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Dear blade,


IIvudooII

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My little story of changing from CB to MB blades.

 

I have made the switch from CB's (Ping i20's) to MP-69's with success (lowered my handicap by 2 strokes from an 8 to a 6) and I think I have figured out why and it's not necessarily because they are blades. For me all the difference was minimal offset and thin sole. Going from one extreme to the other extreme has taught me some about what works for me in an iron head. The i20's had a lot more bounce/thicker sole and I rarely took a divot with them. Now with the MP-69's I take a nice divot and the strike is much better. I also fought the i20's from going left. My miss is a toe miss so the blades certainly let me know when I get that wrong. This last weekend was a perfect example of they are great when I am on and bad when I am off. 1 GIR for my round on Saturday (shot 85) and 12 GIR (shot 71) on Sunday.

 

Now I am trying to meet in the middle and have the minimal offset and smaller sole in CB to help with that toe miss. I am also thinking of just replacing the 4-7 with MP-15's to see how that goes as the 8-PW MP-69's I am really comfortable with or replacing with a complete set of players CB's.

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My little story of changing from CB to MB blades.

 

I have made the switch from CB's (Ping i20's) to MP-69's with success (lowered my handicap by 2 strokes from an 8 to a 6) and I think I have figured out why and it's not necessarily because they are blades. For me all the difference was minimal offset and thin sole. Going from one extreme to the other extreme has taught me some about what works for me in an iron head. The i20's had a lot more bounce/thicker sole and I rarely took a divot with them. Now with the MP-69's I take a nice divot and the strike is much better. I also fought the i20's from going left. My miss is a toe miss so the blades certainly let me know when I get that wrong. This last weekend was a perfect example of they are great when I am on and bad when I am off. 1 GIR for my round on Saturday (shot 85) and 12 GIR (shot 71) on Sunday.

 

Now I am trying to meet in the middle and have the minimal offset and smaller sole in CB to help with that toe miss. I am also thinking of just replacing the 4-7 with MP-15's to see how that goes as the 8-PW MP-69's I am really comfortable with or replacing with a complete set of players CB's.

 

I think folks should have one set of MBs for practice, or at a minimum, buy a MB 1 iron. Practice hitting the 1 iron a lot. Believe me, after hitting the 1 iron...the CB 3 iron will look like a wedge. It's a physical and mental workout. And if one starts hitting the MB 1 iron half decent, they'll know their swing is improving.

 

From time to time I will practice hitting my 1991 FG-51 one iron out of divots, 50ish yard chips, punch shots, etc, to get used to controlling a longer club by hitting all kinds of shots. I guarantee the driver will look like a wedge after that workout..

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Dear Blades,

I realize that I didn't warm up today because my playing partners decided to play at oh dark old people. That does not excuse the four decent shots you allowed me over 18 holes today. My putter melted down due to the heat required to save my hide on every hole. The sand wedge is wittled down to a table spoon. Special thanks to the 9, 7, 17° 1i X 2. The rest of you should contemplate the mount of restraint I have to avoid cutting you with acetylene torch.

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My little story of changing from CB to MB blades.

 

I have made the switch from CB's (Ping i20's) to MP-69's with success (lowered my handicap by 2 strokes from an 8 to a 6) and I think I have figured out why and it's not necessarily because they are blades. For me all the difference was minimal offset and thin sole. Going from one extreme to the other extreme has taught me some about what works for me in an iron head. The i20's had a lot more bounce/thicker sole and I rarely took a divot with them. Now with the MP-69's I take a nice divot and the strike is much better. I also fought the i20's from going left. My miss is a toe miss so the blades certainly let me know when I get that wrong. This last weekend was a perfect example of they are great when I am on and bad when I am off. 1 GIR for my round on Saturday (shot 85) and 12 GIR (shot 71) on Sunday.

 

Now I am trying to meet in the middle and have the minimal offset and smaller sole in CB to help with that toe miss. I am also thinking of just replacing the 4-7 with MP-15's to see how that goes as the 8-PW MP-69's I am really comfortable with or replacing with a complete set of players CB's.

 

I think folks should have one set of MBs for practice, or at a minimum, buy a MB 1 iron. Practice hitting the 1 iron a lot. Believe me, after hitting the 1 iron...the CB 3 iron will look like a wedge. It's a physical and mental workout. And if one starts hitting the MB 1 iron half decent, they'll know their swing is improving.

 

From time to time I will practice hitting my 1991 FG-51 one iron out of divots, 50ish yard chips, punch shots, etc, to get used to controlling a longer club by hitting all kinds of shots. I guarantee the driver will look like a wedge after that workout..

 

This is really good advice IF AND ONLY IF you have the mental discipline to hit a million awful shots in a row to figure it out. The problem with this method is people get (1) embarrassed at the range after hitting 30 skulls in a row and (2) your subconscious starts doing what it thinks it needs to do to hit that 1 iron, which is scooping it.

 

So if you stay at it until you can hit tracer bullets 230 yards in the air, this is good advice. If you start scoop-slapping it 180, you are reinforcing awful habits. Most golfers will do the second. They will start aiming left without realizing it, throwing the clubhead outside, raising their left side like crazy up into the air on the downswing, and will add 10* of loft by not having any shaft lean. They can "hit it" this way, and ruin their swing.

 

There are a lot of people who throw this advice out there, and it works for some. But for the vast majority who are not trying to build a tour swing it just creates frustration and bad habits. The dead giveaway is the right heel. When the player thinks they can't get it in the air, the right heel starts pivoting backwards instead of staying down as long as possible and moving forward to get on the right toe. When the player starts getting on the right toe by swiveling the right heel away from the target and up halfway down the backswing, they're cooked, and hitting a club you can't hit is a really good way to get people to start scoop-swiveling like this.

