Maltby DBM/MMB/TE Forged Question

[Minarets]

Kinda want to try these MMB with some Paderson graphite shafts. Hmmm

[sneaky_pete]

I just finished a set of 3 - 9 Maltby DBM's over Xmas and just hit them for the first time today. True Temper Dynalite Gold XP S300 shafts and Lamkin UTX Midsize grips. I like them a lot - nice feel, good results on hits out of the toe (my miss!), they look great, and perform as good as anything I've hit. Might have finally found something to kick the Mizuno MX-200's out of the bag! I built a set of Bridgestone J38's this year and just did not get along with them at all - knew it from the first couple of hits, they just didn't perform for me, lost over a club in distance and anything out of the toe went no where.

 

Best part is the price - cost me AUD$548.00 (heads, ferrules, shafts & grips). New OEM forgings cost AUD$220+ for each iron = AUD$1540 for 7 irons and I would struggle to get anything with traditional lofts. Wilson Staff are one of the few that still make them.

 

 

 

 

[phatchrisrules]

For all of you who are worried about hitting the ball too high with these, just bend them 1-2* strong...done. The lofts are weak (in comparison to other GI irons like CF16, MP-18 MMC/JPX 900 Forged, Srixon Z565, etc.) for something so forgiving. Just bend them strong and you'll notice a much flatter flight WITHOUT monkeying around with shafts.

 

How many of done this and then did you have any gapping issues with your wedges?

 

I've done it with my wedges. 1* you would never notice, and I had no reason to change my wedge. 2* I haven't done, but you can always just bend your wedges 2* strong to compensate.

[vietnameeh]

I just finished a set of 3 - 9 Maltby DBM's over Xmas and just hit them for the first time today. True Temper Dynalite XP S300 shafts and Lamkin UTX Midsize grips. I like them a lot - nice feel, good results on hits out of the toe (my miss!), they look great, and perform as good as anything I've hit. Might have finally found something to kick the Mizuno MX-200's out of the bag! I built a set of Bridgestone J38's this year and just did not get along with them at all - knew it from the first couple of hits, they just didn't perform for me, lost over a club in distance and anything out of the toe went no where.

 

 

 

I love how clean and simple they look in the bag.

[NRJyzr]

For all of you who are worried about hitting the ball too high with these, just bend them 1-2* strong...done. The lofts are weak (in comparison to other GI irons like CF16, MP-18 MMC/JPX 900 Forged, Srixon Z565, etc.) for something so forgiving. Just bend them strong and you'll notice a much flatter flight WITHOUT monkeying around with shafts.

 

How many of done this and then did you have any gapping issues with your wedges?

 

I've done it with my wedges. 1* you would never notice, and I had no reason to change my wedge. 2* I haven't done, but you can always just bend your wedges 2* strong to compensate.

 

Bending clubs strong to deal with trajectory isn't the wonderful idea it's sold to be. It's based on a fallacy, that the club number has any relevance in the golf shot.

 

If one is hitting a shot too high for a given iron, based on the holy trinity of ballspeed, launch, and spin, by reducing the loft you will have reduced spin and launch, and you will have also increased ballspeed. The ball will almost certainly be still too high with too much spin for the ballspeed produced.

 

If the clubhead produces too high a trajectory, maybe it's not the clubhead for you (meant generically). <shrug>

[Cwebb]

I just finished a set of 3 - 9 Maltby DBM's over Xmas and just hit them for the first time today. True Temper Dynalite XP S300 shafts and Lamkin UTX Midsize grips. I like them a lot - nice feel, good results on hits out of the toe (my miss!), they look great, and perform as good as anything I've hit. Might have finally found something to kick the Mizuno MX-200's out of the bag! I built a set of Bridgestone J38's this year and just did not get along with them at all - knew it from the first couple of hits, they just didn't perform for me, lost over a club in distance and anything out of the toe went no where.

 

Best part is the price - cost me AUD$548.00. New OEM forgings cost AUD$220+ for each iron = AUD$1540 for 7 irons and I would struggle to get anything with traditional lofts. Wilson Staff are one of the few that still make them.

 

 

Good pics. Shows that they're really more of a "dark grey" gunmetal, than they are black. Can see the contrast next to your black head covers

[games]

I just finished a set of 3 - 9 Maltby DBM's over Xmas and just hit them for the first time today. True Temper Dynalite XP S300 shafts and Lamkin UTX Midsize grips. I like them a lot - nice feel, good results on hits out of the toe (my miss!), they look great, and perform as good as anything I've hit. Might have finally found something to kick the Mizuno MX-200's out of the bag! I built a set of Bridgestone J38's this year and just did not get along with them at all - knew it from the first couple of hits, they just didn't perform for me, lost over a club in distance and anything out of the toe went no where.

