No new acquistions...?

[bcstones]

Not really an acquisition...just a couple of 2 irons I came across when looking for my set of Louise Suggs CF4000 irons....

 

The JC Higgins Johnny Bulla was interesting, since it's a JCHiggins it gotta be prior to 1960 (when Sears changed to Ted Williams)...the back looks familiar but can't actually place, the shaft is a TrueTember Meteor, also has nice leather grip w/that alinement ridge down the back.
I'm figuring the the Fernquest&Johnson Tony Lima is pre 1966, cuz that was the year he died in plane crash...Ferquest&Johnson dropped his name from the clubs after that, in memoriam, I guess.

[MrFlipper]

4 hours ago, bcstones said:

Not really an acquisition...just a couple of 2 irons I came across when looking for my set of Louise Suggs CF4000 irons....

 

The JC Higgins Johnny Bulla was interesting, since it's a JCHiggins it gotta be prior to 1960 (when Sears changed to Ted Williams)...the back looks familiar but can't actually place, the shaft is a TrueTember Meteor, also has nice leather grip w/that alinement ridge down the back.
I'm figuring the the Fernquest&Johnson Tony Lima is pre 1966, cuz that was the year he died in plane crash...Ferquest&Johnson dropped his name from the clubs after that, in memoriam, I guess.

I have a set of those exact Lema's, great clubs. Short but very heavy. Take a look at the first two digits on the number on the ferrule. You should expect to see 66, the year built. He died in July that year, so lots of clubs built with his name on them, before they quit marketing his signature clubs.

[bcstones]

1 hour ago, MrFlipper said:

I have a set of those exact Lema's, great clubs. Short but very heavy. Take a look at the first two digits on the number on the ferrule. You should expect to see 66, the year built. He died in July that year, so lots of clubs built with his name on them, before they quit marketing his signature clubs.

it had the “66xxx”…so 1966, do you know what the other numbers might represent?

[MrFlipper]

1 hour ago, bcstones said:

it had the “66xxx”…so 1966, do you know what the other numbers might represent?

No concrete idea. My set number is 6603233. Swingweight doesn't fit any of those numbers. Like yours, mine have the 2 flex shaft, whether that corresponds to the third from last number is unknown to me. 

 

Not many people around, or still alive, that know much about F&J.

[bcstones]

31 minutes ago, MrFlipper said:

No concrete idea. My set number is 6603233. Swingweight doesn't fit any of those numbers. Like yours, mine have the 2 flex shaft, whether that corresponds to the third from last number is unknown to me. 

 

Not many people around, or still alive, that know much about F&J.

the # on mine is 660481…hmmm, wonder if that means early 1966?

 

Maltby’s book has a listing for F&J for a few years

 

I did a google search for F&J- one of the finds was that Arnold Palmer Golf wanted to own a golf manufacturing company in the late ‘60s…made a deal with the owners of the F&J & then had to go to court over a breach of contract, eventually in the ‘70s Palmer Golf won

Edited July 7, 2022 by bcstones
brain cells 🤪

[dcopp7]

8 hours ago, bcstones said:

just a question...why soak in Coke?

Removes rust gently

[bcstones]

1 hour ago, dcopp7 said:

Removes rust gently

better than just plain water?...after all, rust is just the reaction between water & iron. I've wondered about the vinegar & water solution to remove rust also....the reason I ask is that vinegar is an acid & Coke contains phosphoric acid, so I'm wondering why an acid, even a weak acid or diluted strong acid would disolve rust better than just plain water (water would losen the rust & make it easier to remove)?

Edited July 8, 2022 by bcstones

[cold_war_era_golfer]

I think the 1i is a 1953. Not sure about the others.  2-9 have matching serial numbers.  10 and PW do not but the match.  

The Spalding 43 woods came with the irons and have the same grips so I’m guessing similar year.  Heads have been refinished.  A little rust on the wood shafts hopefully will come out.

 

Shafts are green label true temper rocket with a star.  Any idea on flex?
 

Edited July 8, 2022 by cold_war_era_golfer

[FlangeFan]

just awesome cold_war! Suffice it to say that you are definitely knee-deep in vintage (and so am I) -- beauties!

🙃

[deejaid]

On 7/3/2022 at 2:29 AM, BIG STU said:

Yeah he does have a talent for that or has a golden horseshoe up his you know what

I would say it’s boredom.  I don’t watch much tv so late at night I’m searching eBay, Craigslist, or used club retailers, and usually will find something interesting…..

