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Should i play 3w or 5w


Cole Fleming

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Ideally you want 4 degrees of loft between your approach fairway wood and your distance fairway wood. If you have a 21 degree 7 wood, then go with a 17 degree distance wood. 

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On 3/21/2024 at 7:43 PM, mantan said:

I'm of the mind the overwhelming majority of people can't hit a 3-wood off the deck well enough to put it in the bag. It's either very skilled golfers or seniors/low swing speed players who rely on FW woods on approaches more than longer players.  Way back in the day before oversized driver, a 3W was a safe 'tee' club. A 460cc driver closed that gap a lot.  So then it comes down to what you can consistently hit from the deck.  

 

If the OP's swing speed is accurate, he can poke a 5-wood out there pretty good. And I'd bet hits it MUCH better off the deck.

 

 

I went with a 16.5 3WHL 260 carry getting it done

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Fairway:        Callaway AI Smoke 3HL 16.5° Project X Denali Black 70g 6.0

Fairway:        Callaway AI Smoke 7W 21° Project X Denali Black 70g 6.0

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23 hours ago, 14mh said:

I am surprised to see that you use such light shafts and in stiff flex in the two fwys with that swing speed. I would think dispersion and efficiency would increase with more weight and x-stiff in those same shafts. 

I was never fit for those clubs its my first year in golf but after this post i gathered the info and didnt waste tons of time swinging so many thing AI smoke 3HL and 7W are on the way

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In my experience, trying to reach the green in two on par 5s using a 3W is very difficult. Even if I end up hitting it well, keeping the ball on the green—or close to it—is pretty challenging. For me, the 3W shines the most off the tee, particularly on narrow but long fairways (low handicap holes) where my driver's wider dispersion can be a liability.
 

All eagles I've made so far came from shorter par 5s, where I used a 7W or long irons to approach the green in two. I think a 5W could be more effective for these approach shots than a 3W, offering a better balance of control and distance. So my recommendation is:


1. Opt for a 3W (or even a mini-driver) if you find it to be a more reliable and straighter option off the tee compared to your drive.
2. If you're already comfortable with your driver and are looking for a club primarily to enhance your approach game, then a 5W might be better.

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On 3/25/2024 at 10:47 AM, dmeeksDC said:

Pretty simple to solve with a 16 or 16.5 degree fairway wood. Not enough difference between a 5 wood and 7 wood. 

I’d agree but….. I have troubles with driver either great(250-260)  or terrible (off the scale!) Rbz 14.5 three wood but solely  off the tee (240 ish) as find deep face hard to hit off turf.
I have G400 5 wood (effectively a 4 wood) which actually gaps quite well at 17.5 and can hit iff tee or turf (220-230). 
 

Then finally a G25 7 wood (195-210). 
 

I plan to revolve Driver, 3 wood and 5 wood depending on course and weather conditions. 
 

I regularly play a course which is very short but tight off the tee and actually rarely play driver and few long fairway wood shots so 3 wood and 7 wood, especially in dry conditions with potentially Somme DI/crossover. 


Another course is very long and wide open so good chance will be Driver 5w and 7w.

 

links likely to be D, 3w and DI . Though have said before have considered going straight D to 7w with long iron alternatives as see the 7w as a powerful fairway finder with wind behind. Next club from 7w will usually be 23 degree 4 hybrid but can change out to 24 Crossover. Rarely use set 4 and 5i now with a 26 degree 5 h pretty much permanently in bag, 

 

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7 hours ago, tomathist said:

In my experience, trying to reach the green in two on par 5s using a 3W is very difficult. Even if I end up hitting it well, keeping the ball on the green—or close to it—is pretty challenging. For me, the 3W shines the most off the tee, particularly on narrow but long fairways (low handicap holes) where my driver's wider dispersion can be a liability.
 