 

Best part is the price - cost me AUD$548.00. New OEM forgings cost AUD$220+ for each iron = AUD$1540 for 7 irons and I would struggle to get anything with traditional lofts. Wilson Staff are one of the few that still make them.

 

 

Good pics. Shows that they're really more of a "dark grey" gunmetal, than they are black. Can see the contrast next to your black head covers

 

Agreed. At the same time, they don't show the "spot" discoloration of traditional black irons. They start dark gray gunmetal and stay that way!

[sneaky_pete]

I just finished a set of 3 - 9 Maltby DBM's over Xmas and just hit them for the first time today. True Temper Dynalite XP S300 shafts and Lamkin UTX Midsize grips. I like them a lot - nice feel, good results on hits out of the toe (my miss!), they look great, and perform as good as anything I've hit. Might have finally found something to kick the Mizuno MX-200's out of the bag! I built a set of Bridgestone J38's this year and just did not get along with them at all - knew it from the first couple of hits, they just didn't perform for me, lost over a club in distance and anything out of the toe went no where.

 

 

 

I love how clean and simple they look in the bag.

 

yep there are no decals or fancy paint job to fall off or degrade over time - they are as simple as you can get and look better in the flesh than they do in pics.

[Cwebb]

 

I love how clean and simple they look in the bag.

 

yep there are no decals or fancy paint job to fall off or degrade over time - they are as simple as you can get and look better in the flesh than they do in pics.

 

Some have removed the white paint fill, which can make them look even more "clean and simple"

[vietnameeh]

does anyone have pictures of the black MMBs ?

[Minarets]

 

I love how clean and simple they look in the bag.

 

yep there are no decals or fancy paint job to fall off or degrade over time - they are as simple as you can get and look better in the flesh than they do in pics.

 

Some have removed the white paint fill, which can make them look even more "clean and simple"

 

That was my plan. Think it looks cool

[jasonp87]

does anyone have pictures of the black MMBs ?

 

Once mine come in ill post them.

[vietnameeh]

does anyone have pictures of the black MMBs ?

 

Once mine come in ill post them.

 

Sweet!

[Pi5seeker]

Pondering buying a new set with a different shaft and selling my 4-gw with S300. I'd like a little higher ball flight especially from the turf...

[Minarets]

Pondering buying a new set with a different shaft and selling my 4-gw with S300. I'd like a little higher ball flight especially from the turf...

Hmmmm

[Redpro]

Pondering buying a new set with a different shaft and selling my 4-gw with S300. I'd like a little higher ball flight especially from the turf...

Hmmmm

Hmmmm, part 2. :)

[Minarets]

The DBM are reported as softer than the MMB correct? And have a lower COG?

[ode1]

The DBM are reported as softer than the MMB correct? And have a lower COG?

 

The TE Forged/DBM Forged are both 1035cs and the MMB's are 8620cs (in both finishes)...1035cs will be softer, but I have not heard of anyone comparing the DBM (TE's) vs. the regular or non dbm finished MMB's. The DBM finish def impacts the feel.....I had a set of the TE's 6-gw and added a dbm 5i and the feel diff is noticable....that being said it was not negative by ant stretch, still felt good. I have never played either MMB version so cannot do a comparison, but I likely will get a 7 or 8i of the reg finish MMB to test next year.

[jasonp87]

I've hit the the DBM TEs and they felt soft. I dont have a comparison to regular TEs and i dont have my MMB Black yet either. So ill let you know. But the DBM TEs were one of the softest irons ive hit. Almost on par with Mizuno Blades.

 

 

[PeanutsDaddy]

I own a split set of MMB's and TE's. I like the feel of the TE's better and have contemplated dropping the MMB's altogether.

[Cwebb]

I've hit the the DBM TEs and they felt soft. I dont have a comparison to regular TEs and i dont have my MMB Black yet either. So ill let you know. But the DBM TEs were one of the softest irons ive hit. Almost on par with Mizuno Blades.

 

The number one factor for an iron to feel "good/soft", is how easy the sweet-spot is to find for the given player.

 

You could hand someone the softest forging available to try, but if the sweet-spot was in a position that they could rarely get to, then they would conclude that the feel is bad.

 

The DBM/TE is one of the easiest to hit solid irons of all time, so it would surprising if anyone disliked the feel

[sui generis]

I've hit the the DBM TEs and they felt soft. I dont have a comparison to regular TEs and i dont have my MMB Black yet either. So ill let you know. But the DBM TEs were one of the softest irons ive hit. Almost on par with Mizuno Blades.

 

The number one factor for an iron to feel "good/soft", is how easy the sweet-spot is to find for the given player.