 

EDIT -

 

If you really want to get good, you practice by hitting a MB 1 iron off concrete, like a cart path by the range. That is hard as f*ing hell.

G400 Max 9* Ventus Red 5X, SIM Ventus Red 6X 

Callaway Mavrik 4 (18*) - AW (46*) Project X 5.5

Vokey SM4 50* SM5 56*

Cameron Phantom 5S

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Dear blade,

 

We've been together now 3 months. I've practiced more than ever .....because of you. I am striking the ball better than ever...because of you. My score is slowly getting lower and more consistent....because of you. My eyes don't wonder at the latest and greatest irons jam packed with technology....because of you.

 

Because of you blade, I created the word Rawsome.

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Dear Blade,

 

Be very careful. There are many who are smitten with you. Some have posted intense feelings. Others ogle you from afar.

 

A restraining order may be necessary.

 

A concerned friend,

 

C.B.

Cobra King F9 10.5*
Cobra F9 14.5*
Cobra 18.5*
Adams Super S Hybrids 22*, 25*
NCW 24*, 28*, 33*, 38*, 43*, 48*, 53*
Mac Custom Grind 58* (NevadaGolfGuy Special)
Bradley, Geom, Machine, Mannkrafted, Ping, Rife, SGC, Scotty, Tad Moore, Xenon

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My little story of changing from CB to MB blades.

 

I have made the switch from CB's (Ping i20's) to MP-69's with success (lowered my handicap by 2 strokes from an 8 to a 6) and I think I have figured out why and it's not necessarily because they are blades. For me all the difference was minimal offset and thin sole. Going from one extreme to the other extreme has taught me some about what works for me in an iron head. The i20's had a lot more bounce/thicker sole and I rarely took a divot with them. Now with the MP-69's I take a nice divot and the strike is much better. I also fought the i20's from going left. My miss is a toe miss so the blades certainly let me know when I get that wrong. This last weekend was a perfect example of they are great when I am on and bad when I am off. 1 GIR for my round on Saturday (shot 85) and 12 GIR (shot 71) on Sunday.

 

Now I am trying to meet in the middle and have the minimal offset and smaller sole in CB to help with that toe miss. I am also thinking of just replacing the 4-7 with MP-15's to see how that goes as the 8-PW MP-69's I am really comfortable with or replacing with a complete set of players CB's.

 

I think folks should have one set of MBs for practice, or at a minimum, buy a MB 1 iron. Practice hitting the 1 iron a lot. Believe me, after hitting the 1 iron...the CB 3 iron will look like a wedge. It's a physical and mental workout. And if one starts hitting the MB 1 iron half decent, they'll know their swing is improving.

 

From time to time I will practice hitting my 1991 FG-51 one iron out of divots, 50ish yard chips, punch shots, etc, to get used to controlling a longer club by hitting all kinds of shots. I guarantee the driver will look like a wedge after that workout..

 

This is really good advice IF AND ONLY IF you have the mental discipline to hit a million awful shots in a row to figure it out. The problem with this method is people get (1) embarrassed at the range after hitting 30 skulls in a row and (2) your subconscious starts doing what it thinks it needs to do to hit that 1 iron, which is scooping it.

 

So if you stay at it until you can hit tracer bullets 230 yards in the air, this is good advice. If you start scoop-slapping it 180, you are reinforcing awful habits. Most golfers will do the second. They will start aiming left without realizing it, throwing the clubhead outside, raising their left side like crazy up into the air on the downswing, and will add 10* of loft by not having any shaft lean. They can "hit it" this way, and ruin their swing.

 

There are a lot of people who throw this advice out there, and it works for some. But for the vast majority who are not trying to build a tour swing it just creates frustration and bad habits. The dead giveaway is the right heel. When the player thinks they can't get it in the air, the right heel starts pivoting backwards instead of staying down as long as possible and moving forward to get on the right toe. When the player starts getting on the right toe by swiveling the right heel away from the target and up halfway down the backswing, they're cooked, and hitting a club you can't hit is a really good way to get people to start scoop-swiveling like this.

 

EDIT -

 

If you really want to get good, you practice by hitting a MB 1 iron off concrete, like a cart path by the range. That is hard as f*ing hell.

 

The whole idea of hitting the MB one iron is to NOT expect any good shots...maybe one out of 50 actually go anywhere, but this is not a Type-A brain "must hit well" workout, at least for me.. Of course the shots will be miserable...it's expected...but that's not the point. It's about going from a butter-knife one iron out of divots to a CB 5 iron, or any club, and after that workout they look mighty easy to hit.

 

And if a guy next to me at the range wants to make snide remarks hitting God-Awful shots...i hand him my one iron and say "you try it"...it's happened...and they STFU PDQ.

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My little story of changing from CB to MB blades.

 

I have made the switch from CB's (Ping i20's) to MP-69's with success (lowered my handicap by 2 strokes from an 8 to a 6) and I think I have figured out why and it's not necessarily because they are blades. For me all the difference was minimal offset and thin sole. Going from one extreme to the other extreme has taught me some about what works for me in an iron head. The i20's had a lot more bounce/thicker sole and I rarely took a divot with them. Now with the MP-69's I take a nice divot and the strike is much better. I also fought the i20's from going left. My miss is a toe miss so the blades certainly let me know when I get that wrong. This last weekend was a perfect example of they are great when I am on and bad when I am off. 1 GIR for my round on Saturday (shot 85) and 12 GIR (shot 71) on Sunday.

