Jump to content
2024 John Deere Classic WITB Photos ×

Learning To Hit A Draw Essentially Ruins Your Swing?


Denny100

Recommended Posts

I wanted to post this as i dont really understand the logic why coaches will want to teach amateurs a draw, OTHER THAN the fact amateurs tend to slice.

 

But thats SLICING, a SLICE isnt just a "big fade".

 

If you for example make a ploy to play a draw off the tee, you would have to shift the swing path significantly to the right (to account for the upward angle of attack of the driver), and then when it comes to the irons, the swing path would end up being massively inside out and lead to a very unstable ball flight.

 

In this example, the amateur then has to aim their clubface more and more AWAY from the target to accompany the drastically inside out swing path.

 

It makes very lttle sense to me. Its just asking for trouble and terrible shot patterns left AND right.

 

Anyone else think this?

  • Confused 3

Driver: Taylormade M2 (set at 8.5); Graphite Design AD DI5-X

3 Wood: PXG GEN 3 0341X 15.5; HZRDUS Yellow 70 6.5

Hybrid: PXG GEN 5 0311XF 19; HZRDUS Black 6.5

Irons: Titleist T100s 4-PW; Dynamic Gold X100

Wedges: PXG 0311 Forged 50, 54, 58; Dynamic Gold Tour Issue S400

Putter: Odyssey Pro 9 White Hot

Ball: Titleist Pro V1x 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The difference between a draw, fade, and a straight flying shot are very small, especially from a math of impact perspective, and none of them require a significant shift in path.  I completely understand having a preferred ball flight, but I also believe that all golfers should be aware of how to execute all three ball flights as those skills are very necessary from shot to shot in a given round of golf.  If you are hitting hooks then yes, you should absolutely be trying to get into a fade orientation in relation to the ball to soften the hook and vice versa. These skills are mandatory in my opinion and they are dead simple easy once you understand the math of impact.  

 

This is a model representation of a straight flying shot being hit off the ground:

image.png.969565d5a61d5b87357eea95656dd68c.png

 

And this is a model representation of a straight flying shot being hit off of a tee: 

image.png.5c8438027be7abdb9f49f4678f7f3cb3.png

 

In either instance if you simply hold the face in place and then move your plane / shoulder line to the left a few degrees, you will create a fade, and if you moved it to the right a few degrees you would create a draw because you have created a difference between face and path required to tilt the spin axis the ball is rotating on.  These adjustments should not be drastic because it doesn't take much to  tilt the spin axis but most don't take the time to learn the fundamentals of impact and it greatly stunts their improvement.  

Edited by Righty to Lefty
Corrected Information
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 4/13/2023 at 6:56 AM, caniac6 said:

Don’t you have to do just the opposite of what you said to hit a fade? Pretty tough to hit consistently straight shots.

You are correct, too early in the morning and I didn't proof read the post well enough!  Hitting the ball straight is no more difficult than hitting a draw or a fade if you understand impact.  I can put up a video of me talkin my Son into hitting a straight shot within 2 shots because if you get into the right location to the ball a straight, draw, or fade ball flight will happen naturally. You can barely tell the setup difference between the  first shot that faded and the second one that flew straight.

On 4/13/2023 at 7:03 AM, Ferguson said:

Hitting it one way or another is not the opposite of the other.  It's also not the over manipulation of any one thing. 

Hitting an equivalent draw and fade are exactly opposite of one another.  I am not exactly sure what you mean by your second statement but the only variable to creating shot shape is your plane shoulder line as the face must point at your given start line and the low point of your swing arc must be in a certain location in relation to the ball or your strike will be compromised.  The only variable is how much of a difference between face and path you create and though you may feel like you draw or fade the ball more easily the math to create an equivalent draw and fade are the same. 

 

Edited by Righty to Lefty
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Ferguson said:

Hitting it one way or another is not the opposite of the other.  It's also not the over manipulation of any one thing. 