 

Like these.

 

2nd Swing had them listed as stainless ISI’s when I could tell right away they were nickel.  Also had them marked as a 7 in the condition scale but looked much better than that in the pictures.  They were already marked down and then 2nd Swing had an additional 15% off sale going over the 4th of July weekend.

 

Full 11-club matching #’s set of Ping ISI Nickel, 2-LW.

 

 

Edited July 9, 2022 by deejaid

[FlangeFan]

nice DJ, I played the BeCu ISI's in college (3-PW), some of my favs, and I remember how expensive the nickel ISI's were too... those look terrific! Do they have the Ping textured wraps? I liked those too...

[deejaid]

52 minutes ago, FlangeFan said:

nice DJ, I played the BeCu ISI's in college (3-PW), some of my favs, and I remember how expensive the nickel ISI's were too... those look terrific! Do they have the Ping textured wraps? I liked those too...

Yup, original Ping textured wraps.

 

The Becu’s are awesome too, I previously had a set as well as a couple sets of the steels that I had refinished by Ping.  This is my first set of nickels though.  
 

 

[Fellaheen51]

12 hours ago, deejaid said:

I would say it’s boredom.  I don’t watch much tv so late at night I’m searching eBay, Craigslist, or used club retailers, and usually will find something interesting…..

 

Like these.

 

2nd Swing had them listed as stainless ISI’s when I could tell right away they were nickel.  Also had them marked as a 7 in the condition scale but looked much better than that in the pictures.  They were already marked down and then 2nd Swing had an additional 15% off sale going over the 4th of July weekend.

 

Full 11-club matching #’s set of Ping ISI Nickel, 2-LW.

 

 

 

Splendid set of Ni ISI's.   Somewhat rare to find matching numbers through the L wedge.  Your story is very similar to how I found mine.  Don't watch TV, browse around the net looking for implements.  Saw a listing for them on the Bay.  Poor descriptive (listed as steel), but with good pictures.  Best of all, there was only one hour left in the auction and just one bid.  Sniped well below FMV in the last 10 seconds.  Only 3 - W, but matching numbers and in VGUC.  Subsequently added the S2 wedge shortly thereafter in much the same way.  All were my preferable green dots.  Bending Be is risky business.  

 

IIRC, Be ISI's sold for $1200 MSRP.  Which was significant coin when they came out (~1996).   Contend that the ISI's, BeNI's in particular, are unique in the historical catalog of Ping irons.  Integrated Strategic Innovation.   Remain a very playable head design 25 years further on.  

 

Play Your Best.  

 

 

Edited July 9, 2022 by Fellaheen51

[Brian1862]

21 hours ago, cold_war_era_golfer said:

I think the 1i is a 1953. Not sure about the others.  2-9 have matching serial numbers.  10 and PW do not but the match.  

The Spalding 43 woods came with the irons and have the same grips so I’m guessing similar year.  Heads have been refinished.  A little rust on the wood shafts hopefully will come out.

 

Shafts are green label true temper rocket with a star.  Any idea on flex?
 

Wow! Such a beautiful set.

 

From my limited research I'd say the 1i is indeed a 1953, judging from the back design and the ferrule color. I gather that is a very rare club! The 2-9i are almost certainly 1954s. As are the wedges - which were apparently sold as add-ons, not in synchro-dyned sets. Is your 10i stamped "tournament model" on the back?  My 1955 irons are similar (though I haven't found a #1).

 

I have recently acquired Model 84 woods 1-4, said to be 1956s, with the black and white inserts, so would guess your model 43s are slightly earlier, possibly contemporary with the '54 irons.

 

In cases like this I think it's a shame we can only carry 14 clubs  🙂  

 

 

Edited July 9, 2022 by Brian1862
typo

[cold_war_era_golfer]

1 hour ago, Brian1862 said:

Wow! Such a beautiful set.

 

From my limited research I'd say the 1i is indeed a 1953, judging from the back design and the ferrule color. I gather that is a very rare club! The 2-9i are almost certainly 1954s. As are the wedges - which were apparently sold as add-ons, not in synchro-dyned sets. Is your 10i stamped "tournament model" on the back?  My 1955 irons are similar (though I haven't found a #1).