 

Now I am trying to meet in the middle and have the minimal offset and smaller sole in CB to help with that toe miss. I am also thinking of just replacing the 4-7 with MP-15's to see how that goes as the 8-PW MP-69's I am really comfortable with or replacing with a complete set of players CB's.

 

I think folks should have one set of MBs for practice, or at a minimum, buy a MB 1 iron. Practice hitting the 1 iron a lot. Believe me, after hitting the 1 iron...the CB 3 iron will look like a wedge. It's a physical and mental workout. And if one starts hitting the MB 1 iron half decent, they'll know their swing is improving.

 

From time to time I will practice hitting my 1991 FG-51 one iron out of divots, 50ish yard chips, punch shots, etc, to get used to controlling a longer club by hitting all kinds of shots. I guarantee the driver will look like a wedge after that workout..

 

This is really good advice IF AND ONLY IF you have the mental discipline to hit a million awful shots in a row to figure it out. The problem with this method is people get (1) embarrassed at the range after hitting 30 skulls in a row and (2) your subconscious starts doing what it thinks it needs to do to hit that 1 iron, which is scooping it.

 

So if you stay at it until you can hit tracer bullets 230 yards in the air, this is good advice. If you start scoop-slapping it 180, you are reinforcing awful habits. Most golfers will do the second. They will start aiming left without realizing it, throwing the clubhead outside, raising their left side like crazy up into the air on the downswing, and will add 10* of loft by not having any shaft lean. They can "hit it" this way, and ruin their swing.

 

There are a lot of people who throw this advice out there, and it works for some. But for the vast majority who are not trying to build a tour swing it just creates frustration and bad habits. The dead giveaway is the right heel. When the player thinks they can't get it in the air, the right heel starts pivoting backwards instead of staying down as long as possible and moving forward to get on the right toe. When the player starts getting on the right toe by swiveling the right heel away from the target and up halfway down the backswing, they're cooked, and hitting a club you can't hit is a really good way to get people to start scoop-swiveling like this.

 

EDIT -

 

If you really want to get good, you practice by hitting a MB 1 iron off concrete, like a cart path by the range. That is hard as f*ing hell.

 

I'm not sure I am on board with this. Convince me why I should work on hitting an MB 1 iron when my longest iron is 36.5" and my club that would go the distance of a perfectly struck MB 1 iron has a totally different head design and a graphite shaft.

 

In theory, I get it. But it assumes the "best" swing I can put on an MB 1 iron will automatically translate to my SL setup, or my 5 wood swing. It's two totally different clubs with different MOIs and different shaft tip stiffnesses. It's going to feel totally different.

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My little story of changing from CB to MB blades.

 

I have made the switch from CB's (Ping i20's) to MP-69's with success (lowered my handicap by 2 strokes from an 8 to a 6) and I think I have figured out why and it's not necessarily because they are blades. For me all the difference was minimal offset and thin sole. Going from one extreme to the other extreme has taught me some about what works for me in an iron head. The i20's had a lot more bounce/thicker sole and I rarely took a divot with them. Now with the MP-69's I take a nice divot and the strike is much better. I also fought the i20's from going left. My miss is a toe miss so the blades certainly let me know when I get that wrong. This last weekend was a perfect example of they are great when I am on and bad when I am off. 1 GIR for my round on Saturday (shot 85) and 12 GIR (shot 71) on Sunday.

 

Now I am trying to meet in the middle and have the minimal offset and smaller sole in CB to help with that toe miss. I am also thinking of just replacing the 4-7 with MP-15's to see how that goes as the 8-PW MP-69's I am really comfortable with or replacing with a complete set of players CB's.

 

I think folks should have one set of MBs for practice, or at a minimum, buy a MB 1 iron. Practice hitting the 1 iron a lot. Believe me, after hitting the 1 iron...the CB 3 iron will look like a wedge. It's a physical and mental workout. And if one starts hitting the MB 1 iron half decent, they'll know their swing is improving.

 

From time to time I will practice hitting my 1991 FG-51 one iron out of divots, 50ish yard chips, punch shots, etc, to get used to controlling a longer club by hitting all kinds of shots. I guarantee the driver will look like a wedge after that workout..

 

This is really good advice IF AND ONLY IF you have the mental discipline to hit a million awful shots in a row to figure it out. The problem with this method is people get (1) embarrassed at the range after hitting 30 skulls in a row and (2) your subconscious starts doing what it thinks it needs to do to hit that 1 iron, which is scooping it.

 

So if you stay at it until you can hit tracer bullets 230 yards in the air, this is good advice. If you start scoop-slapping it 180, you are reinforcing awful habits. Most golfers will do the second. They will start aiming left without realizing it, throwing the clubhead outside, raising their left side like crazy up into the air on the downswing, and will add 10* of loft by not having any shaft lean. They can "hit it" this way, and ruin their swing.

 

There are a lot of people who throw this advice out there, and it works for some. But for the vast majority who are not trying to build a tour swing it just creates frustration and bad habits. The dead giveaway is the right heel. When the player thinks they can't get it in the air, the right heel starts pivoting backwards instead of staying down as long as possible and moving forward to get on the right toe. When the player starts getting on the right toe by swiveling the right heel away from the target and up halfway down the backswing, they're cooked, and hitting a club you can't hit is a really good way to get people to start scoop-swiveling like this.

 

EDIT -

 

If you really want to get good, you practice by hitting a MB 1 iron off concrete, like a cart path by the range. That is hard as f*ing hell.