All eagles I've made so far came from shorter par 5s, where I used a 7W or long irons to approach the green in two. I think a 5W could be more effective for these approach shots than a 3W, offering a better balance of control and distance. So my recommendation is:


1. Opt for a 3W (or even a mini-driver) if you find it to be a more reliable and straighter option off the tee compared to your drive.
2. If you're already comfortable with your driver and are looking for a club primarily to enhance your approach game, then a 5W might be better.

Great comment 

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On 3/20/2024 at 12:34 PM, Cole Fleming said:

Should i play 3w or 5w

 

Personally, I think you should ignore the 3w or 5w label applied to the club.  There is some variation among manufacturers, and possibly even product lines within a given company, on what is labeled a 3w or 5w.  My take is it's more important to look at the loft of the clubs in question.  Then add the general performance characteristics and how they might apply to your game (low flight players should maybe look away from low flight producing clubs, etc).

 

Random morning thought...

 

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18 hours ago, tomathist said:

In my experience, trying to reach the green in two on par 5s using a 3W is very difficult. Even if I end up hitting it well, keeping the ball on the green—or close to it—is pretty challenging. For me, the 3W shines the most off the tee, particularly on narrow but long fairways (low handicap holes) where my driver's wider dispersion can be a liability.
 

All eagles I've made so far came from shorter par 5s, where I used a 7W or long irons to approach the green in two. I think a 5W could be more effective for these approach shots than a 3W, offering a better balance of control and distance. So my recommendation is:


1. Opt for a 3W (or even a mini-driver) if you find it to be a more reliable and straighter option off the tee compared to your drive.
2. If you're already comfortable with your driver and are looking for a club primarily to enhance your approach game, then a 5W might be better.

I guess this is why most pga, lpga and others carry both...cause they answered yes, to both questions.😁

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It’s all gonna come down to numbers at the end of the day. Which clubs gonna give you the right data that you need to put it in the bag? I’d say go test both on a monitor and then go from there. If you hit 3 wood 260 then what are your thoughts and a driving iron? Allows you to hit it lower through the wind, but also launch it high into par 5’s

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On 3/20/2024 at 2:09 PM, animalgolfs said:

Call me old or old school - you need to be playing 7200yds with that swing speed. If you can carry a 3wd 260yds - and find you don't need unless you move back - then you need to move back. 

 

Just my opinion

 

You need to play the tees that you enjoy playing.

 

Just my opinion. 

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My challenge is less distance and more shot shape.  Also have high SS and I play only a cut with driver and don't hit it particularly high (mid height).  My 3w (15d opened up 2d) almost went as far as driver but it was a high slight draw for me.  I recently started swapping out with a 16.5d 4w opened up so it took some distance off but still has that ball flight (high draw) I need.

 

I do like the idea of a 7w (currently swap a 3i and 2i depending on course/conditions) so having that 4w creates a good ydg progression for me.

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I’ve been all in on the Driver - 5 wood set up for about 3 years now. I love it and recommend the set up to golfers of any skill level. More consistent off the deck and great as a fairway finder off the tee. 

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Just did a full bag fitting, and I ended up with driver, 3-wood and 22 degree hybrid.  Just worked well in gapping with my longest iron. 

 

5-wood too close to 3-wood, and 7-wood too close to hybrid.  Meant I could pack an extra wedge, which always makes me happy!

 

Point is, the fitter made recommendations, and I trusted him.

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12 hours ago, Peninsulagolfer said:

Just did a full bag fitting, and I ended up with driver, 3-wood and 22 degree hybrid.  Just worked well in gapping with my longest iron. 

 

5-wood too close to 3-wood, and 7-wood too close to hybrid.  Meant I could pack an extra wedge, which always makes me happy!

 

Point is, the fitter made recommendations, and I trusted him.

 

Out of curiosity, what was the distance gap between the 5-wood and 22 degree hybrid?

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14 hours ago, pu_golf88 said:

 

Out of curiosity, what was the distance gap between the 5-wood and 22 degree hybrid?