What I meant was that if you aim right to hit a draw, you have to aim left to hit a fade. Both shots require aiming away from the target. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

33 minutes ago, caniac6 said:

What I meant was that if you aim right to hit a draw, you have to aim left to hit a fade. Both shots require aiming away from the target. 

 

I guess I never considered it aiming away.  Like the apex of a breaking putt, the apex is the target, not the hole.  Most AMs have a general idea of how much fade or draw but fail to be consistent.   I am lucky - at a young age, I learned to move the ball both ways. 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would agree that a significantly inside to out club path isn't ideal but you don't need that to hit a draw. It's more about learning the proper delivery from which it is easier to make adjustments to hit different ball flights if desired. 

  • Like 1

Titleist TSi3 10° TPO 1K 60-TX
Callaway Ai Smoke TD 15° Devotion HB 75-X
Wilson Staff Utility 3/21° HZRDUS 4G 6.5
Wilson Staff Blades 4-9 PX 6.5

Mizuno T20 47-07 PX 6.5

Mizuno T22 52-09 56-10 PX 6.5

Vokey SM9 60-04T PX Wedge 6.5
Special Select Squareback 2 w/ SuperStroke Pistol GT 1.0

ProV1x

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The big issue is - is there a flaw in the swing?  If there is a flaw in the swing, it is usually better to fix the flaw.  What happens when you have corrected the flaw (or the best that can be done) should be the natural flight.  Whether it be straight, draw or fade.  You shouldn't mess with whatever that is.  Learn to hit it as good as you can with whatever swing you have.

 

Now learning how to hit a draw or a fade and only using it when there is an advantage to using it, is another thing.  I predominately hit a straight ball.  I also know how to create a fade or a draw.  95% of my shots are to hit it straight.

 

I know too many who have decided to get "better" and decided to hit a fade or draw when it's not their natural shot.  Many of them end up frustrated and losing their game and take up some other sport.

  • Like 2

Ping G430 10K 10.5º Chrome 2.0 S (Didn't make the cut)

Ping G400 9º TFC 419 Stiff at 45" (still the GOAT)

Jazz 3 wd Powercoil Stiff
Rogue 3iron Recoil 660 F3 +1/2"
X2 Hot 4-AW Recoil 660 F3 +1/2"
Vokey SM2 56°, SM2 60°
Ping Sigma2 Valor at 34.75"
MCC Align Midsize

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Emphasizing draws or fades involves trade-offs. In general, draws spin less and tend to run out more, and fades have more spin and tend to land softer. This Draw vs. Fade link discusses other pros and cons.

 

3 hours ago, Denny100 said:

If you for example make a ploy to play a draw off the tee, you would have to shift the swing path significantly to the right (to account for the upward angle of attack of the driver), and then when it comes to the irons, the swing path would end up being massively inside out and lead to a very unstable ball flight.

 

First of all, I'm not sure why you use these rather imprecise adverbs in describing alignment. Aiming toes a few degrees to left (open)  for fade or a few to right (closed) for draw will get it done.

 

image.png.19c07116fb22d127d207691b24ad5074.png

To left is a diagram of how Nicklaus lined up to hit a fade, his stock shot in early part of career. (He later used a draw in times when his hip was injured.)

 

In Nicklaus-style fade, align toes to left of target, clubface square to target, and work ball back to right.

 

For a Nicklaus draw you would do the opposite.

 

Modern takes on ball movement suggest for draw, aim to right and have clubface open slightly less to right, and get a curve that way. This gets into a lot of hair splitting and attempts at fine tuning for benefits I find are less than the risk.

 

And, moving ball position up or back can help in fine-tuning control of draw or fade. But, the Nicklaus scheme is basic set-up for stance-controlled shot shaping.

 

In the 1950s, some instructors such as Masters champ Doug Ford recommended grip-controlled shot shaping. For a draw, aim to right and take a strong grip with lower hand so hands rotate back to left. For a fade, aim left and take a weak grip so hands rotate back to right. This fell out of favor because it's hard to maintain consistency.