 

I'm not sure I am on board with this. Convince me why I should work on hitting an MB 1 iron when my longest iron is 36.5" and my club that would go the distance of a perfectly struck MB 1 iron has a totally different head design and a graphite shaft.

 

In theory, I get it. But it assumes the "best" swing I can put on an MB 1 iron will automatically translate to my SL setup, or my 5 wood swing. It's two totally different clubs with different MOIs and different shaft tip stiffnesses. It's going to feel totally different.

 

Sure, just like pulling a huge tire behind you "feels different" than not pulling a huge tire behind you, but that is how most NFL running backs getting better at running with power. While the "feel" isn't the same, you can get away with a whole lot less with a MB 1 iron than your 36.5 SL club.

 

In music, for example, the output of an amplifier is measured in watts. If i need 200 watts to carry a room and i bring a 200 watt amplifier and put it on max, it won't sound nearly as good as a 1000 watt amplifier at 20% although both if you measured them would be exactly 200 watts. The headroom makes for much less distortion. Similarly, the margin for error is way smaller with the MB 1 iron but the elements (path, face, weight left, no sidebend, no R knee toward the ball, etc...) that makes for a good swing are the same, its just that the tolerances are WAY tighter. So when you get under pressure with your actual clubs, your swing is a 1000 watt amplifier working at 20% not a 200 watt amplifier working at 100% (which it might be if you just hit easy-to-hit SL clubs on the range constantly).

 

Note that this is basically impossible for almost everyone to actually do because (1) they don't have time and (2) their ego can't take weeks and weeks of sucking wind with a 1 iron, hence my caveat. But there is overskill training in virtually every sport to create this "headroom" above a successful execution, and I think it would work for golf.

 

Also note that I don't know for sure, because i've never done it, because i can't take how boring it would be. But in theory it seems like it would work just like any other sport.

G400 Max 9* Ventus Red 5X, SIM Ventus Red 6X 

Callaway Mavrik 4 (18*) - AW (46*) Project X 5.5

Vokey SM4 50* SM5 56*

Cameron Phantom 5S

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My little story of changing from CB to MB blades.

 

I have made the switch from CB's (Ping i20's) to MP-69's with success (lowered my handicap by 2 strokes from an 8 to a 6) and I think I have figured out why and it's not necessarily because they are blades. For me all the difference was minimal offset and thin sole. Going from one extreme to the other extreme has taught me some about what works for me in an iron head. The i20's had a lot more bounce/thicker sole and I rarely took a divot with them. Now with the MP-69's I take a nice divot and the strike is much better. I also fought the i20's from going left. My miss is a toe miss so the blades certainly let me know when I get that wrong. This last weekend was a perfect example of they are great when I am on and bad when I am off. 1 GIR for my round on Saturday (shot 85) and 12 GIR (shot 71) on Sunday.

 

Now I am trying to meet in the middle and have the minimal offset and smaller sole in CB to help with that toe miss. I am also thinking of just replacing the 4-7 with MP-15's to see how that goes as the 8-PW MP-69's I am really comfortable with or replacing with a complete set of players CB's.

 

I think folks should have one set of MBs for practice, or at a minimum, buy a MB 1 iron. Practice hitting the 1 iron a lot. Believe me, after hitting the 1 iron...the CB 3 iron will look like a wedge. It's a physical and mental workout. And if one starts hitting the MB 1 iron half decent, they'll know their swing is improving.

 

From time to time I will practice hitting my 1991 FG-51 one iron out of divots, 50ish yard chips, punch shots, etc, to get used to controlling a longer club by hitting all kinds of shots. I guarantee the driver will look like a wedge after that workout..

 

This is really good advice IF AND ONLY IF you have the mental discipline to hit a million awful shots in a row to figure it out. The problem with this method is people get (1) embarrassed at the range after hitting 30 skulls in a row and (2) your subconscious starts doing what it thinks it needs to do to hit that 1 iron, which is scooping it.

 

So if you stay at it until you can hit tracer bullets 230 yards in the air, this is good advice. If you start scoop-slapping it 180, you are reinforcing awful habits. Most golfers will do the second. They will start aiming left without realizing it, throwing the clubhead outside, raising their left side like crazy up into the air on the downswing, and will add 10* of loft by not having any shaft lean. They can "hit it" this way, and ruin their swing.

 

There are a lot of people who throw this advice out there, and it works for some. But for the vast majority who are not trying to build a tour swing it just creates frustration and bad habits. The dead giveaway is the right heel. When the player thinks they can't get it in the air, the right heel starts pivoting backwards instead of staying down as long as possible and moving forward to get on the right toe. When the player starts getting on the right toe by swiveling the right heel away from the target and up halfway down the backswing, they're cooked, and hitting a club you can't hit is a really good way to get people to start scoop-swiveling like this.

 

EDIT -

 

If you really want to get good, you practice by hitting a MB 1 iron off concrete, like a cart path by the range. That is hard as f*ing hell.

 

I'm not sure I am on board with this. Convince me why I should work on hitting an MB 1 iron when my longest iron is 36.5" and my club that would go the distance of a perfectly struck MB 1 iron has a totally different head design and a graphite shaft.

 

In theory, I get it. But it assumes the "best" swing I can put on an MB 1 iron will automatically translate to my SL setup, or my 5 wood swing. It's two totally different clubs with different MOIs and different shaft tip stiffnesses. It's going to feel totally different.

 

Sure, just like pulling a huge tire behind you "feels different" than not pulling a huge tire behind you, but that is how most NFL running backs getting better at running with power. While the "feel" isn't the same, you can get away with a whole lot less with a MB 1 iron than your 36.5 SL club.

