone had switched over to the original TM and Callaway graphite shafted drivers.

If this works out i would definately consider upgrading to the Recoil/Steelfiber/Fuji models.

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Is there a graphite iron shaft out there in the 95-100gm range that doesn't cost $ 45-50 per ? Thanks.

 

Not as easy to find since they are older - but you can still find some Aldila VS Proto 100's or NV 105's around. Also can occasionally find some UST Rv2 95's.

 

Another option would be to wait and see what Robin Arthur has coming. Before his problems AXE (Arthur Extreme Engineering) used to have one that was bit more reasonably priced.

 

http://www.golfwrx.c.../#entry17751298

 

Shirtdaddy still has 90-100g proto, rip, and nv iron shafts for ~$25/each.

 

I just picked up a rip phenom nl wood shaft for $54.

 

 

NV105 shafts are still listed for sale on Hireko's website. That's where I got my set a year and change ago.

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NV105 shafts are still listed for sale on Hireko's website. That's where I got my set a year and change ago.

 

Last I checked they didn't have any of the vs proto 100's left, only the 85's. I did find them at grips4less.com

 

https://www.grips4le...-tip-iron-shaft

 

The Vs-proto's are more mid launch to low-mid and likely going to be closer to the stock Ping's steel profile than the NV 105's which are more tip stiff and pretty low launch shafts - although going down a flex with those might work as another possibility - particularly if you have a smoother transition, they were considered by some to be a bit stiff to flex.

 

And realize that Ping uses a non-standard taper in their hosels which can be a bit of a PITA since the graphite tips should be re-shaped to match the taper to get a good fit (or shimmed in some way).

 

And it looks like Robin Arthur's site is up. Here is his heavier (95 gm) iron shaft:

 

https://xcalibershaf...ts/pro-x85-iron

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It's not really the bore size, it's the shape of the taper. And sorry, not sure what you're seeing in that PDF. All I see are pretty much all the irons are listed as .355".

 

If the far right column has ** after it, it means the hosel needs bored to use a .370 shaft, I assumed that meant it was the slot tip. I did some old pings, slotting the shaft tip, driving in a plug and trying to make it all look good cured me of doing Pings.

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It's not really the bore size, it's the shape of the taper. And sorry, not sure what you're seeing in that PDF. All I see are pretty much all the irons are listed as .355".

 

If the far right column has ** after it, it means the hosel needs bored to use a .370 shaft, I assumed that meant it was the slot tip.

 

I don't think so. That just means that it's a .355 tapered bore AND some of the recommendations for a replacement include parallel tip shafts. The ** is missing when the recommendation only includes taper tip shafts. At least that's how it looks to me. It's generally the only way to get a steel parallel tip shaft into any standard .355 hosel so I don't see that recommendation as an indication of anything special.

 

Last ones I worked on were the i5's and they certainly weren't' bore through or any special type of "slot tip".

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For everyone else reading, he's asking about the newer fc series, not the i series.

 

That makes more sense as I never found the I series to play softer than expected. So have Aerotech tried to add a little more feel to the fc series?

 

I believe the goal was to produce a flighted type of iron shaft.

 

"The new progressive tip design of the SteelFiber FC shafts delivers higher ball flight in the mid- and long irons while maintaining the classic SteelFiber launch in the scoring irons. "

http://www.golfwrx.c...-questions-now/

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