Gains (Distance / Accuracy) from New Driver / Fitting

[dvq9654]

I'm sure this has been asked any number of ways over the years, but I'm strongly considering shelling out the dough to get fitted for a new driver (likely at Cool Clubs in Irvine). I've heard the price tag when purchasing from the fitter can be a bit staggering, so I wanted to ask what results members have seen from a new driver with fitting, both in terms of distance / accuracy. I can afford the fitting / club, but I also care about spending money, so want it to be worth it if I decide to do it. 

 

To better frame the question, despite playing all the time, I am not a frequent purchaser of golf gear and am playing an 8.5 degree 913 D2 I found in a used gear bin. It has a Mitsubishi Diamana +Plus White 72 shaft that I cut down ~2 inches to keep the ball in play. I am 99% sure the loft is too low and who knows about the shaft. That said, when I'm swinging well, I will hit this club anywhere from 280-290 with a relatively consistent shot shape. However, it is not particularly forgiving and doesn't feel great off the face. I don't feel like the club is hurting me, but I don't feel like it's helping, either. 

 

So, I guess the real question is, for those who have come from an older driver that wasn't fitted to them, what sort of results did you get from fitting to a more modern driver? 

 

Thanks in advance. 

[mtm31]

I had been playing an old TM Jetspeed 10.5 straight off the rack. Hit it ok, but even when it felt like I really nailed one it just didn't go anywhere. Typically 240-250 with a high ball flight and zero roll out. Just recently got fitted into a TSi3 10* with the smoke black rdx 6.5x 60g. Picked up 20-25 yards of carry and my ball flight flattened out producing some decent roll out. Dispersion tightened up as well as I was hitting the center of the club face much more consistently.  The shaft in my old driver was too light and had too much flex. 

 

If you're playing something on the older side that wasn't fit for you, there's likely some decent gains to be had.

[rsiehr]

I was playing a driver from 2007 that was not a great fit. I got an informal fitting (TM was at the driving range and I spent 30 minutes hitting different shafts with the M3, M4, and M3-445). I ended up not purchasing through them and grabbed a used M1-445 and separately purchased the shaft which fit me best, which was fortunately the ubiquitous tensei blue. Saved me a few hundred and the gains were substantial in trajectory and consistency.

Edited May 4, 2021 by rsiehr

[dvq9654]

Thank you, both. Sounds like it may be worth it. To be honest, if I could get up near the 300 yard mark on a regular basis it would be worth a lot (mainly ego wise), so I may be making an appointment soon. 

 

Welcome input from others. 

[phizzy30]

I've been fitted for driver for the past 12 years and let me tell you it will make a world of difference.  The modern driver heads are way more forgiving nowadays then those of yesteryear.  Higher ball speeds off mishits but dispersion can vary from golfer to golfer.  Shafts are also much improved as well since the OEMs now have more exotic and stronger material to reinforce certain sections of the shaft.  This allows for tighter tolerances and shafts which better fit today's golfers.  If you are fit for the right driver, you can expect to see at the very least, better accuracy.  If I can you tell you right off the bat after mashing a drive and saying "that one's over 300" on a regular basis, then that should tell you something about the modern driver. 

Edited May 4, 2021 by phizzy30

[scott406]

I am currently hitting a Cobra FLY Z 

I originally bought the FLY Z because my friend had one and I hit it so good I bought one

I figured that it has been over 5 years, a new driver could only help me

So I went for a driver fitting last month at GOLF TEC

I was fitted for my irons there, so I went back for a driver fitting 

 

After an hour hitting the SIM2, Epic, and G425. The fitter was honest enough to recommend that I turn down the loft on my current driver and not spend $500 on a new driver. 

(The PING G425 LST won out of the 3 I tested)

There was no difference in distance once I turned the loft on my FLY Z down from 10.5 to 9.5 between the PING G425 LST and my Cobra FLY Z.

I appreciate the honesty from them.