 

In music, for example, the output of an amplifier is measured in watts. If i need 200 watts to carry a room and i bring a 200 watt amplifier and put it on max, it won't sound nearly as good as a 1000 watt amplifier at 20% although both if you measured them would be exactly 200 watts. The headroom makes for much less distortion. Similarly, the margin for error is way smaller with the MB 1 iron but the elements (path, face, weight left, no sidebend, no R knee toward the ball, etc...) that makes for a good swing are the same, its just that the tolerances are WAY tighter. So when you get under pressure with your actual clubs, your swing is a 1000 watt amplifier working at 20% not a 200 watt amplifier working at 100% (which it might be if you just hit easy-to-hit SL clubs on the range constantly).

 

Note that this is basically impossible for almost everyone to actually do because (1) they don't have time and (2) their ego can't take weeks and weeks of sucking wind with a 1 iron, hence my caveat. But there is overskill training in virtually every sport to create this "headroom" above a successful execution, and I think it would work for golf.

 

Also note that I don't know for sure, because i've never done it, because i can't take how boring it would be. But in theory it seems like it would work just like any other sport.

 

I can add an analogy from football (soccer). Sir Bobby Charlton had one of the most accurate and hardest shots in football with either foot. He learned to shoot that hard by practicing with a tennis ball when he was a kid (they couldn’t afford a football) and he didn’t have anything else to use. After learning to shoot with a tennis ball, kicking a football was easy.

 

http://www.manutd.com/en/News-And-Features/Features/2017/Oct/video-16-great-sir-bobby-charlton-goals-for-manchester-united.aspx

Callaway Big Bertha Alpha Fubuki ZT Stiff
Callaway XR Speed 3W Project X HZRDUS T800 65 Stiff
Wilson Staff FG Tour M3 21* Hybrid Aldila RIP Stiff
Cobra King CB/MB Flow 4-6, 7-PW C-Taper Stiff or Mizuno MP4 4-PW
Vokey SM8 52/58; MD Golf 56
Radius Classic 8

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Once you have flushed a bladed long iron nothing will ever be the same again. It make take a while to do it again, but it will be logged in the memory bank.

 

The first time I flushed my blade 3i I was confused, but i knew exactly what happened. I actually stepped back and looked down the range line to see if anyone else was experiencing the same post - shot orgasmic experience.

 

That single shot... is why I will never give blades up.

Callaway Rogue Sub Zero 9°, Rogue Elite 859 65R

Adams Idea Pro 20° VS Proto
Nike VR Pro Combo 3-PW XP115
Nike VR 54/58/62 XP115
Nike MC04w 
TP5X

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Once you have flushed a bladed long iron nothing will ever be the same again. It make take a while to do it again, but it will be logged in the memory bank.

 

The first time I flushed my blade 3i I was confused, but i knew exactly what happened. I actually stepped back and looked down the range line to see if anyone else was experiencing the same post - shot orgasmic experience.

 

That single shot... is why I will never give blades up.

 

I don’t understand this. Not arguing, asking. When you flush a shot you hit it in the dead middle of the clubface and there is no vibration.

 

If there is no vibration how can blades and GI feel different? You feel nothing. That’s why pured shots feel so good. The lack of vibration.

G400 Max 9* Ventus Red 5X, SIM Ventus Red 6X 

Callaway Mavrik 4 (18*) - AW (46*) Project X 5.5

Vokey SM4 50* SM5 56*

Cameron Phantom 5S

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Once you have flushed a bladed long iron nothing will ever be the same again. It make take a while to do it again, but it will be logged in the memory bank.

 

The first time I flushed my blade 3i I was confused, but i knew exactly what happened. I actually stepped back and looked down the range line to see if anyone else was experiencing the same post - shot orgasmic experience.

 

That single shot... is why I will never give blades up.

 

I don’t understand this. Not arguing, asking. When you flush a shot you hit it in the dead middle of the clubface and there is no vibration.

 

If there is no vibration how can blades and GI feel different? You feel nothing. That’s why pured shots feel so good. The lack of vibration.

 

Maybe it’s more to do with the noise a forged club makes in comparison to a cast club.

Taylormade Sim 2 Max - 10.5 Ventus Blue 6X
Titleist TSR3 - @15.75 Tensei 1K Black 75X
Titleist TSR3 Hybrid - @20 Tensei 1K Black 85X

Titleist 620 CB  - 4 iron - Dynamic Gold Tour Issue X100

Titleist 620 MB - 5-pw - Dynamic Gold Tour Issue X100

Vokey SM9 - 52.08, 56S  & 60M Dynamic Gold Tour Issue S400
Taylormade Spider Tour X - X3
Titleist - Pro V1

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Once you have flushed a bladed long iron nothing will ever be the same again. It make take a while to do it again, but it will be logged in the memory bank.

 

The first time I flushed my blade 3i I was confused, but i knew exactly what happened. I actually stepped back and looked down the range line to see if anyone else was experiencing the same post - shot orgasmic experience.

 

That single shot... is why I will never give blades up.

 

I don’t understand this. Not arguing, asking. When you flush a shot you hit it in the dead middle of the clubface and there is no vibration.

 

If there is no vibration how can blades and GI feel different? You feel nothing. That’s why pured shots feel so good. The lack of vibration.

 

Maybe it’s more to do with the noise a forged club makes in comparison to a cast club.

 

Probably also to do with the amount of metal behind the sweetspot.