In metres, the 3w was around 200, 190 for 5w, 180 for 7w and 175 for 4h. But by playing the hybrid back in my stance and de-lofting it a bit I was squeezing an extra 5-7 metres of carry.

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On 3/20/2024 at 12:34 PM, Cole Fleming said:

I've searched the forum and couldn't find anything new on this. Could be me being new and using it wrong. I was wondering thoughts on people play 3 vs 5wood i have a high SS 118 with driver 280s + carry. I really never use my 3wood now as my course doesn't really have the need unless i move back tees. I usually carry it about 260+. I'm ultimately looking for something easier to hit and maybe start trying to use it off the tee some to keep me out of trouble. I also play a 7w love it so dont want them to be to close. Ive never even considered or looked at a 5w i have a fitting today so im sure i could test them but wanted somewhat of an idea going into it to tell the fitter so im not swinging so many clubs.

I am in your same swing speed range and I think that once you hit a 5w that you will most likely get one as they are great clubs. I find use for both 3w and 5w depending on my set configuration. By that I mean that when I carry my mini driver at the top end I carry 3w, which still gives me plenty of gas to go at par 5's, and when I carry driver at the top end I carry 5w / 2 hybrid because it is rare that a par 5 requires a driver 3w approach.  Even with all that being said I have never hit a 4 wood before, which might eliminate the 3w and the 5w!  I used to really struggle with fairway woods but after a ton of work I now love them and view them as a weapon in my bag.  Best of luck in your search. 

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Like a few other have said...Ditched the 3 wood several years ago. When testing, the 3 wood was no further than my 5 wood. 5 wood was easier to hit center of club face, better dispersion & launched easier. 3 wood from fairway was too destructive to my scores.

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Neither,

 

I like my 2 Hybrid from the tee and from the deck. It's a great club for both control and distance. 

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I would say it depends on what you think you need the club/s for.

 

I have a SS around 100-104mph.

Current setup is TSR2 9 degree, TSi3 3W lofted up to 16.5 degree Cobra RadSpeed 5W lofted up to 20 degree.

 

The gaps work well for me according to my Arccos stats from last season.  Hit driver 112 times, 3W 38 times and 5W 50 times.  

Distance averages are:

D 268 (Smart Range 265-280)

3W 250 (246-258)

5W 220 (215-234)

 

I'm not good off the tee with finding fairways but off the deck I keep the ball in play.  

Fairway stats:

Dr 32%

3W 26%

5W 40%

 

I use the 3W on par 5 second shots to advance it.  I have hit the 5 wood a few times if it's a shorter par 5 and I hit a good drive and I am trying to get on in 2. 

Off the tee, the 3W runs a lot and is close in distance to my average drive.  But the accuracy is actually worse and a great drive is better than a great 3W, so it's seldom a tee option for me.  If it's a short hole, I opt for the 5 wood.  

 

I had a 245 yard par 3 hole last year and hit the 3 wood for my first hole in one...so I'm biased and say you need a 3 wood 🙂

 

At your SS, you don't need the 3 wood OP.  You will get plenty of distance with a 5 wood.  And you can tweak the loft.  My Cobra is at 18.5 and can go 1.5 up or down.

 

I think you would benefit from the 5W. Maybe lofting it down to a 4W loft, make sure your 7W is at the fitting to dial in your distance gapping.

 

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I do hate when people start talking about "gapping" in this area. They aren't irons.

 

Whether it's a 3, 4, 5, 6, or 7 wood, your second club behind driver should be the one that you will get the most consistent advancement of the ball where you are not regularly targeting a green. Use it anywhere, but if you can't hit it well off the deck, it's not for you.

 

Your third club, whether it's a 7w, 3h, 2i, whatever… is typically the longest club you're willing to go for a green, or serves a purpose. For example, I carry a hybrid because I want more than a 200m full shot. I want a small head for versatility around the greens and from under parkland trees (there's a lot here). A 7-wood would not be helpful for that here. A 2-iron might be, but I don't hit them well enough anywhere but a tee box, so my 2i stays in my garage.