 

1 hour ago, caniac6 said:

What I meant was that if you aim right to hit a draw, you have to aim left to hit a fade. Both shots require aiming away from the target. 

 

Nicklaus method has you align toes to right for draw or left for fade, but have the clubface square to target line (red arrow). 

  • Thanks 1

What's In The Bag (As of April 2023, post-MAX change + new putter)

 

Driver:  Tour Edge EXS 10.5° (base loft); weights neutral   ||  FWs:  Calla Rogue 4W + 7W

Hybrid:  Calla Big Bertha OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  Calla Mavrik MAX 5i-PW

Wedges*:  Calla MD3: 48°... MD4: 54°, 58° ||  PutterΨSeeMore FGP + SuperStroke 1.0PT, 33" shaft

Ball: 1. Srixon Q-Star Tour / 2. Calla SuperHot (Orange preferred)  ||  Bag: Sun Mountain Three 5 stand bag

    * MD4 54°/10 S-Grind replaced MD3 54°/12 W-Grind.

     Ψ  Backups:

  • Ping Sigma G Tyne (face-balanced) + Evnroll Gravity Grip |
  • Slotline Inertial SL-583F w/ SuperStroke 2.MidSlim (50 gr. weight removed) |
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 4/13/2023 at 8:51 AM, caniac6 said:

What I meant was that if you aim right to hit a draw, you have to aim left to hit a fade. Both shots require aiming away from the target. 

Well sure you have to aim away from the target if you intend to hit a draw or fade to make the shot finish on the target line unless you intend to hit the shot straight.  Hitting the ball straight is not as difficult as many make it seem thus the stigma that hitting the ball straight is "hard" when it is no more difficult than hitting your start line on a draw or a fade, though I will agree that you can increase your margin of error because you can aim further left or right of the middle of the fairway, rather than splitting the difference trying to hit the shot straight. I often aim to the extreme side of a fairway with the notion that I am going to hit a straight shot, and the ball can go no further left or right of my given aim point depending on where trouble is, so I am using that same margin of error to my advantage while playing a straight ball factoring in a club face and path will move away from the trouble if I don't execute the straight shot instead. So instead of saying I'm going to "draw or fade a ball off a bunker," I aim at the edge of it and try to his a straight ball at that edge and if I don't get it quite right the ball will draw or fade away from the bunker. 

 

I found the best way to go about things is to start with hitting straight shots to a certain target with all clubs, and then move onward to playing draws and fades making them start at the same target and curve away from it so that you can gauge how much you have to move your plane to create a certain amount of curvature. Once you gain the desired amount of curvature you can then move your start line that amount right or left of the target line and try to make the shots finish on your target line but that is my process that I found worked best when I switched over from playing righty to lefty.  If your baseline is a straight ball then you are much closer to either a draw or a fade and the adjustments are much smaller, thus easier, than going from predominantly a fader or drawer to the polar opposite shot shape.  

 

Anyone believing that they have a "natural shot shape" is a false statement in my opinion because it shows a misunderstanding of impact.  My Son is a rank beginner and he never hits a slice. His ball flies dead straight unless he gets out of position to the ball and if he sees any type of curvature to his shot he immediately corrects it on the next shot.  His main flaw is not realizing that after he has hit 500 balls that he has to adjust his orientation to low point, so as he fatigues, he will start topping balls but he now knows that there is nothing wrong with his swing, it's that as he fatigues he has to move his low point progressively further in front of the ball to maintain leverage as we all must do when shot does not fly as expected or we begin to fatigue.  

 

On 4/13/2023 at 10:46 AM, ChipNRun said:

 

 

image.png.19c07116fb22d127d207691b24ad5074.png

To left is a diagram of how Nicklaus lined up to hit a fade, his stock shot in early part of career. (He later used a draw in times when his hip was injured.)