 

You could hand someone the softest forging available to try, but if the sweet-spot was in a position that they could rarely get to, then they would conclude that the feel is bad.

 

The DBM/TE is one of the easiest to hit solid irons of all time, so it would surprising if anyone disliked the feel

 

It'll be all your fault!

 

Your learned comment caused me to take my Wishon 565MCs out of the bag and replace them with my TEs. (Both are built/bent to the same specs.) Still it's brass monkeys even here in Asheville for the next two weeks, so we won't know for awhile. :)

[Minarets]

Sucks you can’t buy the individual MMBs without buying the whole set like the DBM

[Cwebb]

Sucks you can’t buy the individual MMBs without buying the whole set like the DBM

 

Just not the 'black' version. Can always get a standard finish for testing

[Cwebb]

The DBM are reported as softer than the MMB correct? And have a lower COG?

 

The TE Forged/DBM Forged are both 1035cs and the MMB's are 8620cs (in both finishes)...1035cs will be softer,

 

8620 is about the same feel as 1035, if just comparing the metal. Obviously different designs can varying feel for other reasons...such as a different sweet-spot position

[ode1]

The DBM are reported as softer than the MMB correct? And have a lower COG?

 

The TE Forged/DBM Forged are both 1035cs and the MMB's are 8620cs (in both finishes)...1035cs will be softer,

 

8620 is about the same feel as 1035, if just comparing the metal. Obviously different designs can varying feel for other reasons...such as a different sweet-spot position

 

I've always heard that 8620, 10xx, and even 303 are close on the hardness scale. I doubt the true forging vs. form forging will impact feel much at all. For whatever reason the 10xx CS have always felt softer to me vs. 8620, but there are way too many other variables to really say it's the specific steel vs. shaft, grip, fit, etc.

[Cwebb]

The DBM are reported as softer than the MMB correct? And have a lower COG?

 

The TE Forged/DBM Forged are both 1035cs and the MMB's are 8620cs (in both finishes)...1035cs will be softer,

 

8620 is about the same feel as 1035, if just comparing the metal. Obviously different designs can varying feel for other reasons...such as a different sweet-spot position

 

I've always heard that 8620, 10xx, and even 303 are close on the hardness scale. I doubt the true forging vs. form forging will impact feel much at all. For whatever reason the 10xx CS have always felt softer to me vs. 8620, but there are way too many other variables to really say it's the specific steel vs. shaft, grip, fit, etc.

 

Yeah, 303/304 is the softest cast material. Very similar in feel to soft 1020 carbon forged. I can feel this in a bending unit.

 

Then we go up firmer to 8620 cast and comparable 1035 carbon forged.

 

I believe on the Rockwell hardness scale, 8620 is close to 1035

[ode1]

I pulled the trigger on a mmb 8i to test....will have to wait until April to do so, but could not wait to take a peek in person. Nice looking. Compared to my current iron, the Wishon 560mc, the sole width/shape as well as blade length are quite similar. The 560 has a bulkier neck, as well as higher toe. At address the 560 looks bigger, I think do to the bigger/taller neck and higher toe. The 8i does not have the notched out area in the muscle, which is shown on the site and in catalog, but it looks like the long irons have tungsten in the toe, notched out/pocket in the mid irons, and short irons are al naturale. The only thing I'm not a fan of is the painted grooves, ugh, but in the end that's no biggie. Can't wait to hit it. Oh yeah, satin baby, satin!

[Cwebb]

I pulled the trigger on a mmb 8i to test....will have to wait until April to do so, but could not wait to take a peek in person. Nice looking. Compared to my current iron, the Wishon 560mc, the sole width/shape as well as blade length are quite similar. The 560 has a bulkier neck, as well as higher toe. At address the 560 looks bigger, I think do to the bigger/taller neck and higher toe. The 8i does not have the notched out area in the muscle, which is shown on the site and in catalog, but it looks like the long irons have tungsten in the toe, notched out/pocket in the mid irons, and short irons are al naturale. The only thing I'm not a fan of is the painted grooves, ugh, but in the end that's no biggie. Can't wait to hit it. Oh yeah, satin baby, satin!

 

The 560 actually has a longer face...but a shorter C-dimension (horizontal COG)....which means the sweet-spot is slightly inside of center. The sweet-spot of the MMB is in the dead center of the face.

 

The "notch" and concave back of the MMB's, starts on the 7 iron. The addition of the tungsten toe, starts at the 5i.

 

You can always remove any 'fill' in the grooves, carefully with acetone

[Minarets]

Man, to MMB or not to MMB? If the DBM are softer, I feel like I’d rather have softer than more compact at the end of the day. But they sure look good.