 

Your fourth club usually starts your iron sequence, or is one more hybrid.

 

I say all of this to debunk the idea that there's some sort of ideal yardage gap from the second club to the third. There's not. It might happen, but it's far more important that you can hit the damned thing. Topped 3-woods 10% vs topped 5-wood 2% of the time, 5 wood will get you more distance. If you want a 3-wood for the tee block 90% of the time, go for it, but treat it like driver #2 and get another club you can hit off the ground.

 

If you make the decision on what club to have in the second slot based on a yardage gap, you're doing it wrong.

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I just recently did a bake off with a SIM TI 3 and tsi3 4 wood. The Titleist won out. Not much of a difference in distance but a big difference in dispersion. Hit ten shots with each and the Titleist had 7 in the fairway and 3 misses. The misses one 40 yards off center the other 2 20, 27. All the misses were push right.  The TM was way more erratic with 4 in the fw the rest kind of sprayed mostly hooks. 

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It took me a year and a half to finalize the top end of my bag.  I carry my driver 220-230.  I went with the Maltby KE4 TC 4W at 16* which is easy to hit off the deck and I get 190-205.  I get up to 205-215 in carry off tee.  I then drop to the 18* Cleveland Hywood (absolutely love this club) I carry 180-195 off the deck.  Next up is the Maltby 21* HyWay (similar concept to the Hywood) and finally a 15 year old Cleveland DST 5i hybrid w/Diamana R flex shaft that I'm afraid to replace.  I bought it a year ago for $39 to try and experiment to eliminate my 5 iron which I wasn't able to consistently hit any more and was getting same distance as my 6i.  That club has become my most used club in the bag on 6300-6500 yard courses where I'm having to hit 165-175 yard approaches or par 3's.   

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On 3/20/2024 at 2:14 PM, Cole Fleming said:

Your probably right but and i do play that sometimes but for my first full year golfinf i prefer to make it a little easier on myself and enjoy the playing then struggling my was there. also my course is very hard 146 slope rating from the back so prefer to not get punished. 

First off, there's absolutely nothing wrong with prioritizing having a good time out on the course. All things being equal you can adjust your playing tees to driver length, but if you're on a true tournament course (which you probably are if you have a really long tee length option with 146 slope), the playability of the course likely becomes more difficult for someone with your length. For example, you'll likely find that your landing zones from the back tees pinch in, fairway bunkers come more into play, water hazards on 2nd shots become more problematic, etc. On well designed courses there is more to it than just scoring better because you have a shorter iron/wedge in your hand on the approach shot (although that does obviously help). My personal suggestion to most big hitters (I play with a lot of former athletes who can bomb it but are 12-18 handicaps) is that once you get down to the mid-high single digits or so and feel like you're now scoring from overpowering the course a bit from a certain tee box it's time to consider moving back. But my personal opinion is that there is an overall skill requisite needed to play the tips as well, rather than just pure length.

 

 

On the 3w vs 5w debate, I also carry a 7 wood that I absolutely love and base the top end of my bag around. What I personally do is take a 5 wood and loft it down to a 4 wood. I think this is a better suited approach if you plan to hit it off the deck, which I do on three of the four Par 5's on my home course. If you want to use it as a tee club, a 3 wood or 3HL (16.5*) is probably going to give you better results all things being equal. I think it's best to define the purpose you want a specific spot in the bag to fill in your game and then go from there on deciding which club is best designed to fit that role.

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After struggling with inconsistent play from my 3 wood (srixon zx-it went a mile, just not in correct direction 50%), I decided to admit I needed more loft for this club. I built a new maltby ist 17* 5 wood on a 65 gm shaft at 43’’. Much more consistent 

I’m now looking at the 7w. 

 

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