 

I have recently acquired Model 84 woods 1-4, said to be 1956s, with the black and white inserts, so would guess your model 43s are slightly earlier, possibly contemporary with the '54 irons.

 

In cases like this I think it's a shame we can only carry 14 clubs  🙂  

 

 

Good eye!  The pitching wedge and 10i are both stamped "tournament model."  

I'm afraid they have still shafts which is something I try to avoid but they feel really nice in hand.  

[deejaid]

15 hours ago, Fellaheen51 said:

 

Splendid set of Ni ISI's.   Somewhat rare to find matching numbers through the L wedge.  Your story is very similar to how I found mine.  Don't watch TV, browse around the net looking for implements.  Saw a listing for them on the Bay.  Poor descriptive (listed as steel), but with good pictures.  Best of all, there was only one hour left in the auction and just one bid.  Sniped well below FMV in the last 10 seconds.  Only 3 - W, but matching numbers and in VGUC.  Subsequently added the S2 wedge shortly thereafter in much the same way.  All were my preferable green dots.  Bending Be is risky business.  

 

IIRC, Be ISI's sold for $1200 MSRP.  Which was significant coin when they came out (~1996).   Contend that the ISI's, BeNI's in particular, are unique in the historical catalog of Ping irons.  Integrated Strategic Innovation.   Remain a very playable head design 25 years further on.  

 

Play Your Best.  

 

 

I could really use maroon dot and I thought the nickel might be easier to bend but these aren’t moving more than half a degree.  Might need to find some actual maroon dots.

[BIG STU]

On 7/8/2022 at 3:59 PM, cold_war_era_golfer said:

I think the 1i is a 1953. Not sure about the others.  2-9 have matching serial numbers.  10 and PW do not but the match.  

The Spalding 43 woods came with the irons and have the same grips so I’m guessing similar year.  Heads have been refinished.  A little rust on the wood shafts hopefully will come out.

 

Shafts are green label true temper rocket with a star.  Any idea on flex?
 

The green labels of that era check out to be between Regular and Stiff with a soft tip. I have those shafts in a set of Hogan Precisions. That is the way mine checked out for me on my home made deflection board. And my old Hogans have been played a lot in past years I see due to the face wear. On mine it may be age and metal fatigue too. Reminds me that is another set I need to get back out and play some. 

[Fellaheen51]

11 hours ago, deejaid said:

I could really use maroon dot and I thought the nickel might be easier to bend but these aren’t moving more than half a degree.  Might need to find some actual maroon dots.

 

I'm not a hobbyist bender, so have zero experience.  The risky business part of bending BeCu/Ni irons is cracking a hosel.  Some have made comments that they can be bent up to 2*.  IDK.   But my assessment is it's not worth chancing hosel breakage, on an irreplaceable matching number head.  Snap one, and you immediately devalue your set.  NTM, having to procure a replacement.  

 

Have you hit some balls, observed any directional tendencies?  My MO is see how they fly, before contemplating lie adjustments.  Assuming I'm already in the neighborhood of appropriateness.  if I hit balls reasonable straight, leave well enough alone.  As long as I'm +/- a degree or so, I'm good.  My swing will vary more than that with any given one.  Although some may have differing sensitivity to lie exactitude.  

 

Believe Ping used 1* progression though the color codes at the time of ISI's.  Maroon dot (5*) is very upright.  Which would suggest that you also play longer than "standard" lengths.  What's the length of your bennie set?  Adding length would move the effective lie upright.  All else be equal.  The ratio: .5" △ = 1* △.  The Ping color code chart is based on this relationship.  You're at 3* up now (white), adding .5" would bump it to 4* (silver).  Off the static color chart, I'm at white/silver plus .5" (6'2", 38.5" WTF).  But prefer to go longer and flatter (green +1").  Sorta arriving at the same effective lie point via a different path. 

 

This length, lie, and swing weight business entails a certain alchemy when one is outside the box.  FWIW.

 

 

 

[NRJyzr]

13 hours ago, deejaid said:

I could really use maroon dot and I thought the nickel might be easier to bend but these aren’t moving more than half a degree.  Might need to find some actual maroon dots.

 

50 minutes ago, Fellaheen51 said:

 

I'm not a hobbyist bender, so have zero experience.  The risky business part of bending BeCu/Ni irons is cracking a hosel.  Some have made comments that they can be bent up to 2*.  IDK.   But my assessment is it's not worth chancing hosel breakage, on an irreplaceable matching number head.  Snap one, and you immediately devalue your set.  NTM, having to procure a replacement.  