 

What I did get from it, is the exact driver specifications for my swing.

From club loft to shaft weight, and grip size

I was ignorant of all of this before, now I know what to look for if anything happens to my FLY Z or I feel like getting something new

 

If I had to do it over again, I would go to Club Champion, they have a larger selection of drivers to hit from than GOLF TEC

The fitters at GOLF TEC were extremely knowledgeable, but I wanted to hit the new Cobra Drivers and they did not have them.

 

I would say if you have never been fitted to get fit, even if what you hit is good for you, the knowledge you get about your own swing can only help you.

 

I am going to do a putter fitting soon ( at Club Champion this time)

 

[me05501]

I'm in a weird spot, because while I've yet to pay for a fitting I am now totally convinced that it makes a difference.

 

Last year I played a Rogue SZ driver with a Pro 62 Green shaft. I bought it sort of randomly because it was local and affordable, but it turned out to be a good fit for me as verified with on-course results and impact stickers. I had several other Callaway-tip shafts around to try against the Pro 62 Green but it just happened to give me the best results. 

 

This year I bought a new Callaway Epic Speed head from ebay. I totally assumed that I could just swap the shaft out of my very similar Rogue SZ and into the Epic Speed and find the same good fit. That didn't turn out to be the case. I got my impact stickers back out and auditioned all the Callaway shafts I own and found that a Project X Black 5.5 was a much better partner for the new head. The impact pattern cleaned right up once I put that shaft in. 

 

Of course, now I'm curious whether any of the other 1000 shaft options in the world would give me better results than the one I just happened to have. I also wonder whether I'd be better off with a 9* head turned up to 10* than with my 10.5* head, or whether the Max LS might have been a better fit. I don't even know for sure if my new setup is any better than my old one. All of these questions could have been answered during a good fitting!

 

So basically I've come to understand the value of fitting through the process of trial and error. 

 

 

Edited May 4, 2021 by me05501

[grochol17]

If you'd like to upgrade, but are also being cost conscious, I'd suggest that you start by going to a demo day or heading to a golf shop and just trying out some clubs.  That will give you an idea of what kind of improvement is out there for you just from changing lofts, shafts, or going to something newer, even if it is just a stock setup.  And, if you don't come up with anything that excites you, you can always go for a full club fitting somewhere.

 

As a side note, I haven't done a driver fitting at any of the specialty fitting stores, but based on threads on here and talking to friends that have been fit, I'm suspicious of the fact that so many people end up being told that they need a $400 aftermarket in their driver.  So, if you're worried about cost, you should tell the fitter up front.

[MelloYello]

If you gave me $500 to spend, I'd buy a decent head and an expensive shaft. Tour players swap heads and often go backwards a year or two in order to meet their preferences but not a single one plays without an elite shaft that fits their game. 

 

I don't think you're maximizing a driver's potential unless you pair it with a good quality shaft. What good is stability in the head if it is lost with a weak shaft that can't support it? Have you actually witnessed how much deflection occurs upon a driver toe-strike?! The very fact that shafts don't snap under that amount of torque is unbelievable. 

 

A few years ago I upgraded from a stock 913 D2 to a stock M3 which was relatively popular at the time. I think that was right before the M5/M6 were released. Although I considered the M3 a nice upgrade (and a good deal for $200 on Ebay), it was probably more mental than anything. It was as much a reason to practice as an actual contribution to why I improved my driving. But when I did put a high-dollar Tensei Pro in the M3 the driver took a huge leap forward. It was stronger and more powerful. The flight seemed a lot more stable and my mis-hits were way better.

 

My understanding is that the improvements in the shaft allow it to handle the outrageous torque of a mis-hit far better due to the stronger materials. Was it worth it? Absolutely! I will be sticking with this Tensei Pro until such time as I'm forced to switch. 