 

There is another potential outcome of the 1 iron practice routine. It could end up a permanent fixture in your bag - mine has, and it is like an old friend. OK an old friend that has high standards, but if you live up to them, he will back you up all the way. And even if you don't, he has a habit of not punishing you too harshly - if I catch a 3 wood out of the toe it's going OOB, if I do the same with my old friend, he'll drop me about 30 yards short of the s***, with a long iron in to help me think about what I have done.

 

What's more, if your other friends let you down and leave you in the trees, the 1 iron will prove a very useful friend to get you out.

 

I suspect I've milked the friend metaphor a bit there, but you get my drift. The 1 iron is a challenging, but bloody useful club if you're up to it.

The Dee Three - Titleist TS4 9.5 deg, EvenFlow White 6.5 65g, A1 Setting

Henrik - Titleist 917 F3 15 deg, Rogue Max 75x, B2 Setting

The Walking Stick - Titleist 818 H2 19 deg, Rogue Max 85x, B2 Setting

The Interloper - TaylorMade P770 3 iron, S400 Tour Issue, +0.5inch +1 deg loft

The Blades - Nike VR Pro 4 - AW, S400 Tour Issue, +0.5 inch

The Sand Iron - TaylorMade MG2 TW-12 Grind, 56 degree, S400 Tour Issue

The Flopper - TaylorMade MG2 TW-11 Grind, 60 Degree, S400 Tour Issue

The Putter - Nike Method 003 from The Oven

 

"Golf is only called golf as all the other four letter words have been taken"     - Leslie Nielsen

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Once you have flushed a bladed long iron nothing will ever be the same again. It make take a while to do it again, but it will be logged in the memory bank.

 

The first time I flushed my blade 3i I was confused, but i knew exactly what happened. I actually stepped back and looked down the range line to see if anyone else was experiencing the same post - shot orgasmic experience.

 

That single shot... is why I will never give blades up.

 

I don’t understand this. Not arguing, asking. When you flush a shot you hit it in the dead middle of the clubface and there is no vibration.

 

If there is no vibration how can blades and GI feel different? You feel nothing. That’s why pured shots feel so good. The lack of vibration.

 

Maybe it’s more to do with the noise a forged club makes in comparison to a cast club.

 

Probably also to do with the amount of metal behind the sweetspot.

 

There is another potential outcome of the 1 iron practice routine. It could end up a permanent fixture in your bag - mine has, and it is like an old friend. OK an old friend that has high standards, but if you live up to them, he will back you up all the way. And even if you don't, he has a habit of not punishing you too harshly - if I catch a 3 wood out of the toe it's going OOB, if I do the same with my old friend, he'll drop me about 30 yards short of the s***, with a long iron in to help me think about what I have done.

 

What's more, if your other friends let you down and leave you in the trees, the 1 iron will prove a very useful friend to get you out.

 

I suspect I've milked the friend metaphor a bit there, but you get my drift. The 1 iron is a challenging, but bloody useful club if you're up to it.

 

Much respect to you for playing a 1 iron. Spaces in the bag are limited a club in that section needs to be a versatile club. For me a 1 iron doesn’t fill that space, especially a bladed one.

Taylormade Sim 2 Max - 10.5 Ventus Blue 6X
Titleist TSR3 - @15.75 Tensei 1K Black 75X
Titleist TSR3 Hybrid - @20 Tensei 1K Black 85X

Titleist 620 CB  - 4 iron - Dynamic Gold Tour Issue X100

Titleist 620 MB - 5-pw - Dynamic Gold Tour Issue X100

Vokey SM9 - 52.08, 56S  & 60M Dynamic Gold Tour Issue S400
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There is another potential outcome of the 1 iron practice routine. It could end up a permanent fixture in your bag - mine has, and it is like an old friend. OK an old friend that has high standards, but if you live up to them, he will back you up all the way. And even if you don't, he has a habit of not punishing you too harshly - if I catch a 3 wood out of the toe it's going OOB, if I do the same with my old friend, he'll drop me about 30 yards short of the s***, with a long iron in to help me think about what I have done.

 

What's more, if your other friends let you down and leave you in the trees, the 1 iron will prove a very useful friend to get you out.

 

I suspect I've milked the friend metaphor a bit there, but you get my drift. The 1 iron is a challenging, but bloody useful club if you're up to it.

I started off using my seven iron as my out of trees club. It was bad advice from a poor golf partner. I've hit more trees and branches with that than anything else and been back where I started or worse. Enter the choked down 1 iron just making contact. Low blast out of the trees and back in the game.

I agree with the general kindness of not damning you to arboretum oblivion with the blade #1, but it is possible to get into trouble with any club.

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Once you have flushed a bladed long iron nothing will ever be the same again. It make take a while to do it again, but it will be logged in the memory bank.

 

The first time I flushed my blade 3i I was confused, but i knew exactly what happened. I actually stepped back and looked down the range line to see if anyone else was experiencing the same post - shot orgasmic experience.

 

That single shot... is why I will never give blades up.

 

I don’t understand this. Not arguing, asking. When you flush a shot you hit it in the dead middle of the clubface and there is no vibration.

 

If there is no vibration how can blades and GI feel different? You feel nothing. That’s why pured shots feel so good. The lack of vibration.

 

Bingo. I've been saying this for a long time now.

 

That "feel" you get from a pured shot is not a feeling at all. It is a LACK of feeling. A lack of feeling ANY vibration up the shaft into the hands and the lack of feeling ANY twisting of the club head.

 

It's pretty much like taking a full practice swing and wondering what that ever-so-slight resistance was at the bottom - it was the ball leaving the club face.

 

Forged shmorged. The best pros can't feel the difference in metal club heads but we hackers can. Ridiculous.