 

In Nicklaus-style fade, align toes to left of target, clubface square to target, and work ball back to right.

 

For a Nicklaus draw you would do the opposite.

 

Modern takes on ball movement suggest for draw, aim to right and have clubface open slightly less to right, and get a curve that way. This gets into a lot of hair splitting and attempts at fine tuning for benefits I find are less than the risk.

 

And, moving ball position up or back can help in fine-tuning control of draw or fade. But, the Nicklaus scheme is basic set-up for stance-controlled shot shaping.

 

In the 1950s, some instructors such as Masters champ Doug Ford recommended grip-controlled shot shaping. For a draw, aim to right and take a strong grip with lower hand so hands rotate back to left. For a fade, aim left and take a weak grip so hands rotate back to right. This fell out of favor because it's hard to maintain consistency.

 

 

Nicklaus method has you align toes to right for draw or left for fade, but have the clubface square to target line (red arrow). 

Well Jack is wrong in this diagram and also so many details are left out that are very important.  First off if you hit a shot like this diagram shows you will NEVER hit the target line and the ball will ALWAYS miss to the right of the target because the ball will start along the target line and move away from it. You must aim away from the target line to make a ball finish on it if you are playing shot shape. Also the club does not follow the line of the feet in any case, it follows the line of the shoulders as the club is being held in the hands and the shoulder plane is the line that should be monitored. The old drop your back foot advice with driver is only useful if the shoulder line changes as you drop the foot back.  That is also a diagram for a ball being hit off the ground with a negative angle of attack as a ball being hit up on with a positive angle of attack would have the shoulder plane/ line right of the target line for both draws and fades.  Jack was describing what he was "feeling" and was doing the best he could with the information he had at the time, but it was incorrect. 

Edited by Righty to Lefty
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

25 minutes ago, Righty to Lefty said:

Also the club does not follow the line of the feet in any case, it follows the line of the shoulders as the club is being held in the hands and the shoulder plane is the line that should be monitored.

 

RtoL's statement seems to summarize the conventional wisdom of golf instructors in the pre-2000 era. Research published by Trackman(c) in its January 2009 newsletter showed different. Data analysis indicated that for horizontal launch angle (fade-straight-draw continuum) roughly 15% was determined by club path and 85% by clubface angle.

 

Although Nicklaus was describing feel rather than results of data analysis, his diagram is compatible with the Trackman report some 35 years later. The link to the Trackman report, however, has been deactivated. However, you can scare up some post-2000 discussions by googling Ball Flight Laws. 

  • Thanks 1

What's In The Bag (As of April 2023, post-MAX change + new putter)

 

Driver:  Tour Edge EXS 10.5° (base loft); weights neutral   ||  FWs:  Calla Rogue 4W + 7W

Hybrid:  Calla Big Bertha OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  Calla Mavrik MAX 5i-PW

Wedges*:  Calla MD3: 48°... MD4: 54°, 58° ||  PutterΨSeeMore FGP + SuperStroke 1.0PT, 33" shaft

Ball: 1. Srixon Q-Star Tour / 2. Calla SuperHot (Orange preferred)  ||  Bag: Sun Mountain Three 5 stand bag

    * MD4 54°/10 S-Grind replaced MD3 54°/12 W-Grind.

     Ψ  Backups:

  • Ping Sigma G Tyne (face-balanced) + Evnroll Gravity Grip |
  • Slotline Inertial SL-583F w/ SuperStroke 2.MidSlim (50 gr. weight removed) |
Link to comment
Share on other sites

OP yes you are correct for the most part, especially when trying to force a draw with the driver.
 

There are two ways to create a draw and most amateurs play would I would consider an “improper” draw by manufacturing the inside out path/shallowing the shaft with their body via excessive tilt from the target. This comes from the swing to right field, hit the inside of the ball type school of thought. When over done this creates low point issues, strike issues, improper pressure shift, overly right swing direction/path, shanks, tops, etc. Literal swing killer

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is there some big issue with instructors trying to force novices / bad players into a draw pattern? 