 

If a fitting gets you that kind of experience, I think it's great. That said, if you're willing to shop around you can also just fit yourself by buying and selling. The downside of a fitting is that you're taking a snapshot of how you're swinging on one particular day. Ideally, you wouldn't need more time but who knows? How many good driver swings can you really make in one session, you know?

Edited May 4, 2021 by MelloYello

[phizzy30]

2 hours ago, me05501 said:

I'm in a weird spot, because while I've yet to pay for a fitting I am now totally convinced that it makes a difference.

 

Last year I played a Rogue SZ driver with a Pro 62 Green shaft. I bought it sort of randomly because it was local and affordable, but it turned out to be a good fit for me as verified with on-course results and impact stickers. I had several other Callaway-tip shafts around to try against the Pro 62 Green but it just happened to give me the best results. 

 

This year I bought a new Callaway Epic Speed head from ebay. I totally assumed that I could just swap the shaft out of my very similar Rogue SZ and into the Epic Speed and find the same good fit. That didn't turn out to be the case. I got my impact stickers back out and auditioned all the Callaway shafts I own and found that a Project X Black 5.5 was a much better partner for the new head. The impact pattern cleaned right up once I put that shaft in. 

 

Of course, now I'm curious whether any of the other 1000 shaft options in the world would give me better results than the one I just happened to have. I also wonder whether I'd be better off with a 9* head turned up to 10* than with my 10.5* head, or whether the Max LS might have been a better fit. I don't even know for sure if my new setup is any better than my old one. All of these questions could have been answered during a good fitting!

 

So basically I've come to understand the value of fitting through the process of trial and error. 

 

 

The Epic Speed head is exceptional IMO when I tested it not too long ago.  You'll get along with it assuming you have it in the proper setting and pick out the right shaft.  So basically try and see if you fit into a low/low, mid/low or mid/mid shaft. 

[Exactice808]

23 hours ago, dvq9654 said:

I'm sure this has been asked any number of ways over the years, but I'm strongly considering shelling out the dough to get fitted for a new driver (likely at Cool Clubs in Irvine). I've heard the price tag when purchasing from the fitter can be a bit staggering, so I wanted to ask what results members have seen from a new driver with fitting, both in terms of distance / accuracy. I can afford the fitting / club, but I also care about spending money, so want it to be worth it if I decide to do it. 

 

To better frame the question, despite playing all the time, I am not a frequent purchaser of golf gear and am playing an 8.5 degree 913 D2 I found in a used gear bin. It has a Mitsubishi Diamana +Plus White 72 shaft that I cut down ~2 inches to keep the ball in play. I am 99% sure the loft is too low and who knows about the shaft. That said, when I'm swinging well, I will hit this club anywhere from 280-290 with a relatively consistent shot shape. However, it is not particularly forgiving and doesn't feel great off the face. I don't feel like the club is hurting me, but I don't feel like it's helping, either. 

 

So, I guess the real question is, for those who have come from an older driver that wasn't fitted to them, what sort of results did you get from fitting to a more modern driver? 

 

Thanks in advance. 

 

 

Hey OP Im going to be that guy 😃

 

8.5* 913D2 -  Diamana white + 72  Cut 2"...stock Titlest drivers are 45" so you are playing a 43" driver?  Did you do any Swing weight changes as well as a stock Driver is D2,  2" is like 4 swing weight points, thats like a C8 driver.

 

Spec wise I have questions.

 

 

OPTIMIZATION wise i Have questions/comments 

 

Hitting well 280-290

 

Here is 280,  165mph ballspeed 14* launch and 2200rps spin, pretty optimized numbers, you can play around with spin and drop it 200rpms ish or a degree of launch but this is respectable.

 

With 165mph ballspeeds as well say thats with a 1.48smash, that equals to about a 111mph Swing speed. 

 

My guess on optimization. 

 

My question to you is,  Do you have a swing speed in the 111mph range?  that can net you a max efficiency of 1.5 or 165-170mph ball speeds.   If so then optimizing your ball flight will be the next target and again the above numbers are realistic and potential.  

