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Cast blades? (and small players cb's)


chipa

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Cast blades aren't that easy to find but I think they are honestly easier to hit for those that like the smaller heads and offset but not all of the pain of mishits.

 

I have a set in 304 soft stainless steel and they feel as soft as some blades I've tried - Acer XV Tour. I have them 6-S and the Acer XV Pro for the 4 and 5 irons which is the same size really only with a small cb. I've been playing exclusively small cb's or blades in 304 SS for 5 years now.

 

I have never hit anything better in 15 years of golf, nor farther for that matter.

"Shirtsleeve" swing technique:

1. Setup: Elbows bent forearms pressed together against shaft slightly forward of center with "Hogan" "active/flexed" leg tension left foot turned out slightly and the right leg slightly farther to the right - weight mostly on balls of feet butt of left hands sits on the top of the grip with very light grip.

2. Swing - W/o disturbing weight distribution of legs and feet lower hands while doing a forward press "swing trigger" then the left upper arm takes over on the backswing, it needs to go out in front of the body then back in front of the chest as the hands trace down initially then up to over the right shoulder "Torres". The goal is to not disturb the pressure of the feet during the initial takeaway.

 

Notes:

1. Only swing thought after swing trigger - extend left arm at shirt sleeve when reaching left hand over right shoulder "Shirtsleeve technique".

2. The upper left arm move "Shirtsleeve technique" can be practiced independently without a club, sitting down for instance

3. The correct feet tension can be felt by doing very short hops on the balls of the feet then holding the same feeling of pressure on the front of the feet and then taking three practice swings with the grip very loose in order to not disturb the same pressure on the feet and on the 3rd swing actively do the "Shirtsleeve" move. From there the swing should be done within a matter of seconds to not lose the feel of the legs resisting, this way this is not a learned technique as much as it is a setup technique.

 

 

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2 minutes ago, vietnameeh said:

Australian blades .... if you can find them 

 

Please elaborate. I started a thread about small forged iron companies, but I would be interested in small Aussie shops, too. Cast or forged.

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54 minutes ago, lefthack said:

 

Please elaborate. I started a thread about small forged iron companies, but I would be interested in small Aussie shops, too. Cast or forged.

He's talking about Maxfli Australian blades. I still have them in my practice bag due to their durability. They came out a long time ago.

 

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/DDMAAOSwqBJXUJvd/s-l640.jpg

Edited by ex0dus
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55 minutes ago, lefthack said:

 

Please elaborate. I started a thread about small forged iron companies, but I would be interested in small Aussie shops, too. Cast or forged.

 

Sorry my fault Maxfli Austrailian Blades

 

Also the Maxfli Revolution Irons were cast CB but were incredibly soft for a cast iron

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Haywood 1 with Hzrdus Black RDX 70

Haywood 3W PXG 0211 5W

Haywood 18* driving iron

Haywood MB irons 3-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Haywood 52/10 and 56/12 wedges

Haywood mid mallet putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips 

 

"You're not good enough to get mad at your bad shots!" - Bill Murray

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2 hours ago, ex0dus said:

He's talking about Maxfli Australian blades. I still have them in my practice bag due to their durability. They came out a long time ago.

 

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/DDMAAOSwqBJXUJvd/s-l640.jpg

Oh wow, those look really good. I had no idea.

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Haywood 1 with Hzrdus Black RDX 70

Haywood 3W PXG 0211 5W

Haywood 18* driving iron

Haywood MB irons 3-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Haywood 52/10 and 56/12 wedges

Haywood mid mallet putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips 

 

"You're not good enough to get mad at your bad shots!" - Bill Murray

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2 hours ago, lefthack said:

 

I dig those, neither in lefty. Damn.

Those heads have been around 10-15yrs I think.

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5 minutes ago, Bad9 said:

Those heads have been around 10-15yrs I think.

 

I like a lot of their stuff, but very little of it is lefty. Such is life.

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Haywood 1 with Hzrdus Black RDX 70

Haywood 3W PXG 0211 5W

Haywood 18* driving iron

Haywood MB irons 3-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Haywood 52/10 and 56/12 wedges

Haywood mid mallet putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips 

 

"You're not good enough to get mad at your bad shots!" - Bill Murray

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6 hours ago, chipa said:

Cast blades aren't that easy to find but I think they are honestly easier to hit for those that like the smaller heads and offset but not all of the pain of mishits.

Are you saying if one has two identical heads, one forged, the other cast, the cast one won’t be as “painful” on mishits and will be easier to hit? Interesting. 

Edited by TIScape
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The people that play Blades don't want cast blades; I don't.  I've played blades on and off since taking up the game.  My reasoning has to do with how I feel the strike of the ball with the club-head up the shaft to my hands.  When I strike the ball with my 620 MB blade, even 620 CB, without looking up to see where the ball is going, I can tell by impact which direction the ball went and whether I struck in solidly or off center a tad.  I can tell in my hands if I put too much draw or fade on the ball or if it's straight. 