 

And where do we use the most "touch" in the game ? Chipping and pitching around the green. And the overwhelming wedge of choice of pros and low handicappers ? VOKEY. CAST wedges.

Callaway Epic Flash SZ 9.0 Ventus Blue 6S

Ping G425 14.5 Fairway Tour AD TP 6X

Ping G425 MAX 20.5 7 wood Diamana Blue 70 S

Ping G20 5-PW DGS300 Yellow Dot

Ping Glide Pro 48*

Taylormade MG3 52*, 56*, TW 60* DGS200

LAB Mezz Max 35*, RED, Black Accra

Callaway Tour TruTrack Yellow

 

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There's 3 types of impact, the clank the nutted and the pure. The pure is zero vibration, the nutted goes just as well as pure but impact vibration is heard and felt. All things have a resonant frequency, golf clubs are no different from objects in the rest of the universe. But not really surprised Pro's do not discern much difference . At elevated speeds, feel of impact is attenuated by the violence and velocity and necessary grip pressure to handle it all. It's mostly swoosh and gun crack at that level.

 

You know why the Stradivarius violin has no peers in quality? The wood. The forest it was pulled from was old growth that went through 300 years of a unique climate cycle. The grain and density and resulting resonant frequency was an off shoot of something that cannot be easily replicated. On a much more benign scale, how a club is made determines it's resonant frequency. I sleep better and give thanks to a culture that bred Mizuno, Endo and Miura and for them carrying the torch for fine forging. And yes I can tell the difference between each of those and Hofffman's and cold forged and cast. Anyone can if they listened for it. Does it matter? Not really but then again, does a coffee roast matter, after all, they're all hot and have caffeine. So why sweat the Starbuck's? I drink McCafe and spend on the blades but that's me.

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Once you have flushed a bladed long iron nothing will ever be the same again. It make take a while to do it again, but it will be logged in the memory bank.

 

The first time I flushed my blade 3i I was confused, but i knew exactly what happened. I actually stepped back and looked down the range line to see if anyone else was experiencing the same post - shot orgasmic experience.

 

That single shot... is why I will never give blades up.

 

I don’t understand this. Not arguing, asking. When you flush a shot you hit it in the dead middle of the clubface and there is no vibration.

 

If there is no vibration how can blades and GI feel different? You feel nothing. That’s why pured shots feel so good. The lack of vibration.

 

The depth of material behind the impact zone makes the difference.

 

The CB face material is thin from heal to toe with outer edge depth, allowing a larger nickel size sweet spot and designed with peripheral thickness which minimizes vibration.

There are two types of blades; muscle back (contemporary) and a butter knife design; both are solid blocks of forged steel that has the greater depth of material behind the sweet spot and more material out towards the toe and heal, yet smaller size sweet spot.

I have forged Titleist 716CB's, forged custom MacGregor 1025 blades and Titleist forged 670 MB's. :beach:

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There's 3 types of impact, the clank the nutted and the pure. The pure is zero vibration, the nutted goes just as well as pure but impact vibration is heard and felt. All things have a resonant frequency, golf clubs are no different from objects in the rest of the universe. But not really surprised Pro's do not discern much difference . At elevated speeds, feel of impact is attenuated by the violence and velocity and necessary grip pressure to handle it all. It's mostly swoosh and gun crack at that level.

 

You know why the Stradivarius violin has no peers in quality? The wood. The forest it was pulled from was old growth that went through 300 years of a unique climate cycle. The grain and density and resulting resonant frequency was an off shoot of something that cannot be easily replicated. On a much more benign scale, how a club is made determines it's resonant frequency. I sleep better and give thanks to a culture that bred Mizuno, Endo and Miura and for them carrying the torch for fine forging. And yes I can tell the difference between each of those and Hofffman's and cold forged and cast. Anyone can if they listened for it. Does it matter? Not really but then again, does a coffee roast matter, after all, they're all hot and have caffeine. So why sweat the Starbuck's? I drink McCafe and spend on the blades but that's me.

 

Dude, f*** that and drink some K Cups. Minimal setup cost, then WAY less than your McCafe. You could have even more blades by now!

 

:D

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Once you have flushed a bladed long iron nothing will ever be the same again. It make take a while to do it again, but it will be logged in the memory bank.

 

The first time I flushed my blade 3i I was confused, but i knew exactly what happened. I actually stepped back and looked down the range line to see if anyone else was experiencing the same post - shot orgasmic experience.

 

That single shot... is why I will never give blades up.

 

I don’t understand this. Not arguing, asking. When you flush a shot you hit it in the dead middle of the clubface and there is no vibration.

 

If there is no vibration how can blades and GI feel different? You feel nothing. That’s why pured shots feel so good. The lack of vibration.

 

The depth of material behind the impact zone makes the difference.

 

The CB face material is thin from heal to toe with outer edge depth, allowing a larger nickel size sweet spot and designed with peripheral thickness which minimizes vibration.

There are two types of blades; muscle back (contemporary) and a butter knife design; both are solid blocks of forged steel that has the greater depth of material behind the sweet spot and more material out towards the toe and heal, yet smaller size sweet spot.

I have forged Titleist 716CB's, forged custom MacGregor 1025 blades and Titleist forged 670 MB's. :beach:

 

The Club designer at Mizuno explaining the difference.