 

 

Now Back to your unique driver,

 

You are getting 111mph swing speeds with a 43" driver?  This means you COULD get up to 115mph with a full 45" if you could control it.  This means 115*1.5 = 172.5mph of max potential ball speeds.

 

Here is THAT potential,

 

294.6 Carry 302 total,

 

Thats if you could control a 45" driver at D2-D4 swing weight.  Coming from your old driver that is 43" and C8 swing weight?

 

 

Soooooooo....

 

The 913D2 head is super forgiving,  Add in the 8.5* head thats a pretty decent combo. The made for shafts during that period were not bad.   But I am really really concerned about the modified specs?

 

It might be hard to go to the new specs drivers that are 45.5" and D5 swing weights..... 

 

GL OP!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited May 4, 2021 by Exactice808

[phizzy30]

2 minutes ago, Exactice808 said:

 

 

Hey OP Im going to be that guy 😃

 

8.5* 913D2 -  Diamana white + 72  Cut 2"...stock Titlest drivers are 45" so you are playing a 43" driver?  Did you do any Swing weight changes as well as a stock Driver is D2,  2" is like 4 swing weight points, thats like a C8 driver.

 

Spec wise I have questions.

 

 

OPTIMIZATION wise i Have questions/comments 

 

Hitting well 280-290

 

Here is 280,  165mph ballspeed 14* launch and 2200rps spin, pretty optimized numbers, you can play around with spin and drop it 200rpms ish or a degree of launch but this is respectable.

 

With 165mph ballspeeds as well say thats with a 1.48smash, that equals to about a 111mph Swing speed. 

 

Im guess on optimization. 

 

My question to you is,  Do you have a swing speed in the 111mph range?  that can net you a max efficiency of 1.5 or 165-170mph ball speeds.   If so then optimizing your ball flight will be the next target and again the above numbers are realistic and potential.  

 

 

Now Back to your unique driver,

 

You are getting 111mph swing speeds with a 43" driver?  This means you COULD get up to 115mph with a full 45" if you could control it.  This means 115*1.5 = 172.5mph of max potential ball speeds.

 

Here is THAT potential,

 

294.6 Carry 302 total,

 

Thats if you could control a 45" driver at D2-D4 swing weight.  Coming from your old driver that is 43" and C8 swing weight?

 

 

Soooooooo....

 

The 913D2 head is super forgiving,  Add in the 8.5* head thats a pretty decent combo. The made for shafts during that period were not bad.   But I am really really concerned about the modified specs?

 

It might be hard to go to the new specs drivers that are 45.5" and D5 swing weights..... 

 

GL OP!

 

 

 

 

 

 

In theory those numbers would be great, but no one gets 0 side spin.  Also, it's a lot harder to get down to low 2000's rpm then people think.  Most golfers get too much back spin with driver. 

[Exactice808]

5 minutes ago, phizzy30 said:

In theory those numbers would be great, but no one gets 0 side spin.  Also, it's a lot harder to get down to low 2000's rpm then people think.  Most golfers get too much back spin with driver. 

Yes again.. Its targets its not exact I swear I mentioned potential a couple times?  I think TM did the computer calculation 17/1700 As the most optimal but most humans are no where near able.

 

 

As for most golfers yes, that is why I put potential Max efficiency  We should all strive for such right?

 

Finally I was eliciting a point.... a 43" driver cut with no mention of swing weight changes.... Have you swung a D5 and C8 driver? its noticeable.

 

BTW 43" cut driver is a 3wood length. OP is hitting 280-290 with a strong lofted 3 wood. just saying.

 

 

context I provided,  but context was also assumed on the OP's post.

Edited May 4, 2021 by Exactice808

[steventoo]

On 5/4/2021 at 7:51 AM, dvq9654 said:

So, I guess the real question is, for those who have come from an older driver that wasn't fitted to them, what sort of results did you get from fitting to a more modern driver? 