 

Have you hit some balls, observed any directional tendencies?  My MO is see how they fly, before contemplating lie adjustments.  Assuming I'm already in the neighborhood of appropriateness.  if I hit balls reasonable straight, leave well enough alone.  As long as I'm +/- a degree or so, I'm good.  My swing will vary more than that with any given one.  Although some may have differing sensitivity to lie exactitude.  

 

Believe Ping used 1* progression though the color codes at the time of ISI's.  Maroon dot (5*) is very upright.  Which would suggest that you also play longer than "standard" lengths.  What's the length of your bennie set?  Adding length would move the effective lie upright.  All else be equal.  The ratio: .5" △ = 1* △.  The Ping color code chart is based on this relationship.  You're at 3* up now (white), adding .5" would bump it to 4* (silver).  Off the static color chart, I'm at white/silver plus .5" (6'2", 38.5" WTF).  But prefer to go longer and flatter (green +1").  Sorta arriving at the same effective lie point via a different path. 

 

This length, lie, and swing weight business entails a certain alchemy when one is outside the box.  FWIW.

 

 

 

 

Yes, Ping used 1* increments in their color codes in the ISI days.  One thing that's sometimes (often?) misunderstood, is that the color codes in those days didn't represent a distinct change in the lie angle.  It was combined with the length change.  Essentially, it represented an effective lie angle difference from standard.

 

If you increased or decreased the length of the build, Ping would change the lie angle by 0.75* per half inch length change.  If you went +1", your lies would be 1.5* flatter than a standard length build at the same color code.  If you went shorter, your lies would be more upright than that same color code at standard length.

 

This is why it was always important to specify color code along with any length change from standard, when talking about Ping sets.

 

So...  if you are in +1" Maroon dot territory, you're really only looking at 3.5* upright.  An extended standard length white dot set could get the job done.

 

Ping changed this in the last few years, now the color codes represent an absolute lie angle, regardless of length.  Don't remember exactly which sets this started with, if one is keeping score, but I think the i200 and iBlade were done with the old length/lie system.  Emphasis on "I think."  😉

 

I have a set of Green dot ISI-S, with S2 and LW.  They were +1/2", but unfortunately were also DGX.  Not in my zip code any longer.  Toying with trying to pull the DGX and reshaft, but have held off.  I'm actually playing fairly decently with my assorted blades, don't want to disrupt that train.  LOL

 

[FlangeFan]

NRJyzr, that was an excellent, concise explanation regarding how Ping fits (or at least used to fit) using their color codes; it totally jives with what a friend of mine (who went to work for Ping after his mini-tour pro career ended) had to say back in 2000.

[deejaid]

2 hours ago, Fellaheen51 said:

 

I'm not a hobbyist bender, so have zero experience.  The risky business part of bending BeCu/Ni irons is cracking a hosel.  Some have made comments that they can be bent up to 2*.  IDK.   But my assessment is it's not worth chancing hosel breakage, on an irreplaceable matching number head.  Snap one, and you immediately devalue your set.  NTM, having to procure a replacement.  

 

Have you hit some balls, observed any directional tendencies?  My MO is see how they fly, before contemplating lie adjustments.  Assuming I'm already in the neighborhood of appropriateness.  if I hit balls reasonable straight, leave well enough alone.  As long as I'm +/- a degree or so, I'm good.  My swing will vary more than that with any given one.  Although some may have differing sensitivity to lie exactitude.  

 

Believe Ping used 1* progression though the color codes at the time of ISI's.  Maroon dot (5*) is very upright.  Which would suggest that you also play longer than "standard" lengths.  What's the length of your bennie set?  Adding length would move the effective lie upright.  All else be equal.  The ratio: .5" △ = 1* △.  The Ping color code chart is based on this relationship.  You're at 3* up now (white), adding .5" would bump it to 4* (silver).  Off the static color chart, I'm at white/silver plus .5" (6'2", 38.5" WTF).  But prefer to go longer and flatter (green +1").  Sorta arriving at the same effective lie point via a different path. 

 

This length, lie, and swing weight business entails a certain alchemy when one is outside the box.  FWIW.