 

Taylormade Sim 2 Max - 10.5 Ventus Blue 6X
Titleist TSR3 - @15.75 Tensei 1K Black 75X
Titleist TSR3 Hybrid - @20 Tensei 1K Black 85X

Titleist 620 CB  - 4 iron - Dynamic Gold Tour Issue X100

Titleist 620 MB - 5-pw - Dynamic Gold Tour Issue X100

Vokey SM9 - 52.08, 56S  & 60M Dynamic Gold Tour Issue S400
Taylormade Spider Tour X - X3
Titleist - Pro V1

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Once you have flushed a bladed long iron nothing will ever be the same again. It make take a while to do it again, but it will be logged in the memory bank.

 

The first time I flushed my blade 3i I was confused, but i knew exactly what happened. I actually stepped back and looked down the range line to see if anyone else was experiencing the same post - shot orgasmic experience.

 

That single shot... is why I will never give blades up.

 

I don’t understand this. Not arguing, asking. When you flush a shot you hit it in the dead middle of the clubface and there is no vibration.

 

If there is no vibration how can blades and GI feel different? You feel nothing. That’s why pured shots feel so good. The lack of vibration.

 

The depth of material behind the impact zone makes the difference.

 

The CB face material is thin from heal to toe with outer edge depth, allowing a larger nickel size sweet spot and designed with peripheral thickness which minimizes vibration.

There are two types of blades; muscle back (contemporary) and a butter knife design; both are solid blocks of forged steel that has the greater depth of material behind the sweet spot and more material out towards the toe and heal, yet smaller size sweet spot.

I have forged Titleist 716CB's, forged custom MacGregor 1025 blades and Titleist forged 670 MB's. :beach:

 

The Club designer at Mizuno explaining the difference.

 

 

He addessed difference between cast vs. forged. Nothing about CB vs MB

  • TSR2 9.25° Ventus Velo TR Blue 58S
  • TSR2 15° GD Tour AD-VF 74S
  • T200 17 2i° Tensei AV Raw White Hybrid 90S
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Feel wise, i can’t tell the difference between a forged CB or MB. A difference in flight yes, but not in feel.

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Titleist 620 CB  - 4 iron - Dynamic Gold Tour Issue X100

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Feel wise, i can’t tell the difference between a forged CB or MB. A difference in flight yes, but not in feel.

 

Feel is subjective. If you get a chance tape up your 5i and a Ping 5i, see if you can feel the difference, and then look at where the ball left a mark on the face tape of each iron. People miss what they think to be the Ping sweet spot, and believe they hit a pure shot. You miss the sweet spot on a 716CB 5i face you should feel it.

My first set of irons were off the shelve Pings, but after six-eight months switched to Mizuno blades. I played MB's up to 2007. Check out what Crossfield says: http://bit.ly/2wFTF6C He momentarily brings up tour players that hit across the face, etc... and yet they are tour players. :)

 

716CB doesn't have a large deep cavity like other CB's; its small, shallow with a bulge behind the sweet spot, but not as thick as MB; which I suspect contributes to MPF rating. Crossfield and I agree, and why I play 716CB; they feel and look at address similar to my MB's. Though there's some forgiveness, it's comparatively minimal, again possibly contributing to their MPF rating being similar to MB. :beach:

  • TSR2 9.25° Ventus Velo TR Blue 58S
  • TSR2 15° GD Tour AD-VF 74S
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  • T100 3i & 4i MMT 95S
  • T100 5i-PW MMT 105S
  • SM9 F52/12, M58/8, PX 6.0 Wedge 120
  • SC/CA Monterey
  • DASH -ProV1x or AVX
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You either play golf for the best score possible or for the most enjoyment possible

 

If it's for score, you don't pick blades

 

Slow clap into stand-up applause.

G400 Max 9* Ventus Red 5X, SIM Ventus Red 6X 

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Feel wise, i can’t tell the difference between a forged CB or MB. A difference in flight yes, but not in feel.

 

Feel is subjective. If you get a chance tape up your 5i and a Ping 5i, see if you can feel the difference, and then look at where the ball left a mark on the face tape of each iron. People miss what they think to be the Ping sweet spot, and believe they hit a pure shot. You miss the sweet spot on a 716CB 5i face you should feel it.

My first set of irons were off the shelve Pings, but after six-eight months switched to Mizuno blades. I played MB's up to 2007. Check out what Crossfield says: http://bit.ly/2wFTF6C He momentarily brings up tour players that hit across the face, etc... and yet they are tour players. :)

 

716CB doesn't have a large deep cavity like other CB's; its small, shallow with a bulge behind the sweet spot, but not as thick as MB; which I suspect contributes to MPF rating. Crossfield and I agree, and why I play 716CB; they feel and look at address similar to my MB's. Though there's some forgiveness, it's comparatively minimal, again possibly contributing to their MPF rating being similar to MB. :beach:

 

You can feel and hear the miss with them. Personally I think hitting it high on the face is worse on a CB compared to an MB.

Taylormade Sim 2 Max - 10.5 Ventus Blue 6X
Titleist TSR3 - @15.75 Tensei 1K Black 75X
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Titleist 620 CB  - 4 iron - Dynamic Gold Tour Issue X100

Titleist 620 MB - 5-pw - Dynamic Gold Tour Issue X100

Vokey SM9 - 52.08, 56S  & 60M Dynamic Gold Tour Issue S400
Taylormade Spider Tour X - X3
Titleist - Pro V1

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You either play golf for the best score possible or for the most enjoyment possible

 

If it's for score, you don't pick blades

 

I play for best score and enjoyment and my MP4s give me the best of both worlds...shot more rounds in the 70s over the last 3 years than in all the time I’ve played CBs.

Callaway Big Bertha Alpha Fubuki ZT Stiff
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Cobra King CB/MB Flow 4-6, 7-PW C-Taper Stiff or Mizuno MP4 4-PW
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