 

Thanks in advance. 

 

This isn't quite what you asked, but I was fitted for a Titleist TS2 in late 2019. I ended up with the 9.5 degree head and a 60/6.5 EvenFlow white shaft. On course performance was pretty good but I could miss wildly left, and left on my home course is very bad.

 

I was lucky enough to win a TSi driver in the club Christmas raffle and the same guy fitted me. I voiced my displeasure at the big left miss and ended up with a 9 degree TSi3 with 60/6.5 HZRDUS RDX Black. My TS2 combination was fantastic at the time I was fitted, but I've made a few changes and it was getting a bit too spinny and a bit too left.

 

This has tightened up dispersion significantly. I'm now at 27/31/42 left/centre/right versus 43/33/24. It's basically swapped them around, which is exactly what I was after. Although take them being missed fairways with a grain of salt - I'd say I hit close to 60% of my drives at my aim point (not always centre of the current fairway! and versus 40% landing where I aim with my old driver), but since my course is on the side of a mountain they tend to roll into the rough despite hitting centre on a few driver holes (1, 9, 14, 17, 18 are almost impossible to stick unless you hit a mid iron or a short drive, and the rough isn't punitive so I just go for it). On two holes, you aim for a parallel fairway if you're hitting driver, just to get a flat lie.

 

And according to Arccos, I've also gained 9 metres total distance: 275m now versus 266. I haven't hit one as long as I have with the TS2, but I've been very close.

 

That's the change from two Titleist fittings about 14 months apart. Same fitter, same fitting location, different me.

 

I can only imagine that the changes from prior, unfitted drivers would be only more drastic.

Edited May 5, 2021 by steventoo

[dvq9654]

5 hours ago, Exactice808 said:

 

 

Hey OP Im going to be that guy 😃

 

8.5* 913D2 -  Diamana white + 72  Cut 2"...stock Titlest drivers are 45" so you are playing a 43" driver?  Did you do any Swing weight changes as well as a stock Driver is D2,  2" is like 4 swing weight points, thats like a C8 driver.

 

Spec wise I have questions.

 

 

OPTIMIZATION wise i Have questions/comments 

 

Hitting well 280-290

 

Here is 280,  165mph ballspeed 14* launch and 2200rps spin, pretty optimized numbers, you can play around with spin and drop it 200rpms ish or a degree of launch but this is respectable.

 

With 165mph ballspeeds as well say thats with a 1.48smash, that equals to about a 111mph Swing speed. 

 

My guess on optimization. 

 

My question to you is,  Do you have a swing speed in the 111mph range?  that can net you a max efficiency of 1.5 or 165-170mph ball speeds.   If so then optimizing your ball flight will be the next target and again the above numbers are realistic and potential.  

 

 

Now Back to your unique driver,

 

You are getting 111mph swing speeds with a 43" driver?  This means you COULD get up to 115mph with a full 45" if you could control it.  This means 115*1.5 = 172.5mph of max potential ball speeds.

 

Here is THAT potential,

 

294.6 Carry 302 total,

 

Thats if you could control a 45" driver at D2-D4 swing weight.  Coming from your old driver that is 43" and C8 swing weight?

 

 

Soooooooo....

 

The 913D2 head is super forgiving,  Add in the 8.5* head thats a pretty decent combo. The made for shafts during that period were not bad.   But I am really really concerned about the modified specs?

 

It might be hard to go to the new specs drivers that are 45.5" and D5 swing weights..... 

 

GL OP!

 

 

 

 

 

 

To answer your question on length - yes, I cut it down 2 inches to around 43. I bought new swing weights to add weight and account for this, so I don't think the swing weight is much different than stock. I'm sure it's slightly different, but my goal was to keep as close to stock as possible. 

 

As for the swing speed - it's possible I swing in that range given a few charts I looked at, but I can't say for certain as I've never been on a launch monitor. It's also possible I'm overestimating my distance, but I use Arcoss, so feel pretty confident that I'm in the ball park. 