 

 

 

 

1 hour ago, NRJyzr said:

 

 

Yes, Ping used 1* increments in their color codes in the ISI days.  One thing that's sometimes (often?) misunderstood, is that the color codes in those days didn't represent a distinct change in the lie angle.  It was combined with the length change.  Essentially, it represented an effective lie angle difference from standard.

 

If you increased or decreased the length of the build, Ping would change the lie angle by 0.75* per half inch length change.  If you went +1", your lies would be 1.5* flatter than a standard length build at the same color code.  If you went shorter, your lies would be more upright than that same color code at standard length.

 

This is why it was always important to specify color code along with any length change from standard, when talking about Ping sets.

 

So...  if you are in +1" Maroon dot territory, you're really only looking at 3.5* upright.  An extended standard length white dot set could get the job done.

 

Ping changed this in the last few years, now the color codes represent an absolute lie angle, regardless of length.  Don't remember exactly which sets this started with, if one is keeping score, but I think the i200 and iBlade were done with the old length/lie system.  Emphasis on "I think."  😉

 

I have a set of Green dot ISI-S, with S2 and LW.  They were +1/2", but unfortunately were also DGX.  Not in my zip code any longer.  Toying with trying to pull the DGX and reshaft, but have held off.  I'm actually playing fairly decently with my assorted blades, don't want to disrupt that train.  LOL

 

Great info guys, much appreciated!

 

So yes, I am 6’2” with a 39” wrist to floor.   I have my own loft and lie machine so I bend all my forged irons myself.  My Orlimar’s and Top Flite’s that I play most often are both much more upright than these white dot’s.  I also play my irons with 3/8” increments, starting at a 38.5” 5-iron, which makes my wedges an 1” over standard length.

 

The white dot Beni’s are +1/2” over standard length with original JZ stiff shafts.   Lot of low and right shots and the toe is digging, definitely too flat for me.

I recently typed my info in an online static fitting calculator and it said I needed 5* upright and 1/2” over length (Hireko Golf Website).   I thought it was ridiculous but now putting my current irons next to the white dot Beni’s, I think 5* up is right where I need to be.

[bcstones]

3 hours ago, Fellaheen51 said:

 

I'm not a hobbyist bender, so have zero experience.  The risky business part of bending BeCu/Ni irons is cracking a hosel.  Some have made comments that they can be bent up to 2*.  IDK.   But my assessment is it's not worth chancing hosel breakage, on an irreplaceable matching number head.  Snap one, and you immediately devalue your set.  NTM, having to procure a replacement.  

 

Have you hit some balls, observed any directional tendencies?  My MO is see how they fly, before contemplating lie adjustments.  Assuming I'm already in the neighborhood of appropriateness.  if I hit balls reasonable straight, leave well enough alone.  As long as I'm +/- a degree or so, I'm good.  My swing will vary more than that with any given one.  Although some may have differing sensitivity to lie exactitude.  

 

Believe Ping used 1* progression though the color codes at the time of ISI's.  Maroon dot (5*) is very upright.  Which would suggest that you also play longer than "standard" lengths.  What's the length of your bennie set?  Adding length would move the effective lie upright.  All else be equal.  The ratio: .5" △ = 1* △.  The Ping color code chart is based on this relationship.  You're at 3* up now (white), adding .5" would bump it to 4* (silver).  Off the static color chart, I'm at white/silver plus .5" (6'2", 38.5" WTF).  But prefer to go longer and flatter (green +1").  Sorta arriving at the same effective lie point via a different path. 

 

This length, lie, and swing weight business entails a certain alchemy when one is outside the box.  FWIW.

 

 

 

just a bit confused here, didn't Ping change it's coloring scheme sometime in the 90s, maybe even 80s? I thought that the most upright was Black & the most laid back was Red/Maroon...or I'm just screwy....
I kinda sorta remember my elder golf Pro saying it was very difficult to change any loft or lie on a Ping cuz of the process they put their irons thru, made them very strong, so much so that to change you hazzard a fracture, far better to return to Ping & ask them to do it (and then paying the cost too)

[deejaid]

2 minutes ago, bcstones said:

just a bit confused here, didn't Ping change it's coloring scheme sometime in the 90s, maybe even 80s? I thought that the most upright was Black & the most laid back was Red/Maroon...or I'm just screwy....
I kinda sorta remember my elder golf Pro saying it was very difficult to change any loft or lie on a Ping cuz of the process they put their irons thru, made them very strong, so much so that to change you hazzard a fracture, far better to return to Ping & ask them to do it (and then paying the cost too)

Black has always been the Ping “standard” lie angle.  Red is a bit flatter than standard, but maroon is the most upright, 5*.