 

I figure most instructors are dealing with golfers who are severely OTT and with majorly flawed swings. They happen to slice because of that. Fixing the slice doesn't necessarily entail the student hitting a draw. 

  • Like 1

Ping G25 10.5* w/ Diamana 'ahina 70 x5ct stiff (set -0.5 to 10*)

Sub70 Pro Tour 5w w/ Aldila NV NXT 85 stiff

Wishon EQ1-NX 4h, 5i-GW single-length built to 37.5" w/ Nippon Modus3 120 stiff

Sub70 286 52/10, 286 56/12, and JB 60/6 wedges, black, built to 36.75" w/ Nippon Modus3 120 stiff

Sub70 Sycamore Mallet putter @ 36.5" with Winn midsize pistol grip

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I find that teaching a "draw" swing to beginners helps them get into better positions and improves their overall move at the ball.

 

Most beginners don't use their lower body correctly in the swing, and it essentially forces them to have a steep out/in swing that produces a weak spinny fade at best.

 

So while I'll tell them hitting a fade is actually the preferred shot by most high level/great players, the feeling of hitting a correct draw will more quickly improve their overall swing and get them to actually compress the ball. They can then go back to fading all they want if they prefer it.

Edited by Blaiser
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
On 4/13/2023 at 1:39 PM, Blaiser said:

I find that teaching a "draw" swing to beginners helps them get into better positions and improves their overall move at the ball.

 

Most beginners don't use their lower body correctly in the swing, and it essentially forces them to have a steep out/in swing that produces a weak spinny fade at best.

 

So while I'll tell them hitting a fade is actually the preferred shot by most high level/great players, the feeling of hitting a correct draw will more quickly improve their overall swing and get them to actually compress the ball. They can then go back to fading all they want if they prefer it.

 

my coach is teaching me to hit a push draw even though I didn't really have a preference on shot shape

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 4/13/2023 at 9:27 AM, Ferguson said:

 

I guess I never considered it aiming away.  Like the apex of a breaking putt, the apex is the target, not the hole.  Most AMs have a general idea of how much fade or draw but fail to be consistent.   I am lucky - at a young age, I learned to move the ball both ways. 

 

Well... technically, if you aim at the APEX you would miss low every time.. You gotta aim outside of the apex lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

34 minutes ago, Three_Jack said:

 

Well... technically, if you aim at the APEX you would miss low every time.. You gotta aim outside of the apex lol

More technically, the ball is sitting on the apex of the curve at address on every single-breaking putt. It starts falling to the low side immediately after contact. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you have to go to extremes to hit a shot constantly, yes you will wreck your swing.  You shouldn't have to go to extremes to hit a fade or draw it unless you were already extreme to hit your current stock shot. 

SIM 2 Max 9.0 turned 7.0
TM Sim2 Titaniu, 13.5
TM RBZ 19* hybrid

TM RBZ 22* hybrid
Mizuno JPX 900 HM 5-PW
Vokey SM7 48* F Grind
Vokey SM7 54* F Grind
Vokey SM7 58* M Grind

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not sure where the OP heard that.  It's NOT what I have encountered at multiple clubs.  At the clubs I frequent, Golf instructors either follow a student's tendency or they may teach a fade; otherwise they teach fundamentals with idea being to hit the ball relatively straight.  But there's this: Most people hit slices or fades as those flight paths come naturally to the majority.  It's also the other way around, those that hit natural draws tend to want a natural fade, as they can talk to it.

 

I hit the ball straight, but move the ball right or left if the shot requires.  Once someone knows how to consistently hit the ball, adjusting setup to accommodate a certain flight-path should NOT be mentally debilitating or destructive.