[grochol17]

10 hours ago, MelloYello said:

If you gave me $500 to spend, I'd buy a decent head and an expensive shaft. Tour players swap heads and often go backwards a year or two in order to meet their preferences but not a single one plays without an elite shaft that fits their game. 

 

Bubba Watson has been playing with a BiMatrix shaft in his driver for many years.  As best I can tell, the shaft was originally introduced in 2012 and it was discontinued because no one was buying it until he repopularized it.

 

John Rahm still uses the Aldila Tour Green in his driver.  That was stock in Callaway and Titleist woods for a while (2013 ish?) and is currently about $80 from Golfworks.

 

Neither of these shafts are expensive and I doubt anyone would call the shafts elite, at least not currently, but they seem to still work out pretty well.  The key is to find what fits your swing and spending a lot of money on a shaft doesn't guarantee that it will work better for you than anything else.

[RogerinNewZealand]

BiMatrix is great if it fits...super accurate and easy too pull with the steel tip!

[mgoblue83]

Your best hits won't be THAT much better (maybe 5-10 yards longer) but a good fitter will be able to increase the chances of hitting your best shots as well as keeping your misses much more playable. 

[Red4282]

On 5/3/2021 at 5:21 PM, dvq9654 said:

I'm sure this has been asked any number of ways over the years, but I'm strongly considering shelling out the dough to get fitted for a new driver (likely at Cool Clubs in Irvine). I've heard the price tag when purchasing from the fitter can be a bit staggering, so I wanted to ask what results members have seen from a new driver with fitting, both in terms of distance / accuracy. I can afford the fitting / club, but I also care about spending money, so want it to be worth it if I decide to do it. 

 

To better frame the question, despite playing all the time, I am not a frequent purchaser of golf gear and am playing an 8.5 degree 913 D2 I found in a used gear bin. It has a Mitsubishi Diamana +Plus White 72 shaft that I cut down ~2 inches to keep the ball in play. I am 99% sure the loft is too low and who knows about the shaft. That said, when I'm swinging well, I will hit this club anywhere from 280-290 with a relatively consistent shot shape. However, it is not particularly forgiving and doesn't feel great off the face. I don't feel like the club is hurting me, but I don't feel like it's helping, either. 

 

So, I guess the real question is, for those who have come from an older driver that wasn't fitted to them, what sort of results did you get from fitting to a more modern driver? 

 

Thanks in advance. 

You can see 0 gains from a fitting or 30 yards, it just depends on current fit. As far as fitters go and prices, id stay away from the chain stores if you can. I support the local little guys and usually will get the best price too.

[Exactice808]

17 hours ago, dvq9654 said:

To answer your question on length - yes, I cut it down 2 inches to around 43. I bought new swing weights to add weight and account for this, so I don't think the swing weight is much different than stock. I'm sure it's slightly different, but my goal was to keep as close to stock as possible. 

 

As for the swing speed - it's possible I swing in that range given a few charts I looked at, but I can't say for certain as I've never been on a launch monitor. It's also possible I'm overestimating my distance, but I use Arcoss, so feel pretty confident that I'm in the ball park. 

Got it! Glad you clarified as that was pretty important confirmation left out of your original post.

 

 

OK So with that being said.

 

43" driver is pretty short in this day and age.  Most drivers now are 45-46" (45.5" being the happy medium)

 

The issues you may find is.

 

1) I doubt anyone has stock shafts in 43" to be able to test fit you.  So likely you may be having to play full length shafts and choke up. (messes up the swig weight)

2) 2" could make a difference in swing speed.  Thus an increase in ballspeed.

3) I am one of those guys that tells people.  Find out what your average normal driver swing speed is (10 regular swings).  Once you have that, thats a starting point.   You can then use 2 smash factors and plug ins to trajectory optimizer, 1.45 on the low average  and 1.5 max efficiency.  this will give you 2 ball speed ranges.  From there plug it into the optimizer and you can figure out your preferred launch windows, by Launch angle, Apex and Spin for the most optimal distance expectations.