[deejaid]

Well, I just bought a set of maroon dot Ping ISI nickels off eBay so I’ll just have to move the white one to another vintage Ping fan. 😁

[bcstones]

again not a "recent" acquisition, but from a while back...I tried to find any info on these, only found a listing in that bay thing a few years ago that placed them ~1967ish...was also wondering if these were Women's clubs, the lettering seems to be blue (tho the grips are not, but a very nice dark almost black leather w/goldish braid). Also, the bands tho they don't show are MacGregor Tru-Action B.

I'd thought that green or blue indicated a Lady's set....

Edited July 10, 2022 by bcstones

[bcstones]

23 minutes ago, deejaid said:

Black has always been the Ping “standard” lie angle.  Red is a bit flatter than standard, but maroon is the most upright, 5*.

I guess my central question was when did Ping change their color system? I'm kinda sorta leaning that it was in the '90s they changed.
Just checked a source, seems the Ping Karsten's were produced in the '70s and the Ping Eye's in the '80s...perhaps the ISi's are from later, 90s? & that's why it sticks in my mind that with those earlier

Pings, the black was most upright...then again, I could be just nuts...

Edited July 10, 2022 by bcstones

[bcstones]

21 minutes ago, bcstones said:

I guess my central question was when did Ping change their color system? I'm kinda sorta leaning that it was in the '90s they changed.
Just checked a source, seems the Ping Karsten's were produced in the '70s and the Ping Eye's in the '80s...perhaps the ISi's are from later, 90s? & that's why it sticks in my mind that with those earlier

Pings, the black was most upright...then again, I could be just nuts...

Yup, I'm nuts....I just came up with the old Ping coloring chart here on GolfWRX in a much earlier topic...I now understand what you mean, deejaid - thanks for putting up with my ignorance....or just my nuttyness

[OsnolaKinnard]

I have a set of the PingWrx i3 blades that are +1” and maroon dot.  Love them.

[BIG STU]

6 hours ago, Fellaheen51 said:

 

I'm not a hobbyist bender, so have zero experience.  The risky business part of bending BeCu/Ni irons is cracking a hosel.  Some have made comments that they can be bent up to 2*.  IDK.   But my assessment is it's not worth chancing hosel breakage, on an irreplaceable matching number head.  Snap one, and you immediately devalue your set.  NTM, having to procure a replacement.  

 

Have you hit some balls, observed any directional tendencies?  My MO is see how they fly, before contemplating lie adjustments.  Assuming I'm already in the neighborhood of appropriateness.  if I hit balls reasonable straight, leave well enough alone.  As long as I'm +/- a degree or so, I'm good.  My swing will vary more than that with any given one.  Although some may have differing sensitivity to lie exactitude.  

 

Believe Ping used 1* progression though the color codes at the time of ISI's.  Maroon dot (5*) is very upright.  Which would suggest that you also play longer than "standard" lengths.  What's the length of your bennie set?  Adding length would move the effective lie upright.  All else be equal.  The ratio: .5" △ = 1* △.  The Ping color code chart is based on this relationship.  You're at 3* up now (white), adding .5" would bump it to 4* (silver).  Off the static color chart, I'm at white/silver plus .5" (6'2", 38.5" WTF).  But prefer to go longer and flatter (green +1").  Sorta arriving at the same effective lie point via a different path. 

 

This length, lie, and swing weight business entails a certain alchemy when one is outside the box.  FWIW.

 

 

 

I heat them when I bend them. Not glowing hot but warm and carefully bending them. Then I let them cool and check again. After all of that pull the shaft and re epoxy. When we had the golf shop I was the only one on the beach that would adjust lofts and lies on Ping clubs. Before doing the work I made the customer sign a waiver. And for the time involved I did charge $10 a club had to. 

[pymmdcp]

Had a couple of good finds today. The Tzoids were $69 at goodwill so I passed. Picked up the Macs and Bullseye for $1.70 a club. So bummed the Macs weren’t a full set but they are pretty. 

Edited July 10, 2022 by pymmdcp