Edited by Pepperturbo
  • TSR2 9.25° Ventus Velo, Red 59S
  • TSR2 15° Tour AD-VF 74S
  • 718 TMB 17° 2i Tensei AV White Am2 90S
  • T100 3i & 4i MMT 95S
  • T100 5i-9i MMT 105S
  • T100 PW MMT 105S Wedge
  • SM10 F52.12, T58.4, DG200 127S
  • SC/CA Monterey
  • DASH -ProV1x or AVX
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you're hitting a slice, the goal should be to fix the swing mechanics that cause the slice.  Generally better mechanics naturally create a draw flight, so maybe where that thought comes from?

 

If you want to hit a fade or a draw, if you're swing mechanics are decent enough, it's just a matter of ball position.

Taylormade Qi10 9*

Taylormade Stealth 3w

Taylormade Stealth 19* Hybrid

Taylormade Stealth 22* Hybrid

Taylormade P770  5-PW

MG2 50/54

MG3 58

TM Itsy Bitsy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 4/13/2023 at 7:29 AM, Denny100 said:

I wanted to post this as i dont really understand the logic why coaches will want to teach amateurs a draw, OTHER THAN the fact amateurs tend to slice.

 

I think you expect that a coach teaches how to curve the ball and the reason why the ball goes right or left this or that way.  There are a lot of kids and some beginners with enough potential to learn and control the ball. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Considering the fact that most amateurs early stages are :

  • Why can't I hit that little f***er?
  • Ah, there you go, well that was not very far.
  • That was a bit further but why is it curving right like that.
  • Let me smack the sh*t out of that stupid ball sitting there. Damn, that's right of the planet

That results from a spinny, OTT, compensatory EE to not come in steep as a Jeep : path going left and face wide open at impact. One would think teaching a 'draw' move is more then welcomed. Now, if you become aware of the pattern and turn it into a possible snap hook, that's on you

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Searching Youtube and based on my experience with 4 instructors over the past 10 years, most of them talk about the "baby draw" as the pinnacle of perfect golf shots.  Over the past 10 years (55 now) I my knowledge of the golf swing has improved significantly and with my current coach, whom I have been with for 3 years now, I said that I wanted to hit a fade as that is what my minds eye see's after so many years of fading/slicing.  But get to the point where it was a little more fade and less slice.  That has drastically changed the narrative of the lessons.  For many years I had 2-3 pull hooks in the bag as I was trying to do something that my body would not cooperate with so my hands just took over.  Now I no longer have any "pressure" to move the ball R to L and lessons are going much better.

 

I agree with your post.  Skilled players who want to go single digit should really learn to work ball in both directions and understand swing intricacies.  Average Joes just wanting to shoot in 80/90's and not loose 6 balls a round need to understand their body and minimize extremes.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I exhibit roses, which means I work on roses every day it isn't raining and practice my swing in my back yard until after the June rose shows. 

Last week I did a presentation at the local rose club to encourage more members to bring roses to our show this weekend.

Which means 2 months of swing practice after winter.

Third season of doing this.  This year I worked on working the ball.  I watch the filght path as well as how the ball moves after it hits the ground.

I also worked on ball first contact.  Real balls work better for this as I can hear the click before the club hits ground if I swing slow.

 

Every year my practice drills get harder.

Edited by ShortGolfer
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Our picks

    • 2024 John Deere Classic - Discussion and Links to Photos
      Please put any questions or comments here
       
       
       
      General Albums
       
      2024 John Deere Classic - Monday #1
      2024 John Deere Classic - Monday #2
      2024 John Deere Classic - Tuesday #1
      2024 John Deere Classic - Tuesday #2
      2024 John Deere Classic - Tuesday #3
      2024 John Deere Classic - Tuesday #4
       
       
       
       
       