 

4) Then you take it to a sim and start hitting.  From there you can see your tendencies. if you need more loft or less loft, if you need a low spin head or a high spin head. If you have smash/contact issue where you are not getting the optimal ball speeds.

 

With the plethora of shafts, heads and weight adjustments you can eventually fit into a driver that matches your swing profile to give you a better chance at being efficient.

 

 

GL OP!, that was my useless $0.02

[dvq9654]

28 minutes ago, Exactice808 said:

Got it! Glad you clarified as that was pretty important confirmation left out of your original post.

 

 

OK So with that being said.

 

43" driver is pretty short in this day and age.  Most drivers now are 45-46" (45.5" being the happy medium)

 

The issues you may find is.

 

1) I doubt anyone has stock shafts in 43" to be able to test fit you.  So likely you may be having to play full length shafts and choke up. (messes up the swig weight)

2) 2" could make a difference in swing speed.  Thus an increase in ballspeed.

3) I am one of those guys that tells people.  Find out what your average normal driver swing speed is (10 regular swings).  Once you have that, thats a starting point.   You can then use 2 smash factors and plug ins to trajectory optimizer, 1.45 on the low average  and 1.5 max efficiency.  this will give you 2 ball speed ranges.  From there plug it into the optimizer and you can figure out your preferred launch windows, by Launch angle, Apex and Spin for the most optimal distance expectations.

 

4) Then you take it to a sim and start hitting.  From there you can see your tendencies. if you need more loft or less loft, if you need a low spin head or a high spin head. If you have smash/contact issue where you are not getting the optimal ball speeds.

 

With the plethora of shafts, heads and weight adjustments you can eventually fit into a driver that matches your swing profile to give you a better chance at being efficient.

 

 

GL OP!, that was my useless $0.02

Thanks for the details. I definitely don't expect and/or want a 43 inch shaft. Cutting down 2 inches was a crutch when my swing was going through some changes / issues, and I am expecting to get something closer to "stock". That said, I'll go into any fitting with an open mind and be flexible length-wise.  

[dvq9654]

Update on this - had my fitting today at Cool Clubs in Irvine. Got there early and hit some balls to warm up. Irons felt good, but was clear I didn’t have my A game with my driver. Was getting a little quick and hooky, which I was a little worried would negatively impact the fitting. 
 

Moved over to the fitting area, met Josiah, and started the fitting. We hit some drives with my current setup to get a baseline. Smash factor not great and definitely coming too far from inside (swing issue, not club issue), but hit a couple ok to at least have a good point of comparison. Was surprised to see my spin was pretty ideal despite a negative angle of attack and a too low launch angle. 
 

From there we tried the TSi2, the Sim2 Max, the Callaway Epic and a couple others. Started with a Tensai Raw shaft and generally was in the 10 degree realm for the head.
 

The TSi2 was the clear winner for the head. Hated the Callaway (sounded and felt awful), was ok with the Sim and the Cobra was probably second place, but the look and feel of the TSi2 was clearly superior for me. 
 

Once the head was clear, we tried a few other shafts but nothing could dethrone the Tensai Raw. With the TSi2 / Tensai combo, felt like I could send it down the right side, swing as hard as I wanted and it would draw back. Numbers were also by far the best. 1.5 smash factor, ~2000 spin and consistently in the 280-290 range. Others weren’t as far or as straight and it wasn’t even close on my best swings. 
 

It was expensive, but I haven’t been able to swing a driver with that level of confidence ever before, so am super excited to get it out on the course, especially on a day where I actually have my swing. Have a feeling I’m going to be spending more time in the fairway with a lot of wedges in hand.

 

A little scared about what this means for future fittings / my wallet, but I’ll worry about that another time...