 

Contrary to the prevailing advertising by non-forged club makers, I believe the ball comes off cast material faster than forged material.  I am not convinced that CAST MB is easier to hit than forged MB, either.  However, it may be that mishits on a cast MB face are not as noticeable maybe due to the head material being fractionally harder and that the ball comes off faster.  That's why I play 620s.

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29 minutes ago, iNeedMoreGolf said:

The callaway epic irons that came out a few years ago are cast and were very squated length overall like a blade... just more offsett.... topline and sole were not huge but not blade small.

Epic irons are forged, least that is what it says on Callaway's website - https://is.gd/EbY5Ft

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1 hour ago, TIScape said:

Are you saying if one has two identical heads, one forged, the other cast, the cast one won’t be as “painful” on mishits and will be easier to hit? Interesting. 

 

I'm saying the soft cast 304 s.s. doesn't hurt near as much.

"Shirtsleeve" swing technique:

1. Setup: Elbows bent forearms pressed together against shaft slightly forward of center with "Hogan" "active/flexed" leg tension left foot turned out slightly and the right leg slightly farther to the right - weight mostly on balls of feet butt of left hands sits on the top of the grip with very light grip.

2. Swing - W/o disturbing weight distribution of legs and feet lower hands while doing a forward press "swing trigger" then the left upper arm takes over on the backswing, it needs to go out in front of the body then back in front of the chest as the hands trace down initially then up to over the right shoulder "Torres". The goal is to not disturb the pressure of the feet during the initial takeaway.

 

Notes:

1. Only swing thought after swing trigger - extend left arm at shirt sleeve when reaching left hand over right shoulder "Shirtsleeve technique".

2. The upper left arm move "Shirtsleeve technique" can be practiced independently without a club, sitting down for instance

3. The correct feet tension can be felt by doing very short hops on the balls of the feet then holding the same feeling of pressure on the front of the feet and then taking three practice swings with the grip very loose in order to not disturb the same pressure on the feet and on the 3rd swing actively do the "Shirtsleeve" move. From there the swing should be done within a matter of seconds to not lose the feel of the legs resisting, this way this is not a learned technique as much as it is a setup technique.

 

 

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1 hour ago, Pepperturbo said:

The people that play Blades don't want cast blades; I don't.  I've played blades on and off since taking up the game.  My reasoning has to do with how I feel the strike of the ball with the club-head up the shaft to my hands.  When I strike the ball with my 620 MB blade, even 620 CB, without looking up to see where the ball is going, I can tell by impact which direction the ball went and whether I struck in solidly or off center a tad.  I can tell in my hands if I put too much draw or fade on the ball or if it's straight. 

 

Contrary to the prevailing advertising by non-forged club makers, I believe the ball comes off cast material faster than forged material.  I am not convinced that CAST MB is easier to hit than forged MB, either.  However, it may be that mishits on a cast MB face are not as noticeable maybe due to the head material being fractionally harder and that the ball comes off faster.  That's why I play 620s.

 

Honestly I think the grain being oriented due to grain flow in the forging process is the reason that more vibration is transmitted to the hands during mishits because according to the standard of metal hardness "Rockwell hardness" forged clubs are between 20 and 90 on the Rockwell scale and 304 SS is right in the middle at 70. Cast metal is not as an efficient transmitter of heat due to natural voids and probably naturally dampens vibrations as well, hence that is why it would be attractive to higher h.c. golfers like myself. However, in spite of the fact that that cast blades would transmit less vibration they still are subject to torquing forces around the center of gravity so they will twist the same as forged so that feedback would be transmitted to the hands. Below is a thread about the hardness of forged steel. The hardness of 304 ss can be looked up on google.

 

 

Edited by chipa
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"Shirtsleeve" swing technique:

1. Setup: Elbows bent forearms pressed together against shaft slightly forward of center with "Hogan" "active/flexed" leg tension left foot turned out slightly and the right leg slightly farther to the right - weight mostly on balls of feet butt of left hands sits on the top of the grip with very light grip.

2. Swing - W/o disturbing weight distribution of legs and feet lower hands while doing a forward press "swing trigger" then the left upper arm takes over on the backswing, it needs to go out in front of the body then back in front of the chest as the hands trace down initially then up to over the right shoulder "Torres". The goal is to not disturb the pressure of the feet during the initial takeaway.

 

Notes:

1. Only swing thought after swing trigger - extend left arm at shirt sleeve when reaching left hand over right shoulder "Shirtsleeve technique".

2. The upper left arm move "Shirtsleeve technique" can be practiced independently without a club, sitting down for instance

3. The correct feet tension can be felt by doing very short hops on the balls of the feet then holding the same feeling of pressure on the front of the feet and then taking three practice swings with the grip very loose in order to not disturb the same pressure on the feet and on the 3rd swing actively do the "Shirtsleeve" move. From there the swing should be done within a matter of seconds to not lose the feel of the legs resisting, this way this is not a learned technique as much as it is a setup technique.