      WITB Albums
       
      Jason Day - WITB - 2024 John Deere Classic
      Josh Teater - WITB - 2024 John Deere Classic
      Michael Thorbjornsen - WITB - 2024 John Deere Classic
      Austin Smotherman - WITB - 2024 John Deere Classic
      Joseph Bramlett - WITB - 2024 John Deere Classic
      C.T. Pan - WITB - 2024 John Deere Classic
      Anders Albertson - WITB - 2024 John Deere Classic
      Seung Yul Noh - WITB - 2024 John Deere Classic
      Blake Hathcoat - WITB - 2024 John Deere Classic
      Jimmy Stanger - WITB - 2024 John Deere Classic
      Cole Sherwood - WITB - 2024 John Deere Classic
      Anders Larson - WITB - 2024 John Deere Classic
      Bill Haas - WITB - 2024 John Deere Classic
      Tommy "2 Gloves" Gainey WITB – 2024 John Deere Classic
       
      Pullout Albums
       
      Garrick Higgo - 2 Aretera shafts in the bag - 2024 John Deere Classic
      Jhonattan Vegas' custom Cameron putter - 2024 John Deere Classic
      Bud Cauley's custom Cameron putter - 2024 John Deere Classic
      2 new Super Stroke Marvel comics grips - 2024 John Deere Classic
      Swag blade putter - 2024 John Deere Classic
      Swag Golf - Joe Dirt covers - 2024 John Deere Classic
       
       
       
       
       
      • 3 replies
    • 2024 Rocket Mortgage Classic - Discussion and Links to Photos
      Please put and questions or comments here
       
       
      General Albums
       
      2024 Rocket Mortgage Classic - Monday #1
      2024 Rocket Mortgage Classic - Monday #2
      2024 Rocket Mortgage Classic - Monday #3
       
       
       
       
       
      WITB Albums
       
      Nate Lashley - WITB - 2024 Rocket Mortgage Classic
      Hayden Springer - WITB - 2024 Rocket Mortgage Classic
      Jackson Koivun - WITB - 2024 Rocket Mortgage Classic
      Callum Tarren - WITB - 2024 Rocket Mortgage Classic
      Luke Clanton - WITB - 2024 Rocket Mortgage Classic
       
       
       
       
      Pullout Albums
       
      Jason Dufner's custom 3-D printed Cobra putter - 2024 Rocket Mortgage Classic
       
       
       
       
       
       
        • Thanks
        • Like
      • 11 replies
    • Tiger Woods - WITB - 2024 US Open
      Tiger Woods - WITB - 2024 US Open
        • Like
      • 52 replies
    • 2024 US Open - Discussion and Links to Photos
      Please put any questions or comments here
       
       
       
       
      General Albums
       
      2024 US Open - Monday #1
       
       
       
       
      WITB Albums
       
      Tiger Woods - WITB - 2024 US Open
      Edoardo Molinari - WITB - 2024 US Open
      Logan McAllister - WITB - 2024 US Open
      Bryan Kim - WITB - 2024 US Open
      Richard Mansell - WITB - 2024 US Open
      Jackson Buchanan - WITB - 2024 US Open
      Carter Jenkins - WITB - 2024 US Open
      Parker Bell - WITB - 2024 US Open
      Omar Morales - WITB - 2024 US Open
      Neil Shipley - WITB - 2024 US Open
      Casey Jarvis - WITB - 2024 US Open
      Carson Schaake - WITB - 2024 US Open
       
       
       
       
      Pullout Albums
       

      Tiger Woods on the range at Pinehurst on Monday – 2024 U.S. Open
      Newton Motion shaft - 2024 US Open
      Cameron putter covers - 2024 US Open
      New UST Mamiya Linq shaft - 2024 US Open

       

       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
      • 5 replies
    • Titleist GT drivers - 2024 the Memorial Tournament
      Early in hand photos of the new GT2 models t the truck.  As soon as they show up on the range in player's bags we'll get some better from the top photos and hopefully some comparison photos against the last model.
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
        • Thanks
        • Like
      • 374 replies

×
×
  • Create New...