 

 

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Just now, TIScape said:

Well best of luck finding a blade cast with the metal your looking for. I’d imagine it’s a short list! 🤞🏼

 

It's out there in various component clubs from different manufacturers, like my Acer XV Tours. I bought my first set back in 2006 from Golfsmith.

"Shirtsleeve" swing technique:

1. Setup: Elbows bent forearms pressed together against shaft slightly forward of center with "Hogan" "active/flexed" leg tension left foot turned out slightly and the right leg slightly farther to the right - weight mostly on balls of feet butt of left hands sits on the top of the grip with very light grip.

2. Swing - W/o disturbing weight distribution of legs and feet lower hands while doing a forward press "swing trigger" then the left upper arm takes over on the backswing, it needs to go out in front of the body then back in front of the chest as the hands trace down initially then up to over the right shoulder "Torres". The goal is to not disturb the pressure of the feet during the initial takeaway.

 

Notes:

1. Only swing thought after swing trigger - extend left arm at shirt sleeve when reaching left hand over right shoulder "Shirtsleeve technique".

2. The upper left arm move "Shirtsleeve technique" can be practiced independently without a club, sitting down for instance

3. The correct feet tension can be felt by doing very short hops on the balls of the feet then holding the same feeling of pressure on the front of the feet and then taking three practice swings with the grip very loose in order to not disturb the same pressure on the feet and on the 3rd swing actively do the "Shirtsleeve" move. From there the swing should be done within a matter of seconds to not lose the feel of the legs resisting, this way this is not a learned technique as much as it is a setup technique.

 

 

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BGD series one blades are cast. Modeled after the P7TW.

 

 

 

 

bgd-header-intro-2.png

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Haywood 1 with Hzrdus Black RDX 70

Haywood 3W PXG 0211 5W

Haywood 18* driving iron

Haywood MB irons 3-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Haywood 52/10 and 56/12 wedges

Haywood mid mallet putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips 

 

"You're not good enough to get mad at your bad shots!" - Bill Murray

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7 minutes ago, chipa said:

 

Honestly I think the grain being oriented due to grain flow in the forging process is the reason that more vibration is transmitted to the hands during mishits because according to the standard of metal hardness "Rockwell hardness" forged clubs are between 20 and 90 on the Rockwell scale and 304 SS is right in the middle at 70. Cast metal is not as an efficient transmitter of heat due to natural voids and probably naturally dampens vibrations as well, hence that is why it would be attractive to higher h.c. golfers like myself. However, in spite of the fact that that cast blades would transmit less vibration they still are subject to torquing forces around the center of gravity so they will twist the same as forged so that feedback would be transmitted to the hands. Below is a thread about the hardness of forged steel. The hardness of 304 ss can be looked up on google.

 

 

Thanks for that. 

 

Don't want to go off-topic but to further explain; I have been a knife enthusiast since childhood, throwing knives specifically.  Only that skill is not as pronounced today as it was during my younger years.  Anyway, later in my 20s, I was introduced to high-end German steel, and much later Japanese steel used for forging knife blades used by chefs around the world. 

 

I understand the forging process quite well.  What's interesting is when I type in 304 SS into my steel guide reference book for knives, it comes up as used for budget grade and display knives, and there at least 15 different blends or versions of it under different names.  LOL. 

 

Though knives are a different topic, interesting how the similarities between cast and forged show up in discussions regarding knives.  In the knife world, forged edge provides a greater feel of the cut compared to stamped or cast blades, that don't hold an edge very long.  Seasoned chefs and serious cooks like myself use high grade Rockwell 57-64 German or Japanese forged steel, and leave Cutco brand and much softer Swiss and German quality steels for lower price point knives or sets. 

 

I don't want to change the topic further, so back to your regularly scheduled debate about what's best.

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7 hours ago, lefthack said:

 

I dig those, neither in lefty. Damn.

 

Ah, you're not missing out. The blades you have coming will be otherworldly in comparison.

 

To be honest OP, I don't see many irons casted in 304. I use a lot of it at my place of work in an industrial setting. 417 stainless (carpenter) stuff has always seem to be the choice of alloy used for golf clubs, more so the faces on 2 piece models. Interesting thought process on the grain structure and casted voids leading to less vibration transmitted. I don't agree with it personally, I don't think the golf ball is hard enough to test that theory. 

 

I knew I had seen a set not long ago. SVG tour blades; they're 304. MDC also makes a blade, but they're a 417. I built a set for fun, very very clicky. 

Screenshot_20210303-194737_eBay.jpg

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I go back and forth between clean, simple muscle backs and crazy overworked cnc blingy setups. The JDM stuff goes either way.

 

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Haywood 1 with Hzrdus Black RDX 70

Haywood 3W PXG 0211 5W

Haywood 18* driving iron

Haywood MB irons 3-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Haywood 52/10 and 56/12 wedges

Haywood mid mallet putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips 

 

"You're not good enough to get mad at your bad shots!" - Bill Murray

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